THE THEATRES.
Besides the Assembly Rooms at the Castle Tavern and the Old Ship Hotel,
and the Libraries, the Theatre has been, and still is, a place of
fashionable resort in Brighton. The remnant of the first Theatre ever
erected in the town has recently been restored to public notice in
consequence of the premises undergoing alterations in the process of
converting them into ale and porter stores, by Messrs. Charlton and Co.
They are situated in North Street, and are approached by a doorway
between the shops of Messrs. Cunditt, jewellers, and Mr. Pritchard,
confectioner. To the old inhabitants they are better known as Wallis's
wine and spirit vaults; and at a recent date they were occupied by Mr.
Cordy, the son-in-law and successor of Mr. Wallis. In 1789 they were
used as the printing office of Messrs. William and Arthur Lee, who in a
few years removed their establishment to Lewes, and then Mr. Wallis took
possession of them.
In this building David Garrick displayed his inimitable histrionic
talent. The main structure and its original front have long since passed
away: but the stage yet remains entire, with its several traps and
appointments. An excellent portrait of Garrick till lately graced the
wall, but the modern destroyer of many a work of art, whitewash, has
entirely obliterated every feature of it.
Annexed is a copy of the "Bill of the Play," in the possession of Mr.
Cunditt, referring to this Theatre:--
Theatre, North-Street, Brighthelmston,
On WEDNESDAY, October 5, 1785, will be presented,
A COMEDY, called THE
SUSPICIOUS HUSBAND.
_Ranger_, by Mr. GRAHAM, Jun.
_Frankly_, by Mr. WEWITZER.
_Bellamy_, by Mr. WILLIAMS.
_Jack Meggott_, by Mr. FROST.
_Tester_, by Mr. FOLLETT,
Jun.
_Buckle_, by Mr. PHILLIPS.
_Simon_, by Mr. DANIELL.
And Mr. by Mr. LESTRANGE.
_Strickland_,
Mrs. _Strickland_, by Mrs. WALCOT.
_Jacintha_, by Mrs. BOLTON.
_Lucetta_, by Mrs. EDGAR.
_Millener_, by Miss STEVENSON.
And _Clarinda_, by Mrs. ELLIOTT.
(From the Theatre Royal, Dublin, Being her First Appearance on this
Stage.)
Dancing, between the Acts, by _Master_ and _Miss_ Michel.
To which will be added a FARCE, called,
WHO'S THE DUPE?
_Old Doiley_, by Mr. FOLLET.
_Sandford_, by Mr. FROST.
_Granger_, by Mr. WILLIAMS.
And _Gradus_, by Mr. GRAHAM, Jun.
_Miss Doiley_, by Mrs. BOLTON.
_Charlotte_, by Miss EDGAR.
TICKETS and PLACES for the BOXES to be taken of Mr. _Baily_, at the
_Theatre_.
_Doors to be opened at_ SIX, _and to begin exactly at_ SEVEN.
The Tragedy of RICHARD III, and the New Pantomime of ROBINSON CRUSOE,
or, HARLEQUIN FRIDAY, (as performed for _Eighty Nights_, at the
Theatre Royal, Drury Lane) is obliged to be postponed till _Friday_
Evening, on account of the machinery not being quite ready.
The following are extracts from the Diary of Mr. Bew:--
1778.--Tuesday, September 1.--_The Settle_.--STEINE.--Mr. Griffith, of
Drury Lane playhouse, with much civility, conducts me to the Theatre,
in North Street, in which _company_ he is _concerned_, am fearful the
manager is most _concerned_, at--the badness of the season, for there
seems a _plentiful lack_ of company. But, not to play too much upon
words, it is a pretty building, something larger than that at
Richmond, and seems well adapted to its intended uses.
Friday, 4.--_At the Theatre_.--In the evening went to Griffith's
benefit, the _West Indian_, by desire of Lady Mills; much, but
pleasingly disappointed, because the company performed a great deal
better than from information I had been taught to expect; the ladies
also were, what all stage-ladies not always are,--extremely decent.
Previous to 1774 there was no other temple dedicated to Thalia and
Melpomene, than a barn. The first theatre was built by the late Mr.
Samuel Paine, and let in 1774, to Mr. Roger Johnstone, formerly the
property-man at Covent Garden Theatre, who, having continued it for three
years only, it was then leased to the late Mr. Fox, of Covent Garden
Theatre also, in 1777, for the term of fifteen years, at the annual rent
of sixty guineas.
It was understood, however, between the lessor and the lessee, that the
former, in addition, was to have the _net receipts_ of the house on one
night, to be called his benefit night, clear of all expenses, in every
succeeding year; and that _his family_ should be free of the theatre, or
possess the right of witnessing the performances there, at all times,
without being liable to any charge as the consequence of their visits.
The latter stipulation was correctly introduced into the covenants of the
lease, but not so the former, _net profits_ being there stipulated
instead of _net receipts_; the issue of which was, that Mr. Paine was
called on to defray the expenses of his first benefit night, contrary to
what had previously been understood, and orally agreed upon, between him
and Mr. Fox.
This circumstance had nearly given rise to an unpleasant litigation
between the parties; in which Mr. Paine, in all probability, would have
been the sufferer, for the want of a document to establish the propriety
of his claim; but such a mortification and injury he preserved himself
from, by having recourse to the following expedient:--
The right of gratuitous admission to the theatre, to himself and family,
as above specified, was undisputed; and as no place in the house was
stipulated as the only part they should be permitted to enter in their
visits, he determined to avail himself of his privilege to the full
extent of its bearing. He, therefore, collected his family together, and
with them entered the theatre for a succession of nights, resolutely
occupying the best seats in the boxes, to the exclusion of other and more
profitable applicants.
The manager, thus opposed, and law and equity pronounced by the public as
both in favour of Mr. Paine, consented to ratify his first agreement, and
the system of warfare adopted to harass and punish him, ceased. Before
the expiration of the fifteen years' lease the house was found inadequate
to the accommodation of the increased population of the town, and a new
one was erected in Duke Street. The license for the theatre was yearly
obtained from the magistrates at the Quarter Sessions at Lewes; and Mr.
Fox, on finishing the house in Duke Street, applied for the removal of
the license to that place. His application was granted, no opposition
being offered to the measure by Mr. Paine.
The latter, however, discovered the error of his non-resistance before
the next application for the license became requisite, when his
opposition to it was a matter of course; but which proved ineffectual
from the delay, and the license was granted to the same house, on which,
without opposition, it had been bestowed the year before. The family of
Paine were, therefore, pecuniary sufferers of several hundred pounds per
annum by this event, and for which the only compensation ever received
fell short of one hundred and twenty pounds, or guineas.
On the death of Mr. Fox, the Duke Street Theatre was purchased by H.
Cobb, Esq., of Clement's Inn, who built the present house in the New
Road, 1807, and removed the license thereto, having first satisfied the
ground-landlord in respect to the measure.
The building had a plain front of wood, drawn out to imitate blocks of
stone, unpierced with windows, and was approached by a semi-circular
carriage and foot-way from the street, as it was set back from the main
road to nearly the present frontage of Mr. Patching's house, on the site
of which the Theatre then stood. The projecting entrance to the Boxes,
in the centre of the front, was by a Grecian portico supported by four
Tuscan pillars, from which branched brackets supporting two round shaped
oil lamps. The buildings abutting east and west had also similar lamps.
The Pit and Gallery entrances were on the east side, approached by an
external passage, that had a door, over which was painted "Pit and Gal."
The stage door was a little to the west of the principal entrance, where
the word "Boxes" was conspicuously painted. Five posts divided the
footway on each side of the portico. A print of the Theatre was
published in London, April 1st, 1804, by T. Woodfall, Villiers' Street,
Strand, and several figures therein exhibit the peculiar fashion of the
day in dress. The license to this Theatre Royal was granted by a special
Act of Parliament, which passed in the year 1788.
An anecdote connected with this Theatre, and noted in "Brighton Past and
Present," by Mrs. Merrifield, is worthy of quotation:--"It was during the
time that Fox was manager that the celebrated Mrs. Jordan trod these
boards as an actress. A friend of mine, who sometimes visited the green
room, one day found her in great distress, threatened by a Sheriff's
Officer, on account of the debt of an extravagant brother. Mrs. Jordan
solicited my friend to become surety for her. 'When I went into the
room,' said my friend, 'I thought her one of the plainest little women I
had ever seen, but I had not been in her company half-an-hour before I
thought her charming.' It is almost unnecessary to say that he complied
with her request, and relieved this fascinating actress from her
embarassment; nor had he cause to repent of his goodnature, for Mrs.
Jordan paid the debt as soon as she was able, and thus released him from
his engagement."
Annexed is a copy of a bill of the performance at this theatre:
For the Benefit of
Mr. PALMER, JUN.,
The last night but Two of performing this Season.
* * * * *
Theatre, Brighton,
On WEDNESDAY, October 15th, 1794, will be presented, the popular play
of
THE JEW.
_Sheva_ (for that night only,) by Mr. BANNISTER, jun.
From the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane.
_Sir Stephen Bertram_ by Mr. DORMER.
_Charles Ratcliffe_ by Mr. PALMER, jun.
_Jabel_ by Mr. SIMPSON.
_Frederick_ by Mr. PALMER.
From the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane,--positively the last time
of his performing here this Season.
_Eliza_ by Mrs. SIMPSON.
(End of the Play.)
A COMIC MEDLEY, by Mr. EDWIN.
After which, the Farce of
THE VILLAGE LAWYER.
_Sheepface_ (for that night by Mr. PARSONS.
only,)
From the Theatre Royal, Drury Lane.
_Snarl_ by Mr. SIMPSON.
_Scout_ by Mr. BANNISTER, jun.
The whole to conclude with the favourite Entertainment of
THE LYAR.
_Young Wilding_ by Mr. PALMER.
_Papillion_ by Mr. PALMER, jun.
_Miss Grantham_ by Mrs. PALMER, jun.
Being her first appearance.
*** The Nobility, Gentry, and Public are respectfully informed that, on
account of the great call for places, part of the PIT will (for that
night) be laid into the Boxes.
Tickets to be had, and places for the Boxes taken, of Mr. PALMER, jun.,
No. 11, Russell Street, and at the Theatre, from Ten till Three o'clock.
The returns for the house on the occasion were:--
. s. d.
Six Box Tickets 1 4 0
Fifteen Pit ditto 1 10 0
Two Gallery ditto 2 0
Taken at doors 7 8 0
Total 10 4 0
The "Brighton New Guide," 1800, published by Fisher, Old Steine, says:
"The scenes are painted by Mr. Carver, of Covent-Garden Theatre, and they
do honour to the abilities of that ingenious artist; and if the abilities
of the actors are not sufficiently powerful to excite the enthusiasm of
applause, they are not so contemptible as to create disgust. Candour
must acknowledge, that the theatrical business at Brighthelmston is
conducted with great regularity, and that if perfection is not reached,
mediocrity is surpassed."
In 1672, a tax on plays was proposed; but the court party objected to it.
They said the players were the King's servants, and administered to his
pleasures. Sir John Coventry pleasantly asked, "Whether the King's
pleasures lay among the male or the female actors?" Charles, who,
besides his other mistresses, entertained two actresses, Mrs. Davis and
Nell Gwynne, was hurt by this sarcasm, and took an unworthy revenge.
Some of his guards attacked Coventry, and slit his nose. The Commons
expressed their indignation, by passing what is called the Coventry Act,
by which maiming and deforming were made capital crimes, and those
persons who had assaulted Coventry were rendered incapable of receiving
the King's pardon.
In July, 1805, when the Prince of Wales bestowed his patronage upon the
Duke Street Theatre, and first attached to it the gracious adjective,
"Royal," great improvements were effected in the house, those in his
Royal Highness's box particularly so: blue panels, with sparkling gold
stars, on a dark ground, and ornamented with festoons of roses, superbly
distinguished it; a crimson curtain of velvet depending from the ceiling
also heightened the effect, and gave an indescribable appearance of
grandeur to the whole. The box was also carpeted throughout, and
handsome painted chairs with cushions in lieu of fixed seats, made part
of its furniture.
On the 13th of August, 1805, a piece was produced in honour of the
birthday of the Prince of Wales, and was called _The Twelfth of August_.
The plot of the piece was: "Sofa Hazleby," the daughter of an opulent
farmer, a resident of Brighton, who has numerous suitors, has promised to
become the bride of him who can give the best solution to a question
which she will submit to their consideration on the Green, on the Twelfth
of August; and the reason she assigns for choosing that day for a
decision so momentous to her, is because it gave birth to England's
Heir,--a Prince whose suavity of manners, benevolence of heart, and mental
endowments have rendered him the pride of his country and the admiration
of Europe. "That auspicious morn," she continues, "could but appear to
me as most grateful and best adapted to my purpose, in which every honest
countenance I might gaze at should be brightened with exulting
smiles."--The preceding part of the drama being over, in which her
eccentric suitors afforded much mirth to the audience, the final scene
presents a supposed view of the South Downs, and the entrance of
Brighton, the latter brilliantly illuminated, the initials P. W., the
feathers, and a blazing star, being appropriately conspicuous.
In 1799, Mr. Alexander Archer was manager of the Duke Street Theatre.
Upon stripping the paper from the walls of 34, Bond Street, on the 20th
of May, in the present year, to effect some alterations, a relic in the
character of a "play bill," was brought to light. It is thus worded:
"Engagement of Mr. Quick. Doors open at half-past six. Begin precisely
at 7 o'clock. Mr. Quick's fifth night. Theatre Brighthelmston. On
Tuesday, July 13th, 1802, will be performed the admired comedy of _She
Stoops to Conquer_; the part of 'Tony Lumpkin,' by Mr. Quick. After
which will be added _St. Patrick's-Day_, _or the Scheming Lieutenant_.
Lee, Printer, Brighton." The house had just been vacated by the
descendants of Johnson, who for many years was the bill-sticker of the
town. The first stone of the present Theatre was laid on the 24th of
September, 1806, by Mr. Brunton, senr.; and the building was opened on
Saturday, the 6th of June, 1807, with the tragedy of _Hamlet_, when Mr.
and Mrs. Charles Kemble represented the Prince and Ophelia.
The _Brighton Ambulator_--a publication almost extinct,--thus speaks of the
present theatre as it was when opened by the first lessee, Mr. Trotter:--
THE THEATRE.
This place of public amusement is situated in the New Road, leading
into North Street. It is a very handsome structure, having a
colonnade, which runs along its whole front, supported by neat stone
pillars. The entrance into the Boxes is in the centre; and that to
the Pit is on the right, and the Gallery on the left of the building.
The interior has two tier of boxes. The Prince Regent's box is on
the left of the stage, divided from the other boxes by an iron
lattice work, gilded, which gives it a pleasing and private
appearance. The pit and gallery are well constructed for the
audience, particularly the latter, which has a prominent view of the
stage.
The house is illuminated by nine cut-glass chandeliers, and a range
of patent lamps at the foot of the stage. The stage is exceedingly
convenient, and has a length proportioned to the structure. The
whole is fitted up with a tasteful elegance, and we must acknowledge,
that it reflects honour on the discriminate judgment of Mr. Trotter,
the manager.
This account of the theatre describes it as it was more than half a
century since; as of late years it has been, externally and internally,
greatly modernized: although the chief lighting attraction in its
transition from oil and wax to gas, a noble and well supplied chandelier,
which was lowered and raised at pleasure over the centre of the pit, has
long since been removed, the light from it detracting from the scenic
effect, and the great heat which it disseminated militating against the
comfort of the audience, especially the "gods."
The present Owner of the property is George Cobb, Esq., an Alderman of
the Borough of Brighton, who, a few years since, purchased of the
executors of the late Sir Thomas Clarges the moiety which that baronet
held.
Sir Thomas, in his latter days, was what is modernly termed, a little
"cracky" in the cranium. Just about the period of the murder of the
Italian boy, by Bishop and Williams, when pitch plasters were in vogue,
and were as much terrors in the public mind as garottings now are, Sir
Thomas had a pony which he imagined was unwell, and beyond the aid of
veterinary skill. He therefore, with the manual service of his groom,
undertook to cure it himself, and thus proceeded:--He procured a sheet of
canvass, which he spread with a composition of pitch, tar, and tallow,
and in this cere-cloth he encased the body of the animal, and twice
daily, in the midst of Summer, took it, with merely a horse-cloth over
it, on the Race-hill and submitted it to severe exercise, the groom
walking it briskly, and himself riding beside it on horseback for two
hours at a stretch. His intention was to pursue this course till all the
virtue in the composition would become absorbed by the afflicted system
of the animal, when its cure would be effected and the canvass would of
its own accord drop off. The severity, however, of the process, was too
much for the poor creature; for having borne the punishment somewhat more
than a week, one morning, when Sir Thomas and his man went to the stable
in Rock Mews, where a box had been specially fitted up, the
straight-jacketed small edition of a horse was a stiffened corpse.
Immediately previous to her retirement from the stage, Mrs. Siddons
filled an engagement here for three nights, namely, Tuesday, August 8th,
1809, as "Mrs. Beverley" in _The Gamester_, {214} Tuesday, 15th, as "Lady
Macbeth," and on Thursday, 18th, as "Isabella," in the tragedy of that
name. The receipts of the house for the 15th, amounted to 172 16s, a
sum by far exceeding that which the Theatre could boast of having held on
any night previous. On August 29th, she also appeared as "Margaret of
Anjou," in the tragedy of _Earl of Warwick_, for the benefit of Mr.
Murray, on which occasion the receipts amounted to 150 5s; and on
September 12th, as "Lady Macbeth," for the benefit of Mr. Cresswell. On
the last occasion Mr. Charles Kemble, for the first time on any stage,
made his appearance as "Macbeth." Every actor of celebrity has trodden
the boards of the Brighton Theatre, which has been the nursery for
supplying many first-rate performers to the patent houses of the
Metropolis. At a Masquerade which took place here, October 8th, 1812, a
great disturbance arose in consequence of Theodore Hook and his friends
appearing unmasked.
The several lessees have been Mr. Trotter, Mr. Grove, Mr. Brunton,
sen.,--father of the late Dowager Countess of Craven, who at the time of
her marriage was acting on the stage of this Theatre, in her father's
company,--Messrs. Jonas and Penley, Mr. (Romeo) Coates, Mr. John Brunton,
jun., Mr. (Jerry) Russell,--when the house was open only on Mondays,
Wednesdays, and Fridays,--Messrs. Bew and Vining, Mr. Charles Hill,
Messrs. Walton and Holmes,--a commonwealth,--Messrs. Saville and Harroway,
Mr. Hooper, Mr. Poole, Captain Belcour, Mr. H. Farren, and the present
respected lessee, Mr. H. Nye Chart. Formerly, the season extended from
July to October; now the house usually continues open from the latter end
of July until the beginning of March.
Upon the completion of the present Theatre in the New Road, a permanent
building for a Circus was erected on the Grand Parade, between Carlton
Street and the weigh-bridge, which, for obtaining the weight of the loads
in the waggons and carts that traversed the turnpike road to Lewes, stood
at the spot that forms the bottom of Sussex Street. It was completed by
Messrs. Kendall and Co., and opened in August, 1808. The building had a
frontage of neat design, in width one hundred feet, which was also its
depth, that extended into Circus Street. A wing to the north of the
Circus was appropriated for a billiard lounge, confectionary, &c.; and
the corresponding wing to the south for a coffee-house and hotel. The
representation of a prancing horse surmounted the centre of the
structure.
The only incident worthy of record which took place in this building
during the few years that it was devoted to equestrian exhibitions, was
an accident which befel the daughter of the lessee, Mr. Saunders, on the
evening of Monday, August 28th, 1809, on the occasion of a bespeak of the
Duke of Marlborough, when, while riding round the ring, which was
thirty-six feet in diameter, Miss Saunders lost her equilibrium and fell.
She was borne away insensible, amidst the intense anxiety of a most
fashionable audience. The announcement, however, of the Acting Manager,
Mr. Clark, that she had received but a slight injury, gave a salutary
relief to all present. At her benefit, which took place on the previous
Thursday, under the patronage of Lord and Lady Somerset, the house was
crowded in every part.
In 1812 the Circus closed from want of support, and for a few years the
premises were occupied as a Bazaar, a speculation which was quite a
failure, although every inducement in the way of loos, lotteries, and
lucky-bags, was introduced, with occasional displays of fireworks and the
ascents of fire-balloons from the parade ground opposite, now the extreme
north Enclosure. At that period, and for some years afterwards, the land
northward from the Pavilion boundary wall to the Level was enclosed with
posts and rails in areas like the present, and formed a public promenade,
and the parade ground of the military. How it became enclosed with iron
railings and planted with trees and flowers, to the exclusion of the
inhabitants, has never been satisfactorily explained. Occasionally
attempts have been made to investigate the business; but inasmuch as
money is required for such a purpose, and the majority of the ratepayers
are contented with the excellent manner the Enclosures are conducted,
they allow the Trustees who have possessed themselves of the right, to
continue in undisturbed possession.
From time to time since the demolition of the Grand Parade Circus,
various troupes of equestrians have visited Brighton. Saunders's was the
first, his exhibition, which took place on the present site of St.
George's Place, being termed a Mountebank performance, and consisting,
besides feats of horsemanship, of such tricks as are witnessed in shows
at fairs and races. On Thursday evening, June 21st, 1821, from six to
eight thousand persons assembled to witness the equestrian exploits, &c.,
of this company. In the midst of the amusements one of the scaffoldings,
on which were nearly a hundred persons,--men, women, and children,--gave
way, and the whole fell to the ground, a depth of about four or five
feet. Many persons received severe bruises, and Mr. Siller, of His
Majesty's private band, had his leg broken in two places. The chief prop
of the scaffolding was some slight paling, the yielding of which to the
great pressure above occasioned the accident, which, under the
circumstances, might have produced far more serious results, as many
persons were immediately under it at the moment. Cook and
Bridges--familiarly known to the juveniles of the time as "Cook and
Breeches,"--afterwards came and took up their position on the Level; and
then followed Ryan, Cooke, Batty, Tournaire, &c., in more or less
permanent buildings; followed by the flying visits of troupes in mammoth
tents. The last erection for the exhibition of horsemanship, and that
still in existence, is the affair in Sussex Street, the hitherto success
of which is evidence that the intelligent portion of the community have
not failed to appreciate the talent which has been produced.
CHAPTER XXV.
BRIGHTON FROM ITS SIMPLICITY TO ITS PRESENT RENOWN.
The primitive state of Brighthelmston, both as respects the condition and
habits of the inhabitants and the position and style of the habitations,
must to a considerable extent be left to conjecture, as there is no doubt
the great changes which have taken place in and about the town to give it
the importance which it at present possesses as England's "Queen of
Watering Places," have all been effected within the last 150 years.
An engraving in "The Antiquities of England and Wales," published in
1775, {218} showing the ruins of the Blockhouse at that period, gives a
representation of the houses on the Cliff at the spot whereon now stand
the Old Ship Hotel and the premises adjacent. The south end of
Black-lion Street is very conspicuous, the corner houses consisting only
of dwellings one story in height, of a cottage or hovel-like appearance,
very singular in architectural design when compared with the present
noble block of buildings of Messrs. Hedges and Butler, the wine
merchants, on the east side.
The author of a "Tour through Great Britain," date, 1724, says:--"Bright
Helmston, commonly called Bredhemston, is a poor fishing town, old built,
and on the very edge of the sea. The fishermen have large barks, in
which they go away to Yarmouth, on the coast of Norfolk, to the fishing
fair there, and hire themselves for the season to catch herrings for the
merchants; and they tell us that these make a very good business of it.
The sea is very unkind to this town, and has, by its continued
encroachments, so gained upon it that in a little time more they might
reasonably expect it would eat up the whole town, above one hundred
houses having been devoured by the water in a few years past; and they
are now obliged to get a brief granted them to beg money all over
England, to raise banks against the water; the expense of which, the
brief expressly says, will be eight thousand pounds; which, if one were
to look on the town, would seem to be more than all the houses in it are
worth."
The Rev. William Clarke, Rector of Buxted, and grandfather of the
celebrated traveller, thus writes to his friend:--
Brighthelmston, July 22, 1736.
Dear Bowyer,
We are now sunning ourselves upon the beach at Brighthelmston, and
observing what a tempting figure this Island made formerly in the
eyes of those gentlemen who were pleased to civilize and subdue it.
Such a tract of sea; such regions of corn; and such an extent of fine
carpet, that gives your eye the command of it all. But then the
mischief is, that we have little conversation besides the _clamor
nauticus_, which is here a sort of treble to the plashing of the
waves against the cliffs. My morning business is bathing in the sea,
and then buying fish; the evening is riding out for air, viewing the
remains of old Saxon camps, and counting the ships in the road, and
the boats that are trawling. Sometimes we give the imagination leave
to expatiate a little;--fancy that you are coming down, and that we
intend next week to dine one day in Dieppe, in Normandy; the price is
already fixed, and the wine and lodgings there tolerably good. But
though we build these castles in the air, I assure you that we live
here _almost underground_. I fancy the architects here usually take
the altitude of the inhabitants, and lose not an inch between the
head and the ceiling, and then dropping a step or two below the
surface, the second story is finished something under 12 feet. I
suppose this was a necessary precaution against storms, that a man
should not be blown out of his bed into New England, Barbary, or God
knows where. But as the lodgings are _low_ they are cheap; we have
_two parlours_, _two bed chambers_, _pantry_, _&c._, for 5s per week;
and if you will really come down you need not fear a bed of the
proper dimensions. And then the coast is safe; the cannons are all
covered with rust and grass; the ships moored, and no enemy
apprehended. Come and see.
Nec tela temeres
Gallica, nec Pictum tremeres nec littore toto
Prospiceres dubiis ventura Saxona ventis.
My wife does not forget her good wishes and compliments upon this
occasion. How you would surprise all your friends in Fleet Street,
to tell them you were just come from France, with a vivacity that
everybody would believe to be just imported from thence!
In this year, 1736, the poor rates were eight pence in the pound on the
rack rent, "which was then," says Dunvan, "an intolerable burthen."
About this time visitors of distinction began annually, in Summer, as
soon as the deep roads of Sussex became passable with any degree of
convenience, to frequent the town; but lodging-houses had not then been
put in requisition, the only accommodation being a few indifferent inns;
and the principal diversions were hunting, occasional horse-racing, and
water excursions.
About the year 1750 the medical use of sea-water in scrofulous and other
glandular complaints, under the unwearied and successful attention of Dr.
Richard Russell, who removed hither from his seat at Malling, near Lewes,
established his fame and also that of the town all over the kingdom. He
may in truth be considered the founder of Brighton's greatness; and it is
much to be regretted that the inhabitants while appreciating the laudable
services and good qualities of modern Royal and Noble patrons, and
perpetuating individual virtues by works of art in marble and on canvass,
have hitherto omitted to mark their gratitude to the memory of the
learned Doctor, there being amongst the treasures of the town no memento
whatever of him. His portrait, it is true, graces the Telemachus room of
the Old Ship Hotel, but it might as well be stowed away in the ex-clock
tower of the Pavilion, so rarely have the public an opportunity of seeing
it. This hint perhaps may induce the possessor of the portrait to make a
present of it to the Corporation, who have recently received several
additions by gift to their choice collection of paintings.
The erection of lodging-houses soon became a profitable speculation in
Brighton, and that late obscure fishing village began to increase in
population and celebrity. The wonderful success of the industry and
discernment of Dr. Russell appeared by several cases of cures which he
cited in his work, "A Dissertation on the use of Sea-water;" and the most
eminent members of the faculty in England bore willing testimony to the
great acuteness and utility of his professional investigations. The
benefits which the diseased have ever since received from sea-water are,
therefore, in a great measure, to be imputed to the medical labours and
sagacity of this good man, in grateful commemoration of whom the
proprietors of a new street,--the first that was erected, composed
principally of lodging-houses for the accommodation of invalid
visitors,--named it after him, Russell Street, many of the original houses
of which that still remain, though now occupied by a different class of
persons than those for whom they were designed, show the improvement that
had then taken place in house property. The Rev. Dr. Mannington, of
Jevington, in the following epigram, simply, yet elegantly estimates the
philanthropical abilities of Dr. Russell:--
Clara per omne vum Russelli fama manebit,
Dum retinet vires unda marina suas.
Thus translated:--
Admiring ages Russell's fame shall know,
Till ocean's healing waters cease to flow.
Dr. Russell's son, William--afterwards Mr. Sergeant Kempe, on assuming the
name of his maternal grandfather,--however, who appeared to have been one
of the wits of the town at that period, by the following lines, knew the
limit of his father's skill:--
Brighthelmston was confess'd by all
T' abound with females fair;
But more so since fam'd Russell has
Prefer'd the waters there.
Then fly that dang'rous town, ye swains,
For fear ye shall endure
A pain from some bright sparkling eye,
Which Russell's skill can't cure.
Dr. Russell died in 1759, aged 72 years, and was interred in the family
vault at South Malling, on the 25th of December. He was the son of Mr.
Nathaniel Russell, a surgeon and apothecary of Lewes, and clandestinely
married the only daughter of Mr. William Kempe, of South Malling. After
his marriage he studied at the University of Leyden, and received
instruction under the learned Boerhaave. His death took place in London.
Dr. A. Relhan was his worthy successor, inasmuch as he fully developed
the causes of the salubrity of Brighton, the invaluable efficacy of
sea-bathing, and the medical virtues of the chalybeate spring, at the
Wick, now the property of Sir Francis Goldsmid. In his "Treatise on the
Salubrity of the Town and Neighbourhood," the Doctor writes:--
The town, (June, 1761,) at present consists of six principal streets,
many lanes, and some spaces surrounded with houses, called by the
inhabitants squares. {221} The great plenty of flint stones on the
shore and in the neighbouring cornfields, enabled them to build the
walls of their houses with that material, when in their most
impoverished state. At present they ornament the windows and doors
with the admirable brick which they burn for their own use. The town
improves daily, as the inhabitants, encouraged by the late great
resort of company, seem disposed to expend the whole of what they
acquire, in erecting new buildings, or improving the old ones. Here
are two public rooms, the one convenient, the other not only so, but
elegant, (the Old Ship), not excelled perhaps by any in England, that
of York excepted.
The _endemial_ or popular disorders of temperate people being the
product of air and diet, the best proof of the healthfulness of the
air of any place is deduced from the customary longevity of the
inhabitants, and the rate of the Bills of Mortality. By the poor's
rate of this parish, there are 400 families in Brighton, each of
these may be supposed to contain five souls (the common calculation
in England is six in a family), and consequently the number of
inhabitants, exclusive of those supported in the work-house, who, at
a medium, amounted to 35, may be estimated at 2,000.
In seven years, beginning with 1753, and 1752, the baptisms were 388,
and the burials 227; so that the baptisms were annually to the
deaths, nearly as five to three.
But as the dissenters are nearly a tenth of the whole, I may be
allowed to add to the number of baptisms 35 for the seven years,
which is five annually, and nearly a-tenth, and makes the whole of
the baptisms 423 to 227 burials. By this the baptisms are annually
to the deaths as 60 to 32, which is nearly two births to one death.
In London there is annually a death in every 32 persons, which is
nearly two to one in favour of Brighton.
With regard to the sea water at this place, it appears by experiments
that in Summer (weather tolerably dry) there are in every pint of it
at least five drachms and fifteen grains of defecated salt; about
five of bittern, or a decomposed earth, attracting humidity from the
air; and six grains of white calcarious earth. This proportion of
clean contents, being nearly a twenty-third of the whole, is as
great, or perhaps greater, than is to be found in the sea water of
any other port in England, and must be owing to its peculiar distance
from the rivers, it being further from such, I apprehend, than any
other sea port in England.
Dr. Coe, writing in 1766, says:--"Brighton is a small ill-built town,
situated on the sea-coast, at present greatly resorted to in the Summer
season by persons labouring under various diseases, for the benefit of
sea bathing, and drinking sea water; and by the gay and polite on account
of the company which frequent it at this season. Until within a few
years it was no better than a mere fishing town, inhabited by fishermen
and sailors; but through the recommendation of Dr. Russell, and his
writings in favour of sea water, it has become one of the principal
places in the kingdom. It contains six principal streets, five of which
are parallel with each other, and are terminated by the sea, namely, East
Street, Black-lion Street, Ship Street, Middle Street, and West Street;
and North Street runs along the other ends of the five, from the Assembly
Rooms, kept by Mr. Shergold, almost to the Church."
The Rev. William Gilpin, {222} in his "Observations on the Coasts of
Hampshire, Sussex, and Kent," made in the summer of 1774, observes:--"Soon
after, we reached Brighthelmstone, a disagreeable place. There is
scarcely an object either in it or near it of nature or of art, that
strikes the eye with any degree of beauty," and then in a somewhat
contradictory manner, adds:--"One of the most picturesque sights we met
with at Brighthelmstone, was the sailing of a fleet of mackarel-boats to
take their evening station for fishing, which they commonly continue
through the night. The sun was just setting when all appeared to be
alive. Every boat began to weigh anchor and unmoor. It was amusing to
see them under so many different forms. Some in a still calm with
flagging sails, were obliged to assist their motion with oars; others
were just getting into the breeze, which rippled the water around them,
and began gently to swell their sails; while the fleet, the water, and
the whole horizon, glowed with one rich harmonious tint from the setting
sun."
Mrs. P. Hill, in her "Apology," {223}--now a very rare work,--in 1787, five
years after the Prince of Wales first honoured the town with his
presence, complains of the "doors opening direct into the sittings
rooms," and of the "inconvenience of not being able to be 'out' to any
visitor."
Bew writes, Sunday, August 30th, 1778:--"This town is built on spots, in
patches, and for want of regularity does not appear to advantage: every
man, as to building, seems to have done what appeared right in his own
eyes. Here is no magistracy: if there is an affray, the parties must go
as far as Lewes, which is much the prettier town, to have it settled.
Upon recollection, this town may be quieter for having no trading
justices resident on the spot. Am since informed, a gentleman in the
commission of the peace attends here occasionally from Lewes.--There can
be no antiquities; for Brighthelmston was only a small obscure village,
occupied by fishermen, till silken Folly and bloated Disease, under the
auspices of a Dr. Russell, deemed it necessary to crowd the shore, and
fill the inhabitants with contempt for their visitors." In his "Diary,"
also, Tuesday, September 7th, 1779, he writes:--"Am viewing my worthy
friend, Mr. Bull's house, or rather box, upon the Clift, between Ship
Street and Black-lion Street.--He beckons me in, and shews it throughout.
It is one pretty room to the height of three stories, with a semicircular
window comprising most of the front, and on each floor overlooking the
sea all ways, which makes the situation most delightful. The ground
whereon it stands is copyhold--indeed the ground in and about Brighton is
mostly so--measuring nearly eighteen feet square. The fine is both
certain and small. About fifty years ago, this piece of land was sold
for four pounds; thirty years since, a purchaser gave eleven; and about
this time two years, the Alderman bought it for one hundred pounds to
build upon." The premises here referred to are 35, King's road, those in
the occupation of Mr. Ridley, boot and shoe maker. In the same Diary,
date Monday, September 7th, 1778, he remarks: "Mr Alderman Bull, of
London, is building a house on the Clift; a semicircular window is in
each story. Am told he meets with many obstacles in the execution of his
design.--Surely it is to the interest of these people (meaning the
inhabitants) to have such men become resident among them; but he is
denied a convenient entrance to his building. A cellar window to the
adjoining house projects before his street door."
That Brighton at the present day possesses fine architectural features
cannot be denied. The magnificent Squares and Crescents which flank its
sea-frontage, and even form part of the frontage, possess strong claims
on our admiration, especially when we glance at the general state and
style of architecture of our time, and reflect upon the rapid rise and
development of the town--looking to what it was and considering what it
is.
During the close of the last, and the beginning of this century,
architecture had reached its lowest ebb in England. Our true indigenous
Gothic had almost passed into a tradition: the Classic models, from their
extreme ill-adaptation to our climate, had undergone such deterioration,
that the application of the term even to the best of later works was an
absurdity. The influence of Sir Christopher Wren had been of the most
baneful character; not that he was himself deficient in genius, but that
his style, which hardly attains to grandeur even in the Metropolitan
Cathedral, was of a character which inevitably degenerated in feeble
hands. Thus it happened that we were left almost without a national
style, or, at least with one utterly devoid of intrinsic merit of any
kind. The churches and other public buildings were erected upon no
principles; and in accordance only with the taste, or want of taste, in
the architect, who no longer represented an Art, but devoted himself to a
Profession.
Of course, when all the higher and more important offices of architecture
were thus indifferently served, it was not to be expected that
street-architecture would fare very happily. Our streets, in fact,
gradually lost all their picturesqueness and variety of the olden times,
and gained neither dignity nor beauty. Complacent builders shrugged
their shoulders in pity at ancestors who had covered houses with roofs
like over-sized wigs; or had recourse to hanging stories one projecting
over the other until the light of heaven only stole into the streets
through a narrow aperture above the road. But though these things were
quaint and barbarous, there was a something about them which had in it
the sense of beauty,--something which makes one even now prefer the High
Street of Eastgrinstead to the latest built, the most elegant and
supernaturally genteel of our modern terraces.
This, however, has only just begun to be felt, and when Brighton rose
like a dream upon the remains of a fishing village, none of these things
were thought of. People had certainly discernment enough to see that the
rude village style would not do. A visitor of Dr. Russell's time
describes Brighton houses as consisting of one or more stories, and with
the door-ways so low that you must stoop to enter, and then probably
stumble down a step or two into the sitting room. A person has only to
go into the Twittens, the narrow lanes between Middle Street and Black
Lion Street, to witness even now such illustrations. The Railway booking
office, in Castle Square, is a specimen of the architecture of Brighton
after this period; and under George IV. it was beginning its marvellous
development.
This sort of thing it soon became necessary to alter, and year after year
saw the gradual improvement in the streets of the town. But though this
resulted in fine streets, and in lofty and commodious houses, the element
of beauty was always wanting, simply because there was nothing like a
principle in the minds of builders. They had some vague notions of the
Palladian oracles, of a bastard Italian, a debased Renaissance,
applicable to dwelling-houses; but the results of the application were
and have been, up to the present time, deplorable.
Brighton is not alone in this matter,--indeed, it rises superior to very
many of its compeers; but when its position and infinite diversity of
sight are reflected upon, there cannot fail to be regrets upon the
Brighton it might have been. Supposing, for example, that an earlier
recognition of the claims of Gothic and an English style had taken place.
Suppose that the public buildings, instead of being of the packing case
order in beauty--hollow cubes with a sham frontage of stuccoed
pilasters--had presented the variety in structure and beauty in detail
which is found in a minor degree in St. Peter's Church. Suppose further
that the streets, instead of having, as at present, flat, level surfaces,
without a line of beauty in themselves, without a curve or an angle to
reflect the sunshine or hold the shadow, which is so exquisite, had
retained even the quaintness of early times, what a town Brighton would
have been! No continental town could, from its very situation and the
formation of the ground upon which it stands, have exceeded it in
picturesque loveliness. And short of this, even had the purer Italian
models been followed, had builders attempted such erections as those of
Palmeira Square, or those of the Pavilion Buildings,--and they are the
best specimens of that class of street architecture which we possess,--the
result would have been a grandeur and a beauty which would have left the
visitor no ground for a moment's doubt that Brighton is indeed the "Queen
of Watering Places."
The improvement in the style of the buildings was the natural result of
the great accession of visitors for the benefit of the sea-bathing. Bew
remarks, Sunday, September 13th, 1778:--"Took the liberty of surveying all
the bathing-machines. Fine ladies going,--fine ladies coming away.
Observe them at the instant of bathing,--how humiliating! They appear
more deplorable than so many corpses in shrouds, and put me in mind of
the old dialogue between Death and the Lady. Methinks the guide is
saying, in the character of Death,--
Fair lady, lay your costly robes aside,
Nor longer think to glory in your pride."
An idea may be formed of the rage for bathing at this period from an
entry of the same diarist, Thursday, September 9th, 1779:--"Each man runs
to a machine-ladder as it is dragging out of the sea, and scuffles who
shall first set foot thereon: some send their footmen and contend by
proxy; others go in in boots, or on horseback to meet the machines:--so
that a tolerably modest man, on a busy morning, has generally an hour and
a half, perhaps two hours, for contemplation on the sands, to the
detriment of his shoes, as well as the diminution of his patience." And
on Saturday, the 11th of the same month, he writes:--"Have matched the
bathers and bathees this trip however, having corrected them all
handsomely--without quarrelling--have given them the slip; but take the
particulars:--About 6 a.m., I drew along the sands, the machine of which I
had become seized by prescriptive right, by legal possession, having
deposited part of my wearing apparel therein, tho' I had requested the
assistance of the _marine centaur_, the man on horseback, in vain. As
the tide was flowing, I soon plunged into the sea, stretched a long way
out into the offing, and continued rolling and laughing among my brother
porpoises, to think what a loss the company on shore would sustain for
want of one machine out of seven, it being a very fine busy morning. The
bathers holloa'd and bawled in vain; for I could not, indeed would not
hear them. After swimming backwards and forwards along the shore, about
four miles in the whole, the tide setting strong to the eastward all the
time, I returned about nine; and Smoaker, growling like a bear with a
sore head, swore bitterly."
William (Smoaker) Miles was a great celebrity, being the principal
bathing man. One day, when the Prince of Wales was bathing, he ventured
out further than Old Smoaker considered prudent. In vain Smoaker called
"Mr. Prince, Mr. Prince, come back," his holloas only causing His Royal
Highness to dash out further. As the only means to exact obedience, in
rushed the old man, swam up to the Prince, and, seizing him by the ear,
lugged him, _nolens volens_, to the shore. When his young aquatic
student remonstrated upon receiving such treatment, Old Smoaker rolled
out a round oath or two, adding, "I ar'n't agoen' to let the king hang me
for letten' the Prince of Wales drown hisself; not I, to please nobody, I
can tell'e." The incident pleased the Prince, who ever afterwards
patronised him. To testify, also, His Royal Highness's respect for the
straightforward, honest, but blunt fellow, he established the Smoaker
Stakes, which were run for at the Brighton Races, Friday, July 25th,
1806, with the following result:
The Smoaker Stakes of 20gs. each, one mile; 8 yr. olds to carry 7st.
4 yr. olds 8st. 3lb. 5 yr. olds 8st. 9lb. 6 yr. olds 9st. 11lb.,
and aged 9st. 1lb.
His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales's b. h. Albion, 6 yrs. 1
old
Mr. Fermer's b. c. Hippomenes, 4 yrs. old 2
Lord Egremont's b. m. Slipper, 5 yrs. old 3
Mr Howorth's ch. c Patagonian, by Pegasus, 3 yrs. old 4
At starting the odds were 3 to 2 in favour of the field. Albion was
the favourite; 2 to 1 against Hippomenes and Slipper; and 3 to 1
against Patagonian. A good heat between the two horses first in.
Won by about a neck.
Old Smoaker was a bit of a wit in his way. On one occasion, while he was
standing near the Ship in Distress Inn, now the Sea House Hotel, two
dandies of the day addressed him, stating that they had come down to
Brighton for the benefit of their health, and had been recommended to
drink asses' milk, could he inform them how it was to be obtained.
Miles, more plain than polite, replied that he did not then exactly know,
but he should advise them, for the sake of saving themselves trouble, to
suck each other.
William Miles was succeeded, as Royal Bather, by his brother John, who,
when too old to follow his occupation, was pensioned off by Royalty, as
long as he lived. A song of the time, then very popular, ran thus:--
There's plenty of dippers and jokers,
And salt-water rigs for your fun;
The king of them all is "Old Smoaker,"
The queen of 'em, "Old Martha Gunn."
The ladies walk out in the morn,
To taste of the salt-water breeze;
They ask if the water is warm,
Says Martha, "Yes, Ma'am, if you please."
Then away to the machines they run,
'Tis surprising how soon they get stript;
I oft wish myself Martha Gunn,
Just to see the young ladies get dipt.
Martha Gunn had a world-wide fame, and was the cotemporary of Mrs. Cobby,
the original bather. Old Smoaker's daughter was known as Martha's
handmaiden, she being the chief dipper with the "Lady of the Bath."
The following extracts from the _Morning Herald_ will give an idea of the
importance of Martha and her occupation:--
July 15th, 1805.--The venerable Priestess of the Bath, Martha Gunn,
was busily employed this morning.
August 4th, 1806.--The bathing machines were in active use this
morning, and Neptune's _pickling tub_ exhibited many beauties in
brine.
August 16th.--Many of our lovely belles took _ducks_ for their
breakfast this morning, purchased of their cateress, Martha Gunn, who
boasts that from the fair profits she gains by the sale of her
_ducks_, she is often enabled to purchase a goose for dinner.
August 28th.--The Beach this morning was thronged with ladies, all
anxious to make interest for a dip. The machines, of course, were in
very great request, though none could be run into the ocean in
consequence of the heavy swell, but remained stationary at the
water's edge, from which Martha Gunn and her robust female assistants
took their fair charges, closely enveloped in their partly coloured
dresses, and gently held them to the breakers, which not quite so
gently passed over them. The greatest novelty, however, that this
part of the coast exhibited this morning, was in a gentleman's
undressing himself on the Beach, for the purpose of a ducking, in
front of the town, attended by his lady, who _sans diffidence_,
supplied him with napkins, and even assisted him in wiping the humid
effects of his exercise from his brawny limbs, as he returned from
the water to dress.
In the following season the practice of bathing from the beach became so
general that on Thursday, August 19th, a Vestry Meeting was held at the
Old Ship, for the purpose of adopting measures to prevent the indecent
practice of indiscriminate bathing in front of the town. Earl Bathurst
and Mr. Wilberforce were present, and subscribed five guineas each to
defray any expenses of prosecutions that might be deemed requisite to rid
the town of the evil. The resolutions passed, that proceedings should be
taken against offenders, for awhile had the desired effect; but in 1808
the nuisance was revived, resulting in a prosecution at the Horsham
Assizes, on Monday, March 21st, 1809. The case was:--
THE KING _v._ JOHN CRUNDEN.--The defendant was indicted for indecently
exposing himself on the beach at Brighton, on the 26th of June, and
2nd of July last.
Mr. Gurney having opened the indictment, Mr. Serjeant Shepperd stated
the circumstances of the case. He observed, that it had long been
the practice of various persons to undress and bathe so near to the
houses, and within view of the inhabitants of the town of Brighton,
that at length many respectable persons had associated themselves
into a Committee, to prevent such an indecent nuisance. They had
accordingly met and pointed out the limits within which persons not
using machines might bathe in the sea, and in general most persons
acquiesced in their resolution. In order, however, that no person
might complain of any hardship, they resolved that all persons who
were invalids, and to whom it might be inconvenient to walk to the
distance prescribed, should have tickets given them on application to
the Committee, which would entitle them at any time to the use of a
bathing machine gratis. And still further, to preserve public
decency they had built a hut on the beach, wherein any person might
undress himself under cover. Notwithstanding these different
accommodations, the defendant, who was a tailor, at Brighton, refused
to conform to these reasonable regulations, but obstinately persisted
in the indecent practice of bathing within a few yards of the houses.
He had been frequently remonstrated with, but his uniform answer was,
the _sea was free_, and he would bathe when and where he pleased.
Nor was he merely content in doing this in his own person, but he had
induced many others to follow his example, and he constantly came at
the head of his companions, by whom he was denominated the Captain,
and in defiance of all decency and remonstrance, daily exposed
himself naked on the Beach. The Learned Serjeant here called
witnesses to prove the facts he had stated.
Mr. Marryatt addressed the jury for the defence, in which he stated
it had been the custom at all times for persons to bathe where the
defendant now bathed, and they ought not to be disturbed because Mr.
Ellis, the witness, had thought proper to run up houses within view.
The Chief Baron thought this a serious question, and stated his
opinion that it was an offence against decency and morality. If a
town grew up, the inhabitants must not be annoyed with indecent
spectacles; and therefore it became the duty of the bather to retire
to remoter situations.--The Jury found the defendant _Guilty_.
For awhile this example had a very salutary effect; but, more or less,
until the present season, the nuisance has continued. Now the New Bye
Laws prohibit bathing from the beach in front of the town, except before
the hour of six in the morning or after nine in the evening; and all
persons bathing from the machines are compelled to wear gowns, drawers,
or some such suitable covering. Less than thirty years since the bathing
from the Ladies' Bathing Machines, between West Street and Middle Street,
was not of the most pleasant character, as it was customary for coal
brigs in fine weather, to discharge their cargoes at that spot, and
frequently, so was the surface of the water covered with fine coal dust,
that many a child who dreaded bathing, was compelled to be dipped an
extra time or two by the bathing women, to rinse off the black particles.
Some years have elapsed since the universal practice prevailed of
discharging cargoes of coal, stone, timber, &c., in front of the town,
greater facilities than formerly existed being offered now, at Shoreham,
for unloading at the wharfs, without the risk of the vessels--as was very
frequently the case,--being stranded. Great quantities of coal is also
transmitted to Brighton by rail from Deptford Creek, so that that useful
household commodity is much reduced in price to what it formerly was. In
the week prior to Christmas, 1812, such was the scarcity of coal in the
town, from adverse winds prevailing and preventing the arrival of
shipping from the north, that persons in even comfortable circumstances,
whose cellars were exhausted, purchased only to the extent of a bushel at
a time, and so indifferent were the coal merchants to part with their
coal even at 5 a chaldron--about equal to the present ton,--that at the
coal-yard of Messrs. Edmund Savage and Bonham, which was situate opposite
Ship Street Lane, in North Street, immediately above the shop of Messrs.
Palmer and Green, ironmongers, the purchaser of half-a-bushel of coal was
compelled likewise to buy at the same time sixpenny worth of uncleft
wood.
The following will show the cost of coal per chaldron at that period to
the coal merchants in the town:--
Newcastle on Tyne, the Sixteenth day of November in the year of our
Lord One Thousand Eight Hundred and Thirteen.
It is this day mutually agreed between Mr. William Spence, owner of
the good ship or vessel, called the "Eliza," Wm. Hunter, master, of
the burthen of 96 tons, or thereabouts, now on her passage to
Sunderland; and Messrs. Savage and Bonham, of Brighton, merchants,
freighters of the said ship, for one voyage, at and from Sunderland
to Brighton Beach. That the said ship being tight, staunch, and
strong, and every way fitted for the voyage, the said master, with
said ship, shall, with the first opportunity, after arriving at
Sunderland, take on board a full and competent cargo of Nesham Main
Coals. And being so loaden, the said master, with said ship, shall
therewith proceed to Brighton Beach, or so near thereunto as he may
safely get, and deliver the same to the order of the said freighters,
on being paid freight, at the rate of Thirty-eight Shillings per
chaldron, Winchester measure; the freighters paying King's duty, Town
dues at Brighton, Ramsgate and Dover Harbour dues, and the owner
lights, metage, delivery, and pilotage, during said voyage.
(Restraints of princes and rulers, the dangers of the seas, of
whatever nature, fire, and enemies, always excepted.) Freight to be
paid on delivery by what cash wanted for ship's use, and for the
remainder a good Bill on London, at two months' date. Two days
allowed said freighters (if the ship is not sooner despatched), for
unloading the said ship at Brighton. Demurrage, Three Guineas per
day, for every day's detention, over and above the days allowed as
aforesaid. Witness our hands the day and year above written.
Witness, MATT. FAIRLESS.
WILLIAM SPENCE.
The incidental expenses attendant upon freighting a vessel brought the
actual cost to 3 16s. 3d. per chaldron, as thus:--
. s. d.
Freight per chaldron 1 18 0
Nesham Main Coals at 17 0
King's Duty per chaldron 10 0
Town Duty do 3 0
Spoutage at Newcastle do 6
Cartage from Beach do 4 0
Metage and Trimming do 1 0
Ramsgate and Dover Lights do 2 6
Beer to men do 3
3 16 3
Added to this, Mr. Savage, upon this occasion, to obtain the cargo with
the least possible delay, made a journey to Newcastle, the expenses of
which amounted to 20.
In 1805, persons interested in shipping, the coal merchants especially,
entertained the idea of a basin or harbour for the safety and
accommodation of vessels trading hither. The project did not meet with
approval amongst the inhabitants generally, as they were desirous of
retaining the town as a place of fashionable resort, rather than make it
a trading port; and in April, the following year, His Royal Highness the
Prince of Wales having caused it to be signified through Mr. Thomas
Saunders, High Constable, that he had not bestowed his sanction or
patronage in favour of the project, and that he did not intend to possess
any such intention, the idea was abandoned. Some of those, however,
interested in the scheme, bore their disappointment with but an ill
grace, and for some years after the payment of the coal duties was the
source of much disaffection. The principal of those who combatted
against the payment was Mr. William Izard, whose reasons of objection
were embodied in a handbill which he issued, as follows:--
_To the Vistors and Inhabitants of the Town of Brighthelmston_, _and
to all such other persons as it may concern_.
Whereas sundry reports and misrepresentations have been propagated,
and widely circulated concerning myself, in consequence of my having
lately refused to pay the Coal Duty of three shillings per chaldron
on all coals landed (_from my own vessels_) at this place, for the
use and consumption of the inhabitants, as heretofore levied by the
Commissioners acting under the Town Act, for the express purpose of
"Building and repairing Groyns, Sea Walls, and other works, for the
protection of the town of Brighthelmston against the encroachment of
the sea, pursuant to the powers and by virtue of and by the authority
of an Act of Parliament made and passed in the 50th year of his
present Majesty," for the before-named purposes;
In vindication of my own conduct, and in strict justice to myself and
family, and that the public may not form an opinion which may in any
wise operate to my prejudice, I do hereby beg leave to state my
several objections for so refusing to pay the said Coal Duties, so
unwarrantably demanded, viz.:--
FIRST.--Because it clearly appears to me, from the best account that I
have been able to obtain from Mr. T. Attree, the Commissioners' Clerk
and Treasurer, that since the passing of the aforesaid Act of
Parliament and the levying of the said Coal Duties, that the
Commissioners have actually been in the receipt of near Eight
Thousand Pounds from that source only!
And that it also appears that the said Commissioners have not
expended _Three Thousand Pounds_ of such monies so received, for the
protection of the town, agreeable to the express provisions and in
strict conformity to such enactments as are set forth in the said Act
of Parliament; so that it seems that there is now a balance of
between four and five thousand pounds in favour of that particular
and specific account, and which balance of Surplus Duties now remains
unapplied towards those sacred purposes for which it was raised, by
and under the authority of the aforesaid Act of Parliament.
And notwithstanding the immense balance in favour of the Groyns just
before stated, and irreconcilable and incongruous as it may appear,
these very same Commissioners are now actually paying the interest on
the sum of 1140 money borrowed on the credit of the said Coal
Duties, and that, in direct opposition to the very terms of the
aforesaid Act of Parliament, which strictly restrains Commissioners
from applying any money arising from that branch of their finance to
any other use or purpose whatever, whilst there shall be any money
due or be owing upon the credit of that account.
And yet under all these circumstances the Commissioners are still
endeavouring to increase their balance of Coal Duties, although it is
not wanted for the purpose for which it is levied; and were the
Commissioners to convert such balance to any other use, it would in
them constitute a great abuse of power, and a high breach of their
trust!
As I do not chuse to participate in either of these crimes, I am
unwilling to increase the guilt of such a portion of the
Commissioners as may chuse to indulge in such gross misconduct, by
continuing to do that to my own wrong, which would ultimately
increase theirs.
It is upon these grounds and upon them only, that I have been induced
to refuse the payment of Groyn Dues; and I must also beg it to be
unequivocally understood, that when the before-named balance of
between Four and Five Thousand Pounds shall have been legally and
fairly expended and properly accounted for, and if circumstances
should hereafter make it necessary, I shall most willingly and
cheerfully submit to the payment of the Coal Duty as heretofore.
Brighton, August 24th, 1814.
WM. IZARD.
Since the publication of the above address, Mr. Wm. Gates, principal
Coast Officer of the Customs at this place, and the Commissioners'
Collector of Groyn Dues, assisted by Mr. T. Attree, their Clerk and
Treasurer, accompanied by the Brighton Magistrates, and also by Mr.
Robert Ackerson, the present High Constable, and a great possy of
"Headboroughs" and other persons have thought proper to make a
seizure in my Coal Yard of Eight Chaldron of Coals, to satisfy
themselves for the payment of such Dues as they pretend to claim as
due from myself: to effect which, the violent measure of breaking
open my Coal Yard gate, by forcing the lock, was resorted to, on
Thursday last; but as the merits of this transaction are put into a
fair train of legal investigation, I have to request that the candid
public will be pleased to suspend judgment till the issue shall be so
determined.
WM. IZARD,
Ship Owner and Coal Merchant.
Brighton, August 29, 1814.
The power of the authorities prevailed, and the Dues continued to be
exacted.
The female attendants of the machines are, as respects dress especially,
of the primitive order of their race, except that they do not in the
afternoon appear in their best prim attire, as of yore they were wont to
do, to "tout" in Castle Square, on the arrival of the coaches. Their
last grand show day in their aquatic costume was on the occasion of their
visit to the Exhibition, in Hyde Park, 1851, when, to defray their
expenses, subscriptions were raised amongst the inhabitants. At the
Exhibition they were the observed of all observers; and had but the
original idea been carried out of their travelling from the London Bridge
Terminus to the building, in their machines, the arrangements of the day
would have been complete, and the unsightliness and primitive
construction of the vehicles would have excited the sympathy of some
inventor and induced him to bring out something that would have had a
creditable appearance.
Almost coeval with sea-bathing in establishing the reputation of
Brighton, were the baths, first established by Dr. Awsiter, on the spot
now occupied by Brill's Ladies' Swimming Bath, and for so many years
known as Wood's Original Hot and Cold Sea-water Baths. The first stone
of these baths, which were after a plan of Mr. Golden, architect, was
laid in the year 1759. Mr. George Lynn erected the present building.
Dr. Awsiter, in a pamphlet, called "Thoughts on Brighthelmston,"
published in 1768, says, "The utility of these baths is obvious: they may
be used either for hot or cold bathing. There are some individuals to
whom cold bathing would be serviceable, could they be able to bear the
fatigue of being dipt in the sea, and (what is more material), to be
exposed to the cold air. If the weather happens to be stormy, and the
sea so rough, as not to admit of bathing in it, recourse may be had to
the baths: by this means bathing would become more universal, be
unattended with terror, and no cure protracted. Moreover, invalids would
have the advantage of this bathing remedy all the year round; whereas, on
account of the variableness of our climate, it is denied them at present,
except in the Summer months, and then only in calm weather."
The Artillery Baths, the next established, obtained their original fame
from the proprietor, Mr. Smith, having discovered a method of curing the
gout, by means of an air pump, from whence many persons of rank and
consequence received great benefit. They are known now as Hobden's
Artillery Baths.
Williams's Hot and Cold Baths, which occupied the site of the present
Lion Mansion, at one period received extensive patronage, and the
_Morning Herald_ of August 17, 1807, says, "Williams's Baths are in very
fashionable request. Numberless _elegantes_ were in hot water there this
morning." On Mr. Williams's decease they were carried on by Mr.
Bannister, who was succeeded by his son-in-law, Mr. William Knight. The
halcyon days, however, of these baths had fled, and the premises, after
remaining in a very dilapidated state for some time, were cleared off for
the erection of the present noble mansion.
The personage who acquired the greatest fame for his baths, and obtained
the highest and most extensive patronage, was Sake Deen Mahomed, who,
although not born in Brighton, yet, this highly favoured town was the
theatre where his name became patent for the alleviation of suffering
mankind, and hence he is entitled to special notice.
He was a native of India, and was born at Patna, the capital of Bahar,
about 290 miles N.W. of Calcutta, in the year 1749. Having been educated
for the surgical profession, he entered the East India Company's service
in that capacity, which he afterwards relinquished, and for fifteen years
acted exclusively in a military character. In the year 1780 he was
appointed by Major, afterwards General Popham, to a company, but in 1784,
he left the service and came to England, where be continued to reside the
remainder of his valuable life. In his early days having devoted much
time and attention to Oriental bathing, both medicinally and as a luxury,
on his arrival in England, he was induced to think seriously of
introducing the Indian Vapour Bath, and the art of Shampooing, and
sedulously employed himself in preliminary experiments, to prove the
correctness of the hypothesis he had formed, that what was a luxurious
restorative in India, might prove in England a wonderful remedy for many
diseases.
Justified by proof, he repaired to Brighton, where he promulgated his
discovery, but at first with little success, as the public were
ill-prepared to receive a system which should supercede Warm Sea-water
Bathing. Fortunately, however, he effected several gratuitous
cures,--cures which quickly gained circulation amongst those who had
prejudged and condemned his bath; and adduced the most positive and
convincing proof of the great superiority of Shampooing over every other
description of treatment, in particular cases. All prejudices were
quickly removed, and his wide-spread fame soon gained him the appointment
of Shampooing Surgeon to their Majesties George IV. and William IV.
Presents, conveying the expressions of the deepest feelings of gratitude
and thankfulness, crowded upon him. The Muses poured forth their
eulogiums; the several organs of the press--national and local--their
panegyrics.
He exemplified the curative and invigorating influence of his Art in his
person and his longevity. He died the 24th of February, 1851, at the
advanced age of 102 years, and was buried in the church-yard of St.
Nicholas, Brighton, where an unassuming tomb records his age and death.
He was father of Mr. Frederick Mahomed, of the Gymnasium, Palace Place.
Mahomed's Bath establishment opposite the Star and Garter Hotel, King's
Road, is now the property of Mr. Charles Brill, who is likewise the
proprietor of the Ladies' Swimming Bath, before mentioned, and the
extensive baths and the Gentlemen's Swimming Bath, originally Lamprell's,
at the bottom of East Street. Buggins's Baths in Western Street, are a
great acquisition to the western part of the town; where also, in the
Western Road, Hove, is the Turkish Bath of Dr. Toulmin, who is well
supported in his popular treatment. Other baths have from time to time
been started, mostly, however, with a very ephemeral existence.
Great as was the success of Mahomed's process, he was in no
inconsiderable degree indebted for the many cures he effected to the
perseverance of Mr. Henry Harrap, to whose memory the author of this book
has a grateful respect, for enabling him to retain and ably use a leg,
the amputation of which had been recommended by the faculty. Little is
known of his early career, more than that he was born at Helston, in
Cornwall, October 21st, 1794. He left home at an early age, and during
the short peace previous to the battle of Waterloo, he was a private in
the 51st Foot, the Duke of York's Own. In 1817, he was with his regiment
stationed at the Infantry Barracks, Brighton, being then an officer's
servant. His brother Richard was also in the same regiment, as
Sergeant-Bugler, and, during his location here, he married, at Preston, a
young woman, the widow of Corporal Fudge, late of the Gloucester Militia.
But shortly after his marriage he deserted. His wife however, provided
two substitutes, and paid 40 for his discharge; she also bought Henry
off, and the two brothers, till the year 1828, followed the trade of boot
and shoe making, in Ivory Place. The maiden name of his wife was Short,
a native of the village of Hangleton, and she was married to Fudge before
she was 14 years of age, in consequence of her mother, who was a widow,
being about to be married to another corporal in the same regiment, the
man refusing to wed her with an incumbrance. Richard died in 1828, and
in the following year Henry was married to his brother's widow, at St.
George's in the Borough, London. By neither brother had she any family;
but by her first husband she had four daughters. She died in July, 1843.
In 1838, Mr. Harrap discontinued the business of shoemaking, and
converted the shop-front of his premises on the Grand Parade, at the
corner of Sussex Street, to one of a more private character, devoting the
whole of his attention to professional rubbing.
At the zenith of the career of Sake Deen Mahomed, Mr. Harrap obtained the
custom of that professor, and for a long time continued to make and
repair shoes for the family. This circumstance caused him frequently to
visit Mr. Mahomed's establishment, where he principally obtained that
information which enabled him to commence the practice of rubbing,
omitting the shampooing process, his inventive genius enabling him to
substitute as many contrivances as the numerous cases of affliction
entrusted to his skill and care required. Many of his inventions, which
had been of benefit to sufferers, formed a species of Museum in a room at
Mahomed's establishment. From Mrs. Williams, too, a neighbour, in Ivory
Place, who was celebrated for her healing unguents, Mr. Harrap gained
much of his surgical knowledge.
Mr. Harrap was totally uneducated, and, at the commencement of his
professional career, entirely unacquainted with medical science and
nomenclature; yet, progressively, by natural instinct as it were, and
studied practice, he acquired a knowledge of anatomy which astonished
those who were conversant with that science; and gentlemen of high
position in the medical profession--including the late Sir Matthew
Tierney, Sir Astley Cooper, Sir Benjamin Brodie, &c.,--acknowledged his
worth by awarding him that credit which they considered due to an
energetic and gifted man. His perseverance enabled him to amass a large
fortune; and after having been a great sufferer for more than two years,
from a cancer of the bowels, he was removed by death from the scene of a
most useful life, on Saturday, the 12th of October of last year, leaving
a wife, the widow of the late Sidney Walsingham Bennett, Esq., solicitor,
to lament her irreparable bereavement, and a large circle of grateful
patients and sincere friends the remembrance of an honourable, and
honoured man.
For some time previous to his decease he had been unable to attend
actively to his professional duties; yet, he was present daily, at his
house of business on the Grand parade, watching, and instructing his
step-son, now his successor, Mr. Sidney Bennett, who qualified as a
surgeon on the 29th of May, 1861, and there is little doubt his
perseverance in the course pursued by the deceased will add a lustre to
his father-in-law's name, and confirm a credit due to the memory of a man
who was never ambitious of praise, but perseveringly sought a remedy to
alleviate the sufferings of the afflicted. Deceased was buried at the
Parochial Cemetery, Lewes Road.
Nature has been peculiarly bountiful in her goodness towards Brighton;
as, independent of the salubrity of the position of the town and the
superlative excellence of its sea-water, the Chalybeate spring at the
Wick is possessed of great curative properties, the opinion of Drs.
Russell and Relhan, being confirmed by Dr. Henderson, who thus writes:--
This water, when first taken from the spring in a glass, in
appearance greatly resembles a solution of emetic tartar in common
water. The taste is not unpleasant, something like that upon a knife
after it has been used in cutting lemons. It does not seem to
contain the smallest portion of sulphur; it neither changes vegetable
blues, red, nor does it effervesce with alkaline salts, calcareous
earths, magnesia, nor fossil alkali; neither does it change vegetable
blues, green, nor does it effervesce with acids; yet it curdles soap,
and renders a solution of it in various spirits milky.
It seems to contain a considerable portion of calcareous earth, mixed
with vitriolic acid in the form of its selenites, and also a
considerable portion of iron, as will appear from the following
experiment: Sixty-four ounces of this water by measure being
evaporated to dryness, there was a residuum of a brownish colour,
full of spicul, weighing eight grains, four ounces of which, with an
equal quantity of charcoal, was made into a paste with oil, and
calcined. On trying the calcined matter with the magnet, two pieces
nearly in the metallic form adhered to it; and when put upon paper,
at the distance of half an inch, moved in every direction with the
magnet. These two pieces weighed one-eighth of a grain.
The gross residuum neither effervesces with alkali nor acids, and is
sufficiently soluble in water.
This water becomes instantly transparent, like distilled water, on
the addition of any of the mineral acids, especially the vitriolic.
A solution of galls in common water, added to an equal portion of
this water, becomes black like ink, in a few minutes.
The Chalybeate has been found serviceable in several cases of general
debility, crapulas, indigestion, atony of the stomach, and fluor
albus; and in all those diseases where chalybeate and tonic remedies
are required, it promises, under due regulation, to be useful.
Dr. Henderson was a physician of eminence in the town; and a minute of
Vestry, at the Unicorn Inn, February 10th, 1794, shews the esteem in
which he was held by the inhabitants. It runs thus:--"Dr. Henderson
presented with a pint silver cup, for his care and attention to the
parish."
A character of the time, who also practised the healing art, is not so
favourably mentioned in the Vestry Book, February 4th, 1805, the entry of
him being:--"Resolved that Michael Cobby be allowed eight shillings per
week, on his quitting the Poor-house; and his drugs and effects delivered
up to him." It must not, from this, however, be supposed medicine and
surgery were so at a discount that parish relief was requisite to
maintain
The wise physician skilled our wounds to heal.
Dr. Cobby, as he was familiarly known, had talent, but he was more a
disciple of Bacchus, than of Galen, and the natural reply to him, as he
tendered his services in his tattered clothes, which his poverty bespake,
and as a foul specimen of the unwashed, would be "Physician,
heal--cleanse--thyself." Not that Brighton at that period had waned in the
least from the character it had obtained for healthfulness, as a
memorandum, made August, 1806, states:--"Such is the healthy condition of
the town, that the doctors and apothecaries complain dolefully of their
declining businesses, and undertakers are literally starved out, the
latter declaring, 'All trades must live,' but the residents are
determined not to serve them." In 1580, there was but one medical man in
Brighton, Dr. Mathews, who lived in Middle street. His terms for
attending in confinements were: At Portslade and Rottingdean, 5s; at
Blatchington, 3s 6d; and anywhere in the town of Brighthelmston, 2s 6d.
In the early part of 1886, a sad scourge, the small pox, pervaded the
town, and on the 25th of January, that year, when the population amounted
to 3620, the following return of its virulence was made:--
_Those who had the _Nos. who had not_.
small pox_.
West Street 351 322
Middle Street and 231 272
Lanes
North St. and ditto 234 295
Ship and Blk-Lyon do 318 336
Knab, Cliff, Brighton 260 291
pl. and Little East
St.
East St. and Nth Row, 308 291
Steyne and Pool Lane
Poor in the House 31 50
Number supposed. 0 30
After taking numbers
1733 1887
A general inoculation in consequence, was ordered at a Vestry Meeting;
and the 1887 who escaped the disease were inoculated by Messrs. Lowdell,
Gilbert, Pankhurst, and Tilston, the charges being: The poor, servants,
and day-labourers, at 2s. 6d. each; and other persons at 7s. 6d. each.
The return of the deaths is not made in the Vestry minute book.
One of the crowning features of Brighton, as a health-providing town, is
the German Spa, Queen's Park, an establishment for manufacturing the
Artificial Mineral Waters, which, by the faculty, are pronounced to be so
perfect an imitation of the original springs in Germany, that the most
celebrated chemists can detect no difference between them. They are the
production of Dr. Struve, of Dresden, who some years ago turned his
attention to the analysis and imitation of the original, and patients who
have drank both can discover no difference in their flavour or effect.
The artificial waters supplied are:--
WARM WATERS CARLSBAD The Sprudel 165 Fahrenheit
Neubrunnen 138
Mulhbrunnen 138
Theressebrunnen 122
EMMS The Krnchen 117
Kesselbrunnen 84
COLD WATERS MARIENBAD Kreutzbrunnen
AUSCHOWITZ Ferdinandsbrunnen
EGER Frazenbrunnen
PYRMONT
SPA
SEIDSCHUTZ
PULLNA
Mr. G. S. Carey, in a "Poetical Tagg, or Brighthelmstone Guide," {241}
July 28th, 1777, gives the following on the rise and progress of the town
even at that date:--
This town, or village of renown,
Like London Bridge, half broken down,
Few years ago was worse than Wapping,
Not fit for human soul to stop in;
But now, like to a worn-out shoe,
By patching well, the place will do.
You'd wonder much, I'm sure, to see,
How it's becramm'd with quality;
Here Lords and Ladies oft carouse
Together in a tiny house;
Like Joan and Darby in their cot,
With stool and table, spit and pot;
And what his valet would despise,
His lordship praises to the skies;
But such the _ton_ is, such the case,
You'll see the first of rank or place,
With star and riband, all profuse,
Duck at his door-way like a goose:
The humble beam was plac'd so low,
Perhaps to teach some clown to bow.
The air is pure as pure can be,
And such an aspect of the sea!
As you, perhaps, ne'er saw before,
From off the side of any shore:
On one hand Ceres spreads her plain,
And on the other, o'er the main,
Many a bark majestic laves
Upon the salt and buoyant waves;
The hills all mantl'd o'er with green,
A friendly shelter to the Steyne,
Whene'er the rugged Boreas blows,
Bemingled with unwelcome snows:
Such is the place and situation,
Such is the reigning seat of fashion.
Brighthelmstone,
July 28th, 1777.
Four years previous to the date of this "Tag," namely, in 1773, an Act of
Parliament was passed, giving power to sixty-four Commissioners, elected
by the inhabitants, to light and cleanse the streets, lanes, and other
places within the town of Brighton, and for the general regulation and
improvement of the town. In 1809, meetings of the inhabitants took place
at the Old Ship, for and in opposition to obtaining a new Act of
Parliament; and on the 21st of February, 1810, a very large majority of
the Vestry, at a meeting held at the Old Ship, resolved that the Bill as
framed by the Town Committee, which had been appointed by the
inhabitants, should be forthwith presented to Parliament, to be passed
into a law. The Act passed that year, augmenting the number of
Commissioners to one hundred, and raising the duty on coal from sixpence
to three shillings per chaldron. On the 22nd of June, 1825, (6 Geo. IV.)
this Act was repealed and another passed, extending the number of
Commissioners to one hundred and twelve, and giving them increased
powers, in consequence of the extensive enlargement and requirements of
the town.
Under the provisions of this Act some of the greatest improvements in the
town were effected. The most prominent of these was the Sea Wall, which
forms the southern front of Brighton from Cannon Place to the west end of
Kemp Town. As early as 1799 the requirement of a wall at the foot of the
East Cliff, now the Marine Parade, to prevent the encroachments of the
sea, occupied the attention of the possessors of property in that
vicinity, as amongst the Conditions of Sale of the land for the purpose
of erecting the Royal Crescent,--sold by auction by Mr. Christie, at the
Old Ship Inn, Monday, September 16th, 1799,--was the following:--
If it shall be judged necessary to build a Sea-Wall under the Cliff,
for Use or Ornament, the Purchasers and Plot Holders of each Ground
Plot to contribute their Proportion for Building the same.
The building of the Crescent commenced forthwith; but, in consequence of
one of the most prominent of the speculators absconding, the whole of the
houses were not completed until the end of December, 1807, at which
period the area in front of the Crescent measured four acres. No wall
was then considered necessary at the foot of the Cliff, but a dwarf wall
was built on the south side of the carriage road, in lieu of posts and
rails, which guarded in a most irregular manner the other portion of the
road-way from the Steine to Black-Rock. On widening the road as now
existing in consequence of the construction of the present massive
sea-wall, not only was the dwarf wall removed but the crown of the rise
of the road, which there ranged with the present paving of the Crescent,
was taken off, and the incline made on the turfed area, which was
considerably contracted by setting back the iron railings in a line with
the front of the other property immediately east and west.
A statue of the Prince of Wales, by Rossi, seven feet high, on an
ornamented pedestal, eleven feet high, was, in 1802, placed in front of
the Royal Crescent. His Royal Highness was represented as dressed in his
regimental uniform, with his arm extended towards the sea. The statue,
which was made of plaster, cost upwards of 300. In November, 1807, some
person broke off the fingers of the extended left hand. Eventually the
other arm with a portion of his mantle was knocked away, and in that
condition the mutilated figure was allowed to remain several years, till
becoming more and more unsightly from parties continually adding to its
disfigurement, it was removed.
Two incidents of a most melancholy character, in connexion with the Royal
Crescent, claim a record. The first was the death of a workman, named
Leggatt. He was engaged in forming the words "Royal Crescent" on the
tablet which surmounts the centre house, and had finished the S, when, on
stepping back to observe its agreement with the other letters, he
over-balanced himself, and, falling upon the iron railings below, he was
unfortunately killed. The other event was the death of a soldier, named
Charles Millegan, of the Second Battalion of the Coldstream Guards, which
occurred on Christmas night, 1835, he having accidentally fallen down the
Cliff from the Crescent wall. A stone to his memory, erected by the
privates of his battalion, in the north burial ground of St. Nicholas
Church, has the following inscription as a tribute of respect by his
comrades:--
Oft may the tear his green sod steep,
And sacred be the Soldier's sleep
Till time shall cease to run.
And ne'er beside his lonely grave
May Briton's pass and fail to crave
A blessing on the fallen brave,
For such was MILLEGAN.
The first section of the town Sea-Wall, that between Ship street and
Mahomed's--now Brill's Baths,--was constructed in 1825. Then followed the
execution of the difficult enterprise, the union of the east and west
sea-drives and promenade, by the formation of the Junction Road round
Brill's Swimming Bath, and thence across the outlet of the Pool Valley,
and southing the Albion Hotel. To effect this great undertaking, the sea
had to be repelled, hence recourse was had to the erection of a series of
large groynes, and the facing of the wall, which is of concrete--a due
admixture of grey lime and shingle,--with piles and planking; and this
proceeding resulted in the sea being forced against the cliffs beyond the
Chain Pier, storm after storm making such inroads that in some places the
Marine Parade was not of sufficient width for a vehicle to pass. The
proprietors of houses along the Marine Parade, in consequence, became
alarmed for their property. The Commissioners therefore, took immediate
steps to prevent the incursions of the ocean, and numerous groynes, which
were erected between the Chain Pier and the Black-Rock groyne, having in
some measure answered the purpose of keeping back the raging water, a
plan was attempted to be carried out of forming a battering or leaning
wall of flint as a facing to the cliff, which was widened and filled in
as the wall progressed. The scheme, however, proved a fallacy; as the
amazing mass of unsettled earth with which it was backed up, having
become saturated with heavy rains, forced out the foot of the wall, the
whole of which slid out into the sea, or on the beach.
A concrete wall of amazing substance, was then substituted with the
greatest success, at a cost of 100,000, under contracts, by Mr. William
Lambert, an extensive builder of the town. In many parts, the wall--which
is in some places sixty feet high,--is twenty-three feet thick at its
base, and batters--inclines--on an average, four inches to the foot on the
face. More recently, other portions of the sea-front of the town have
been extended in width, by the same process, to admit of the increased
road traffic, so that Brighton may now boast of an uninterrupted
sea-drive and promenade of more than three miles' extent.
The other public structures erected by the Commissioners are the Market
and the Town Hall. The former is a lofty and commodious building,
standing principally on the site of the Old Workhouse and Town Hall. It
is T shaped, with the transverse head towards the east, opposite the Town
Hall, a building which occupies the space whereon, till the erection of
the new structure, the Market formerly stood. The corner stone of the
Town Hall was laid in April, 1830, by Thomas Read Kemp, Esq., the
contractor for the building being Mr. Doubleday, whose tender was 12,491
1s. 7d. The cost, however, of the building, from the various hewings,
hackings, and cuttings, which it has undergone, has exceeded, at a
moderate calculation, 60,000. It is after the plan of Mr. Thomas
Cooper, but it is minus a most important wing. This defect arose from
the Commissioners omitting to purchase land for the south portion, the
owner of the property refusing to sell after the building had pretty far
advanced. The consequence is that the approaches to the upper rooms of
the southern portion are wanting, and hence much inconvenience is
experienced.
The Town Hall is used for town meetings, public assemblies, the Council
meetings, and the general purposes of the Borough. In it are offices for
the Town Clerk--C. Sharood, Esq.,--and his staff, for the Collectors of the
Municipal and Parish Rates, and for the Borough Surveyor--Mr. Philip
Lockwood,--and his staff. The Magistrates' Court, which occupies the
southern basement, is likewise used for the Borough Quarter Sessions, the
Recorder being John Locke, Esq., Q.C., and M.P. for Southwark. The
police-force originally established on the 15th of April, 1830, under
Chief-Officer Pilbeam,--the Police Station then being in Steine Lane,--has
at present Mr. George White for the Chief-Constable, he having succeeded
Mr. Chase on the 21st of December, 1853, his predecessor,--who succeeded
Mr. Pilbeam,--Mr. Henry Solomon, having been murdered by John Lawrence, on
the 13th of March, 1844. The Superintendents are Mr. Owen Crowhurst and
Mr. Isaiah Barnden; and the Inspector of Flys, &c., is Mr. James Terry.
The force consists of 80 men,--inspectors, sergeants, and privates,--who
occupy the south-west portion of the basement, immediately contiguous to
the Magistrates' Court, the dungeons for the uncommitted and, perhaps,
innocent, being in the most remote portion of the underground vaults at
the north-east of the building.
Prior to the establishment of the Police-force the care of the town was
entrusted to a few Watchmen of the antique school, by night, and a Beadle
in cocked-hat and general suit of his order, by day, assisted by the Town
Crier of similar mien and garb. The Watchmen had succeeded the Patrol, a
species of self-guardianship which the inhabitants imposed upon
themselves in rotation, under the supervision of the High Constable and
his Headboroughs. During the Winter months it was also customary for a
bell-man to perambulate nightly most of the old streets of the town, and
hourly proclaim the time and weather. The stocks in the Market place,
and the parish pound at the back of the Old Church were then in vogue.
A portion of the principal room on the basement, to form the County
Court, is temporarily taken off by means of a partition, in two sections
which swing back on hinges to the side walls. The Court is held every
alternate Friday, William Furner, Esq., being the Judge. The only
residents of the building are Friend Paine--the Hall-Keeper,--and his wife.
Paine, at one time, was in himself the fire brigade of Brighton. Eight
men, whose peculiarity of costume for the office consisted in wearing
white hats, had previously been engaged to work the engines in the event
of any fires; but none occurring, the white-hatted force was dispensed
with, and eventually such an arrangement was made by the Town Council
with the Brighton, Hove, and Preston Constant Service Water Company, that
the fire-hose being fitted to plugs and standards in connexion with the
water-mains, the service of the fire-engines was dispensed with, the
position of the reservoir of the Company, on the Race Hill, giving a
pressure sufficiently strong to force the water over the highest edifices
in the town. In 1825, a Sussex County and General Fire and Life
Assurance Company was projected, with Mr. Barnard Gregory as Managing
Director. The office of this Company was on the premises in North Street
now well known as Folthorp's Royal Library, where, in front of the house,
a fire-engine, fire-escape, and other appropriate apparatus, were
prominently displayed. Firemen, bedight in the antique fittings of their
order in London, with silver-plated badge on their arms, bearing the
Brighton Arms,--two dolphins,--surmounted with SVX, and encircled with
"BRIGHTHELMSTON IN SIGILVM," and "SUSSEX COUNTY AND GENERAL FIRE AND LIFE
ASSURANCE COMPANY," perpetually showed themselves about the premises
which had been previously used as the Mess House of the officers of
regiments from time to time stationed at the Infantry Barracks, Church
Street. The career of the Company was very brief, and the exploits of
the firemen were confined to one fire only, namely, that at Major
Russell's mansion, Portland Place, September 12th, 1825, known in
Brighton,--where the great rage for building had then just set in,--as the
year of the panic. Kemp Town at that period, and for some few years
afterwards, was a town of carcasses, many of the houses being not only
floorless and windowless, but roofless.
In this district, but in the parish of Rottingdean,--to avoid the Brighton
coal dues,--the Brighton Old Gas Light and Coke Company erected their
works in 1818-19, much to the dissatisfaction of the inhabitants, who
petitioned Parliament on the 6th of May, 1818, against the introduction
of gas into the town. Some considerable time elapsed before it was much
used for in-door lighting, persons, in general, having a fear of
explosions. For illuminating it was first used on the 12th of August,
1819, when, to oblige the Company, Mr. Stone, shoemaker to His Royal
Highness the Prince Regent, gave them permission to fit up, at their own
expense, over his shop in East Street, at the corner of Steine Lane, a
design--the Prince of Wales' Feathers,--in gas, the effect of which excited
the wonder and admiration of the whole town, and completely reconciled
the inhabitants to the use of gas.
As early as 1806 the Incorporation of the town was mooted, and on the 2nd
of July, that year, a meeting of the inhabitants, at which the Vicar, the
Rev. R. Carr, presided, took place at the Old Ship, respecting a
communication which had been made from the Prince of Wales to Sir Henry
Rycroft, on the subject. The meeting was numerously and respectably
attended, and the subject was ably and dispassionately discussed. After
a debate of several hours, the Incorporation by Charter was unanimously
negatived, and an address of thanks was voted to His Royal Highness for
his condescension, and the kind interest which he took in the welfare of
the inhabitants of the town. During the meeting it was announced that
the Prince had no particular desire that the Incorporation by Charter
should be adopted, unless the inhabitants should conceive that such a
measure would promote their interests; and that any other mode which they
might better approve of, for the impartial administration of justice in
the place, should be honoured with his Royal sanction.
The subject of Incorporation then remained dormant till about the year
1852, when, the inhabitants thinking that Brighton was of sufficient
importance to be placed on an equality with other towns of like
population and influence, agitated for a Charter. The opposition of the
old governing body was very great, and the "tug of war" continued, each
party contending and hoping most zealously. At length the contenders for
the Incorporation prevailed, and the Charter under the Municipal Act, and
bearing date, April 1st, 1854, was granted. In 1860, in order to remedy
many known defects, the Local Government Act of 1858, was adopted, after
a severe contest. The Corporation consists of the Mayor, the Recorder,
12 Aldermen, and 36 Councillors, six for each Ward, the Wards being the
Park Ward, Pavilion Ward, Pier Ward, St. Peter's Ward, St. Nicholas'
Ward, and West Ward. The Magistracy consists of the Mayor, the last
ex-Mayor, the Recorder, the Stipendiary Magistrate,--at present A. Bigge,
Esq.,--and other Magistrates whose appointments are sanctioned by the
Secretary of State for the Home Department. The present Magistrates are,
His Worship the Mayor, J. Allfree, Esq., J. C. Burrows, Esq., W. Catt,
Esq., J. Fawcett, Esq., W. Furner, Esq., W. M. Hollis, Esq., M. D. Scott,
Esq., B. Stent, Esq., W. F. Smithe, Esq., T. Warner, Esq., and W. Alger,
Esq., who also acts in that capacity by virtue of being the last
ex-Mayor. Ewen Evershed, Esq., is the Clerk of the Peace. The Mayors
hitherto, have been:--
1854.--Lieut.-Col. Fawcett.
1855.--W. Hallett, Esq.
1856.--I. G. Bass, Esq.
1857.--J. C. Barrows, Esq.
1858.--J. C. Burrows, Esq.
1859.--W. Alger, Esq.
1860.--W. Alger, Esq.
1861.--H. Smithers, Esq.
The great increase of the population during the course of the last
hundred years, is the surest criterion, whereby to judge of the rapid
progress of the town:--
In 1761 the population of Brighton was 2,000
1786 3,600
1794 5,669
1801 {249} 7,339
1811 12,012
1821 24,429
1831 40,634
1841 46,661
1851 65,573
1861 77,693
Brighton had, comparatively speaking, stood aloof from politics till the
passing of the Reform Bill, in 1832, the inhabitants, not being
free-holders, having had no voice in framing the House of Commons. Under
the fostering wing of George IV. Brighton could not be otherwise than
Tory; but the Royal Patron of the town being dead and his successor
William IV. possessing different political views to his deceased brother,
and others besides the aborigines having taken up their abode in
Brighton, diversities of political opinions arose, and hence, on the
first election of Members for the Borough there was opposition.
The following have been the polling results of the elections to the
present date:--
December 11th and 12th, 1832.
Isaac Newton Wigney, Esq. 873
George Faithfull, Esq. 722
Captain G. R. Pechell, R.N. 613
William Crawford, Esq. 391
Sir Adolphus James Dalrymple, Bart. 32
January 8th and 9th, 1835:--
Captain Pechell 961
I. N. Wigney, Esq. 523
Sir A. Dalrymple 483
G. Faithfull, Esq. 467
July, 25th, 1837:--
Captain Pechell 1083
Sir A. Dalrymple 819
I. N. Wigney, Esq. 801
G. Faithfull, Esq. 183
July 1st, 1841:--
Captain Pechell 1443
I. N. Wigney, Esq. 1235
Sir A. Dalrymple 872
Mr C. Brooker 19
May 6th, 1842, on the Bankruptcy of Mr.
Wigney:--
Lord Alfred Hervey 1277
Summers Harford, Esq. 640
Mr. C. Brooker 16
July 30th, 1847:--
Captain Pechell 1571
Lord A. Hervey 1230
W. Coningham, Esq. 886
July 8th, 1852:--
Sir G. Pechell 1924
Lord A. Hervey 1431
J. S. Trelawney 1173
J. Ffooks 119
Upon Lord A. Hervey's appointment as a Lord
of the Treasury, under the Derby
Administration, his re-election took place on
the 4th of January, 1853, without opposition.
March 20th, 1857:--
Sir G. Pechell 2278
W. Coningham, Esq. 1900
Lord A. Hervey 1080
April 30th, 1859:--
Sir G. Pechell 2322
W. Coningham, Esq. 2106
Sir A. MacNab 1327
July 16th, 1860, inconsequence of the death
of Sir George Pechell
J. White, Esq. 1588
H. Moor, Esq. 1242
F. D. Goldsmid, Esq. 571
CHAPTER XXVI.
THE MARINE PAVILION AND ITS OCCUPANTS.
The ascendency of Brighton over every other marine resort in the kingdom
may be regarded as having been established by the attachment to the town
of His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, George IV., who in 1782--when
he was about twenty years of age,--honoured it for the first time with his
presence on the occasion of his visit to his uncle, the Duke of
Cumberland, who then occupied Grove House. The auspicious event was
celebrated by the inhabitants with a general illumination, every pane of
glass in the town displaying a candle stuck in a lump of clay, the
primitive style of candlestick for illuminations before coloured glass
well oil-lamps, called Coronation Lamps, came into vogue, previous to the
adoption of gas.
The following year the Prince repeated the visit, occupying the house
adjoining Grove House, belonging to Thomas Kemp, Esq., of whom it was
subsequently purchased by his Royal Highness. This house formed the
nucleus of the Marine Pavilion, the erection of which commenced in 1784,
and the building was completed in 1787. At this period a barn stood out
abruptly in East Street, at the corner of North Street, but as it
incommoded the public drive it was taken down, and a handsome house,--the
original of the present north-east corner of North Street,--was erected at
the rear of its site, by Mr. Hall, surgeon. The other dwellings,
northward to Carlisle House, were then built. The east or sea front of
the Pavilion, which extended about 200 feet, consisted of a circular
building in the centre supported by stone Doric pillars, and crowned with
a dome, and on each side there was a range of bow-fronted apartments one
story high above the basement, with balconies and verandahs. The
entrance front was towards East Street. It consisted of a plain main
building to which, in 1802, were added two projecting wings, that formed
a square fore-court, in the centre of which was a handsome sun-dial,
supported by the figure of a negro that was much admired for its beauty
of design and accuracy of sculpture.
Immediately north of the Pavilion was Marlborough House, the property and
residence of the Duke and Duchess of Marlborough. It was a massive
square building of brick, two stories high, and a part of the east front
formed a noble bow having three windows on each floor. There were six
windows also on each floor in this front besides those in the bow. A
range of nine windows on each floor faced the north. The northern
boundary wall of Marlborough House was in a direct line with the present
southern wall of the Pavilion Stables, and the cluster of elms on the
gentle mound just north of the present Pavilion marks the site of the
Duke's residence, which was a temple of benevolence and charity, the poor
and needy, daily participating in his bounty. The following extracts
from the _Morning Herald_ will show that his Grace's good deeds to the
poor extended over a series of years:--
BRIGHTON, August 10th, 1796.--The Duke and Duchess of Marlborough,
with their household, leave here on the 17th inst. Six weeks is
generally the time for their Graces' residence here, but this summer
they have overstopped their stay. The Duke of Marlborough's
liberality affords a good and generous lesson to the other nobility
who occasionally reside here; for the victuals and milk (the latter a
scarce article in this town), that is left amongst the household, is
distributed every morning, in parcels, to the poor of the place; a
good day's provision for several fishermen's wife and children.
August 18th, 1806.--The Duke and Duchess of Marlborough and Lady A.
Spencer seemed greatly to enjoy, from the windows of Marlborough
House, the parade of the South Gloucester Militia on the Level.--A
crowd of the indigent inhabitants of this place, from the kitchen of
Marlborough House, returned with smiling faces, and aprons, &c., well
filled with provisions, to their families, at an early hour this
morning.
The entrance of Marlborough House was to the west, where the road formed
the public way from East Street to Marlborough Row, which consisted of
nine houses, whereof North House--that now contiguous to the northern
entrance of the Pavilion Grounds--was No. 9. It was a boulder-fronted
house, having adjoining it to the north, Coupland's blacksmith's shop,
with three horse-shoes on a board adorning its front. These premises
projected from the front line of the south side of Church Street; and,
connected with them, were the dwelling-houses of Mr. Coupland and Mr.
Beattie, and Beattie's donkey stables, the whole group of buildings, for
many years after the Pavilion and Grounds became royal property,
disgracing the approach to the Sovereign's residence and destroying the
uniformity of the street. Eventually, the town purchased the property,
and it was then wholly cleared away. The other houses of Marlborough Row
were cant-bow fronted and were approached by four steps each. They were
principally lodging-houses; but in 1800, No. 2,--opposite Marlborough
House,--was in the occupation of Mr. John Wymark, baker, and in September,
that year, on the occasion of a fire breaking out upon his premises, on a
Saturday night, the Prince of Wales received the unfortunate family, and
exerted himself in protecting their goods, which were taken for safety
into the Pavilion.
The grounds attached to the Royal Pavilion and Marlborough House were,
originally, of very limited proportions, those to the east front
consisting only of a narrow lawn west of a direct line northward from the
east front of the houses that form the north-east corner of Castle
Square, on the Steine. But in consideration of the Prince and the Duke
constructing in 1793, the sewer to carry off the stream which flooded the
Steine in winter, the Lords of the Manor,--Brighthelmston-Lewes--with
consent of the homage, gave them permission to enclose a certain portion
of the Steine,--the Marlborough Steine, as it was termed,--adjoining their
houses respectively; but never to build or encumber it with anything that
might obstruct the prospect, or be any way a nuisance to the Steine. The
ground then taken in was parted from the Steine by park palings, and
posts and rails were put along the outer side to form a foot-way for the
public.