[Illustration: Fig. 24.]
First draw the straight line like O-B. Lay the fore-part of the pattern
against this line, touching at the centre of the breast, B, and trace
along it at the front from 1 to the bottom at 3. Next move the pattern
back one-half inch to B. Trace along the arm-hole without any allowances,
but on the top of shoulder add one-fourth inch, also a trifle at neck. On
the side-seam, from 15 to 20, add one-fourth inch; then lay the finished
side-body on top of the front, touching point 15, and at the waist at 20,
and finish the balance from 20 to 22 by the side-body. Now from the top
of the shoulder-point, by the bottom, point 22, sweep the bottom to the
front at B. From 3 to B draw a straight line, and for a double-breasted
jacket, as the Figure given, add on to the front, at B, 3 inches, at
waist 2½ inches, at the bottom 3 inches, and shape it as shown. At the
bottom, after it has been curved by a sweep, straighten it one-half inch
above the sweep in the centre. Instead of two darts at the back only one
is used, as shown, and this one can be increased one-half inch, and a cut
is also taken out under the arm from 16 to 17.
It is evident that two darts can be put in as well as one, or when the
same is intended for plush goods the darts can be left out altogether
without altering the balance in any manner.
To produce a collar for this jacket draw a line from C, where it is
intended to roll, to E, which is one-half inch from curved line of neck;
then drop down from this line at 13 to 11 one inch and curve the break,
as shown from 11 to E. From 11 to 12 is ¾ inch; curve this also to
neckline at F, and thence along the neck to the front. From 11 to 13 make
the part of collar which is to turn over 1½ to 2 inches wide, and shape
to the front at G.
Sleeves for this jacket are cut similar to those already explained.