CUSTOMS OF THE ISLANDERS--THE PLANTING
SEASON--A TEMPLE ERECTED TO THE CALOO.
While I resided at Raver we went three months without rain, and
the earth became parched and hard as a brick. The inhabitants were
exceedingly alarmed at the duration of the drought. Such a time was
never known by the oldest people. They expected to lose their crop of
tarrow, which is a vegetable that grows only in very wet ground. It
is very nutritious, and the natives are exceedingly fond of it. In
fact, for months it is their chief article of diet. The chiefs went to
the Umbaty a number of times to get him to intercede with their Caloo
(God) to send them rain, but the old fellow's power did not reach
the clouds. They finally concluded that it must be on account of the
massacre of the Oeno's crew that they were so afflicted. I told them
I thought quite likely that it was to punish them for killing white
men. They said a ship was cast away at one of the islands some years
before, and the crew massacred, and that immediately after there was a
great sickness among them. They believed that the white man's Caloo was
superior to theirs.
One night while at this island we had a severe earthquake. It had been
a most beautiful evening, and I had been amusing the chief with stories
of my country. Just before bed-time we went into the house, got out
some yams and fish to eat and had just got seated when we heard a loud
rumbling noise. The chief jumped and ran out of the house and before
I could imagine what was the matter, the food was going one way and
I another. I started to crawl to the door, fearing the house would
be down on me, for by this time I perceived what the matter was, but
before I reached the door it was all over. The next morning I asked the
natives what was the occasion of the earthquake. They told me there
was a monstrous great spirit, who lived on the big island in a very
deep cave, whom they called Bookeegodinga. He laid on his back with
his knees drawn up, and his least motion shook the earth, and when he
rolled over, which was very seldom, it made a great earthquake. None of
them had ever seen this giant spirit, but some had seen his cave. They
frequently made him presents of mats, tappah and oil, carrying them to
the mouth of the cave and leaving the Umbaty to get him to accept them.
I presume he knew what became of them.
Shortly after this we visited the island of Cantab. We started in a
large double canoe with about a hundred souls on board, and arrived
about noon. The natives here showed the greatest respect to our chief,
all sitting down on his approach, and remaining seated until he had
passed. It is considered by them very disrespectful to stand when a
great chief or king passes, or to talk loud on indifferent subjects
in his presence, and it is sometimes punished with death. For such
misdemeanor the offender must take an arrow or spear in his hand, and
approaching the chief in the most humble manner, beg his pardon, and
when the latter is satisfied that sufficient penitence has been shown,
he grants his forgiveness. Sometimes for very great crimes, in addition
to the above ceremony they are required to make liberal presents of
whales' teeth. This is in cases of murder or for enticing away another
man's wife, which is always visited with the heaviest punishment.
This island had formerly been under its own government. The natives
were great warriors, and had never been conquered until the people at
Raver got muskets and subjected them, making them tributary to Raver.
The Raver natives considered them very valuable subjects. I heard there
was a white man residing on the other side of the island and asked my
chief for permission to visit him, but he refused saying it was an
enemy's town and the Raver people dared not go there. The fact was,
however, that he was afraid I should not come back. While here we were
supplied by the natives with provisions in the greatest abundance. We
remained a few days collecting tribute, and returned home deeply laden
with tappah, mats and coconut oil, which was divided among the chiefs
according to their rank.
The dialect of these people differed from any I had ever visited, but
their manners and customs were the same. Cantab is a small but high
island, about ten miles long by four wide. On the western end there is
a mountain shaped like a sugar loaf, at the foot of which there are two
springs, one hot or very warm, and the other nearly as cold as ice. I
bathed in the warm one, and could but just endure the heat. Many of
the natives had never beheld a white man before and eyed me with great
curiosity, but I was not much troubled with the children, as they were
very much afraid of me and if I looked toward them they would scamper
off like sheep.
When at Raver, I used to employ myself fishing, shooting and doing
little mechanical jobs for the chief. I used to have very fine
shooting, there being vast numbers of ducks round the river. The
natives were very expert at shooting them with arrows. One day I was in
the house casting a lead pipe for the chief, when suddenly he called
out "awanker parpalong sarla comy"! (The white man's vessel has come!)
I inquired where and how he knew. I learned that a canoe was off near
her and started to go on board, but seeing a smoke they were afraid
she was going to fire guns, and dared not go, but immediately came
ashore and reported. The chief ordered his canoe and we started down
the river. When we got to the mouth of the river we found the ship lay
about three miles from the reef, with the maintopsail aback, but the
water was so shoal that we grounded on the reef, and before we could
get over she braced full and stood off. My heart ached to see her go.
This was the first ship I had seen for over two years. We returned to
the shore and built large fires in hopes she would continue round the
island till morning, but when day broke we could see nothing of her.
The chief thought she had gone to the island of Cantab and some of our
party proposed going there if I would accompany them, which I readily
consented to do. We accordingly started in a small canoe, but when
we got to the passage through the reef, we found the sea too rough
to venture out, so we ran down inside the reef four or five miles to
a small village where we procured a large canoe and crossed over to
the island of Banger, about five miles distant. By this time it was
near night with a strong wind and rough sea, so we concluded to stop
there for the night. We secured our canoe and started for the village,
which was at the summit of the highest mountain and about three miles
from the shore. After a tedious walk over rocky hills and through
thickly-wooded valleys we arrived at the village, reported to the chief
and were assigned a house calculated for the accommodation of visitors,
with which every village is provided.
Through the night the inhabitants were employed cooking pigs and
vegetables, which were presented to us with the usual ceremony. The
morning brought a severe storm of wind, rain, thunder and lightning.
All we could do was to make ourselves comfortable. In the course of
the day our chief sent for an old Umbaty who was celebrated for his
knowledge of the future, and told him he wanted to know if there was a
ship at Cantab or any of the neighboring islands, also when the storm
would subside so that we could continue our voyage. The old man sat
motionless for a few moments, then got up and left us. Directly he
returned bearing in his hands a few green leaves. He sat down in the
middle of the house, and rubbed the leaves until the juice began to
run. He then held his hand with the juicy leaves straight up over his
head and said: "If this juice runs down to my shoulder without dropping
off she is there, but if not, she has gone some other cruise." He then
squeezed the leaves and the juice ran down to his elbow and dropped
off. "Ah!" he said, "she is not there." Other questions he answered the
same way.
This island is much like the others, high and well wooded, and very
fertile. The inhabitants were not so numerous as on other islands of
the same size, owing no doubt to their continual wars. Our chief told
me that till within a few years the natives here were very savage and
if a canoe landed for shelter in a storm or in distress they would
kill all hands and have a cannibal feast.
At sunset it cleared off and we proceeded on our voyage, arriving at
Cantab the next morning, but could learn nothing of the ship. We then
proceeded to Tarbuca where we concluded to make a stop. While here the
chief requested us to assist him to capture a village, the people of
which were very troublesome to him. We consented, mustered our forces
and started one morning, but found the enemy prepared for us. We had
two muskets. I had one and a chief another. We gave the war whoop, and
advanced to the attack, firing our muskets and wounding two, whereupon
they all fled, taking with them their wounded companions. Some of our
men followed them and killed one chief, who they slung on a pole and
brought back. They took the dead body to the square and sang songs of
victory over it, then carried it away and had a cannibal feast. The
following night one of the Tarbuca men went to this village and offered
to join them. They readily accepted him. After telling them some fine
stories he induced one of them to accompany him on the pretense of
securing some plunder. He got him near the town, knocked him on the
head, shouldered him and brought him into the town. For this act he was
well rewarded by the chief. We started for Raver with our canoe loaded
with presents given us for assisting in conquering the village, and
arrived the same day, having been absent about a fortnight.
Some time after this I obtained permission to visit Ambow. My chief
furnished me with a canoe and two men. We started in the morning and
reached Ambow in the afternoon. I went direct to the king, who was
delighted to see me and treated me to the best he had. He asked me
if I had come back to stop with him, but I told him I should return
the next morning, having only come to see him and inquire after his
health. He seemed very much flattered that I should have manifested so
much interest in him. I also went round and visited the chiefs of my
acquaintance, who were exceedingly glad to see me, but all regretted
that my visit was to be so short. The next morning we returned to
Raver.
A short time after our return we were visited by a party from the big
island called by the natives Vechalaboo, bringing with them presents
of tappah and salt for the king of Raver. These presents were brought
up to the public square, which is used for all grand occasions, and
distributed with the usual ceremony. After this our chiefs had a dance
by themselves. They formed in a straight line with the head chief in
the center and the singers behind. When the singing began (one singing
a line or sentence alone, then all repeating) the chiefs kept time
with their hands and feet with great regularity. They had no music but
singing, though when they went through the spear exercise, they made a
kind of drum by resting the ends of a stick of timber some five feet
long on blocks, and beating on the middle with sticks about the size of
drum sticks.
I always had the privilege, at the time of receiving presents, of
selecting whatever I chose, and generally availed myself of it.
Sometimes when the natives thought I was helping myself rather too
freely they would call out that a certain subject was tabooed, but I
would tell them it wasn't tabooed for me to take what I liked. Salt was
a scarce article among them and much valued. It was made in artificial
ponds by the heat of the sun, and they brought all they had for
market to Raver. The king of Raver had married the big island chief's
daughter. From Raver the salt was carried to Ambow, and exchanged for
tappah, oil, mats, etc., and from there it would get distributed over
most of the islands. It was manufactured in large cakes--some of them
as large as two men could carry on a pole. When our visitors departed
their canoes were loaded with presents from our people consisting of
mats, tappah, and oil scented with sandal wood and flowers.
This large island is separated from Raver by a channel only about a
mile wide. It was thickly settled and its inhabitants were continually
at war with each other. Indeed the principal occupation of the men,
when not on the war path, was the manufacture of clubs, spears, bows
and arrows, and other implements of war. Their dialect was so different
from ours at Raver that I could understand very little they said. (As
the reader may surmise, I had by this time quite mastered the language
of the natives with whom I had resided.)
There were great numbers of green and hawk's bill turtles around the
shores and an abundance of fish which they caught with their nets. They
would spread their net in the form of a half moon outside the fish or
turtles, secure it by sticking down poles, then drive the game towards
it by splashing the water. When these islanders were preparing for a
fishing cruise they were highly offended to be spoken to, and when
addressed refused to answer, and if anyone stepped on their nets or
fishing gear, they would postpone their cruise till another day. They
believed that if they conversed with anyone at such times they would be
eaten by sharks, or some other dire calamity would befall them.
It now being the planting season I went with the king one day to
witness their operations. At planting time it is customary for the
neighboring towns to join and assist each other. We went over the river
to a town on the opposite bank, where we found all hands employed in
breaking up soil and preparing it for the seed. This was done with a
kind of shovel made from a large pearl shell with a handle or pole
fixed to it. They dug up the earth and hove it up in heaps about four
feet apart, each heap being calculated for a hill of yams. The king
told me to select a piece of ground for myself, and he would have it
dug, which I did. After the ground was thus prepared they returned to
Raver and had a feast.
The next day the women went out and planted the yams. These were
planted about the same as we plant potatoes. The large ones were cut
into several pieces and the small ones planted whole. They put one or
more in each of the heaps of earth, covered them lightly with soil, and
then put a handful of white sand on each, that they might know when it
was all done. At every planting season they plant a piece of ground
for the Caloo (God). This is done principally by the chiefs, the women
not being allowed to plant this for fear the Caloo will be offended
and destroy their crops. The ground for the Caloo is dug up with an
ironwood stake and made up in heaps about four feet high with their
hands. They plant a hill on each heap and set a white flag on a pole
at each hill, thinking that this will insure them a good crop. Tarrow
keeps continually growing. They pull up a root and cut it off, then
stick the top down and a new root grows. After the yams sprout they
stick a reed in each hill for the vine to run up on. After this they
are left to the care of the women, who keep them clear from weeds with
a hoe made from a pearl shell.
The chiefs at Raver frequently employ themselves in making baskets,
which they weave very neatly and handsomely from a kind of grass which
they cure and dye various colors. These baskets are traded off to the
other islands.
The most of the chiefs had muskets and many of them were excellent
shots, but the common people seldom used one. It was very rare for
them to have property enough to buy one and if they did, and the head
chiefs or king took a fancy to it, they would take it away from them.
They sometimes would want to fire my musket, and I generally let them,
always putting in a heavy charge. They would hold the gun at arm's
length, and when they fired she would jump out of their hands. This
puzzled them very much. They could not understand why she did not
jump when I fired her. I used to frequently accompany the king on his
gunning excursions. He was an excellent shot, and prided himself very
much on his skill, and was always highly elated when he beat me.
The island of Raver is about five or six miles long and only about
two miles across in its widest part. It had five or six different
villages, some of them small. The one where the king resided was much
the largest, containing upwards of a hundred houses. Those occupied
by the common people were very small, but those belonging to the king
and chiefs were much larger. The one occupied by the king was about
forty feet by thirty wide. At each end he had a temporary floor across
from the eaves forming a loft. These lofts he used to deposit his
treasure in. One end, where he slept, was raised from the ground with
dry grass covered with mats and a curtain drawn across to keep out the
mosquitoes, which were exceedingly troublesome.
While I was here the king built a house for their Caloo Laboo (Great
Spirit). This was perfectly round. The center of the roof went up to
a very high peak, which was supported by a post in the ground. Across
this peak a spar was fastened, which projected eight feet beyond the
house, and was covered with small white shells, and a string of the
same ten feet long was suspended from each end of the spar. This was
built as an offering to the Great Spirit, who had given them power over
their enemies, and was placed in charge of the Umbaty, who was supposed
to frequently see and converse with the great Caloo.
They generally cook in the house, having the fire-place in the middle
of the building. They used earthen vessels to cook in, made in the form
of a jar. At one of the villages on this island they manufactured this
kind of ware and their water jars were very handsomely glazed with the
gum of a tree. This labor is all performed by the women. They bake it
in a kiln. This ware forms an article of traffic for which they get
tappah and oil from the other islands.
One morning the king sent a messenger to the king of Ambow. In the
afternoon he returned with a letter to me from David Whippey, informing
me that there had been a ship seen by the natives and that some of
them had been on board and conversed with the captain, who could talk
with them enough to inform them that he was going to Myambooa after
sandalwood. He (David) wished me to come to his town and go with him in
pursuit of the ship. I informed the king of the contents of my letter
and promised him that if he would let me have a canoe and two men to go
to Ambow and from there get to the ship, I would procure him a musket
and some powder. He was much pleased and promised that he would have
the canoe and men ready in the morning. I spent a sleepless night. The
thought of once more getting on board a ship drove sleep entirely from
my eyes.