[Illustration: Fig. 27.]
Commence this by drafting on the same principle as all drafts—by the
Proportionate System—by drawing line from O to F. From O go down to 11
three-fourths of an inch, and to 10 2 inches; from 11 to 10 curve the
top of the back, and measure from the top of the back, at 11, to C, the
length of waist 15 inches, to D 18 inches and to F the full length, 32
inches; at C, O and F draw right angle lines across. From C to the back
is 1½ inch; Draw a line from 11 to 1½, and one from 1½ to F; make the
width of back from 1½ to 2 inches wide. From O to B is one-fourth of the
breast-measure, 9 inches in a 36 inch breast, and A is midway between
these two points; draw lines over from A and B. From B to G is one-third
of breast and 1 inch, equal to 7 inches; from G to H is one-fourth of
breast, or 4½ inches. From Y to J is one-half of breast, 18 inches; draw
lines up from G, H and J, also down from J to N.
Where line A crosses line G, at M, draw another line from M to 10; raise
one-half inch above M to V, and draw a curved line from 10 to V.
Commence to curve the arm-hole from V to M and H, dropping one-fourth
inch below breast-line at 15.
In the centre, between M and G, begin to draw the back to 2 at waist, and
from there, with a slight curve, to Z at the bottom, so that the distance
from F to Z will be about equal to that from C to 2.
Go in from 2 to 3 one inch and shape the side-body from line under the
arm to 3 and S, where it touches the back; make the side-body any width
desired, say 2 inches to 14, the same from 3 to 4, curve the seam under
the arm and spring it out below 4 to 21, to give it ease over the hips;
also draw the curve for the piece under the arm from 14 to 4 and 20. From
S curve up to 21, which latter point is 1½ inch above the line S-18.
Point 20 is on the same level as 21, the line runs straight across to the
front seam which runs down from 5. The piece under the arm is 1½ inch
wide at top, from 14 to 15, and 2 inches from 4 to 5; this should be
shaped somewhat like draft.
From L to I is one-sixth of the breast, 3 inches, and the same down from
L to T. Curve the neck; from I to A draw a straight line, and place the
length of shoulder from 10 to V on the front from I to U; shape the front
of shoulder by dropping below line at U one-half inch, and raise slightly
above it at 12.
Finish drawing the arm-hole from U to H, going out beyond the line H at
13 about one half inch.
Draw from T, at the front, outside of J one-half inch, thence to K at
waist, going inside of front line one-fourth inch at K and N to point P
at bottom.
In the middle, between J and H, locate a point for the dart, and in the
centre, between this and H, fix another point for the back dart. From K
to 1½, across the waist, measure the distance, taking out 1 inch between
2 and 3, which will be 16 inches; deduct the size of waist, 12 inches,
from 16 inches and the remainder, 4 inches, is to be taken out in darts;
therefore, put in two darts of 2 inches each. From K to 9 is 2 inches;
from 9 to 8 is one dart; from 8 to 7, between the darts, is three-fourths
inch; from 7 to 6 is another dart of 2 inches. About 2½ inches below the
waist-line begin to draw the darts past 9, 8, 7 and 6, nearly straight
down from waist-line. From 21 curve lower seam to 19, 18 and N; at N it
is one-half inch below straight line.
Make the lapel straight on its inside edge, and 2 inches at waist, and 3
inches at centre of breast, in width, and shape like Figure.
To draw the skirt lay a straight-edge from 3 to S against the side-body,
and draw a line to R, then curve it about one-half inch more over the
hips. Regulate the length by the back. From S draw the upper edge of the
skirt to within one-half inch of side-body at 21, thence to N; from N
forward add the width of lapel and draw straight down; also put in two
cuts on the hip, of one-half inch each, and the skirt will be right
to fit the body. Should it, on measuring, be a little too wide, take
the extra width off in front; whatever overlaps on the side-body will
equalize the loss of the darts.
A flap can be put on over the hips. An ordinary coat-collar will suit
this jacket.