The measures we shall use are the following: Breast, 36; waist, 24;
length of natural waist, 15; height under arm, 7; front of arm, 10½;
width of back, 6½; front length, 18½.
In drafting this we drop proportion altogether and use only the measures
as stated above to get all points on the draft. All the lines and curves
will come out in similar manner to the previous draft. Fig. 4 starts by
drawing a line O-F and O-N; go down from O three-fourths of an inch, and
in from O, to A, two inches, and curve from ¾ to A.
From ¾ down, measure the length of back 15 inches to F, and at F draw a
line over to the front and go in 1½ inches and mark a point.
From ¾ to this last point draw a straight line for the centre of the back.
Up from F measure the height under arm 7 inches to E, and from E draw a
line to the front.
From Z to D is one-half of the breast-measure, and draw the front line
up and down. Also measure from Z to S, the actual width of the back, and
from Z to H, the front of the arm, 10½ inches, or the blade measure which
is taken from the front of the arm over the blade to the centre of the
back. At S and H draw lines up.
In the middle between O and E mark point B, and in the middle between B
and E point C, and draw the lines across as shown. (See Fig. 4.)
From where the lines cross at J, draw one across to top of back at A, and
curve from A to G which point is one-half inch above J.
Beginning at G curve arm-hole past J, a trifle inside of line between J
and R, and from thence to V. This last is midway between S and H.
Make the bottom of the back 1½ inches wide. This is only a medium, as
it can be made 1 inch or 2 inches, which only places the seam either
further back or more to the front. Then from R draw a straight line to 1½
and slightly curve a line drawn to 19 and to 2. Between 19 and 2 curve
more towards centre of back. A few trials will enable you to make a nice
shaped curve.
[Illustration: Fig. 4.]
From 2 on back to side body at 1 is 1 inch, and curve from 19 to 1.
From V, straight down, draw a line to 4 and curve a trifle on either side
of it, also separate side-body from X to 3. Point X is midway between
line R and V and the distance between 3 and 4 is about ½ inch more than X
to V.
Take ⅙ of the breast, equal to 3 inches, and place it from point N to P
and use point N as a pivot and sweep from P to 15.
At a point on waist-line directly under H, measure up past P, shoulder
point, the front length, which is in our measure 18½, deducting the
width of top of back, and wherever it reaches to is point P. This may,
sometimes, when the person is erect, reach above the line; and again, on
hollow or stooping shoulders, be below it. Wherever it reaches is the
shoulder point, and when it goes above we sweep at a point above N even
with shoulder for neck, and of course, should it be below the line, at a
point below N, so that the neck will keep its shape to harmonize with the
height of shoulder point.
[Illustration]
Wherever point P is located by measure, above or below, or on the line,
start to draw the line to B, on back, for height of shoulder, and place
the width of back shoulder from A to G on this line from P to get point
17. Then from 17 curve above it about one-quarter inch to P, and also
draw the arm-hole, going inside of line H, but never over one-half inch,
to V, as shown on the diagram. Drop a trifle from 17 to 20.
At the front, draw the line starting inside of straight line of 15
one-quarter of an inch, gradually curving out till at D we have one-half
inch curve, and thence going in again to the line at waist, point U. From
U go down 1¼ inch to T, and draw a line across to 12.
Measure the distance F to U, leaving out the opening between 1 and 2,
which in this case will be 16 inches. Now, one-half of waist-measure, 12
inches, from 16 leaves 4 inches, which must be taken out in darts.
To produce the darts in the right place we proceed as follows: first
locate a point in the middle between H and D which gives 12, and in the
centre between H and 12, another which is marked 13.
From U to 5 place 2 inches, as we never wish to have the first dart any
nearer to the front, then from 5 to 6 is one dart of 2 inches or one-half
of the amount to be taken out. Between the darts leave three-fourths
inch, and then place another dart of 2 inches from 7 to 8. In the centre
of each dart mark a point and draw lines from these to 12 and 13.
One-third of the height under arm from 13 locates 23 while 22 is one-half
inch lower, and starting from each of the last points curve the darts as
shown.
It will be seen that they are drawn very pointed at top, and that below
the waist-line they run straight down without any spring being given.
From 1 curve to 3 and 4; but between 3 and 4 it runs a trifle above
waist-line, and then from 4 to 12 on lower line. Point 10 is a little
lower than the line, while it rests on line, from 9 to T.
This finishes the draft by measure, and we have only to add that this, as
well as the preceding, requires the adding of seams according to material
used.