credibly informed of; That General _Carpenter_ offered to have gone, and
have join'd General _Staremberg_ with the Horse, which was refus'd him.
This was certainly an Oversight of the highest Nature; since his going
would have strengthen'd _Staremberg_ almost to the Assurance of an
intire Victory; whereas his Stay was of no manner of Service, but quite
the contrary: For, as I said before, the Enemy, by re-mounting the
_English_ Horse (which perhaps were the compleatest of any Regiment in
the World) turn'd, if I may be allowed the Expression, the Strength of
our Artillery upon our Allies.
Upon this Retreat of _Staremberg_, and the Surprize at _Breuhiga_, there
were great Rejoicings at _Madrid_, and everywhere else, where King
_Philip's_ Interest prevailed. And indeed it might be said, from that
Day the Interest of King _Charles_ look'd with a very lowering Aspect. I
was still a Prisoner at _la Mancha_, when this News arriv'd; and very
sensibly affected at that strange Turn of Fortune. I was in bed, when
the Express pass'd through the Town, in order to convey it farther; and
in the Middle of the Night I heard a certain _Spanish_ Don, with whom, a
little before, I had had some little Variance, thundering at my Door,
endeavouring to burst it open, with, as I had Reason to suppose, no very
favourable Design upon me. But my Landlady, who hitherto had always been
kind and careful, calling Don _Felix_, and some others of my Friends
together, sav'd me from the Fury of his Designs, whatever they were.
Among other Expressions of the general Joy upon this Occasion, there was
a Bull-Feast at _la Mancha_; which being much beyond what I saw at
_Valencia_, I shall here give a Description of. These Bull-Feasts are
not so common now in _Spain_ as formerly, King _Philip_ not taking much
Delight in them. Nevertheless, as soon as it was publish'd here, that
there was to be one, no other Discourse was heard; and in the Talk of
the Bulls, and the great Preparations for the Feast, Men seem'd to have
lost, or to have lay'd aside, all Thoughts of the very Occasion. A
Week's time was allow'd for the Building of Stalls for the Beasts, and
Scaffolds for the Spectators; and other necessary Preparations for the
setting off their Joy with the most suitable Splendour.
On the Day appointed for the bringing the Bulls into Town, the
_Cavalieroes_ mounted their Horses, and, with Spears in their Hands,
rode out of Town about a League, or somewhat more to meet them: If any
of the Bulls break from the Drove, and make an Excursion (as they
frequently do) the _Cavaliero_ that can make him return again to his
Station among his Companions, is held in Honour, suitable to the
Dexterity and Address he performs it with. On their Entrance into the
Town, all the Windows are fill'd with Spectators; a Pope passing in
grand Procession could not have more; for what can be more than all? And
he or she who should neglect so rare a Show, would give Occasion to have
his or her Legitimacy call'd in Question.
When they come to the _Plaza_, where the Stalls and Scaffolds are built,
and upon which the Feats of Chivalry are to be performed, it is often
with a great deal of Difficulty that the Brutes are got in; for there
are twelve Stalls, one for every Bull, and as their Number grows less by
the enstalling of some, the Remainder often prove more untractable and
unruly: In these Stalls they are kept very dark, to render them fiercer
for the Day of Battle.
On the first of the Days appointed (for a Bull-Feast commonly lasts
three) all the Gentry of the Place, or near adjacent, resort to the
_Plaza_ in their most gaudy Apparel, every one vieing in making the most
glorious Appearance. Those in the lower Ranks provide themselves with
Spears, or a great many small Darts in their Hands, which they fail not
to cast or dart, whenever the Bull by his Nearness gives them an
Opportunity. So that the poor Creature may be said to fight, not only
with the Tauriro (or Bullhunter, a Person always hired for that Purpose)
but with the whole Multitude in the lower Class at least.
All being seated, the uppermost Door is open'd first; and as soon as
ever the Bull perceives the Light, out he comes, snuffing up the Air,
and stareing about him, as if in admiration of his attendants; and with
his Tail cock'd up, he spurns the Ground with his Forefeet, as if he
intended a Challenge to his yet unappearing Antagonist. Then at a Door
appointed for that purpose, enters the Tauriro all in white, holding a
Cloak in one Hand, and a sharp two edged Sword in the other. The Bull no
sooner sets Eyes upon him, but wildly staring, he moves gently towards
him; then gradually mends his pace, till he is come within about the
space of twenty Yards of the Tauriro; when, with a sort of Spring, he
makes at him with all his might. The Tauriro knowing by frequent
Experience, that it behoves him to be watchful, slips aside just when
the Bull is at him; when casting his Cloak over his Horns, at the same
Moment he gives him a slash or two, always aiming at the Neck, where
there is one particular Place, which if he hit, he knows he shall easily
bring him to the Ground. I my Self observ'd the truth of this Experiment
made upon one of the Bulls, who receiv'd no more than one Cut, which
happening upon the fatal Spot, so stun'd him, that he remain'd perfectly
stupid, the Blood flowing out from the Wound, till after a violent
Trembling he dropt down stone dead.
But this rarely happens, and the poor Creature oftner receives many
Wounds, and numberless Darts, before he dies. Yet whenever he feels a
fresh Wound either from Dart, Spear, or Sword, his Rage receives
addition from the Wound, and he pursues his Tauriro with an Increase of
Fury and Violence. And as often as he makes at his Adversary, the
Tauriro takes care with the utmost of his Agility to avoid him, and
reward his kind Intention with a new Wound.
Some of their Bulls will play their Parts much better than others: But
the best must die. For when they have behav'd themselves with all the
commendable Fury possible; if the Tauriro is spent, and fail of doing
Execution upon him, they set Dogs upon him: Hough him and stick him all
over with Darts, till with very loss of Blood he puts an end to their
present Cruelty.
When dead, a Man brings in two Mules dress'd out with Bells and
Feathers, and fastening a Rope about his Horns, draws off the Bull with
the Shouts and Acclamations of the Spectators; as if the Infidels had
been drove from before _Ceuta_.
I had almost forgot another very common piece of barbarous Pleasure at
these Diversions. The Tauriro will sometimes stick one of their Bull
Spears fast in the Ground, aslant, but levell'd as near as he can at his
Chest; then presenting himself to the Bull, just before the point of the
Spear, on his taking his run at the Tauriro, which, as they assur'd me,
he always does with his Eyes closed, the Tauriro slips on one side, and
the poor Creature runs with a violence often to stick himself, and
sometimes to break the Spear in his Chest, running away with part of it
till he drop.
This _Tauriro_ was accounted one of the best in _Spain_; and indeed I
saw him mount the back of one of the Bulls, and ride on him, slashing
and cutting, till he had quite wearied him; at which time dismounting,
he kill'd him with much Ease, and to the acclamatory Satisfaction of the
whole Concourse: For variety of Cruelty, as well as Dexterity,
administers to their Delight.
The _Tauriroes_ are very well paid; and in Truth so they ought to be;
for they often lose their Lives in the Diversion, as this did the Year
after in the way of his Calling. Yet is it a Service of very great
Profit when they perform dextrously: For when ever they do any Thing
remarkable, deserving the Notice of the Spectators, they never fail of a
generous Gratification, Money being thrown down to 'em in plenty.
This Feast (as they generally do) lasted three Days; the last of which
was, in my Opinion, much before either of the other. On this, a young
Gentleman, whose Name was _Don Pedro Ortega_, a Person of great Quality,
perform'd the Exercise on Horseback. The Seats, if not more crowded,
were filled with People of better Fashion, who came from Places at a
distance to grace the noble _Tauriro_.
He was finely mounted, and made a very graceful Figure; but as when the
Foot _Tauriro_ engages, the Bull first enters, so in the Contest the
_Cavaliero_ always makes his Appearance on the _Plaza_ before the Bull.
His Steed was a manag'd Horse; mounted on which he made his Entry,
attended by four Footmen in rich Liveries; who, as soon as their Master
had rid round, and paid his Devoirs to all the Spectators, withdrew from
the Dangers they left him expos'd to. The _Cavaliero_ having thus made
his Bows, and received the repeated Vivas of that vast Concourse,
march'd with a very stately Air to the very middle of the _Plaza_,
there standing ready to receive his Enemy at coming out.
The Door being open'd, the Bull appeared; and as I thought with a
fiercer and more threatning Aspect that any of the former. He star'd
around him for a considerable time, snuffing up the Air, and spurning
the Ground, without in the least taking notice of his Antagonist. But at
last fixing his Eyes upon him, he made a full run at the _Cavaliero_,
which he most dexterously avoided, and at the same moment of time,
passing by, he cast a Dart that stuck in his Shoulders. At this the
Shouts and _Vivas_ were repeated; and I observed a Handkerchief wav'd
twice or thrice, which, as I afterwards understood, was a Signal from
the Lady of his Affections, that she had beheld him with Satisfaction. I
took notice that the _Cavaliero_ endeavour'd all he could to keep aside
the Bull, for the Advantage of the Stroke, when putting his Horse on a
full Career, he threw another Dart, which fix'd in his Side, and so
enrag'd the Beast, that he seem'd to renew his Attacks with greater
Fury. The _Cavaliero_ had behav'd himself to Admiration, and escap'd
many Dangers; with the often repeated Acclamations of _Viva, Viva_; when
at last the enraged Creature getting his Horns between the Horse's
hinder Legs, Man and Horse came both together to the Ground.
I expected at that Moment nothing less than Death could be the Issue;
when to the general Surprize, as well as mine, the very civil Brute,
Author of all the Mischief, only withdrew to the other Side of the
_Plaza_, where he stood still, staring about him as if he knew nothing
of the Matter.
The _Cavaliero_ was carry'd off not much hurt, but his delicate Beast
suffer'd much more. However I could not but think afterward, that the
good natur'd Bull came short of fair Play. If I may be pardon'd the
Expression, he had us'd his Adversary with more Humanity than he met
with; at least, since, after he had the _Cavaliero_ under, he generously
forsook him; I think he might have pleaded, or others for him, for
better Treatment than he after met with.
For as the _Cavaliero_ was disabled and carry'd off, the Foot _Tauriro_
enter'd in white Accoutrements, as before; but he flatter'd himself with
an easier Conquest than he found: there is always on these Occasions,
when he apprehends any imminent Danger, a Place of Retreat ready for the
Foot _Tauriro_; and well for him there was so; this Bull oblig'd him
over and over to make Use of it. Nor was he able at last to dispatch
him, without a general Assistance; for I believe I speak within Compass,
when I say, he had more than an hundred Darts stuck in him. And so
barbarously was he mangled, and flash'd besides, that, in my Mind, I
could not but think King _Philip_ in the Right, when he said, _That it
was a Custom deserv'd little Encouragement_.
Soon after this _Tauridore_, or Bull-Feast was over, I had a Mind to
take a pleasant Walk to a little Town, call'd _Minai_, about three
Leagues off; but I was scarce got out of _la Mancha_, when an
Acquaintance meeting me, ask'd where I was going? I told him to _Minai_;
when taking me by the Hand, _Friend_ Gorgio, says he in _Spanish, Come
back with me; you shall not go a Stride further; there are_ Picarons
_that Way; you shall not go_. Inquiring, as we went back, into his
Meaning, he told me, that the Day before, a Man, who had received a Sum
of Money in Pistoles at _la Mancha_, was, on the road, set upon by some,
who had got notice of it, and murdered him; that not finding the Money
expected about him (for he had cautiously enough left it in a Friend's
Hands at _la Mancha_) they concluded he had swallowed it; and therefore
they ript up his Belly, and open'd every Gut; but all to as little
Purpose. This diverted my Walk for that time.
But some little Time after, the same Person inviting me over to the same
Place, to see his Melon-Grounds, which in that Country are wonderful
fine and pleasant; I accepted his Invitation, and under the Advantage of
his Company, went thither. On the Road I took notice of a Cross newly
erected, and a Multitude of small stones around the Foot of it: Asking
the Meaning whereof, my Friend told me, that it was rais'd for a Person
there murder'd (as is the Custom throughout _Spain_) and that every good
Catholick passing by, held it his Duty to cast a Stone upon the Place,
in Detestation of the Murder. I had often before taken Notice of many
such Crosses: but never till then knew the Meaning of their Erection, or
the Reason of the Heaps of Stones around them.
There is no Place in all _Spain_ more famous for good Wine than _Sainte
Clemente de la Mancha_; nor is it any where sold cheaper: For as it is
only an inland Town, near no navigable River, and the People temperate
to a Proverb, great Plenty, and a small Vend must consequently make it
cheap. The Wine here is so famous, that, when I came to _Madrid_, I saw
wrote over the Doors of host Houses that sold Wine, _Vino Sainte
Clemente_. As to the Temperance of the People, I must say, that
notwithstanding those two excellent Qualities of good and cheap, I never
saw, all the three Years I was Prisoner there, any one Person overcome
with Drinking.
It is true, there may be a Reason, and a political one, assign'd for
that Abstemiousness of theirs, which is this, That if any Man, upon any
Occasion, should be brought in as an Evidence against you, if you can
prove that he was ever drunk, it will invalidate his whole Evidence. I
could not but think this a grand Improvement upon the _Spartans_. They
made their Slaves purposely drunk, to shew their Youth the Folly of the
Vice by the sottish Behaviour of their Servants under it: But they never
reach'd to that noble height of laying a Penalty upon the Aggressor, or
of discouraging a voluntary Impotence of Reason by a disreputable
Impotence of Interest. The _Spaniard_ therefore, in my Opinion, in this
exceeds the _Spartan_, as much as a natural Beauty exceeds one procured
by Art; for tho' Shame may somewhat influence some few, Terrour is of
force to deter all. A Man, we have seen it, may shake Hands with Shame;
but _Interest_, says another Proverb, _will never lye_. A wise
Institution therefore doubtless is this of the _Spaniard_; but such as I
fear will never take Place in _Germany, Holland, France_, or _Great
Britain_.
But though I commend their Temperance, I would not be thought by any
Means to approve of their Bigotry. If there may be such a Thing as
Intemperance in Religion, I much fear their Ebriety in that will be
found to be over-measure. Under the notion of Devotion, I have seen Men
among 'em, and of Sense too, guilty of the grossest Intemperancies. It
is too common to be a rarity to see their Dons of the prime Quality as
well as those of the lower Ranks, upon meeting a Priest in the open
Streets, condescend to take up the lower part of his Vestment, and
salute it with Eyes erected as if they look'd upon it as the Seal of
Salvation.
When the _Ave-Bell_ is heard, the Hearer must down on his Knees upon the
very Spot; nor is he allowed the small Indulgence of deferring a
little, till he can recover a clean Place; Dirtiness excuses not, nor
will dirty Actions by any means exempt. This is so notorious, that even
at the Play-house, in the middle of a Scene, on the first sound of the
Bell, the Actors drop their Discourse, the Auditors supersede the
indulging of their unsanctified Ears, and all on their Hearts, quite a
different way, to what they just before had been employ'd in. In short,
tho' they pretend in all this to an extraordinary Measure of Zeal and
real Devotion; no Man, that lives among them any time, can be a
Proselyte to them without immolating his Senses and his Reason: Yet I
must confess, while I have seen them thus deludeing themselves with _Ave
Marias_, I you'd not refrain throwing up my Eyes to the only proper
Object of Adoration, in commiseration of such Delusions.
The Hours of the _Ave Bell_, are eight and twelve in the Morning, and
six in the Evening. They pretend at the first to fall down in beg that
God would be pleas'd to prosper them in all things they go about that
Day. At twelve they return Thanks for their Preservation to that time;
and at six for that of the whole Day. After which, one would think that
they imagine themselves at perfect Liberty; and their open Gallantries
perfectly countenance the Imagination: for tho' Adultery is look'd upon
as a grievous Crime, and punish'd accordingly; yet Fornication is
softened with the title of a Venial Sin, and they seem to practise it
under that Persuasion.
I found here, what _Erasmus_ ridicules with so much Wit and Delicacy,
the custom of burying in a _Franciscan's_ Habit, in mighty request. If
they can for that purpose procure an old one at the price of a new one;
the Purchaser wil look upon himself a provident Chap, that has secur'd
to his deceased Friend or Relation, no less than Heaven by that wise
Bargain.
The Evening being almost the only time of Enjoyment of Company, or
Conversation, every body in _Spain_ then greedily seeks it; and the
Streets are at that time crowded like our finest Gardens or most private
Walks. On one of those Occasions, I met a Don of my Acquaintance walking
out with his Sisters; and as I thought it became an _English_ Cavalier,
I saluted him: But to my Surprize he never return'd the Civility. When I
met him the Day after, instead of an Apology, as I had flattered my
self, I received a Reprimand, tho' a very civil one; telling me it was
the Custom in _Spain_, nor well taken of any one, that took Notice of
any who were walking in the Company of Ladies at Night.
But a Night or two after, I found by Experience, that if the Men were by
Custom prohibited taking Notice, Women were not. I was standing at the
Door, in the cool of the Evening, when a Woman seemingly genteel,
passing by, call'd me by my Name, telling me she wanted to speak with
me: She had her _Mantilio_ on; so that had I had Day-light, I could have
only seen one Eye of her. However I walk'd with her a good while,
without being able to discover any thing of her Business, nor pass'd
there between us any thing more than a Conversation upon indifferent
Matters. Nevertheless, at parting she told me she should pass by again
the next Evening; and if I would be at the Door, she would give me the
same Advantage of a Conversation, That seem'd not to displease me.
Accordingly the next Night she came, and as before we walk'd together in
the privatest parts of the Town: For tho' I knew her not, her Discourse
was always entertaining and full of Wit, and her Enquiries not often
improper. We had continu'd this Intercourse many Nights together, when
my Landlady's Daughter having taken Notice of it, stopt me one Evening,
and would not allow me to stand at the usual Post of Intelligence,
saying, with a good deal of heat, _Don Gorgio, take my Advice; go no
more along with that Woman: You may soon be brought home deprived of
your Life if you do_. I cannot say, whether she knew her; but this I
must say, she was very agreeable in Wit as well as Person. However my
Landlady and her Daughter took that Opportunity of giving me so many
Instances of the fatal Issues of such innocent Conversations, (for I
could not call it an Intrigue) that apprehensive enough of the Danger,
on laying Circumstances together, I took their Advice, and never went
into her Company after.
_Sainte Clemente de la Mancha_, where I so long remain'd a Prisoner of
War, lies in the Road from _Madrid_ to _Valencia_; and the Duke of
_Vendome_ being ordered to the latter, great Preparations were made for
his Entertainment, as he pass'd through. He stay'd here only one Night,
where he was very handsomely treated by the _Corrigidore_. He was a
tall fair Person, and very fat, and at the time I saw him wore a long
black Patch over his left Eye; but on what Occasion I could not learn.
The afterwards famous _Alberoni_ (since made a Cardinal) was in his
Attendance; as indeed the Duke was very rarely without him. I remember
that very Day three Weeks, they return'd through the same Place; the
Duke in his Herse, and _Alberoni_ in a Coach, paying his last Duties.
That Duke was a prodigious Lover of Fish, of which having eat over
heartily at _Veneros_, in the Province of _Valencia_, he took a Surfeit,
and died in three Days' time. His Corps was carrying to the _Escurial_,
there to be buried in the _Panthæon_ among their Kings.
The _Castilians_ have a Privilege by Licence from the Pope, which, if it
could have been converted into a Prohibition, might have sav'd that
Duke's Life: In regard their Country is wholly inland, and the River
_Tagus_ famous for its Poverty, or rather Barrenness; their Holy Father
indulges the Natives with the Liberty, in lieu of that dangerous
Eatable, of eating all Lent time the Inwards of Cattle. When I first
heard this related, I imagin'd, that the Garbidge had been intended, but
I was soon after this rectify'd, _by Inwards_ (for so expressly says the
Licence it self) _is meant the Heart, the Liver, and the Feet_.
They have here as well as in most other Parts of _Spain, Valencia_
excepted, the most wretched Musick in the Universe. Their _Guitars_, if
not their _Sole_, are their darling Instruments, and what they most
delight in: Tho' in my Opinion our _English_ Sailors are not much amiss
in giving them the Title of _Strum Strums_. They are little better than
our _Jews-harps,_ tho' hardly half so Musical. Yet are they perpetually
at Nights disturbing their Women with the Noise of them, under the
notion and name of Serenadoes. From the Barber to the Grandee the
Infection spreads, and very often with the same Attendant, Danger: Night
Quarrels and Rencounters being the frequent Result. The true born
_Spaniards_ reckon it a part of their Glory, to be jealous of their
Mistresses, which is too often the Forerunner of Murders; at best
attended with many other very dangerous Inconveniences. And yet bad as
their Musick is, their Dancing is the reverse. I have seen a Country
Girl manage her Castanets with the graceful Air of a Dutchess, and that
not to common Musick; but to Peoples beating or druming a Tune with
their Hands on a Table. I have seen half a Dozen couple at a time dance
to the like in excellent order.
I just now distinguish'd, by an Exception, the Music of _Valencia_,
where alone I experienced the use of the Violin; which tho' I cannot, in
respect to other Countries, call good; yet in respect to the other parts
of _Spain_, I must acknowledge it much the best. In my Account of that
City, I omitted to speak of it; therefore now to supply that Defect, I
will speak of the best I heard, which was on this unfortunate Occasion:
Several Natives of that Country having received Sentence of Death for
their Adherence to King _Charles_, were accordingly ordered to the Place
of Execution. It is the Custom there, on all such Occasions, for all the
Musick of the City to meet near the Gallows, and play the most affecting
and melancholy Airs, to the very approach of the Condemn'd; and really
the Musick was so moving, it heightened the Scene of Sorrow, and brought
Compassion into the Eyes of even Enemies.