Civilities, I went to pay a Visit to Mr. _Salter_, who was Secretary to
General _Stanhope_, when the _English_ Forces were made Prisoners of War
at _Breuhiga_; going up Stairs, I found the Door of his Lodgings a-jar;
and knocking, a Person came to the Door, who appeared under some
Surprize at Sight of me. I did not know him, but inquiring if Mr.
_Salter_ was within; He answered, as I fancy'd, with some Hesitation,
that he was but was busy in an inner Room. However, though unask'd, I
went in, resolving, since I had found him at home, to wait his Leisure.
In a little Time Mr. _Salter_ enter'd the Room; and after customary
Ceremonies, asking my Patience a little longer, he desired I would sit
down and bear Ensign _Fanshaw_ Company (for so he call'd him) adding at
going out, he had a little Business that required Dispatch; which being
over, he would return, and join Company.
The Ensign, as he call'd him, appear'd to me under a _Dishabileé_; and
the first Question he ask'd me, was, if I would drink a Glass of
_English_ Beer? Misled by his Appearance, though I assented, it was with
a Design to treat; which he would be no Means permit; but calling to a
Servant, ordered some in. We sat drinking that Liquor, which to me was a
greater Rarity than all the Wine in _Spain_; when in dropt an old
Acquaintance of mine, Mr. _Le Noy_, Secretary to Colonel _Nevil_. He sat
down with us, and before the Glass could go twice round, told Ensign
_Fanshaw_, That his Colonel gave his humble Service to him, and ordered
him to let him know, that he had but threescore Pistoles by him, which
he had sent, and which were at his Service, as what he pleas'd more
should be, as soon as it came to his Hands.
At this I began to look upon my Ensign as another guess Person than I
had taken him for; and _Le Noy_ imagining, by our setting cheek by joul
together, that I must be in the Secret, soon after gave him the Title of
Captain. This soon convinc'd me, that there was more in the Matter than
I was yet Master of; for laying Things together, I could not but argue
within my self, that as it seem'd at first, a most incredible Thing,
that a Person of his Appearance should have so large Credit, with such a
Complement at the End of it, without some Disguise, and as from an
Ensign he was risen to be a Captain, in the taking of one Bottle of
_English_ Beer; a little Patience would let me into a Farce, in which,
at present, I had not the Honour to bear any Part but that of a Mute.
At last _Le Noy_ took his leave, and as soon as he had left us, and the
other Bottle was brought in, Ensign _Fanshaw_ began to open his Heart,
and tell me, who he was. "I am necessitated," said he, "to be under this
Disguise, to conceal my self, especially in this Place.
"For you must know," continued he, "that when our Forces were Lords of
this Town, as we were for a little while, I fell under an Intrigue with
another Man's Wife; Her Husband was a Person of considerable Account;
nevertheless the Wife show'd me all the Favours that a Soldier, under a
long and hard Campaigne, could be imagined to ask. In short, her
Relations got acquainted with our Amour, and knowing that I was among
the Prisoners taken at _Breuhiga_, are now upon the Scout and Enquiry,
to make a Discovery that may be of fatal Consequence. This is the Reason
of my Disguise; this the unfortunate Occasion of my taking upon me a
Name that does not belong to me."
He spoke all this with such an Openness of Heart, that in return of so
much Confidence, I confess'd to him, that I had heard of the Affair, for
that it had made no little Noise all over the Country; that it highly
behoved him to take great Care of himself, since as the Relations on
both Sides were considerable, he must consequently be in great Danger;
That in Cases of that Nature, no People in the World carry Things to
greater Extremities, than the _Spaniards_. He return'd me Thanks for my
good Advice, which I understood, in a few Days after, he, with the
Assistance of his Friends, had taken Care to put in Practice; for he was
convey'd away secretly, and afterwards had the Honour to be made a Peer
of _Ireland_.
My Passport being at last sign'd by the Count _de las Torres_, I
prepared for a Journey, I had long and ardently wish'd for, and set out
from _Madrid_, in the Beginning of _September_, 1712, in Order to return
to my native Country.
Accordingly I set forward upon my Journey, but having heard, both before
and since my being in _Spain_, very famous Things spoken of the
_Escurial_; though it was a League out of my Road, I resolved to make it
a Visit. And I must confess, when I came there, I was so far from
condemning my Curiosity, that I chose to congratulate my good Fortune,
that had, at half a Day's Expence, feasted my Eyes with Extraordinaries,
which would have justify'd a Twelve-months' Journey on purpose.
The Structure is intirely magnificent, beyond any Thing I ever saw, or
any Thing my Imagination could frame. It is composed of eleven several
Quadrangles, with noble Cloisters round every one of them. The Front to
the West is adorn'd with three stately Gates; every one of a different
Model, yet every one the Model of nicest Architecture. The Middlemost of
the three leads into a fine Chapel of the _Hieronomites_, as they call
them; in which are entertain'd one hundred and fifty Monks. At every of
the four Corners of this august Fabrick, there is a Turret of excellent
Workmanship, which yields to the Whole an extraordinary Air of Grandure.
The King's Palace is on the North, nearest that Mountain, whence the
Stone it is built of was hew'n; and all the South Part is set off with
many Galleries, both beautiful and sumptuous.
This prodigious Pile, which, as I have said, exceeds all that I ever
saw; and which would ask, of it self, a Volume to particularize, was
built by _Philip_ the Second. He lay'd the first Stone, yet liv'd to see
it finished; and lies buryed in the _Panthæon_, a Part of it, set apart
for the Burial-place of succeeding Princes, as well as himself. It was
dedicated to Saint _Laurence_, in the very Foundation; and therefore
built in the Shape of a Gridiron, the Instrument of that Martyr's
Execution; and in Memory of a great Victory obtained on that Saint's
Day. The Stone of which it is built, contrary to the common Course,
grows whiter by Age; and the Quarry, whence it was dug, lies near
enough, if it had Sense or Ambition, to grow enamour'd of its own
wonderful Production. Some there are, who stick not to assign this
Convenience, as the main Cause of its Situation; and for my Part, I must
agree, that I have seen many other Parts of _Spain_, where that glorious
Building would have shone with yet far greater Splendour.
There was no Town of any Consequence presented it self in my Way to
_Burgos_. Here I took up my Quarters that Night; where I met with an
_Irish_ Priest, whose Name was _White_. As is natural on such
Rencounters, having answered his Enquiry, whither I was going; he very
kindly told me, he should be very glad of my Company as far as
_Victoria_, which lay in my Road; and I with equal Frankness embrac'd
the Offer.
Next Morning, when we had mounted our Mules, and were got a little
Distance from _Burgos_; he began to relate to me a great many impious
Pranks of an _English_ Officer, who had been a Prisoner there a little
before I came; concluding all, with some Vehemence, that he had given
greater Occasion of Scandal and Infamy to his native Country, than would
easily be wiped off, or in a little Time. The Truth of it is, many
Particularly, which he related to me, were too monstrously vile to admit
of any Repetition here; and highly meriting that unfortunate End, which
that Officer met with some time after. Nevertheless the just Reflection
made by that Father, plainly manifested to me the Folly of those
Gentlemen, who, by such Inadvertencies, to say no worse, cause the
Honour of the Land of their Nativity to be called in question. For tho',
no doubt, it is a very false Conclusion, from a singular, to conceive a
general Character; yet in a strange Country, nothing is more common, A
Man therefore, of common Sense, would carefully avoid all Occasions of
Censure, if not in respect to himself, yet out of a human Regard to such
of his Countrymen as may have the Fortune to come after him; and, it's
more than probable, may desire to hear a better and juster Character of
their Country, and Countrymen, than he perhaps might incline to leave
behind him.
As we travelled along, Father _White_ told me, that near the Place of
our Quartering that Night, there was a Convent of the _Carthusian_
Order, which would be well worth my seeing. I was doubly glad to hear
it, as it was an Order most a Stranger to me; and as I had often heard
from many others, most unaccountable Relations of the Severity of their
Way of Life, and the very odd Original of their Institution.
The next Morning therefore, being _Sunday_, we took a Walk to the
Convent. It was situated at the Foot of a great Hill, having a pretty
little River running before it. The Hill was naturally cover'd with
Evergreens of various Sorts; but the very Summit of the Rock was so
impending, that one would at first Sight be led to apprehend the
Destruction of the Convent, from the Fall of it. Notwithstanding all
which, they have very curious and well ordered Gardens; which led me to
observe, that, what ever Men may pretend, Pleasure was not incompatible
with the most austere Life. And indeed, if I may guess of others by
this, no Order in that Church can boast of finer Convents. Their Chapel
was completely neat, the Altar of it set out with the utmost
Magnificence, both as to fine Paintings, and other rich Adornments. The
Building was answerable to the rest; and, in short, nothing seem'd
omitted, that might render it beautiful or pleasant.
When we had taken a full Survey of all; we, not without some Regret,
return'd to our very indifferent Inn; Where the better to pass away the
Time, Father _White_ gave me an ample Detail of the Original of that
Order. I had before-hand heard somewhat of it; nevertheless, I did not
care to interrupt him, because I had a Mind to hear how his Account
would agree with what I had already heard.
"_Bruno_," said the Father, "the Author or Founder of this
Order, was not originally of this, but of another. He had a
holy Brother of the same Order, that was his Cell-mate, or
Chamber-fellow, who was reputed by all that ever saw or knew
him, for a Person of exalted Piety, and of a most exact holy
Life. This man, _Bruno_ had intimately known for many years;
and agreed in his Character, that general Consent did him no
more than Justice, having never observed any Thing in any of
his Actions, that, in his Opinion, could be offensive to God
or Man. He was perpetually at his Devotions; and
distinguishably remarkable, for never permitting any Thing but
pious Ejaculations to proceed out of his Mouth. In short, he
was reputed a Saint upon Earth.
"This Man at last dies, and, according to Custom, is removed
into the Chapel of the Convent, and there plac'd with a Cross
fix'd in his Hands: Soon after which, saying the proper Masses
for his Soul, in the Middle of their Devotion, the dead Man
lifts up his Head, and with an audible Voice, cry'd out,
_Vocatus sum_. The pious Brethren, as any one will easily
imagine, were most prodigiously surprised at such an Accident,
and therefore they earnestly redoubled their Prayers; when
hfting up his Head a second Time, the dead Man cried aloud,
_Judicatus sum_. Knowing his former Piety, the pious
Fraternity could not then entertain the least doubt of his
Felicity; when, to their great Consternation and Confusion, he
lifted up his Head a third Time, crying out in a terrible
Tone, _Damnatus sum_; upon which they incontinently removed
the Corps out of the Chapel, and threw it upon the Dunghill.
"Good _Bruno_, pondering upon these Passages, could not fail
of drawing this Conclusion; That if a Person to all Appearance
so holy and devout, should miss of Salvation, it behov'd a
wise Man to contrive some Way more certain to make his Calling
and Election sure. To that Purpose he instituted this strict
and severe Order, with an Injunction to them sacred as any
Part, that every Professor should always wear Hair Cloth next
his Skin, never eat any Flesh; nor speak to one another, only
as passing by, to say, _Memento mori_."
This Account I found to agree pretty well with what I had before heard;
but at the same Time, I found the Redouble of it made but just the same
Impression, it had at first made upon my Heart. However having made it
my Observation, that a Spirit the least contradictory, best carries a
Man through _Spain_; I kept Father White Company, and in Humour, 'till
we arrived at _Victoria_. Where he added one Thing, by Way of Appendix,
in Relation to the _Carthusians_, That every Person of the Society, is
oblig'd every Day to go into their Place of Burial, and take up as much
Earth, as he can hold at a Grasp with one Hand, in order to prepare his
Grave.
Next Day we set out for _Victoria_. It is a sweet, delicious, and
pleasant Town. It received that Name in Memory of a considerable Victory
there obtained over the _Moors_. Leaving this Place, I parted with
Father _White_; he going where his Affairs led him; and I to make the
best of my Way to _Bilboa_.
Entring into _Biscay_, soon after I left _Victoria_, I was at a Loss
almost to imagine, what Country I was got into. By my long Stay in
_Spain_, I thought my self a tolerable Master of the Tongue; yet here I
found my self at the utmost Loss to understand Landlord, Landlady, or
any of the Family. I was told by my Muletier, that they pretend their
Language, as they call it, has continued uncorrupted from the very
Confusion of _Babel_; though if I might freely give my Opinion in the
Matter, I should rather take it to be the very Corruption of all that
Confusion. Another _Rhodomontado_ they have, (for in this they are
perfect _Spaniards_) that neither _Romans, Carthaginians, Vandals,
Goths_, or _Moors_, ever totally subdued them. And yet any Man that has
ever seen their Country, might cut this Knot without a Hatchet, by
saying truly, that neither _Roman, Carthaginian_, nor any victorious
People, thought it worth while to make a Conquest of a Country, so
mountainous and so barren.
However, _Bilboa_ must be allowed, tho' not very large, to be a pretty,
clean and neat Town. Here, as in _Amsterdam_, they allow neither Cart,
nor Coach, to enter; but every Thing of Merchandize is drawn, and
carried upon Sledges: And yet it is a Place of no small Account, as to
Trade; and especially for Iron and Wooll. Here I hop'd to have met with
an opportunity of Embarking for _England_; but to my Sorrow I found my
self disappointed, and under that Disappointment, obliged to make the
best of my Way to _Bayonne_.
Setting out for which Place, the first Town of Note that I came to, was
_Saint Sebastian_. A very clean Town, and neatly pay'd; which is no
little Rarity in _Spain_. It has a very good Wall about it, and a pretty
Citadel. At this Place I met with two _English_ Officers, who were under
the same state with my self; one of them being a Prisoner of War with me
at _Denia_. They were going to _Bayonne_ to embark for _England_ as well
as my self; so we agreed to set out together for _Port Passage_. The
Road from St. _Sebastian_ is all over a well pav'd Stone Causeway;
almost at the end whereof, there accosted us a great number of young
Lasses. They were all prettily dress'd, their long Hair flowing in a
decent manner over their Shoulders, and here and there decorated with
Ribbons of various Colours, which wantonly play'd on their Backs with
the Wind. The Sight surpriz'd my Fellow Travellers no less than me; and
the more, as they advanced directly up to us, and seiz'd our Hands. But
a little time undeceiv'd us, and we found what they came for; and that
their Contest, tho' not so robust as our Oars on the _Thames_, was much
of the same Nature; each contending who should have us for their Fare.
For 'tis here a Custom of Time out of mind, that none but young Women
should have the management and profit of that Ferry. And tho' the Ferry
is over an Arm of the Sea, very broad, and sometimes very rough, those
fair Ferriers manage themselves with that Dexterity, that the Passage is
very little dangerous, and in calm Weather, very pleasant. In short, we
made choice of those that best pleased us; who in a grateful Return, led
us down to their Boat under a sort of Music, which they, walking along,
made with their Oars, and which we all thought far from being
disagreeable. Thus were we transported over to _Port Passage_; not
undeservedly accounted the best Harbour in all the Bay of _Biscay_.
We stay'd not long here after Landing, resolving, if possible, to reach
_Fonterabia_ before Night; but all the Expedition we could use, little
avail'd; for before we could reach thither the Gates were shut, and good
Nature and Humanity were so lock'd up with them, that all the Rhetorick
we were Masters of could not prevail upon the Governor to order their
being opened; for which Reason we were obliged to take up our Quarters
at the Ferry House.
When we got up the next Morning, we found the Waters so broad, as well
as rough, that we began to enquire after another Passage; and were
answer'd, that at the Isle of _Conference_, but a short League upwards,
the Passage was much shorter, and exposed to less Danger. Such good
Reasons soon determind's us: So, setting out we got there in a very
little Time; and very soon after were landed in _France_. Here we found
a House of very good Entertainment, a Thing we had long wanted, and much
lamented the want of.
We were hardly well seated in the House before we were made sensible,
that it was the Custom, which had made it the business of our Host, to
entertain all his Guests at first coming in, with a prolix Account of
that remarkable Interview between the two Kings of _France_ and _Spain_.
I speak safely now, as being got on _French_ Ground: For the _Spaniard_
in his own Country would have made me to know, that putting _Spain_
after _France_ had there been look'd upon as a meer Solecism in Speech.
However, having refiresh'd our selves, to show our deference to our
Host's Relation, we agreed to pay our Respects to that famous little
Isle he mention'd; which indeed, was the whole burden of the Design of
our crafty Landlord's Relation.
When we came there, we found it a little oval Island, over-run with
Weeds, and surrounded with Reeds and Rushes.
"Here," said our Landlord (for he went with us) "upon this
little Spot, were at that juncture seen the two greatest
Monarchs in the Universe. A noble Pavilion was erected in the
very middle of it, and in the middle of that was placed a very
large oval Table; at which was the Conference, from which the
Place receiv'd its Title. There were two Bridges rais'd; one
on the _Spanish_ side, the Passage to which was a little upon
a Descent by reason of the Hills adjacent; and the other upon
the _French_ side, which as you see, was all upon a Level. The
Musick playing, and Trumpets sounding, the two Kings, upon a
Signal agreed upon, set forward at the same time; the
_Spanish_ Monarch handing the _Infanta_ his Daughter to the
Place of Interview. As soon as they were enter'd the Pavilion,
on each Side, all the Artillery fired, and both Annies after
that made their several Vollies. Then the King of _Spain_
advancing on his side the Table with the _Infanta_, the King
of _France_ advanced at the same Moment on the other; till
meeting, he received the _Infanta_ at the Hands of her Father,
as his Queen; upon which, both the Artillery and small Arms
fir'd as before. After this, was a most splendid and sumptuous
Entertainment; which being over, both Kings retir'd into their
several Dominions; the King of _France_ conducting his new
Queen to _Saint Jean de Luz_, where the Marriage was
consummated; and the King of _Spain_ returning to _Port
Passage_."
After a Relation so very inconsistent with the present State of the
Place; we took Horse (for Mule-mounting was now out of Fashion) and rode
to _Saint Jean de Luz_, where we found as great a difference in our
Eating and Drinking, as we had before done in our Riding. Here they
might be properly call'd Houses of Entertainment; tho' generally
speaking, till we came to this Place, we met with very mean Fare, and
were poorly accommodated in the Houses where we lodged.
A Person that travels this way, would be esteem'd a Man of a narrow
Curiosity, who should not desire to see the Chamber where _Louis le
grand_ took his first Night's Lodging with his Queen. Accordingly, when
it was put into my Head, out of an Ambition to evince my self a Person
of Taste, I asked the Question, and the Favour was granted me, with a
great deal of _French_ Civility. Not that I found any Thing here, more
than in the Isle of _Conference_, but what Tradition only had rendered
remarkable.
_Saint Jean de Luz_ is esteem'd one of the greatest Village Towns in all
_France_. It was in the great Church of this Place, that _Lewis_ XIV
according to Marriage Articles, took before the high Altar the Oath of
Renunciation to the Crown of _Spain_, by which all the Issue of that
Marriage were debarred Inheritance, if Oaths had been obligatory with
Princes. The Natives here are reckon'd expert Seamen; especially in
Whale fishing. Here is a fine Bridge of Wood; in the middle of which is
a Descent, by Steps, into a pretty little Island; where is a Chapel, and
a Palace belonging to the Bishop of _Bayonne_. Here the Queen Dowager of
_Spain_ often walks to divert herself; and on this Bridge, and in the
Walks on the Island, I had the Honour to see that Princess more than
once.
This _Villa_ not being above four Leagues from _Bayonne_, we got there
by Dinner time, where at an Ordinary of twenty _Sous_, we eat and drank
in Plenty, and with a _gusto_, much better than in any part of _Spain_;
where for eating much worse, we paid very much more.
_BAYONNE_ is a Town strong by Nature; yet the Fortifications have been
very much neglected, since the building of the Citadel, on the other
Side the River; which not only commands the Town, but the Harbour too.
It is a noble Fabrick; fair and strong, and rais'd on the side of a
Hill, wanting nothing that Art could furnish, to render it impregnable.
The Marshal _Bouflers_ had the Care of it in its erection; and there is
a fine Walk near it, from which he us'd to survey the Workmen, which
still carries his Name. There are two noble Bridges here, tho' both of
Wood, one over that River which runs on one side the Town; the other
over that, which divides it in the middle, the Tide runs thro' both with
vast Rapidity; notwithstanding which, Ships of Burden come up, and
paying for it, are often fasten'd to the Bridge, while loading or
unloading. While I was here, there came in four or five _English_ Ships
laden with Corn, the first, as they told me, that had come in to unlade
there, since the beginning of the War.
On that Side of the River where the new Citadel is built, at a very
little distance lies _Pont d' Esprit_, a Place mostly inhabited by
_Jews_, who drive a great Trade there, and are esteemed very rich, tho'
as in all other Countries mostly very rogueish. Here the Queen Dowager
of _Spain_ has kept her Court ever since the Jealousy of the present
King reclus'd her from _Madrid_. As Aunt to his Competitor _Charles_
(now Emperor) he apprehended her Intrigueing; for which Reason giving
her an Option of Retreat, that Princess made choice of this City, much
to the Advantage of the Place, and in all Appearance much to her own
Satisfaction. She is a Lady not of the lesser Size; and lives here in
suitable Splendour, and not without the Respect due to a Person of her
high Quality: Every time she goes to take the Air, the Cannon of the
Citadel saluting her, as she passes over the Bridge; and to say Truth,
the Country round is extremely pleasant, and abounds in plenty of all
Provisions; especially in wild Fowl. _Bayonne_ Hams are, to a Proverb,
celebrated all over _France_.