DIFFERENCE OF SOIL AS TO MOISTURE--PHILLIPS'S MOUNTAIN--ALLOWANCE OF
FLOUR REDUCED AGAIN--HUGHS'S CREEK--TOMBSTONE CREEK--CHARLEY AND BROWN
BECOME UNRULY--THE ISAACS--NATIVE WOMEN--COXEN'S PEAK AND RANGE--
GEOLOGICAL CHARACTER--CHARLEY REBELS AGAIN AND LEAVES--BROWN FOLLOWS
HIM--BOTH RETURN PENITENT--VARIATIONS OF THE WEATHER--SKULL OF
NATIVE--FRIENDLY NATIVES VISIT THE CAMP.
Feb. 2.--Being much recovered, I took both Blackfellows with me, and
again passed the defile east of Roper's and Scott's Peaks, and followed
the watercourse rising from it to the northward. About two or three miles
lower down, we found water in deep rocky basins in the bed of the creek.
The rock was sandstone, fissured from south-west to north-east.
In passing the foot of the peaks, we found a species of Grewia (Dwarf
Roorajong) covered with ripe fruit; the fruit is dry, but the stringy
tissue which covers the seed, contains a slightly sweet and acidulous
substance of a very agreeable taste. The fig-tree with a rough leaf, had
plenty of fruit, but not yet ripe. Erythrina was both in blossom and in
seed.
Sending Brown back to conduct our party to the water-holes we had found,
and leaving the creek, which turned to the eastward, I continued my ride
to the northward. I passed some gentle well-grassed slopes of
narrow-leaved Ironbark and spotted gum; and also several basaltic ridges,
which head out into small plains gently sloping to the east and
north-east. They are formed of a rich black soil, and generally a shallow
creek meanders through them: sandstone ridges formed their boundary lower
down, where, at their foot, water-holes generally existed, either with a
constant supply of water, or readily filled by thunder-showers. The
basaltic ridges, as well as the plains, were covered with a fine crop of
dry grass; but the sandstone ridges were frequently scrubby. The
difference between the sandstone country and the basaltic plains and
ridges, is very striking in respect to the quantity of water they
contain: in the latter, rain is immediately absorbed by the cracked
porous soil, which requires an immense quantity of moisture before it
allows any drainage; whereas the sandstone forms steeper slopes, and does
not absorb the rain so quickly, so that the water runs down the slopes,
and collects in holes at the foot of the hills parallel to the creeks.
Scrubs are frequent round the low rises of sandstone; and, where the
country is level, and the soil loamy, the hollows are often filled with
water by the thunder-storms. The moist character of this description of
country is probably the cause of the vegetation being more dense than it
is in the rich black soil of the plains; in which latter, the seeds of
the grasses and herbs lie dormant, until the first rain falls, when they
instantly germinate and cover the plain with their rapid and luxuriant
growth, as if by enchantment; but which, from its nature, is incapable of
maintaining the growth of scrubs and trees.
Feb. 3.--The dew was heavy through the night; and, in the morning, loose
rainy clouds gathered from the east and north-east, which, however,
disappeared about eleven o'clock. Charley went back to the camp, to bring
it on, and I continued to reconnoitre to the north-west. After passing a
sandstone ridge, I came to a creek, which went to the north-west, and
which was supplied with water by the late thunder-showers. It was bounded
on both sides by sandstone ridges, whose summits were covered with scrub
and Acacia thickets; and by grassy slopes and flats bearing narrow-leaved
Ironbark and Bastard-box. This would be a most beautiful country, if it
contained a constant supply of water.
I observed on the ridges an Acacia, a small tree, from thirty to forty
feet high, and from six to nine inches in diameter, and easily
distinguished by its peculiar rough frizzled bark, similar to that of the
Casuarina found at the ranges of the Robinson. It has a dark
sweet-scented heartwood, like that of the Bricklow and the Myal and other
Acacias, which I had previously met with. The creek turned to the north
and north-east, into a plain, and joined a larger creek which came in
from the right at about south-west. Near their junction, a very
conspicuous peak was observed, with several small water-holes with water
at its foot. I then returned to the spot to which Charley had been
ordered to conduct the camp; but, as the party had not arrived, I feared
that some accident might have happened, and therefore rode towards the
water-holes from which Brown had gone back to the camp. I found the
detention caused by the absence of the horses, which had strayed to the
other side of the range.
Feb. 6.--Charley rode my horse after the missing ones, and returned with
them about one o'clock to the camp; and then we proceeded about six miles
due north, in the direction of a fine mountain of imposing character--
which I called "Phillips's Mountain," after one of my companions--and
encamped in sight of Calvert's and Scott's Peaks, the former of which
bore S. 22 degrees W., and the latter S. 7 degrees E. Our latitude was 22
degrees 43 minutes.
Acacia farnesiana grew in low shrubs along the plains, stretching its
flexible branches over the ground; Mimosa terminalis (the sensitive
plant) was very plentiful, and more erect than usual; a species of
Verbena, with grey pubescent leaf and stem, was also abundant. The night
breeze had been exceedingly strong during the last four days. At the camp
of the 4th of February my companions shot twenty-one pigeons (Geophaps
scripta), and five cockatoos; a welcome addition to our scanty meals. For
a considerable time previous, I had reduced our allowance of flour to
three pounds; but now, considering that we were still so far to the
eastward, it was, by general consent of my companions, again reduced to a
pound and a-half per diem for the six, of which a damper mixed up with
fat was made every day, as soon as we reached our encampment.
Feb. 6.--I brought my camp forward about six miles farther to the
north-by-east, to the water-holes I had found at the foot of the
sandstone ridges; and, after having settled my camp, I went with my two
Blackfellows in search of more water. About a mile and a-half north from
the camp we came to an isolated peak, which I ascended, and from its
summit enjoyed the finest view of the Peak Range I had yet seen. I
attempted to sketch it in its whole extent, and gave to its most
remarkable peaks separate names. A long flat-topped mountain I called
"Lord's Table Range," after E. Lord, Esq., of Moreton Bay; and a sharp
needle-like rock, which bore west-by-north, received the name of
"Fletcher's Awl," after Mr. John Fletcher, whose kind contribution
towards my expedition had not a little cheered me in my undertaking.
Towards the east and north-east, a flat country extended, in which the
smoke of several fires of the natives was seen, and, in the distance,
several blue ranges were distinguished. To the northward, the country was
very mountainous, and in the north-west, at a short distance, Phillips's
Mountain reared its head. Many shallow valleys, at present of an
earth-brown colour, led down from the range. A large creek--which
probably collects all the waters that we had passed on the east side of
the range, and which I descended during my ride of the 3rd
February--flows down a very conspicuous valley to the eastward. I named
this creek after--Stephens, Esq., of Darling Downs; and the peak on
which I stood after--Campbell, Esq., of the same district. Both these
gentlemen had shown the greatest hospitality to me and to my party during
our stay at the Downs, before starting on the expedition. The rock of
Campbell's Peak is domitic; at the top it is of a bluish colour and very
hard, and contains very visible, though minute, crystals of felspar.
In a hollow between the two rocky protuberances on the west side of the
hill, a noble fig-tree spread its rich dark-green shady foliage; and on
the steep slopes Erythrina was frequent. I could not help contrasting the
character of this place with the moist creeks and mountain brushes of the
Bunya Bunya country near Moreton Bay, where I had been accustomed to
observe the same plant. Proceeding to the N.N.E. we passed several creeks
or watercourses, some fine open Ironbark slopes, and a sandstone range;
and, following down a watercourse, came to a creek which seemed to
originate in Phillips's Mountain. This creek contained water; it flowed
to the south-east and east, and very probably joined Stephens's Creek. A
rather stunted rusty gum grew plentifully on the sandstone ridges;
pebbles of concretionary limestone were found in the creek, probably
carried down from the basalt of Phillips's Mountain; and a deposit of
concretionary limestone was observed in the banks of a creek, whilst
passing one of the black plains, on this side of the range. A profusion
of Calcedony, and fine specimens of Agate, were observed in many places,
along the basaltic ridges. My black companions loaded themselves with the
pretty agates, which they had never seen before, and which they evidently
considered to be very valuable; but, after a little time, the weight
became inconvenient, and they kept only a few, to strike fire with.
Feb. 7.--Having sent Brown back to guide our party to this creek, which
is about six miles N. N. E. from yesterday's camping place, in latitude
22 degrees 32 minutes 27 seconds; I continued my ride with Charley to the
north-west. We ascended a high sandstone range, and travelled for some
miles along its flat summit. The country was very broken, but openly
timbered, and occasionally of a most beautiful character; but frequently
interrupted by patches of miserable scrub. Having in our progress brought
Mount Phillips to bear south-west and south, we entered a fine open
Bastard-box country, with slight undulations, and which seemed to extend
to Peak Range. On the sandstone range I found Balfouria saligna R. Br., a
shrub or small tree, with long linear-lanceolate leaves, and rather
drooping branches, covered with very fragrant yellow blossoms; its
seed-vessels varied from three to six inches in length, were terete,
tapering to a point, and filled with silky seeds. The same little tree
was subsequently observed, growing round the head of the gulf of
Carpentaria, and also at Arnheim's Land. Another shrub (Gardenia?), with
opposite, oval, rather rough leaves, and large white or light yellow
blossoms, like those of the Jasmine in shape and fragrance, had been
observed once before, but was very common between this latitude and Port
Essington; at which place a species of Guettarda, resembling it very
much, but with larger flowers, grows along the beach.
The last two days the mornings were clear; during the afternoon of each
day cirrhi formed, which settling down, became confluent, and united into
a dark cloud which promised rain, but dispersed towards evening; and the
sun set in a cloudless horizon: in the morning, a northerly breeze is
generally stirring, which renders that part of the day more agreeable for
travelling.
Feb. 8.--I returned last night to the creek, from which I had sent Brown
back, and found my companions encamped on a very fine water-hole. This
morning we travelled to the water-holes I had seen about seven miles in
advance to the north-west, and about five or six miles due north from
Phillips's Mountain. After our mid-day meal, I set out again with the two
Blackfellows, not only with a view to find water for the next stage, but
to endeavour to make the table land again, and thence to pursue a more
westerly course.
A great number of sandstone ranges, several of them very steep, and of
considerable elevation, stretch parallel to each other from west to east,
forming spurs from a higher mountain range to the westward, which is
probably connected with Peak Range. It is composed of basalt, and partly
covered with dense scrub, and in other parts openly timbered; where the
scrub prevailed, the soil was shallow and rocky, but the soil of the open
forest was deeper, and of the character of that of the plains. The deep
gullies were all without water, but occasionally filled with patches of
rich brush. Many creeks went down between the sandstone ranges: and they
were generally bounded on both sides by fine well-grassed, narrow-leaved
Ironbark slopes, and sweet herbage, on which numerous emus and kangaroos
were feeding. In one of the glens among the ridges I observed a new
gum-tree, with a leaf like that of the trembling poplar of Europe, and of
a bright green colour, which rendered the appearance of the country
exceedingly cheerful. It is a middle-sized tree, of irregular growth,
with white bark; but the wood, not being free grained, was unfit for
splitting. Lower down, water was found, without exception, in all the
creeks, and was most abundant at the edge of the level country to the
eastward, where the ridges disappear, by more or less gradual slopes.
Travelling across these sandstone ranges, with their thick vegetation,
and deep gullies and valleys, was exceedingly difficult. The bullocks
upset their loads frequently in clambering up and down the rocky slopes,
and our progress was consequently very slow. This induced me to give up
the westerly course, and to look for a better-travelling country to the
eastward; supposing, at the same time, that water would be found more
abundant, as we approached the sea-coast.
I, therefore, returned to the camp, and on the 10th February, I travelled
about six miles N. N. E., over several ranges and creeks, and came to a
creek well supplied with water. On the following day, the 11th February,
I travelled down this creek, and reached a flat country of great extent,
lightly timbered with Ironbark, Bastard-box, and Poplar-gum; but the
water disappeared in the sandy bed of the creek, which had assumed a very
winding course, and we had to encamp on a shallow pool left on the rocks,
which, for a short distance, formed again the bed of the creek. Our
latitude was 22 degrees 23 minutes, about thirteen miles E. N. E. from
our camp of the 8th February.
Feb. 12.--We continued travelling along the creek, and halted at very
fine water-holes, within some Bricklow scrub, which here made its
appearance again. The stage did not exceed six miles east; but I did not
venture to proceed farther until I had examined the country in advance,
which did not look very promising. I named this creek "Hughs's Creek,"
after--Hughs, Esq., of Darling Downs.
The grass-tree grew very abundantly on the rocky sandstone ranges; and
the Grevillea (G. ceratophylla, R. Br.?) with pinnatifid leaves, was not
less common: on the upper part of Hughs's Creek, we first met with the
drooping tea-tree (Melaleuca Leucodendron?), which we found afterwards at
every creek and river; it was generally the companion of water, and its
drooping foliage afforded an agreeable shade, and was also very
ornamental. The slopes towards the flat country were sandy and rotten;
but there were some fine hollows, with rich green grass, which very
probably formed lagoons during the wet season. The whole country was very
similar to that of Zamia Creek: it had the same extensive flats, the same
geological features, the same vegetation, the same direction of the creek
to the east and north-east. Just before the creek left the hills, it was
joined by another; and, at their junction, sandstone cropped out, which
was divided by regular fissures into very large rectangular blocks. These
fissures had been widened by the action of water, which made them
resemble a range of large tombstones, the singular appearance of which
induced me to call this, which joins Hughs's Creek, "Tombstone Creek."
This formation was very remarkable, and occupied a very considerable
space. The strata of the sandstone dip towards the east and north-east
off Peak Range; but, in other localities, I observed a dip towards the
range.
A circumstance now occurred, which, as it seemed to augur badly for the
welfare of our expedition, gave me much concern and anxiety. My two
blacks, the companions of my reconnoitring excursions, began to show
evident signs of discontent, and to evince a spirit of disobedience
which, if not checked, might prove fatal to our safety. During my recent
reconnoitre, they both left me in a most intricate country, and took the
provisions with them. They had become impatient from having been without
water at night; and, in the morning, whilst I was following the ranges,
they took the opportunity of diverging from the track, and descended into
the gullies; so that I was reluctantly compelled to return to the camp.
My companions were highly alarmed at the behaviour of the sable
gentlemen, believing that they had concerted a plan to decamp, and leave
us to our fate. I knew, however, the cowardly disposition of the
Australian native too well; and felt quite sure that they would return
after they had procured honey and opossums, in search of which they had
deserted me. To impress their minds, therefore, with the conviction that
we were independent of their services, the party started the next day as
usual, and, on reaching a beautiful valley, three emus were seen on a
green sunny slope, strutting about with their stately gait: Mr. Roper
immediately laid the dog on, and gave chase. After a short time, the
horse returned without its rider and saddle, and caused us a momentary
alarm lest some accident had happened to our companion: shortly
afterwards, however, we were made glad, by seeing him walking towards us,
with a young emu thrown over his shoulder. He had leaped from his horse
upon nearing the emus, had shot one in the head, and had taken a young
one from the dog, which immediately pursued the third, an old one; but
his horse escaped, which compelled him to return on foot, with the
smallest of the birds. Messrs. Gilbert and Calvert went in search of the
dog, and were fortunate enough to find him with the emu which he had
killed. We were rejoiced at our success, and lost no time in preparing a
repast of fried emu; and, whilst we were thus employed, the two
Blackfellows, having filled their bellies and had their sulk out, made
their appearance, both considerably alarmed as to the consequences of
their ill-behaviour. Charley brought about a pint of honey as a
peace-offering; and both were unusually obliging and attentive to my
companions. At this time, I was suffering much pain from a severe kick
from one of the bullocks, and felt unequal to inflict any punishment, and
therefore allowed the matter to pass with an admonition only. But events
subsequently proved that I was wrong, and that a decided and severe
punishment would have saved me great trouble. I was, however, glad to
find that their conduct met with the general indignation of my
companions.
The Blackfellows told us, that they had caught a ring-tailed opossum, and
had seen a black kangaroo with a white point at the end of the tail.
Brown brought the fruit of a tree, which, according to his account, had
the simple pinnate-leaf of the red cedar (Credela) with a dark
purple-coloured fruit half an inch long, and one inch in diameter, with a
thin astringent pericarp: the stony seed-vessel consisted of many
carpels, which, if I remember rightly, were monosperme. It belongs
probably to an Ebenaceous tree.
The wood-duck (Bernicla jubata) abounded on the larger water-holes which
we passed; and the swamp-pheasant (Centropus Phasianus, GOULD) was heard
several times among the trees surrounding the grassy hollows.
The smoke of extensive bush-fires was observed under Lord's Table Range,
and along the western and south-western ranges. As we approached the
place of our encampment of the 12th February, some Blackfellows were
bathing in the water-hole, but fled as soon as we made our appearance.
The night of the 8th February was cloudy, with a little rain, which
continued to the morning of the 9th, but cleared up at noon, and the
weather became very hot. During the afternoon, thunder-storms passed to
the north and north-west, and also to the east and east-south-east. On
the 10th, thunder-storms again surrounded us on all sides, and from one,
which broke over us in the night, a heavy shower fell. The night of the
11th was exceedingly cold; and the night breeze was observed to be less
regular than formerly.
We were here very much troubled with a small black ant; infesting our
provisions during the day and running over our persons, and biting us
severely at night. A large yellow hornet with two black bands over the
abdomen, was seen, humming about the water-holes. A crow was shot and
roasted, and found to be exceedingly tender, which we considered to be a
great discovery; and lost no opportunity of shooting as many as we could,
in order to lessen the consumption of our dried meat. We again enjoyed
some fine messes of Portulaca.
Feb. 12.--I went, accompanied by Mr. Roper and Charley, in a due north
direction to reconnoitre the country. The flat continued for about eight
miles, and then changed into slight undulations. Considerable tracts were
covered with the Poplar-gum; and broad belts of Bricklow descended from
the hills towards the east. In the scrub; Fusanus was observed in fruit,
and the Stenochilus and the white Vitex in blossom; from the latter the
native bee extracts a most delicious honey. A small tree, with stiff
alternate leaves scarcely an inch long, was covered with red fruit of the
form of an acorn, and about half an inch long, having a sweet pericarp
with two compressed grain-like seeds, which had the horny albumen of the
coffee, and were exceedingly bitter. The pigeons, crows, and cockatoos,
fed upon them, we also ate a great number of them; but the edible portion
of each seed was very small. It is a remarkable fact that trees, which we
had found in full blossom or in fruit in October and November, were again
observed to be in blossom and fruit in February.
We had to encamp at night without water; and although the clouds gathered
in the afternoon of a very hot day, yet no thunder-storm came to our
relief. The night breeze, which was in all probability the sea-breeze,
set in about ten minutes to six.
Feb. 13.--The morning was very cloudy. I continued my course to the
northward, and, coming to a watercourse, followed it down in the hopes of
finding water: it led us to the broad deep channel of a river, but now
entirely dry. The bed was very sandy, with reeds and an abundance of
small Casuarinas. Large flooded-gums and Casuarinas grew at intervals
along its banks, and fine openly timbered flats extended on both sides
towards belts of scrub. The river came from the north and north-west,
skirting some fine ranges, which were about three miles from its left
bank. As the river promised to be one of some importance I called it the
"Isaacs," in acknowledgment of the kind support we received from F.
Isaacs, Esq. of Darling Downs.
When we were approaching the river, the well-known sound of a tomahawk
was heard, and, guided by the noise, we soon came in sight of three black
women, two of whom were busily occupied in digging for roots, whilst the
other, perched on the top of a high flooded-gum tree, was chopping out
either an opossum or a bees' nest. They no sooner perceived us than they
began to scream most dreadfully, swinging their sticks, and beating the
trees, as if we were wild beasts, which they wished to frighten away. We
made every possible sign of peace, but in vain: the two root-diggers
immediately ran off, and the lady in the tree refused to descend. When I
asked for water, in the language of the natives of the country we had
left--"Yarrai" "yarrai," she pointed down the river, and answered "yarrai
ya;" and we found afterwards that her information was correct. Upon
reaching the tree we found an infant swaddled in layers of tea-tree bark,
lying on the ground; and three or four large yams. A great number of
natives, men, boys, and children, who had been attracted by the screams
of their companions, now came running towards us; but on our putting our
horses into a sharp canter, and riding towards them, they retired into
the scrub. The yams proved to be the tubers of a vine with blue berries;
both tubers and berries had the same pungent taste, but the former
contained a watery juice, which was most welcome to our parched mouths. A
similar tuber was found near Mount Stewart on the 18th January. We then
proceeded down the river; but not succeeding in our search for water,
returned to our camp, which was about fifteen miles distant. As soon as I
arrived, I sent Mr. Gilbert and Brown down Hughs's Creek, to examine the
country near its junction.
Very thick clouds came from the westward, from which a few drops of rain
fell: thunder-storms were forming to the north-east and also to the west,
but none reached us: the night was very cloudy and warm: the scud flying
from the north-east.
Feb. 14.--After sunrise the weather cleared up again. All hands were now
employed in shooting crows; which, with some cockatoos, and a small scrub
wallabi, gave us several good messes.
Mr. Gilbert and Brown had, on their excursion, found a rushy lagoon on
the left bank of the Isaacs, at a short half-mile from its junction with
Hughs's Creek. Here they encamped; and, about 10 o'clock at night, the
loud voices of Blackfellows travelling down the river were heard; these
also encamped at some small water-holes, not very distant from Mr.
Gilbert, of whose presence they were not aware. Mr. Gilbert kept the
horses tied up in case of any hostility; but was not molested. The blacks
continued their loud conversations during the greater part of the night;
and Mr. Gilbert departed very early in the morning without being seen by
them. He continued to follow the river further down, and found that four
large creeks joined it from the northward. Another creek also joined it
from the southward; as subsequently observed by Mr. Roper. Beyond these
creeks, several lagoons or swamps were seen covered with ducks, and
several other aquatic birds, and, amongst them, the straw-coloured Ibis.
Feb. 15.--We travelled down to the above-mentioned lagoon, which was
about ten miles east by north from our camp; its latitude, was by
calculation, about 22 degrees 20 or 21; for several circumstances had
prevented me from taking observations. As the river turned to the
eastward, I determined to trace it up to its head; and set out with Mr.
Gilbert and Brown to examine the country around the range which I had
observed some days before and named "Coxen's Peak and Range," in honour
of Mr. Coxen of Darling Downs. We passed the night at a small pool, but
were not successful in discovering water in any of the numerous
watercourses and creeks, which come down from Coxen's Range, or out of
the belt of scrub which intervened between the range and the river. A
loose variegated clayey sandstone, with many irregular holes; cropped out
in the beds of the creek. Coxen's Peak and Range were found to be
composed of horizontal strata of excellent sandstone, rising by steep
terraces, on the western side, but sloping gently down to the east; its
summit is covered with scrub, but its eastern slope with groves of
grass-trees. The view from the top of Coxen's Peak was very extensive:
towards the south-west and west, Peak Range was seen extending from
Scott's and Roper's Peaks to Fletcher's Awl; and, beyond the last, other
mountains were seen, several of which had flat tops. Mount Phillips
seemed about thirty or forty miles distant; and a very indistinct blue
hill was seen to the W.N.W. To the northward, ranges rose beyond ranges,
and to the eastward, the country seemed to be flat, to a great extent,
and bounded by distant mountains. To the southward, the eye wandered over
an unbroken line of horizon, with the exception of one blue distant
elevation: this immense flat was one uninterrupted mass of forest without
the slightest break. Narrow bands of scrub approached the river from the
westward, and separated tracts of fine open forest country, amongst which
patches of the Poplar-gum forest were readily distinguished by the
brightness of their verdure. A river seemed to come from the south-west;
the Isaacs came from the north-west, and was joined by a large creek from
the northward. There was no smoke, no sign of water, no sign of the
neighbourhood of the sea coast;--but all was one immense sea of forest
and scrub.
The great outlines of the geology of this interesting country were seen
at one glance. Along the eastern edge of a basaltic table land, rose a
series of domitic cones, stretching from south-east to north-west,
parallel to the coast. The whole extent of country between the range and
the coast, seemed to be of sandstone, either horizontally stratified, or
dipping off the range; with the exception of some local disturbances,
where basalt had broken through it. Those isolated ranges, such as
Coxen's Range--the abruptness of which seemed to indicate igneous
origin--were entirely of sandstone. The various Porphyries, and Diorites,
and Granitic, and Sienitic rocks, which characterize large districts
along the eastern coast of Australia, were missing; not a pebble, except
of sandstone, was found in the numerous creeks and watercourses. Pieces
of silicified wood were frequent in the bed of the Isaacs.
The nature of the soil was easily distinguished by its vegetation: the
Bastard box, and Poplar gum grew on a stiff clay; the narrow-leaved
Ironbark, the Bloodwood, and the Moreton Bay ash on a lighter sandy soil,
which was frequently rotten and undermined with numerous holes of the
funnel ant. Noble trees of the flooded-gum grew along the banks of the
creeks, and around the hollows, depending rather upon moisture, than upon
the nature of the soil. Fine Casuarinas were occasionally met with along
the creeks; and the forest oak (Casuarina torulosa), together with
rusty-gum, were frequent on the sandy ridges.
One should have expected that the prevailing winds during the day, would
have been from the south-east, corresponding to the south-east trade
winds; but, throughout the whole journey from Moreton Bay to the Isaacs,
I experienced, with but few exceptions, during the day, a cooling breeze
from the north and north-east. The thunder-storms came principally from
the south-west, west, and north-west; but generally showed an inclination
to veer round to the northward.
From Coxen's Range I returned to the river, and soon reached the place
where I had met the Black-fellows. In passing out of the belt of scrub
into the openly timbered grassy flat of the river, Brown descried a
kangaroo sitting in the shade of a large Bastard-box tree; it seemed to
be so oppressed by the heat of the noonday sun as to take little notice
of us, so that Brown was enabled to approach sufficiently near to shoot
it. It proved to be a fine doe, with a young one; we cooked the latter
for our dinner, and I sent Brown to the camp with the dam, where my
companions most joyfully received him; for all our dried meat was by this
time consumed, and all they had for supper and breakfast, were a
straw-coloured ibis, a duck, and a crow. As Mr. Gilbert and myself were
following the course of the river, we saw numerous tracks of
Blackfellows, of native dogs, of emus, and kangaroos, in its sandy bed;
and, when within a short distance of the place where I had seen the black
women, loud cries of cockatoos attracted our notice; and, on going in
their direction, we came to a water-hole in the bed of the river, at its
junction with a large oak tree creek coming from the northward. This
water-hole is in latitude 22 degrees 11 minutes; the natives had fenced
it round with branches to prevent the sand from filling it up, and had
dug small wells near it, evidently to obtain a purer and cooler water, by
filtration through the sand. Pigeons (Geophapsscripta, GOULD.) had formed
a beaten track to its edge; and, the next morning, whilst enjoying our
breakfast under the shade of a gigantic flooded-gum tree, we were highly
amused to see a flight of fifty or more partridge pigeons tripping along
the sandy bed of the river, and descending to the water's edge, and
returning after quenching their thirst, quite unconscious of the
dangerous proximity of hungry ornithophagi. The cockatoos, however,
observed us, and seemed to dispute our occupation of their waters, by
hovering above the tops of the highest trees, and making the air resound
with their screams; whilst numerous crows, attracted by a neighbouring
bush fire, watched us more familiarly, and the dollar bird passed with
its arrow-like flight from shade to shade.
We continued our ride six miles higher up the river, without finding any
water, with the exception of some wells made by the natives, and which
were generally observed where watercourses or creeks joined the river. In
these places, moisture was generally indicated by a dense patch of green
reeds. The bush fire, which was raging along the left bank of the river
on which we were encamped for the night, fanned by the sea breeze, which
set in a little after six o'clock, approached very near to our tent, but
died away with the breeze; and the temperature cooled down, although no
dew was falling. The fire, which was smouldering here and there along the
steep banks of the river, was quickened up again by the morning breeze.
We observed a great number of very large dead shells of Limnaea and
Paludina, in the dry water-holes and melon-holes along the scrub; some of
them not even bleached; but every thing seemed to indicate this to be a
more than usually dry season.
In the morning we returned to the camp. As I had not discovered a more
convenient spot for killing another bullock, I decided upon stopping at
the rushy lagoon, until we had provided ourselves with a fresh stock of
dried beef. Accordingly, on the 17th February, we killed Mr. Gilbert's
bullock, which turned out a fine heavy beast, and gave us a large supply
of fat meat and suet. We had formerly been under the erroneous impression
that fat meat would not dry and keep; and, consequently, had carefully
separated the fat from the meat. Some chance pieces, however, had shown
us, that it not only dried and kept well, but that it was much finer than
the lean meat. We therefore cut up the fat in slices, like the lean; and
it was found not only to remain sweet, but to improve with age. The only
inconvenience we had experienced in this process, was a longer detention;
and we had to remain four days, (to the 21st February) before the
provision was fit for packing. On the 19th, immediately after breakfast,
whilst we were busily employed in greasing our saddles and straps--a very
necessary operation on a journey like ours, where every thing is exposed
to the dust, and a scorching sun--Charley left the camp, and did not
return before the afternoon. He had frequently acted thus of late; and it
was one of the standing complaints against him, that he was opossum and
honey hunting, whilst we were kept waiting for our horses and cattle. As
I was determined not to suffer this, after his late misbehaviour, I
reprimanded him, and told him that I would not allow him any food, should
he again be guilty of such conduct. Upon this, he burst out into the most
violent and abusive language, and threatened "to stop my jaw," as he
expressed himself. Finding it, therefore, necessary to exercise my
authority, I approached him to show him out of the camp, when the fellow
gave me a violent blow on the face, which severely injured me, displacing
two of my lower teeth; upon which my companions interfered, and
manifested a determination to support me, in case he should refuse to
quit us; which I compelled him to do. When he was going away, Brown told
him, in a very consoling manner, that he would come by and bye and sleep
with him. I was, however, determined that no one within the camp should
have any communication with him; and therefore told Brown, that he had
either to stop with me entirely, or with Charley. He answered that he
could not quarrel with him; that he would sleep with him, but return
every morning; and, when I replied that, in such a case, he should never
return, he said that he would stop altogether with Charley, and walked
off. If I had punished these fellows for their late misconduct, I should
have had no occasion for doing so now: but full of their own importance,
they interpreted my forbearance, by fancying that I could not proceed
without them.
Previous to this occurrence, Charley had, during my absence from the
camp, had an interview with the natives, who made him several presents,
among which were two fine calabashes which they had cleaned and used for
carrying water; the larger one was pear-shaped, about a foot in length,
and nine inches in diameter in the broadest part, and held about three
pints. The natives patted his head, and hair, and clothing; but they
retired immediately, when he afterwards returned to them, accompanied by
Mr. Calvert on horseback.
We started, on the 21st February, from our killing camp, and travelled a
long stage; the day was very hot, and the heat of the rotten ground was
intense. Our little terrier, which had so well borne former fatigues,
died; and our remaining kangaroo-dog was only saved by Mr. Calvert's
carrying him on his horse. It was a day well calculated to impress on the
Blackfellows the difference between riding and walking, between finding a
meal ready after a fatiguing journey, and looking out for food for
themselves. Hearing Brown's cooee as we were travelling along, Mr. Roper
stopped behind until Brown came up to him, and expressed his desire to
rejoin my party, as he had had quite enough of his banishment and bush
life; and, before sunset, he arrived quite exhausted at our
camping-place, and begged me to pardon him, which I did, under the former
condition, that he was to have no farther communication with Charley, to
which he most willingly assented.
Feb. 22.--On a ride with Mr. Gilbert up the river, we observed several
large reedy holes in its bed, in which the Blackfellows had dug wells;
they were still moist, and swarms of hornets were buzzing about them.
About eight miles north-west from the junction of North Creek with the
river, a large flight of cockatoos again invited us to some good
water-holes extending along a scrubby rise. Large Bastard-box flats lie
between North Creek and the river. About four miles from the camp, the
country rises to the left of the river, and ranges and isolated hills are
visible, which are probably surrounded by plains. Wherever I had an
opportunity of examining the rocks, I found sandstone; flint pebbles and
fossil-wood are in the scrub and on the melon-hole flats.
At night, on my return, I had to pass Charley's camp, which was about a
hundred yards from ours. He called after me, and, when I stopped, he came
up to me, and began to plead his cause and beg my pardon; he excused his
sulkiness and his bad behaviour by his temperament and some
misunderstanding; and tried to look most miserable and wretched, in order
to excite my compassion. My companions had seen him sitting alone under
his tree, during almost the whole day, beating his bommerangs which he
had received from the natives. I pitied him, and, after some consultation
with my companions, allowed him to rejoin us; but upon the condition that
he should give up his tomahawk, to which he most joyfully consented, and
promised for the future to do every thing I should require. His spirit
was evidently broken, and I should probably never have had to complain of
him again, had no other agent acted upon him.
Feb. 23.--I moved on to the water-holes, which I had found the day
before, and encamped in the shade of a Fusanus. The latitude was observed
to be 22 degrees 6 minutes 53 seconds.
Feb. 24.--Mr. Gilbert and Brown accompanied me this morning upon an
excursion. At about a mile and a-half from the camp, a large creek,
apparently from the southward, joined the river, and water was found in a
scrub creek four miles from the camp, also in wells made by the natives
in the bed of the river; and, at about eight miles from the camp, we came
upon some fine water-holes along the scrub. Here the birds were very
numerous and various; large flights of the blue-mountain and
crimson-winged parrots were seen; Mr. Gilbert observed the female of the
Regent-bird, and several other interesting birds, which made him regret
to leave this spot so favourable to his pursuit. He returned, however, to
bring forward our camp to the place, whilst I continued my ride,
accompanied by Brown. Several creeks joined the river, but water was
nowhere to be found. The high grass was old and dry, or else so entirely
burnt as not to leave the slightest sign of vegetation. For several miles
the whole forest was singed by a fire which had swept through it; and the
whole country looked hopelessly wretched. Brown had taken the precaution
to fill Charley's large calabash with water, so that we were enabled to
make a refreshing cup of tea in the most scorching heat of the day.
Towards sunset we heard, to our great joy, the noisy jabbering of
natives, which promised the neighbourhood of water. I dismounted and
cooeed; they answered; but when they saw me, they took such of their
things as they could and crossed to the opposite side of the river in
great hurry and confusion. When Brown, who had stopped behind, came up to
me, I took the calabash and put it to my mouth, and asked for "yarrai,
yarrai." They answered, but their intended information was lost to me;
and they were unwilling to approach us. Their camp was in the bed of the
river amongst some small Casuarinas. Their numerous tracks, however, soon
led me to two wells, surrounded by high reeds, where we quenched our
thirst. My horse was very much frightened by the great number of hornets
buzzing about the water. After filling our calabash, we returned to the
camp of the natives, and examined the things which they had left behind;
we found a shield, four calabashes, of which I took two, leaving in their
place a bright penny, for payment; there were also, a small water-tight
basket containing acacia-gum; some unravelled fibrous bark, used for
straining honey; a fire-stick, neatly tied up in tea-tree bark; a
kangaroo net; and two tomahawks, one of stone, and a smaller one of iron,
made apparently of the head of a hammer: a proof that they had had some
communication with the sea-coast. The natives had disappeared. The
thunder was pealing above us, and a rush of wind surprised us before we
were half-a-mile from the camp, and we had barely time to throw our
blanket over some sticks and creep under it, when the rain came down in
torrents. The storm came from the west; another was visible in the east;
and lightning seemed to be everywhere. When the rain ceased, we contrived
to make a fire and boil a pot of tea, and warmed up a mess of
gelatine-soup. At eight o'clock the moon rose, and, as the weather had
cleared, I decided upon returning to the camp, in order to hasten over
this dreary country while the rain-water lasted. The frogs were most
lustily croaking in the water-holes which I had passed, a few hours
before, perfectly dry and never were their hoarse voices more pleasing to
me. But the thunder-storm had been so very partial, that scarcely a drop
had fallen at a distance of three miles. This is another instance of the
singularly partial distribution of water, which I had before noticed at
Comet Creek. We arrived at the camp about one o'clock a.m.; and, in the
morning of the 25th February, I led my party to the water-holes, which a
kind Providence seemed to have filled for the purpose of helping us over
that thirsty and dreary land. Our bullocks suffered severely from the
heat; our fat-meat melted; our fat-bags poured out their contents; and
every thing seemed to dissolve under the influence of a powerful sun.
The weather in this region may be thus described: at sunrise some clouds
collect in the east, but clear off during the first hours of the morning,
with northerly, north-easterly, and easterly breezes; between ten and
three o'clock the most scorching heat prevails, interrupted only by
occasional puffs of cool air; about two o'clock P.M. heavy clouds form in
all directions, increase in volume, unite in dark masses in the east and
west, and, about five o'clock in the afternoon, the thunder-storm bursts;
the gust of wind is very violent, and the rain sometimes slight, and at
other times tremendous, but of short duration; and at nine o'clock the
whole sky is clear again.
In the hollows along the Isaacs, we found a new species of grass from six
to eight feet high, forming large tufts, in appearance like the oat-grass
(Anthistiria) of the Liverpool Plains and Darling Downs; it has very long
brown twisted beards, but is easily distinguished from Anthistiria by its
simple ear; its young stem is very sweet, and much relished both by
horses and cattle.
Feb. 26.--I set out reconnoitring with Mr. Gilbert and Charley. We found
that the effects of the thunder-storm of the 24th extended very little to
the north and north-west, having passed over from west to east. From time
to time we crossed low ridges covered with scrub, and cut through by deep
gullies, stretching towards the river, which became narrower and very
tortuous in its course; its line of flooded-gum trees, however, became
more dense. Within the reedy bed of the river, not quite five miles from
the camp, we found wells of the natives, not a foot deep, but amply
supplied with water, and, at four miles farther, we came to a water-hole,
in a small creek, which had been supplied by the late rains; we also
passed several fine scrub creeks, but they were dry. About ten miles from
the wells another deep scrub creek was found, on the right hand of the
river, full of water. Its bed was overgrown with reeds, and full of
pebbles of concretions of limestone, and curious trunks of fossil trees,
and on its banks a loose sandstone cropped out. Here we found the skull
of a native, the first time that we had seen the remains of a human body
during our journey. Near the scrub, and probably in old camping places of
the natives, we frequently saw the bones of kangaroos and emus. I mention
this fact in reference to the observations of American travellers, who
very rarely met with bones in the wilderness; and to remark, that the
climate of Australia is so very dry as to prevent decomposition, and that
rapacious animals are few in number--the native dog probably finding a
sufficiency of living food.
On the 25th there were thunder-storms, but they did not reach us. The
night was cloudy, and we had some few drops of rain in the morning of the
26th, but the weather cleared up about ten o'clock; cumuli formed in the
afternoon, and towards night thunder-storms were observed both in the
east and west. I found a shrubby prickly Goodenia, about four or five
feet high, growing on the borders of the scrub.
Feb. 27.--Mr. Gilbert, whom I had sent back from the wells of the natives
to bring on the camp, had been prevented from doing so, and I had
consequently to return the whole distance. The interruption was caused by
our bullocks having gone back several miles, probably in search of better
water, for we found them generally very nice in this particular.
The natives had, in my absence, visited my companions, and behaved very
quietly, making them presents of emu feathers, bommerangs, and waddies.
Mr. Phillips gave them a medal of the coronation of her Majesty Queen
Victoria, which they seemed to prize very highly. They were fine, stout,
well made people, and most of them young; but a few old women, with white
circles painted on their faces, kept in the back ground. They were much
struck with the white skins of my companions, and repeatedly patted them
in admiration. Their replies to inquiries respecting water were not
understood; but they seemed very anxious to induce us to go down the
river.
We started at noon to Skull Creek, which, in a straight line, was
fourteen miles distant, in a north by east direction. Loose cumuli
floated in the hazy atmosphere during the whole forenoon, but rose in the
afternoon, and occasionally sheltered us from the scorching sun. At four
o'clock two thunder-storms formed as usual in the east and west, and,
eventually rising above us, poured down a heavy shower of rain, which
drenched us to the skin, and refreshed us and our horses and bullocks,
which were panting with heat and thirst. Our stores were well covered
with greasy tarpaulings, and took no harm.
Feb. 28.--Successive thunder-storms, with which this spot seemed more
favoured than the country we had recently passed, had rendered the
vegetation very luxuriant. The rotten sandy ground absorbed the rain
rapidly, and the young grass looked very fresh. The scrub receded a
little more from the river, and an open country extended along its banks.
The scene was, therefore, most cheerful and welcome. Mr. Gilbert and
Charley, who had made an excursion up the river in search of water,
returned with the agreeable information that a beautiful country was
before us: they had also seen a camp of natives, but without having had
any intercourse with them.
Feb. 29.--It was cloudy in the morning, and became more so during the
day, with easterly and north-easterly winds. As soon as our capricious
horses were found, which had wandered more than eight miles through a
dense Bricklow scrub, in search of food and water, we started and
travelled about ten miles in a north-east direction, leaving the windings
of the river to the left. The character of the country continued the
same; the same Ironbark forest, with here and there some remarkably
pretty spots; and the same Bastard-box flats, with belts of scrub,
approaching the river. At about nine miles from Skull Creek, which I
supposed to be in latitude 21 degrees 42 minutes, the Isaacs breaks
through a long range of sandstone hills; beyond which the country opens
into plains with detached patches of scrub, and downs, with "devil-devil"
land and its peculiar vegetation, and into very open forest. The river
divides into two branches, one coming from the eastward, and the other
from the northward. It rained hard during our journey, and, by the time
we reached the water-hole which Mr. Gilbert had found, we were wet to the
skin.
In consequence of the additional fatigues of the day, I allowed some
pieces of fat to be fried with our meat. Scarcely a fortnight ago, some
of my companions had looked with disgust on the fat of our stews, and had
jerked it contemptuously out of their plates; now, however, every one of
us thought the addition of fat a peculiar favour, and no one hesitated to
drink the liquid fat, after having finished his meat. This relish
continued to increase as our bullocks became poorer; and we became as
eager to examine the condition of a slaughtered beast, as the natives,
whose practice in that respect we had formerly ridiculed.
As I had made a set of lunar observations at Skull camp, which I wished
to calculate, I sent Mr. Roper up the north branch of the Isaacs to look
for water; and, on his return, he imparted the agreeable intelligence,
that he had found fine holes of water at about nine or ten miles distant,
and that the country was still more open, and abounded with game,
particularly emus.