SWARMS OF COCKATOOS--ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR FURTHER REDUCED--NATIVE
FAMILY--THE MACKENZIE--COAL--NATIVES SPEAKING A DIFFERENT IDIOM--MOUNT
STEWART--BROWN AND MYSELF MISS THE WAY BACK TO THE CAMP--FIND OUR PARTY
AGAIN, ON THE FOURTH DAY--NEUMAN'S CREEK--ROPER'S PEAK--CALVERT'S
PEAK--GILBERT'S DOME--GREAT WANT OF WATER.
Jan. 1, 1845.--After a ride of about four miles down the creek, we came
to a deep hole of good water, that had been filled by the late
thunder-storms, the traces of which, however, had disappeared every where
else. I found a red Passion flower, with three-lobed leaves, the lobes
rounded: it was twining round the trunk of a gum tree, and rooted in a
light sandy alluvial soil. A new species of Bauhinia, with large white
blossoms, growing in small groves, or scattered in the scrub,
particularly near the creeks, was conspicuous for its elegance, and was
the greatest ornament of this part of the country. It is a tree about
twenty-five feet high, with long drooping branches; the foliage is of a
rich green colour, and affords a fine shade. A climbing Capparis, with
broad lanceolate leaves, had also large white showy blossoms; and a fine
specimen of this plant was seen growing in the fork of an old box tree,
about twelve or fifteen feet from the ground; it was in fruit, but
unfortunately was not yet ripe. There was also another species of the
same genus, with yellow blossoms, in other respects very similar in
appearance to the first. The white cedar was still abundant. When I
returned to the camp, I found my companions busily engaged in straining
the mud, which had remained in the water-hole after our horses and cattle
had drunk and rolled in it. Messrs. Gilbert and Calvert had discovered a
few quarts of water in the hollow stump of a tree; and Mr. Roper and
Charley had driven the horses and cattle to another water-hole, about two
miles off. Our latitude was 24 degrees 16 minutes 9 seconds.
Jan. 2.--I moved my camp to the water-hole, near which I had met with the
natives, and halted at the outside of a Bauhinia grove. On visiting the
spot where the blacks were encamped, it appeared that they had returned
and carried away all their things, probably well contented that we had
not taken more than the turkey's egg. The mosquitoes were a little
troublesome after sunset and in the early part of the night; but, after
that time, it was too cold for them. The flies were a much greater
nuisance; at times absolutely intolerable, from the pertinacity with
which they clung to the corners of our eyes, to the lips, to the ears,
and even to the sores on our fingers. The wind was generally from the
eastward during the morning, with cumuli; but these disappeared in the
afternoon.
Brown found a crab, (a species of Gecarcinus?) the carapace about an inch
and a quarter long, and one and a half broad, the left claws much larger
than the right, the antepenultimate joint having a strong tooth on the
upper side; it is found in moist places and in the lagoons, and, when
these are dried up, it retires under logs and large stones.
Mr. Gilbert saw a large grey wallabi, and a small one which he thought
was new. Another species of Agama was found, differing from the former by
its general grey colour, with black spots on the back.
Jan. 3.--The night was clear; a fine easterly wind prevailed during the
morning, with cumuli, which disappeared towards noon, when the sky became
cloudless. Thunder-storms generally follow a very sultry calm morning. We
travelled about ten miles in a N.N.E. direction, and came to the farthest
water-hole I had seen when out reconnoitring. We passed in our journey
through a very scrubby country, opening occasionally into fine flats
thinly timbered with true box, which was at that time in blossom. I
noticed a small tree (Santalum oblongatum, R. Br.), very remarkable for
having its branches sometimes slightly drooping, and at other times
erect, with membranous glaucous elliptical leaves, from an inch to an
inch and a half long, and three-quarters broad, with very indistinct
nerves, and producing a small purple fruit, of very agreeable taste. I
had seen this tree formerly at the Gwyder, and in the rosewood scrubs
about Moreton Bay, and I also found it far up to the northward, in the
moderately open Vitex and Bricklow scrubs.
Several small lizards (Tiliqua), probably only varieties of the same
species, amused us with the quickness of their motions when hunting for
insects on the sunny slopes near the water-holes, and on the bark of the
fallen trees; some were striped, others spotted, and there were some of a
simple brownish iridescent colour. Our latitude was 24 degrees 6 minutes
36 seconds.
Jan. 4.--Brown accompanied me on my usual errand, to find, if possible, a
larger supply of water, on which we might fall back, if the creek did not
soon change its character. The scrub came close to the banks of the
creek, but was occasionally interrupted by basaltic ridges with open
forest, stretching to the westward. These ridges were on all sides
surrounded with scrub, which did not flourish where the basaltic
formation prevailed. Broad but shallow channels, deepening from time to
time into large water-holes, follow in a parallel direction the many
windings of the creek, with which they have occasionally a small
communication. They seem to be the receptacles of the water falling
within the scrub during the rainy season: their banks are sometimes very
high and broken, and the bed is of a stiff clay, like that of the scrub,
and is scattered over with pebbles of quartz and conglomerate. Whilst
these Melaleuca channels keep at a distance varying from one to three
miles from the creek, winding between the slight elevations of a
generally flat country--long shallow hollows and a series of lagoons
exist near the creek, from which they are separated by a berg, and are
bounded on the other side by a slight rise of the ground. The hollows are
generally without trees, but are covered with a stiff stargrass; and they
frequently spread out into melon flats, covered with true Box. It is
difficult to travel along the creek, especially with pack bullocks, as
the scrub frequently comes close up to its banks; but the hollows, during
the dry season, are like roads. In the channels within the scrub I found
a large supply of water, in holes surrounded by sedges and a broad-leaved
Polygonum, amongst which grew a species of Abutilon; the neighbouring dry
channel was one beautiful carpet of verdure. In the scrub I found a plant
belonging to the Amaryllideae (Calostemma luteum?) with a cluster of fine
yellow blossoms. Flights of ducks were on the water, and scores of little
birds were fluttering through the grasses and sedges, or hopping over the
moist mud in pursuit of worms and insects. The water-holes were about six
miles from our camp. I continued my ride about four miles farther along
the creek, where I found the scrub had retired, and was replaced by an
open silver-leaved Ironbark forest, in which the rich green feed relieved
our eyes from the monotonous grey of the scrub, and quickened the steps
of our horses. Here also basaltic ridges approached the creek, and even
entered into its bed; among them were several fine water-holes. In our
return to the camp we found abundance of water in the lagoons near the
river, corresponding to the water-holes within the scrub. This local
occurrence of water depends either upon thunder-storms favouring some
tracts more than others, or upon the country here being rather more
hilly, which allows the rainwater to collect in deep holes at the foot of
the slopes.
Jan. 5.--We moved down to the water-holes of the basaltic ridges, being
about nine miles in a N.N.W. direction from our last camp.
At three o'clock a.m. clouds formed very rapidly over the whole
sky--which had been clear during the previous part of the night--and
threatened us with wet. In the morning some few drops fell, with slight
casterly winds; it cleared up, however, about nine o'clock a.m. with a
northerly breeze.
Marsilea grows everywhere on the flats; and a fine little pea plant with
a solitary red blossom, was found amongst the basaltic rocks round the
water-hole. We observed, growing along the creek, another species of
Portulaca, with linear fleshy leaves, erect stem, and small yellow
flowers; and a half-shrubby Malvaccous plant, with small clustered yellow
blossoms: the latter is common at the outside of scrubs in the Moreton
Bay district. We also remarked, within the scrub, a small tree, with
bright-green foliage, and three-winged capsules slightly united at the
base; and another small tree, with deep-green coloured leaves, and
two-winged capsules united in all their length; the last is nearly allied
to Dodonaea.
I never before saw nor heard so many cockatoos as I did at Comet Creek.
Swarms of them preceded us for one or two miles, from tree to tree,
making the air ring with their incessant screams, and then returning in
long flights to their favourite haunts, from which we had disturbed them.
We saw four kangaroos; and shot some bronze-winged pigeons; in the crop
of one I found a small Helix with a long spire,--a form I do not remember
ever having seen before in the colony. A considerable number of small
brown snakes were living in the water-hole; they were generally seen in
the shallow water with their heads above the surface, but, at our
approach, dived into the deepest part of the hole. Our daily allowance of
flour was now reduced to three pounds. Our provisions disappear rapidly,
and the wear and tear of our clothes and harness is very great; but, as
our wants increase, our desires become more easily satisfied. The green
hide furnishes ample means to preserve our shoes, by covering them with
mocassins, and with materials for repairing the harness. The latitude of
this camp was 23 degrees 59 minutes 6 seconds.
Jan. 6.--Leaving my companions at the camp well provided with both grass
and water, I followed the creek, with Brown, in expectation of a long
ride, as Messrs. Gilbert and Roper had been forward about nine miles in
search of water, but without finding any. We very soon left the open
country, and entered the vilest scrub we had ever before encountered. The
parallel lines of lagoons disappeared, and the banks of the creek became
very broken by gullies, so that the stiff soil of the neighbouring scrub,
not being intercepted by lagoons, is washed by heavy rains into the bed
of the creek, which was no longer sandy, but inclined to the formation of
water-holes, the clay rendering it impervious to water. The Casuarina,
which likes a light sandy soil, disappeared at the same time, and was
succeeded by the narrow-leaved Melaleuca. The flooded-gum, however, kept
its place, and frequently attained to a great size. About twelve miles
from the camp, a small water-hole appeared in the bed of the creek. This
was the first we had met with while travelling along its banks a distance
of seventy miles; but, in proceeding about four miles farther, we passed
a succession of fine water-holes well supplied with water; and others
were found in the adjoining creeks. Afterwards, however, the water
suddenly disappeared again; and for eight miles farther its bed was
entirely dry, although fine grass was growing in it. We had every
prospect of passing the night without water, as the sun was sinking fast;
but we fortunately reached a small hole before dark, containing a little
water, which we had to share with our horses, with a small brown snake,
and with a large flight of bronze-winged pigeons; the latter, surprised
at our presence, first alighted on the neighbouring trees to observe us,
and then hurried down to take their evening draught.
Jan. 7.--I travelled farther down the river, and again came, after a ride
of three miles, into a well-watered country, but still occupied by scrub;
in which the Capparis, with its large white sweet-scented blossoms, was
very frequent; but its sepals, petals, and stamens dropped off at the
slightest touch. Its fruit was like a small apple covered with warts, and
its pungent seeds were imbedded in a yellow pulp, not at all disagreeable
to eat. At last the scrub ceased, and, over an open rise on the right
side of Comet Creek, a range of blue mountains was discovered by my
companion, promising a continuation of good country. At this time a fine
water-hole was at hand, and invited us to stop and make our luncheon on
dried beef and a pot of tea. Whilst I was preparing the tea, Brown went
to shoot pigeons; and, whilst thus employed, he was surprised by the
cooee of a Blackfellow; and, on looking round, he saw one on the opposite
bank of the creek making signs to him, as if to ask in what direction we
were going. Brown pointed down the creek; the black then gave him to
understand that he was going upward to join his wife. We started about
half-an-hour afterwards, and met with him, about two miles up the creek,
with his wife, his daughter, and his son. He was a fine old man, but he,
as well as his family, were excessively frightened; they left all their
things at the fire, as if offering them to us, but readily accepted two
pigeons, which had been shot by Brown. We asked them for water (yarrai)
which, according to what we could understand from their signs, was
plentiful lower down the creek. In returning homewards we cut off
considerable angles of the creek, and passed through a much finer and
more open country. On its left bank we passed a scrub creek containing
magnificent lagoons. At my arrival in the camp, I was informed that
natives had been close at hand, although none had showed themselves.
Jan. 8.--I moved my camp about eight miles to the northward, and halted
at a fine water-hole in a scrub creek joining Comet Creek. A pretty
little diver was amusing himself on the water. The country is very rich
in game. Kangaroos and wallabies are very frequent; several brush turkeys
were seen, and the partridge and bronze-winged pigeons are very
plentiful. Our latitude was 23 degrees 51 minutes.
Jan. 9.--In travelling down to the water-hole, where we had met the
Blackfellow and his family, we kept a little too much to the westward, in
hope of finding a more open country; instead, however, of an improvement,
we encountered sandy hills covered with a dense low scrub and
cypress-pine. The latter almost invariably grows on the slight sandstone
elevations in a scrubby country. After surmounting many difficulties, we
came upon a broad scrub creek, in the dry bed of which we travelled down
to Comet Creek, which we followed, and at last reached our intended
camping place. Our cattle and luggage had suffered severely, and we
devoted the next day to sundry repairs. The weather was very hot: the
night clear. Our latitude was 23 degrees 41 minutes 14 seconds.
Jan. 10.--To prevent unnecessary loss of time by my reconnoitring
excursions, and to render them less fatiguing to myself, I arranged that
both the blacks should go with me, in order that I might send one back
from the first favourable camping place, to bring the party on, whilst I
continued to explore the country with the other. Under this arrangement,
therefore, I went forward, and, following the creek, it was found to
sweep to the eastward, round a high plain of rich black soil, and covered
with luxuriant vegetation. This plain is basaltic, but, in the valley of
the creek, sandstone crops out below it. The slopes from the plain to the
creek are steep, and torn by deep gullies, which made travelling very
fatiguing. As the creek again turned to the west and north-west, the
water-holes increased both in size and number, although the flats within
the valley were limited and intersected by watercourses. I sent Charley
back when we were about seven miles N.W. by N. from our camp, and
proceeded with Brown down the creek, which, at about four miles farther,
to my inexpressible delight, joined a river coming from the west and
north-west, and flowing to the east and north-east. It was not, however,
running, but formed a chain of small lakes, from two to three and even
eight miles in length, and frequently from fifty to one hundred yards
broad, offering to our view the finest succession of large sheets of
water we had seen since leaving the Brisbane. Its course continued
through a very deep and winding valley, bounded by high but generally
level land. The gullies going down to the river were generally covered
with a belt of thick scrub, as was also the high land nearest to it; but,
farther off, the country appeared to be more open, plains alternating
with open forest land, but yet, in places, much occupied by tracts of
almost impervious scrub of various extent. We met frequent traces of the
natives, who had recently gone down the river, having previously burned
the grass, leaving very little for our horses and cattle. At 8 o'clock
P.M. a fine strong northerly breeze came up the river, flowing along its
broad open valley, and which I supposed to be the sea breeze. This
supposition was somewhat confirmed by a similar breeze occurring at the
same time on the following evening.
The plains are basaltic, and occasionally covered with pebbles of white
and iron-coloured quartz and conglomerate, and are in the vicinity of
slight elevations, which are probably composed of sandstone and
conglomerate, and usually covered with low scrub and cypress-pine.
Sandstone crops out in the gullies of the valley, in horizontal strata,
some of which are hard and good for building, others like the blue clay
beds of Newcastle, with the impressions of fern-leaves identical with
those of that formation. At the junction of Comet Creek and the river, I
found water-worn fragments of good coal, and large trunks of trees
changed into ironstone. I called this river the "Mackenzie," in honour of
Sir Evan Mackenzie, Bart., as a small acknowledgment of my gratitude for
the very great assistance which he rendered me in the preparations for my
expedition. Farther down the river, the country became better watered,
even at a distance from the river; some small creeks, winding down
between scrubby sandstone hills, were full of water, and a chain of fine
lagoons was crossed, covered with splendid blue Nymphaeas. Large coveys
of partridge-pigeons rose from the burnt grass as we passed along, and
ducks and pelicans were numerous on the stretches of water in the bed of
the river. Heaps of fresh-water muscles lined the water-holes, which were
teeming with fish, apparently of considerable size, as their splashing
startled me several times during the night, and made me believe, for the
moment, that a large tribe of natives were bathing.
A very stiff high grass became very general along the river. On the
plains there were fields of native carrots, now dry; also of vervain and
burr. The long-podded cassia was plentiful, and its young seeds tasted
well, but considerably affected the bowels.
Cumuli passed from the north-east during the morning: the afternoon was
clear, and the night bright.
When I returned to the camp on the 11th January, my companions told me,
that upon their journey across the high plains they had observed a high
range to the north-west.
Jan. 12.--I removed my camp down Comet Creek, and followed the Mackenzie
for a few miles, as far as it was easy travelling along its bank. Comet
Creek joins the Mackenzie in a very acute angle; the direction of the
latter being east, and the course of the former, in its lower part,
north-west. Our anglers caught several fine fishes and an eel, in the
water-holes of the Mackenzie. The former belonged to the Siluridae, and
had four fleshy appendages on the lower lip, and two on the upper; dorsal
fin 1 spine 6 rays, and an adipose fin, pectoral 1 spine 8 rays; ventral
6 rays; anal 17 rays; caudal 17-18 rays; velvety teeth in the upper and
lower jaws, and in the palatal bones. Head flat, belly broad; back of a
greenish silver-colour; belly silvery white; length of the body 15-20
inches. It made a singular noise when taken out of the water.
We found here Unios of a fine pink and purple colour inside the valves,
and a new species of Cyclas with longitudinal ribs. Small black ants, and
little flies with wings crossing each other, annoy us very much, the one
creeping all over our bodies and biting us severely, and the other
falling into our soup and tea, and covering our meat; but the strong
night-breeze protects us from the mosquitoes. A pretty lizard (Tiliqua)
of small size, with yellowish spots on a brown ground, was caught, and
seemed to be plentiful here about. The Acacia, with very long linear
drooping leaves, that had been observed at the Dawson, re-appeared both
on Comet Creek and the banks of the Mackenzie. Our latitude was 23
degrees 33 minutes 38 seconds.
Jan. 13.--We travelled about nine miles E.N.E. over the high land, and
through open forest land, and several plains skirted on both sides by
scrub. I observed a new species of Flindersia, a small tree about thirty
feet high, with thin foliage and very regular branches, forming a spire.
The latitude was 23 degrees 29 minutes.
Jan. 14.--After travelling about three miles in a north-easterly
direction along the banks of the river--having, at about a mile from our
camp, crossed a good-sized creek on its left bank--the river took a
sudden bend to the westward, and a large creek coming from the northward,
joined it almost at a right angle to its course. As we proceeded, we came
suddenly upon two black women hurrying out of the water, but who, on
reaching a distance in which they thought themselves safe, remained
gazing at us as we slowly and peaceably passed by. In the bed of the
river, which was here broad and sandy, a bean was gathered, bearing
racemes of pink blossoms, and spreading its long slender stem over the
ground, or twining it round shrubs and trees: its pods were from three to
five inches long, and about half an inch broad, containing from four to
six seeds, very similar to the horse-bean. This plant was afterwards
found growing in the sandy beds, or along the bergs of almost all the
broad rivers, and was always a welcome sight; for the seeds, after
roasting and pounding them, afforded us a very agreeable substitute for
coffee.
We passed some very high cliffs, which showed a fine geological section
of horizontal layers of sandstone and coal-slate. There were also some
layers of very good coal, but the greater part of those visible were of a
slaty character. Nodules of Ironstone were very frequent in the
sandstone.
After having fixed upon a place to pitch the tent, and after some
refreshment, I started with my two black companions upon a reconnoitring
excursion along the course of the river, which made several large bends,
though its general direction was to the north-east. We passed over some
very fine flats of Bastard-box, silver-leaved Ironbark, and white gum,
with a few scattered Acacia-trees, remarkable for their drooping foliage,
and mentioned under the date 22nd December. Farther on, we came again to
scrub, which uniformly covered the edge of the high land towards the
river. Here, within the scrub, on the side towards the open country we
found many deserted camps of the natives, which, from their position,
seemed to have been used for shelter from the weather, or as
hiding-places from enemies: several places had evidently been used for
corroborris, and also for fighting.
On a White-gum, which has long lanceolate green leaves, I found a species
of Loranthus, with leaves resembling those of the silver-leaved Ironbark
(Eucalyptus pulverulentus). Having reached a point down the river, in
about lat. 23 degrees 18 minutes, from which some low ranges to the N.W.
became visible, I returned to the camp. At the point where it turned, a
dyke of basalt traverses the river. The country still maintained its
favourable character, and the river contained fine sheets of water
similar to those already described, on one of which a pelican floated
undisturbed by our presence. Large heaps of muscle-shells, which have
given food to successive generations of the natives, cover the steep
sloping banks of the river, and indicate that this part of the country is
very populous. The tracks of the natives were well beaten, and the
fire-places in their camps numerous. The whole country had been on fire;
smouldering logs, scattered in every direction, were often rekindled by
the usual night breeze, and made us think that the Blackfellows were
collecting in numbers around us,--and more particularly on the opposite
side of the river; added to which, the incessant splashing of numerous
large fishes greatly contributed to augment our fears. As a matter of
precaution, therefore, we tied our horses near our sleeping-place, and
gathered the grass which grew along the edge of the water for them to
eat; and it was not till daylight that our alarm vanished.
Jan. 15.--Having now ascertained, beyond a doubt, that the Mackenzie
flowed to the north-east, I returned to the camp, resolved upon leaving
it and renewing my course to the west-north-west and north-west; but, as
it was extremely doubtful whether we should find water in travelling
across the country without a leading watercourse, and as we had failed in
procuring a sufficient quantity of game, I determined to take this
favourable opportunity of killing a bullock before leaving the river.
Jan. 16.--On returning, we found our party encamped about four miles
lower down the river than where I had left them. I then removed them to a
more convenient spot about two miles still lower down (lat. 23 degrees 21
minutes 30 seconds). Just at the moment we were preparing to shoot the
bullock, we heard the cooee of a native, and in a short time two men were
seen approaching and apparently desirous of having a parley. Accordingly,
I went up to them; the elder, a well made man, had his left front tooth
out, whilst the younger had all his teeth perfect; he was of a muscular
and powerful figure, but, like the generality of Australian aborigines,
had rather slender bones; he had a splendid pair of moustachios, but his
beard was thin. They spoke a language entirely different from that of the
natives of Darling Downs, but "yarrai" still meant water. Charley, who
conversed with them for some time, told me that they had informed him, as
well as he could understand, that the Mackenzie flowed to the north-east.
Brown found an empty seed-vessel of the Nelumbium, in their camp. At
sunset we killed our bullock, and during the 17th and 18th occupied
ourselves in cutting up the meat, drying it in the sun, frying the fat,
preparing the hide, and greasing our harness. Charley, in riding after
the horses, came to some fine lagoons, which were surrounded by a deep
green belt of Nelumbiums. This plant grows, with a simple tap root, in
the deep soft mud, bearing one large peltate leaf on a leaf stalk, about
eight feet high, and from twelve to eighteen inches in diameter, the
flower-stalk being of the same length or even longer, crowned with a pink
flower resembling that of a Nymphaea, but much larger: its seed-vessel is
a large cone, with perpendicular holes in its cellular tissue, containing
seeds, about three quarters of an inch in length. We found the following
shells in the river, viz.; two species of Melania, a Paludina, the
lanceolate Limnaea, a cone-shaped Physa (?), a Cyclas with longitudinal
ribs, and the Unio before described. Murphy shot an Ostioglossum, a
Malacopterygious fish, about three feet long, with very large scales,
each scale having a pink spot. We afterwards found this fish in the
waters flowing into the Gulf of Carpentaria; both on its eastern and
western sides: and, according to the natives of Port Essington, to whom I
showed the dried specimen, it is also found in the permanent water-holes
of the Cobourg peninsula.
Jan. 18.--Leaving my party to complete the process of drying and packing
the charqui, I started with my two black companions to examine the
country to the north-west. After passing the gullies in the immediate
neighbourhood of the river, we came to sandstone ridges covered with an
almost impenetrable scrub; chiefly composed of stiff and prickly shrubs,
many of them dead, with dry branches filling the intervals. As no grass
grew on the poor soil, the bush-fires--those scavengers of the
forest--are unable to enter and consume the dead wood, which formed the
principal obstacle to our progress. Difficult, however, as it was to
penetrate such thickets with pack-bullocks, I had no choice left, and
therefore proceeded in the same direction. In a short time, we reached an
open Bricklow scrub containing many dry water-holes, which, farther on,
united into a watercourse. We passed a creek flowing to the eastward to
join the Mackenzie, and continued our route through patches of Bricklow
scrub, alternating with Bastard-box forest, and open Vitex scrub, in
which the Moreton Bay ash was very plentiful. About eight miles from our
camp, we came upon an open forest of narrow-leaved Ironbark (E.
resinifera) and Bastard-box, covering gentle slopes, from which shallow
well-grassed hollows descended to the westward. Coming again on scrub,
and following it down in a westerly direction, we came to a dry creek;
and found water in holes along the scrub. Considering this a favourable
place for the camp, I sent Charley back, to guide my party through the
scrub; whilst I proceeded with Brown to examine the creek upwards, to the
north-west. After a ride of about five miles, during which several fine
lagoons were seen, we reached a prominent hill of sandstone formation,
surrounded by a most beautiful, open, silver-leaved Ironbark forest,
changing occasionally into plains without a tree. I ascended the hill,
and obtained a very extensive view from its summit. A range of peaks bore
N. 57 degrees W.; another range, with undulating outline, was seen to the
south-east; and another less prominent range bore N. 45 degrees W. The
hill is in latitude 23 degrees 10 minutes, and bears the name of Mount
Stewart, in compliment to Mr. Stewart, veterinary surgeon of Sydney, to
whom I am indebted for great assistance and most valuable advice.
Towards the north-east, the country appeared to be very level, with only
one low ridge, apparently at a great distance. To the south, and also to
the west, some long-stretched flat-topped hills were visible, several
extending as far as the eye could reach. I continued my ride in the
direction of the range of peaks to the north-west, over an undulating
country of varied character, now extending in fine downs and plains, now
covered with belts of thick Bricklow scrub, with occasional ridges of
open silver-leaved Ironbark forest. Among the latter was a rather stunted
gum-tree, with a black scaly butt; it was very frequent, and greatly
resembled the Moreton Bay ash. The numerous watercourses which I crossed,
were all dry; and, when the approach of night compelled us to select a
camping place, which we did in a small grove of Bricklow, we should have
been without water, had not a thunder-storm with light showers of rain,
enabled us to collect about a quart of it to make some tea. The next
morning we continued our examination, passing over a country of scrub,
plain, and forest land; and made our breakfast, and watered our horses,
at a small pool of water that was collected in a hole of a little creek,
after the last night's thunder-storm. About four miles from this spot, we
again found permanent water, near the scrub; and, at three miles farther
on, crossed a fine creek, with a reedy bed, along which lightly timbered
flats extended; and, about six miles to the W. N. W., we found another
creek, separated from the former by openly timbered ridges, and
occasional patches of scrub. The flats along this creek and its
tributaries were covered with the most luxuriant grass; but are without
permanent water, although at present supplied by the late thunder-storms.
Brown gave chase to an emu with several young ones, but did not succeed
in capturing any of them.
We now commenced our return to the camp, and, being impatient to get on,
put our horses into a canter; the consequence of which was that we lost
our way, and were ignorant as to which side we had left the tracks.
Thinking, however, that Mount Stewart would guide us, when we should come
in sight of it, I kept a south-easterly course, which soon brought us
into a thick Bricklow scrub. In passing the large flats of the last
creek, which was here full of fine reedy water-holes, we observed a
native; and Brown cooeed to him, and by a sign requested him to wait for
us: but he was so frightened, by the sudden appearance of two men
cantering towards him, that he took to his heels, and soon disappeared in
the neighbouring scrub. We rode the whole day through a Bricklow thicket,
which, in only three or four places, was interrupted by narrow strips of
open country, along creeks on which fine flooded-gums were growing. The
density of the scrub, which covered an almost entirely level country,
prevented our seeing farther than a few yards before us, so that we
passed our landmark, and, when night approached, and the country became
more open, we found ourselves in a part of the country totally unknown to
us. At the outside of the scrub, however, we were cheered by the sight of
some large lagoons, on whose muddy banks there were numerous tracts of
emus and kangaroos. In a recently deserted camp of the Aborigines, we
found an eatable root, like the large tubers of Dahlia, which we greedily
devoured, our appetite being wonderfully quickened by long abstinence and
exercise. Brown fortunately shot two pigeons; and, whilst we were
discussing our welcome repast, an emu, probably on its way to drink,
approached the lagoon, but halted when it got sight of us, then walked
slowly about, scrutinizing us with suspicious looks, and, when Brown
attempted to get near it, trotted off to a short distance, and stopped
again, and continued to play this tantalizing trick until we were tired;
when, mounting our horses, we proceeded on our way. Supposing, from the
direction of the waters, that we had left our former tracks to the left,
I turned to the north-east to recover them; but it soon became very dark,
and a tremendous thunder-storm came down upon us. We were then on a high
box-tree ridge, in view of a thick scrub; we hobbled our horses, and
covered ourselves with our blankets; but the storm was so violent, that
we were thoroughly drenched. As no water-holes were near us, we caught
the water that ran from our blankets; and, as we were unable to rekindle
our fire, which had been extinguished by the rain, we stretched our
blankets over some sticks to form a tent, and notwithstanding our wet and
hungry condition, our heads sank wearily on the saddles--our usual bush
pillow--and we slept soundly till morning dawned. We now succeeded in
making a fire, so that we had a pot of tea and a pigeon between us. After
this scanty breakfast, we continued our course to the north-east. Brown
thought himself lost, got disheartened, grumbled and became exceedingly
annoying to me; but I could not help feeling for him, as he complained of
severe pain in his legs. We now entered extensive Ironbark flats, which
probably belong to the valley of the Mackenzie. Giving our position every
consideration, I determined upon returning to the mountains at which we
had turned, and took a north-west course. The country was again most
wretched, and at night we almost dropped from our saddles with fatigue.
Another pigeon was divided between us, but our tea was gone. Oppressed by
hunger, I swallowed the bones and the feet of the pigeon, to allay the
cravings of my stomach. A sleeping lizard with a blunt tail and knobby
scales, fell into our hands, and was of course roasted and greedily
eaten. Brown now complained of increased pain in his feet, and lost all
courage. "We are lost, we are lost," was all he could say. All my words
and assurances, all my telling him that we might be starved for a day or
two, but that we should most certainly find our party again, could not do
more than appease his anxiety for a few moments. The next morning, the
21st, we proceeded, but kept a little more to the westward, and crossed a
fine openly timbered country; but all the creeks went either to the east
or to the north. At last, after a ride of about four miles, Brown
recognized the place where we had breakfasted on the 19th, when all his
gloom and anxiety disappeared at once. I then returned on my south-east
course, and arrived at the camp about one o'clock in the afternoon; my
long absence having caused the greatest anxiety amongst my companions. I
shall have to mention several other instances of the wonderful quickness
and accuracy with which Brown as well as Charley were able to recognize
localities which they had previously seen. The impressions on their
retina seem to be naturally more intense than on that of the European;
and their recollections are remarkably exact, even to the most minute
details. Trees peculiarly formed or grouped, broken branches, slight
clevations of the ground--in fact, a hundred things, which we should
remark only when paying great attention to a place--seem to form a kind
of Daguerreotype impression on their minds, every part of which is
readily recollected.
I rejoined my party at the creek which comes from Mount Stewart. The
natives had approached Mr. Gilbert when out shooting, with a singular,
but apparently friendly, noise: "Ach! Ach! Ach!" They had heard the cooce
of my blackfellow Charley, and thought Mr. Gilbert wanted them; but, as
he was alone, he thought it prudent to retire to the camp.
The thunder-storm, which we experienced on the night of the 19th, had
completely changed the aspect of the country round Mount Stewart. All the
melon-holes of the scrub, all the ponds along the creeks, all the
water-holes in the beds of the creeks, were full of water; the creek at
which we encamped, was running; the grass looked fresh and green; the
ground, previously rotten, was now boggy, and rendered travelling rather
difficult; but we were always at home, for we found water and grass
everywhere.
The days from the 17th to the 23rd were exceedingly hot, but, during the
early morning and the evening, the air was delightfully cool. Light
casterly and northerly winds stirred during the day. Cumuli passed from
the same quarters; and generally gathered during the afternoon, and
became very heavy. The thunder-storms veered round from the west by the
north to the eastward. The nights of the 21st, 22nd, and 23rd were bright
and cold, with heavy dew. On the morning of the 23rd we had misty, loose,
confluent clouds, travelling slowly from the north-east, with some drops
of rain. I was now convinced that the rainy season had set in near the
sea coast; for the clouds which came from that direction, had evidently
been charged with rain; but, in passing over a large tract of dry
country, they were exhausted of their moisture, and the north-easterly
winds were too weak to carry them quickly so far inland.
The whole country I had travelled over, is composed of sandstone, with
probably occasional outbreaks of igneous rocks, as indicated by the rich
black soil. The plains and creeks abound in fossil wood, changed into
iron-ore and silica. The soil is generally good, but some of the sandy
flats are rotten: and the ridges are covered with pebbles.
The trees, with the exception of the flooded-gum, are of stunted habit;
and scrub is here developed ad infinitum. A Grevillea (G. ceratophylla
R.Br.?) with pinnatifid leaves, a small tree from fifteen to twenty feet
high, and about four inches in diameter; a Melaleuca about the same size,
with stiff lanceolate leaves, about two inches long and half an inch
broad, and slightly foliaceous bark; and an Acacia with glaucous
bipinnate leaves, of the section of the brush Acacias of Moreton
Bay--grew on the sandy soil along the ridges; and a handsome Convolvulus
with pink flowers adorned the rich plain south-east of Mount Stewart. I
examined the wood of all the arborescent Proteaceae which I met with, and
observed in all of them, with the exception of Persoonia, the great
development of the medullary rays, as it exists in several species of
Casuarina.
On the 23rd, 24th, and 25th January, the party moved over the country
which I had reconnoitred, to a place about twenty-five miles north-west
from Mount Stewart's Creek, and about thirty-four miles from the
Mackenzie. In the vicinities of several of the camps, Charley found many
nests of the native bee, full of the sweetest and most aromatic honey we
had ever tasted. The wild Marjoram, which grows abundantly here, and
imparts its fragrance even to the air, seemed to be the principal source
from which the bee obtained its honey. We collected a considerable
quantity of the marjoram, and added it to our tea, with the double
intention, of improving its flavour, and of saving our stock; we also
used it frequently as a condiment in our soup.
To the westward of our camp of the 25th January, was a large hill, which
I called "West Hill;" and, to the north and north-east, several ridges
confined the large valley of our creek and its tributaries. From a
sandstone peak to the north-east, which I descended with Mr. Roper, I
again saw the range of peaks which I had first observed from Mount
Stewart in a W.N.W. direction; and the country to the north and
north-east was evidently very mountainous: the valleys descending in a
northerly direction. We rode along the ridges on a W.N.W. and west
course, and came into the valley of another creek, which we crossed; and,
passing several other ridges, which appear to be connected with West
Hill, descended to a fine creek, in which we found a reedy water-hole of
considerable size. The character of all these creeks is the same.
Extensive flats of rotten ground, but beautifully clothed with tufts of
grass, openly timbered with Moreton Bay ash and flooded-gum, ascend into
gentle grassy slopes of silver-leaved Ironbark and bloodwood, and then
rise into sandstone ridges with Acacia thickets and shrubby plants
peculiar to the sandstone formation. An Acacia with very large falcate,
glaucous phyllodia, and the Euphorbiaceous Severn-tree, were very
plentiful; and Crinum grew in thousands on the sandy flats. After a very
hot day, the night was bright and dewy: a light breeze was felt at 8
o'clock, which cooled the air.
Jan. 26.--I removed my camp to the reedy water-hole of yesterday, about
five miles in the direction of west or west by north from our last
encampment. Here I planted the last peach-stones, with which Mr. Newman,
the present superintendent of the Botanic Garden in Hobart Town, had
kindly provided me. It is, however, to be feared that the fires, which
annually over-run the whole country, and particularly here, where the
grass is rich and deep even to the water's edge, will not allow them to
grow. To the creek on which we were encamped I gave the name of "Newman's
Creek," in honour of Mr. Newman. It flows in a south-east and southerly
course, and unites probably with West Hill Creek, on which we were
encamped the day before, and with the large creek which we crossed on the
25th; both of which probably belong to the system of the Mackenzie. Mr.
Calvert and Charley accompanied me in an excursion to the W.N.W., but,
having crossed some ridges and coming to scrub, we took a direction to
the northward. Fine Bastard-box flats and Ironbark slopes occupy the
upper part of Newman's Creek. On the ridges, we observed Persoonia with
long falcate leaves; the grass-tree (Xanthorrhaea); the rusty gum, and
the Melaleuca of Mount Stewart. Having ascended the sandstone ridge at
the head of Newman's Creek, we found ourselves on a table land out of
which rose the peaks for which we were steering, and from which we were
separated by fine downs, plains, and a lightly timbered country, with
belts of narrow-leaved Ironbark growing on a sandy soil. On one of the
plains quartzite cropped out; and silex and fossil wood lay scattered
over the rich black soil: the latter broke readily, like asbestos, into
the finest filaments, much resembling the fossil wood of Van Diemen's
Land. It is difficult to describe the impressions which the range of
noble peaks, rising suddenly out of a comparatively level country, made
upon us. We had travelled so much in a monotonous forest land, with only
now and then a glimpse of distant ranges through the occasional clearings
in the dismal scrub, that any change was cheering. Here an entirely open
country--covered with grass, and apparently unbounded to the westward;
now ascending, first, in fine ranges, and forming a succession of almost
isolated, gigantic, conical, and dome-topped mountains, which seemed to
rest with a flat unbroken base on the plain below--was spread before our
delighted eyes. The sudden alteration of the scene, therefore, inspired
us with feelings that I cannot attempt to describe. Proceeding onwards we
passed some water-holes; but, farther on, the water failed, except here
and there in a few pools, in the creeks coming from the range, that had
been filled by the last thunder-showers. These pools were generally lined
with patches of a narrow-leaved tea tree; and were full of basaltic
pebbles.
The breeze set in full and strong, as usual, at a quarter past eight
o'clock; the night was bright and cool, and the following morning
inexpressibly beautiful.
We enjoyed a dish of cockatoos for supper: the place abounds with them.
Jan. 27.--Charley went back to bring forward our party, whilst I
proceeded with Mr. Calvert to reconnoitre the plains under the peaks,
feeling confident of finding water at their foot. We passed over plains
and lightly-timbered basaltic ridges, between which shallow creeks came
down from the range, but we only found water in one or two holes. The
plains in the neighbourhood of our intended camp were richly grassed; and
a species of Hypoxis and the native Borage (Trichodesma zeylanica, R.
Br.) adorned them with their bright yellow and blue blossoms. Farther on,
however, the grass had been burnt, and was not yet recovered. As the day
advanced, and the black soil became heated by the almost vertical sun,
the heat from above and from below became almost insupportable.
Three peaks of this range were particularly striking; two of them seemed
to be connected by a lower ridge, in a direction from S.E. to N.W. The
south-eastern I called "Roper's Peak," after my companion, who afterwards
ascended it with Murphy and Brown, and the north-western, "Scott's Peak,"
after Helenus Scott, Esq., of Glendon, Hunter's River, who had kindly
assisted me in my expedition. In a W. by S. direction from these, and
distant four or five miles, is another peak, to which I gave the name of
"Macarthur's Peak," after Mr. William Macarthur, of Cambden. All these
peaks are composed of Domite; and Roper's and Scott's Peaks are
surrounded by a sandstone formation, covered with a dense low scrub.
I passed between Roper's Peak and Macarthur's Peak, to the northward, and
came in sight of another very remarkable cone, which I afterwards called
Calvert's Peak, after my fellow-traveller, in consequence of his having
suffered severely in its neighbourhood, as I shall soon have to mention.
I traced a creek at the east side of Macarthur's Peak to its head, and
went down another on its west side to a large plain, which seemed to be
limited to the westward by openly-timbered ridges. As we advanced into
the plain, a most remarkable and interesting view of a great number of
peaks and domes opened to the N.N.W. and N.W. There seemed no end of
apparently isolated conical mountains, which, as they resemble very much
the chain of extinct volcanos in Auvergne, might easily be mistaken for
such; but, after changing the aspect a little, they assumed the
appearance of immense tents, with very short ridge-poles. To the most
remarkable of them, which had the appearance of an immense cupola, I gave
the name of Gilbert's Dome, after my companion. Far to the N.N.W. a blue
peak was seen rising behind a long range of mountains, and from the
latter a valley seemed to descend to the W.N.W. A round hill, of a
reddish colour, to the south or south-west of Macarthur's Peak, was
called Mount Lowe, after R. Lowe, Esq. of Sydney. The general direction
of these mountains seems to be from N. 60 degrees W. to S. 60 degrees E.,
and, if we compare them with the line of the coast in the neighbourhood
of Broadsound and Shoalwater bay, bearing due east, it will be found that
they are parallel to its direction. All the creeks which we examined, and
which fell to the south-west, were entirely dry. On the ridges which
bounded the plain to the westward, I met with Acacia pendula; and I may
here remark that this appears to be the most northern limit of its
habitat. Here also, in an old camp of the natives, we found a heap of
muscle-shells, which were probably taken from some very deep and shady
holes in the creek, but which were now without the slightest indication
of moisture. Water failing us on the western slopes, I crossed to the
east side, under the idea and hope that the north and north-east sides of
the range, from being more exposed to the sea winds, would be better
provided with water; and, passing to the left of Calvert's Peak, over low
basaltic ridges, I came to a creek with a shallow bed, winding between
basaltic ridges to the north-east. These ridges were lightly timbered,
and covered with an abundance of dry grass: dark-green patches of scrub
raised our hopes from time to time, and quickened our pace; but in vain,
for no water was to be found. Fatigued and exhausted by thirst, both
rider and horse wished for an early halt. We stopped, therefore, and
hobbled our horses; and, when I had spread my saddle, my head sank
between its flaps, and I slept soundly until the cool night-air, and the
brilliant moonlight, awoke me. I found my poor companion, Mr. Calvert,
suffering severely from thirst, more so indeed than I did; but I was
unfortunately labouring under a most painful diarrhoea, which of itself
exhausted my strength. In the morning, to add to our distress, our horses
were not to be found, and Mr. Calvert had a walk of four hours to get
them: the poor brutes had rambled away in search of water, but found
none. The scream of a cockatoo made me wish to continue our ride down the
creek; but my companion was so completely exhausted that I resolved upon
returning to the camp, but by a different route, passing to the east side
of Scott's and Roper's Peaks. We found sandstone ridges to the very foot
of the peaks. Although we passed many localities where water might have
been expected, and travelled where three different rocks, domite,
sandstone, and basalt, came in contact, and where springs are so
frequently found, yet not a drop of water could we find. In travelling
over the hot plains our horses began to fail us; neither whip nor spur
could accelerate their snail-like pace; they seemed to expect that every
little shade of the scattered trees would prove a halting-place; and it
was not without the greatest difficulty that we could induce them to pass
on. It was indeed distressingly hot: with open mouths we tried to catch
occasional puffs of a cooler air; our lips and tongue got parched, our
voice became hoarse, and our speech unintelligible. Both of us, but
particularly my poor companion, were in the most deplorable state. In
order to ease my horse, I tried to walk; but, after a few paces. I found
it impossible; I was too much exhausted. At this distressing moment,
however, we crossed the tracks of horses and bullocks, and then we knew
we were near the camp, the sight of which, a short time afterwards, was
most welcome to us.
Jan. 29.--Finding that one of the water-holes of the camp had dried up,
and that the other was very muddy, we returned to larger water-holes two
miles to the south-east. After having done this, I sent Mr. Gilbert and
Charley down the creek, to ascertain its course, and to see whether it
would be practicable to skirt the highland of peak range to the westward.
Last night thunder-storms were gathering to the south-west, but they did
not come up to us. The night breeze is very strong and regular, and sets
in invariably between a quarter and half-past eight o'clock; last night
it was quite a gale, which I considered to be the indication of a change
in the weather, and of rain.
John Murphy brought the flower of a yellow Hibiscus from Roper's Peak: it
is certainly a new species.
Jan. 30.--Last night clouds gathered into a thunder-storm to the
south-west, but it passed by with very little rain: heavy clouds hung
round us, in every direction, but it seemed as if even their passage over
the parched plains exhausted their moisture. In the east and south-east a
heavy thunder cloud, with incessant lightning, was seen, but so distant
that we could not hear the thunder. In the morning, loose clouds spread
over the whole sky: this was the first cloudy day we had experienced for
the last three weeks. Nature looks quite refreshed; the grass is so
green, and the modest blue Ruellia so plentiful; whole fields of Crinum
are in full blossom; and the Ironbark and flooded-gum with a denser and
richer foliage than usual, afford us a most agreeable shade. I wish I
could sufficiently describe the loveliness of the morning just before and
after sunrise: the air so clear, so transparent; the sky slightly tinged
with roseate hues, all nature so fresh, so calm, so cool. If water were
plentiful, the downs of Peak Range would be inferior to no country in the
world. Mr. Calvert collected a great number of Limnaea in the
water-holes: its shell is more compact than those we have before seen,
and has a slight yellow line, marking probably the opening at a younger
age. Several insects of the genera Mantis and Truxalis were taken, but
did not appear different from those we had previously collected.
Jan. 31.--We had a thunder-storm from the west, and thunder clouds in all
quarters; but, as usual, very little rain. Mr. Gilbert returned from his
exploratory ride, and stated that the plains extended far to the
westward, and that they rose in that direction, forming a succession of
terraces; and that another fine range of peaks, even more imposing than
those of our Peak Range, reared their heads to the westward of the
plains, converging towards the latter [Note at end of para.]; that all the
creeks went down to the south and south-west; but that he found no water,
except one fine lagoon about fifteen miles to the south-west, which was
covered with ducks. He had observed the sign of an anchor, or broad-arrow,
cut into a tree with a stone tomahawk, and which he supposed had been
done, either by a shipwrecked sailor, or by a runaway convict from Moreton
Bay, when it was a penal settlement: the neighbouring trees were variously
marked by Blackfellows.
[Note. Captain P. P. King, who surveyed this part of the coast, informs me
that the coast hills as seen from the sea, are generally of peaked form,
particularly the remarkable elevation of Mount Funnel, at the back of
Broad Sound--which is apparently not connected with the neighbouring
ranges--and also that of Double Mount, which is visible from a distance
of 60 miles. The Cumberland Islands also, which front the coast in the
same vicinity, are of peaked shape, and one, Mount Dryander, on the west
side of Whitsunday Passage, is a very high peak. In the Appendix to
Captain King's Voyage, Dr. Fitton describes the islands, from the
specimens which were submitted for his inspection, to be of primitive
formation; and notices the following rocks: Compact felspar of a
flesh-red hue, enclosing a few small crystals of reddish felspar and of
quartz; Coane porphyritic conglomerate of a reddish hue; Serpentine;
Slaty clay--which forms the general character of the Percy Islands.
Repulse Island produced a compact felspar--a compound of quartz, mica,
and felspar, having the appearance of decomposed granite. (King's Voyage,
Appendix, p. 607.) Captain King also describes this portion of the coast
to be more than usually fertile in appearance; and Captain Blackwood, of
Her Majesty's Ship Fly, saw much of this part, and corroborates Captain
King's opinion as to its fertility. It is hereabouts that the Araucaria
Cunninghamiana grows in such abundance.]
Being too weak to travel, I sent Mr. Roper and Brown to the northward and
to the north-east, to examine the country.
By my lunar observations, I made our longitude 148 degrees 19 minutes;
our latitude was 22 degrees 57 minutes; so that our distance from Keppel
Bay was 175 miles, and from Broad Sound 100. The Mackenzie probably
disembogues into Keppel Bay, and if so, it will form the inlet to a fine
country; for I suppose that all the creeks going down to the south and
south-west, either fall into the Mackenzie itself, or join one of its
tributaries.
Mr. Gilbert found the skull of a large kangaroo, the nasal cavity of
which appeared unusually spacious. He brought home a new Malurus, and a
Rallus: he also shot another species of Rallus on the water-hole near our
encampment; he also brought in a true Caprimulgus.
On Mr. Roper's return, he informed me that he had met with a creek at the
other side of the hills to the east of us; that the hills were covered
with dense scrub, teeming with wallabis; and that the creek went to the
north-east, several other creeks joining it; that, lower down, it was
lined with Casuarinas, and that about seven miles from the hills, he
found fine water-holes.