Pavilion property to the south, of Mr. Weltjie, but no important
improvements were undertaken until the following year, when, His Royal
Highness having purchased the Elm Grove Gardens, the permission of the
inhabitants was given him to enclose the old London Road, which ran
direct northward from the top of East Street, on his making the New Road
at his own expense. By this alteration, the Grove, and the shrubberies
and pleasure-grounds of the Duke of Marlborough, which he likewise
purchased, became united with the Pavilion Grounds.
The Promenade Grove or Public Gardens, which were under the particular
patronage of the Prince of Wales, occupied the space of the present
Pavilion Grounds, directly south of the Royal Stables, as also the site
of the stables, and were approached by way of Prince's Place, an arched
gateway occupying the space whereon stand the premises now occupied as
the First Sussex Volunteer Rifle Orderly Room. Prince's Place was
intended chiefly for the accommodation of the London tradesmen who came
to Brighton with their wares for the season. An enclosed shrubbery of
small dimensions occupied the centre of the open space, and the carriage
drive was about it.
The gardens were surrounded with large overspreading elms, hence the name
of the Grove, and in the hottest day of Summer a luxuriantly refreshing
shade was afforded the fashionable promenaders who supported by
subscription the establishment, which was open every day during the
season. On Wednesdays a public breakfast was provided, when a band of
music attended, and played at proper intervals select pieces of music.
The breakfasts, when the weather was fine, were well attended, and
boasted of all the elegance and the fashion in Brighton. Parties also,
at other times went there to breakfast, drink tea, take
refreshments--which were provided in abundance,--read the papers, &c. It
possessed a well-appointed saloon, fitted up in an elegant style:
adjoining which was an octagon-shaped orchestra. On particular nights
the Gardens were brilliantly illuminated, and displays of fireworks were
given; at which times the admissions were half-a-crown, and the
entertainments were conducted with the greatest order and decorum. Upon
stripping the walls of the house formerly inhabited by Mr. Johnson,
recently purchased by Mr. Bradley, in Bond Street, a bill, having
reference to these Gardens, and printed as follows, was brought to
light:--
Under the patronage of His Royal Highness
THE PRINCE OF WALES.
PROMENADE GROVE.
The Nobility, Gentry, and Public are respectfully informed
that there will be
ON THURSDAY EVENING, AUGUST 8TH, 1802,
A GRAND CONCERT,
of
VOCAL AND INSTRUMENTAL MUSIC.
After which a
MAGNIFICENT DISPLAY OF FIRE-WORKS.
Designs and Fire-works by
MR. MORTRAM.
By Permission of Colonel Jones, the Band of the
18th Dragoons will perform on the Lawn.
Admission at Half-past Seven; Concert at Eight, and
Fire-works at Nine O'clock.
_Managers_,--
MESSRS. VERNEY AND JOHNSON.
The Promenade Grove, as a place of public entertainment, closed with a
Grand Gala, which terminated with the spectacle of the eruption of Mount
Vesuvius, on the 19th of September, 1802.
In 1805, the Royal Stables were commenced, after the plan and under the
direction of Mr. Porden. They may be reckoned as the first great
architectural work in Brighton. The centre of the building which
supports the dome is circular, and contains a spacious reservoir of water
for the stables which surround it. In this circular area the doors of
various stables, comprising sixty-two stalls, open. Somewhat elevated, a
gallery leads, by way of two staircases, to the several apartments of the
servants required about the stables. The circumference of this spacious
building is 250 feet, and the dome which surmounts it is nearly of the
magnitude of that of St. Paul's Cathedral, London. On the west side is
the magnificent Riding School, 200 feet long and 50 broad; and eastward
of the dome was a spacious Tennis Court. The Parochial Offices occupy
much of this latter space, which had previously, by order of William IV.,
been added to the stables, a blank screen front to the east giving the
buildings an appearance of uniformity. There are two grand entrances to
the stables, the one from Church Street, through a lofty archway which
enters into a spacious square court, containing the coach-houses,
carriage-horse stables, and general offices. A similar archway leads to
the circular dome, opposite to which is a corresponding entrance from the
Pavilion lawn. On the east and west sides of the circle are similar
archways leading to the Riding School and the Tennis Ground.
The neglected state of these premises is a disgrace as well to the nation
as to the town; for while Englishmen pride themselves on the vaunted
greatness of their country, such is the reduced condition of her military
resources that she is compelled to beg house-room of the civil
authorities for the accommodation of her soldiers, in a town where two
ranges of barracks are inadequate to the requirements of a single
regiment. The Town Council are bound in justice to the ratepayers to
appropriate the premises to purposes for which little or no provision is
made. The Courts of Justice in Brighton are libels on the name; the
police accommodation is meagre in the extreme, persons only suspected of
a crime being placed in underground dungeons similar to which criminals
convicted of the darkest crimes would not by any British Government be
permitted to be consigned; and while other towns with less pretensions to
greatness than Brighton have their Public Baths and Wash-houses, these
premises, which may be easily converted on a small outlay to meet all the
requirements alluded to, are permitted to be illegally let and grossly
misapplied, to the detriment of the property and the inconvenience of the
inhabitants.
The most memorable event, in connexion with the Royal Stables, was the
celebration of the Jubilee of the Fiftieth Year of the Reign of George
III., by Mr. Philip Mighell feasting 2,000 of the poorest inhabitants of
the town, by permission of the Prince of Wales, in the Royal Riding Room,
on Wednesday, October the 25th 1809. The following is a copy of the
letter to Mr. Mighell, conveying the sanction of His Royal Highness:--
Pavilion, Brighton, Oct. 20th, 1809.
Sir,--I am commanded by the Prince of Wales, to acquaint you that His
Royal Highness will have great satisfaction in affording the
accommodation of his Riding House upon the happy occasion to which
your letter refers, and which His Royal Highness sees in a most
laudable view.
Sir, your Obedt Servt.,
BENJ. BLOOMFIELD. {257}
P. Mighell, Esq.
The eventful day was ushered in by the ringing of bells, the British Flag
majestically waving on the venerable tower of St. Nicholas' Church, to
which place of Divine Worship the Freemasons of the Royal Clarence Lodge,
and their visiting brethren from the neighbouring Lodges, proceeded in
procession, about eleven o'clock, the Band of the South Gloucester
Militia taking the lead, and announcing their approach by their harmony.
An appropriate sermon was preached by the Rev. Mr. Tilt; at the
conclusion of which--there being then no organ in the church,--the
Musicians of the Prince of Wales's Band performed the Coronation Anthem.
At one o'clock a royal salute was fired from the Battery, and it was
repeated by a gun-brig, then lying off the town. About half-past one
o'clock the doors of the Royal Riding House, in Church Street, were
thrown open for the admission of the benevolent Mr. Mighell's party, in
number about two thousand three hundred, exclusive of a hundred stewards,
who assisted upon the occasion. The greatest order and decorum prevailed
throughout the feast; everybody was happy, and not an unpleasant incident
occurred to mar the harmony of the proceedings. Mr. Phillips, of the New
Inn Hotel, who was afterwards known as Jubilee Phillips, had the
management of the dinner, the potatoes for which were a gift, and were
dug from Mr. Mighell's garden,--whereon now stands Queen Square,--by his
nephew, Mr. Richard Mighell, at present of Albany Villas, Cliftonville.
In the farm-yard of Mr. Scrase, about three hundred yards from the Riding
House, fifteen hundred poor persons were also dined, at the expense of a
party of gentlemen, who opened a subscription for the same benevolent
purpose, and similar order and harmony prevailed. On retiring,--which
they did about five o'clock,--the grateful recipients gave expression to
their loyalty, and invoked blessings on Mr. Mighell and their other
liberal friends. The Freemasons dined in their Lodge Room, at the Old
Ship--then kept by Mr. John Hicks,--where, also, in the evening, was a Ball
and Supper.
In 1803, the Prince purchased property in Castle Square, adjoining the
old stables, and year by year, till 1806, constant additions and
improvements were made to His Royal Highness's property. Castle Square,
just at its junction with North Street, was, in July 1811, the scene of
the last punishment by the pillory in Brighton. The culprit was a man
named Fuller, a native of Lewes; at the petty Sessions of which
town--Brighton then having no bench of magistrates,--he was convicted of
passing at Brighton a two-penny for a two-pound note. The structure of
the pillory was upon a platform raised about ten feet from the ground.
It consisted of a frame connected with an upright pillar, around which it
revolved, and was made with holes and folding boards, through which the
head and hands of the criminal were put, and from twelve to one o'clock
he continued to take the circuit of an area of about eighteen feet
diameter, under the superintendence of Mr. Harry Colbron, the High
Constable, who, with his Headboroughs, escorted their prisoner to the
place of punishment from the King and Queen Inn, to which house he had
been brought from Lewes by the authorities of the House of Correction. A
great concourse of the inhabitants assembled to witness the punishment,
which was conducted by Catling, the beadle. The stage and pillory were
constructed by Messrs. Colbron and Saunders.
In 1814, the Prince purchased Marlborough House; and the same year the
houses and shops on the north side of Castle Square, and the whole of the
old stables and coach-houses between the south side of the Pavilion, and
terminating in a line with the bottom of North Street, were pulled down,
and a noble range of domestic offices was erected on the site.
Immediately north of the stables were the residence and grounds of Mr.
Louis Weltjie, Clerk of the Prince's Kitchen. A portion of his
brick-fronted house still remains, just within the southern entrance of
the Pavilion Grounds. Weltjie and his wife were Germans, who had saved
money while in the service of several of the nobility, and they invested
it in the purchase of the property which they afterwards disposed of to
the Prince, who reposed such confidence in Weltjie, that in December,
1788, upon His Royal Highness being--as was his perpetual condition,--in
pecuniary embarrassment, and it had been determined by himself and his
royal brothers, the Duke of York and the Duke of Clarence,--who were also
in difficulties,--to speculate upon the prince's accession to power in
consequence of the afflicting malady of their royal father, George III.,
Weltjie was selected as one of a party to effect a negociation in
England, Ireland, and Scotland, of some post-obit bonds. Weltjie,
however, fearing the consequences, withdrew from the project by
introducing two persons of property and extensive money connexions, one
of whom on the 16th of that month, perfected a bargain secured by the
three royal brothers, for 30,000, payable when a _certain event_ should
take place. The bonds went into "The Market," and the witless purchasers
who had obtained them at a premium, being afraid to acknowledge that they
held any such obligations,--inasmuch as by anticipating the death of the
sovereign they subjected the parties to all the penalties of petty
treason,--their redemption was never claimed. Annexed is a copy of the
bond referred to:--
KNOW ALL men by these presents that We, George Prince of Wales,
Frederick Duke of York, and William Henry Duke of Clarence, all
living in the City of Westminster, in the County of Middlesex, are
jointly and severally, justly and truly indebted to John Cator, of
Beckenham, in the County of Kent, Esquire, and his executors,
administrators, and assigns, in the penal sum of Sixty Thousand
Pounds of good and lawful money of Great Britain, well and truly paid
to us at or before the sealing of these presents. Sealed with our
seals this 16th day of December, in the 29th year of the reign of our
Sovereign Lord George III., by the Grace of God, King, Defender of
the Faith, Anno Domini 1788.
The condition of the above obligation is such, that if the above
bounden George Prince of Wales, Frederick Duke of York, and William
Henry Duke of Clarence, or any or either of them, or any other of
their heirs, executors, or administrators, shall well and truly pay
or cause to be paid unto the above-named John Cator, his executors,
administrators, and assigns, the full sum of Thirty Thousand Pounds
of lawful money of Great Britain, within the space or time of six
calendar months next after any one or either of us, the said George
Prince of Wales, Frederick Duke of York, and William Henry Duke of
Clarence, shall come to and ascend the throne of England, together
with lawful interest on the same, to be computed from the day that
such event shall happen, up and home to the time of paying-off this
obligation, then and in such case, the same shall be null and void;
otherwise to be and remain in full force and virtue.
GEORGE PRINCE OF WALES, *
FREDERICK, *
WILLIAM HENRY, *
Witnesses,
ANDREW ROBENSON,
CHARLES BICKNELL.
In May, 1813. at a Court Baron of the Manor,--Brighthelmston-Lewes,--leave
was given to the Prince Regent {260} to extend the fence which surrounded
the Marlborough domains to the Royal Mews, and in 1815 His Royal Highness
erected the lower section of the east and north boulder-fronted wall,
placing on it the dwarf palisading that now crowns it, as raised to its
present height; and in 1817 Marlborough Row became the Prince's property,
and its site was added to the Royal Domain, which was then made to occupy
an area of about seven acres.
Prior to 1817, the royal visitors to the Prince of Wales had been his
Royal Consort, the Princess of Wales, in August, 1795, his daughter, the
Princess Charlotte, July 27th, 1807, his brothers, the Dukes of Sussex,
York, Clarence, Kent, Cumberland, and Cambridge, and their Royal Mother,
Queen Charlotte, who paid her only visit to Brighton, accompanied by the
Princesses Elizabeth and Mary, on the 24th of October, 1814, and they
continued their stay till the 29th of that month, during which period Her
Majesty graciously ordered the distribution of 50 to the poor, and
became, with a liberal donation, the Patroness of the Dollar Society for
the relief of the indigent. The Princesses were also donors to the
Society. The foreign potentates who had been visitors were the Emperor
of Russia and the King of Prussia. Various princes of the crowned heads
of Europe had also paid their respects to the Prince, whose companions
were the elite, if not the most dissolute of the nobility of the day. So
notorious, in fact, were the doings at the Pavilion, that Lord Chancellor
Thurlow, himself not the purest in conduct nor the most refined in
manners, refrained from calling upon the Prince. One day, while walking
on the Steine, his Lordship was met by His Royal Highness, in company
with Lord Barrymore, Sir John Lade, {261a} and other like companions.
"Thurlow," said the Prince, "how is it that you have not called on me?
You must name a day when you will dine with me." Lord Thurlow, casting a
look round upon the Prince's friends, said, "I cannot do so until your
Royal Highness keeps better company." Lord Thurlow died of the gout at
Brighton, on the 12th of September, 1806, his dying words being, "I'm
shot if I don't believe I'm dying."
Amongst the most notorious of the Prince's companions were the brothers
Barrymore, the eldest,--who had been ordained to the church,--being known
amongst them, for his irreligious propensities, as Hellgate; the second,
for his immorality, Newgate; and the third, for his lameness,
Cripplegate. The latter was the survivor of the infamous trio, his
infirmities not permitting him to indulge in the vices which prematurely
terminated the career of his brothers. They had a sister, who surpassed
them in evil qualifications, and she bore, for her coarse volubility, the
nickname of Billingsgate. Another of the _clique_ was Colonel Hanger,
familiarly known as George Hanger, the Knight of the Black Diamond, the
wit and satirist of the party. His Life, {261b} written by himself,
abounds with sarcasms and truisms, but though designed to "point a
moral," it does not "adorn a tale," that teems with sensualities. Upon
one occasion Sheridan and Hanger were dining in the room of the old
building where the Prince usually dined, termed by them, in consequence
of its contracted dimensions and generally excessively heated condition,
the Royal Oven. In the course of the meal Sheridan said, "How do you
feel yourself, Hanger?" "Hot, hot;--hot as h--l," replied Hanger. "It is
quite right," was Sheridan's severe rejoinder, "we should be prepared in
this world for that which we know will be our lot in another." Reckless
roistering and inconsiderate practical joking were the delight of the
Pavilion party, the hours of the night being principally the time when
they immoderately enjoyed themselves. Upon one occasion, on a dark
evening, they procured a coffin, and having put into it something
resembling a corpse, dressed in a shroud, they stood it on end, without a
lid, in front of the door of a tradesman's house, at which they knocked,
and then hid away. On the servant "answering the door," as it is termed,
the light of the candle in her hand displayed the spectre-like figure,
which so frightened the poor girl that she shrieked and fainted. The
inmates of the house, taking the alarm, ran to the door, and were equally
terror-stricken. Cries of help quickly brought to their assistance many
neighbours; but the concoctors of the joke had taken the precaution to
fix to the handles of the coffin a strong rope, by means of which they,
with little trouble, drew away the cause of the alarm; and there being
thus nothing left to be frightened at, the inmates of the house became,
for some time, laughing stocks for their credulity.
The numerous tricks practised upon the townsfolk did not in the least
offend them, as in the event of any damage being done, that could be
recompensed in a pecuniary way, the greatest liberality was always shown;
in fact, the inhabitants had found that Royalty was the staple article
upon which they existed, and they so assimilated their ideas with their
position, that their chief fears were that they might by some
inadvertence or mischance give the Prince offence, hence His Royal
Highness was their chief study. The feeling, however, was graciously
reciprocated by the Royal visitor, as exhibited upon the occasion of the
anniversary of the birthday of His Royal Highness, August 12th, 1806--and
it was generally so on like events--when a deputation of the inhabitants
presented to the Prince the following address, to which every householder
of note had previously subscribed his name:--
To his Royal Highness the Prince of Wales,
We, the Ministers, High Constable, Churchwardens, Overseers, and
principal Inhabitants of the Town of Brighthelmston, with the most
grateful recollection of the many gracious instances of your Royal
Highness's patronage conferred upon us, to which alone are to be
attributed that prosperity and those advantages unfelt by, and
unknown to, any other Provincial Town, most humbly approach your
Royal Highness, to express the dutiful and thankful sentiments which
this recollection inspires, and more particularly calls forth on the
anniversary of this day. While we entreat your Royal Highness to
accept these our humble acknowledgments and congratulations, we
devoutly implore the Supreme Disposer of all events long to preserve
a life so invaluable to us, to whom your immediate protection is so
liberally dispensed, and so dear and important in its general
consequences to the nation at large.
His Royal Highness replied:--
Gentlemen,
Accept my best thanks for this Address. Be assured that I feel a
lively interest in the prosperity of this place, and shall ever
promote its welfare as far as lies in my power.
GEORGE, _Prince_.
It has hitherto, in general, passed current, that the predilection of the
Prince of Wales for Brighton arose from the combination of the extent of
the marine view which the town commanded, the salubrity of the place, and
the great superiority of its sea-bathing; in confirmation of which last
attraction prints are extant representing, of life size, Martha Gunn, the
bather, bearing in her arms a naked "four-year old" baby, purporting to
represent the youthful form of His Royal Highness, about to undergo the
process of dipping; whereas it is well known that he had attained the age
of a score of years before he first visited Brighton. The portrait of
Martha no doubt is correct, but the infant in her arms is but an adjunct
to distinguish her from the fish women, whose costume at that period was
similar to the female bather. The Royal Bathing Machine, which for some
years was so conspicuous on the beach at the bottom of the Steine, was
that used by the Prince when he bathed under the guidance of Smoaker
Miles, at the bottom of Russell street. It finished its days at the
Steine, whither it was removed for the transit of His Royal Highness
along the sand, at low-water, to the boat that conveyed him to and from
the Royal yacht, which, during the temporary abode of the Prince in
Brighton, was usually stationed, with a convoy of two ships of war, off
Brighton, at the moorings, which were laid down and marked by buoys about
six miles from the shore. The Royal machine was retained at the Steine,
amongst the ladies' bathing machines, as it was much in request by the
gentler sex, who were always anxious to occupy the machine from whence
the Prince had taken a "header," or travelled to his yacht.
Much, in the way of anecdote, has been transmitted to us orally,
respecting Martha Gunn, especially in reference to the Prince and the
Pavilion; but, besides being a bather little of her life is known. In a
rare work, "A Donkey Tour to Brighton," {264} occurs the
following:--"'What, my old friend, Martha,' said I, 'still queen of the
ocean, still industrious, and busy as ever; and how do you find
yourself?'--'Well and hearty, thank God, Sir,' replied she, 'but rather
hobbling. I don't bathe, because I a'nt so strong as I used to be, so I
superintend on the beach, for I'm up before any of 'em; you may always
find me and my pitcher, at one exact spot, every morning by six
o'clock.'--'You wear vastly well, my old friend, pray what age may you
be?'--'Only eighty-eight, Sir; in fact, eighty-nine come next Christmas
pudding; aye, and though I've lost my teeth, I can mumble it with as good
relish and hearty appetite as anybody.'--'I'm glad to hear it; Brighton
would not look like itself without you, Martha,' said I.--'Oh, I don't
know, it's like to do without me, some day,' answered she, 'but while
I've health and life, I must be bustling amongst my old friends and
benefactors; I think I ought to be proud, for I've as many bows from man,
woman, and child, as the Prince hisself; aye, I do believe, the very dogs
in the town know me.'--'And your son, how is he?' said I.--'Brave and
charming, he lives in East Street; if your honour wants any prime pickled
salmon, or oysters, there you have 'em.'--I promised her I'd be a
customer; she made me a low curtsey, and I left her hobbling to the side
of the London coach, to deliver cards from the repository of her poor
withered, sea-freckled bosom; for, like a woman of fashion, her bosom was
her pocket."
The Prince of Wales had an unbounded propensity for gallantry, and his
companions of broken fortunes about him ingratiated themselves in his
favour by pandering to his evil propensities. The Pavilion of Brighton,
therefore, being secluded, was chosen as his favourite resort, whereto
were brought the mistresses of his passions; and such a notoriety did the
building attain that it was commonly spoken of as "the residence having
at one end a harem, and at the other a chapel." An incident of one of
his early visits to Brighton will exhibit his irresistance of temptation.
His Royal Highness, while walking on the beach, was struck with the
beauty of a nymph who was reclining by one of the groynes. Her name was
Charlotte Fortescue, an illiterate female, who counteracted her defective
educational qualifications by artifice and intrigue, and by her art she
threw such an air of simplicity and innocence over her actions as to hide
the real nature of her character from the Prince, whose exalted position
she soon discovered. Again and again he met her; and believed that he
had gained her confidence. Tears suffused her cheeks as she spoke of a
marriage to which she was about to be forced, that would take her from
her native country. The Prince eventually proposed an elopement, and in
order to give a romantic air to the affair, it was arranged that the
dress of a footman was to be procured for his frail fugitive, and that
His Royal Highness that evening should have his phton in waiting a few
miles on the London Road, to bear away his prize. However, while the
Prince was dressing for dinner, Colonel Hanger, who had just commenced
his life of profligacy, was announced. At dinner the Prince excused
himself upon having to leave them early, as he had most important
business to transact that night in the metropolis. Hanger spoke of
having left there that morning in search of a girl for whom he had
provided private apartments in London, and remarked, "The hussy takes it
into her head every now and then to absent herself for a few days; and I
have now been given to understand that she is carrying on some intrigue
with a fellow at this place. Let me but catch him, and I will souse him
over head and ears in the sea." A little explanation sufficed to
convince them both that the runaway was none other than the female with
whom the Prince was so smitten, and it was arranged, in order to outwit
her, that Hanger should put on one of the coats in which she had been
occasioned to see her Royal lover, and take his seat on the coach-box,
instead of the Prince. That night Hanger bore off his mistress to
London, much to her chagrin that the romantic elopement should have such
an unexpected termination, as the manner in which His Royal Highness
travelled, one horse before the others, the first ridden by a postilion,
and himself managing the other two, prevented a recognition till the
female footman descended from the "dicky," in London. The imposition
terminated their intimacy.
To detail the numerous acts of gallantry of the Prince and his associates
would in nowise add to the improvement and enlightenment of the present
age; nor is it necessary to give a biographical sketch or even a list of
all his companions. His connexion, however, with Mrs. Fitzherbert {266}
demands some mention to be made of that excellent lady who received the
most cordial kindness and formal honours from the first families of
distinction in the land. The Royal Marriage Act, which passed soon after
the commencement of the reign of George III., in consequence of the
marriage of the Duke of Cumberland with Mrs. Horton, and the Duke of
Gloucester with the Countess of Waldegrave, declared that the descendants
of George II., except the offspring of such of the Princes, as were
married to, or might marry foreign Princesses, were incapable of marrying
till the age of five-and-twenty years, without His Majesty's consent
previously obtained; or after the age of five-and-twenty, in the event of
His Majesty's refusal, without the consent of both Houses of Parliament.
The marriage, then, between the Prince of Wales and Mrs. Fitzherbert,
which Horne Tooke declared did take place, inasmuch as he was acquainted
with the English clergyman who performed the solemn ceremony on the 21st
of December, 1785, was null and void. Mr. Fox, in the House of Commons,
denied that there had been marriage; but his denial was an act of
expediency, as, according to the Act of William III., the admitted
marriage of the Prince of Wales would have prevented his taking upon
himself the Regency of the country, as the people, from his having
married a Papist, would have been absolved from their allegiance.
Amongst the real friends of the Prince his connexion with Mrs.
Fitzherbert was an event of much gratification; for irregular as might
have been its nature, it preserved him from the vulgar propensities to
which he had been previously prone. Dowers and legacies of two previous
marriages qualified her to command all the elegancies of fashionable
life, and to perform many noble acts of charity. A separation only took
place in 1795, when the Prince was about to marry (for the payment of his
debts), the unfortunate Caroline of Brunswick. In such high esteem was
she held by the Royal Family that upon William the IV. ascending the
throne, he, with his Royal Consort, Queen Adelaide, paid her numerous
visits of courtesy. The remains of Mrs. Fitzherbert, upon her decease,
27th March, 1837, were deposited in a vault beneath the Roman Catholic
Church, St. George's Road, where a handsome marble monument, by Carew,
has been erected to her memory. Her age was eighty-one.
Some romantic notion gave forth the rumour that a subterranean
communication existed between the Royal Pavilion and Mrs Fitzherbert's
house, on the Steine. A greater fallacy never gained credence. All that
she possessed, connected in any way with the estate, were the stables in
the New Road, immediately north of the row of trees which bounds the
Pavilion Grounds on the east. These stables--erected in 1806--are now used
as the chief dept of the Borough Fire Brigade, under Inspector
Quartermain. They were immediately contiguous to the Burial Ground of
the Society of Friends,--now the Corporation premises for depositing the
Town Surveyor's materials,--and for a window in the stables that
overlooked the ground Mrs. Fitzherbert paid one penny per month, as will
appear by the following minute of the Committee of Friends:--
Brighton, 13th of 11th month, 1806.
Committee for the management and disposal of Lands at Brighton
belonging to the quarterly meeting of Friends of Sussex.
This committee having taken into consideration the request of Maria
Fitzherbert for permission to continue the window in the north side
of her stables which looks into the premises belonging to Friends,
This committee, unwilling to pursue a conduct which may assume the
appearance of acting otherwise than neighbourly (notwithstanding
injury may arise to the said premises by complying with such
request), consents to the window not being stopped up for the
present, upon condition of Maria Fitzherbert's agreeing to pay one
penny per month for such permission, and also undertaking to brick-up
the same, at any time within one week after notice for that purpose
from any of the trustees or committee for the said premises, and in
default thereof that any of the Friends be authorized to brick-up the
said window at the expense of the said Maria Fitzherbert, and that
such agreement be prepared, signed and delivered to the said
committee within two weeks from the date hereof, otherwise the
foregoing proposals to be void.
William Tuppen is requested to take a copy of the above minute to
Maria Fitzherbert, and obtain her sentiments thereon, and report the
same to this committee.
Signed in and on behalf of the committee,
JNO. GLAISYER.
A subterranean passage is in existence from the Pavilion to the Stables,
and was the medium by which, in disguise, the Prince and his friends went
to and returned--comparatively in private--from their nocturnal rambles.
Its immediate connexion with the royal suite of rooms was by means of a
trap in the floor of one of the apartments, beneath which was an
intricate staircase that gave him a means of ready exit; as, besides
using it on occasions of fun and frolic, his constant fear of attempts
upon his life from political motives,--as on the occasion of his being
shot at with an air-gun, on his return from opening Parliament in
1817,--or in consequence of his numerous amorous peccadillos, rendered a
means of escape desirable, and he was enabled also, in case of emergency,
to attain with great facility the various galleries that ramified the
roofs of the building.
The New Road--previously the garden of Mr Furner, the Prince's
gardener,--was formed in 1805, by privates of the Royal Artillery; and on
Monday, August 12th,--the anniversary of the birth-day of the Prince of
Wales,--His Royal Highness gave the men employed on the work a guinea
each. In 1807, there was a west entrance to the Pavilion Grounds,
directly opposite the Theatre. On the 14th of August, that year, it
happened that the Prince, purposing going out that way in the evening,
found the gate shut and locked. His Royal Highness called out to his
attendants to break the gate open,--an order which they attempted to obey,
but found themselves unequal to the task. The Prince smiling, desired
them to stand aside, as he had no doubt but his strength was sufficient
to force the place, though their's had failed. In an instant he wrenched
the gate from its hinges, and with his party passed on to the Theatre.
The trees in the New Road were not planted till 1812. The double row of
elms immediately west formed the east range of Elm Grove, and in 1817
became the first resort of the rooks, which had been driven away from
Preston Rookery by Mr. Stanford. These birds do not winter in Brighton,
but come from Stanmer Park--whither they migrate,--annually towards the end
of February.
The great additions to the Royal Pavilion, or rather its reconstruction,
so as to remain and adopt some portions of the original building,
commenced in 1817, Nash being the architect. It is of no fixed style of
architecture, but is a composite of the Moorish and Chinese. An Indian
style was offered by Repton, who on the publication of it, upon its being
rejected by the Prince, adopted the term "Pavilion," both in the plates
and in the letter-press. The style selected is admired by some persons,
but much ridiculed by critics. Sidney Smith said "the building looked as
if the dome of St. Paul's, London, had come down to Brighton and pupped;"
whilst William Cobbett observed that "a good idea of the building might
be formed by placing the pointed half of a large turnip upon the middle
of a board, with four smaller ones at the corners." The Pagoda towers,
which form the north and south wings, are much admired for the beauty of
their proportions, and for their inversion from the roof in a
spheroidical elevation. They are covered with thin plates of iron,
coated with mihl or mastic of great durability. The domes, and the
minarets, which consist of open cupolas on tall pillars, have a similar
covering of mastic.
In adapting the north pagoda to a concert room, every attention was paid
by the architect to combine the harmony of the music in the perfect
equilibrium of tone produced by each instrument. The Prince of Wales,
who was a fine judge and promoter of music, made many suggestions to
counteract the too great elevation of the ceiling, which somewhat
destroyed the combination and vibration of sound, and under his
accomplished taste the acme of scientific proportions of combination and
sound was attained. The first time that this music room was used was
about the middle of January, 1818, the performers being the Prince
Regent's private band. The organ, by Mr Lincoln, was not erected till
the end of that year. The organ previously used in the Pavilion was
taken there on the 18th of November, 1805. The instrument now used in
the room formerly stood in the Royal Chapel, and was the gift of her
present Majesty to the town.
It is unnecessary to give a detailed description of the whole of the
apartments of the Pavilion, or the furniture therein; it will suffice to
say that with the exception of the Chinese Gallery, and the suite of
rooms which forms the east front, there was not, while it remained Royal
property, a room that would content any commoner of substance. The
throne room, with its tawdry adjuncts, was vile in taste and of meagre
proportions; wholly devoid of the grandeur and nobleness which should
attach itself to Royalty. A casual observer of the present day would be
led to suppose that the apartment was the lodge-room of some benefit
society, or the smoking crib of George IV., the raised canopied dais
being appointed for the chairman at Lodge Meetings, or for His Gracious
Majesty when he presided over his Royal Pavilion midnight orgies. The
whole of the King's Apartments, as they were designated, were of a like
character; but they afforded him a contentment, inasmuch, as, from his
bedroom,--by the secret stairs to which the bloated Marchioness of
Conyngham descended from her chamber,--to the capacious marble bath where
his Majesty laved, there was a seclusion to which in his later years he
became habituated. The upper rooms of the Pavilion, are, for a Palace,
low pitched, of very contracted dimensions, and from two windows alone,
those in the large dome, is a sufficient view of the sea obtained to
permit of the building being termed a Marine Pavilion. The furniture
throughout the building was costly in the extreme, but incongruous.
Huish, in his "Memoirs of George IV.," says:--"Nothing could exceed the
indignation of the people, when the Civil List came before Parliament in
May, 1816, and 50,000 were found to have been expended in furniture at
Brighton, immediately after 534,000 had been voted for covering the
excess of the Civil List, occasioned entirely by the reckless
extravagance of the Prince Regent, whose morning levees were not attended
by men of science and of genius, who could have instilled into his mind
wholesome notions of practical economy; but the tailor, the upholsterer,
the jeweller, and the shoemaker were the regular attendants of his
morning recreations." On one of these occasions his servant entered his
apartment at the Pavilion with the information, "_She_ is come, your
Royal Highness." "She!" exclaimed the Prince, "who is _she_?" "_She_ is
come," repeated the servant. "I ask," replied the Prince in an angry
tone, "who is _she_?--where does _she_ come from?" "It is _Shea_ the
tailor, from London, your Royal Highness." The Prince smiled, and the
_Shea_ was admitted immediately into the royal presence.
Irrespective of the great alterations and improvements at the Royal
Pavilion marking an epoch for Brighton, in 1817, that year is also
memorable in the town for the 5th of November riot, which then took
place, referred to in page 114, and thus satirised by Thomas
Herbert:--{271}
THE CARD, OR POSTER.
'Twas t'other day a printed card,
A sort of petty war declared
Against some little boys!
Three silly men, to say no worse,
Must needs pursue a foolish course
To rob them of their joys!
This, being canvassed round and round,
At first produc'd a whispering sound
Which soon grew into noise.
THE MORNING.
The morning lowers
And heavily in clouds brings on the day
Big with the fate of three deluded men.
A council, now, these three conven'd,
To see what mischief could be schem'd,
Their victims to annoy;
This caus'd a dinner to be had,
Our heroes being very sad,
To renovate their rage;
And at the dinner they got drunk--
Which soon produc'd a mighty funk,
They wanted to engage.
THE DINNER {272a}
The dinner's over and the table clear,
Each has a bumper of his favorite cheer,
Now up erect the company arise,
The Regent's health! the soaking hero {272b} cries;--
The Regent's health! repeats the sable Knight, {272c}
We must him cheer or else it wont be right!
Most certainly repli'd the chief, half soaken,
With three times three 'twill be a loyal token;
For three times three, my boys, prepare your lips,
And you, dear sable, please to give the hips.
The glass pass'd round, with sentiment sublime,
Some choosing punch and some prefering wine;
Until at length, they growing pretty mellow,
'Tis said, their chief these words aloud did bellow:--
Stand by me, boys! I'll teach 'em such a story!
If you'll stand firm I'll lead you on to glory.
When having drank as long as they were able,
While some sat up and some lie under table,
I must go home exclaim'd the soaking chief--
Remember boys, you come to my relief!
And so must I--repli'd the sable hero,
And off they trudge like Beelzebub and Nero.
AT SOAKER'S DOOR.
_Soaker to Black_.--My dear friend Black I'm much afraid
There'll be a row--the soaking hero said.
_Black_.--I think so too, indeed, upon my word,
So I'll go home and sharpen up my sword.
_Soaker_.--That's right my boy, then shortly after tea
Come here again, I shall you want to see,
And as I fear this job will end in strife--
I'll just step in and reconcile my wife.
_Black_.--That's spoken well, and so my friend will I,
Then for the present you--I'll bid good by.
_Soaker_.--Good by my friend, good by--good by--good by.
AT BLACK'S.
_Mrs. Black_.--My husband, dear, what makes you look so white?
My heart forebodes 'twill be a shocking night.
_Black_.--Should it be so, pray don't you be alarm'd--
You know, my dear, I always go well arm'd.
_Mrs. Black_.--Alas, my dear, you look as almost dead--
A dreadful stone may smite you on the head.
_Black_.--Suppress these fears, with tears flush in his eyes,
Suppress these fears, the trembling _hero_ cries;
Should in the riot your dear husband fall,
The will he made conveys to you his all.
So one sweet kiss! and then, I go away,
'Tis duty calls, I must my love, obey.
Then for his sword the fear-struck hero cri'd--
The cause demands it, so, my dear, don't chide;
His sword is brought, and buckl'd round his waist,
With great precision, like a man of taste--
Away he swaggers, and his hands he rubs,
Looking, quite bold, like a new jack of clubs.
AT SOAKER'S.
_Mrs. Soaker_.--Oh, if, my dear, you must to night go out,
I pray, my love, mind what you are about.
_Soaker_.--My honor calls, indeed, my dearest wife!
My love, my joy, my only hope, my life!
And should the rebels your dear husband kill,
In yonder drawer you'll find his honest will.
I must away, my dear, 'tis growing late,
So kiss me love, and give me up to fate.
AT SOAKER'S DOOR.--BLACK AND SOAKER MEET.
_Soaker_.--At yonder corner when a man you place,
Bid him stand firm, and not our cause disgrace;
At that place, too, another must be fixed;
Likewise a third, the interval betwixt:
And the rear guard--as well as our van
Must all stand firm, ay, even to a man.
THE STEINE.
The signal made--the blazing foe appears--
Had you been there, you must have smelt their fears.
The scene was grand, illumining around,
You might have pick'd a sixpence from the ground;
The lookers on appearing at first glimpse,
Just like the Old One, and so many imps;
With heart-felt joy, and truly loyal shout,
'Tis now the boys the tar tub roll about;
Oh, 'twas a pity such a noble sight,
Should be the signal for a bloody fight.
The soaking hero runs amidst the crowd,
And in a rage vociferates aloud--
Patrole! d'ye hear! you're deaf upon my soul!
These villains take and lodge in the black hole!
The battle rages and the missile flies,
To fetch the troops the soaking hero hies;
He skulks away to the sage monster's {273} house
As much alarm'd, as e'er was eat-caught mouse.
AT MONSTER'S HOUSE.
And when arriv'd at this great legal source,
He pli'd the knocker with uncommon force--
The door is open'd, in our hero goes,
And to the bear disgorges all his woes.
Assist us, sir, or else, this very night,
I and poor Sable shall be murder'd quite!
At this request the learned bear turns out,
And looks like one they, sometimes, lead about.
I'll pretty soon, he roars, the rabble clear,
I'll read the riot act, I've got it here!
Go get the troops, and then we need not fear!
How many troops? the soaking hero cri'd,
All that you can, the learned bear repli'd.
THE BARRACKS.
Now to the Barracks flies the soaking chief,
And calls for troops; assuming, bold and brief;
I want some troops, to sergeant he did say
At your peril dare to keep away!
The sergeant-major to the guard-house hies,
Turn out the piquet, there, he loudly cries,
The word is pass'd, the soldiers prompt obey,
And to the Steine that instant march away.
THE STEINE.
The troops arriv'd close to the learned bear,
He reads the proclamation in their rear,
And off he sculks half dead with dread and fear!
The soaking chief, like one bereav'd of wits,
And almost going into fainting fits,
Charge on, exclaimed, no mercy I'll afford!
Why don't you charge? You heard me give the word.
Charge! charge! charge! charge! the sable knight replies,
Charge! charge! again the soaking hero cries.
The charge is made, alas, poor luckless Rowles,
Thy life is gone, through these ambitious fools;
The battle's ended, and they look around,
When some are lying stretch'd upon the ground;
Some too with cuts and bruises there are found,
Just at the end of this disgusting scene,
A man of peace was walking on the Steine,
The soaking hero cri'd What brought you here?
Go home! go home! roar'd out the learned bear,
To these insults the man of peace replies,
With indignation beaming in his eyes,
Nothing I said, nor nothing have I done;
So when I please I, therefore, shall go home.
You won't go home, roar'd out the learned boar,
So mind to-morrow, from me you shall hear.
You look disdainful in my very face!
I'll bind you o'er to keep the public peace;
In this, believe me, though it seems absurd,
The learned monster strictly kept his word;
The peaceful man, however hard his fare,
Was bound, they say, next sessions to appear!
A frantic mother running on the Steine,
A poor man ask'd, have you my Billy seen?
The man repl'd, I havn't, on my soul;
You'd better ask, I think, at the Black Hole.
The wretched woman now borne down with grief,
Flies to that place in hopes to find relief,
Raps at the door, Who's there? with voice quite grim,
The night watch cried, we cannot take more in.
'Tis full of young and old, besides a quaker prim.
_Woman_.--Oh, pray sir, pray, relieve a mother's fear,
And tell me if you have my Billy here?
_Watch_.--Ay, that he is, I'm sure beyond a doubt,
And so to-morrow you may bail him out.
_Woman_.--She walks away, but still she sheds a tear--
And calls for imprecations on the bear.
* * * * *
Next day the learned bear flies to his station,
To be the judge of his own depredation;
'Tis now the foaming monster roars aloud,
With face as black as a November cloud.
Bring in your charge, but mind I say,
At your perils let him get away.
Now with a double guard there enters in
A child, but just escaped from leading string.
The monster with a dreadful stare, at large,
Against the pris'ner ask'd what was the charge;
The sable hero, with assurance ample,
'Tis dreadful, sir, exclaim'd, beyond example!
As I stood on the Steine with sword in hand,
I saw him brandish a huge fire brand.
Oh, fy, saith pris'ner, what a wicked fib.
'Twas but the paper of a discharg'd squib.
Pris'ner, your age? exclaim'd the learned bear,
While down his little face would steal a tear.
The truth, come tell me, or I'll commit you straight;
I am, saith pris'ner, somewhat turn'd of eight.
The monster roared, with truly savage grin,
Discharge the brat, and bring another in.
THE DEATH.
Alas, alas! poor lifeless Rowles,
It grieves me to relate--
Thy fam'ly lost its dearest friend
By thy untimely fate.
May Providence then guide the law,
Thy slaughter be avenged;
And may the halter catch the right,
For equity's just end.
Oh, may thy widow find support,
Thy family to rear:
And may she live to bring them up,
The living God to fear.
The visits of George IV. to Brighton were discontinued in 1824, in
consequence of a deep resentment which His Majesty felt at some personal
affront that was given by some of the inhabitants, to his then favourite
mistress, the Marchioness of Conyngham, who was the Lady Steward of the
Royal Household, and arrogated to herself the privilege of arranging the
_entree_ to the King, and of possessing control over the commonest
domestics of the establishment. Her effrontery, however, was too
intolerant for some of the townsfolk to brook; and, their virtuous
indignation being aroused, they indulged in remarks upon her, and were so
indifferent in courtesy towards her, that His Majesty considered the
affront as almost given to himself. In fact, the extraordinary
ascendency which the Marchioness had obtained over the royal mind, was
then so apparent in all the King's actions that he was a Sovereign
governed by one subject, and that subject more influential and powerful
in her authority than the first minister of the State. Upon the
retirement of the King from Brighton, the Princess Augusta was a frequent
visitor to the town, her residence, by permission of her Royal Brother,
being one of the private houses, to the west, just within the then
southern entrance to the Pavilion Grounds.
The Royal Pavilion was a favourite autumn and winter residence of William
IV. and Queen Adelaide, who made their first visit to Brighton on Monday,
August 30th, 1830. Their Majesties effected many important alterations
upon the Royal Property, causing the erection of the ivy-clad range of
buildings known as the Dormitories, extending along the south margin of
the western lawn, from Prince's Place to Carlisle House. A southern
entrance to the Grounds was erected in 1831. It stood across the top of
East Street, in a line with the north side of North Street; but upon the
Royal Pavilion estate becoming the property of the Town of Brighton, in
1850, the building was taken down; as, besides the structure being in
nowise handsome, it was a screen that completely hid the Pavilion, and
hemmed in the property now known as the Pavilion Buildings. The elegant
northern entrance--a noble and faultless building, exhibiting every
characteristic of boldness and stateliness,--was erected in 1832.
During the occupation of the Royal abode by William and Adelaide,--when it
received the name of The Palace,--it was a continued scene of regal
festivities, juvenile parties being very frequent. The present Duke,
then Prince George of Cambridge, was a great favourite with Their
Majesties, who specially humoured his fancies and frolics. Royalty,
however, is very tenacious of its dignity; whereof the following is a
proof: Upon occasions when the youthful aristocracy were invited to the
Palace, it was invariably usual for the arrangements of the evening to be
under the immediate superintendence of the celebrated _maitresse de
danse_, Madame Michau, who, not unfrequently, was assisted in her duties
by her son, now well-known as Mons. James Michau, and the arrangement
graciously received the Royal sanction. With the Prince and his youthful
associates the son of the dancing mistress was considered fair game for
their sporting humour; they therefore resorted to practical joking upon
him, well-knowing that difference in position forbad his making a retort.
But it happened upon one occasion that either the Prince exceeded his
usual indignities, or that young Michau was not in a philosophic placid
temper, as he offered a remonstrance, which excited a blow from His Royal
Highness, resulting in a bout of fisticuffs, from which the Prince came
off second best. The indignity, thus justly administered, was forthwith
resented, the Royal communication, through Mr. Gee, Her Majesty's page,
being that Madame Michau's services would not again be required. A
retributive incident shortly after occurred that entirely put an end to
the Palace youthful gatherings. Prince George, for a diversion, had
purchased a mechanical mouse, and, having wound it up, he placed it upon
the floor, when it chanced to travel in the direction of the Queen. Her
Majesty had not observed the toy until it closely approached her, when,
feeling a sudden alarm, she rose hurriedly, uttering an ejaculation of
fear, a procedure so undignifying to her exalted position that she
immediately retired, and no other juvenile party at the Palace ever after
took place.
Queen Victoria paid her first visit to Brighton, October 4th, 1837, and
had a most enthusiastic reception. Her Majesty's second visit took place
the following Autumn. In February, 1842, the Queen and Her Royal
Consort, Prince Albert, made the stay of a month in Brighton; and on the
7th of September, the following year, Her Majesty and the Prince Consort
landed from the Royal Yacht, at the Chain Pier, on their return from a
visit to Louis Philippe, at Chateau d'Eu. The circumstance of their
landing is commemorated by Mr. R. H. Nibbs, in a most exquisite painting
which is placed amongst the local works of art that adorn the Borough
Council Chamber, at the Town Hall. The Queen and Prince Albert embarked
on the 12th for Ostend. In September, 1844, the last royal visit was
made to the Pavilion, the Prince of Wales, the Princess Royal, and Prince
Alfred being sent down for the benefit of their health. Their stay
extended to a fortnight. Hopes were entertained that Her Majesty would
again visit Brighton; but time passed on, and at length it was announced
that the Queen had purchased an estate in the Isle of Wight, where she
would have a marine residence, in the strictest sense of the word, easy
of access, and so admirably situated that she could, with the greatest
facility, indulge in her favourite pastime--a water excursion.
Gradually the Pavilion became despoiled of its costly furniture and
fittings, many of the latter being ruthlessly torn down and destroyed.
Eventually it was announced that the building was to be razed to the
ground, the materials sold, and the land disposed of for building
purposes. In November, 1848, it became known that the Royal
Commissioners of the Woods and Forests intended to introduce a Bill the
next Sessions of Parliament, for the sale of the property, to obtain
funds for further improvements at Buckingham Palace. The Town
Commissioners put in their claim for a restoration by the Crown of the
road which formerly went through the Pavilion Grounds, from south to
north from East Street. It was also pointed out that some portions of
the ground that had been sold to the Prince Regent, had restrictions
against building, which restrictions could not be removed without the
consent of the Lords of the Manor.
The Bill for the disposal, however, passed, and on the 27th of July,
1849, a Vestry meeting of the rated inhabitants, determined upon
purchasing the property for 53,000, the sum required for it by the
Commissioners of the Woods and Forests. Another Bill had yet to be
obtained to give the Town Commissioners power to purchase the estate.
Such an opposition to the purchase in the meantime sprung up amongst some
of the ratepayers, and at a Vestry meeting called to approve of the Bill,
that, after two days' polling, the amendment, in effect "that the
purchase be stopped," was only lost by a minority of 36, the numbers
being: for the purchase, 1343; against it, 1307. The Bill was read in
the House of Commons a second time, without opposition, on the 14th of
February, 1850; and was read a third time in the House of Lords on the
2nd of May, 1850. The money for the purchase, and 7,000 for the
expenses of obtaining the Bill, and to restore the building, amounting in
the whole to 60,000, was borrowed of the Bank of England, and on the
13th of June, 1850, the Commissioners of the Woods and Forests were paid
the sum required. The building is not yet wholly appropriated, but,
immediately upon the completion of the purchase, the late Mr. Christopher
Wren Vick was employed to effect the work of restoration, and he
succeeded in obtaining the original blocks from which the former
paper-hangings of the grand suite of rooms were printed, and also in
engaging Mr. Lambelet,--who has since died in poverty--the artist who
executed the original decorations. On the 21st of January, 1851, the
Pavilion was reopened with a grand ball of the inhabitants; since which
time numerous balls, concerts, and meetings of scientific, benevolent,
and other societies have taken place there, and it has now an excellent
gallery for paintings, and several rooms have been set apart for the
Brighton Museum, an institution that is well deserving of support.
Paintings, by purchase and gifts, adorn many of the walls of the
building, and in the Vestibule and Chinese Gallery are some excellent
specimens of sculpture, principally by our local sculptor, Mr. Pepper.
The most prominent is a full length statue by Noble, of the late Captain
Pechell, son of the late member for Brighton, Sir G. R. B. Pechell, Bart.
The gallant young officer fell during the Russian War, in the Crimea.
Besides the Pavilion and Grounds, the estate has many private houses,
including the magnificent range called Pavilion Buildings. The debt
consequent upon the purchase is being gradually reduced, and the
opponents to the purchase not feeling the burthen which they dreaded,
have the gratification of knowing, that, as a lung to their magnificent
town, they have that which no other town in the kingdom possesses,--an
extensive park of its own in its very centre.
CHAPTER XXVII.
ON AND ABOUT THE RACE-COURSE.
Royalty had scarcely taken up its abode in Brighton, when, according to
the Racing Calendar, in 1783, racing commenced its career on the eastern
down, better known as White Hawk Down, Brighton. The sports were
principally amongst the officers of the Militia Regiments which were then
quartered in the town, and they received the patronage of the Prince of
Wales. Beyond the authority of the "Oldest Inhabitant," transmitted
orally, there is no account of the extent, formation, or the tenure of
the course. It is understood to have been about two miles in length, and
to have occupied, as at present, the horse shoe shaped ridge of the hill,
and was defined, on sufferance, by the clearing away of the furze.
The Race Ground proper consists of 105 acres and 30 perches, over which
the right of pasturage has become vested in the Marquis of Bristol, by
purchase from Mr. Thomas Read Kemp, who bought it for 780, subject to
public rights, as the erection thereon, by the inhabitants, of booths and
stalls for the accommodation and recreation of the public during the
races. The Course is two miles in length, and what is known as the New
Course is one mile long. The counterpart of an alleged lease was in the
possession of Mr. Thomas Attree, Queen's Park, bearing date June 24th,
1796, purporting to be a demise of the Race Stand to various
inhabitants,--all of whom are now deceased,--for 99 years, at the annual
rent of one guinea. The counterpart came into the possession of Mr.
Attree in 1822, many years prior to which no rent had been paid or
demanded, and no lease could ever be discovered. On the 2nd July, 1846,
a committee of the Town Commissioners were informed by Mr. Attree that he
claimed the Stand for himself and others who had subscribed 400 for its
erection, in eighteen shares, whereof he held nine, and that the sum
still remained a charge upon the building; but he offered to sell the
Stand for 400 to the Race Committee. The Committee considering that no
valid lease was in existence,--inasmuch as in deeds, dated 1822, and to
which Mr Attree was a party; whereby the Race Stand was specially
granted, no allusion whatever was made to a lease or other
incumbrance,--declined the offer. They furthermore considered that the
debt alleged to be due and charged thereon ought long since to have been
liquidated from the proceeds of the letting, and that the inhabitants
beneficially interested therein were exonerated from such debt, charge,
or encumbrance.
In 1849 a new Race Committee was formed, and their first step was to
purchase the Stand, giving for it, to the surviving shareholders, Mr. T.
Attree, Mr. H. Blackman, and Mr. Tamplin, the sum of 360, the London,
Brighton, and South-Coast Railway Company liberally presenting to the
Committee 100 towards the amount, independent of their annual
subscription to the Race Fund of 200. The following six gentlemen also
came forward as Trustees: Mr. Alderman Burrows, Mr. Alderman Martin, Mr.
Robert Williams, Mr. H. F. Stocken, Mr. Lewis Slight, and Mr. Lewis
Slight, jun., and the shabby wooden building, erected in 1798, gave place
to the present commodious and handsome structure, the design of Mr. Allan
Stickney, the Town Surveyor, at a cost of 5,000, the whole of which has
been discharged by the Race Committee, who have likewise increased the
public money from 350 given in 1848, to nearly 2,000 annually.
The old Race Stand, built in 1803, succeeded the first building, which
was erected in 1788, and destroyed by fire on the 23rd of August, 1796.
The fire arose in consequence of the carelessness of the family who had
been permitted to occupy the building. Notwithstanding the unfortunate
occurrence took place about mid-day, it was distinctly seen at a distance
of upwards of thirty miles. Many people from various parts of the
county, some on horseback, and some on foot, entered the town during the
succeeding night and day, to make enquiries respecting it, as
apprehensions prevailed that the enemy had made a descent on that part of
the coast, and was evincing his love for the natives by setting fire to
their dwellings.
A singular incident occurred during the fire: An officer of the Prince's
regiment, attracted to the spot by the volumes of flame and smoke, was
reviewing the terrific encroachments of the devouring element, when a
cat, dreadfully singed and terrified, sprung through the blaze, and
alighted on his shoulders. The officer, somewhat surprised, at first
endeavoured to shake her off; but poor puss, firmly fixing her claws in
his jacket, was not so easily got rid of. Perceiving, then, her
reluctance to leave him, he at length humanely determined, that as she
had, in the moment of danger and fear, flown to him for protection, she
should accompany him to the Barracks, where she was well taken care of by
her new master and his comrades.
A curious circumstance took place on the morning of the Races, August
4th, 1805. The farmer who rented the race ground having explained to the
Jockey Club that he had not received the usual compliment of the fourth
of a pipe of wine for the previous season, threatened to plough up the
course if he was not paid what he conceived to be his due. Accordingly,
he set his plough to work, but a press-gang appearing in sight, his
ploughman fled, and resigned the course to the gentlemen of the turf, the
farmer the while declaring that he would not be jockeyed out of his wine,
as he would have a sort of a race for it in Westminster Hall. The cause,
however, never came off.
The support given to the Brighton Races by the Prince of Wales and those
immediately about him, made the meeting amongst the nobility quite a
national feature, as the _elite_ of the turf were always in attendance,
and a gaiety prevailed that no other place could boast of. The course
was thronged with equestrians and the fashionable equipages of the day,
barouches and four, driven by lords and baronets. Conspicuous amongst
them was His Royal Highness on his German Waggon--as his barouche was
called,--driving his six bays, with Townsend, of Bow Street, as his
companion, as well to protect the Prince from insult as from robbery.
But it was a position which gave His Royal Highness an opportunity to
practise upon his guardian a somewhat unpleasant joke. Turning suddenly
towards Townsend, just at the termination of a race, he exclaimed, "By
Jove, Townsend, I've been robbed; I had with me some damson tarts, but
they are now gone." "Gone?" said Townsend, rising, "impossible!" "Yes,"
rejoined the Prince, "and you are the purloiner," at the same time taking
from the seat whereon the officer had been sitting, the crushed crust of
the asserted missing tarts, and adding, "This is a sad blot upon your
reputation as a vigilant officer." "Rather, say your Royal Highness, a
sad stain upon my escutcheon," added Townsend, raising the gilt buttoned
tails of his blue coat and exhibiting the fruit-stained seat of his
nankeen inexpressibles.
The Brighton Races are now held on the Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday
following the Goodwood meeting. Thursday is devoted to the racing of the
Brighton Race Club, established in 1850. Formerly they were either on
Saturday, Monday, and Tuesday, as shown by the calendar of the Brighton
Races, July 28th, 30th, and 31st, 1804, now in the possession of Mr.
Alderman Martin; or, as in 1810, on Friday, Saturday, and Monday, August
3rd, 4th, and 6th, when two races a day took place, distinguished in
their time of running by "Before Dinner," and "After Dinner." The
arrangement of the days was to admit of a fair, termed "White Hawk Fair,"
being held on the east down on the intervening Sunday. It has now been
abolished about forty years. The _Morning Herald_, Sunday, August 2nd,
1807, makes the following mention of this fair:--
White Hawk Fair, as it is termed, has attracted much company to the
Race Down to-day, though but few individuals of fashionable note were
to be seen in the throng.
Connected with this Down is the
LEGEND OF THE WHITE HAWK LADY.
Less than half a century since, the remnant of a moss-covered unhewn
stone marked the spot in Ovingdean churchyard, where, as gossips then
said, were deposited the remains of Margaret Ladrone, probably a name
conferred on her from the pilfering propensities of the gipsies, a tribe
to which she belonged, though she was familiarly spoken of as "Mag Lade,"
a sybil or fortune-teller of her day, whose visits to Ovingdean were
annual in the month of August, on the occasion of White Hawk Fair, a
holiday gathering on White Hawk Down, at which the rustics were wont to
learn their fate of the wise woman, as she was termed by the unmarried
who would know the future through the vista of happiness; but the old
crone or witch, by those whose stern thought attributed all the mishaps
that befel either themselves or their substance to the influence of an
evil one, with whom she was proclaimed to be in league. At other periods
of the year she practised her vocation in various places throughout the
county, so that she had a regular circuit, through the course of which
the burning fervour of youth hailed her advent with earnest
anticipations, equalled only by the dread entertained by mature age, that
blight and murrain were her attendants. It happened on one occasion, the
date whereof is immaterial, that Editha Elmore, the only daughter of the
rich squire of Woodingdean, while intent on the palmistry of Mag,--whose
hand she had crossed with a broad silver piece,--by chance cast her eyes
upon the form of a dark young man of goodly mien, the very type of him
whom the gipsey prophetess essayed to be her future husband. In the next
country-dance he was her partner, and also the envy of one who, from
their childhood, had been her companion, and was looked upon by the
parents of each as her intended bridegroom. The festivities of the day
closed; the dark stranger bade her adieu; the villagers returned to their
homes; and ere the shades of night had gathered over the Downs, not a
vestige was left of the scene which had been one of general festivity.
Ralph Mascall, the son of the farmer at the Grange, Ovingdean, as had
been his custom from a child, accompanied the fair Editha to Woodingdean,
where he received the accustomed welcome of her parents; and, before
midnight, he was on his way homewards somewhat disturbed in mind that he
had a rival. His visits, however, to Squire Elmore's were not the less
frequent; nor did the affection shown towards him by Editha in the least
appear to wane. And so another year passed on, and the annual festival
again arrived. There again was Mag, whom Editha sought once more, to
learn her destiny. The Fates had not altered their decree; and there, as
twelve months since he stood, was the dark comely stranger. The very
type of previous years were the proceedings of the day; the same homely
village simplicity, the jocund song, the rustic dance, the same potations
of home-brewed and cider; the same greetings, the same partings.
Somewhat later than was considered within the bounds of prudence, the
handmaid of Editha, accompanied by Giles, her lover, approached the
wicket that opened on the lawn before Squire Elmore's mansion, where she
was met by the dark stranger of the Fair, who, tendering her a golden
coin,--by way of hush money,--bade her convey to her young mistress a note
of delicate proportions. Promise of secrecy was exacted; the parting
kiss was exchanged between the blushing Abigail and Giles; and the latter
accepting the companionship of the stranger, the two bent their steps to
Rottingdean, where the honest rustic returned to his home. Where the
stranger rested for the night has never transpired. Early the following
morning Mag was at the mansion, the domestics of which, anxious to learn
how they were ruled by the stars, parted freely with their silver pieces.
The Abigail of the previous night's adventure was particularly anxious to
learn her destiny; and the truth which was essayed of her Giles, his age,
his complexion, his temper, and his prospects, gave full assurance of the
marvellousness of Mag's divining skill, to which the fair Editha, with
whom she also had an interview, gave implicit credence. Four-and-twenty
hours, however, wrought a great change at the mansion, and likewise in
the hamlet of Ovingdean. A more than usual oppression and sultriness
pervaded the atmosphere throughout the day, and towards nightfall the war
of elements commenced, the sharp flashes of lightning increasing in
vividness, the artillery of the heavens roaring in awful solemnity, and
the massive clouds discharging their drenching cataracts. Such a night
had never been previously known in the neighbourhood; and every person
anxiously waited the coming dawn to learn the havoc of the dreadful
storm. The inmates of the mansion were early stirring, and, much sooner
than usual, Mr. and Mrs. Elmore were at breakfast. But they had not been
long seated when they were informed that Miss Editha could nowhere be
found, and that by the appearance of her bed-chamber she had not retired
to rest during the night. The note which had been delivered by the
stranger, and was then lying on the dressing table, appointing a midnight
interview upon the Downs, was all that could be found to account for her
absence. The most diligent search of the premises and the plantation
contiguous was immediately made, and a dispatch without delay was sent
off to Ovingdean, in the hopes that tidings might be heard of her there;
but all was fruitless. Previous, however, to the news reaching that
village, upon passing by the church, the sexton discovered, in the
south-west corner of the burial ground, the charred remains of a female,
which, upon examination of the dress about them, were declared to be
those of old Margaret Ladrone. At the place were they were found, there
in the course of the day, were they interred, without any funeral rites,
and the stone, before referred to, was placed over them to mark the spot.
The dark stranger was never afterwards seen.
The story continues, that, every stormy night after, the figure of a lady
in white paced the White Hawk Down, and that always on the morning after
the figure was seen, a foot-print, cloven like that of an ox, was found
at the same particular spot. The _Morning Herald_, of July 17th, 1807,
has the following:--"Brighton.--A few days ago were dug up upon the slope
of the Downs to the north-east of this place, the bones of a woman,
which, from their position, clearly evinced that they had been deposited
there many years before, without ceremony. A singular rumour is now
afloat of a young person having been ravished and murdered there, by a
person of unsuspected character." It may be proper to add that since the
finding of these bones the White Hawk Lady has not walked abroad. The
Elmore and the Mascall families, after the mysterious disappearance of
Editha, removed to Brighton; but it is a very singular fact that the name
of Lade is now very common at Ovingdean, it being even that of the Sexton
of the parish, who is a descendant of Sir John Lade, spoken of in the
last Chapter. As, however, the church register dates back only as far as
the year 1700, the genealogy of the family, even if it did come through
Old Mag, cannot be more remotely traced.
The death of the Earl of Egremont, who was a great patron of the Brighton
sports long after Royalty had abandoned contending on the course, was a
severe blow to Brighton Races; added to which, the Duke of Richmond, a
warm supporter of the turf, withdrew his influence in favour of Goodwood.
Year by year the Races waned, with the prospect of an early dissolution,
which, on the withdrawal of the Queen's Plate, in 1849, seemed
inevitable. Persons, it is true, continued, as of yore, to journey in
from the country to witness them, but there was a continual falling off
in the attendance of the aristocracy, and a rage for gambling of a most
pernicious character, in thimble-rig, roulette, Brunswick lottery,
prick-in-the-garter, &c., having set in, the townspeople with-held the
subscriptions which they had been accustomed to grant pretty freely to
the races, as they found that instead of having an equivalent for their
money in sport, they were only paying a premium for the encouragement and
dissemination of vice. Eventually, legislation put a stop to the
nefarious proceedings of the gamblers; and, in the very nick of time, the
great modern civilizer, the railway, was inducted from London, to give an
impetus to the prosperity of the town, which had perceptibly declined
when the Queen gave a preference over Brighton to the Isle of Wight, for
a marine retreat. The Railway was the turning medium for the
resuscitation of the Brighton Races, and the new Race Committee promptly
and successfully availed themselves of it, as it opened the prospect of a
new class of supporters, in the inhabitants of the metropolis, who were
by it within two hours' distance of the course.
At various periods since 1783, when troops were first stationed at
Brighton,--in consequence of the Pavilion becoming a Royal
residence,--reviews and sham fights of the military have taken place on
the Downs contiguous to the Race Course, the spot being admirably adapted
for army tactics. The troops upon such occasions have been generally of
the line and the militia regiments quartered at the several Infantry
Barracks in the town, and at the Cavalry Barracks on the Lewes Road,
other regiments at Ringmer, Lewes, and East Blatchington marching in to
take part in the evolutions. The Cavalry Barracks were completed in
1795. In 1801 a range of stables was erected, for the reception of 400
horses, immediately in front of the main buildings, and abutting on the
east boundary wall contiguous to the Lewes Road; but in 1818 these
stables were removed, and the spacious grounds were thrown open to public
view. The fives-court, between the wings, in the centre of the back
court-yard, was erected in 1810, by the officers of the Prince of Wales's
Regiment, the 10th Royal Hussars.
The modern grand military features of the Race Hill have been the sham
fights of the Volunteers, and known as the Battle of Ovingdean, Easter
Monday, April 1st, 1861, under Lord Ranelagh; and the Battle of White
Hawk Down, Easter Monday, April 21st, 1862, under Lord Clyde; both great
successes, and affording proofs of the valuable services and admirable
efficiency of this noble auxiliary of England's military power. The
force present on the first occasion numbered between 7,000 and 8,000 men,
thus brigaded:--
ARTILLERY BRIGADE.--Colonel Estridge, commanding. 1st Battalion
Brighton Artillery, 4th Cinque Ports, 2nd Hants, and 2nd Sussex.
FIRST BRIGADE RIFLE VOLUNTEERS.--Lieutenant Colonel Faunce,
commanding; Captain Deedes, Brigade Major. 1st Battalion--Colonel
M'Leod, 1st Middlesex Engineers; 32nd Middlesex (Guards). 2nd
Battalion--Major Atherley, 2nd South Middlesex. 3rd Battalion--Capt.
Ives, 11th Middlesex, (St. George's), 36th Middlesex (Paddington).
SECOND BRIGADE.--Lord Radstock, commanding; Captain Chitty, Brigade
Major. 1st Battalion--9th West Middlesex, 2nd Middlesex (A.B.) 2nd
Battalion--Colonel Money, 6th Tower Hamlets; 4th Tower Hamlets; 7th
Middlesex (Islington). 3rd Battalion--Colonel Colville, 39th Middlesex
(Finsbury); Kent Rifles, (Captain Jackson), 4th, 13th, 17th, 21st,
and 34th.
THIRD BRIGADE.--Colonel Moorsom, commanding; Major Panton, Brigade
Major. 1st Battalion--3rd Sussex (Administrative Battalion). 2nd
Battalion--1st Cinque Ports. 3rd Battalion--2nd Sussex (Administrative
Battalion).
FOURTH BRIGADE.--Colonel Vallancey, commanding; Major Deedes, Brigade
Major. 1st Battalion--Colonel Couran, 1st Hants (Administrative
Battalion), Winchester; 3rd Hants (Administrative Battalion); 6th
Hants. 2nd Battalion--Major Roupell, 19th Surrey (Lambeth); 10th
Surrey (Bermondsey). 3rd Battalion--Sir H. Fletcher, 2nd Surrey
(Administrative Battalion); 20th Surrey (Norwood).
RESERVE.--3rd City of London; Brighton Cadets; 11th Tower Hamlets.
The troops were formed in battalions on the Level, from whence they
marched by way of Marine Parade, and by the County Hospital to the summit
of the hill on the right of the Race Course, along which, past the Grand
Stand, they marched in review, before Major General Sir James Scarlett
and his staff.
Upon the crown of this hill, during the wars with Napoleon, stood a
signal-house and telegraph semaphore communicating along the coast with
similar stations at Seaford and Shoreham, and forming a link in the
important chain of signals which was in use between Portsmouth and Dover.
There is very little doubt, that about that locality at a much earlier
date than sporting records hand down to us, racing of some description
took place, the Town Book having the following entry:--
Memorandum, that on ye 7th of November, 1713, Henry May, Esq., paid
us a half-penny acknowledgmt for carrying the Corpes of his father Sr
Richard May, deceased, through the Laine, commonly called the Hilly
Laine, from the place were formerly stood a Race post, to the town of
Brighthelmston, it being noe high or Common Road, we Say red the Same
for sufferance, Per us
RICHARD MASTERS,
SIMON WISDEN.
JOHN GOLD.
The payment was doubtless exacted under the erroneous notion that the
unobstructed conveyance of a corpse gave the public a right to the way or
road along which the body was borne; and it is the generally received
opinion that the right of road by the footpath or bridle-way from
Blatchington, by way of Watts's Laundry to the road on Church Hill, was
obtained by a corpse having been conveyed from Blatchington for burial in
the church-yard of St. Nicholas, Brighton.
The several corps engaged in the Review having passed up the Course took
up heir first position on the ridge of heights overlooking Brighton, and
afterwards formed an extended line on the crest of one of the hills
running inland and parallel with the race-hill. This long line of about
a mile in length was supported by four guns on the extreme left. At the
time of commencing operations the furze on the side of the hill was,
either by design or accident, set on fire. Huge volumes of smoke rose
from the burning gorse, and as the line opened and kept up a heavy firing
for some time, the imaginative spectators on the distant eminence might
suppose that some quiet hamlet had been set on fire, either by the enemy
or by the brave defenders of their hearths and homes. After some very
heavy file-firing from right of companies, and two or three
well-delivered volleys, the line fell back, protected in its retreat by
the guns in position. The enemy was supposed to have followed them, but,
like the Spanish fleet, they could not be seen, because they were not in
sight. Lord Ranelagh's force was too small to admit of division into two
forces; but even had it been larger, it is doubtful whether a Volunteer
enemy would submit to be beaten according to orders, with so much
cheerfulness, and with so much steadiness, as is the case with the
regulars on the field-days of Aldershot and elsewhere. The retreating
force next deployed towards the sea, the action became more general, and
several battalions were moved up in support of the line. There were more
rattles of musketry, and more volleys, and then, wearied out with the
persistence of the enemy, two brigades, forming the right, charged down
on the enemy's left and drove them over hill and dale. The unseen and
flying enemy, however, got some imaginary reinforcements, and returned to
the attack and retrieved their laurels. The gallant brigadiers led back
their unwilling, but not disheartened men on the left wing; then the
centre fell back, and the right, unable to stand alone, followed the
example. Lord Ranelagh's eye instantly saw the cloud of dust which told
of the approach of horsemen. Quick as lightning there went forth the
command--"Form square to receive cavalry," and the order was promptly
obeyed; and had there been any cavalry, they would no doubt have been
very warmly and heartily received, in obedience to orders. The division
took up a fresh position--again advanced--the Battle of Ovingdean was
fought and won, and the well-known strains of the "National Anthem" told
of the loyalty, as many courageous deeds had told of the valour, of the
Volunteers.
At the second Easter Volunteer Field Day there were 19,000 of the
following corps present:--
CAVALRY.--18th Hussars, Lieut.-Col. Knox. 1st Hants Light Horse,
Capt. Bower.
ARTILLERY.--FIELD BATTERIES.--Lieut.-Col. Ormsby, R.A., commanding
Staff: Capt. Tupper, R.A., Capt. Pitt, R.A., Capt. Ward, R.A., Capt.
Blackwell, R.A. 1st and 2nd Batteries--Major Dalbiac, 1st Sussex.
3rd Battery--Capt. Darby, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th Sussex. 4th Battery--Major
Harcourt, 4th Cinque Ports.
GARRISON BRIGADE.--Lieut.-Col. Estridge, commanding; Capt. Woodhead,
3rd Middlesex Militia, Aide-de-Camp; Capt. Wolf, R.A., Major of
Brigade. 1st Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Sturdee, 1st Hants. 2nd
Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Lord Truro, 3rd Middlesex. 3rd Battalion--Major
Creed. 3rd Essex, 1 A Cinque Ports, 1st Middlesex, 2nd Middlesex,
1st Tower Hamlets.
INFANTRY.--FIRST DIVISION.--Major-General Crauford, commanding, Staff:
Capt. Smith, Grenadier Guards; Lieut. Hon. J. C. Eliot, Grenadier
Guards.
FIRST BRIGADE.--Lieut.-Col. the Duke of Wellington, K.G., commanding;
Capt. Goff, 50th Foot, Major of Brigade. 1st Battalion--Lieut.-Col.
Macleod, 1st Middlesex (Engineer), 1st Tower Hamlets (Engineer), and
two companies 16th Middlesex. 2nd Battalion--Lieut.-Col. the Hon. C.
Hugh Lindsay, 11th, 18th, and 36th Middlesex. 3rd
Battalion--Lieut.-Col. G. Warde, 1st City of London. 4th
Battalion--Major Whitehead, 1st Middlesex.
SECOND BRIGADE.--Lieut.-Col. the Marquis of Donegall, G.C.H.,
commanding; Major Mackenzie, Antrim Militia, Aide-de-Camp;
Brevet-Major Shaw, R.A., Major of Brigade. 1st Battalion--Lieut.-Col.
Jeakes, 4th and 37th Middlesex. 2nd Battalion--Major Vernon, 28th
Middlesex, and 4th Bucks. 3rd Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Lord Enfield,
29th Middlesex. 4th Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Lord Bury, 21st, 30th,
38th, 42nd, 43rd, and 44th Middlesex.
THIRD BRIGADE.--Lieut.-Col. Viscount Ranelagh, commanding; Capt.
Templar, Dorset R.V.C., Aide-de-Camp; Brevet-Major Deedes, 60th Foot,
Major of Brigade. 1st Battalion--Major Atherly, South Middlesex. 2nd
Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Somerset, 40th Middlesex. 3rd Battalion--Sir
John Shelley, 46th Middlesex, 2nd City of London, and 4th City of
London. 4th Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Bigge, 20th Middlesex.
FOURTH BRIGADE.--Brigadier-General Haines, C.B., commanding; Lieut.
Arbuthnot, 10th Hussars, Aide-de-Camp; Capt. Wovell, 41st Foot, Major
of Brigade. 1st Battalion--Major Beresford, 2nd, 7th, and 12th
Surrey. 2nd Battalion--Capt. Trueman, Acting Major. 10th, 19th,
21st, and 23rd Surrey. 3rd Battalion--Major Farnell, 1st
Administrative Battalion of Kent. 4th Battalion--Major Sir H.
Fletcher, 5th, 13th, and 14th Surrey, and 2nd Administrative
Battalion of Surrey.
FIFTH BRIGADE.--Major-General Taylor, commanding; Capt. Pemberton,
Scots Fusilier Guards, Aide-de-Camp; Major the Hon. W. J. Colville,
Rifle Brigade, Major of Brigade. 1st Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Capper,
5th and 9th Essex. 2nd Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Buxton, 1st
Administrative Battalion of Tower Hamlets. 3rd Battalion--Lieut.-Col.
Money, 4th and 6th Tower Hamlets. 4th Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Walker,
2nd, 8th, 9th, and 12th Tower Hamlets.
SECOND DIVISION.--Major-General Hon. A. Dalzell, commanding; Staff:
Colonel Taylor, C.B., Colonel Walker, C.B., and Capt. Carleton, 21st
Foot.
FIRST BRIGADE.--Lieut.-Col. Lord Radstock, commanding; Lieut. Peake,
Aide-de-Camp; Major Gooch, unattached. Major of Brigade. 1st
Battalion--Lieut.-Col, Wilkinson, 2nd Administrative Battalion,
Middlesex. 2nd Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Bathurst, 19th Middlesex. 3rd
Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Colvill, 39th Middlesex and 26th Kent. 4th
Battalion--Capt. Fenton, 9th Middlesex.
SECOND BRIGADE.--Brigadier-General Brown, commanding; Lieut. Savery,
78th Foot, Aide-de-Camp; Capt. Morgan, 55th Foot, Major of Brigade.
1st Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Grimston, 1st, 2nd, and 16th Hants. 2nd
Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Conran, 3rd Administrative Battalion, Hants.
3rd Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Dunsmore, 1st Administrative Battalion,
Isle of Wight. 4th Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Vallancy, 2nd
Administrative Battalion, Hants.
THIRD BRIGADE.--Lieut.-Col. Moorsom, commanding; Lieut. Moorsom, Royal
Artillery, Aide-de-Camp; Capt. Penton, 3rd Middlesex Militia, Major
of Brigade. 1st Battalion--Acting-Major Meek, 3rd Sussex
Administrative Battalion. 2nd Battalion--Sir Percy Burrell, Bart.,
M.P., 1st Sussex Administrative Battalion. 3rd Battalion--Lieut.-Col.
Gage, 1st Cinque Ports Administrative Battalion and 17th Kent. 4th
Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Barttelot, 2nd Sussex Administrative Battalion.
FOURTH BRIGADE.--Brigadier-General Garvock, commanding; Hon. Capt.
Chetwynd, Aide-de-Camp; Capt. Jones, 20th Foot, Major of Brigade.
1st Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Lord Elcho, 15th Middlesex. 2nd
Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Brewster, 23rd Middlesex. 3rd Battalion--Major
Richards, 3rd City of London and 32nd Middlesex. 4th
Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Lord Grosvenor, 22nd Middlesex, 1st Battalion.
5th Battalion--Lieut.-Col. Lord Gerald Fitzgerald. 22nd Middlesex,
2nd Battalion.
Upon the arrival of the various corps, they were marched to their several
places of rendezvous, on the Level, St. Peter's Church and North Steine
Enclosures, the Pavilion Grounds, and the Steine, where they partook of
refreshments. At 11 o'clock the "assembly" was sounded, and very soon
after the whole of the corps were on their march to the Race Hill, by way
of the Marine Parade and Elm Grove, the Divisions meeting again in White
Hawk Valley, whence they paraded down the Course and passed in Review
opposite the Grand Stand, before Lord Clyde, the Earl of Chichester--Lord
Lieutenant of the County,--and Lord Cardigan, passing out at the south end
of the Course, and then descending to their original position in the
Valley. The field evolutions took place principally on White Hawk Down,
and were eminently successful, and the whole of the arrangements of the
day, civil and military, were a practical demonstration of the facility
with which troops might be moved towards a threatened point on the
particular railway which would be most likely to be required for such a
duty in an actual case of emergency. On the morning of the Review, 6,922
Volunteers were despatched from London Bridge in two hours and 41
minutes, and 5,170 from the Victoria Station in two hours and 20 minutes,
without difficulty. They were conveyed in 16 trains, each composed of an
engine and tender and 22 vehicles, and each carrying on an average 20
officers and 735 men; and they reached Brighton in an average of 2 hours
and 28 minutes from the time of starting. The Brighton Company borrowed
on this occasion 72 carriages from three neighbouring companies, and 79
carriages also brought Volunteers over their railway, from other lines;
but they had to provide for their ordinary passenger-traffic on that day,
as well as for the Easter Monday traffic to the Crystal Palace, which was
very considerable, and to convey upwards of 2,000 Volunteers along the
south coast from the several stations on their own line. Indeed, the
total number of passengers who travelled upon the London, Brighton, and
South-Coast Railway on that day was 132,202, including Volunteers and the
holders of season and return tickets.
As a proof that the Queen takes a deep interest in the Volunteer
movement, Her Majesty, several times during the day, telegraphed to be
informed of every special incident in connexion with the military
evolutions. Happily no accident happened to mar the general proceedings;
but, to meet any casualty that might have arisen, Brigade Surgeon Burrows
of the First Sussex Volunteer Artillery, issued a notice that every
convenience for temporary hospital purposes was provided in a tent to the
west of the Race Stand, in a tent at the south of the battle-field, and
at the Industrial Schools.
The Industrial Schools are built upon what is known as the Warren Farm,
which occupies an area of ten acres of arable land immediately north-east
of the Race Course, and was purchased for 2,000. The project of
erecting these Schools for the purpose of training poor children to
habits of industry and relieving them of the ban of pauperism, was first
entertained by the Board of Guardians, in 1853, but no steps were taken
to carry it out till it received the sanction of the Vestry in 1856; and
even then, from time to time, numerous impediments arose, in the
selection of plans and in borrowing the requisite money of Government, so
that the first stone of the building was not laid till the 26th of March,
1859, the plans selected being those of Mr. George Maynard, the Parish
Surveyor. Mr. John Fabian, of Brighton, was the builder, at a contract
price of 8,223, the sum of 5,269 having previously been expended in
forming roads, and necessary incidental work. On the 1st of December,
1859, Mr. Fabian, as stipulated, completed his task, and delivered over
the building to the Board of Guardians. Subsequently, Mr. Fabian erected
the farm buildings at the cost of 1,514 16s, and Messrs. Patching and
Son erected the boundary wall for 560.
An establishment to consist of more than 300 persons would of necessity
require a good supply of one of the chief elements of existence, water;
it therefore became a question with the Guardians, how that supply was to
be obtained, whether by sinking a well, and thus have their own source of
the element, or by having pipes laid on from the Brighton Water Works.
The Guardians decided upon, the former course, as, having it in
contemplation to erect a new Workhouse on a seven acre piece of land,
which they had purchased for that purpose, between the Reservoir and the
Race Hill, their own well would supply both establishments,--hence was
projected the Warren Farm Well, the fame of which has spread to all parts
of the civilized world.
This celebrated well was commenced on the 25th of March, 1858; but at the
depth of 418 feet 3 inches, where a heading was driven laterally, a
contract which had been entered into with Mr. North was abandoned, and
the Board, after a consultation, determined to proceed with the work
themselves, and commenced by driving another heading opposite the former,
at a depth of 421 feet 9 inches, and from this a second perpendicular
shaft, four feet in diameter, was dug, the superintendence of the labour
being entrusted to Mr. Isaac Huggett, who persevered unremittingly with
the work, and eventually, after surmounting innumerable difficulties,
found on Sunday, the 16th March, 1862, at a depth of 1,285 feet, so
abundant a supply of excellent water, that in a few days there were more
than 200,000 gallons of that pure beverage in the well.
To celebrate the success of the undertaking, Mr. Henry Catt, a Guardian,
entertained the whole of the members of the Board, with the Vicar, and
their Officers, and likewise Mr. Huggett and his men, at a dinner at the
Town Hall, 120 guests sitting down to the repast under the presidency of
the delighted liberal donor, Mr. Churchwarden Marchant and Mr. Alderman
Brigden occupying the vice-chairs. As a memento, also, of the happy
event, Mr. Catt had silver medals struck by Mr. Norris, jeweller, West
Street, one of which was given to each man who had worked in the Well.
The medals bore the inscription: "By the blessing of God, on hard work,
patience, and perseverance," and "Warren Farm Well, Brighton. Water
found, March 16th, 1862." The medal presented to Mr. Huggett was of
gold.
Immediately consequent upon finding water for the establishment, was the
completion of the furnishing of the building and obtaining the requisite
staff of officers; and on Thursday, August 14th, 1862, the Institution
being ready for occupation, the juvenile portion of the inmates of the
Workhouse, 77 boys and 65 girls, were removed thither under the care of
the Industrial Schools' Committee, many other of the Guardians and their
friends taking part in the procession, which was headed by the Industrial
School band. Mr. and Mrs. Sattin, the Governor and Matron of the
Workhouse, also accompanied them to deliver over their youthful charge to
Mr. and Mrs. Hales, the Superintendents of the Schools. The occupation
of the Industrial Schools is at present the last public feature of the
Race Hill and adjacent Downs.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
PAST AND PRESENT PASTIMES.
Fickleness in the habits of civilized nations is in no manner more
clearly exemplified than in the pastimes of the people; for although many
sports are characterised as national, and are of great antiquity,
modernization has greatly destroyed their originality, and refinement has
detracted from the natural enjoyment of them. Even in the rural
districts of England, Harvest Home possesses but little of the rustic
homeliness and jollity of yore, and the happy season of Christmas lacks
the "Squires of Old," and the festivities and the freely dispensed
bounties of the Baronial Halls. In towns, especially those which come
under the denomination fashionable, there is a constant revolution in the
"rounds of amusements." Brighton has been particularly prominent in this
respect, a vast variety having run its course during the past century.
Without doubt the Toy Fair, now in a wretched state of decadence, was the
earliest people's festival. It was formerly held on the Cliff, between
Ship Street and Black-Lion Street; but the town increasing and the Fair
assuming a corresponding magnitude, Belle Vue field, whereon now stands
Regency Square, was its location. From thence it was translated to the
Level, where, on the 4th of September, 1807, a Sheep Fair was first held,
notification of the same having been in the _Brighton Herald_, and in the
_Weekly Journal_, published at Lewes, as follows:--
The rapid strides which agriculture has made within the last ten
years, in this country, and the extreme utility which has been the
result of its present scientific mode of practice, has commanded the
attention and admiration not only of all England, but of all
civilised Europe. To those who are interested in the purchase of any
particular breed of stock, it must be of extreme importance that
their stock be _genuine_ and uncontaminated.
To fix, therefore, a spot where a pure unmixed breed shall always be
produced, and where the purchaser (who perhaps comes from a distance)
shall be sure of unadulterated stock, appears to be a great
desideratum. In no instance is it more so than in that useful and
highly productive animal, the South Down Sheep. Those who possess
this breed, true and genuine, have had much reason to lament that at
fairs, where a great variety of sheep are brought to market, many are
sold for South Down Sheep which have no pretensions to be so called;
and which afterwards not answering the purpose of the buyers, bring
unmerited disgrace on such as are really genuine. We, therefore, the
undersigned breeders of true South Down Sheep, have come to a
resolution to establish a Fair, to be holden on Brighton Level, the
4th of September, 1807. And we pledge ourselves to bring to it
genuine South Down Tups, Stock Ewes, Ewe Lambs, and Wether Lambs; and
moreover we will not, knowingly, either ourselves introduce, or
suffer to be introduced to this Fair any but what shall be of the
_genuine_ and _true_ South Down breed:
Alexander, W.
Blaker, N.
Beard, T.
Ball, J.
Boys, J.
Bine, --
Botting, J.
Beard, N.
Blaker, G.
Chatfield, J.
Croskey, S.
Dyer, R. L.
Elmes, W.
Fuller, H.
Falconer, W.
Gorring, W.
Geer, T.
Hardwick, J.
Hodson, W.
Hodson, T.
Hamshar, J.
Hamshar, R.
Hall, N.
Hart, R.
Hodson, A. W.
Hurley, R.
Ingram, J.
Lidbetter, T.
Murrell, W.
Marchant, J.
Newnham, --
Noakes, W.
Pilfold, J.
Poole, T.
Page, W.
Stanford, W.
Scrase, W.
Scrase, T.
Vallance, J.
Verrall, R.
Wood, J.
About 20,000 prime South Down sheep of all denominations found a ready
sale, buyers being plentiful. That year, on the same day, the general
Fair was held on the Marlborough Steine, the southernmost of the present
North Steine Enclosures, where gingerbread stalls, whirligigs, and
roundabouts were in abundance. The next year the Sheep Fair was equally
well attended; but notwithstanding the most strenuous exertions of its
promoters, it had but an existence of four years. A Cattle Market was
established on a piece of the Parish Ground on the Church Hill, adjoining
the West Hill Estate, in 1831. Like the Sheep Fair, however, it had but
a few years' duration, there being no meadows near for the accommodation
of stock. The Corn Market, by sample, is held every Thursday, at the
King and Queen Inn, in a spacious and commodious room. From the Level,
where Gully and Cribb, on the 11th of August, 1807, in the presence of
the Prince of Wales and his Royal Brothers, had a sparring match, the
town authorities eventually ejected the Spring and Autumn pleasure Fair,
which has since sought refuge upon any available spot contiguous. A few
years more and it will be amongst the things of the past.
The Level has at various periods been the arena for the festivals in
celebration of important national events, as on the 19th July, 1821, upon
the occasion of the coronation of George IV., when two bullocks were
roasted whole, and distributed hot, and four, previously dressed, were
served out, the expenses being defrayed by a public subscription. The
roasting of the two bullocks commenced on the preceding night, when
partial fires were kindled to heat the carcasses through the thickest
part. But about five o'clock in the morning the real roasting commenced.
The grates were then piled high with blazing fuel, and a savoury vapour
spread through the atmosphere. About six, one of the spits, a stout
scaffold pole, gave way under its ponderous weight, but at the expense
only of an additional spar, and a score or so of blistered fingers.
The work of carving commenced shortly after two o'clock, when Mr. Thomas
Palmer, the King's cutler, in a waggon converted into a suitable platform
for such a display, decorated with devices and waving streamers, and
containing several hogsheads of ale, presented to Mr. John Vallance, the
Chairman of the Managing Committee, a carving knife and fork, and a
corkscrew, all of extensive dimensions, with the request that the
coronation beef might be carved with the former, and the bungs extracted
from the casks by the latter, and that they might be furthermore
preserved by the local authorities, for use on similar occasions. The
work of carving occupied about an hour, during which time many thousands
of persons partook of the hot and the cold.
At this period there lived in a hut of very rude construction, consisting
of but one room, on the southern incline of Round Hill, Corporal Staines,
an old marine who served under Nelson at the siege of Copenhagen. He was
very crippled, and obtained his living by exhibiting his miniature
fortifications, constructed by himself of chalk, the soldiers and cannons
which surmounted the battlements being likewise formed of chalk; as was
also a very rude model of the gallant ship, the Victory, bearing, under a
black canopy, a coffin containing the body of the Hero of Trafalgar.
Upon great national anniversaries and festivities it was his custom to
fire Royal salutes from four pistol barrels which he had formed as a
battery, and every day he was accustomed to fire the sun-set gun. While
the feast was being made off the roasted oxen, the old corporal fired a
Royal salute, for which he was rewarded with a good substantial dinner
and a compliment of money, besides presents which were made him by the
holiday folk. Corporal Staines first took up his abode at Brighton in a
cavern hewn in the Church Hill chalk-pit, the site--filled up,--of the east
end of Upper North Street. Agreeing with his residence in the chalk-pit
is the following entry in the Vestry book:--
October 2nd, 1809.--That Corporal Staines be allowed a blanket and a
great coat during the winter.
Staines removed from the chalk pit to a hut constructed by himself,
immediately east of the Manor Pound, then at the back of the Parish
Church, on the spot now occupied by the entrance of the northern Burial
Ground, contiguous to which were the Parish Stocks, that were afterwards
removed to the Market Place, in the Bartholomews. Upon the re-building
of the Market, the Stocks were placed against its southern wall at the
back of the Thatched House Inn, where, after remaining a few years as a
relic of a barbarous age, they went to decay. In 1824, the Pound was
removed to the north-west corner of the Workhouse grounds, on the Dyke
Road. In course of time, however, it became obsolete for the impounding
of cattle, and in 1853 it was purchased by the parish of the Lord of the
Manor, for 100. For some years after his removal from Church Hill, the
old marine took up his abode in the east bank of the pond at the junction
of the old Shoreham and Ditchling Roads, on Rose Hill; but when the
ground adjacent was enclosed by Mr. Colbatch, he translated himself to
just without its eastern boundary wall, on the incline of the hill which
commands an uninterrupted view of the Level and the Steine in general.
He ended his days in Brighton Workhouse.
The earliest town record of the Proclamation of a Sovereign is a minute
of Vestry, date, March 19th, 1701, which runs thus:--
Israel Paine, Constable, being accompanyed with the chief Inhabitants
of the town (after open proclamation made by the Cryer) did in the
mercat place about Eleven of the clock in the forenoon, solemnly
proclaim our Gratious Sovereign Lady QUEEN ANNE, Queen off England,
Scotland, France, and Ireland; upon which there followed great
shoutings and acclamations of all the people. Saying, GOD SAVE QUEEN
ANNE.
The coronation of Her present Majesty was celebrated on the Level, June
28th, 1838, in a similar manner to that of George IV. The last occasion
of public rejoicing there was to commemorate the Peace with Russia in
1855. The great Peace Festival, consequent upon the overthrow of the
sovereignty of Napoleon Bonaparte, on his retiring to Elba, took place on
the 12th of August, 1814, on the Prince Regent's Cricket Ground, which
occupied the extreme north of the Level, immediately in front of the
Peircy Alms Houses, Lewes Road. The animated scene which the Cricket
Ground presented on the memorable occasion was, in the highest degree,
interesting. Seventy-five double rows of tables were formed, each in an
oblong square, open at the bottom only, and each adapted for the
accommodation of one hundred and twenty-two persons. These were
furnished in a plentiful manner, with true old English fare of roast beef
and plum puddings, garnished with a suitable number of hogsheads of ale
and brown stout, at convenient distances, giving an air of hospitable
importance to the whole. At each table a president was appointed, with
six assistants, under the denomination of stewards; the former wearing
white sashes, with the inscription, "Brighton Festival," and the latter
purple and white favours, bearing the number of the table at which they
were to officiate, affixed at the left breast. Flags of blue silk,
lettered in gold, "Peace," "Wellington," "Blucher," &c., waved at the
head of the various tables, where were seated upwards of 7,000 persons.
At two o'clock a bugle sounded from No. 1 table, at which presided the
Rev. J. Carr (Vicar), who rose and pronounced the following benediction:--
O Thou who art the great God of Nations, Thou hast filled our hearts
with joy by the restoration of Peace and the prospect of Plenty: we
meet under the canopy of Heaven as members of Thy family. May this
Festival be crowned with Thy blessing, and may our lives express the
gratitude which Thy goodness inspires, for the sake of Jesus Christ
our Lord. Amen.
This was repeated by Mr. Robert Ackerson (High Constable) at the lower
table, and by the Presidents of the other tables severally, and then the
busy scene of feasting commenced in the presence of some thousands of
spectators, who, in carriages, waggons, carts, and caravans, took up
their positions just without the boundary rails.
The sound of the second bugle having announced the dinner at an end, the
Vicar rose and thus returned thanks:--
Merciful Father, our grateful hearts acknowledge Thy goodness; may
Charity ever assist the poor, and the poor confess their infinite
obligations unto Thee, as the Bountiful Giver of all their blessings,
through Jesus Christ our Lord. Amen.
The following toasts and airs then succeeded, the Band of the 3rd Buffs
being in attendance and adding to the pleasures of the fete:--
Our Good Old King.--"God Save the King."
The Prince Regent.--"Rule Britannia."
The Queen and Royal Family.--"The Brunswick March."
The Duke of Wellington.--"See the Conquering Hero comes."
The Allied Sovereigns.--"The March to Paris."
Louis XVIII.--"Henri Quatre."
May Peace produce Plenty and Plenty Gratitude.--"Speed the Plough."
Prosperity and Unanimity to the Town of Brighton.--"Tight little
Island."
The after part of the day was devoted to dancing, blind-man's-buff,
jingling matches, foot-racing, stool-ball, kiss-in-the-ring, jumping in
sacks, &c.; and the happy throng concluded the day by joining hands and
forming long chains of human beings, and thus in high glee they "threaded
the tailor's needle" to Castle Square, where, after singing "God Save the
King," they, in the most orderly manner, dispersed, and made for their
several homes.
Cricket was a favourite pastime with the Prince of Wales, who was
frequently engaged in the manly game with the noblemen and gentlemen of
his suite, on the Royal Ground, which had been granted for his use by Mr.
Thomas Reed Kemp, the Lord of the Manor. His Royal Highness, however,
upon coming to the throne, retired from cricket, and hence the Ground was
given up. Mr. Kemp then made the grant of a portion of it to the Town
for the recreation of the inhabitants, and the road to the north of the
Level was formed.
In 1822, an enterprising townsman, Mr. James Ireland, became the
purchaser of ten acres of the land immediately north of the road, and in
the following year, Ireland's Gardens and Cricket Ground were opened to
the public. The original entrance was at the south-west comer, where was
a neat lodge that conducted to the cricket ground, and an excellent
bowling green, with raised banks, and a billiard room with colonnade and
rustic seats in front. At the lower or east end was the tavern
department, the Hanover Arms Inn, where, also, was an excellent fives'
court. The Gardens were approached either by crossing the Cricket
Ground, or by a separate road that skirted the property.
Mr. Ireland was the successor of Mr. Daniel Constable, who, with his
brother William as shopman, commenced May 29th, 1802, the drapery
business, now the well-known establishment of Messrs. Hannington and Son,
at No. 3, North Street. Mr. Ireland became the purchaser of the business
in 1806, and it passed from him to the late Mr. Hannington, the successor
also, at No. 4, of Mr. William Diplock, who, in the summer of 1819, when
Brighton churchyard was despoiled of its dead, announced himself as sole
agent for the sale of patent metallic coffins, of the security of which
he assured the public, every person would be satisfied. Previous to the
formation of the Hanover Grounds, Mr. Ireland carried on the business of
woollen draper and undertaker at No. 10, North Street.
A noble and conspicuous building, comprising reading, refreshment, and
dressing rooms on the basement, and an elegant promenade room, eighty
feet by thirty feet, over them, formed the junction of the Cricket Ground
with the Gardens, just within the entrance of which was the ladies'
bowling green, surrounded by a beautiful lawn and tea arbours. There
were likewise, adjacent, an aviary and a grotto. A Gothic tower and
gateway approached by a bridge that spanned a piece of water at the north
end of the main central avenue, was the entrance to a Maze, in the centre
of which was a Merlin swing. From the want of that support from the
public which was due to Mr. Ireland, for the spirit he evinced in so
zealously catering for their entertainment, the thousands which he
expended were entirely lost to him, and he retired from that which ought
to have been a benefit to the town and himself, a ruined man.