CARY TAKES JOURNEY WITH WHIPPEY--TRADING
WITH "BECHE DE MER"--BATTLE WITH HOSTILE NATIVES.
Morning came at last and I found my chief as good as his word. The
canoe and men were ready and I immediately embarked for Ambow. I found
the old king there as glad to see me and as kind as ever. He told me
the white man's vessel had come to one of the islands and inquired
if I was going to find her. I told him that was what brought me to
Ambow, and that I wanted him to furnish me a canoe to go over to Ovalau
to find David, as he had sent for me to go with him. He accordingly
procured me one from the fishing people and I was soon under way. The
king told me I must come back and not go in the ship, but tell the
captain to come and trade with him for beche de mer[1], all of which I
readily promised.
[Footnote 1: An article of luxury among the Chinese consisting of the
dried bodies of Holothuria or sea-cucumber. They are found nearly
buried in the coral sand, their feathered tentacula alone floating
above it. Beche de mer is extremely gelatinous, and is much used by the
Chinese as an ingredient in rich soups.]
When about three miles from Ambow the wind died out, and as night was
coming on the natives refused to proceed, despite my entreaties, so
we landed on a small island and spent the night. Next morning we got
under way and arrived at Ovalau about noon. I found the white man who
lived with David Whippey and he told me that David had gone to one of
the neighboring islands, but would be back the next day and that he
was waiting for me to go to the ship. The next day David returned, but
as it was late in the afternoon we decided to wait until the following
morning. It was now about a year since I had seen David and we spent
the night very pleasantly.
Early in the morning the chief's double canoe was launched and prepared
for the voyage. We made sail, having about twenty natives for crew and
six of us passengers--three whites and three of the brig's crew who
belonged to the island of Yap, one of the Caroline islands. (After the
mutiny they attached themselves to David and had been with him ever
since.) We ran this day about fifty miles N. E. and arrived before
sunset at the island of Booyar, where we stopped at a small village
tributary to Ovalau. Here we learned that the ship was at anchor at
Myambooa bay and that the captain had been trading at the islands
before. The natives brought us provisions as usual. They seemed to be a
poor tribe. Their houses were small and poorly built.
We were detained here by head winds for three days, which to me seemed
a month, so impatient was I to reach the ship and anxious lest she
might leave before we could get there. On the fourth day the wind and
weather were favorable and we started for Myambooa. As we neared the
mouth of the bay we discovered a canoe steering for us, and supposing
it to be enemy we immediately prepared for action. Our muskets were
loaded and the natives bent their bows, but on their drawing near we
saw it was an Ambow canoe that had been to the ship, and that she had a
well-dressed white man and one of the Manila men on board.
The white man hailed us and inquired where we were from. We told
him, and that we were in pursuit of a ship which we had heard was
at Myambooa. He told us that it was the ship Clay, of Salem, Capt.
Benjamin Vandaford, and that he was the second officer. He said they
were on a trading voyage for sandalwood and beche de mer, and that he
was now bound to Ambow, having heard of there being turtle shell and
some dollars there. He inquired as to the truth of the report and we
told him we knew of none, except what the king had in his possession.
David offered to go back with him to assist in trading, and after some
hesitation he took him. We then proceeded to the ship. I was invited
on board and kindly received by the captain and his officers, and soon
acquainted them with my story, and engaged passage in the ship to act
as interpreter and assist in procuring a cargo.
This was in October, 1827. The next day the chief of the island visited
us, bringing with him some sandalwood for a present to the captain. The
captain wished me to tell him that he wanted a house built for curing
beche de mer on the south side of the bay. The chief agreed to build
the house, but advised having it on the other side of the bay, as there
was not timber enough on the south side and it would take some time
to transport it. The captain, however, insisted upon having it built
on the south side, as it would be nearer the ship and more convenient
landing. So he went on shore and selected the site, and the chief soon
had the whole tribe at work cutting timber. The location of the house
was such that it could be protected by the ship's guns in case of
attack from the natives. The work progressed so fast that the house was
soon ready. When the pots were set and everything prepared for curing
the beche de mer, the captain sent me off to the reef with a boat's
crew after the fish, which we found quite plenty and we soon returned
with a boat-load. After breakfast they were landed and prepared for
cooking and curing.
The method of doing this is as follows: The fish is cut open at the
mouth and the entrails squeezed out. It is then boiled for half to
three-quarters of an hour, then skimmed out and laid on a flake to
drain. When sufficiently cool it is squeezed with the hands, put into
baskets and carried to the drying house, where it is spread on flakes
built over a trench, in which there is a slow fire. After remaining
there twenty-four hours it is shifted to a flake above, where it
remains two or three days. It is then put into bags and carried to the
ship, where it is carefully picked over, and what is sufficiently cured
is sewed up in bags, weighed, and stowed away ready for market.
The natives brought beche de mer in the greatest abundance--quite as
much as we could take care of--and the prospect was very good for
speedily procuring the desired supply. But one day, while we were on
board at dinner, our house was discovered to be afire. The captain
ordered two boats to be manned and armed, supposing it had been set
on fire by the natives. On reaching the shore, however, we learned
that it had caught by accident on the inside, and those in charge were
unable to extinguish it. It burned to the ground and also consumed a
considerable quantity of our beche de mer. That afternoon David arrived
from Ambow, bringing a letter from Mr. Driver, the second mate, which
stated that he had built a house and found the beche de mer very
plenty. He had got about forty piculs (a weight of 133 1/3 pounds)
cured, most of it of a superior quality. He had spent all his articles
for trade and wanted more sent.
Upon receiving this intelligence the captain decided to go to Ambow
with the ship and not attempt to rebuild here. So he collected what
sandalwood he could, paid off the men he had employed, made the chief
some presents and got under way. We beat up some five or six miles
and came to anchor under the headland of Naviti, where we lay three
days. We went on shore with the boat at the town of Naviti to trade
for vegetables, etc., and loaded our boat with coconuts, bananas and
sugar cane, for which we paid a few beads and trinkets. This island
is one of the largest in the group and is laid down on the chart as
"Thowcanrover".
Myambooa is the largest and most convenient harbor to be found at these
islands. The south side of the bay is formed by a low, narrow point of
land. The north side is very high land and there are several villages
located there but none near the shore. The village of Myambooa is the
principal place in this part of the island. It is situated near the
entrance of the bay, but some distance inland, and a river runs past
the village. While lying here in the Clay I went up this river with
Captain Vandaford and found the water very shallow at the mouth, with
a very crooked channel, but after getting over the bar found plenty of
water. On each side of the river are large groves of mangrove trees,
with their trunks below the surface of the water covered with oysters,
some of which we tried and found very good.
Above these trees stood the village of Myambooa, which was a small
place and the houses quite inferior. The natives depended upon their
neighbors for mats and other domestic articles, for which they paid
principally with powder and other articles which they got mostly from
ships. Their location gave them much the advantage in ship trade,
as it was the only place where sandalwood could be procured in any
considerable amount. Captain Vandaford had made two or three voyages
here before, found sandalwood plenty and bought it very cheap.
On the fourth day, the wind favoring us, we got under way and ran down
to the island of Goro, where we shortened sail and hove to near the
shore. The natives came off, bringing us yams and other provisions,
which we bought with knives, beads, etc. The next morning we made
sail, and proceeded to Ovalau, where we arrived in the afternoon, and
anchored off the western side near the shore. After getting the ship
snug a boat was sent to Mr. Driver, who was trading at the island of
Bever, about two miles from Ambow and ten or eleven miles from the
ship. When the boat returned we got under way and went nearer to the
island where Mr. Driver was employed and came to about two miles from
the shore surrounded with broken coral reefs. All hands were then
employed rigging boarding nets and getting ready for trade.
We were soon surrounded by natives from Ambow and adjacent islands. The
king and governor of Ambow came on board to inspect the ship, bringing
with them a few trifles as presents to the captain. The ship's sides
were thronged with natives, but none were admitted on board except
those of high rank. To enforce this we had to keep men stationed around
the ship to once in a while prick the natives off when they became too
bold. After those on board had satisfied their curiosity, the captain
directed me to tell them that he was going to Ambow and would like to
have their company, to which they consented, so the boat was prepared
for their reception, and we finally succeeded in getting them into it.
After we got off from the ship I told them, by the captain's order,
that the ship would fire a salute in their honor, which she did, and
they were highly delighted. On the way to the shore they commented
freely on the ship, her construction and the grandeur of her
appearance, and inquired how long it took to build such a noble vessel.
They were perfectly astounded when I told them that one could be built
and fitted for sea in three or four months. They could hardly credit
it, since it took them three or four years to build a canoe. We soon
landed at Ambow, where the natives were assembled in great numbers to
see the captain. The king's house was the first place we visited. The
inside was covered with new mats and everything arranged to show to
the best advantage to the visitors. Captain Vandaford gave the king's
wives a few small presents. We then took a stroll around the village
and I pointed out to him the different chiefs' houses. On our return to
the ship we found the natives, whom we left there, still viewing the
different parts and objects about the ship with evident interest. They
measured her length and breadth, and counted her masts over and over,
counting the bowsprit as one. They called it spineringarselar.
The next day we went on shore to the beche de mer house and found the
trading officer busy purchasing beche de mer, with which he was already
over-stocked. We loaded our boat with the cured and returned to the
ship. The natives were continually bringing fruit and vegetables,
which we bought very reasonably. The king and his officers having
had their visit, next came the queen and her retinue, to whom all
requisite attention was paid. They were invited into the cabin. They
were at first rather timid, fearing some evil was intended, but upon
my assuring them that they would not be harmed they ventured down.
They appeared delighted with the cabin furniture and indeed with
everything they saw. The captain made them some trifling presents,
but they thought as they were persons of the first rank he had ought
to have given them more. One of them asked me why the captain was
so stingy--said he was a great captain and ought to be liberal, but
he wasn't like massa Raver (Mr. Driver) who gave them a great many
presents and was the best white man that ever traded among them.
Mr. Driver on shore was continually crowded from morning till night
with women and children bringing beche de mer, mats for bags, fruit,
vegetables and everything which they thought he would buy. The price of
a musket was sixteen hogsheads full of beche de mer, which it took them
five or six days to get from the reefs. Some of it they got in two or
three fathoms of water, diving for it, and bringing up one or two at
a time. That obtained in deep water is the most valuable kind to the
Chinese. When first taken it is about a foot in length and from three
to four inches wide. The under side or belly is flat, and the back
rounding. When taken it is quite soft, and if not boiled soon spoils.
The entrails and water which comes from the fish is of a bright purple
and those employed in opening them get their hands so stained that it
is impossible to wash it off. It is quite lifeless. We never found
anything inside but this purple water and coarse sand and gravel. The
back is covered with prickles from an inch to an inch and a half in
length. When taken it is of a reddish cast intermingled with white, but
when properly cured is entirely black.
To procure it the natives go out on the reef, let the canoe drift,
with their eyes fixed on the bottom, and when they see one, dive and
secure it. When cured the prickles become hard and brittle as glass.
Captain Vandaford took one of this kind on board and weighed it green.
It weighed five pounds, but when cured it only weighed three quarters
of a pound. There are five or six different kinds of beche de mer. One
kind is about a foot long and three inches in diameter, smooth, and of
a reddish black color. The mouth is very small and round and has four
or five teeth. It is not as soft as the prickly kind but is generally
found with it in deep water. The two kinds are scarce and hard to get,
but are much more valuable than the kind we got at Myambooa, which
were of the same form, but much smaller and black, being found in much
greater abundance and more easily obtained, as it is found in shallow
water.
After being here some time we experienced a heavy gale of wind from the
southward. We put out three anchors and sent down our light spars. We
were surrounded with reefs, one not more than a cable's length astern,
but having good holding ground we rode out the gale without material
damage. Many of the houses at Ambow were blown down. The gale lasted
about twelve hours, then moderated and shifted to the northward,
blowing as hard as before, but did not last long. When it abated we
sent a boat ashore after beche de mer. Mr. Driver had all he could do
during the gale to prevent the house from blowing down but by the aid
of guys and shores had kept it up. Most of the thatch had blown off,
however, and the house was flooded with water. He had led the water
off by means of a ditch and was now ready for business again. When we
had procured six or seven hundred piculs the captain thought it best
to start for Manila, so as to get there before the change of the N. E.
monsoon, so we broke up the establishment, paid off the natives, made
the king and chiefs suitable presents and got underway for Ovalau where
we arrived the same afternoon.
I then concluded to leave the ship. It was now the 17th of February,
1828. I wrote a few lines to the owner of the Oeno, informing him of
her loss and the fate of the captain and crew, which I gave to Capt.
Vandaford, informing him that I should remain at the islands till his
return from Manila. David Whippey was on board, and we stopped for the
night. The next day the ship got under way and stood clear of the land
and backed her maintopsail.
The captain gave us (David and me) a boat into which he put a keg
of powder and musket for each, besides several small articles. He
requested us, if he got in any trouble or was in sight next morning, to
come off, which we promised to do, and shoved off. The ship fired a gun
and gave us three cheers, which we answered; she then squared away and
stood on her course, and we made the best of our way ashore, arriving
at the village of Labooca about sunset. David's chief was almost beside
himself with joy when he found that he had not gone in the ship, but he
had not the remotest idea of leaving.
After stopping a while with David I made a visit to Ambow. The king
was surprised enough to see me, supposing I had gone in the ship.
Seeing my musket he examined it attentively for some time, then said,
smiling: "White folks know how to pick out good things for themselves."
He then showed me his and asked me if they were as good as mine. I told
him they were exactly the same--they only wanted cleaning. I offered to
clean them for him, and while I was taking the locks apart and putting
them together the old man watched me with the keenest interest. When
I had finished he said: "Are you a spirit?" I told him no, that I was
flesh and blood the same as himself. "Well," said he, "if you are the
same as me, what makes you so white?" I told him it was because I
belonged to a colder climate and had always worn clothes. But he seemed
to think I must have some supernatural aid or I could not take the
locks apart and put them together again so readily.
I finished my visit and returned to Labooca to stop awhile with David.
I had not been here long before war was declared against one of the
villages on the island of Thowcanrover. David and I were invited
to join the expedition and messengers were sent to the different
villages to warn the inhabitants to appear at the chief town armed
and equipped for war early the next morning. When all the warriors
were assembled and ready for duty twelve canoes were prepared for
the expedition and we embarked for the village of Navarto, where we
obtained reinforcements. The next morning a consultation was held as to
the best mode, and it was decided to divide our forces, one party to
march by land and the other to proceed by water. We soon arrived near
the enemy's village, and after going through with the usual ceremony
we commenced our march toward the town, and attacked them with arrows.
They returned the attack with interest, adding to their arrows showers
of stones which seemed to be mostly directed at me. On account of my
having clothes on, they apparently selected me for a mark.