In using this by measure, draft in the same way as explained in another
article, the difference being only that the measure will be larger. We
will explain this by the Proportionate Method: Breast, 44 inches; waist,
31½; drafting size, 21⅝, or equal to a breast-measure of 43¼ inches.
It should be understood that this last size of breast is used only for
the height, while the original breast-measure must always be used for the
width.
First draw line O-C, mark point O, and draw a line at right angles with
O-C, to A; from O go down three-fourths inch to point 7, the top of back.
From 7 to C is the length of the waist, 15½ or 16 inches.
[Illustration: Fig. 5.]
At the waist go in 1½ inch from C; draw a straight line from 7 to 1½ for
the centre of the back.
From O go down to point B, one-quarter of the drafting size, which is, in
this case, 10⅝ inches; this is one-quarter of 43⅛, as on large sizes the
length is reduced in the shoulders to the drafting size. Now draw a line
from B to H, and one from C to J.
Point D is in the centre between O and B; then from D draw a line over to
K.
From B to G is one-third and 1 inch, equal to 8⅛ inches, and from G draw
a line up.
From G to E is one-fourth, equal to 5¼ inches; here also draw a line up.
From N, on the back line, to H, place one-half of the full
breast-measure, which is 22 inches; and at this point draw a line up and
down, thus making the front line A-J.
From O to 6 is one-eighth of breast, 2⅝ inches. From 7 curve to 6, for
the top of back, at neck; from K to 6 draw a line, and at 6 begin to
curve the line for shoulder, raising it one-half inch above K to 8. Also
commence to curve the arm-hole from 8, going inside of line one-eighth
inch at 16, and thence past 15 and 4 to E.
Midway between K and G is point 16. Start to make the seam for the back
from 16, past 17 to 1; the last point is 1½ inch from 1½. When it is
desired to produce a narrow shoulder, raise the seam above 8 one-half
inch, and back from 8 fully 1 inch, and draw the arm-hole from 18 to 16.
To draw the first side-body, place 1 inch from 1 to 2, and curve the line
from 16 to 17; thence separate and curve nicely to 2.
In the centre, between G and E, mark point 4, and draw a line straight
down, which will be 5; and, in the middle, between 17 and 4, fix point
15. Also take the distance from 2 to 5, and fix a point in the centre,
which will be 3, and then draw a line from 15 to 3; curve a little on
each side of these two lines, as shown.
In producing the front, be very careful to follow the instructions as
here given: From A to F is one-sixth of the breast-measure, 3½ inches;
and the same amount from A to I; now, sweep from F to I, using A as
pivot; from F to D draw a straight line, and place the same distance,
as on the back shoulder from 6 to 8, on to F to 9, and then curve it a
little above the line at 20; finish the arm-hole by curving it from 19
downwards past E. It will be seen that it runs over and in front of line
E, and one-fourth inch below breast-line at 4.
For the front edge, commence one-fourth inch inside of straight line at
I, and go gradually out to one-half inch at H, and in again until it
touches line at J and 14.
Now to manage to fix the darts: Measure from 1½ to 1-2, to 3, and 3 to J;
this will give 19½ inches. But as the measure is only 15¾, one-half of
31½, we take out the difference between these two widths in darts. This
amounts to 2¾ inches, which we take out in two darts of 1⅞ inch each.
First find the centre between H and E, which fixes point R; and the
centre, also, between R and E, which gives point P. This first dart
commences 2¼ inches from J. Then put in one dart of 1⅞; inch. Between the
darts, let the space be 1 inch, and then place the width of the other
dart, which is also 1⅞ inch, and fix a centre in each dart.
From R draw a line through the centre of the first dart, and from P one
through the centre of the second; then curve the lines of both darts like
those on the diagram. The darts are started two-thirds of the distance up
under the arm, but the front one is made one-half inch shorter.
From J go down 1½ inch and draw a line across to 10.
The bottom of the waist is straight from 14 to 13. At 12 begin one-fourth
inch below and draw to the line at 11. From 10, also one-fourth inch
below, draw a curved line to 5, raising to 3, and back to 2.
When the back has been narrowed on the shoulders it becomes necessary,
also, to conform the front to it; as we have raised above 8 to 18
one-half inch, therefore, we must reduce the shoulder on the front the
same amount we added, and it will bring it to 19. Then the waist is
finished. Let it again be stated that seams must be added, except in the
neck and arm-hole.