built Town. Houses of good Reception, and Entertainment, are very scarce
all over _Spain_; but that, where I then lay, might have pass'd for good
in any other Country. Yet it gave me a Notion quite different to what I
found: for I imagined it to proceed from my near Approach to the
Capital. But instead of that, contrary to all other Countries, the
nearer I came to _Madrid_, the Houses of Entertainment grew worse and
worse; not in their Rates do I mean (for that with Reason enough might
have been expected) but even in their Provision, and Places and way of
Reception, I could not however forbear smiling at the Reason given by my
Muletier, that it proceeded from a piece of Court Policy, in Order to
oblige all Travellers to hasten to _Madrid_.
Two small Leagues from _Ocanna_ we arrived at _Aranjuez_, a Seat of
Pleasure, which the Kings of _Spain_ commonly select for their place of
Residence during the Months of _April and May_. It is distant from
_Madrid_ about seven Leagues; and the Country round is the pleasantest
in all _Spain, Valencia_ excepted. The House it self makes but a very
indifferent Appearance; I have seen many a better in _England_, with an
Owner to it of no more than five hundred Pounds _per Annum_; yet the
Gardens are large and fine; or as the _Spaniards_ say, the finest in all
_Spain_, which with them is all the World. They tell you at the same
Time, that those of _Versailles_, in their most beautiful Parts, took
their Model from these. I never saw those at _Versailles_: But in my
Opinion, the Walks at _Aranjuez_, tho' noble in their length, lose much
of their Beauty by their Narrowness.
The Water-works here are a great Curiosity; to which the River _Tagus_
running along close by, does mightily contribute. That River is let into
the Gardens by a vast number of little Canals, which with their
pleasing _Mæanders_ divert the Eye with inexpressible Delight. These
pretty Wanderers by Pipes properly plac'd in them, afford Varieties
scarce to be believ'd or imagin'd; and which would be grateful in any
Climate; but much more, where the Air, as it does here, wants in the
Summer Months perpetual cooling.
To see a spreading Tree, as growing in its natural Soil, distinguish'd
from its pineing Neighbourhood by a gentle refreshing Shower, which
appears softly distilling from every Branch and Leaf thereof, while
Nature all around is smiling, without one liquid sign of Sorrow, to me
appear'd surprizingly pleasing. And the more when I observ'd that its
Neighbours receiv'd not any the least Benefit of that plentiful
Effusion; And yet a very few Trees distant, you should find a dozen
together under the same healthful _Sudor_. Where art imitates Nature
well, Philosophers hold it a Perfection: Then what must she exact of us,
where we find her transcendent in the Perfections of Nature?
The watry Arch is nothing less surprizing; where Art contending with
Nature, acts against the Laws of Nature, and yet is beautiful. To see a
Liquid Stream vaulting it self from the space of threescore Yards into a
perfect Semi-Orb, will be granted by the Curious to be rare and strange:
But sure to walk beneath that Arch, and see the Waters flowing over your
Head, without your receiving the minutest Drop, is stranger, if not
strange enough to stagger all Belief.
The Story of _Actæon_, pictur'd in Water Colours, if I may so express my
self, tho' pretty, seem'd to me, but trifling to the other. Those seem'd
to be like Nature miraculously displayed; this only Fable in Grotesque.
The Figures indeed were not only fine, but extraordinary; yet their
various Shapes were not at all so entertaining to the Mind, however
refreshing they might be found to the Body.
I took notice before of the straitness of their Walks: But tho' to me it
might seem a Diminution of their Beauty: I am apt to believe to the
_Spaniard_, for and by whom they were laid out, it may seem otherwise.
They, of both Sexes, give themselves so intolerably up to Amouring, that
on that Account the Closeness of the Walks may be look'd upon as an
Advantage rather than a Defect. The grand Avenue to the House is much
more stately, and compos'd as they are, of Rows of Trees, somewhat
larger than our largest Limes, whose Leaves are all of a perfect Pea
bloom Colour, together with their Grandeur, they strike the Eye with a
pleasing Beauty. At the Entrance of the Grand Court we see the Statue of
_Philip_ the Second; to intimate to the Spectators, I suppose, that he
was the Founder.
Among other Parks about _Aranjuez_ there is one intirely preserved for
Dromedaries; an useful Creature for Fatigue, Burden, and Dispatch; but
the nearest of kin to Deformity of any I ever saw. There are several
other enclosures for several sorts of strange and wild Beasts, which are
sometimes baited in a very large Pond, that was shown me about half a
League from hence. This is no ordinary Diversion: but when the Court is
disposed that way, the Beast, or Beasts, whether Bear, Lyon, or Tyger,
are convey'd into a House prepar'd for that purpose; whence he can no
other way issue than by a Door over the Water, through, or over, which
forcing or flinging himself, he gradually finds himself descend into the
very depth of the Pond by a wooden Declivity. The Dogs stand ready on
the Banks, and so soon as ever they spye their Enemy, rush all at once
into the Water, and engage him. A Diversion less to be complain'd of
than their _Tauridores_; because attended with less Cruelty to the
Beast, as well as Danger to the Spectators.
When we arrived at _Madrid_, a Town much spoken of by Natives, as well
as Strangers, tho' I had seen it before, I could hardly restrain my self
from being surprized to find it only environ'd with Mud Walls. It may
very easily be imagin'd, they were never intended for Defence, and yet
it was a long time before I could find any other use, or rather any use
at all in 'em. And yet I was at last convinc'd of my Error by a sensible
Increase of Expence. Without the Gates, to half a League without the
Town, you have Wine for two Pence the Quart; but within the Place, you
drink it little cheaper than you may in _London_. The Mud Walls
therefore well enough answer their Intent of forcing People to reside
there, under pretence of Security; but in reality to be tax'd, for other
Things are taxable, as well as Wine, tho' not in like Proportion.
All Embassadors have a Claim or Privilege, of bringing in what Wine
they please Tax-free; and the King, to wave it, will at any Time
purchase that Exemption of Duty at the price of five hundred Pistoles
_per Annum_. The Convents and Nunneries are allowed a like Licence of
free Importation; and it is one of the first Advantages they can boast
of; for, under that Licence having a liberty of setting up a Tavern near
them, they make a prodigious Advantage of it. The Wine drank and sold in
this Place, is for the most part a sort of white Wine.
But if the Mud Walls gave me at first but a faint Idea of the Place; I
was pleasingly disappointed, as soon as I enter'd the Gates. The Town
then show'd itself well built, and of Brick, and the Streets wide, long,
and spacious. Those of _Atocha_, and _Alcala_, are as fine as any I ever
saw; yet is it situated but very indifferently: For tho' they have what
they call a River, to which they give the very fair Name of _la
Mansuera_, and over which they have built a curious, long, and large
Stone Bridge; yet is the Course of it, in Summer time especially, mostly
dry. This gave occasion to that piece of Railery of a Foreign
Embassador, _That the King would have don wisely to have bought a River,
before he built the Bridge_. Nevertheless, that little Stream of a River
which they boast of, they improve as much as possible; since down the
Sides, as far as you can see, there are Coops, or little Places hooped
in, for People to wash their Linen (for they very rarely wash in their
own Houses) nor is it really an unpleasing Sight, to view the regular
Rows of them at that cleanly Operation.
The King has here two Palaces; one within the Town, the other near
adjoining. That in the Town is built of Stone, the other which is called
_Bueno Retiro_, is all of Brick. From the Town to this last, in Summer
time, there is a large covering of Canvas, propt up with tall Poles;
under which People walk to avoid the scorching heats of the Sun.
As I was passing by the Chapel of the _Carmelites_, I saw several blind
Men, some led, some groping the Way with their Sticks, going into the
Chapel. I had the curiosity to know the Reason; I no sooner enter'd the
Door, but was surprized to see such a number of those unfortunate
People, all kneeling before the Altar, some kissing the Ground, others
holding up their Heads, crying out _Misericordia_. I was informed 'twas
Saint _Lucy's_ Day, the Patroness of the Blind; therefore all who were
able, came upon that Day to pay their Devotion: So I left them, and
directed my Course towards the King's Palace.
When I came to the outward Court, I met with a _Spanish_ Gentleman of my
Acquaintance, and we went into the _Piazza's_; whilst we were talking
there, I saw several Gentlemen passing by having Badges on their
Breasts; some white, some red, and others green: My Friend informed me
that there were five Orders of Knighthood in _Spain_. That of the Golden
Fleece was only given to great Princes, but the other four to private
Gentlemen, _viz_. That of _Saint Jago, Alacantara, Saint Salvador de
Montreal_, and _Monteza_.
He likewise told me, that there were above ninety Places of Grandees,
but never filled up; who have the Privilege of being cover'd in the
Presence of the King, and are distinguished into three Ranks. The first
is of those who cover themselves before they speak to the King. The
second are those who put on their Hats after they have begun to speak.
The third are those who only put on their Hats, having spoke to him. The
Ladies of the Grandees have also great Respect show'd them. The Queen
rises up when they enter the Chamber, and offers them Cushions.
No married Man except the King lies in the Palace, for all the Women who
live there are Widows, or Maids of Honour to the Queen. I saw the Prince
of _Asturia's_ Dinner carried through the Court up to him, being guarded
by four Gentlemen of the Guards, one before, another behind, and one on
each Side, with their Carbines shoulder'd; the Queen's came next, and
the King's the last, guarded as before, for they always dine separately.
I observed that the Gentlemen of the Guards, though not on Duty, yet
they are obliged to wear their Carbine Belts.
_SAINT Isodore_, who from a poor labouring Man, by his Sanctity of Life
arrived to the Title of _Saint_, is the Patron of _Madrid_, and has a
Church dedicated to him, which is richly adorned within. The Sovereign
Court of the Inquisition is held at _Madrid_, the President whereof is
called the Inquisitor General. They judge without allowing any Appeal
for four Sorts of Crimes, _viz_. Heresy, Polygamy, Sodomy and
Witchcraft, and when any are convicted, 'tis called the Act of Faith.
Most People believe that the King's greatest Revenue consists in the
Gold and Silver brought from the West Indies (which is a mistake) for
most Part of that Wealth belongs to Merchants and others, that pay the
Workmen at the Golden Mines of _Potosi_, and the Silver Mines at
_Mexico_; yet the King, as I have been informed, receives about a
Million and a half of Gold.
The _Spaniards_ have a Saying, that the finest Garden of Fruit in
_Spain_ is in the middle of _Madrid_, which is the _Plaza_ or Market
Place, and truly the Stalls there are set forth with such variety of
delicious fruit, that I must confess I never saw any Place comparable to
it; and which adds to my Admiration, there are no Gardens or Orchards of
Fruit within some Leagues.
They seldom eat Hares in _Spain_ but whilst the Grapes are growing, and
then they are so exceeding fat, they are knocked down with Sticks. Their
Rabits are not so good as ours in _England_; they have great plenty of
Patridges, which are larger and finer feather'd than ours. They have but
little Beef in _Spain_, because there is no Grass, but they have plenty
of Mutton, and exceeding good, because their Sheep feed only upon wild
Potherbs; their Pork is delicious, their Hogs feeding only upon
Chestnuts and Acorns.
_MADRID_ and _Valladolid_, though Great, yet are only accounted
Villages: In the latter _Philip_ the Second, by the persuasion of
_Parsons_ an _English_ Jesuit, erected an _English_ Seminary; and
_Philip_ the Fourth built a most noble Palace, with extraordinary fine
Gardens. They say that _Christopher Columbus_, who first discover'd the
West Indies, dyed there, tho' I have heard he lies buried, and has a
Monument at _Sevil_.
The Palace in the Town stands upon eleven Arches, under every one of
which there are Shops, which degrade it to a meer Exchange.
Nevertheless, the Stairs by which you ascend up to the Guard Room (which
is very spacious too) are stately, large, and curious. So soon as you
have pass'd the Guard Room, you enter into a long and noble Gallery, the
right Hand whereof leads to the King's Apartment, the left to the
Queen's. Entring into the King's Apartment you soon arrive at a large
Room, where he keeps his _Levee_; on one side whereof (for it takes up
the whole Side) is painted the fatal Battle of _Almanza_. I confess the
View somewhat affected me, tho' so long after; and brought to Mind many
old Passages. However, the Reflection concluded thus in favour of the
_Spaniard_, that we ought to excuse their Vanity in so exposing under a
_French_ General, a Victory, which was the only material one the
_Spaniards_ could ever boast of over an _English_ Army.
In this State Room, when the King first appears, every Person present,
receives him with a profound Homage: After which turning from the
Company to a large Velvet Chair, by which stands the Father Confessor,
he kneels down, and remains some Time at his Devotion; which being over,
he rising crosses himself, and his Father Confessor having with the
motion of his Hand intimated his Benediction, he then gives Audience to
all that attend for that purpose. He receives every Body with a seeming
Complaisance; and with an Air more resembling the French than the
_Spanish_ Ceremony. Petitions to the King, as with us, are delivered
into the Hands of the Secretary of State: Yet in one Particular they
are, in my Opinion, worthy the Imitation of other Courts; the Petitioner
is directly told, what Day he must come for an Answer to the Office; at
which Time he is sure, without any further fruitless Attendance, not to
fail of it. The Audience being over, the King returns through the
Gallery to his own Apartment.
I cannot here omit an accidental Conversation, that pass'd between
General _Mahoni_ and my self in this Place. After some talk of the
Bravery of the _English_ Nation, he made mention of General _Stanhope_,
with a very peculiar _Emphasis_.
"But," says he, "I never was so put to the Nonplus in all my Days, as
that General once put me in. I was on the road from _Paris to Madrid_,
and having notice, that that General was going just the Reverse, and
that in all likelyhood we should meet the next day: Before my setting
out in the Morning, I took care to order my gayest Regimental Apparel,
resolving to make the best Appearance I could to receive so great a Man.
I had not travell'd above four Hours before I saw two Gentlemen, who
appearing to be _English_, it induc'd me to imagine they were
Forerunners, and some of his Retinue. But how abash'd and confounded was
I? when putting the Question to one of 'em, he made answer, _Sir, I am
the Person_. Never did Moderation put Vanity more out of Countenance:
Tho' to say Truth, I cou'd not but think his Dress as much too plain
for General _Stanhope_, as I at that juncture thought my own too gay for
_Mahoni_. But," added he, "that great Man had too many inward great
Endowments to stand in need of any outside Decoration."
Of all Diversions the King takes most delight in that of Shooting, which
he performs with great Exactness and Dexterity. I have seen him divert
himself at Swallow shooting (by all, I think allow'd to be the most
difficult) and exceeding all I ever saw. The last time I had the Honour
to see him, was on his Return from that Exercise. He had been abroad
with the Duke of _Medina Sidonia_, and alighted out of his Coach at a
back Door of the Palace, with three or four Birds in his Hand, which
according to his usual Custom, he carried up to the Queen with his own
Hands.
There are two Play-houses in _Madrid_, at both which they act every Day;
but their Actors, and their Music, are almost too indifferent to be
mentioned. The Theatre at the _Bueno Retiro_ is much the best; but as
much inferior to ours at _London_, as those at _Madrid_ are to that. I
was at one Play, when both King and Queen were present. There was a
splendid Audience, and a great Concourse of Ladies; but the latter, as
is the Custom there, having Lattices before them, the Appearance lost
most of its Lustre. One very remarkable Thing happen'd, while I was
there; the _Ave-Bell_ rung in the Middle of an Act, when down on their
Knees fell every Body, even the Players on the Stage, in the Middle of
their Harangue. They remained for some Time at their Devotion; then up
they rose, and returned to the Business they were before engag'd in,
beginning where they left off.
The Ladies of Quality make their Visits in grand State and Decorum. The
Lady Visitant is carry'd in a Chair by four Men; the two first, in all
Weathers, always bare. Two others walk as a Guard, one on each Side;
another carrying a large Lanthorn for fear of being benighted; then
follows a Coach drawn by six Mules, with her Women, and after that
another with her Gentlemen; several Servants walking after, more or
less, according to the Quality of the Person. They never suffer their
Servants to over load a Coach, as is frequently seen with us, neither do
Coachmen or Chairmen go or drive as if they carried Midwives in lieu of
Ladies. On the contrary, they affect a Motion so slow and so stately,
that you would rather imagine the Ladies were every one of them near
their Time, and very apprehensive of a Miscarriage.
I remember not to have seen here any Horses in any Coach, but in the
King's, or an Embassador's; which can only proceed from Custom; for
certainly finer Horses are not to be found in the World.
At the Time of my being here, Cardinal _Giudici_ was at _Madrid_; he was
a tall, proper, comely Man, and one that made the best Appearance.
_Alberoni_ was there at the same Time, who, upon the Death of the Duke
of _Vendome_, had the good Fortune to find the Princess _Ursini_ his
Patroness. An Instance of whose Ingratitude will plead Pardon for this
little Digression. That Princess first brought _Alberoni_ into Favour at
Court. They were both of _Italy_, and that might be one Reason of that
Lady's espousing his Interest: tho' some there are, that assign it to
the Recommendation of the Duke of _Vendome_; with whom _Alberoni_ had
the Honour to be very intimate, as the other was always distinguish'd by
that Princess. Be which it will, certain it is, she was _Alberoni's_
first, and sole Patroness; which gave many People afterwards a very
smart Occasion of reflecting upon him, both as to his Integrity and
Gratitude. For, when _Alberoni_, upon the Death of King _Philip's_ first
Queen, had recommended this present Lady, who was his Countrywoman, (she
of _Parma_, and he of _Placentia_, both in the same Dukedom) and had
forwarded her Match with the King, with all possible Assiduity; and when
that Princess, pursuant to the Orders she had received from the King,
passed over into _Italy_ to accompany the Queen Elect into her own
Dominions; _Alberoni_, forgetful of the Hand that first advanced him,
sent a Letter to the present Queen, just before her Landing, that if she
resolved to be Queen of _Spain_, she must banish the Princess _Ursini_,
her Companion, and never let her come to Court. Accordingly that Lady,
to evince the Extent of her Power, and the Strength of her Resolution,
dipatch'd that Princess away, on her very Landing, and before she had
seen the King, under a Detachment of her own Guards, into _France_; and
all this without either allowing her an Opportunity of justifying her
self, or assigning the least Reason for so uncommon an Action. But the
same _Alberoni_ (though afterwards created Cardinal, and for some Time
King _Philip's_ Prime Minion) soon saw that Ingratitude of his rewarded
in his own Disgrace, at the very same Court.
I remember, when at _la Mancha_, Don _Felix Pachero_, in a Conversation
there, maintain'd, that three Women, at that Time, rul'd the World,
_viz._ Queen Anne, Madam _Mantenon_, and this Princess _Ursini_.
Father _Fahy's_ Civilities, when last at _Madrid_, exacting of me some
suitable Acknowledgment, I went to pay him a Visit; as to render him due
Thanks for the past, so to give him a further Account of his Countryman
_Brennan_; but I soon found he did not much incline to hear any Thing
more of _Murtough_, not expecting to hear any Good of him; for which
Reason, as soon as I well could, I changed the Conversation to another
Topick. In which some Word dropping of the Count _de Montery_, I told
him, that I heard he had taken Orders, and officiated at Mass: He made
answer, it was all very true. And upon my intimating, that I had the
Honour to serve under him in _Flanders_, on my first entring into
Service, and when he commanded the _Spanish_ Forces at the famous Battle
of _Seneff_; and adding, that I could not but be surprized, that he, who
was then one of the brightest _Cavalieroes_ of the Age, should now be in
Orders; and that I should look upon it as a mighty Favour barely to
have, if it might be, a View of him; he very obligingly told me, that he
was very well acquainted with him, and that if I would come the next
Day, he would not fail to accompany me to the Count's House.
Punctually at the Time appointed, I waited on Father _Fahy_, who, as he
promised, carry'd me to the Count's House: He was stepping into his
Coach just as we got there; but seeing Father _Fahy_, he advanced
towards us. The Father deliver'd my Desire in as handsom a Manner as
could be, and concluding with the Reason of it, from my having been in
that Service under him; he seem'd very well pleas'd, but added, that
there were not many beside my self living, who had been in that Service
with him. After some other Conversation, he call'd his Gentleman to him,
and gave him particular Orders to give us a _Frescari_, or in _English_,
an Entertainment; so taking leave, he went into his Coach, and we to our
_Frescari_.
Coming from which, Father _Fahi_ made me observe, in the open Street, a
Stone, on which was a visible great Stain of somewhat reddish and like
Blood.
"This," said he, "was occasion'd by the Death of a Countryman of mine,
who had the Misfortune to overset a Child, coming out of that House
(pointing to one opposite to us) the Child frighted, though not hurt, as
is natural, made a terrible Outcry; upon which its Father coming out in
a violent Rage (notwithstanding my Countryman beg'd Pardon, and pleaded
Sorrow as being only an Accident) stabb'd him to the Heart, and down he
fell upon that Stone, which to this Day retains the Mark of innocent
Blood, so rashly shed".
He went on, and told me, the _Spaniard_ immediately took Sanctuary in
the Church, whence some Time after he made his Escape. But Escapes of
that Nature are so common in _Spain_, that they are not worth wondering
at. For even though it were for wilful and premeditated Murder, if the
Murderer have taken Sanctuary, it was never known, that he was delivered
up to Justice, though demanded; but in some Disguise he makes his
Escape, or some Way is secured against all the Clamours of Power or
Equity. I have observed, that some of the greatest Quality stop their
Coaches over a stinking nasty Puddle, which they often find in the
Streets, and holding their Heads over the Door, snuff up the nasty Scent
which ascends, believing that 'tis extream healthful; when I was forced
to hold my Nose, passing by. 'Tis not convenient to walk out early in
the Morning, they having no necessary Houses, throw out their Nastiness
in the Middle of the Street.