Homer's Fabled Siren.--Singular Topographical Formation in
Gozo.--Beautiful Island Groves.--Fertile Grain-Fields.--
Flowering Hedges.--Aromatic Honey.--Herds of Goats.--A
Favorite Domestic Product.--Milk Supply.--Prolific Sheep.
--A Maltese Market.--Quail Shooting.--Rabbato, Capital of
Gozo.--The Old Citadel.--Lace Manufacture.--Prehistoric
Ruins.--The Giant's Tower.--Attractive Summer Resort.--Pagan
Worship.
Gozo, the fabled isle of Calypso, the Gaulos of the Greeks, the Gaulum
of the Romans, and the Ghaudex of the Arabs, with its rock-bound,
cave-indented shores, is oval in shape, and has the same general
characteristics as Malta, but is much more fertile. The undulating
surface of the island gives a casual observer the idea of its being a
hilly country, yet at only one place does it reach a height of over
three hundred feet above sea-level. This is at Dibiegi, where a hill
rises to an elevation of about seven hundred feet. When approached from
the sea, Gozo appears to lie much lower than Malta proper, and this is
really so. Through the early morning haze, both look like huge marine
monsters sleeping upon the surface of the waters. The hills we have
referred to are singularly conical, but are uniformly flattened at their
tops by the disintegrating process of the elements, causing them to
present the appearance of a myriad little volcanoes, though they are
very innocent of any such dreaded association. In the Hot Lake District
of New Zealand, near Ohinemutu, the author has seen a precisely similar
appearance, but in the latter instance the effect was undoubtedly
produced by volcanic action. The boiling springs, geysers, and hot lakes
of this New Zealand district are almost identical in character with our
Yellowstone Park phenomena. Both must be the result of smouldering fires
far below the surface of the earth. In the New Zealand district an
active volcano is near at hand, which often rages with destructive
force.
Gozo is beautified with occasional groves of trees, which is an
adornment almost entirely wanting in the larger island. These groves,
however, are by no means numerous. The one great deficiency of the group
is the absence of arboreal vegetation, and yet an abundance of trees
could be made to grow and flourish here with very little effort. There
are marl beds which might be utilized for the purpose, situated in
various parts of the islands, besides which, the rocky formation of the
group, as we have shown, is of a porous nature, full of fissures and
crevices, easily admitting the roots of vegetation. There is a tradition
that Malta was once covered with trees, and that they were gradually
sacrificed to meet the demand for fuel and for other purposes. The
cultivation of shade trees about the villages would add an element of
beauty, and would afford needed shade, besides promoting a more liberal
rainfall, which is so very limited here. Some of the Grand Masters have
done much by their personal efforts to induce the planting of fruit and
ornamental trees in and about the city. Several of the squares are thus
beautified, the trees forming an agreeable shade where in midsummer the
glare is almost intolerable in exposed places.
A modern survey shows the circumference of Gozo to be a trifle less than
twenty-five miles. It has been famous from time immemorial for the large
amount and the delicious quality of the honey which its inhabitants send
to market. The thriving fields of red-flowering clover, which is called
_sulla_ by the natives, and which grows to an average height of three
and a half feet, together with an abundance of wild thyme and purple
blooming vetch, afford rich food for the industrious bees and the gaudy
butterflies, "Yellow bees, so mad for love of early-blooming flowers."
The peculiar clover of which we speak is indigenous, and a well-grown
field, each upright stem surmounted by a large crimson flower, looks
more like cultivated roses than simple clover blossoms. When the breeze
sweeps gently over these fields, the eye is delighted by broad waves of
rich color rising and falling in the warm sunshine, while an
indescribable, ripe, harvest smell permeates the atmosphere. The
geranium grows to a mammoth size on this island, and tall, dense, and
secure hedges of it are not uncommon. In full bloom these form a most
striking feature of the landscape, as peculiar as the agave hedges of
Mexico. The former, when wearing their full-dress of scarlet, seem like
a fiery cordon drawn about the spacious area thus inclosed. The latter,
with their pale blue-green sword-like leaves, are as repellent as a line
of fixed bayonets, and absolutely impervious to man or beast. The byways
of the northwestern part of Gozo are delightful, verdant, and pastoral,
while the air is redolent of clover, violets, and hedge roses.
One of the ancient titles of this island was Melita, a name which is
believed to be derived from the excellent honey which it has always
produced. We can honestly testify to the delightful aromatic flavor of
this delicate article. Truly, it is a land flowing with milk and
honey,--Melita, "Isle of Honey,"--its choice goat's milk being also a
staple commodity. As for butterflies, to which we have incidentally
referred, graceful, leisurely, aerial creatures, nowhere outside of
southern India can finer specimens of this beautiful and delicate insect
be found. An enthusiastic German naturalist in Valletta told the author
that he had secured a rich collection in Gozo, and that he was then on
his way to the little island of Filfla to reap a harvest in another
line, namely, among the curious lizard family, which thrive upon its few
square rods of rocky soil.
Who ever traveled in out-of-the-way places abroad, without meeting some
quaint German naturalist, wearing a green woolen cap with an impossible
leather visor, a sort of Dominie Samson, in search of ugly centipedes,
stinging ants, extraordinary spiders, or other hideous bugs? These
"Innocents Abroad" are all alike, wearing gold-bowed spectacles, and
having a chronic disregard for clean linen. One can easily forgive the
butterfly enthusiast, these delightful, innocuous insects, exquisite in
their frailty and variety of colors, are so like animated flowers; but
pray spare us from poisonous bugs, with innumerable crooked legs.
One has not far to go, after landing upon Gozo, before small flocks of
well-conditioned, silky-haired goats begin to appear, intelligent-looking
animals, with large, gazelle-like eyes and transparent ears. They are
generally tended by a barefooted lad or a young girl having the
slenderest amount of covering in the shape of clothes. These boys and
girls, nine or ten years of age, are often strikingly handsome, the
latter betraying a perfection of youthful promise as to form, distinctly
seen through their scanty rags. The boys have the blackest of black
eyes, and the brownest of brown skins, such as one sees among the Moors
who come into Tangier with the caravans arriving from Fez. These sheep
tenders would answer admirably as models for an artist, often
unconsciously assuming artistic poses, forming grand pictures, and
reminding one of the subjects which Murillo delighted in. The quiet
self-possession of these children of nature is both impressive and
significant. They are utterly untaught, but how graceful in every
movement! It would be as impossible for one of them to be awkward as for
a young kitten. Every attitude is statuesque and full of repose. They
have borrowed somewhat of the grandeur of their birthplace, bounded by
wide, untamed waters and limitless sky. As is often noticed among
European peasants thus employed, the girls are always supplied, though
never so young, with some knitting or crochet work which keeps their
fingers fully employed. In the populous centres, men may loaf in the
laziest fashion, and remain quite unemployed, unless it be in the
arduous occupation of smoking rank tobacco, but the women seem to be
instinctively busy at all times.
We are reminded in this connection of another article of production for
which Gozo enjoys a certain and favorable reputation, namely, goat's
cheese, a delicate dairy compound, which should be eaten while it is
quite fresh. It is so well appreciated by the people of Valletta that
little, if any, of the article is ever exported, though choice packages
sometimes find their way to the larder of the P. & O. steamers, much to
the satisfaction of traveling gourmands. The goats raised upon this
island are of a breed which, it would appear, is specially adapted to
the local necessities, having singularly well-developed udders, which
reach nearly to the ground, and yielding milk profusely, while
subsisting upon the most common and inexpensive nourishment. Small herds
of these animals are driven by their owners about the streets of the
capital, and milked at the doors of the consumers, just as one witnesses
to-day in Paris and other continental cities. There is no chance for
adulteration when served after this fashion; and we all know that milk
challenges our credulity more seriously than nearly any other article
of domestic use, where water is so very cheap and accessible.
Cows would require too much pasturage to be profitably kept on these
islands, whereas the hardy goats, as we have said, are cheaply fed and
easily managed. Sheep, which are kept here in considerable numbers, are
quite prolific, often having four lambs at a birth, and rarely less than
two. The cows and oxen which are imported are designed almost entirely
for food, though some few are employed for domestic or farming purposes.
Cattle come almost wholly from the Barbary States. These animals fatten
quickly upon the rich clover, which is so cheap and abundant here, thus
making excellent beef. Asses and mules are the chief means in use for
transportation, and as a rule they are very fine ones. We were told that
Malta-bred animals of this class were in special request throughout
southern Italy. The native owner has an Arab's fondness for his horse or
mule, feeds him abundantly, and cares for him kindly. Animals thus
reared naturally present a better appearance, show finer instincts, and
bring better prices. Those of Gozo are remarkable for their size and
docility.
The gardens of this island supply the citizens of Valletta with nearly
all the vegetables which are required for daily use, together with
fowls, turkeys, and geese. Large quantities of green fodder come from
the same source for the sustenance of the animals kept for use in the
town.
An interesting sight may be enjoyed by going into the principal market
of the capital of Malta, in the rear of the Grand Palace, at early
morning, where one can watch the various products, fodder, fruits, and
vegetables arriving from Gozo. The quantity and excellent condition of
the supply gives promise of good fare at the average tables of the
citizens. Various game birds are seen, also brought from the sister
isle, especially quails. This bird not only breeds freely in the Maltese
group, but comes hither at times from Algeria in large flocks, driven
thence by the close pursuit of the local sportsmen. The Tunisians make a
wholesale slaughter of the quails annually in the month of May, shipping
the game thus secured to France, it being a favorite bird with the
Parisian gourmands. In the mean time the people of Algeria complain of a
fearful increase of the all-devouring locusts, indigenous there, which,
when young, form the food supply of the quails. So all extremes outrage
some clearly-defined law of nature, and entail prompt punishment.
Doubtless the securing of a reasonable number of these birds would do no
harm; but when the pursuit is carried to the verge of extermination,
some penalty must follow.
During the open season, as it is called, the officers of the British
garrison--desperately at a loss, it would seem, to find
amusement--resort to Gozo for quail shooting. There is also a certain
season of the year when a variety of ducks, plover, snipe, and other
aquatic birds may be taken. Only about a score of species of the
feathered tribe make their permanent home in the group; but there are
hundreds seen resting here from time to time, on their migratory course
to other climes. In stormy weather, dead birds are found at the base of
the big lighthouse on Gozo, attracted and half-dazed by the staring eye
of fire piercing the darkness of the night. When flying at great speed,
they are dashed fatally against the stout glass which shelters the
lantern. Similar occurrences are known in Massachusetts Bay, at the
lighthouse on Minot's Ledge, where the keeper is enabled to replenish
his larder with game birds after a hard blow at night. This lighthouse
at Guirdan, Gozo, dominates Cape Demetri, looming far heavenward when
observed from the sea, above which it stands four hundred feet, at once
gladdening and guiding the seamen in the nightwatches.
An attempt was made to introduce hares into Gozo for sporting purposes;
but the residents of the island, with the dire experience of Australia
and New Zealand before them, protested against it, and fortunately
succeeded in averting the dreaded scourge. As is well known, the rabbit
pest in the two countries named has assumed such proportions as to defy
the combined efforts of the settlers to get rid of them. Every green
leaf and tender root which comes in their way is destroyed to appease
the hunger of these rabbits; and vegetation is as effectually
obliterated from the land as would be the case if visited by millions of
locusts.
Let us review, for a moment, the geographical and topographical
character of this island.
Gozo is situated off the northeast end of Malta, from which it is
separated by a deep channel, less than four miles wide, known as the
Straits of Freghi. The principal town and capital is Rabbato, a sleepy,
Old-World metropolis, of very little consequence to the outside world.
It has been named Victoria by the English. The place contains some five
or six thousand inhabitants, besides which there are nine thrifty,
though small, villages upon the island. Lace-making is the almost
universal occupation of the people of Rabbato and its vicinity. The
incessant clicking of the bobbins, driven by deft fingers, greets the
ear on all sides. Of course there is a "Calypso" Hotel ready to capture
the innocent tourist. It is worthy of note that this special industry of
fine lace-making should have prevailed so long in Gozo. For aught that
is known, it may have originated here. It is certain that its popularity
dates long prior to the Roman colonization in the Maltese group. Common
usage does not retain the title given to the capital in compliment to
Queen Victoria of England, and in honor of the Jubilee year. It is
popularly known, as it certainly should continue to be, by its original
name.
Rabbato is situated very near the centre of the island, on one of a
group of conical hills. The citadel overlooking the place is partially
in ruins, but was once quite a substantial and extensive fortification,
being over half a mile in circumference. Whoever selected the spot as a
stronghold could hardly have realized that it was commanded by more
than one elevation in the immediate vicinity. Where its walls are not
raised upon the edge of a precipitous cliff, it is approached by very
steep stone steps, which could only be surmounted by an enemy under a
concentrated fire from several points. The place has a deep ditch after
the style of the Valletta fortifications, but this old stronghold is
rapidly crumbling to pieces. It was a mistake to select this spot for
the capital, if for no other reason than on account of the absence of a
good water supply. At the Bay of Marsa-el-Forno, near at hand, there is
not only a good harbor, but excellent drinking-water in abundance, while
the fertile soil makes a charmingly verdant neighborhood. There are some
delightful summer residences on the shore of this bay, the resort of
citizens who come hither from Valletta in the "heated term." Only those
foreigners whose official duties compel them to do so brave the summer
heat of Malta in the capital. The naval vessels which have wintered here
disperse to their several stations at that season, and invalids return
to England or elsewhere.
Rabbato was chosen as the capital of Gozo for the same reason,
doubtless, that Madrid was made the seat of government for Spain,
because it was so nearly the exact centre of the country, while almost
every other recommendation is wanting in both instances. The same remark
applies to Citta Vecchia, the ancient capital of Malta proper. The small
city of Rabbato contains a couple of fairly good hotels, a Jesuit
college, a cathedral, and two or three convents. Without wishing to
discourage the curious traveler from doing so, we would suggest that
when he visits the capital of Gozo, he go prepared to repel an army of
mosquitoes. The neighborhood is famous for this insect pest. The guide,
native and to the manner born, remarked that they never troubled him,
but devoted their attention entirely to strangers, which affords no
consolation to the afflicted.
The visitor finds in this neighborhood some very interesting
Phoenician and Roman remains, but mostly of the former and earlier
race of colonists upon the island.
Among the antiquities is one very remarkable ruin known as La Torre de
Giganti, "the Giant's Tower," which is probably the remains of a
prehistoric sacred temple, whose builders bowed before the image of
Baal. The careful study of antiquarians points to the fact of its having
been formerly the temple of Astarte, the Phoenician Venus. There are
others who attribute this ancient monument to a people who inhabited the
group before the nomadic tribes of Tyre and Sidon formed a colony in
Malta. This singular edifice, be its original purpose what it may, is
constructed of stones laid in a very skillful manner, no mortar being
used. The builders must have possessed admirable and efficient tools;
there is evidence enough to prove this in the careful finish shown in
many places. They must also have used powerful machinery to properly
adjust such heavy blocks in place. The great antiquity of the Giant's
Tower is undisputed. Its style antedates both the Greek and the Roman
examples which have been spared to us, and it is plainly the work of a
primitive people. It is situated on an eminence not far from Casal
Shaara, and forms a large inclosure with walls of great thickness. In
shape it is a circular tower open at the top, not unlike the "Towers of
Silence" which form the Parsee edifices near Bombay used for the
disposal of the dead. In this tower at Gozo, doubtless, the rites of
fire were celebrated; human victims were probably sacrificed here, and
their bodies burned. Fire, it will be remembered, was the symbol under
which ancient tribes worshiped the sun. The character of this tower is
also emphasized by a carved serpent cut in the solid stone, an emblem of
religious veneration among the ancient people of the East. Egyptian gods
were often represented with the bodies of serpents.
Even in our day, certain sects among the Japanese venerate this reptile
as sacred. In Benares, India, bulls, elephants, and monkeys are held to
be representatives of divinity. The author has seen in the Temple of
Honan, at Canton, China, a pen of "sacred" hogs! In the sincere struggle
to find some element as representative of the Great and Good, before
which to bow down and worship, for these singular devotional freaks seem
to be the outcome of such a purpose, one would think that the wildest
fanaticism must surely stop short of such excessive grossness.
Touching this most interesting Gozo tower, which it is not unreasonable
to say may have stood here for some three thousand years, it shows that
the builders, whoever they were, did their work thoroughly. It is
entered by two massive doorways, twenty feet in height and five or six
wide. The interior is cut up into various apartments, the use of which
can only be conjectured. The diameter of the whole is about ninety feet,
a considerable portion being paved with large, hewn stones. The whole is
supported by a foundation which no earthquake has yet been able to
undermine, though, as we are aware, the island has experienced many
shocks.