The Climate of Malta.--The Furious Gregale.--Liability to
Sunstroke.--The African Sirocco.--Cloudless Days.--A Health
Resort.--English Church.--View of Etna.--Volcanic
Disturbances.--Will Malta Eventually Disappear?--Native
Flora.--Flower-Girls of Valletta.--Absence of Lakes and
Rivers.--The Moon-Flower.--Grand Stone Aqueduct.--After the
Roman Plan of Building.--Fountains.--Results of Irrigation.
The climate of Malta is a subject of more than ordinary importance. The
air and sky are African, though its life and associations are strongly
European. The winter temperature--December and January--very rarely
falls below 50 deg. Fahr., and though hail-storms do sometimes visit the
islands, at rare intervals, snow is unknown. The season when such
unwelcome visitations occur is very short. An entire day devoid of
sunshine, even in the winter months, is unusual. It is not without
interest to know that the longest day in this region is fifteen hours
less eight minutes. In summer the thermometer rises to 85 deg., and even
95 deg., in the shade, while the direct rays of the sun are then almost
unbearable by human beings, and especially by unacclimated foreigners.
_Coups de soleil_ are not uncommon in the ranks of the soldiery. Those
familiar with the life of Grand Master La Vallette will remember that he
died from sunstroke received here in 1557. A brief exposure to the
sun's heat cost the life of the hardy old soldier who had survived so
many dangerous wounds received on the battlefield. It is a saying in
Malta that only newly arrived tourists and mad dogs expose themselves to
the blaze of the midday summer sun. Even the natives are cautious in
this respect.
The temperature drops rapidly when the fierce wind known as the gregale
prevails, blowing from the northeast across the Ionian Sea directly into
the Grand Harbor of Valletta. When this wind occurs, the blue of the sky
turns to a dull leaden hue; clouds troop up from the east in close
phalanxes; the birds fly low, uttering ominous cries; and all nature
seems to be in the throes of distress. An evil wind,--sometimes it is of
such force as to drive the largest vessels from their moorings, while it
makes sad havoc among the lesser craft. On such occasions, everything
afloat which can be so handled is hauled up on the shore, which is the
usual mode of securing small vessels all along the shores of the
Mediterranean to-day, just as it has been for centuries. The natives who
navigate these waters have quite a reputation as efficient mariners; but
they do not compare favorably with either American or European sailors
in this respect. They are not seamen of the long voyage, who have
learned to contend successfully with the ocean when in its wildest
moods. Their instinct is to run at once for a safe harbor when a storm
threatens. So with the mariners of the Red Sea, between Aden and Suez,
who will not venture out of port if the hot winds of that region blow
too hard to permit a candle to burn on the forecastle of their vessels.
Asiatics, as a rule, are poor seamen.
A pampero at Montevideo or a norther at Vera Cruz is not much more
disagreeable and destructive than is the gregale at Malta (the
"Euroclydon" of the Scriptures). Nor is one other dreaded visitor much
less objectionable; that is, a strong wind rising on the Egyptian coast,
which, sweeping hitherward, wraps an unwelcome mantle of cold gray mist
about the Maltese group.
This bit of terra firma is so isolated and exposed on all sides that
when any severe weather prevails in "the great middle sea," it must
encounter its entire force. In summer the heat is often aggravated by
the sirocco, a humid, wilting, scorching wind which blows from the
southeast across the African desert, sometimes charged with a fine,
penetrating dust, for which it is difficult satisfactorily to account.
This wind, on leaving Africa, is quite dry; but when it reaches Malta,
having traversed a long expanse of sea, it becomes heavily charged with
vapor, without losing the heat which it borrowed in passing over the
African desert. It subjects those whom it encounters to something very
like a steam bath. Yet regardless of all drawbacks, whose importance we
are by no means inclined to exaggerate, the average winter weather is
considered by many Europeans to be delightful and wholesome, attracting
scores of English invalids and others annually, who are in search of a
temporary home abroad to avoid the dreary London season of fog and
gloom. After giving the subject considerable attention, together with
careful inquiries of local authorities, the author came to the
conclusion that Malta was not a very desirable resort for consumptives;
nor should it be forgotten that a low form of typhoid fever is common
much of the year in Valletta. The dreaded African wind just described
prevails in September and October, often blowing for three or four
consecutive days. It must be a sound constitution which can successfully
withstand its enervating influence. An invalid quickly loses appetite,
courage, and even physical capacity to walk any distance, when the
sirocco prevails.
The winds of the Mediterranean are so regular in their occurrence as to
be easily and correctly anticipated at their proper seasons. This was
understood, and attracted special notice, even in ancient times. "The
wind goeth toward the south, and turneth about unto the north; it
whirleth about continually, and the wind returneth again according to
his circuits" (Ecclesiastes i. 6).
The seasons are divided here into five winter and five summer months,
spring and autumn being each one month in duration. Winter begins in the
middle of November; summer, in the middle of May. The winds are rather
cool in winter unless they blow from the southwest. When they come from
other quarters, they pass over snow-clad mountains, the Atlas range,
those of Corsica or Sardinia, and the hoary brow of AEtna. The chief
advantage of this island group as a winter resort for those in delicate
health is the large proportion of sunny, cloudless days, while the main
drawback is the occasional fierceness of the winds. This sums up the
matter in brief.
A book has been lately issued from the press, written by one who
traveled eastward, entitled "Seeking the Sun." It is to be hoped that
the author was successful in his search. If not, let him visit Malta,
not forgetting to take with him a white umbrella. It is useless to look
for a land without climatic objections. The difference between Malta and
the famous Riviera on the opposite coast of the mainland is, upon the
whole, very slight. At Nice and Mentone, in fact all along that favorite
coast bordering the Mediterranean, the mistral is the bane of the
health-seeker; while in this group the gregale is the twin evil. This
minute mention is made for the sake of completeness. On the whole, the
Maltese climate is equable and mild. It is not so dry, atmospherically,
as Algiers, Tangier, or Egypt; but it is quite as warm. As is generally
the case throughout the Mediterranean basin, the difference in
temperature between night and day is scarcely two degrees. Uniformity in
this respect is a great desideratum, and it is certainly to be found
here. The author has realized a difference of thirty-three degrees
Fahrenheit within twenty-four hours in Cairo, Egypt, and also in St.
Augustine, Florida.
Malta was first rendered popular among English health-seekers by the
visit, for this purpose, of Dowager Queen Adelaide, widow of William
IV., who passed the winter of 1836 on the island, with decided advantage
to her physical condition.
The Dowager Queen evinced her gratitude for restored health by erecting
here an Episcopal place of worship, known as the Church of St. Paul,
situated on the Piazza Gelsi. It is a plain edifice, both inside and
out, but of chaste and elegant Grecian design. The old palace of the
German branch of the Knights of St. John was torn down to afford a site
for this church, the construction of which drew upon the generous
donor's purse to the extent of one hundred thousand dollars. Its tall,
pointed spire is quite conspicuous, in a general view of the town, the
architecture being so in contrast with its surroundings. There was a
bitter but useless opposition made by the arrogant Roman Catholic
priesthood of Malta against its construction. The priesthood, however,
soon found that they had to deal with a power that could crush their
influence in the group altogether, if it chose to do so, and were forced
to eat humble pie, after exposing their spirit of bigotry. This church
has a fine set of bells, and contains a valuable theological library.
The Dowager Queen also established an infant school or kindergarten,
with an English lady teacher, which proved to be a decided success, and
a revelation to this isolated community as regarded the education of
children. It proved to be a spur to mental culture in older persons, who
saw, with surprise, children five or six years of age able to read and
to answer simple questions in arithmetic, as well as exhibiting ripening
intelligence concerning everything about them. This admirable example
was not without its due effect upon the government. There are to-day ten
infant schools and seventy-six primary schools in the city of Valletta.
The visit of the Queen Dowager lasted three months, during which time
she endeared herself very much to the Maltese by her kindness and
consideration.
The excellent and melodious organ used in St. Paul's Church was removed
from the cathedral in the quaint old city of Chester, England, where it
had long served its purpose, being replaced there by a very superior
modern instrument.
The atmosphere of this region is so clear that the grand, solitary,
sulphurous cone of Mount AEtna can be sometimes seen, though it is
situated a hundred and thirty miles away, in Sicily. The coast,
stretching east and west from Cape Passaro, which is the nearest point
to the Maltese islands, is also occasionally visible. The mountain, when
seen against the northern sky, assumes the shape of an irregular cone
with a widespread base. Some not clearly understood law of refraction
must aid the human vision to discern these objects at such great
distances beyond the horizon. The most favorable time of the day to seek
a view of far-away AEtna is at sunrise or near sunset. The reader
familiar with the White Mountains of New Hampshire has doubtless seen
Portland harbor, in the State of Maine, from the top of Mount
Washington, though this is a distance of about eighty miles. In this
case, the object which is sighted at such long range is at sea level,
while AEtna is over ten thousand feet above the surface of the
Mediterranean Sea. Sailors describe the view of far-distant objects as
promoted by "atmospheric looming," which perhaps applies in this
instance, when one not only sees the low-lying coast of Italy, but it
appears to be hardly more than twenty or thirty miles away.
The idea of this group of islands being in some way connected, beneath
the bed of the sea, with the volcano just named is no longer
entertained. The Maltese islands have often experienced severe shocks of
earthquake, but, so far as is known, never at the time when AEtna was in
eruption. Sir Walter Scott, in his journal, mentions having experienced
a shock while he was on a visit to the island, of which the inhabitants
seemed to take little, if any, notice, showing that it was not a very
uncommon occurrence. On the Pacific side of South America, say at
Valparaiso, it must be a very decided demonstration of this sort to
cause remark. The most destructive earthquake in Malta of which we can
find any record was in 1693, when the shocks were quite severe, and
continued at brief intervals for three successive days, producing great
consternation and injury. No loss of life is mentioned as having
occurred, but the dwelling-houses and fortifications of Valletta
suffered considerably, and one or two churches were nearly destroyed in
the city. At Citta Vecchia, in the middle of the larger island, the
dome, towers, and in fact the entire walls of the cathedral were leveled
with the ground by a succession of violent shocks.
There is a remarkable tradition, which has been handed down from
generation to generation for centuries past, that the time will come
when Malta and its dependencies will be swallowed up by the sea, and
that where it is now so securely anchored the Mediterranean will be
navigable for ships of any size. When we recall the fact that, within
the memory of many of us, an island suddenly appeared off the shore of
Malta, between here and the coast of Sicily, so large as to be formally
taken possession of by Great Britain (called Graham's Island), but which
has since totally disappeared, so that the sea is as deep over the spot
where it stood as it is anywhere in the vicinity, the possibility of the
prediction relating to Malta does not seem to be so very unreasonable.
The only marvel is that the probability of such an event should have
been predicted so long ago, and that we should have seen in the present
century an exemplification of just such an occurrence in the appearance
and disappearance of the island just spoken of, so very near Malta.
The Mediterranean constitutes the greatest marine highway in the world,
a fact which particularly impresses one who has traversed nearly all the
lonely seas and oceans known to navigators. It is seldom that some sail
or island is not in sight from the deck beneath one's feet, while
mammoth steamships are constantly met speeding to or from European or
Asiatic ports, leaving in their wake two marked features, one of dark
wreathing smoke, reaching skyward, and the other of bright, mingled
colors upon the frothy sea. Over the seething waters thus churned into a
Milky Way, in the wake of the steamships, hover flocks of broad-winged,
snow-plumed gulls, watching for bits of marine food, or for scraps
thrown from the ships' galleys, while filling the air with their rude,
contentious cries.
The native flora of Malta is of a character similar to that of Sicily
and northern Africa. The same semi-tropical species prevail, with but
few exceptions, and where there is sufficient soil to permit, there is
the same wild exuberance of vegetation. It was early in March when the
author first landed at Valletta, a most propitious date for a first
impression. The trees were in full bloom within the sheltering walls of
the city, the lovely blossoms of the fruit trees being especially
conspicuous, while every available nook and corner was beautified by a
display of fragrant flowers in great variety. Among these were
heliotrope, pinks, tulips, hyacinths, pansies, roses, and daffodils,
"that come before the swallow dares." Many balconies of the
dwelling-houses were wreathed with creeping vines, among which a cluster
of scarlet bloom caught the eye here and there, relieved by pale blue
and pink fuchsias. Choice bouquets were selling on the streets for a few
pennies each, the pretty Maltese girls displaying exquisite taste in
the arrangement of colors relieved by backgrounds of maidenhair ferns.
Mingled with these charming flowers some very beautiful orchids were
seen, though we were told that they were not in their prime so early in
the year. To one fresh from a long sea voyage, it seemed as though a
floral carnival was in full tide,--a revel of roses. This queen of
flowers, together with violets, both of which grow here in profusion,
was famous even in Cicero's time, when luxurious Romans reclined upon
pillows stuffed with the odorous leaves. The Mediterranean sun and light
appear to intensify the native color of every blossom and every flower.
Was it a passing fancy only, or do these children of Flora sacrifice in
a degree their normal fragrance in order to assume this extraordinary
vividness of complexion? One is reminded of the gaudy birds of the
tropics. Those of most vivid and brilliant plumage have not the
exquisite sweetness of song which characterizes our more soberly clad
favorites of the colder north. No zone monopolizes perfection;
compensation is sure to peep out somewhere. If a certain charm or
endowment be wanting, there is sure to be some equivalent furnished.
One floral gem is especially remembered which was shown to us in a
private garden near the Porta Reale, and which was indeed a novelty. It
is called in Malta the moon-flower, and its hour of bloom is at
eventide. It never sees the sun, folding its leaves at the first gleam
of the dawn. The flower is ermine white, like the snowy japonica, and
is nearly as scentless as that regal flower. So the lily-like
night-blooming cereus of the Bahamas opens its petals at sunset, and
closes them at the break of day.
There are no rivers, natural lakes, or running streams worthy of the
name on these islands, but there are numerous excellent never-failing
springs, whose overflow is improved for irrigating purposes, and whose
regular supply has been carefully utilized for a period of over two
centuries by means of a system of waterworks of a very substantial
character. This important work was begun in 1610, and finished in 1615.
The winter rains are fairly abundant in the months of December, January,
and February. The water from this source is saved for domestic use by
means of ample stone cisterns, nearly every dwelling-house being thus
provided. The grand aqueduct which furnishes the city with
drinking-water is over nine miles long, finding its chief fountain-head
at Diaz Chandal, not far from Citta Vecchia. In order to insure a full
supply, several springs were united by means of subterranean conduits,
so that the combined water flows towards the capital in one large
channel. As far as Casal Attard the aqueduct is under ground; from this
point it rises and disappears according to the undulations of the
surface of the island. These springs are never affected by drought, and
as to the quality of the water, we can bear testimony to its purity and
excellence. In its course, the water passes over a line of many hundred
substantial stone arches, picturesque to look upon, but entirely
superfluous. It is built after the old Roman style, being raised to a
level across the valleys and depressions. These people did not know that
water will always rise to the height of its source. The Romans showed
the same want of knowledge regarding this, the simplest law of
hydraulics; _vide_ the graceful, half-ruined arches which cross the
Campagna to the very gates of the "Eternal City." The principal outlet
of this Maltese aqueduct is a conspicuous and ornamental fountain in the
square of St. George, fronting the old palace of the Grand Masters. From
here the water is distributed by conduits, which extend to various parts
of the town and fortifications. There are over fifty public fountains in
Valletta. Some of these at times exhibit novel pictures, when the people
in characteristic groups gather about them for their supplies.
Such a system of waterworks, built in the old style as described, must
have cost an extravagant sum of money, but the Knights of St. John did
not lack for ample means to perfect any undertaking which might conduce
to their health or comfort, and, it may be added also, which would
contribute to their luxurious mode of living.
In the course of time, this first aqueduct proving to be inadequate to
the demand, a second one was added. The new iron supply pipes were laid
after the modern style,--that is, under ground; and as Valletta is
situated at a lower level than the springs from which the water is
derived, the arrangement works admirably. It is still necessary, as we
have said, to preserve all the rainwater possible, for domestic use. In
a climate like that of Malta, the consumption of water is much larger
per capita than is usually the case in more temperate regions. The
amount used for irrigating purposes alone is very large; the prevailing
fertility is to be attributed nearly as much to ample moisture as to the
free use of domestic refuse for enrichment of the soil. The average
annual rainfall is a little less than twenty-three inches, which would
be entirely insufficient to sustain vegetation without artificial
irrigation.
It was thought that the dry, cracked soil of the pampas of Australia was
nearer to positive sterility than that of any known region; but when
water was flowed liberally over experimental portions, and the seed, was
planted without the application of any other fertilizer, in due time
"the soil laughed with a harvest." In China and Japan, the patient
husbandmen water their gardens, however extensive they may be, entirely
by hand, except the rice-fields, which, being planted in low and marshy
soil, are artificially flooded twice or three times each season. These
Asiatics have found that serving each individual plant in just
proportions produces grand results at harvest time.
Before describing Valletta, the unique and fascinating capital of Malta,
in detail, we will ask the reader to accompany us to the adjacent island
of Gozo. In coming from the west it is seen before Malta proper, and in
point of historic remains is quite as interesting, while in natural
verdure it far excels the larger and more populous island, from which it
was doubtless detached by some great convulsion of nature in prehistoric
times.
To reach Gozo from Valletta, a boat taken at Quarantine Harbor will land
the visitor at the shallow bay of Migiarro, on the southeastern
extremity of the island, amid a fleet of fishing-boats, hauled high and
dry upon the shelving strand. The boats are called _speronari_, and are
as buoyant and fleet as a sea-bird flying before the wind. They are
pointed at both ends, the prow terminating at a height of two feet above
the level of the thwarts. They have retained their peculiar shape for
centuries. It is always interesting to pause here for a few moments, to
take note of the abundance and excellence of the fish brought in by the
boatmen just arrived from their early morning excursion offshore. The
variety and redundancy of aquatic life in this latitude is something
marvelous.