SPEAKS NANTUCKET SHIP--RETURNS TO FEEJEES--SHIPWRECKED
AGAIN--PASSAGE FOR HOME ON SCHOONER--BACK IN
NANTUCKET AFTER NINE YEARS' ABSENCE.
The ship was now ready for sea, and on the 24th of April, 1830, we got
under way and steered out, but not being able to find a passage through
the main reef before night, put back and anchored at the Island of
Anganger. Here we experienced a severe gale, sent down topgallant yards
and masts and housed the topmasts. We rode out the gale, which lasted
2 days, without any damage, then got under way and went to Myambooa.
We sailed from here the 28th, got clear of the islands and shaped our
course for Manila.
Nothing out of the common course occurred during the passage. We
entered the strait of St. Bernardino on the 19th of June and arrived at
Caveeta on the 25th. After receiving a visit from the health officer
Capt. Archer, with a boat's crew, went to Manila. The next morning the
boat returned. While lying here the schooner Antarctic of New York,
Capt. Morell, arrived, having lost his mate and thirteen seamen, who
were killed by the savages. On the 28th we received orders from the
captain to come to Manila with the ship, and in the afternoon got under
way, ran into Manila roads and came to among the shipping.
After selling the cargo, Capt. Archer concluded to fit out for another
voyage to the islands. I was in hopes he would take a cargo for the
United States, as I was quite tired of the beche de mer business and
was anxious to get home, but in this I was disappointed. Capt. Archer
offered to get me a passage to Canton in an American ship which was
lying here, so I concluded to take my discharge and take passage to
Canton. I accordingly settled with Capt. Archer and took my things
on board the Canton ship. I stopped on board of her two days and was
informed by her officers that I should probably have to stop in Canton
two or three months before there would be an opportunity to go to
America. This discouraged me from taking this method to get home,
thinking it would about use up what little saving I had made. I then
decided I would join the Glide again if I could get fair wages and
continue in her till she went. I borrowed the ship's boat and went to
Capt. Archer, told him my determination and offered to go with him for
twenty dollars per month which, after some hesitation, he agreed to
give me.
About the 20th of July, 1830, we sailed for the islands. After
getting through the straits we hauled to the northward and crossed
the North Pacific Ocean in about the latitude of 30 degrees. During
our passage across here, which is called the coast of Japan, we saw
a great number of whales and several whale ships. We spoke the ship
Zenas Coffin, of Nantucket, Capt. Joy, and two New Bedford ships. We
continued our passage for the Sandwich Islands, where we arrived and
anchored at the island of Mowee on the 8th of October. Here there were
several Nantucket ships and men, and it seemed almost like home to me
for a while. Among them was a cousin of mine who could tell me much
interesting news from home. The time passed very agreeably. We procured
supplies and on the 15th sailed for the Feejees.
Nothing of consequence occurred during our passage until about the
middle of November, when we made Perhhyns island, a low island situated
in 9 degrees 01' South Latitude and 157 degrees 35' West Longitude.
While running along the shore of this island we saw three or four
canoes coming towards us. We backed the maintopsail and waited for
them. When they got within a short distance of us they set up a
terrible shouting and yelling, brandishing their clubs and making all
manner of threatening gestures, while still more canoes could be seen
coming, but we were well armed and manned and did not fear them. Seeing
they were about to surround the ship, the captain ordered a musket
fired over their heads as they were crossing the bow, but they paid no
regard to it. They came alongside on both sides. We tried to entice
them on board, but they would not come. Each one held his spear in his
hand ready for use.
Finding there was nothing to be got from them we braced forward the
main yard and soon left them astern. They continued following us for
some time. Thinking they might come on board, we again backed the
maintopsail and let them come alongside. They clambered out of their
canoes into the main and mizzen chains still grasping their spears.
Capt. Archer turned back-to to them and stooped to take something off
the hencoop, when a fellow in the mizzen chains let fly his spear at
his head. It grazed his neck hard enough to break the skin. A volley
was immediately fired upon them on both sides, and some were run
through with boarding pikes. They all jumped or fell overboard. We cut
adrift their canoes from alongside, braced full, and left them to pick
up their dead and wounded. Some of the crew were anxious to attack
them, but Capt. Archer told them there had been too much blood shed
already.
This island was nearly covered with coconut trees. The warriors were
very dark colored. There were a few women with them who were much
lighter colored and had remarkably smooth skins. They had nothing in
their canoes except instruments of war consisting of spears, lances and
clubs. Some of them had on necklaces made of hair very neatly braided
and where the ends were fastened they had a finger nail secured on.
We continued our course for the Feejees, where we arrived the last of
November and commenced business. We had a beche de mer house built
on Cambo point, which was about twenty miles from where the ship lay
and about three from Ambow village. There being a number of castaway
sailors here, they were employed to assist me in curing the beche de
mer.
We had not been here long before we had a very severe gale from the N.
W. One night I spent in sleepless anxiety, knowing the ship lay much
exposed to the wind and sea. I hardly thought it possible for her to
ride out the gale. But I was relieved next day from my apprehension by
David Whippey, who arrived from the ship. He told me she parted her
chain and rode by the hemp cable till the gale was over, when that
parted, being nearly chaffed off by the rocks. Having nothing left but
a kedge and hawser she drifted in towards the island and came very
near getting on the rocks but, getting a favorable flaw of wind from
the land, they were enabled to clear the rocks and were then safe but
without anchors. They sent to the Island of Somoson and bought the Brig
Faun's anchors, for which they gave six muskets. Two boats were sent
to me with articles of trade and information that the ship was going
to the Island of Mathawater to carry on the beche de mer business and
leave me to procure what I could in her absence. In looking over my
trade I found there was not enough of some articles and, as the ship
was about to leave, I went on board to get what I needed.
When I got on board I found everything in great confusion. The second
mate had gone on shore in the morning to cut an anchor stock, when they
were attacked by the natives and two men killed, the rest narrowly
escaping to their boat. After getting to the boat the officer fired
at the natives and killed one. Two boats were then fitted out from
the ship well armed and landed, but the natives fled into the woods.
The bodies of our two men were taken on board and afterwards decently
buried on shore at the village of Labooca.
The captain informed me that the natives were getting to be very
troublesome and had made two attempts to take the ship, but their
design was discovered in time to prevent it. The first time they came
off in canoes, about fifty of them. Some came on one side and some the
other. The second mate chanced to look over the side and saw the chains
full of clubs and other instruments and told the captain that they were
about to attack the ship, when all hands were called to arms. As soon
as the natives saw a muster on board they jumped into canoes and went
on shore. A few days afterwards they came off again on pretention of
selling mats, under which they had their arms concealed, but their
scheme was discovered in time to be prepared for them.
Fortunately for us, I brought off a chief with me who wished to visit
the ship. When I told him that we had two men killed by the natives
of Ovalau he was very much frightened. I told him he need not be
frightened, but he was a prisoner for the present. The captain told me
to get everything we had on shore off to the ship. We went to Camber
with two boats to take off our property. When we arrived we found the
men that I left in care of the establishment much alarmed, fearing
an attack from the natives. They had been under arms all night. The
natives had been very insolent and troublesome during my absence. We
immediately commenced loading our boats and five or six canoes which I
hired for the purpose.
When the natives found their chief was detained they very readily
assisted us to get everything to the boats and behaved very civilly,
but I have no doubt if we had not had the chief on board they would
have robbed and perhaps killed us all. But they well knew that their
chief would have to suffer if they committed any depredations and they
valued him more than all we had. We got our boats loaded and made the
best of our way for the ship. We got alongside the ship towards night,
and when we got everything on board we discharged the canoes and the
chief, much to his satisfaction.
About the middle of January, 1831, we left the island of Ovalau for
Ambooa, but finding the beche de mer very scarce at Ambooa we went to
Angalore. Here we commenced curing the beche de mer. We had obtained
about four hundred piculs, when our house caught fire and burned to the
ground, consuming about a hundred piculs of the beche de mer. We soon
got another house built, but the natives became troublesome, annoying
us in every manner possible, both night and day, stealing everything
they could get hold of and continually insulting some of our party in
the grossest manner, which we dare not resent.
I bore it until it became past endurance and I began to fear that they
had still worse intentions. I then went on board the ship and informed
the captain of the conduct of the natives and my fears. He went on
shore with me and was soon satisfied that it would be imprudent to stop
longer and immediately made preparations for leaving. Next morning the
boats were sent on shore, into which we put everything of value, set
fire to our house, and went on board.
From here we went to Mathawater, where we continued our business till
the 20th of March, when a hurricane commenced from E. N. E. We sent
down our light spars, housed our topmasts, sent down lower yards and
got everything as snug as possible, but about midnight our anchors
began to drag and the foremast was cut away, which fell over the
starboard side. Directly the mainmast went by the board, taking with it
the head of the mizzenmast three or four feet below the top. The ship
still continued to drag, but we could do nothing more but resignedly
wait the result, being now wholly at the mercy of the wind and sea.
The wind soon shifted to N. W. and blew apparently with double fury.
After drifting about seven miles she brought up on a sand spit near the
shore. We had on board two chiefs who advised us to stop on board until
it moderated and they would see us safe to Mathawater, but the natives
began to swim off in considerable numbers, and the captain, fearing
they would get to quarreling for plunder and endanger our lives, got
his trunk and some few articles into a boat and with a crew went
ashore, but were met on landing by a party of natives and plundered of
everything.
I remained on board until noon, when our decks and indeed every part
of our ship were filled with natives collecting such articles as best
suited them. They took all the chests and filled them with their
plunder. One chief got about 80 whales' teeth tied up in a blanket and
attempted to swim on shore with them. He got a short distance from the
ship when they became so heavy he had to let them go, and returned to
the ship nearly exhausted in struggling to save his treasure.
All the ship's company being safely landed, save five or six of us,
we took the small boat and such articles as we thought we could get
off with and left the ship, landing abreast where she lay. We took our
things and started for the village of Mathawater, but we had not gotten
far from the boat before we were met by a party of natives who robbed
us of everything we had and left us to continue our journey. After a
very tedious travel of about seven miles we arrived at the village,
sore-footed and heartsick enough--at least I was.
We found our beche de mer party at this village had lost their house
during the gale and had given themselves up to the natives, who
furnished them with another house, treated them with every kindness,
and never took any of their property nor molested them in any way. We
were also treated with the greatest kindness and furnished by the chief
with everything to make us comfortable, but our number being so great
we thought we were bearing rather hard upon his hospitality; so seven
of us concluded to go to Ambow. We took our small boat and, after four
days' passage, arrived at the island of Coroo. Here we learned from the
natives that another vessel was cast away at Ambow, but we could not
ascertain her name. In a few days we arrived at Ambow and found the
wrecked vessel was the brig Niagara, from Salem. She was driven from
her anchors in the gale of the 20th of March. The natives took out the
cargo and left her lying on the flats.
After remaining a few weeks at Ambow we went with the natives to Raver
to attend a great feast. At the feast they had one thousand hogs cooked
and yams and tarrow in proportion. At the close of the grand feast they
had a great dance as usual on such occasions. After about two weeks the
rest of the crew returned. I preferred stopping here awhile. I lived
with a young chief, brother to the king.
Here I remained until the arrival of the barque Perne, of Salem, Capt.
Egleston, some time in October. I then went to Ambow, where I met the
captain of the Perne at the king's house. I asked him for a passage;
he said he did not think he could accommodate me as he already had
several more than his complement. I said no more, but next morning I
went on board the barque and asked him again for a berth. His answer
was, "No, I won't." I turned short upon my heel, got into my canoe and
shoved off, when Capt. Archer saw me, called me back and asked why I
did not go in the vessel. I told him I had tried to get a berth but
was refused and should have to wait for another opportunity. He told
me to stop a moment and he would see the captain. After talking with
Capt. Egleston he informed me I could go in the barque, so I stepped
on board. The same day a schooner belonging to Oahu arrived here,
having on board the remainder of the Glide's crew. I remained on board
the Perne about three months, when the schooner Charles Dogget, Capt.
Driver, of Salem, arrived. Five of us then left the Perne and went on
board the schooner. After getting a full cargo of beche de mer among
the islands I left her at Raver on the 3rd of April, 1832, when she
sailed for Manila.
After remaining here about three months the Perne arrived. I had now
made up my mind to leave the island at the first opportunity. The Perne
was bound to the island of Rotumah. I thought if I went there I might
get a chance on board of some whaler and be enabled to earn something
before I went home. A man by the name of William Perkins, who lived
with me at the young chief's at Raver, went on board the barque with me
to engage passage to Rotumah.
The captain consented to take us, so we went on shore, took a time when
the chief had gone on a visit to another village, picked up our things
and went on board the Perne, much to the regret of the chief's mother,
who wished us to stop until her son's return, but we told her we were
only going a short cruise. We left in her care for her son a musket,
a keg of powder and a few pounds of lead in hopes it would be some
consolation for our leaving. After stopping here a few days trading for
turtle shell, we got under way for the island of Somoson.
In passing Coroo we took on board a white man who left a Sydney
whaling schooner. On our arrival at Somoson we found five white men
who escaped from Wallis island at the time of the massacre. These
men informed me that the natives at Wallis island had taken the ship
Oldham, of London, and massacred all hands excepting a small boy, who
was saved by an old woman who they believed had supernatural power and
could inflict any punishment she thought proper if they disobeyed her.
She took the boy and tabooed him and the natives dare not trouble him.
* * * * *
The particulars of the massacre above alluded to were as follows: A
man by the name of Minina, of and from Oahu, went there in a schooner
with a gang to procure beche de mer, tortoise shell, etc., which he
sent to the Sandwich islands by the schooner. He took possession of a
small island in the harbor, fortified it and called himself king, but
for his arbitrary, oppressive and unjust conduct to the natives they
rose and killed his whole crew with the exception of those men of whom
I have spoken. The conduct of the captain and crew of the Oldham was
as censurable as Minina's. They went on shore and took their women
by force and carried them off to their ship, many of them wives, and
by many acts of wanton levity and even cruelty the natives became so
enraged that they took a time when two boats' crew were on shore,
attacked those on board and on shore at the same time, and killed all
excepting the boy.
* * * * *
After remaining a few days at Somoson collecting tortoise shell we took
on board those Wallis island men and got under way with the intention
of going to Wallis island and retake the Oldham. On our arrival there
we sent in two boats well armed to reconnoitre. The boats were absent
so long we became alarmed for their safety, and fired guns and sent
up rockets to hasten their return, which had the desired effect. The
reason for their long absence was because the distance from the ship
to the shore was much greater than we had supposed. They found that an
English man-of-war brig had been there and set fire to the ship and,
after losing one man and killing many of the natives, they took the
survivor (the boy) and carried him to Port Jackson.
The ship being destroyed and nothing left for us to do here, we
proceeded to Rotumah, where we arrived the latter part of July, 1832.
Here fourteen of us were discharged who were passengers from the
Feejees. I remained here ten weeks, when the whaling schooner New
Zealand, Capt. Rapsey, of Sidney, arrived. I went on board and applied
for a berth with seven others of our party, but having a full crew and
being scant of provisions, we were refused, but afterwards some of his
men ran away and among them was his cooper, so I shipped as cooper to
receive the same lay that the old cooper had.
We took wood and water and were about to leave when a large whale was
seen from masthead, which we took, after getting one boat stove. The
weather coming on rugged, we lost part of the head but saved 82 barrels
from him. We beat up under the island and landed our stoven boat and
the carpenter to repair her. When done, we sailed for the Kingsmill
group of islands. Here we spoke ship Milo, Capt. West, of New Bedford,
with 808 barrels of oil, and a Sidney barque with many of her crew sick
with the scurvey and bound to Rotumah.
We saw a great number of whales around here but only took about 300
barrels. We used up some three months and put away for Rotumah,
lacking about ten tons of a full cargo and expecting to get that in
our passage. We proceeded to Rotumah, got a supply of wood, water and
provisions and sailed for Sydney, where we arrived the last day of
December. On our arrival the vessel and cargo was seized, but the crew
was paid off for 65 tons, the amount reported.
I stopped in Sydney till the 18th of February, 1833, when I sailed in
schooner Clementine belonging to the Isle of France, for New Castle,
after coal. We took in at New Castle about 100 tons of coal and
returned to Sydney, where we discharged on board of different ships
about 60 tons. Then took in a cargo of cedar, barley and cheese, and
on the 18th of March sailed for Hobart Town, where we arrived after
about 10 days' passage. Here we discharged our cargo and took in a few
bags of potatoes and about ten tons of stone ballast and on the 7th
of April sailed again for Sydney where, after a very rough, boisterous
passage, we arrived on the 23rd of the same month.
After our arrival I continued attached to the schooner for some
time. At length the ship Tybee, of Salem, Capt. Mellet, arrived. I
immediately went on board, found he wanted men, and engaged a berth. I
then got my discharge from the schooner and joined the Tybee. We first
took in a lot of hides, horns, hoops and bones. After filling the lower
hold with these articles, we filled between decks with New Zealand flax
and got ready for sea.
On the 9th of June, 1833, we got under way for the United States, after
being searched by the search boat for runaway convicts. We steered out
clear of the land, discharged the pilot and steered for New Zealand.
On the 16th, fine moderate weather, we passed the Bay of Islands,
New Zealand, and continued our course of Cape Horn, having strong
winds and fair until near the longitude of the Cape. We then had much
light easterly winds with plenty of snow. Went as far South as 63
degrees, where we saw large fields of ice extending to the horizon to
the southward of us as far as we could see from masthead. I suffered
very much from the cold, having been so long in a warm climate and
my wardrobe now not the most abundant. But after a while we got by
the Cape, made Staten Island and continued our course for Pernambuco.
On our passage spoke an English sloop-of-war from Rio Janeiro for
Valparaiso.
We arrived at Pernambuco the 22d of September, got some bread and other
supplies, and left for America. We had fine winds and fair weather
until in the neighborhood of Bermuda, where spoke schooner Baltimore,
from Para. The weather was very squally, with heavy thunder. The
schooner which was a short distance from us was struck by lightning,
which shivered her mast, then passed down below the deck and went out
through her foretopgallant mast, took a piece out of the head of her
foreside about six inches above water.
We continued our course homeward. On the 26th of October, 1833, about
midnight, we made Cape Cod light. At 9 a. m. took a pilot and about
noon came to anchor in Salem harbor.
I got discharged and paid off and took the stage for Boston, where I
found a Nantucket vessel in which I engaged a passage. After a few days
I arrived at Nantucket, after an absence of nine years. I was received
with much joy by my friends and relatives and I believe heartily
welcomed by all the inhabitants.
THE END