DEFEAT OF THE ENEMY--ANOTHER CARGO OF BECHE DE
MERE--A TRIP TO MANILA--CARY RECEIVES LETTERS FROM HOME.
I had several hairbreadth escapes from their missiles, but fortunately
they were escapes. Eight or ten of us who had muskets marched up,
dodging behind trees and stumps until within easy musket shot. David,
dressed like a native, led our party. He got shelter behind a stump,
singled out one of their chief warriors, fired and shot him through
the head. As soon as their chief fell the enemy fled for the woods
and mountains. Then we rushed forward, broke down their bamboo fence
and entered the village. We killed all who had not made their escape,
plundered the town and set it on fire, then marched back to Navarto,
singing songs of victory. Here we were paid for our services with hogs,
turtles, fishing nets and whales' teeth.
We remained here several days, then embarked for Labooca, where I
stopped some time. I next went to Ambow, and there found some of the
Raver chiefs who were bound home. Feeling that I should like to see my
old chief I took passage with them. The chief at Raver was delighted
to see me. He immediately took me to his house and prepared a hearty
meal for me. When I had finished he began to question me, asked what I
got out of the ship, and why I had not brought my goods with me. I told
him I had not got much except a beautiful musket. He examined it very
closely and wanted me to change with him, which I did.
I stayed there about a fortnight and was about to return to Ambow, when
a messenger arrived from the big island and informed the chief that the
enemy was about to attack their town in great numbers, and that unless
they received assistance they would have to desert their village. I
was sitting beside the chief, who turned to me and said: "Wilama, you
go and defend their village?" Though I felt little inclination to do
so, I knew that he would be displeased if I refused, so I consented to
go. There was one of the Manila men in the house at the time who was
eager to go with us, so we made immediate preparations and embarked
that evening. On our passage along the shore in a canoe I suffered
intolerably from mosquitoes and sand fleas, having absolutely no
protection from them, as I was quite naked.
We arrived at the village just before daylight. The enemy were just
discernible on the neighboring hills in great numbers. We beat drums
to let them know that they were discovered and that we were prepared
for them. They continued hovering round the village during the greater
part of the day, but made no attack and towards night marched away. Our
party then returned to Ambow, where I remained a few days longer, then
went to Labooca.
Here I passed the time very agreeably with David. The head chief of
Labooca was a very pleasant, agreeable man, but, like all natives,
rather inclined to be jealous. When David and I were talking together
he was always very inquisitive to know what we were talking about,
but we would tell him some plausible story calculated to allay all
uneasiness.
By invitation of the chief, we accompanied him to the island of Engow,
and while there some of the natives from the mountains saw a vessel
steering for the island of Ovalau. They came and reported to the chief.
I was of course very anxious to get to her, feeling very certain that
it was the Clay, as it was about the time that Capt. Vandaford had
agreed to be back (July, 1828). But the wind was blowing a gale and we
were unable to leave for two days. At length it moderated and we got
underway for Ovalau. We had not been out long before it blew so hard we
had to take in both sails (the large canoes always carry a small sail
for stormy weather) and steer for the nearest land, which was Butcheak.
We anchored there, went on shore, and got some supper. The following
day, the weather having moderated, we again started for Ovalau, where
we arrived in the forenoon.
On landing, the natives informed us that a ship was at anchor on the
opposite side of the island. We (David and I) got a small canoe and
started immediately for the ship, which proved to be the Clay. As we
neared the vessel, the captain hailed us to know if it was David, and
on being answered in the affirmative, immediately invited us on board,
and inquired why we had not visited him before. After telling him all
the circumstances, he engaged us to assist him in procuring another
cargo. He wanted me as interpreter on board and David to assist Mr.
Driver on shore. He had concluded not to go to Ambow with the ship, as
there were less natives here and he would not be troubled with so many
visitors as at Ambow, the distance being so great they would not come
off so often. We were about fifteen miles from Ambow. The old chief
visited us once in a while, and the captain always made him presents
and told me to tell him if he saw anything he wanted to ask for it,
which pleased him very much.
Mr. Driver found his beche de mer house in tolerable good order, so
that he was soon ready for business and the natives were as ready for
trade as ever, but the beche de mer was not so plentiful as on the
former occasion. While lying here the captain had a disturbance with
his chief officer, put him in irons and turned him out of the cabin.
At one time Capt. Vandaford went on a visit to the trading officer on
shore, leaving the ship in charge of the third mate, now acting as
second mate. On our return next day we found the utmost confusion had
prevailed during our absence. The officer had made too free with the
liquor and imagined that the boat was cut off and that the natives were
about to attack the ship. He had the guns all loaded and was running
about the deck like a madman, cursing and abusing everyone. Though
nothing serious happened, the captain was careful how he left him in
future.
While here, two Ambow chiefs brought off 30 hogs to sell. Capt.
Vandaford bought them on condition that they should take them on shore
and keep them until he wanted them, when he would pay them two muskets.
To this they assented and took them ashore. A few weeks later they
returned with them and demanded payment, which the captain refused
as the hogs had grown very poor in the meantime. At this they were
highly offended. They told him that if he would not pay them what he
had agreed he might keep the hogs, so they left them and were about to
leave in their canoes when Capt. Vandaford called them back, thinking
they might do him some injury in the beche de mer business, and gave
them the two muskets, whereupon they departed, well pleased.
After procuring a cargo we prepared for sea. I had now decided to go
to Manila in the ship. A few days before we left the king of Ambow
came to make his last visit. He expressed regret upon learning that I
was going, and wanted I should wait a while longer, but I told him my
friends at home were anxious to see me and I must go, though perhaps
I might come back again, and that I should never forget his kindness
to me. When the old man left us, we honored him with a salute and
three cheers. When we were ready for sea we discharged David and the
hired men, got under way and proceeded to Myambooa, where we arrived
at sunset and anchored. We were visited by the natives and procured
a stock of vegetables, etc. The next morning we made sail and before
night were clear of all the Feejee reefs and shaped our course for
Manila.
Nothing occurred during our passage worthy of special mention. We
crossed the line, took the N. E. monsoons, which carried us in sight
of the Philippine islands, and the latter part of January entered the
straits of St. Bernardino, arriving about the first of February. Our
cargo was readily disposed of to the Chinese merchants, who came off to
see it weighed, after which the ship's hold was prepared for taking in
a cargo of sugar. Capt. Vandaford informed me that he had spoken to the
American consul concerning me and that I was at liberty to leave the
ship if I chose, or might continue in her until I could do better, and
I finally concluded to remain for the present.
We commenced taking in a cargo of sugar, which was brought alongside
in lighters. I went on shore on liberty one day and fell in with one
of the Manila men who came in the ship. He told me that a Spanish
merchant had been talking with him about the islands and that he wanted
a man who understood the language of the natives to go in his ship,
which he was daily expecting from Canton. I went with this man to the
merchant's house, told him my business and got his terms. He offered me
forty dollars per month to go as second officer of his ship, but as she
had not arrived we could go no farther. He treated me very politely,
and I took leave of him with very high opinion. It had been so long
since I had been in civilized society other than on ship-board that
this merchant's gentlemanly courtesy made a deep impression on my mind.
I returned on board the Clay and informed the captain of the Spanish
merchant's offer and offered to continue in the ship if he would give
me monthly wages. He offered me low wages, which I accepted rather
than go with a crew of half Spanish and Indians. We had about finished
loading the Clay, when the brig Quill, of Salem, arrived with orders
to take from the Clay such men as liked to return to the islands with
an addition to their wages, and to exchange mates. I went on board the
Quill to see what wages I could get. The captain offered me fourteen
dollars a month, for which I agreed to go, so I took my month's advance
to get such articles as I needed and returned to the Clay.
The government here would not permit us to change crews, so the
captains agreed to sail in company, and exchange after we got to Angea
point. About the middle of March, 1829, we got under way in company
with the Quill. We had a very good passage across the China sea until
we came to the straits of Gasper. Here we had much light and calm
weather. We worked through and on entering the straits of Sunda saw
two large prows (a kind of vessel used in the East Indian seas) to
windward, heading down for us. A gun was fired from the Clay at them,
when they hauled their wind and stood off. We continued our passage
through the straits with light winds and pleasant weather. About the
latter part of April we came to anchor at Angea point, stopped here
two or three days and got some water, and Mr. Driver, with two seamen
besides myself, joined the Quill.
Late in the afternoon both vessels got under way and stood out from
the land. During the night, the weather being thick and squally, we
got foul of the Clay. She struck us on the larboard bow and did us
considerable damage. The Clay lost her jibboom, injured her head and
stove her quarter boat. Next day we came to an anchor under North
Island and repaired damages, then got under way and continued our
course through the strait. After passing Java Head we parted company
with the Clay.
Nothing worthy of particular notice occurred during the remainder of
our passage to the islands. When in sight of the island of Coroo we saw
a rankish looking schooner off our bow standing toward us. When near
us she luffered by the wind, brailed up foresail and hoisted Chilian
colors. Not knowing who or what she was, and as she had rather a
suspicious look, we loaded our big guns and prepared for the worst. She
kept off from us, came down and spoke us. We found it was the schooner
Valador of and from Valparaiso, on a trading cruise among the islands
for tortoise-shell, etc. We stood in for the island of Coroo. When we
got near the island the natives came off, bringing yams, bread-fruit,
etc., for trade. It was now late, so we shortened sail and lay to for
the night. At daylight we made sail and arrived at Ovalau late in the
afternoon.
We were soon visited by David Whippey and a host of natives who
informed me that the old king of Ambow was dead and that he was
succeeded by his brother Veserwanker, who was greatly his inferior in
every sense. Mr. Driver, the chief officer, was dispatched to Ambow
to visit the new king and see if a cargo could be procured. The king
thought he could furnish a cargo as well and as quickly as his brother
had done for the Clay. The weather being fine we got under way for
Ambow, where we soon arrived and were visited by the king and suite.
The captain invited the king below and treated him with rum, which he
drank very freely and soon found he liked it better than carva. His
visits became very frequent and lengthy; he would sit and drink rum
until he became boozy; then he would praise the rum saying it was much
better than carva and tell me how foolish his head was, which I did not
at all doubt, for his actions were quite as foolish as his feelings.
When he left us after these visits he would insist on having a couple
of bottles to take with him. He used to tell me to tell the captain not
to give the rest of the natives any, but to keep it all for him. He was
the only one among them that I ever saw drink rum.
We got along slowly with the beche de mer. It was getting scarce and
we had frequent spells of bad weather which prevented the natives from
going after it.
One day a chief brought a spy glass to Mr. Driver to sell, which he
said was found on the reef by some of the natives who were fishing.
We could form no idea how it got there, other than that some vessel
had been cast away somewhere in the neighborhood. It was nearly a new
glass and very little bruised; consequently could not have been long
there. Soon afterwards we learned from the natives that a vessel had
been cast away on a reef near the Island of Thowcanrover. Capt. Kinsman
immediately hired a chief to go in search of the captain and crew. A
canoe was prepared and sailed for the island of Somoson. Mr. Page,
clerk of the brig, accompanied the chief. On their arrival at this
island they found the captain, whose name was Clark, and his mate, some
of the crew, and heard of the others on different islands, but could
not stop to get them. We found from Capt. Clark that the lost vessel
was the same schooner which we had spoken on our arrival at the Islands
(the Valador).
The captain said that after leaving us he stood over for the island of
Nerg. After trading with the natives he started for Thowcanrover. When
near the island he struck on a coral reef. Having lost his boats at the
Navigator islands, he had nothing left but two old canoes which were
lashed together and with as many as they would carry left the wreck,
leaving the crew to shift for themselves. These were afterwards taken
off by the natives. They succeeded in reaching the shore in the canoes,
but were immediately stripped of everything they had brought with them
and threatened with instant death, but were rescued by a friendly chief
who heard of the wreck and went immediately to their relief, arriving
just in time to save their lives. This chief was always very friendly
to the whites. He had frequently told me that if he had known of the
loss of the Oeno at the time he would have come and taken us all to his
island and protected us. He always protected the whites from assaults
and insults. But few are to be found in any country possessed of kinder
feelings or more amiable qualities than this old heathen. Capt. Clark
said the spy glass was his and came out of the wreck. He and his mate,
Mr. Wallis, were kindly received and treated by Capt. Kinsman and
his officers and furnished with clothes, of which they were nearly
destitute.
It was now the 4th of July, which was celebrated on board our brig by
firing big guns and small arms, to the great amusement of the king and
natives. They were perfectly astonished at the distance the shot went
from the big guns, but did not at all like the noise they made. One
day the king, seeing some paint about decks, requested me to ask the
captain to give him enough to paint his canoe. He said it would make
her look like a vessel. I told the captain if he would give him the
paint I would go on shore and put it on for him, which I did, much to
his satisfaction. When finished I told him to have a fence built around
her to keep the hogs and natives from her, and not to touch her for a
week by which time she would be fit to use, all which instructions he
strictly followed, and was extremely proud of her, saying there was not
another canoe among the islands so handsome.
This old chief was very anxious to buy my fowling piece, but as there
was no trading allowed except for the brig I put him off from time to
time, but he wouldn't give it up. I finally told him he should have it
for the shell of three large tortoises. He went off in pursuit of the
shells, which he brought in the evening and took the gun highly pleased
with his bargain. The gun having four barrels he thought he should
be superior to the other chiefs if he had such an uncommon piece of
property.
We lay here a long time, but getting ahead very slowly with our cargo,
the Captain concluded to get to Myambooa, as the beche de mer had
become very scarce at Ambow. About the middle of October we got under
way for Myambooa Bay, where we found the ship Glide, of Salem, Capt.
Henry Archer. He informed us that in coming in to the bay he had struck
a sunken rock and his ship leaked so badly they had all they could do
to keep her free with both pumps. He had heard of a vessel being at
Ambow and had sent his second mate in pursuit of her and now began to
feel anxious for his safety. Mr. Driver was immediately dispatched in
pursuit of the missing officer, and next day both returned.
Preparation was now made for heaving down the Glide. Her guns and
stores were taken on board the Quill and some of her cargo was taken on
shore at the beche de mer house in care of Mr. Driver who had commenced
the beche de mer trade. Having discharged the Glide, a raft was
constructed from her spare spars and coconut trees, to which she was
hove down, her leak stopped and she was righted again and took in her
cargo and stores. We continued our business till December when, having
procured a sufficient cargo, we got ready to leave for Manila. When we
were about ready for sea Capt. Archer wanted I should join his ship, to
which I agreed at thirty dollars per month, and after having settled
with Capt. Kinsman, joined the Glide. In a day or two the Quill sailed
for Manila.
We now commenced procuring a cargo for the Glide. Having got on board
about four hundred picul, and the beche de mer getting scarce, the
captain thought it better to shift our quarters to the island of
Angalore, where we were told by natives it was very plenty. So Capt.
Archer made an agreement with a Myambooa chief to go to Angalore and
have a house built before we went with the ship. The chief immediately
started in his canoe, accompanied by the chief mate with a plan of the
house. In a few days they got a house built one hundred feet long by
twenty wide. We then proceeded to Angalore, where we anchored about
three-quarters of a mile from the shore. Here the natives brought us
the beche de mer as fast as we could take care of it, which enabled us
to soon secure our cargo.
It was now the latter part of March, 1830. Having nearly finished our
cargo, and being out of hogs and none to be got in this neighborhood,
the captain told me I must get some hogs somewhere, so I made a bargain
with the chief of Bratter to go to his town, which was about sixty
miles from the ship, and get a supply, for which he was to have a keg
of powder. A canoe was prepared and I took with me a musket, powder
and shot and a few articles for small trade, and started. Soon after
leaving the ship the weather became squally and rainy, so we landed
at a neighboring village and put up for the night. Having much bad
weather, it took us six or seven days to get to the island of Ingaun.
From there I saw a ship lying at anchor at Ovalau, about three miles
distant. I immediately procured a small canoe and natives to work her,
and started for the ship, but before we arrived it grew dark and rainy,
so we landed on the shore at a small village, where I spent a sleepless
night, having very sore eyes and surrounded by innumerable mosquitoes.
In the morning, after eating a breakfast of boiled yams, I pulled off
for the ship, which I found to be the Clay, Capt. Mellitt, from Salem.
I informed him who I was, where I was from, and my business, and that
the Glide would be ready for sea on my return. He wished me to join
his ship, offering me the same wages, but I told him I could not agree
to it without the consent of Capt. Archer. After stopping an hour or
two and learning as much news as I could remember, he gave me letters
for the Glide and I took my leave. Among the letters I found several
for myself from home. I cannot describe my feelings on reading these
epistles from my sisters nor can they be imagined by anyone who has not
been in a similar situation. It was nearly six years since I had heard
a word from home.
I returned to the village, where the chief was waiting for me. He was
very inquisitive to know what ship it was, who was master, what he was
after, etc. We immediately got under way for Bratter, which was six
or eight miles distant. On our passage we stopped at a small island,
uninhabited, to shoot some birds, which were very plentiful around the
shore. The natives told me that this island belonged to the Spirits
and if I shot the birds they would be angry and cause some accident to
befall us. I, however, paid no regard to their superstitious fears, but
shot as many as I wanted. In getting under way again the sail caught
so that in hoisting it they tore a large hole. This they regarded as
punishment for shooting the Great Spirit's birds. We repaired the sail
and steered for Bratter. We soon arrived at the entrance of a small
crooked river, took in our sail and poled the canoe up to the town.
Here I was detained about a week by bad weather. During this time I
visited the Clay, which had got under way from Ovalau and anchored
near this place. I spent an evening on board the Clay and returned to
Bratter, taking with me a man who had been cast away near the island in
a Sydney whaler.
Having collected a hundred hogs and the weather being somewhat better,
we started with our hogs in eight canoes. After getting out, the
weather grew so bad we landed at Ingram, had a hog baked under ground,
and with yams and tarrow we lived well for one day. The weather
continued boisterous for two days. It then moderated and we made sail
for the ship, which was about fifty miles from us. After running about
half our distance the wind blew so strong we struck our big mast and
sail and set the small one. The wind still increased until it became so
rugged that it was with difficulty that our canoes could be kept free
of water. We continued on some time in this way, until the natives were
quite exhausted with bailing.
Fearing they would give out and our canoe being old and leaky and
heavily loaded, I persuaded the chief to throw the big mast and yard
overboard, and told him if that was not sufficient we must heave some
hogs over, as the canoe was now half full of water, which was all the
time gaining, the other canoes nearly out of sight, and the nearest
land twenty miles off. After throwing overboard the mast and yard we
managed to get the water out and were enabled to keep her free.
About dark we arrived at the village of Umbawaller. Here we remained
for the night. We were now about twenty miles from the ship. Next
morning we got under way with a fine breeze and pleasant weather and
at night landed on a small island in Wylain bay, about a mile from
the ship. There being no huts here we slept on the grass. By daylight
next morning we were under way for the ship, where we safely arrived,
having been absent twenty days. I was welcomed back with three hearty
cheers from the crew, who had given me up for lost. The hogs were taken
on board and paid for at the rate of twenty for a musket; the chief
received his keg of powder for his services and they all went off well
satisfied.