THE STEINE AND ITS TRIBUTARIES.
No part of Brighton has undergone so many changes during the last century
as the Steine, which was at first the drying-ground for fishermen's nets
and the "laying-up" place for such boats as were not in use at particular
fishing seasons of the year. The term Steine is of Flemish origin, and
is derived from _Ein_, _Stein_, or _Steen_, a rock, as at the time when
the town received its Flemish colony, the southern extremity of the
valley in which Brighton lay was edged and protected from the sea by a
ledge of chalk rocks, and from these the name Steine, or rocky, was given
to the field or meadow, which was called the Steine Field. The word is
generally, but erroneously written Steine, in conformity with the old
corrupt spelling of the Normans and Normanized English in this country.
"The final _e_," says Paul Dunvan, "which our ancestors borrowed from the
French language, was apposite to the genius and usage of the Saxon and
Teutonic: and in the modern English language, the use of it is admissible
in words of Saxon origin, only to denote the elongation of the preceding
vowel, or the liquidity of the letter _g_. The obvious power, therefore,
of the dipthong _ei_ makes the attendance of this Norman lackey after the
Teutonic noun, Stein, or Steen, totally unnecessary." The addition of
the final _e_ is a modern innovation, as on the Court Rolls of a Court
Baron, held for the Manor of Brighthelmston-Lewes, is the following
entry:--"March (27 Elizabeth) it is ordered, that no hog go unringed on
the Stein, where nets lie, under a penalty of eight-pence _toties
quoties_."
In 1779, according to a map of that date, the only building on the east
side of the Steine, was Thomas's Library; just to the north-west of
which, on the grass, was a slight erection much after the style of the
judge's stand at races. This structure was the orchestra, in which the
town band, of three performers, discoursed their music under their
leader, Mr. Anthony Crook, whose instrument was the trombone. The side
of the hill whereon St. James's Street, Edward Street, and the numerous
streets which swell the town to the east and north-east now stand, was,
"a delightful and rich tract of down, arable and pasture:" and in an old
print of Brighthelmston, in 1765, reapers are represented employed in
cutting and teams of oxen in carrying the crops on the ground now
occupied by the Marine Parade, Grand Parade, &c. Thomas's Library was
the building now modernized and in the occupation of the Electric
Telegraph Company. The Steine at that period was of much larger
dimensions than at present. In Godwin's rental mention is made of "the
common pound of Brighthelston manor, together with a cottage and garden
adjoining the said pound, situate on the Steine on the west side of East
Street;" and in the same rental a bowling-green on the Steine is
occasionally mentioned.
In tempestuous weather and during the winter, the boats of the fishermen
were hauled up for safety on the Steine. A Diarist, dating his
memorandum, Wednesday, September 8th, 1778, says, "An old well is half
open among the boats; a little child has just now waddled off the Steyne
towards it. I ran to prevent mischief, and succeeded.--Have remonstrated
against this dangerous neglect in vain. There are one dry and two wet
wells open thereabouts. When a child of fortune or two shall have been
lost therein, the wells may be boarded over.--The Commissioners by the Act
have sufficient powers, and collect money enough to answer its purposes;
yet the Cliff-side is all along covered with rubbish, offensive to the
sight and smell. Indeed, there is no occasion to search much for
nuisances, obstructions, and inconveniences, in this place.--_Mem._--Since
the above complaint, some loose boards have been laid across one of the
wet wells."
In the time of Elizabeth, and even at a more recent date, the inhabitants
were wholly supplied with water from the public wells, which were town
property, under the control of the Lords of the different Manors. Thus,
at a Court Baron held for the Manor of Brighthelmston-Lewes, in October
(20 Elizabeth) a bye-law was made that nothing should be laid within four
feet of any well within the said Manor. On the Court Rolls, also, of the
same Manor, appears the following:--"April (19 Jac.) it is ordered at the
Court-Leet, that a building which Richard Scrase, gentleman, has erected
over the common well in the upper end of North Street, shall not convey
to the said Scrase, or his heirs, any right in the said well, more than
as an inhabitant." This well remained in use till within the last few
years, and was known as the Unicorn Yard well, and was situate in the
present space immediately in front of Blaber's eating-house, at the south
end of Windsor Street. Another well was in West Street, in the water
channel before the premises now occupied by Mr. Feldwick, cabinet maker.
The curb of it was raised, on a brick-work platform, around which was the
main watercourse of the street. About eighty years ago, in consequence
of the well becoming an impediment to the increased traffic in the
street, and being but little used, it was domed over, and for some years
a square stone at the edge of the pavement marked its site. The other
town wells still in use by means of pumps, are on the Knab; in East
Street, by the Sussex Arms, formerly the Spread Eagle; in Market Street,
opposite Payne's Hotel; and in Pool Valley, adjoining the Duke of
Wellington Inn. The well situate just without the poultry portion of the
Market, and likewise the one in Little East Street, from being put out of
use by the service of the Water Company, have been closed over, as has
also the great northern well which but a few years since supplied a large
tank that was erected on the area between St. Peter's Church Enclosure
and the Level, for the street watering service. The remaining town wells
and their pumping gear, now out of use, are situate, one at the Grafton
Street Police Station, and the other under the roadway at the entrance to
the Pier Esplanade, at the bottom of the Steine. The pump of the last
mentioned well, about forty years since, was worked by a donkey, which
traversed, "on the getting up stairs" principle, the interior of a wheel
that was fitted to the groyne. On a brisk March day, however, when the
wind was blowing up more of the dust of that month than is proverbially
required to be equal in worth with a king's ransom, while the machinery
was working under the influence of the usual propelling power, Old Father
Neptune, as if envious of the poor animal's dominion over the aqueous
element, mounted a foaming billow and rushed into the wheel after the
donkey. Neddy's good genius, who was in constant attendance upon
him,--just to sharpen his appetite for work when he felt disposed for a
rest,--luckily superseded the design of the mythological sovereign of the
deep, by whipping-out his quadruped friend, before the turbulent king
could lash around him. This increased the rage of Neptune, who, on
retiring to his deep abode, bodily tore away the wheel and its fixings.
Previous to the supply from the town pumps, the water for the streets was
obtained from the sea. The water carts then were of the most primitive
description, and consisted of barrels on wheels, similar to those now in
use for the conveyance of water upon farms. But they had in addition,
fixed at the backs of them, an oblong perforated box each, for the
distribution of the water, which was supplied from the barrels by pulling
out plugs of wood that projected into the boxes. The barrels were filled
by backing them some distance into the sea, when the water was lifted
into funnels fitted to the bung holes, by a species of scoop at the end
of a pole, the operator of this intelligent process the while, standing
on the shafts of the carts, or Bacchus like, and hare-legged, bestriding
the barrels.
The Steine then was entirely open, and was a country walk for visitors.
That is to say, in the Spring, Summer, and Autumn; as in Winter time,
from its then lying very hollow, the southern part was generally flooded,
and in severe weather the sheet of ice which was there formed was a
general rendezvous for sliding and skating. When fashion made the Steine
a place of public resort, attention was paid by the town authorities, to
make it in some degree, attractive. The ground was made level, and
verdure was encouraged to ornament it. On it the old Duke of Cumberland,
of Fontenoy, delighted to turn out the stag and hunt the bounding deer,
as the place was entirely open to the full extent of the Downs; and the
inhabitants were gratified with repeated spectacles of the kind,
sometimes as often as twice or thrice in a season.
Sports of a less aristocratic character sometimes took place here, as the
following extract from the _Morning Herald_ will verify:--
1805, September 11th.--A pony race on the Level, this morning afforded
much diversion to a very numerous assemblage of spectators. After
this, donkey races took place: seven started for the first heat, and
what is very singular, two, on this starting, ran a _dead heat_; a
circumstance, probably, with quadrupeds of this sluggish tribe, never
recorded in the annals of sporting. The donkies having performed
their task, the company removed to the Steyne, to the South, where
_jumping in sacks_, and a jingling match kept hilarity alive for
about two hours longer.
There were Jenkinses of the Press even at this period, who watched with
keen eye the doings of royalty, and of the nobility, as will be seen by
the following extracts:--
_Morning Herald_, August 9, 1805.--This morning, the Prince of Wales
and the Duke of Sussex honoured the Steyne Promenade with their
presence, and for a short time before dinner, rode on horseback. Mr.
Mellish drove Lord Barrymore's curricle two or three times round the
Steyne, this morning. The quartern loaf here, now sells for one
shilling and six pence.
August 19th.--The Duke of Sussex rode out in an open barouche and
amused himself in smoking a pipe.
The following are also extracts from a private diary kept in 1805:--
August 4th.--The Cliff Parade, from the South end of the Steine to the
unfinished Crescent, displayed much genteel company this afternoon.
The Cyprian Corps have much increased in number within the last two
or three days. We have now _little French Milliners_ in every part
of the town.
August 27th.--Townshend and Sayers, two Bow Street officers, arrived
here this morning, in quest of an individual who has been guilty of a
burglary in the metropolis. They had been here but a short time when
the object they were in search of, in a laced livery, was descried by
them in the act of crossing the Steine. They took him into custody,
and having ornamented his wrists with a pair of iron ruffles, they
bore him off in triumph to London.
September 19th.--About half-past one o'clock the Prince of Wales
returned from a walk to the west of the Steine, to the Pavilion. His
Royal Highness, who was habited in a black coat and waistcoat, and
nankeen pantaloons, appeared rather lame from the recent hurt he had
received in his ankle. He walked with a stick, of sufficient
dimensions occasionally to bear his weight.
September 26th.--The Duke of Clarence was to-day, for a short time, on
the Steine. Some of His Highness's sons are at this time here, and
were under the military instructions of a sergeant of the South
Gloucester Militia this morning on the Pavilion lawn.
The Steine was first partially enclosed with common hurdles; then it was
partly paved and railed in. At last the present massive iron railings
were erected. But not as they at present stand. They surrounded a much
larger area, and the lamp-posts were the main standards, the rails being
fastened in them. At that period the paving around the Steine, under the
then Town Surveyor, Mr. Thomas Harman, was considered a masterpiece of
the art of paving in brick. Previous to this improvement, there was no
carriage road completely round the Steine, vehicles of every description,
from Castle Square to Prince's Street, having to pass down the west of
the Steine and Pool Valley, along at the back of the York Hotel, up the
east of the Steine, and by way of the back of (now) the Telegraph Office,
down St. James's Street, and then along by the eastern side of the north
Steine, as posts erected across from the Castle Tavern to the Steine
railings admitted only of foot-traffic, and the coaches for London and
Lewes went from Castle Square by way of North Street, New Road, Church
Street, &c. The road across from Castle Square to St. James's Street was
effected on Easter Monday, March 31st, 1834, and appeared to be a work of
magic, as the long-desired improvement had met with opposition from
parties who feared the alteration would affect their interest in property
from which the traffic would be diverted. The resolution was passed by
the Commissioners, and on the day above-mentioned, the "trick" was done,
although the opposition hastened to town to procure an injunction from
the Lord Chancellor; as it so happened, that it was the Easter vacation,
so his Lordship could not he approached till all the alterations had been
performed. On the reinstating of the iron railings, the lamp-posts were
placed at the edge of the pavement, as hitherto, half of the light from
the lamps had been cast on the space within the railings, where it was
not required. The posts still show the holes through which the iron
railings passed when they were in their original position.
The chief modern features on the Old Steine are the statue of George IV.,
the Fountain, and the Russian guns. The first was put up on the 11th of
October, 1828. The idea of its erection originated with a party of
tradesmen, who were accustomed to assemble nightly at the King's Arms,
George Street; but a subscription which remained open for more than eight
years and a half did not provide the sum, 3,000, agreed to be paid
Chantry for his artistic skill. The Fountain, known as the Victoria
Fountain, was also erected by subscription, procured through the
indefatigable exertions of Mr. Cordy Burrows, to whom also the credit is
due for the planting of the Steines with flowers and trees. The Fountain
was inaugurated on the 25th of May, 1846. The design of the structure
was furnished by Mr. Henry Wilds, the model of the dolphins by Mr.
William Pepper, and the ironwork was cast at the Eagle Foundry. The
rock-work upon which the dolphins rest is formed of huge sand-stones,
called in Wiltshire and Berkshire, "Grey Weathers," and breccia, or
pudding-stone, which for lengthened periods had lain in Goldstone Bottom,
on the Dyke Road, and fields adjacent, by many persons considered to be
the remains of Druidical temples or altars. But such a notion must be
fallacious, as, at a very recent date, similar accumulations of
sand-stone have been dug up about the western part of Brighton, where the
soil exhibits many irregularities which geologists are unable to account
for. An instance of this occurred in digging out the ground for the
foundation of the tower of All Saints' Church, Buckingham Place, the soil
to a considerable depth at one particular spot, being so loose and
treacherous that great ingenuity and care had to be observed--attended
with great expense,--by Messrs. Cheesman and Son, the builders, to make
the foundation secure. A stone also, of the character termed Druidical
_cromlech_, was dug out while preparing for the foundation of the present
Brighton Workhouse, and was used for the corner stone of the building.
In excavating the ground likewise, in 1823, for laying in the gas-pipes
across the Steine, from Castle Square to the corner of the Marine Parade,
huge unshapen blocks of a like character were turned up. The last
memento on the Steine, the Russian guns, are relics of the siege of
Sebastopol.
The old maps shew a piece of water on the Steine, between the Castle
Tavern and the Pavilion, formed by the spring which rose at Patcham and
used to flow by the Pool--Pool Valley. In the year 1793, the Prince of
Wales and the Duke of Marlborough, whose house stood at the north end of
the Marine Pavilion, made an arched sewer along the Steine, to carry away
this water into the sea, and, in consideration of the expense and
improvement, the Lords of the Manor, with consent of the homage, gave his
Royal Highness and the Duke permission to rail in or enclose a certain
portion of the Steine, adjoining their houses respectively, but never to
build on or encumber it with any thing that might obstruct the prospect,
or in any other way be a nuisance to the Steine. A barn which stood at
this spot, the property of Mr. Howell, as shewn in the view of the
Steine, 1765, was moved, at the request of the Prince of Wales, to the
top of Church Street, into the field whereon also stood the Infantry
Barracks Hospital, a wooden building that occupied the site of the
Hanover Chapel Burial Ground. There were two main entrances to the
sewer. One was about the centre of the road,--along which the water
channel ran,--opposite the Pavilion Parade; and the other was in the
roadway immediately to the east of the entrance to Castle Square from the
Steine. Each was protected by a wooden railing in a triangular form.
The sewer discharged itself by means of a square wooden trunk at the back
of Williams's Baths, now the south front of the Lion Mansion.
In 1785-6, the first houses on the South Parade, the east side of the
Steine south of St. James's Street, began to be erected, and in a few
years the whole of them, as well as the extensive range of buildings
which forms the North Parade, were completed.
Mrs. Fitzherbert's mansion, now the residence of W. Furner, Esq., the
Judge of the County Court of this district, adjoining the present mansion
of Captain Thellusson, was built in 1804. On the site now occupied by
the square block of buildings that form the north-east corner of Castle
Square, about forty years since, stood the Castle Tavern, which had been
one of the chief rendezvous of royalty, the nobility, and the gentry. It
was originally a very small house, but being considered the best in the
town for a tavern, it was purchased by Mr. Shergold, who opened it under
the sign of the Castle, in 1755. Such was its success, in consequence of
the increase of visitors to the town, that, in 1776, Messrs. Tilt and
Best joined him in partnership, and the premises were greatly extended.
In 1790, the other parties having given up the business, Mr. Tilt carried
on the undertaking, and he was succeeded by his widow. In 1814, Messrs.
Gilburd and Harryett became the proprietors. It attained the acme of its
celebrity when in the hands of Mr. Tilt, who attached to the
establishment an elegant suite of Assembly and Concert Rooms, built with
great taste and judgment by Mr. Crunden, of Park Street, London, in 1776.
The Ball Room was rectangular, 80 feet by 40 feet, with recesses at each
end and side, 16 feet by 4 feet, decorated with columns corresponding
with the pilasters which were continued round the room, dividing the
sides and ends into a variety of compartments, ornamented with paintings
from the Admirander and the Vatican, representing a portion of the story
of Cupid and Psyche, and the Aldrobrandini marriage; with air-nymphs and
divers other figures, in the ancient grotesque style. The ceiling was
curved, and formed an arch of one fifth of the height of the room, which
was 35 feet. Over the entablature, at each end of the room, was a large
painting; the one a representation of Aurora, and the other a figure of
Nox. In 1814, a beautifully toned organ by Flight and Robson was erected
at the north end of the room.
In the season, from August to March, Assemblies were held every Monday.
These were under the management of Masters of the Ceremonies, the first
of whom were, in 1805, Mr. Yart at the Old Ship, and Mr. William Wade at
the Castle. They were succeeded by Mr. J. S. Forth, in 1808. He acted
in the same capacity at the Old Ship and the Castle Assemblies.
Lieut.-Col. Eld succeeded Mr. Forth, and at his decease, December 22nd,
1855, the office fell into disuse; in fact, for some years previous to
the decease of the Colonel his services were rarely required, the
progress of the age having rendered such an office null and void. The
duties of the Masters of the Ceremonies consisted in watching minutely
the arrival of the nobility and gentry. For this purpose he attended the
Libraries and Hotels regularly once or more a-day to copy the lists of
the latest visitors, at whose addresses he then called and left his card,
a hint that they should enter their names in his book, which lay at the
principal places of fashionable resort, and with each entry deposit a
guinea with the custodian of the M.C.'s book, who received a per centage
for his trouble and attention. The payment of the fee ensured a mutual
recognition upon all occasions of meeting between the giver and the
receiver during that visit of the donor at Brighton, and, on the
occasions of balls and assemblies, he was expected to make all the
necessary arrangements, and for dances provide all unprovided ladies and
gentlemen with partners. Masters of the Ceremonies originated at a
period when balls and routs terminated at ten o'clock in the evening,
when "We won't go home till morning," had not come into vogue, but the
sedan chair of "my lady" was in punctual attendance, and the fair burden
was wafted home to admit of repose before midnight, and to give the
sterner sex an opportunity for a carouse or a spree.
The following is an extract from a private diary:--"July 30th, 1805. This
evening, at nine o'clock, the first assembly of the season, the Grand
Rose Ball, was held at the Castle Inn, under the patronage of the Prince
of Wales. The Ball Room is large, lofty, and noble, and commands a full
view of the Steyne; looks, also, into the Pavilion Gardens, the beautiful
shrubberies of which are worthy of the Royal resident. The ceiling forms
an arch, and is painted to represent the rising sun. Every part of the
room is ornamented with various masterly paintings of classical
antiquity. It was lighted up in a superior style, suited to the dignity
of the guests, with three cut-glass chandeliers, 100 lights, and forty
lustres and side-lights. The Prince entered the room at half-past nine,
and at ten o'clock the Ball opened."
During the erection of the Royal Stables, in Church Street, in 1809, a
carpenter, who lived in Jew Street, named John Butcher, uncle to Mr.
Butcher, of the present firm, Messrs. Cheesman and Butcher, chinamen,
North Street, accidentally fell and injured himself. Upon his recovery,
not being able to resume the heavy work of his trade, he constructed a
machine of a similar make to the sedan chair, and placed it upon four
wheels. It was drawn by hand, in the same manner as Bath chairs, while
an assistant, when the person being conveyed was heavy, pushed behind.
Its introduction was quite a favourite feature amongst the nobility, and
a second fly, in consequence, was soon constructed. These two vehicles
were extensively patronized by the Prince of Wales and his noble
companions; and from being employed by them on special occasions of a
midnight "lark," they received the name of "Fly-by-nights," and soon
entirely superseded sedan-chairs, except for invalids on their conveyance
to and from the Baths. Butcher, from the great success which attended
his project, being desirous that his flys should have a more elegant
appearance than his ability in the ornamental could effect, sent one of
them, for the purpose of being repainted and varnished, to Mr. Blaker,
coach-maker, Regent Street, and he, having an eye to business, purloined
the design, and improved upon it by making two or three to be drawn by
horses. The most remarkable vehicle of this description, for the
conveyance of one passenger only, was that made for Mr. George Battcock,
surgeon, who died on the 3rd of February last. It was called Dr.
Battcock's "Pill Box."
When George IV. expressed a desire of converting the Castle Assembly Room
into a Chapel to be attached to the Royal Pavilion, the fee simple of it
was transferred to his Majesty, and as a tavern attached to a place of
divine worship would be a great incongruity, the transfer of the license
of the Castle was made to premises in Steine Place, the Royal York Hotel,
so designated in reference to the Royal Duke, Frederick, whose permission
for the name was applied for and obtained from his Royal Highness. The
house was opened by Mr. Sheppard.
The Royal Albion Hotel, which has so conspicuous a position to the south
of the Steine, occupies the spot whereon formerly stood Russell House,
once the residence of Dr. Russell, and afterwards of the Duke of
Cumberland. In 1805, it was the residence of Miss Johnson. It stood
abruptly to the sea, the waves in stormy weather laving the brick
boundary wall to the south. Immediately under its east wall was Haines's
Repository for toys, where, too, was also an apartment in which were
exhibited the wonders of the Camera Obscura. The Junction Road now
occupies the site; it was a favourite lounge with visitors. The latter
years of Russell House were of a remarkable character, some portion of it
being devoted by its owner, Mr. John Colbatch, to copper-plate printing;
while in the largest apartment the wonders of Khia Khan Khruse, the chief
of the Indian Jugglers, were exhibited, in the Autumn of 1822. The
building eventually had a most neglected appearance, and was pulled down.
The purchase of the space then was contemplated by the town, in order to
keep open the southern extremity of the Steine to the sea. Mr. Colbatch
required 6,000 for it, a sum which the Town Commissioners assented to
give; but after numerous delays the bargain was off, and soon the present
noble building rose to shut out the southern aspect from the Steine.
In 1792, during the Revolution which deluged France in its own blood,
there was a great influx of refugees from Dieppe to Brighton, to escape
the savage and unrelenting fury of their persecutors. On the 29th of
August, that year, the Marchioness of Beaule landed at the bottom of the
Steine, having paid two hundred guineas at Dieppe, for her passage
across, and even then she was under the necessity of appearing in the
dress of a sailor, and as such she assisted the crew during the whole
voyage, not only to disguise herself, but in order to bring with her,
undiscovered, a favourite female, whom she conveyed on board in a trunk,
in which holes were bored to give her air. His Royal Highness the Prince
of Wales, with Mrs. Fitzherbert and Miss Isabella Pigot, received them on
landing, and the Prince escorted them to the Earl of Clermont's, where
tea was provided for His Royal Highness and twenty of his friends. On
the 20th of September, two packets landed several persons of distinction,
amongst whom were the Archbishop of Aix, and Count Bridges, one of the
household of the hapless Louis XVI. Many priests were amongst the
refugees, for the relief of whom subscriptions to a considerable amount
were made, for the purpose of relieving their immediate necessities, and
to enable them to pursue their journey to London. On Wednesday, October
20th, thirty-seven nuns, in the habit of their order, were landed near
Shoreham from the Prince of Wales packet, commanded by Captain Burton.
Their destination was Brussels, where a convent was being prepared for
them. It had been intended that they should disembark at Brighton, but
the roughness of the sea prevented it. Captain Burton's daughter was
married to Mr. William Wigney, a north countryman, who had then recently
settled in Brighton, in North Street, where he kept a linen-draper's
shop. The house,--which he purchased of Lord Leslie, afterwards Lord
Rother, who married Henrietta Ann, daughter of the first Earl of
Chichester,--he paid for in French money, which he had received in
exchange for English coin from the refugees brought over by his
father-in-law. It is related of him that he was not over scrupulous in
the way of business, of passing half-franc pieces for sixpences to the
unwary. He was afterwards the head of the firm of Messrs. Wigney,
Rickman, and Co., bankers, Steine Lane.
No part of Brighton has had a more varied character than the Steine.
From being the general depository of the materials of the aborigines, for
fishing, it became the place of rendezvous for the nobility and gentry,
the beaux and belles delighting to promenade there, expend their small
talk, and listen to the strains of the military bands which daily played
upon some portion of it. Even upon Sunday afternoons, so recently as
twenty-three years since, the sounds of music attracted immense crowds of
the inhabitants and visitors there. Frequent innovations, however, upon
its space having taken place, and the southern walks along the whole
front of the town, having, by their extension and commodiousness, become
the fashionable resort, the Steine has quieted down to a thoroughfare
that connects the east with the west portion of the town, and there is a
contentment that it shall remain an important lung of the borough.
During the agitation for the Reform Bill, when self-esteemed politicians
tried their 'prentice voice upon stump oratory, the Steine was the famous
arena for their eloquence. Where now, on gala days, the triple rampant
dolphins, which support on their entwined tails the basins of the
fountain, belave themselves, a waggon has formed the vehicle for the
conveyance of political sentiments under the guise of Toryism, Whigism,
Chartism, or any other ism that the whim, rage, or fashion of the day has
chanced to assume.
The most memorable event on the Steine was the dinner given there on the
3rd of September, 1830, to the children of the various charity schools in
the town, to commemorate the first visit of William IV. and Queen
Adelaide to Brighton. Their Majesties arrived on the previous Monday,
great preparations having been made for their reception, triumphal arches
and other erections forming emblems of rejoicing throughout the space
from the extreme north of the town, on the London Road, to the entrance
of the Pavilion Grounds. Probably, now, when there is so great a
facility for the transmission of large masses of people by means of the
railway, the numbers of persons who came into the town on the occasion,
would be considered of little moment; but then the quantity was estimated
as vast, vehicles of every description arriving in the town, heavily
laden with human beings, not only from all parts of the county, but even
the distance of two hundred miles was not considered too great to travel
in order to witness the imposing sight. For more than a week prior to
the appointed day, numbers of persons had arrived in the town to ensure
being present; and lodgings of every description were seized with
avidity, at--to use a commercial term--long prices. The stage coaches from
London,--many of which were specially placed on the road to meet the
demands,--were crowded to excess at extra fares; and the vans and spring
waggons--as they were termed--nightly bore heavy freights of provisions to
meet the anticipated rapid consumption.
Their Majesties arrived shortly after five o'clock, and were met by the
High Constable, the Clergy, and a Committee of the principal inhabitants,
the children of the various schools forming a line along the route
through which the royal carriages passed. The waving of handkerchiefs by
the ladies from the balconies, the shouts and huzzas of the people, the
roaring of cannon, the ringing of bells, the music of various bands, the
tramp of horses, the rattling of carriages, the floating of hundreds of
flags and banners, formed altogether a spectacle that had never been
previously, nor has it been since, equalled in Brighton. The crowning
feature of the day was a structure in the form of a triumphal arch, which
was of vast proportions, fifty feet in height, the opening of the arch
having a span of twenty-five feet, and the whole was clothed with
evergreens and flowers. The top was covered with a profusion of flags
and streamers, from the Hyperion frigate, then stationed at Newhaven, in
the midst of which flaunted the Standard of England. A body of sailors,
belonging to the Coast Blockade service, dressed in blue jackets and
white trousers, were arranged pyramidically on the top, and gave a
crowning character to the spectacle, as they gave three hearty cheers for
the "Sailor King." They were seventy in number, supplied by Captain
Mingaye, of the Hyperion. The structure was crowded with gaily dressed
ladies, and the galleries of the archway were filled with the girls of
Swan Downer's Charity School, and those of the National School, who at
that time wore green dresses and white mob caps. In the evening the town
was one blaze of light from a general illumination.
The preparations for dining the children were completed by noon on
Friday. Three rows of tables, with benches on each side, were ranged
round the whole area of the southern division of the Steine, which at
that time was one grass plot, to which the spectators were admitted by
tickets. The centre of the lawn was left entirely open, no persons being
allowed upon that portion except the committee of management and the
bands of the Horse and Foot Guards. At the southern extremity of this
open space was a capacious marquee, erected for the accommodation of
their Majesties. The interior was laid out very tastefully, and
refreshments were prepared. At its entrance waved the two large town
flags, supported by two of the Committee in blue sashes. Across the
pavement between the two divisions of the Steine a space was boarded off,
as also, across the northern division, and thence to the private entrance
of the Pavilion at the north end of the Steine. At this period posts and
rails skirted the outer edge of the pavement around the whole of the
Steine.
The spectators began to assemble on the pavement about one o'clock, at
which time the whole circumference outside the fence was belted with
carriages, some of which had taken up their position at an early hour in
the morning. The parade of the children to the grounds was a most
pleasing sight, their general cleanliness and their appearance of health
and happiness, imparting a most gratifying charm to the scene. By two
o'clock the whole of the children were seated, and the amphitheatre of
the Steine, gradually rising from the children at the tables to the
spectators that girted them, and then on to the carriages covered with
persons, and beyond that the thousands which crowded the windows,
balconies, and the very roofs of the houses that bound the Steine,
afforded a spectacle far more imposing than the most vivid imagination
can conceive.
Precisely at two o'clock, their Majesties, accompanied by the Princess
Augusta, the Landgravine of Hesse Homburgh, the Duke of Cambridge, Prince
George of Cambridge, Sir Augustus and Lady D'Este, and others, came
across from the Pavilion Grounds to the boarded-off avenue, where they
were met by the High Constable, who had received His Majesty's commands
to escort the royal party to the festive scene, where they received the
respects of the Magistrates, Clergy, and Gentry. Having surveyed the
scene for some time, their Majesties and suite passed along the line
close to the children, frequently returning the salutations of the people
with the utmost affability and condescension. Having returned to the
entrance, their Majesty's bowed to the vast assemblage and withdrew,
attended by their royal relatives. At that moment the regimental bands
struck up the National Anthem, and shouts simultaneously burst from every
lip. Even the children, whose eyes only, as yet, had been feasted, rose
and mingled their shrill voices with the harmony of throats.
It was calculated that more than 60,000 persons were present to view the
feeding of the youthful multitude, who, immediately on the Grace having
been said by the Rev. H. M. Wagner--Vicar,--were supplied with an unlimited
quantity of roast and boiled beef and plum pudding by the numerous
carvers who had volunteered their services, lady waitresses with the
utmost alacrity attending most assiduously upon the youthful guests. It
was an occasion that formed an epoch in the life of every person present.
On the occasion of the first visit of Queen Victoria to Brighton, October
4th, 1837, a similar banquet was given to the children upon the Steine.
The most celebrated public buildings of the Steine were the libraries,
which were the principal resort of the visitors. The first library here
was instituted by Mr. Woodgate, at the southern extremity, on the
premises at present occupied by Mr. Shaw, confectioner, and others,
contiguous to the York Hotel, where also was the Post Office. Mr.
Woodgate was succeeded by Miss Widget, who resigned it to Mr. Bowen;
after whom came Mr. Crawford, and, lastly, Mr. F. G. Fisher.
The other library was that of Mr. Thomas, after whom was Mr. Dudlow, who
was succeeded by Mr. James Gregory, whose successor, Mr. Donaldson,
resigned the establishment to Mr. Thomas Lucombe. Mr. Donaldson pulled
down the original low building in 1806, and erected the present
structure, which has however, since the carriage road has been formed in
front of it, been much modernized to suit the various businesses to which
the premises have been devoted.
"A Diarist," writing August 23rd, 1779, says, "There is a sort of rivalry
between the two Librarians on the Steyne, as to their subscription books;
which shall most justly deserve the title of the book of Numbers.--There
is a constant struggle between them, which shall be most courteous; and
the effects are those usually consequent upon an opposition. Sir
Christopher Caustic, this morning was turning over the leaves, at
Bowen's, which contains the names of the subscribers. Mr. Bowen bowed _a
la Novarre_ or _Gallini_, and with offered pen and ink, craved the honour
of--an additional name: this being his first season, and having been
purposely misinformed by some would be witty wag; 'Sir,' said Mr. Bowen,
displaying, all the time, two irregular rows of remarkably white teeth,
'yours will stand immediately after that of the Honourable Charles James
Fox, Esq., and before that of Mrs. Franco, the rich Jew's lady. Esquire
W--d's was to have been on the medium line, but, poor gentleman, he is
unfortunately _detained_ near London, on _emergent_ business.' To what a
degree was the dealer in stationery let down, when he was afterwards
regularly rectified; when by explanatory notes, and critical
commentations, he came to be fully informed that the individual Mr. Fox
in question was not the celebrated senator of that name, but an Irish
_Jontleman_, who condescends in winter to keep a chop house at the corner
of the playhouse passage, in Bow Street, Covent Garden; and every
autumnal season, has frequent opportunities of storming and swearing at
the ladies who may have the good fortune to belong to the Brighthelmstone
company of Comedians, he being sole manager thereof. And such
management!--_Scarrons Rancour_, who filled all the characters in a play
by himself, was a fool to him. That Mrs. Franco was, to be sure, the
temporary wife of young Mr. Franco, last season, but seems at leisure
this to be the temporary wife of even Mr. Bowen, if he pleases; and that
poor Billy, who was the _Beau_, is confined, _custodia marcellis_, _Banco
Regis_, on suspicion of debt, where he blacks shoes, cleans knives, and
turns spits, for the privilege of dipping sops in the dripping-pans of
poor prisoners."
"Mr. Thomas, the other librarian, must be noticed in turn. He hath been
years enough practising small talk with the ladies and gentlemen upon the
Steyne, and hath arrived at a surprising degree of precision in
pronouncing French-English. He is now reading the newspaper to some of
his subscribers, with an audible voice, and repeatedly calls a detached
body of troops a _corpse_; a _tour_ he improves into a _tower_; and
delivers his words in a _promiscas_ manner. It is near seven in the
evening, and the widow Fussic has just waddled into his shop, with a
parasol in her right, and a spying-glass in her left hand. Thomas offers
her a _General Advertiser_. 'Lord bless me!' says she, 'Mr. Thomas, how
damp this paper is tho' it it has come so far, and must have been printed
so long since! What reason can you give for it?'--Mr. Thomas observes,
considers and explains, in a most explicit manner, the cause and the
effect, to the inquisitive lady, naturally speaking, as a body may say;
proving to a demonstration, according to Candide, that there can be no
effect without a cause; and that of course, damp papers, closely
compressed, will continue damp a considerable time. In the interim, Miss
Fanny Fussic stares and whispers to her brother Bobby, while he is
subscribing to a raffle, that Mr. Thomas must be a most prodigious man,
monstrously intelligent, and withal, that he is amazingly communicative:
'He knows but every-thing,' says she, 'and tells but every-thing he
knows.'"
Another Library was also established on the Steine, on the premises which
had been known as Raggett's Subscription House, at the opposite corner of
St. James's Street. "In this house," writes Mr. H. R. Attree, in his
Topography of Brighton, "the dice are often rattled to some tune, and
bank-notes transferred from one hand to another, with as little ceremony
as bills of the play, or quack doctor's draughts to their patients."
This library was established by Mr. Donaldson, jun., who disposed of it
to Mr. Osborne, from whom it passed to Mr. Nathaniel Turner.
Originally, beneath the balconies in front of the two first-mentioned
libraries, were seats, with and without reclining backs, upon which, in
genial weather, subscribers were accustomed to lounge and peruse the
newspaper or the last new novel of the day. Cigars then were unknown,
and short pipes had not come into vogue, so that these retreats were not
disfigured with the notice "No smoking allowed," as the "weed" was not
indulged in, except behind a long "churchwarden" at the tavern, where
gossips nightly met to chat over the scandals of the day. Besides these
retreats beneath the balconies, there were open high-backed seats, called
Settles, much after the structure of rustic chairs in parks and pleasure
grounds, upon various parts of the promenade around the Steine. At the
bottom of the Steine, also, facing the sea, was the Alcove, a
summer-house kind of building, capable of seating something like
half-a-dozen persons. Bew, {200} in his diary, date, Thursday, August
26th, 1779, says, "This morning I edged away towards the Alcove, at the
east end of the bottom of the Steyne, wherein were seated _two_ Elders,
and perhaps, a _chaste Susanna_; at any rate, she was not naked. On my
approach they departed hastily, and I joined the deserted lady--in
discourse, by observing that the town was thin, and that I heard trade in
general was very bad. 'Very bad, indeed, Sir,' said she; 'I suppose you
are a fellow sufferer. You belong to the players, Sir, don't you?' 'My
dear,' replied I, 'why should you think so?' 'Because you are seldom
without a book in your hand.' 'Do few read besides players, then?'--'Yes,
Sir, I beg pardon; I had another reason; but you'll excuse me.' 'Indeed
I will not my dear.'--'Why then, Sir, as you advanced towards us, one of
those _elderly_ gentlemen--by their discourse I believe they are
parsons,--said to the other, 'Come, Sir, let us be gone, or we shall be
taken off; _Mr. Diarist_ is coming this way.' 'Now, Sir, if that is your
name, tho' I have never seen it yet in the play bills, was it wonderful
that I should imagine you to be one of the gentlemen players.'--I assured
her, nevertheless, that I was not entitled to that honour; and here you
may imagine our conference ended."
Another retreat for a lounge or promenade was the Colonnade under the
balcony of the library on the Marine Parade, established in 1798, by
Messrs. Donaldson and Wilkes, and afterwards carried on by Mr. Pollard,
and then by Messrs. Tuppen and Walker. This library, and the original
two on the Steine, were not merely the resort of visitors for the purpose
of literary pursuits, as their name legitimately implies, but after eight
o'clock in the evening, during the Summer season, that portion of the
business in connexion with books ceased, and holland blinds being drawn
down to cover over the whole of the books and book-shelves, a saloon was
formed that nightly attracted hundreds of _tonish_ idlers to the vocal
and instrumental music that was discoursed, and to join in the raffles,
similar to those that were going on at Raggett's subscription room.
Bew, in his Diary, date, Saturday, September 4th, 1799, writes,--"Every
article of convenience, every trinket of luxury, is transferred by this
uncertain, quick mode of conveyance. Not a shop without its
rattle-trap,--rattle, rattle, rattle, morning and evening. Here may be
seen,--walk in and see,--an abridgment of the wisdom of this world;--the
pomps and vanities are at large, varying like yonder evanescent clouds.
Observe the fond parent initiating her forward offspring in the use of
the dice-box, and herself setting the example; yet may she wonder, at
some future day, and think her throw in life's raffle extremely severe,
that a propensity to that and similar habits should continue and
increase." Fisher, in August, 1805, established a new Auction Mart in
St. James's Street, that was open morning and night. The following
extracts from a private diary will in some degree explain the rage which
was on at those periods for this and similar virulent pastimes:--
August 2nd, 1792.--But little company stirred out to-day, on account
of the intense heat of the weather. Sporting men of fashion,
dashers, and blacklegs certainly assembled on the Steine, to make
their bets for to-morrow's Lewes Races, where much excellent sport is
expected. The other part of the day was spent mostly in Raggett's
Subscription House, at Billiards, Dice, &c. _On dit._--Lady Lade is
returning from Brighton in much dudgeon,--because, forsooth, Lady
Jersey, she says, made _wulgar_ mouths at her yesterday on the
race-ground!
July 23rd, 1805.--A very select and elegant assemblage of nobility
last night paraded the Steine until a late hour. Donaldson's
library, also, was very fashionably filled; and Wilks's Pic-nic
Auction exhibited a blaze of rank and beauty.
August 23rd.--Wilks's bargains were in fashionable request last night,
and the knock-down blows of Fisher were directed with his usual
ability and effect. Fisher's New Auction Lounge was again well
filled with rank and beauty this morning. A monster of the finny
tribe has been exhibited in a marquee, pitched purposely for the
occasion, on the Steine to-day. It is called a Star _Fish_, and is
so worthy the attention of the curious that it has divided the
attention of the public with _Fisher_.
August 27th.--Wilks's Auction Lounge, last night, was immensely
crowded until a late hour: nor has the magnetical hammer of Fisher,
at his new room, been less attractive this morning.
September 21st, 1807.--Donaldson's and Pollard's libraries have had
crowded assemblages, and the game of Loo has had more than its usual
number of votaries. This evening Mr Cartwright will perform at
Fisher's Lounge, on the musical glasses, under the patronage of Mrs
Orby Hunter.
October 8th.--Pam still possesses his original attraction, and the
Belles are nightly _looed_ in his presence.--Rather a _bad_ pun that,
eh?
May 9th, 1810.--Donaldson's and Walker's spacious and airy Steine and
Marine Lounges have not been so interestingly decorated with rank and
beauty as they have to-day appeared for many preceding months, though
the amusements of one card loo, &c., are not yet there introduced.
The diversion of raffling has not been permitted at either for some
years past, nor will it again be allowed, so long as the Little-go
Bill remains unrepealed; we may therefore conclude that the rattle of
the dice will never be heard at either again.
Trinket Auctions were established when an Act of Parliament, called Mr.
Vansittart's Little-go Bill, was passed, that did away with raffling at
all places of public resort, as the profits to the librarians at the
watering places generally, arose from these diversions, rather than from
the high literary character of the books upon their shelves, or the
erudite position of the persons whose names were in their subscription
books because fashion ruled it so. The novelty of Trinket Auctions soon
wore off, and then another pastime, under the name of Loo, was
introduced. The game was very diverting in its progress, and afforded an
occasion for many agreeable sallies of wit, according to the talent of
the conductor of it and the disposition to replications of those about
him. The Loo Sweepstakes, as they were termed, were limited to eight
subscribers, and the individual stake, one shilling. The full number
being obtained, a certain quantity of cards, amongst which was a Knave of
Clubs, or Pam, were shuffled, cut, and separately dealt and turned: the
numbers were called in rotation during the process, and that against
which Pam appeared was pronounced the winner.
In September, 1810, an attempt was made to constitute the game of Loo an
illegal act. For that purpose informations were lodged against Messrs.
Donaldson and Walker, the proprietors of the Steine and Marine Libraries,
and the case was heard at Lewes, before a full Bench of Magistrates. Mr.
Courthorpe was counsel for the prosecution, and Mr. Adolphus appeared for
the defendants. The only case that was argued was that of an information
against Mr. Walker, founded on the 12th of Geo. II., c. 28, and which was
dwelt on with much force,--such indeed as a confidence of success only
could inspire--by Mr. Courthorpe. To prove that defendant had offended
within the meaning of the Act, and consequently was liable to the penalty
therein expressed, i.e., two hundred pounds, Mrs. White, the wife of one
of the informers, was called and examined. This witness hesitated
considerably in her evidence, particularly when interrogated by Mr.
Adolphus, as to her motive in becoming a subscriber to the Loo amusement
at Walker's and whether or not she had so acted with the solo aim and
purpose of lodging an information against Mr. Walker, which she at last
admitted. The substance of her evidence was "That she attended at
Walker's library on the 30th of August; that she stood next to Mr. Walker
on that occasion; that she heard him say, 'Ladies and gentlemen, three
shillings are only wanting to complete the sweepstake for this elegant
Lady's Morocco work box;' that she gave him a shilling for a chance, when
he asked her in what name she would have it, and she said Mrs. Goodlove;
that a lady at length shuffled and cut the cards; that Mr. Walker dealt
them; that the first dealt was called Mr. Bangup; that she won Pam, and
got the prize; that Mr. Walker told her she had won it, and that she was
to receive seven shillings in goods, or subscribe an extra sixpence, and
have two chances for another box of much superior value; that she took
the prize she had won, and lost two shillings in other ventures, &c."
When questioned by the Earl of Chichester, one of the magistrates, as to
the real value of the prize that had been nominated at 7s., her husband
whispered to her what to say; which being overheard by the Noble Earl,
Mr. White was compelled instantly to quit the room, and to wait without,
that he might be at hand in case he should be wanted. Mr. Adolphus (the
witness being dismissed) addressed the Bench in a most able speech,
concluding by producing an Act of Parliament passed in 1806, by which he
clearly evinced that the present informations could not be sustained, as
the said Act dispossessed magistrates of all jurisdiction and control in
matters of that sort then before them. Mr. Courthorpe laboured hard,
notwithstanding, to gain his point; but as his oratory had not the power
to supersede an Act of Parliament, his labour was in vain. As
authorities in support of the Act he produced, Mr. Adolphus was upheld by
the opinion of the Attorney-General, and a decision in the Court of
King's Bench. The Magistrates, from what had been brought forward by Mr.
Adolphus, saw their incompetency in so strong a light, that they
dismissed the business, even without hearing the reply which Mr. Adolphus
was about to make to his learned friend. There were three other
informations, all of which of course were withdrawn. The librarians
returned home in high spirits, and the Loo parties, subsequently, and
exulting in the success of the day, were more numerous than usual.
Pam, the good genius of Loo, continued to hold sway at the libraries till
1817, when the magistrates took an antipathy towards him, owing to the
unbounded patronage which he received from the ladies in general. They
considered him an unwelcome resident; so, by their mandate, supported by
an obsolete Act of Henry VIII., he was excommunicated from all the
libraries, as, at this time he had taken up his abode at Mr. T. H.
Wright's Library, then just established at the south-west corner of
Pavilion Street. Gradually, however, he resumed his position at the
establishments of Lucombe and Tuppen; but notwithstanding the presiding
influence of those two patterers and wits, assisted by Mr. Stacy, the
present librarian at the Royal Albion Rooms, and Mr. Wheeler, the box
book-keeper at the Brighton Theatre, the destruction of the fashionable
promenade, by curtailing the Steine of its fair proportions, so distorted
the throng and habit of fashion, that Pam fell into desuetude and the
libraries, unsupported by him, became failures.
Five and twenty years since, Brighton abounded with libraries, Wright's,
in the Colonnade, North Street, removed from the Pavilion Parade, and
Eber's, in Castle Square, a branch of the London establishment, being
amongst the principal of those that then existed. Furnishing food for
the mind, however, was a less profitable speculation than supplying
materials for the understandings, as Mr. Tozer on the former premises,
and Messrs. Dutton and Thorowgood on the latter, by the sale of boots and
shoes, have matured businesses that may vie with any of the same trade in
the kingdom. It is somewhat remarkable, too, that a portion of the
premises in Prince's Place, occupied by Mr. Lulham, boot and shoemaker,
and the house in the occupation of Messrs. Sharman and Co., North Street,
as a boot and shoe mart, were the library of Mr. Taylor. These facts
certainly confirm the adage,--at any rate when besieged by the multitude
with a civil view,--that "there is nothing like leather."
From time to time libraries of more or less pretensions have been
started, either by private parties or by societies of membership; but
most of them have become things of the past, which in their short lived
career possessed nothing to warrant a recital of their history.
The oldest established now in existence is Mr. Folthorp's North Street
Library, originally Choat's, and then Loader's. It is admirably
situated, and has a supply of books, periodicals, and newspapers equalled
by no other circulating library in the county. The only proprietary
literary establishments, with the exception of those attached to the
several places of public worship and their schools, are the Brighton
Royal Literary and Scientific Institution, Albion Rooms, to which a Chess
Club is attached; the Railway Library and Scientific Institution, for the
use of persons employed on the railway; and the Young Men's Christian
Association, in Middle Street. Some of the booksellers have a lending
library connected with their businesses. The principal of these are
Dollman's, Western Road, and Burrett's, Waterloo Street, Hove; Styles's,
North Street, Sugg's St. James's Street, and Grant's Library and Reading
Room, Castle Square. The literary character of which the Steine formerly
boasted is now entirely gone, and it is content to be considered the
emporium of the followers of Galen and sculapius, who as much there
abound as the students of Coke and Blackstone throng Ship Street, and
give that locality of quips, quirks, and the law's delays the appellation
of Chancery Lane.