On the other hand, six weeks tramping gives you unforgettable

impressions of reality. You have the great advantage of facing society

from the outside of its classes. You are at the bottom of the social

system and have the freedom from pride which such a position implies.

_’Tis pride that pulls the country down

Then take thy auld cloak about thee._

You do not need to put on airs, put on side, ape pompous acquaintances,

simper, trim, bowdlerize, change clothes according to time of day,

polish finger nails and balance cake, give the expected smile after

futile remark, avoid contradiction, or read up the secrets of bon ton

at night.

As you come along the road at any time of day everything about you

says, “Here I am, the tramp; take me as I am or not at all.” The Church

covers the friar so that he is immune from pride and taunt, fashion and

convention. He cannot be reproached; for his garments are a token that

he is bearing the reproach of Christ. And Nature covers the tramp in a

similar way. He has the chance to feel and be at home in any place in

the world, under any circumstances and with any people. You are never

ill-dressed in the King’s uniform; you are never ill-dressed in the

tramp’s.

Such stability is great gain, and frees the mind from care and fear

of appearances. You can with a gay heart plunge into converse with

the heir to the kingdom if he comes your way, and he will almost

infallibly say after his long revealing talk with you: “Ah, I wish I

were you!” You cause kings to envy you, but even peasants, who can

be prouder and stiffer than kings, will feel at home with you. You

must also be at home with them. You learn their accent, their special

peasant version of life, their stories, their songs. Quite by accident

you seem to get inside the real life of a nation and you belong to

it for the time. “It is always worth while talking to a clever man,”

says a character in Dostoyevsky. It is always worth while talking to a

stranger.

[Illustration]

CHAPTER TWENTY-THREE

THE ARTIST’S NOTEBOOK

_Holding but lightly to material things,

Happy to stay, yet eager to begone,

He is the poet, though he never writ

A line of metre; he is God’s free man

And has the franchise of Eternity.

Into his soul through every sense there steal

Immortal melodies. This song of praise,

This verdant life, this fragrance, the blue sky,

Those mighty mountains and the distant sea

Are symbols of the everlasting song

Swelling from age to age among the stars._

Self-expression is life, What gives more satisfaction to one’s being

than to have expressed oneself. One builds a house and expresses

himself, another writes a poem and expresses himself, another begets

a large family and expresses himself--and looking back, they can say

“_Vixi_”: “I have lived.”

Some years ago they used to sell on the streets little blue revolving

spheres for a penny; spheres with the continents and seas painted on

them. They were toys. For a penny you could give your baby the world to

play with.

That is what he needs, and what the world was made for. We were

given the world to play with, as blocks with letters on are given to

children, for play and--for expression. The whole object of the world

is to help us to say a few words about ourselves. I think it is Novalis

says: “The world--all nature--is an encyclopædical index of our own

souls.” If you would read the cypher of your soul you must use the

cypher key of Nature. If you would learn and read the language of the

heart, the world, the visible universe, shall be your dictionary.

When Richard Jeffries wrote _The Story of My Heart_ it proved to be

all birds, flowers, bees, grasses, skies and trees and airs. It was

no cinema story, no Tarzan romance. Nor was it booklore. He did not go

to the British Museum to obtain materials for the story of his heart,

did not “mug it up” with the help of great authorities. But in the

wild woods and on the Wiltshire hills he spelt it out with his fingers

letter by letter, like a blind man fingering Braille.

I sometimes think that the gold of all literature and art is

self-expression of this kind, and that after all, the best passages and

the best pictures are “_impressions de voyage_.” After we die we may be

set to write an essay on our life story. It will be “_impressions de

voyage_.” Fifty years in an office will be found shriveled up to a dot,

and a few days in the wilds will expand into the whole essay.

Why do we stare at beautiful things? We see them--is that not enough,

can we not merely glance and pass on? We stop and we stare, at that

mountain side, at that flower, at that dreaming lake. We cannot pass

at once. We seem to be looking intently, stargazing at something

further off and yet more kindred than the stars, but we are not using

our physical eyes. Perhaps we are not using our eyes at all. We are

listening. Nature is trying to tell us something; she is speaking to us

on a long-distance wave.

Your mind is haunted. You have forgotten something, and the flower is

trying to tell you. It is reminding you of a forgotten air. Something

you cannot quite hear, cannot quite make out. Once you belonged to a

kingdom where ... once you knew some one young and fair ... once you

were lost, still lost, always lost.... But you could join us yet, did

you dare ... what is the flower trying to say? What does the mountain

say, and the lone bird on the branch? The heart aches. You lie on the

downs; heaven is alive with birds. The bosom of the sky heaves with

their song. And you, down below on the cropped grass of the hills,

lying on the chalk, shading the eyes with a hand, look up--and the

heart aches. It aches with homesickness, with love for that some one of

whom the flowers speak and the lark sings.

You are camped by the side of a stream, and a boatman goes past in his

boat in the dusk; you are dreaming by your fire in the morning, and

a wild bird comes unbidden to your wrist; you are yourself mirrored

in the water below a rock just before you are about to plunge; you

watch an eagle bridge a chasm with its flight; you see cliffs shaped

like giants and trees like dwarfs. The snake serpentines through the

dust across your path, drawing a line--thus far and no further--which,

however, you overstep. You find yourself treading in primeval forest,

where no step of man has ever been heard before. The trees change into

great armies marching upward in platoons, in serried battalions. You

come to great walls--termini. You overclimb them: death, new life. You

are out of touch with below. It is the great plateau: you can yearn

upward with your hands, you cannot yearn downward to those you have

left below. Lark’s song comes up to you from other people’s heaven.

You are in upper mountain country among glaciers and scarred rocks,

amid frogs, amid storms. You dance in the air with the snowflakes. The

soul plumbs the depth of the world with a sad thought dropped from the

height. Listen--the little avalanches--a crack, a rumble, a thudding, a

whispering. You reach and stand astride the pass between two countries.

God divided up the world, and you are a pair of compasses in His hand.

The first tramp left Eden many years ago. They say he died. But to my

mind he is still wandering. God made him wander. He has wandered so

far his wits are wandering too. He doesn’t remember much about the

garden now. It was a pleasant place. It had a snake in it, however.

Very pleasant: a place in which one could lie down and rest for an

eternity at a time, if it were not for the snakes in the grass. The

devil got loose in it. Still, it was the only place in which one could

feel at home for ever and ever. And outside of it one must wander. Life

is a wandering and a seeking where it was once a sitting still and an

adoring.

So the tramp’s life is a type of existence. I like the symbolism of

the Jewish Passover, the standing dressed for departure into the

wilderness. Man is not man sitting down; he is man on the move. _Le

tramp c’est l’homme._

Even if in small measure the tramp is a pilgrim. His adventure is a

spiritual adventure or it is nothing. The clouds part and Orion is

disclosed. The rude pencilings are erased and the main curve remains,

and the curve of your adventure is a broken arc. “On earth the broken

arc; in heaven the perfect round,” says Browning. But given the arc

the center can be found. We revolve about the sun, but there are

planets revolving around a sun invisible to us. Our souls, I suppose,

revolve about some invisible spiritual sun which we are always thinking

about--a center called God.

So with all our hilarity, our joyous meetings, our madcap doings,

with all the fun of the tramping expedition there is the deeper

interest underlying all. Most people will make the tramp without one

conscious deeper thought. It does not matter. Their nature is getting

something intuitively, although the mind has no knowledge of it. The

gay undergraduate, all vim and no soul, shies at religion and has no

thought except about climbs, leaps, jumps, food, sporting chances,

pedestrian achievement! He may not see this glorious jaunt in a poetic

light until years afterwards. Cunninghame Graham remarks in one of his

clever prefaces that nothing in the present ever seems so good as what

is past. Some years pass, and your present, which is silver to-day,

becomes gold in recollection. You lie in a matter-of-fact mood under

the stars in the midst of the mountains. Your mind is at rest, you ask

for nothing beyond perhaps good sleep, and belike you thank neither God

nor yourself for having got there. But ten years later you look back

with a sigh and say “How wonderful it was, ah, I was happy then!”

The intuitive understanding rises slowly to the mind, like light

traveling from a distant planet to this earth. But you get it at last

and see.

So the experience is kindred for all manner of minds. The poet may

exult too feverishly at first, and grow tired of his own rhapsodies;

the reflective intellectual may become bored by his own meditations.

But neither the poetic rhapsodies nor the intellectual notes record

the measure of the tramp. For it is a measure of hidden honey that is

being stored, and you are seldom allowed by Nature to eat of your own

store day by day. We are bees rather than wasps.

The true beehive of inner experience is in you, and yet, of course,

there are what may be called auxiliary beehives. I believe the

conscious experience of a tramp can be greatly increased in a

pleasurable way by the use of notebooks. It is worth while keeping

a record if only to remind yourself in other years. The details of

your spiritual adventures fade out unless you have a good memory or

an _aide-mémoire_. The whole work of some writers is no more than a

tramp’s notebook, Blake, for instance, a series of marvelously scrawled

hieroglyphics--the story of his journey from one world to another. But

one does not need to be a “writer” as it is called, or an “artist.” It

is a spurious classification. We are all writers and artists from the

day when we scrawl with our toy spades in the wet sand to the day when

we put the seal of death to our wills. Man as such is an artist. Being

public, being printed, being exhibited, are matters connected with the

minor function of being professionally artistic. Giotto drew a perfect

circle to show what he could do. We shall draw imperfect ones and be

more true to Art.

The fact is he has lost a great deal who has not kept a daybook of the

soul. Something very sweet happened to Leigh Hunt one day and he wrote.

_Time you thief who love to get

Sweets into your list, put that in._

It was entered in his daybook. Certain happenings make a day worth

while and perhaps forever memorable to you. “To-day I knew that I had

conquered all my doubtings,” wrote Carlyle once in his diary, recording

his transit from scepticism to positive belief. It was an entry in his

daybook.

As a practical detail, I love page-a-day diaries, the new sort used

mostly in America and France. It is a nicely bound thin-paper book with

a whole page for each day in the year and no postal information or cash

columns. Unfortunately in England such books are generally bound to

look like Bibles and have appropriate Scripture references at the head

of each page. One is reminded of the Lessons and the Collects. That

is very well, but we require a minimum of printed matter on our daily

page. It is ours, like our life when we wake up in the morning, free

and open, and we may write there only what is given to us personally to

write. Such a notebook should be free from conventions. If we wish to

draw sketches in it mixed with written notes, we will. If we need to

overstep the limits of a page we will find a less-covered page among

our yesterdays and let to-day spill over to fill out the measure of

time past. If you have had a tramping expedition in the midst of an

otherwise sedentary year how the empty pages will fill up from the more

glorious days!

The artist’s notebook is free for sketches, notes, impressions of

moments, _bon mots_, poems, things overheard, maps and plans, names

of friends and records of their idiosyncrasies, paradoxes, musical

notations, records of folksongs and other songs which you copy in order

that you may sing for years afterwards. But it should not contain

too much banal detail, such as petty accounts, addresses, druggists’

prescriptions, number of season ticket and fire-insurance policy, memos

to send rent. These things are apt to clutter up your book, and when

you come to Old Year’s Night, and sit waiting for the chime of bells

which rings in another year--and you have your daybook before you, and

you go over its pages, you do not want to pause on a scrawled laundry

list or some Falstaffian account of wine and bread consumed at such and

such an inn.

The artist’s daybook is his own living gospel--something coming after

Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John--and should be sacred to him, if he is

not merely a flippant and cynical fellow seeing life in large part as a

buffonade.

A thought recorded, one that is your own, written down the day when

it occurred, is a mental snapshot, and is at least as valuable as the

photographs you may take on your journey. Yesterday’s thought is worth

considering again, if only as the stepping stone of your dead self.

The thoughts of some people are constant, but of others varying and

contradictory. It is like landscape. Some live their lives in the sight

of a great range of mountains--they live in the presence of certain

ever-abiding thoughts; others change their mental scenery from day to

day, in the shallows and flats of the low country. But we all have our

epochal days, our epochal thoughts. We turn to a page in our notebook

and say: “On this day the thought occurred to me in the light of which

I have lived ever since.” You draw two candles there, with light rays,

to show the thought of the year.

It is much the same if the expression of the thought has been given you

by another. Your thought of the year may take the form of a quotation.

Those who search while they read naturally find in the expression of

others what their souls need. I remember long periods of living with

certain thoughts derived from books--Browning’s:

_He placed thee midst this dance

Of plastic circumstance

This present thou forsooth would’st fain arrest._

and then at another time Richter’s:

“_We are near awakening when we dream that we dream._”

Persistent thoughts on a path of life’s pilgrimage! Morning after

morning one awakens and the thought awakens with one and goes through

the day in company, in communion with one.

Each day Nature puts her magic mirror in our hands. “Oh child, do you

see yourself to-day?”

We look, we look, and answer wistfully, “Not to-day, not to-day.”

Is it that the reflection is dim and vague, or that our eyes have not

yet cleared? Shortsighted people see curious distortions of themselves

in the glass.

But it may even be true that no one has yet seen his own face. You can

never be sure that what you see in a glass is what other people see

in your face. So also in the spiritual mirror of Nature, one seeks

to identify oneself and yet never is satisfied. Cheek and nose are

wandering with the ripples of the lake. Every pool in the marsh has

its star reflections, and as you bend o’er one of them your visage is

broken by the starlight.

On the desolate North Cape, amid ice floes and leaping seals, with the

bleak homeless winds of the Arctic about your ears, you are as near

to your own image as in the warmth of Gibraltar’s opening gates. In

the center of the Great Pyramid your heart turns to dust, but coming

forth it vivifies again and is young as the year of your age. Pharaoh’s

uncovered face is a faded hieroglyphic, but still it asks thousands of

years after death--who am I; whither do I go?

So life’s scroll is full of question marks, pointers, index fingers,

records of bearings, soundings, answers and partial answers to the

question: Where am I? Drake climbs a goodlie and high tree in Darien

and descries afar the Southern Sea. It is a picture in his artist’s

notebook. Such an artistic thing to do, and life made him do it! It was

no pose, his going forth to singe the King of Spain’s beard. It was

more of a pose, I think, when he refused to allow his game of bowls to

be interrupted by the approach of the Armada.

Pose is, unfortunately, a prevalent disease of the quest. Some natures

are betrayed to striking attitudes on the top of molehills. To-day I

conquered the Mendips; henceforth there are no Mendips. But good hard,

earnest living--tramping and seeking, will cure most people of the

false theatrical. Beware of going to Jerusalem in order that you may

come back and tell the world you have been. It spoils all you found

on the way. I do not like the palmers; those who have been and have

come back. Admitted that it is a vice of ourselves, we professional

_littéraires_, we go and then partially spill over when we return,

selling the wine of experience for so much. When it is genuine

experience you well may:

_Wonder what the vintners buy

One half so precious as the goods they sell._

But, of course, one can tell one’s story and yet escape pose. “Make

thyself small,” saith Buddha. Make thyself unobtrusive, lest some one

may think that a very ornate and luxurious loud speaker is responsible

for the music itself. In an old-fashioned phrase so difficult to

stomach nowadays--“Give God the glory.”

The personal diary, however, that daybook of the soul, is not meant for

other gaze. I should imagine oneself shy even of the eyes of one’s most

intimate friend, wife, sweetheart, _alter ego_. There is a delicacy, a

secrecy about the functions of mind and soul. You do not wish others to

see what you have written and blush at the thought of half a line being

read over your shoulder. And the better the diary is kept the more

private and personal it becomes.

I do not consider Pepys’ Diary to be the type of a good daybook, though

it is extremely valuable as a record of the life of the age in which

Pepys lived. It is one of the great curiosities of literature. As after

a lifelong imprisonment one might find the diary of a prisoner, written

to kill time, so after Pepys’ life one finds this astonishing document,

wherein as it were, _all_ is written down. But that all of Pepys’ Diary

is not all. It is all that is immaterial. There is much that escaped

Pepys because he was not on the lookout for it. The chief omissions

are the answers or attempted answers to the questions: “Who was Pepys?

Whom did Pepys think he was?” The answers to these questions covering

the whole of Pepys’ life could well occupy as much space as the famous

diary we have.

But Pepys, perhaps without intention, described his England very well.

He set down so much detail that he provided something resembling cinema

films of daily life. As you read his pages you drop away from your own

century and walk in his. His work is not a selection of phenomena; you

make your selection from it. You can, in fact, make a diary from his

diary. His many pages become one page, or half a page, in your diary.

There was in Russia, up to the Revolution, in which he perished a

Pepysian writer, more selective, it is true, but determined to write

down _all_, everything that occurred to him from day to day through

life. He became naturally voluminous, and put down all manner of

things, discreet and indiscreet, some very shocking to decent minds.

But in one of his later volumes of fragments and thoughts he wrote,

“It may be asked what possible interest is there is these things I am

recording, but that is my affair. For a long while now I have been

writing without reader. If some one reads, that is his lookout; I do

not invite him. One resolution I have made, and will carry out, and

that is to print _all_.” So many of his daybook entries have curious

tags after them, such as “Written on my cuff at Mme. So-and-So’s

reception”; “Written while waiting for the tram on Nevski.”

It is fair to him to say that he only recorded thoughts and

observations. If he was making love to a Captain’s wife at any time

he did not tell of it--but only gave current reflections on love and

what women really are. His whole literary output makes one spiritual

notebook.

Few people however have much persistence. The January mood is familiar;

this year I will keep a diary. The February pages of most diaries

look pale and consumptive. March may pass without a single entry, as

if throughout that glorious month nothing of moment had passed before

one’s eyes or occurred to one’s being. That is not, however, such a

default as may appear. One drops the diary; one resumes it. To-day

I take stock of life and thought and all good things that are mine;

to-morrow I will swing all day on the garden gate singing a nursery

rhyme; the day after I shall put on my silk hat and go to the city and

a company meeting; I shall promenade at night. Something will occur

sooner or later and I shall say, “Hah, my diary, my tablets, my ink

fountain, that I may write down something special and wonderful and

curious that has occurred to me this day.”

Some are so fortunate that their professional and intellectual life

blend--the writer, the artist, the social worker, the barrister,

sometimes the lawyer, the politician, often the doctor. Matters of

deep interest professionally have also a personal spiritual interest.

But whatever the profession or calling all interests become one on an

occasion of travel, on a tramping expedition or visit to a strange

country. Then the daybook rests in the inner pocket, the ready helpmeet

of one’s thoughts.

In visiting foreign countries and studying other peoples, I always

look out for what may be called key phenomena. I like to be able to

record a fact which means so much more than its bare utterance seems

to imply. Such a fact, bursting with brilliant significance is like

a luminary on the page. It may be light on your way for the whole of

the year. A nation reveals its secret in a sentence. Or it may be,

an animal tells its nature by one trait observed. There is a curious

satisfaction of the soul in knowing about the ways of men and of beasts.

Of course, I do not mean that there is any particular satisfaction in

recording trivialities and prejudices. A man once wrote in his diary,

“The Frenchmen eat frogs: I do not like them.” It was not worth his

writing down. But one day, tramping with a hungry American, I was

astonished to hear him exclaim, “I wish I could see a frog; I would

soon have him in the pot.” That rid me of a prejudice, and I sat down

complacently afterwards to a dish of frogs’ legs. It was worth a line

in the diary.

A pilgrim once said to me: “I do not know you; to know a man one

must eat forty pounds of salt.” It was worth a line in my diary.

“_Nitchevo_,” said a Russian peasant servant to Bismarck, when out

hunting they were lost in the snow in the forest. “_Nitchevo_,” and

it lasted Bismarck all his life. He never forgot _Nitchevo_ and

was always fond of saying it. “He is a gentleman; he keeps a gig,”

Carlyle overheard, and it became one of the brevities of his spiritual

life--“gigmanity.” “I am a workingman; I have carried my dinner pail,”

some one else said, defining himself and a workingman at the same time.

Such definitions and explanations, pointers, and street lamps, are

worth keeping.

The gentle art of tramping · 第 8 / 10 段