RUINED CASTLE CREEK--ZAMIA CREEK--BIGGE'S MOUNTAIN--ALLOWANCE OF FLOUR
REDUCED--NATIVES SPEAR A HORSE--CHRISTMAS RANGES--BROWN'S
LAGOONS--THUNDER-STORMS--ALBINIA DOWNS--COMET CREEK--NATIVE CAMP.
Dec. 1.--I rode to the eastward from our camp, to ascertain how far we
were from the water-hole to which I had intended to conduct my party.
After having ascended the gullies, and passed the low scrub and
cypress-pine thicket which surrounds them, I came into the open forest,
and soon found our tracks, and the little creek for which I had steered
the day before. This creek, however, soon became a rocky gully, and
joined a large creek, trending to the east and south-east. Disheartened
and fatigued, I returned to the camp, resolved upon following down the
course of the Boyd to the south-west, until I should come into a more
open country. On my way back, I fell in with a new system of gullies,
south of the creek I had left, and east of the creek on which our camp
was, and which I had called "The Creek of the Ruined Castles," because
high sandstone rocks, fissured and broken like pillars and walls and the
high gates of the ruined castles of Germany, rise from the broad sandy
summits of many hills on both sides of the valley.
When I returned to the camp, Mr. Gilbert told me, that Mr. Roper and John
Murphy had been on a mountain towards the head of the main creek,
north-west from our camp, and that they had seen an open country before
them. I therefore started, on the 2d December, with Mr. Gilbert to
examine it. Our admiration of the valley increased at every step. The
whole system of creeks and glens which join "Ruined Castle Creek," would
form a most excellent cattle station. With the exception of the narrow
gorge through which the main creek passes to join the Creek of Palms
[Mr. Arrowsmith is of opinion that such a junction is improbable, if
the author is alluding to the creek, called Palm Tree Creek, which he
fell in with about 60 miles to the S.E.--ED.] to the south-east,
which might be shut by a fence not thirty yards long; and of the
passable ranges to the north-west, which lead into a new country,
and which form the pass seen by Roper and Murphy, it is everywhere
surrounded by impassable barriers. Beautiful grass, plenty of water in
the lower part of the creek, and useful timber, unite to recommend this
locality for such a purpose. The creeks to the east and south-east are
also equally adapted for cattle stations. After passing a stony ridge
covered with spotted-gum, from which the remarkable features of the
country around us--the flat-topped mountain wall, the isolated pillars,
the immense heaps of ruins towering over the summits of the
mountains--were visible, we descended a slope of silver-leaved Ironbark,
and came to a chain of water-holes falling to the east. Travelling in a
north-westerly direction, and passing over an openly timbered country,
for about two miles, we came to the division of the waters, on a slight
ridge which seemed to connect two rather isolated ranges. We followed a
watercourse to the northward, which, at seven miles [In the original
drawing the watercourse is not more than two miles long, according to
Mr. Arrowsmith, so that seven miles must be a mistake.--ED.] lower
down, joined an oak-tree creek, coming from the ranges to the eastward.
Here water was very scarce; the banks of the creek were covered with
Bricklow scrub; and a bush-fire, which had recently swept down the valley,
had left very little food for our cattle: the blady-grass, however, had
begun to show its young shoots, and the vegetation, on some patches of
less recent burnings, looked green. Sterculia (heterophylla?) and the
Bottle-tree, were growing in the scrub; and many Wonga-Wonga pigeons
(Leucosarcia picata, GOULD.) were started from their roosting-places under
the old trees in the sandy bed of the creek. We caught a young curlew; and
Mr. Gilbert shot two Wonga-Wongas, and three partridge-pigeons (Geophaps
scripta). The latter abound in the silver-leaved Ironbark forest, where
the grass has been recently burned.
After having contended with scrubs, with swamps, and with mountains, we
were again doomed to grapple with our old enemy, the silver-leaved
Bricklow, and a prickly Acacia with pinnate leaves, much resembling the
A. farnesiana of Darling Downs.
The most remarkable feature in the vegetation; however, was an aborescent
Zamia, with a stem from seven to eight or ten feet high, and about nine
inches in diameter, and with elongated cones, not yet ripe. In
consequence of the prevalence of this plant, I called the creek "Zamia
Creek." In the fat-hen flats, over which we travelled in following the
watercourse to Zamia creek, I was surprised to find Erythrina, which I
had been accustomed to meet with only on the creeks, and at the outskirts
of mountain brushes, near the sea-coast. The white cedar (Melia
Azedarach) grows also along Zamia Creek, with casuarina, and a species of
Leptospermum. On my return to the camp, I found that a party had been out
wallabi shooting, and had brought in three; they were about two feet
long; body reddish grey, neck mouse grey, a white stripe on each
shoulder, black muzzle, and black at the back of the ear; the tail with
rather long hair. The flying squirrel (Petaurus sciureus) which was not
different from that of the Hunter; and a Centropus phasianellus, (the
swamp pheasant of Moreton Bay), were shot.
Dec. 3.--We stopped at Ruined Castle Creek, in order to obtain more
wallabies, which abounded among the rocks, and which appeared to be a new
species: it approaches nearest to Petrogale lateralis of GOULD, from
which, however, it essentially differs. Mr. Gilbert and all our best
shots went to try their luck; they succeeded in killing seven of them.
The weather was cloudy, but it cleared up during the forenoon; in the
afternoon rain commenced with a perfect calm; for the last three days
easterly winds have prevailed, often blowing very strong at night.
In the rocky gullies, we found the following plants: a new species of
Grevillea, having pinnatifid leaves with very long divisions, the
blossoms of a fine red, and the seed-vessels containing two flat seeds,
surrounded by a narrow transparent membrane; Leucopogon juniperinum and
lanceolatum; a Dodonaea with long linear leaves and D. triquetra, were
frequent.
Dec. 4.--I went with my whole party to Zamia Creek, the latitude of which
is 25 degrees 5 minutes 4 seconds, and which is about sixteen miles west
by north from our last camp.
Dec. 5.--We followed Zamia Creek about six miles down. It is very winding
and scrubby; the rock on its banks is a clayey flagstone (Psammite); the
upper strata are more clayey, and break in many small pieces. Several
hills approached the creek; and a large mountain which I called Bigge's
Mountain, in acknowledgment of the kind support of Frederic Bigge, Esq.,
was seen to the eastward. A large kangaroo started out of the creek, and
was killed by our dogs; it appeared to be rather different from the
common one, being remarkably light-coloured, with a white belly, black
end of the tail, and the inside of the ear dark. We soon met with a fine
reedy water-hole, with swarms of little finches fluttering about it; and,
the place being suitable, I encamped for the night, and took the
opportunity to repair some of our harness. The night was cloudy; the
morning very fine; and the day very hot, with an occasional fresh breeze
from the northward, which generally sets in about eleven o'clock. Thick
cumuli came from the northward during the afternoon, but disappeared
towards sunset.
Dec. 6.--After a fine night, we had a cold morning with heavy dew. From
the hills near the camp, Mount Nicholson bore N. 30 degrees W. and
Aldis's Peak due north; Bigge's Range was in sight to the eastward.
The horses had gone back to Ruined Castle Creek, about twenty-one miles
distant; and the bullocks to our last camp, which, according to Charley,
had been visited by the Blackfellows, who had apparently examined it very
minutely. It was evident that they kept an eye upon us, although they
never made their appearance. Our allowance of flour was now reduced from
six pounds to five.
Dec. 7.--We travelled down Zamia Creek. The bed of the creek, though
lined with many casuarinas, was entirely dry, and we did not reach a
water-hole until we had travelled a distance of nine miles from the camp.
Hoping that the supply of water would increase, I travelled on ward,
leaving Mount Nicholson about six miles to the left. As we proceeded, the
flats along the creek increased in size; and we entered a level country
(which seemed unbounded towards the north-east) covered with
silver-leaved Ironbark, box, and flooded-gum. We passed a large scrubby
creek, coming from Mount Nicholson, and a considerable watercourse from
Aldis's Peak. On the latter, we found a fine water-hole, at which we
encamped. We started a great number of kangaroos; but, unfortunately,
they all escaped. The whole country was full of game.
Whilst preparing to proceed on a RECONNOISSANCE of the neighbourhood,
Charley, who had been sent for my horse, returned at full gallop, and
told me that Blackfellows were spearing our horses. Fortunately Messrs.
Gilbert and Calvert had just come in; and, mounting our horses, three of
us hastened to the place where Charley had seen the Blacks, leaving the
remainder of our party to defend the camp. We found one of our horses had
been deeply wounded in the shoulder; but fortunately, the others were
unhurt, and were grazing quietly. Charley saw two Blackfellows retreating
into the scrub, but had seen a great number of them when he first came to
the place. This event, fortunately not a very disastrous one, was so far
useful, as it impressed every one with the necessity of being watchful,
even when the Blackfellows were not suspected to be near.
The latitude of our camp was 24 degrees 54 minutes 19 seconds, and about
seven miles from our last camp. Aldis's Peak bore N.W. by W., distant two
miles and a half; and I found that it was surrounded by a dense scrub.
After following Zamia Creek for some miles, I turned to the left, and
travelled about north-north-west, when the scrub opened, and we came upon
open ridges, and, at about a mile and a half from the river, found some
fine lagoons. The ridges, which are spurs of Aldis's Peak and Expedition
Range, disappear in the level country to the north-east. Farther on to
the north-north-west, I passed some fine plains, having the black soil,
the vegetation, the dry creeks and watercourses, of Darling Downs. Thick
scrub seems to extend all along the foot of the range, from Aldis's Peak
to Mount Nicholson. Both these mountains are composed of basalt,
containing numerous crystals of peridot.
Dec. 8.--I travelled with my whole party over the ground which I had
reconnoitred yesterday, and had to go a considerable distance farther to
find water. Along the scrubs there are generally chains of water-holes,
which retain the water for a long time, and are soon filled by heavy
thunderstorms; they are well puddled with clay, and, therefore, become
dry almost exclusively by evaporation. Our camp was about eight miles
N.N.W. from the last.
The feed was all parched up: the native carrot, which was so green when
we passed Darling Downs, was here withered and in seed. Immense stretches
of forest had been lately burned, and no trace of vegetation remained.
Partridge-pigeons were very numerous, and the tracks of kangaroos and
wallabies were like sheep-walks. Charley saw an emu; but an iguana and a
partridge-pigeon were the only addition to our night's mess.
The sky was covered by a thin haze, occasioned by extensive bush fires. A
fine breeze, which sprung up at eleven o'clock, from the northward, made
travelling very agreeable. We enjoy no meal so much as our tea and damper
at luncheon, when we encamp between twelve and two o'clock. It is
remarkable how readily the tea dispels every feeling of fatigue, without
the slightest subsequent injury of health.
Paludinas and Unios were very frequent in the water-holes. The
silver-leaved Ironbark (Eucalyptus pulverulentus) was here coming into
blossom. The whole vegetation seemed to feel the heat of an almost
vertical sun; and, with the exception of the fresh green of the Vitex
shrub, the silver-leaved Bricklow, and those patches of young grass which
had been burnt about a month before--all nature looked withered. It was
very hot from nine o'clock to eleven, when the cooling northerly breeze
usually sets in.
Upon reaching the place of our next camp, Mr. Roper went to cut
tent-poles, but, perhaps too intent on finding good ones, unfortunately
lost his way, and wandered about the bush for about five miles before we
were able to make him hear our cooees. Accidents of this kind happen very
easily in a wooded country, where there is no leading range or
watercourse to guide the rambler, or when sufficient care is not taken to
mark and keep the direction of the camp.
Dec. 9.--The haze of yesterday cleared up at sunset, after having formed
two threatening masses of clouds in the east and in the west, united by a
broad belt of mare's tails across the sky. It became cloudy again, and
prevented my taking observations during the night; the morning was cool
and agreeable, clearing up about eleven o'clock; the northerly wind
stirring, as usual. Proceeding on our journey, we travelled about nine
miles W.N.W. over a Box flat, with stiff soil and melon-holes; after a
few miles, it changed into an open silver-leaved Ironbark forest, with
lighter soil. About six miles from our last camp, we came upon a fine
creek (with Casuarinas and palm-trees), flowing from the mountains on a
north-easterly course; and, about three miles further, to the W.N.W., we
came to another creek, and numerous palm-trees growing near it. Following
up the latter, we found a fine water-hole surrounded by reeds, and which
is probably fed by a spring. The forest was well grassed; and a small
Acacia, about fifteen or twenty feet high, with light green bipinnate
leaves (from which exuded an amber-coloured eatable gum), formed groves
and thickets within it. A Capparis, a small stunted tree, was in fruit:
this fruit is about one inch long and three-quarters of an inch broad,
pear-shaped and smooth, with some irregular prominent lines. Capparis
Mitchelii has a downy fruit, and is common in the scrubs. A small
trailing Capparis, also with oblong eatable fruit, was first observed on
a hill near Ruined Castle Creek, in lat. 25 degrees 10 minutes: we met
with it frequently afterwards. We were encamped in the shade of a fine
Erythrina; and the Corypha-palm, Tristania, the flooded-gum, the
silver-leaved Ironbark, Tripetelus, and a species of Croton, grew around
us. A species of Hypochaeris and of Sonchus, were greedily eaten by our
horses; the large Xeranthemum grew on the slopes, among high tufts of
kangaroo grass. A species of Borage (Trichodesma zeylanica), with fine
blue flowers, was first seen here; and the native raspberry, and Ficus
muntia, were in fruit. In the afternoon, I went with Brown up the range,
following the bed of our creek; and, having ascended a spur of sandstone,
with gullies on each side, we came to a large basaltic mountain, clothed
with fine open timber, and a great number of arborescent Zamias.
Dec. 10.--Accompanied by Charley, I went in search of a passage over the
range. We ascended several hills in order to obtain general views, and
found that the level country, over which we had travelled during the last
two days, was of less extent than I had anticipated. To the north-east by
east, ranges rise with the characteristic outlines of the basalt and
phonolite,--in peaks and long stretched flat-topped hills, with
undulations openly timbered extending at their base. One valley descended
to the north-north-east; another to the northward. The principal range
has a direction from south-west to north-east; it is flat on the top, is
well grassed and openly timbered; but, to the northward, it becomes
scrubby, and also changes its geological character. After having crossed
the range--without any great difficulty, with the exception of some steep
places--we came on gullies going down to the north-west; and, from the
rocky head of one of them, the whole country to the west and northwest
burst upon us. There was a fine valley, a flat country, plains, isolated
long-stretched hills, and distant ranges; the highest points of the
latter bearing 77 degrees E. and 76 degrees W.; and, as I hoped to reach
them by Christmas time, I called them "Christmas Ranges." Not being able
to discover a good slope on which our bullocks could travel, I descended
at once into the gully, and followed it in all its windings; knowing well
from experience that it is easier to find a passage up a mountain range
than down it. The gully had all the characters of those of the Boyd; the
same sandstone rock, the same abruptness, and the same vegetation;
excepting, perhaps, a new Grevillea, with pinnatifid leaves and
yellowish-white woolly flowers, which we found here. There was no water,
except in some small holes full of gum leaves, which had rendered it
unfit for use. After proceeding with great difficulty about three miles,
we found that the gullies opened into a broad flat valley; in which
fields of fat-hen, the Croton shrub, the native Tobacco, Erythrina, fine
specimens of flooded-gum, Tristania, and the Moreton Bay ash, were
growing in great abundance. Farther down, however, the Bricklow scrub
covered the whole valley; the water-course disappeared almost entirely;
and we were completely disappointed in our hopes of finding a fine
country. Small plains opened on both sides of the valley, surrounded by
Bricklow scrub, and with patches of Bricklow scattered over them, in
which the Bottle-tree frequently made its portly appearance. A large
flight of Wonga Wonga pigeons were feeding on the seeds of various
species of Acacia; we shot two of them. No water was to be found in an
extent of fifteen miles. The noisy call of the laughing Jackass (Dacclo
gigantea) made me frequently ride back and examine more minutely those
spots marked by a darker foliage; but the presence of this bird is no
certain indication of water, though he likes the neighbourhood of shady
creeks. I could not help thinking that a considerable creek must come
from the north-west side of Mount Nicholson; and, seeing an isolated
range to the south-west, I rode towards it, sure of finding water near
it, if there was any to be found. We approached the range just before
sunset, much tired, with two Wonga-Wongas and three iguanas at our
saddles. I had just informed my Blackfellow, that I wished to encamp,
even without water, when some old broken sheets of bark, remains of the
frail habitations of the natives, caught my eye; a dry water-hole, though
surrounded with green grass and sedges, showed that they had formerly
encamped there, with water. This water-hole was found to be one of a
chain of ponds extending along the edge of the scrub which covered the
hill; and, on following it farther down, we came to a fine pool of water,
which enabled us to encamp comfortably. Next morning, after having
enjoyed an iguana, and finding several other ponds well supplied with
water, we returned. In crossing several of the scrub plains before
mentioned, it was agreeable to observe that the dense vegetation which
covered them was not the miserable Burr and the wiry Vervain, but
Senecios and Sonchus (Sowthistle), which our horses greedily snatched as
they waded through them. The soil is of a dark colour, very rich, but
mild; and the rock below is basaltic. Kangaroos were feeding on the
plains along the scrub; and Charley fired unsuccessfully at a fine "old
man." I saw one emu, and Charley a drove of ten more. The country was
remarkably rich in various kinds of game; and I was very sorry that we
were not better sportsmen, to avail ourselves of so favourable a
circumstance. We found a passage for our bullocks at the west side of the
valley along which we had come down; the ascent was steep, but
practicable. We followed the spur up to the principal range, where we
found some difficulty in heading some steep gullies, which come up to the
highest crest of the mountains. After some tiresome riding, I was
fortunate enough to hit the head of the creek on which our party was
encamped; and, following it down--over loose rocks, large boulders, and
occasional steep falls--accompanied by my excellent little horse, which
willingly followed wherever I led, I came into a more open country; and
the report of a gun gave me the pleasing assurance that our camp was at
no great distance. My Blackfellow quitted me on the range, as he had done
before, on several similar occasions; and it was too evident that I could
not rely upon him in times of difficulty and danger. Within the scrub on
the range, we found five or six huts, lately constructed, of the natives;
they come here probably to find honey, and to catch rock-wallabies, which
are very numerous in the sandstone gullies. In the gully which I
descended, a shrub with dark-green leaves was tolerably frequent; its red
berries, containing one or two seeds, were about the size of a cherry,
and very good eating when ripe. The new Grevillea, before mentioned, was
also found here growing on a sandy soil; and a species of Clematis tied
the shrubs into an almost impenetrable maze. The arborescent Zamia was as
frequent here as on the slopes and flat tops of the basaltic mountains;
it grows from six to ten feet high, and even higher, and is about a foot
in diameter; and often, its dark scaly trunk, borne to the ground by the
winds, raises its fine head like a reclining man.
There was a thunder-storm to the south-east and east on the 10th
December. These thunder-storms are generally very local, belonging to
distant valleys and ranges. Much rain had fallen at the foot of the
range, but we had very little of it. Several of my companions suffered by
eating too much of the cabbage-palm. The Blackfellows will doubtless
wonder why so many noble trees had been felled here. One of our
kangaroo-dogs followed a kangaroo, and did not return; a severe loss, as
we have only one left out of five, and this one is young and diseased.
Our little terrier keeps very well.
Dec. 12--After a clear night, the morning was misty, with a wall of
clouds to the westward; at nine o'clock it cleared up, and loose cumuli
passed over from the east; at eleven o'clock all clouds had disappeared,
and a cool breeze set in from the northward. Charley did not succeed in
bringing in the horses and cattle sufficiently early for starting on the
long and difficult passage over the range. Our meat was all consumed; but
we wished to reserve our bullocks for Christmas, which was, in every one
of us, so intimately associated with recollections of happy days and
merriment, that I was determined to make the coming season as merry as
our circumstances permitted. This decision being final, every one
cheerfully submitted to a small allowance, and did his best to procure
game. Our latitude was 24 degrees 43 minutes.
Dec. 13.--We travelled along the spur at the west and south-west side of
Erythrina creek, at which we had been encamped; and, after having headed
the whole system of its gullies--keeping to the right along the main
range for about three miles, we came to the spur on which I and Charley
had ascended on our return, and which had a general direction to the
north-west. When we arrived at the foot of the range, our cattle and
horses were so jaded, and the water-hole still so far off, that I
encamped here, more especially as the feed was young and rich, and as I
had hopes of obtaining water by digging into the sand which filled the
upper part of the valley. In this, however, I did not succeed; for, upon
digging about three feet deep, I came on a layer of stiff clay very hard
and dry. Fortunately, however, a thunder-storm came on towards the
evening, which supplied our cattle as well as ourselves with water. This
was the only time we encamped without a certainty of water, during our
journey from Jimba to the head of the gulf, which occupied ten months.
The whole night was showery, the wind and clouds coming from all
directions.
Dec. 14.--We reached the water-holes I had discovered three days
previous. Our cattle were very thirsty, notwithstanding the late rain,
and they rushed into the water as soon as they got sight of it.
The hills, at the foot of which we are encamped, are composed of
whinstone (basalt). Pebbles of conglomerate, of flint, and of quartz
deeply coloured with iron, are, however, very frequent on the slopes. It
is remarkable that that part of the range which is composed of basalt, is
a fine open forest, whereas the basaltic hills of the large valley are
covered with dense scrub. The Myal was frequent; and the fruit of the
small lemon-tree was ripe.
I followed the watercourse which connects the water-holes on which we
encamped, and met every where with Bricklow scrub. Mr. Gilbert ascended
the hills, and stated that the whole valley to the westward appeared like
an immense sea of scrub.
A thunder-storm was forming to the north-west, but was probably deflected
by the ranges.
Dec. 15.--Last night we had two thunder-storms; one rose in the west, and
turned to the northward, following the Christmas Ranges; the other rose
in the south, and turned to the east, probably attracted by Expedition
Range. Still following the watercourse, we entered, after about four
miles travelling, into the scrub. The watercourse was soon lost in the
level ground, and water-holes appeared every where; the general direction
of the waters seemed to be to the north-west. Four miles farther we came
to a piece of open forest at the foot of a hill, which was covered with
ironstone-pebbles. Here we encamped without water; but, having passed
good water-holes not four miles distant, I sent Mr. Calvert and Brown to
fetch some, whilst I and Charley went forward to examine the country. On
my way to some ranges which I had seen to the eastward, I fell in with a
dry watercourse, and, following it down for about half a mile from the
camp, discovered a well-filled water-hole. The watercourse was found to
join a creek with a deep and very wide bed, but dry. Muscle-shells
strewed in every direction, and other appearances, indicated that, during
the wet season, the whole country must be very swampy. The course of the
creek was to the N. N. W., and it is joined by watercourses from the
right and left; all now quite dry. After having followed the creek for
about twelve miles, until sunset, without coming to the end of the scrub
through which it trended, we were compelled to retrace our steps; in
attempting which my companion, Charley, lost the track, but my good
little horse, Jim Crow, guided us to the camp, which we reached about
eleven o'clock. Mr. Calvert and Brown had not yet returned; although the
report of their guns had been heard several times. The night was
extremely cold, notwithstanding we were encamped under the shelter of
trees: and it was therefore evident that we were at a considerable
elevation above the level of the sea. The Box-tree of Jimba-flats, the
Bricklow--in short, the whole vegetation of the scrubby country, west of
Darling Downs, were still around us; and the Moreton Bay ash (a species
of Eucalyptus)--which I had met with, throughout the Moreton Bay
district, from the sea coast of the Nynga Nyngas to Darling Downs--was
here also very plentiful.
Dec. 16.--Our cattle and our horses, with the exception of those we had
used the night before, had strayed in search of water; but Charley found
them on the sow-thistle plains, beyond our last camp. Messrs. Calvert,
Murphy, and Brown, came in early this morning; they had lost their way in
the dark, in consequence of remaining too long at the water-hole. They
informed me that they had passed the night on an open piece of forest
ground along a creek. This intelligence induced me to examine the
locality: I therefore went with Brown, and found the creek, with a deep
sandy, but dry bed, full of reeds; its direction being from south by west
to north by east. I followed it up about eight miles, when the scrub
receded from its left bank, and a fine open extensive flat stretched to
the westward. I looked into the Casuarina thickets which occasionally
fringed its bank, in search of water; but found none. I was frequently on
the point of returning, but, induced by the presence of reeds, continued
the search, until the scrub again approached the right side of the creek;
and, in one of those chains of ponds which almost invariably exist at the
outside of these scrubs, a small pool of water was found. This gave me
fresh confidence, and I was eagerly examining the creek, when Brown
exclaimed, "Plenty of water, sir! plenty of water!" and a magnificent
lagoon, surrounded by a rich belt of reeds, lay before us. The natives
must have been at this spot some time before, and have burned the grass;
as the earth was now covered with a delicate verdure. The country
appeared flat, and was so openly timbered with fine flooded gum-trees,
that we could see for a considerable distance; a circumstance very
favourable to us, in case of the natives proving hostile. It would appear
that this place was frequently resorted to by the natives: the bark had
been recently stripped in various places; the huts were in good repair,
with heaps of muscle-shells and some kangaroo-bones about them. We
returned to the camp with the joyous news; for I had been greatly
perplexed as to the direction I ought to take. Charley returned very late
with the strayed cattle, and reported that he had seen the smoke of the
Blackfellow's fires all along the western ranges. This was welcome
intelligence; for we knew that their presence indicated the existence of
a good country. Yesterday in coming through the scrub, we had collected a
large quantity of ripe native lemons, of which, it being Sunday, we
intended to make a tart; but, as my companions were absent, the treat was
deferred until their return, which was on Monday morning, when we made
them into a dish very like gooseberry-fool; they had a very pleasant acid
taste, and were very refreshing. They are of a light yellow colour,
nearly round, and about half an inch in diameter; the volatile oil of the
rind was not at all disagreeable.
The chains of water-holes within the scrub are covered with a stiff
star-grass, having a great number of spikes rising from the top of the
stem; and several sedges crowd around the moister spots. A stiff, wiry,
leafless polygonaceous plant grows in the shallow depressions of the
surface of the ground, which are significantly termed by the squatters
"Melon-holes", and abound in the open Box-tree flats. A small shrubby
Stenochilus with very green linear lanceolate leaves and red tubulous
flowers, is frequent amongst the Bricklow.
The pools and lagoons contain Unios, Paludinas, and the lanceolate and
oval Limnaeas. Fine dry weather has set in; the northerly breeze is still
very regular; but the mornings, from eight to eleven, are very hot. A few
mosquitoes have made their appearance, probably in consequence of the
late rains. Charley killed a Diamond snake, larger than any he had ever
seen before; but he only brought in the fat, of which there was a
remarkable quantity. The Iguanas (Hydrosaurus, Gray) have a slight bluish
tinge about the head and neck; but in the distribution of their colours,
generally resemble H. Gouldii.
Mr. Gilbert found a land crab in the moist ground under a log of wood;
and Mr. Calvert brought me a species of helix of a yellowish green
colour.
Dec. 18.--It was with very great difficulty that we collected our horses
and cattle; but we could not find one of our pack bullocks, which had
concealed himself in the scrub, and, from the unfavourable situation of
our camp, we were obliged to abandon it. Old bullocks, when tired, care
very little about company, and even like to retire to any solitary spot,
where there is good feed and water. Having nearly reached the end of our
stage, we were overtaken by a thunder-storm from the south; which was
followed by another from the west with very heavy rain. This was the
first heavy rain to which we had been exposed, whilst on the day's march;
for thunder-storms did not generally rise till after two o'clock; at
which time we were usually secured in our tents.
The fine lagoons--which I called "Brown's Lagoons" after their
discoverer--and the good feed about them, induced me to stop for the
purpose of killing the fat bullock which Mr. Isaacs had given us, and of
drying it like the charqui of the South Americans; instead of waiting
till Christmas, as we originally intended; especially as we were ignorant
of the character of the country before us. Accordingly, on the 18th at
five o'clock in the morning, it was slaughtered and cut into thin slices;
which, before night, were nearly dried by the powerful heat of an almost
vertical sun. We enjoyed ourselves very much on this occasion, and
feasted luxuriously on fried liver at breakfast, on stuffed heart for
luncheon, and on a fine steak and the kidneys for supper. Those who may
have lived for so long a time as we had upon a reduced fare, will readily
understand with what epicurean delight these meals were discussed.
Dec. 19.--We completed our job, by melting down the fat, with which our
saddles, bridles, and all our leather gear, were well greased. In the
afternoon Mr. Calvert and Charley, who had been sent after the bullock we
had left behind, returned with him. They had found him quietly chewing
the cud, in a Bricklow grove near a small pool of water.
Dec. 20.--Whilst employed in arranging our packs, Murphy and Charley went
out to examine the surrounding country. On their return they informed me
that they had met with a native camp, the inhabitants of which were
probably out hunting, for they had left all their things behind.
Capparis Mitchelii was found in blossom. The cockatoo parrakeet of the
Gwyder River, (Nymphicus Novae Hollandiae, GOULD.), the common white
cockatoo, and the Moreton Bay Rosella parrot, were very numerous. We also
observed the superb warbler, Malurus cyaneus of Sydney; and the
shepherd's companion, or fan-tailed fly-catcher (Rhipidura); both were
frequent. Several rare species of finches were shot: and a species of the
genus Pomatorhinus, a Swan River bird, was seen by Mr. Gilbert. The
latitude of this encampment was found to be 24 degrees 44 minutes 55
seconds.
Dec. 21.--As our meat was not entirely dry, I thought it advisable to
remain another day at this place, which was usefully occupied by packing
the fat into bags made of the hide of the animal. Besides the plants
above-mentioned, a beautiful blue Nymphaea was found growing in the
lagoon; and around it, among the reeds and high cyperaceous plants, a
small labiate, a Gomphrena, the native Chamomile, and a Bellis were
growing.
The days continue very hot. At 5 P.M. we had a thunder-storm from the
southward: but little rain fell. It cleared up at seven o'clock; very
heavy dew in the morning.
Dec. 22.--We travelled to-day about five miles in a north-north-west
direction, and encamped at the creek where Charley and his companion had
seen the huts of the natives, which we found deserted. Our route lay
through a flat country, timbered with true box, (small Acacias forming
the underwood), along a fine lagoon on which were a number of ducks;
farther on, the Bastard box prevailed, with silver-leaved Ironbark, and
patches of Bricklow scrub, of Vitex and of the native lemon. A small tree
(a species of Acacia) was also seen about thirty or forty feet high, with
slightly drooping branches, and lanceolate deep green phyllodia about one
inch.
I reconnoitred with Charley, and found that the creek soon became
enveloped by scrub: to the west and south-west rose ranges of a moderate
elevation, parallel to which we travelled; plains frequently interspersed
with scrub, which became more dense as it approached the foot of the
ranges. From these appearances I determined upon sending my party back to
Brown's Lagoons, to secure water; whilst I should examine the country in
advance, in order to ascertain the extent of the scrub, in which we were
entangled.
Dec. 23--During the night we had a tremendous thunder-storm from the
southward with much rain, which did not cease till after midnight, and
was succeeded by a hurricane from the east. We witnessed a remarkable
meteor, of a fine bluish colour, stretching from E.N.E. to W.S.W. almost
parallel to the thunder-clouds. The moon, a day from its full, to the
eastward, probably produced this phenomenon.
The bower of the bowerbird (Chlamydera maculata, GOULD) was seen in the
scrub; it is made of dry grass, and its approaches at either end were
thickly strewn with snail shells and flint pebbles, which had been
collected by the bird with great industry, but for what purpose we could
not determine. Among the shells we found a Helix of a brownish colour and
of an oval form, approaching that of Bulimus.
Whilst my companions returned to Brown's Lagoons, Mr. Calvert and Brown
remained with me to examine the country. The creek which I followed down,
almost entirely disappeared; but, five miles farther on, its channel was
again observed, as deep as before, and was joined by several
water-courses from the Christmas Ranges. The principal channel of the
creek was lined with a species of Melaleuca, with slightly foliacious
bark. Several species of sedges, and nutritious grasses, grew round the
holes in which the water was constant. At about fifteen miles from the
camp, the creek was joined by that which I had followed for some distance
on the 15th December, and, about three miles farther down, it receives
another considerable tributary; and, at their junction, it is a fine
sheet of water. Here the country begins to open, with large Box-flats
extending on both sides. Two small creeks come in from the scrubby hills
to the eastward, but, at a short distance beyond their junction, almost
the whole channel disappears. Soon after, we came to another creek, to
the left of the first; but it disappeared in the same manner as the
other. We came upon several lagoons, and found some very fine grass: the
scrub reappeared on the rising ground about six miles north from the
large sheet of water. A little farther on, we came to ridges of basaltic
formation, openly timbered with silver-leaved Ironbark, and richly
covered with young grasses and herbs, identical with those of the Darling
Downs. Water holes with fine water were found at the foot of the hills.
Mimosa terminalis was frequent; numerous flights of partridge pigeons
(Geophaps scripta) were also seen.
Dec. 24.--We returned towards the camp, but, through some inattention,
kept too much to the eastward, and passed through a country of an
extremely diversified character, and very different in appearance from
that we had just left. Here we passed an extensive Myal forest, the
finest I had seen, covering the hilly and undulating country,
interspersed with groves of the native lemon tree; a few of which were
still sufficiently in fruit to afford us some refreshment. Occasionally
we met with long stretches of small dead trees, probably killed by bush
fires, alternating with Bricklow thickets: and then again crossed small
plains and patches of open forest ground, which much relieved the
tediousness of the ride through thick scrubs, which we had frequently to
penetrate with both hands occupied in protecting the face from the
branches. We also crossed chains of water-holes surrounded by a coarse
stargrass; these now changed into creeks with deep and irregular beds,
lined with Melaleucas, and now again dwindled into shallow channels,
scarcely to be recognised amidst the surrounding scrub. A week before,
these holes were hopelessly dry; but a recent thunder-storm had filled
them; and had also made the ground soft and heavy, and had called into
life thousands of small frogs, which, by an incessant croaking, testified
their satisfaction at the agreeable change.
Dec. 25.--We returned to Brown's Lagoons, and entered our camp just as
our companions were sitting down to their Christmas dinner of suet
pudding and stewed cockatoos. The day was cloudy and sultry; we had had a
heavy thunder-storm on Christmas eve.
Dec. 26.--During the night, scud passed from the east; in the morning we
had some heavy showers without wind; it cleared up at ten o'clock, and we
took advantage of four hours fair weather to travel on. We again passed
the huts of the natives, and encamped about seven miles farther down the
creek. We were, however, scarcely housed, when heavy showers of rain
began to fall, and rendered the soil, which was a stiff loam, heavy and
boggy.
Dec. 27.--Though we had hobbled our horses with straps and stirrup
leathers, they had strayed, during the night, to the more open country,
where they separated from each other in search of food; and it was not
until after three hours search that Charley found the greater part of
them. We had, however, watched the bullocks during the night, and were
therefore enabled to proceed; which we did as far as the fine sheet of
water before mentioned, when Charley again went in search of the missing
horses, with which he returned after some time.
The showers continued until about 10 o'clock last night; at 3 A. M. the
sky became clear, and continued so through the morning, except an
occasional cloud from the eastward.
Mr. Calvert found a Bauhinia in blossom; which was not only different
from the Bauhinia found afterwards at Comet River, but also from that of
the Mitchell. Mr. Gilbert found a new species of sleeping lizard, with
four lighter stripes on the dark brown ground along the back, and with
dark spots on the sides. Mr. Roper shot some ducks, and I found a species
of Ancylus; besides the species of Limnaea and Paludina, which we had
previously met with.
Dec. 28.--We travelled over the Box-tree flat, until we reached the open
basaltic ridges mentioned on the 23rd December, and kept along their
base. The creek, which had disappeared on the flat, here again formed a
large deep channel, lined with Melaleucas. Hollows existed along the
hills, and water-holes ran in lines parallel to the creek; all now quite
dry; a scrubby forest land alternated with open flats and Bricklow
thickets. Water was very scarce; and having encamped my party, I started
immediately to reconnoitre the country. I followed the creek to the
northward, and found it lined by scrub; but the belt along its west side
was narrow, and beyond it, a fine open undulating country was observed
extending far to the south-west and west, in which direction the loom of
distant ranges was seen. These plains, which had some patches of open
forest land, were, at the request of my companion, Mr. Calvert, named
"Albinia Downs." To the north-west, the mountain with the hummock lay
close before us, throwing out subordinate spurs to the westward. In
riding to the most northerly end of it, I fell in with a small
water-course, which led me to a large creek coming from the south-west
and west-south-west, with fine Casuarinas fringing its banks and forming
a dark tortuous line amongst the light green foliage of the trees on the
neighbouring flats. About six miles lower down, it was joined by the
scrub creek on which we were encamped.
The sandy bed of the creek was entirely dry, and we must have encamped
without water after a long and fatiguing ride, had not a heavy
thunder-shower supplied us; we caught the rain in our pannikins as it
dropt from our extended blankets.
The thunder-storm had passed, and the sun had set, when Brown, my
blackfellow, suddenly threw back the blanket under which we sat, and
pointed out to me a fine comet in a small clear spot of the western sky.
I afterwards learned that this comet had been observed as early as the
1st December; but our constant travelling in level forest land had
prevented us from seeing it before. The creek received the appropriate
name of "Comet Creek."
Dec. 29.--Following the creek down, we found water in chains of ponds,
and watercourses coming from a belt of scrub occupying the ground between
the creek and the mountains. Fine, though narrow, but well-grassed flats
extended along Comet Creek. We observed growing on the creek, the dwarf
Koorajong (Grewia), a small rough-leaved fig tree, a species of Tribulus,
and the native Portulaca. The latter afforded us an excellent salad; but
was much more acid than I had found it in other parts of the country,
where I had occasionally tasted it. The native melon of the Darling Downs
and of the Gwyder, grew here also. Of animals, we saw several kangaroos,
emus, native companions, and wallabies.
During our return to the camp, a hot wind blew from the south-west across
Albinia Downs: the great extent of which sufficiently accounted for the
high temperature. The only thermometer I had was unfortunately broken
shortly after we started; this loss was severely felt by me throughout
the journey, as we had no means of ascertaining the exact temperature. I
made the latitude of our camp at Scrub Creek to be 24 degrees 25 minutes
42 seconds.
Dec. 30.--We travelled about seven miles to the north-east, crossed Comet
Creek, and encamped at some water-holes, in a small creek coming out of
the scrub below the range.
Our sportsmen gave chase to ten emus and a kangaroo on Albinia Downs: but
the rottenness of the ground prevented their capture: rather tantalizing
to hungry stomachs! I examined the basaltic rock on several spots, and
found that it contained numerous crystals of Peridot. The sand in the bed
of the river contains very minute particles of igneous rock. The slopes
of the range of Comet Creek are composed of rich black soil, in some
places without trees, in others openly timbered. Stones of a light
coloured rock, with crystals of augite, pebbles of sandstone, of
conglomerate, and of quartz, are scattered over the ground, or imbedded
in the loamy beds of the water-courses. The belt of scrub at the foot of
the slopes runs out in narrow strips towards the river, and these are
separated by box-tree thickets, and open box-tree flats. A pea-plant,
with ternate leaves, and fine yellow blossoms, was found near our camp:
Portulaca was very abundant. The bronze-winged pigeon lived here on the
red fruit of Rhagodia, and the black berries of a species of Jasmine; and
seems also to pick occasionally the seed vessel of a Ruellia, which is
very frequent on all the flats of Comet Creek.
During the night, a thunder-storm passed to the southward, but did not
reach us; at 10 o'clock we observed very vivid lightning to the westward:
the wind was from the north and north-east.
Dec. 31.--We travelled along the banks of the creek towards the
north-east, but scarcely accomplished six miles, in consequence of its
tortuous course. The water-hole which I had found when reconnoitring, was
dried up, and we were glad to find a shallow pool, of which our thirsty
cattle took immediate possession. The sand in the bed of the creek looked
moist, but no water was found, after digging to a depth of five feet. The
immediate neighbourhood of the creek was in some places open, in others
covered with a shrubby Acacia, with long glaucous, and rather fleshy
phyllodia. On both sides of the high banks are deep hollows, and chains
of ponds, surrounded with reeds; but now quite dry, and covered with the
dead shells of Limnaea, Paludina, and Unio.
Mr. Roper found an Agama, with light grey on the back, and a yellow
belly. A small Chlamy-dophorus, (Jew lizard of the Hunter) was also seen,
and is probably identical with the animal inhabiting the banks of that
river. Brown accompanied me to reconnoitre the country; and we had
scarcely travelled two miles along the creek, when my attention was
attracted by the remains of a hut, consisting of a ridge pole, and two
forked stakes, about six feet high, both having been cut with a sharp
iron tomahawk. Neither of us doubted that this was the work of a white
man, probably a runaway from the settlement at Moreton Bay. A few miles
farther we came to an anabranch of the creek, which turned considerably
to the westward. I followed it, and found a shallow watercourse that came
out of the scrub, which I also examined in search of water. It led me to
another deep channel within the scrub, which looked unusually green, and
contained some very large water-holes; but there was no water in them.
Turning round one of its bends, we saw a column of thick smoke rising
from its left bank, near a fine pool of water. It was evident that a camp
of natives was before us; we rode cautiously up to the water, near which
we saw their numerous tracks, and then stopped to look around, but
without dismounting. We were, however, very soon discovered by one of
them, who, after staring at us for a moment, uttered a cry, resembling
the word "whitefellow," "whitefellow," and ran off, followed by the whole
party. We then rode up to the camp, and found their dinner ready,
consisting of two eggs of the brush turkey, roasted opossums, bandicoots,
and iguanas. In their "dillis," (small baskets) were several roots or
tubers of an oblong form, about an inch in length, and half an inch
broad, of a sweet taste, and of an agreeable flavour, even when uncooked;
there were also balls of pipe-clay to ornament their persons for
corroborris. Good opossum cloaks, kangaroo nets, and dillis neatly worked
of koorajong bark, were strewed about; there were also some spears, made
of the Bricklow Acacia: all were forgotten in the suddenness of their
retreat. I could not resist the temptation of tasting one of the eggs,
which was excellent; but, as they seemed to have trusted to our
generosity, I left every thing in its place, and departed. Brown thought
that one of them looked like a half-caste, and, as they had called us, as
far as we understood, "whitefellows," I felt confirmed in my supposition,
either that a white man was with them, or had lived among them very
recently. I returned to the creek, in order to find another water-hole
with water; but did not succeed, and had to encamp without it. During the
night we heard the noise of a frog, "brrr, brrr;" probably a new species,
for we had never heard that croak before. It seemed, however, to frighten
Brown, who, like all blackfellows, is very timid after night-fall.
Yesterday we met with a new leguminous shrub. It belongs to the section
Cassia, and has a long pinnate leaf, the leaflets an inch long, and half
an inch broad. Its pods were about a foot long, half an inch broad; and
every seed was surrounded by a fleshy spongy tissue, which, when dry,
gave to the pod a slightly articulate appearance. The seeds, when young,
had an agreeable taste, and the tissue, when dry, was pleasantly
acidulous, and was eaten by some of my companions without any ill effect,
whilst others, with myself, were severely purged. To day I found the same
plant in form of a tree, about thirty feet high, with a short stem, and
long spreading shady branches.