Commence by drawing line O on the edge of a sheet of paper from point O
to F, and one line C at right angles with it from O to N.
From O go down three-fourths of an inch for the actual top of back.
From O to C is one-quarter of the breast-measure, which for a 36 bust
would be 9 inches, and from C over to 16 draw line D (see Fig. 4) at
right angles with the back line.
Next, measure from ¾, or the top of back down to F, the length of back,
from socket bone to the natural waist and from F draw a line over to the
front at T.
From F go in 1½ inch, and draw a line for the centre of the back, from ¾
at top to 1½ at the bottom.
From O over on the top line, place 2 inches to the point marked ⅛.
This will be about right for all medium sizes. For large sizes, over
40 breast, make it 2¼ inches to 2½ inches and for sizes under 30
breast-measure let it be 1½ to 1¾ inches. It will make no difference in
the fit what this width may be, as it only affects the appearance of the
shoulder-seam. A little practice, however, will enable any one to apply
the right width.
In the middle, between O and E (see Fig. 4), fix point B, and in the
centre, between B and E, locate point C, and draw lines B and G from both
points.
Starting at E, measure over to S one-third of the breast, which is 6
inches for a 36; and add to it one inch, which fixes S; and from S to H
place one-fourth, or 4½ inches. All fractions and divisions that we use
in explanation are based on the breast-measure, and are found already
divided on the square.
At S and H draw lines up, as shown. Where lines S-J and B-J cross, begin
by drawing another to the top, at A.
Now, curve from ¾ to A, and from A to G, which last point is one-half
inch above J. Commencing at G curve past J to R, going a trifle inside of
straight line, then from R past X to V.
From R draw a straight line to 1½, and curve the back seam from R by
going only a little inside of straight line at 19, thence to 2. Point 2
is 1½ inches from centre 1½. From 2 to 1 place 1 inch, then curve the
side-body from 19 to 1.
Next, measure from the centre of the back at Z, on the line under
the arm, to get the point D in front. This should be one-half of the
breast-measure (18). Point D being placed, draw a line from there up and
down to N and to U, at right angles with the line under the arm.
[Illustration: Fig. 3.]
To form the neck we take one-sixth of the breast and place it from N to
P, and, using N as a pivot, sweep from P to 15. One-quarter inch inside
of front line at 15 we start to draw the curved front line to the bottom,
by going outside of D one-half inch and coming back to straight line
again, near U.
One and a half inches below the waist-line, at U, draw a line from T over
to 12.
From P to B draw a straight line; then take the length of the back
shoulder, from A to G, and place the same from P towards 17, and where
this reaches is point 17.
Having located 17, curve from it above the line of shoulder at 21, and
drop one-fourth inch below it at 20; and, also, from 20 draw the arm-hole
past 18 to X; but do not quite touch A, and drop below V one-fourth inch.
Point V is midway between S and H; from it draw a straight line to 4;
curve a little on both sides of it; that is, starting from V, keep
following the line for two inches, then gradually separate towards
the waist-line, so that you will have two curves, which will be apart
one-fourth inch near waist, but coming together again at 4.
About one-half inch more forward than the middle, between 19 and V, fix
point X; and in the centre, between 1 and 4, locate 3; then draw a line
from X to 3 and curve it.
In the middle, between H and D, mark point 12, and in the middle, between
12 and H, point 13.
Measure the distance from front, at U, to 1, and from 2 to 1½; on this
draft it will be 16 inches. Now deduct from this the size of waist, 12
inches, and the remainder, 4 inches, must be taken out in darts. We put
them in as follows: From U to 5 place a distance of 2 inches for all
average medium sizes; from 5 to 6 is one dart of 2 inches, and between
the darts, from 6 to 7, is three-fourths inch, then from 7 to 8 is
another dart of 2 inches.
Take two-thirds of the distance under the arm and place it upwards from 7
towards 13 for the height of the back dart, and let the front one start
one-half inch lower; then draw them, as shown, from 22 and 23 to 9, 10,
11 and 12.
Now, at one-fourth inch below 1, curve the lower line past 3, and a
trifle above it, to 12, drop point 12 a little below the line; also drop
10 a little below it; from 9 to T remain on the line straight across.
The draft is now finished by proportion, and we can assure our readers
that, with the use of the sizes on our Proportionate Table, it is
applicable to all forms, the manner of drafting remaining the same in all
cases.
All our figures, unless otherwise stated, are drafted without seams. We
do this because it is far easier to add the amount necessary on different
material than to draft it on the pattern.