Bigotry, of any that I met with in all _Spain_; of which in my
Conversation with them I had daily Instances. Among many others, an
Expression that fell from _Don Felix Pacheco_, a Gentleman of the best
Figure thereabout, and of a very plentiful Fortune, shall now suffice. I
was become very intimate with him; and we us'd often to converse
together with a Freedom too dangerous to be common in a Country so
enslav'd by the Inquisition. Asking me one Day in a sort of a jocose
manner, who, in my Opinion, had done the greatest Miracles that ever
were heard of? I answer'd, Jesus Christ.
"It is very true," says he, "Jesus Christ did great Miracles, and a
great one it was to feed five Thousand People with two or three small
Fishes, and a like number of Loaves: But _Saint Francis_, the Founder of
the _Franciscan_ Order, has found out a way to feed daily one hundred
Thousand Lubbards with nothing at all"; meaning the _Franciscans_, the
Followers of Saint _Francis_, who have no visible Revenues; yet in their
way of Living come up to, if they do not exceed any other Order.
Another Day talking of the Place, it naturally led us into a Discourse
of the Knight of _la Mancha, Don Quixot_. At which time he told me, that
in his Opinion, that Work was a perfect Paradox, being the best and the
worst Romance, that ever was wrote.
"For," says he, "tho' it must infallibly please every Man, that has any
taste of Wit; yet has it had such a fatal Effect upon the Spirits of my
Countrymen, that every Man of Wit must ever resent; for," continu'd he,
"before the Appearance in the World of that Labour of _Cerviantes_, it
was next to an Impossibility for a Man to walk the Streets with any
Delight, or without Danger. There were seen so many Cavaliero's prancing
and curvetting before the Windows of their Mistresses, that a Stranger
would have imagin'd the whole Nation to have been nothing less than a
Race of Knight Errants. But after the World became a little acquainted
with that notable History; the Man that was seen in that once celebrated
Drapery, was pointed at as a _Don Quixot_, and found himself the Jest of
High and Low. And I verily believe," added he, "that to this, and this
only we owe that dampness and poverty of Spirit, which has run thro' all
our Councils for a Century past, so little agreeable to those nobler
Actions of our famous Ancestors."
After many of these lesser sorts of Confidences, _Don Felix_ recommended
me to a Lodging next Door to his own. It was at a Widow's, who had one
only Daughter, her House just opposite to a _Francisan_ Nunnery. Here I
remain'd somewhat upwards of two Years; all which time, lying in my Bed,
I could hear the Nuns early in the Morning at their _Matins_, and late
in the Evening at their _Vespers_, with Delight enough to my self, and
without the least Indecency in the World in my Thoughts of them. Their
own Divine Employ too much employ'd every Faculty of mine to entertain
any Thing inconsentaneous or offensive.
This my Neighbourhood to the Nunnery gave me an opportunity of seeing
two Nuns invested; and in this I must do a Justice to the whole Country,
to acknowledge, that a Stranger who is curious (I would impute it rather
to their hopes of Conversion, than to their Vanity) shall be admitted to
much greater Freedoms in their religious Pageantries, than any Native.
One of these Nuns was of the first Quality, which render'd the Ceremony
more remarkably fine. The manner of investing them was thus: In the
Morning her Relations and Friends all met at her Father's House; whence,
she being attir'd in her most sumptuous Apparel, and a Coronet plac'd on
her Head, they attended her, in Cavalcade, to the Nunnery, the Streets
and Windows being crowded, and fill'd with Spectators of all sorts.
So soon as she enter'd the Chapel belonging to the Nunnery, she kneel'd
down, and with an appearance of much Devotion, saluted the Ground; then
rising up, she advanced a Step or two farther, when on her Knees she
repeated the Salutes: This done she approached to the Altar, where she
remained till Mass was over: After which, a Sermon was preach'd by one
of the Priests in Praise, or rather in an exalted Preference of a single
Life. The Sermon being over, the Nun elect fell down on her Knees before
the Altar; and after some short mental Oraisons, rising again, she
withdrew into an inner Room, where stripping off all her rich Attire,
she put on her Nun's Weeds: In which making her Appearance, she, again
kneeling, offer'd up some private Devotions; which being over, she was
led to the Door of the Nunnery, where the Lady and the rest of the Nuns
stood ready to receive her with open Arms. Thus enter'd, the Nuns
conducted her into the Quire, where after they had entertained her with
Singing, and playing upon the Organ, the Ceremony concluded, and every
one departed to their proper Habitations.
The very same Day of the Year ensuing the Relations and Friends of the
fair Novitiate meet again in the Chapel of the Nunnery, where the Lady
Abbess brings her out, and delivers her to them. Then again is there a
Sermon preach'd on the same Subject as at first; which being over, she
is brought up to the Altar, in a decent, but plain Dress, the fine
Apparel, which she put off on her Initiation, being deposited on one
side of the Altar, and her Nun's Weeds on the other. Here the Priest in
Latin cries, _Utrum horum mavis, accipe_: to which she answers, as her
Inclination, or as her Instruction directs her. If she, after this her
Year of Probation, show any Dislike, she is at Liberty to come again
into the World: But if aw'd by Fear (as too often is the Case) or won by
Expectation, or present real Inclination, she makes choice of the Nun's
Weeds, she is immediately invested, and must never expect to appear
again in the World out of the Walls of the Nunnery. The young Lady I
thus saw invested was very beautiful, and sang the best of any in the
Nunnery.
There are in the Town three Nunneries, and a Convent to every one of
them; _viz_. one of _Jesuits_, one of _Carmelites_, and the other of
_Franciscans_. Let me not be so far mistaken to have this taken by way
of Reflection. No! Whatever some of our Rakes of the Town may assert, I
freely declare, that I never saw in any of the Nunneries (of which I
have seen many both in _Spain_ and other Parts of the World) any thing
like indecent Behaviour, that might give occasion for Satyr or
Disesteem. It is true, there may be Accidents, that may lead to a
Misinterpretation, of which I remember a very untoward Instance in
_Alicant_.
When the _English_ Forces first laid Siege to that Town, the Priests,
who were apprehensive of it, having been long since made sensible of the
profound Regard to Chastity and Modesty of us Hereticks, by the
ignominious Behaviour of certain Officers at _Rota_ and _Porta St.
Maria_, the Priests, I say, had taken care to send away privately all
the Nuns to _Majorca_. But that the Heretick Invaders might have no
Jealousy of it, the fair _Curtezans_ of the Town were admitted to supply
their Room. The Officers, both of Land and Sea, as was by the Friars
pre-imagin'd, on taking the Town and Castle, immediately repair'd to the
Grates of the Nunnery, toss'd over their Handkercheifs, Nosegays, and
other pretty Things; all which were, doubtless, very graciously received
by those imaginary Recluses. Thence came it to pass, that in the space
of a Month or less, you could hardly fall into Comany of any one of our
younger Officers, of either sort, but the Discourse, if it might
deserve the Name, was concerning these beautiful Nuns; and you wou'd
have imagin'd the Price of these Ladies as well known as that of Flesh
in their common Markets. Others, as well as my self, have often
endeavour'd to disabuse those Glorioso's, but all to little purpose,
till more sensible Tokens convinced them, that the Nuns, of whose
Favours they so much boasted, could hardly be perfect Virgins, tho' in a
Cloyster. And I am apt to think, those who would palm upon the World
like vicious Relations of Nuns and Nunneries, do it on much like
Grounds. Not that there are wanting Instances of Nunneries
disfranchis'd, and even demolish'd, upon very flagrant Accounts; but I
confine myself to _Spain_.
In this Town of _la Mancha_ the _Corrigidore_ always has his Presidence,
having sixteen others under his Jurisdiction, of which _Almanza_ is one.
They are changed every three Years, and their Offices are the Purchase
of an excessive Price; which occasions the poor People's being
extravagantly fleeced, nothing being to be sold but at the Rates they
impose; and every Thing that is sold paying the _Corrigidore_ an
Acknowledgment in specie, or an Equivalent to his liking.
While I was here, News came of the Battle of _Almanar_ and _Saragosa_;
and giving the Victory to that Side, which they espous'd (that of King
_Philip_) they made very great Rejoycings. But soon, alas, for them, was
all that Joy converted into Sorrow: The next Courier evincing, that the
Forces of King _Charles_ had been victorious in both Engagements. This
did not turn to my present Disadvantage: For Convents and Nunneries, as
well as some of those Dons, whom afore I had not stood so well with,
strove now how most to oblige me; not doubting, but if the victorious
Army should march that way, it might be in my Power to double the most
signal of their Services in my Friendship.
Soon after an Accident fell out, which had like to have been of an
unhappy Consequence to me. I was standing in Company, upon the Parade,
when a most surprizing flock of Eagles flew over our Heads, where they
hover'd for a considerable time. The Novelty struck them all with
Admiration, as well as my self. But I, less accustomed to like
Spectacles, innocent saying, that in my Opinion, it could not bode any
good to King _Philip_, because the Eagle compos'd the Arms of
_Austria_; some busie Body, in hearing, went and inform'd the
_Corrigidore_ of it. Those most magisterial Wretches embrace all
Occasions of squeezing Money; and more especially from Strangers.
However finding his Expectations disappointed in me, and that I too well
knew the length of his Foot, to let my Money run freely; he sent me next
Day to _Alercon_; but the Governor of that Place having had before
Intelligence, that the _English_ Army was advancing that way, refus'd to
receive me, so I return'd as I went; only the Gentlemen of the Place, as
they had condol'd the first, congratulated the last; for that
_Corrigidore_ stood but very indifferently in their Affections. However,
it was a warning to me ever after, how I made use of _English_ Freedom
in a _Spanish_ Territory.
As I had attain'd the Acquaintance of most of the Clergy, and Religious
of the Place; so particularly I had my aim in obtaining that of the
Provincial of the _Carmelites_. His Convent, tho' small, was exceeding
neat; but what to me was much more agreeable, There were very large
Gardens belonging to it, which often furnished me with Sallading and
Fruit, and much oftner with Walks of Refreshment, the most satisfactory
Amusement in this warm Climate. This Acquaintance with the Provincial
was by a little Incident soon advanced into a Friendship; which was
thus: I was one Day walking, as I us'd to do, in the long Gallery of the
Convent, when observing the Images of the Virgin _Mary_, of which there
was one at each end; I took notice that one had an Inscription under it,
which was this, _Ecce, Virgo peperit filium_: but the other had no
Inscription at all; upon which, I took out my Pencil, and wrote
underneath, this Line:
_Sponsa Dei, patrisque parens, & filia filii_.
The Friars, who at a little distance had observed me, as soon as I was
gone, came up and read what I had writ; reporting which to the
Provincial, he order'd them to be writ over in Letters of Gold, and
plac'd just as I had put 'em; saying, doubtless, such a fine Line you'd
proceed from nothing less than Inspiration. This secur'd me ever after
his and their Esteem; the least advantage of which, was a full Liberty
of their Garden for all manner of Fruit, Sallading, or whatever I
pleased: And as I said before, the Gardens were too fine not to render
such a Freedom acceptable.
They often want Rain in this Country: To supply the Defect of which, I
observed in this Garden, as well as others, an Invention not unuseful.
There is a Well in the Middle of the Garden, and over that a Wheel with
many Pitchers, or Buckets, one under another, which Wheel being turned
round by an Ass, the Pitchers scoop up the Water on one Side, and throw
it out on the other into a Trough, that by little Channels conveys it,
as the Gardiner directs, into every part of the Garden. By this Means
their Flowers and their Sallading are continually refresh'd, and
preserved from the otherwise over-parching Beams of the Sun.
The Inquisition, in almost every Town in _Spain_ (and more especially,
if of any great Account) has its Spies, or Informers, for treacherous
Intelligence. These make it their Business to ensnare the simple and
unguarded; and are more to be avoided by the Stranger, than the Rattle
Snake. Nature have appointed no such happy Tokens in the former to
foreshew the Danger. I had Reason to believe, that one of those Vermin
once made his Attack upon me in this place: And as they are very rarely,
if ever known to the Natives themselves, I being a Stranger, may be
allowed to make a guess by Circumstances.
I was walking by my self, when a Person, wholly unknown to me, giving me
the civil Salute of the Day, endeavour'd to draw me into Conversation.
After Questions had passed on general Heads, the fellow ensnaringly
asked me, how it came to pass, that I show'd so little Respect to the
Image of the crucify'd Jesus, as I pass'd by it in such a Street, naming
it? I made Answer, that I had, or ought to have him always in my Heart
crucified. To that he made no Reply: But proceeding in his
Interrogatories, question'd me next, whether I believ'd a Purgatory? I
evaded the Question, as I took it to be ensnaring; and only told him,
that I should be willing to hear him offer any Thing that might convince
me of the Truth, or Probability of it. Truth? He reply'd in a Heat:
There never yet was Man so Holy as to enter Heaven without first passing
through Purgatory. In my Opinion, said I, there will be no Difficulty in
convincing a reasonable Man to the contrary. What mean you by that,
cry'd the Spy? I mean, said I, that I can name one, and a great Sinner
too, who went into Bliss without any Visit to Purgatory. Name him, if
you can, reply'd my Querist. What think you of the Thief upon the Cross,
said I? to whom our dying Saviour said, _Hodie eris mecum in Paradiso_.
At which being silenced tho' not convicted, he turned from me in a
violent Rage, and left me to my self.
What increas'd my first Suspicion of him was, that a very short time
after, my Friend the Provincial sent to speak with me; and repeating all
Passages between the holy Spy and me, assur'd me that he had been forc'd
to argue in my Favour, and tell him that I had said nothing but well:
_For_ says he, _all ought to have the Holy Jesus crucified in their
Hearts_.
"Nevertheless," continu'd he, "it is a commendable and good Thing to
have him represented in the high Ways: For, suppose," said he, "a Man
was going upon some base or profligate Design, the very Sight of a
cruficied Saviour may happen to subvert his Resolution, and deter him
from committing Theft, Murder, or any other of the deadly Sins." And
thus ended that Conference.
I remember upon some other occasional Conversation after, the Provincial
told me, that in the _Carmelite_ Nunnery next to his Convent, and under
his Care, there was a Nun, that was Daughter to _Don Juan_ of _Austria_;
if so, her Age must render her venerable, as her Quality.
Taking notice one Day, that all the People of the Place fetch'd their
Water from a Well without the Town, altho' they had many seemingly as
good within; I spoke to _Don Felix_ of it, who gave me, under the Seal
of Secrecy, this Reason for it:
"When the Seat of the War," said he, "lay in these Parts, the _French_
Train of Artillery was commonly quarter'd in this Place; the Officers
and Soldiers of which were so very rampant and rude, in attempting to
debauch our Women, that there is not a Well within the Town, which has
not some _French_ Mens Bones at the bottom of it; therefore the Natives,
who are sensible of it, choose rather to go farther a field."
By this Well there runs a little Rivulet, which gives head to that
famous River call'd the _Guadiana_; which running for some Leagues under
Ground, affords a pretence for the Natives to boast of a Bridge on which
they feed many Thousands of Sheep. When it rises again, it is a fine
large River, and after a Currency of many Leagues, empties it self into
the _Atlantick_ Ocean.
As to military Affairs, _Almanar_ and _Saragosa_ were Victories so
compleat, that no Body made the least doubt of their settling the Crown
of _Spain_ upon the Head of _Charles_ the Third, without a Rival. This
was not barely the Opinion of his Friends, but his very Enemies resign'd
all Hope or Expectation in favour of King _Philip_. The _Castilians_,
his most faithful Friends, entertain'd no other Imagination; for after
they had advis'd, and prevail'd that the Queen with the Prince of
_Asturias_ should be sent to _Victoria_; under the same Despondency, and
a full Dispiritedness, they gave him so little Encouragement to stay in
_Madrid_, that he immediately quitted the Place, with a Resolution to
retire into his Grandfather's Dominions, the Place of his Nativity.
In his way to which, even on the last Day's Journey, it was his great
good Fortune to meet the Duke of _Vendome_, with some few Troops, which
his Grandfather _Lewis_ XIV. of _France_ had order'd to his Succour,
under that Duke's Command. The Duke was grievously affected at such an
unexpected Catastrophe; nevertheless, he left nothing unsaid or undone,
that might induce that Prince to turn back; and at length prevailing,
after a little Rest, and a great deal of Patience, by the Coming in of
his scatter'd Troops, and some few he could raise, together with those
the Duke brought with him, he once more saw himself at the Head of
twenty thousand Men.
While Things were in this Manner, under Motion in King _Philip's_
Favour, _Charles_ the third, with his victorious Army, advances forward,
and enters into _Madrid_, of which he made General _Stanhope_ Governor.
And even here the _Castilians_ gave full Proof of their Fidelity to
their Prince; even at the Time when, in their Opinion, his Affairs were
past all Hopes of Retrieve, they themselves having, by their Advice,
contributed to his Retreat. Instead of prudential Acclamations
therefore, such as might have answered the Expectations of a victorious
Prince, now entering into their Capital, their Streets were all in a
profound Silence, their Balconies unadorn'd with costly Carpets, as was
customary on like Occasions; and scarce an Inhabitant to be seen in
either Shop or Window.
This doubtless was no little Mortification to a conquering Prince;
however his Generals were wife enough to keep him from shewing any other
Tokens of Resentment, than marching through the City with Unconcern, and
taking up his Quarters at _Villa-verda_, about a League from it.
Nevertheless King _Charles_ visited, in his March, the Chapel of the
Lady _de Atocha_, where finding several _English_ Colours and Standards,
taken in the Battle of _Almanza_, there hung up; he ordered 'em to be
taken down, and restor'd 'em to the _English_ General.
It was the current Opinion then, and almost universal Consent has since
confirm'd it, that the falsest Step in that whole War was this
Advancement of King _Charles_ to _Madrid_. After those two remarkable
Victories at _Almanar_ and _Saragosa_, had he directed his March to
_Pampeluna_, and obtain'd Possession of that Place, or some other near
it, he had not only stopt all Succours from coming out of _France_, but
he would, in a great Measure, have prevented the gathering together of
any of the routed and dispers'd Forces of King _Philip_: And it was the
general Notion of the _Spaniards_, I convers'd with while at _Madrid_,
that had King _Philip_ once again set his Foot upon _French_ Land,
_Spain_ would never have been brought to have re-acknowledged him.
King _Charles_ with his Army having stay'd some Time about _Madrid_, and
seeing his Expectations of the _Castilians_ joining him not at all
answered, at last resolved to decamp, and return to _Saragosa_:
Accordingly with a very few Troops that Prince advanced thither; while
the main Body, under the Command of the Generals _Stanhope_ and
_Staremberg_, passing under the very Walls of _Madrid_, held on their
March towards _Aragon_.
After about three Days' March, General _Stanhope_ took up his Quarters
at _Breuhiga_, a small Town half wall'd; General _Staremberg_ marching
three Leagues farther, to _Cisuentes_. This choice of Situation of the
two several Armies not a little puzzled the Politicians of those Times,
who could very indifferently account for the _English_ General's lying
expos'd in an open Town, with his few _English_ Forces, of which General
_Harvey's_ Regiment of fine Horse might be deem'd the Main; and General
_Staremberg_ encamping three Leagues farther off the Enemy. But to see
the Vicissitudes of Fortune, to which the Actions of the bravest, by an
untoward Sort of Fatality, are often forced to contribute! None, who had
been Eye-witnesses of the Bravery of either of those Generals at the
Battles of _Almanar_ and _Saragosa_, could find Room to call in question
either their Conduct or their Courage; and yet in this March, and this
Encampment will appear a visible ill Consequence to the Affairs of the
Interest they fought for.
The Duke of _Vendome_ having increas'd the Forces which he brought from
_France_, to upwards of twenty thousand Men, marches by _Madrid_
directly for _Breuhiga_, where his Intelligence inform'd him General
_Stanhope_ lay, and that so secretly as well as swiftly, that that
General knew nothing of it, nor could be persuaded to believe it, till
the very Moment their Bullets from the Enemy's Cannon convinc'd him of
the Truth. _Breuhiga_, I have said, was wall'd only on one Side, and yet
on that very side the Enemy made their Attack. But what could a Handful
do against a Force so much superior, though they had not been in want of
both Powder and Ball; and in want of these were forc'd to make use of
Stones against all Sorts of Ammunition, which the Enemy ply'd them with?
The Consequence answered the Deficiency; they were all made Prisoners of
War, and _Harvey_'s Regiment of Horse among the rest; which, to augment
their Calamity, was immediately remounted by the Enemy, and march'd
along with their Army to attack General _Staremberg_.
That General had heard somewhat of the March of _Vendome_; and waited
with some Impatience to have the Confirmation of it from General
_Stanhope_, who lay between, and whom he lay under an Expectation of
being joined with: However he thought it not improper to make some
little Advance towards him; and accordingly breaking up from his Camp at
_Cisuentes_, he came back to _Villa viciosa_, a little Town between
_Cisuentes_ and _Breuhiga_; there he found _Vendome_ ready to attack
him, before he could well be prepared for him, but no _English_ to join
him, as he had expected; nevertheless, the Battle was hot, and
obstinately fought; although _Staremberg_ had visibly the Advantage,
having beat the Enemy at least a League from their Cannon; at which Time
hearing of the Misfortune of _Breuhiga_, and finding himself thereby
frustrated of those expected Succours to support him, he made a handsome
Retreat to _Barcelona_, which in common Calculation is about one
hundred Leagues, without any Disturbance of an Enemy that seem'd glad to
be rid of him. Nevertheless his Baggage having fallen into the Hands of
the Enemy, at the Beginning of the Fight, King _Philip_ and the Duke of
_Vendome_ generously returned it unopen'd, and untouched, in
acknowledgement of his brave Behaviour.