TRANSACTIONS AT NORFOLK ISLAND
February 1790 to February 1791
-The Sirius and Supply sail for Norfolk
Island.--Land the marines and convicts.--Wreck of the
Sirius.--Some provisions saved.--Martial Law established.--Ratio
of provisions settled.--Vast numbers of birds caught.--In
distress for provisions.--Receive a supply from Port
Jackson.--Officers and crew of the Sirius leave Norfolk Island,
and arrive at Port Jackson.--Norfolk Island described.--Its
situation and extent.--Soil.--Climate, etc.--Table of Winds,
etc.-
In February, we began to look a little serious on our
disappointment of arrivals: we had not now more than provisions
till June, at the allowance I have already mentioned. The
governor now saw a necessity for dividing the settlement, and
signified his intention that such division should take place
soon, by sending a certain number of marines and convicts, under
the command of Major Ross, the lieutenant-governor, to Norfolk
Island; at which place he understood there were many resources,
which Port Jackson, or the country round it, did not afford; and
the gardens and cultivated lands here also would then be more
enjoyed by the remaining numbers.
Accordingly an arrangement took place, and on the 26th of
February, I received an order to prepare the Sirius for sea, and
to embark the lieutenant-governor, with one company of marines,
and the officers, baggage, and also 186 convicts; in all, 221
persons; with such a proportion of the remaining provisions and
other stores, as the settlement at that time could furnish; and I
was directed to land them upon Norfolk Island: Lieutenant Ball,
commander of his Majesty's armed tender Supply, was ordered under
my command, and he also embarked a company of marines, and twenty
convicts.
We sailed from Port Jackson on the 6th of March, and the wind
being from the westward, we made Lord Howe's Island on the 9th,
at four in the afternoon, bearing east-north-east, distant about
16 or 18 leagues. The south end of this island is two very high
mountains, nearly perpendicular from the sea; those hills are the
only land you see until you come within six or seven leagues,
when the lower land begins to appear, extending from the foot of
the mountains, northward: it was calm most of the night, with now
and then a light air, with which, and an easterly set of current,
which is generally found here, we were enabled to get in with the
land by noon of the 10th. I made the Latitude of the southermost
hill:
(Mount Gower) 31° 35' S.
Longitude, by time-keeper, 159° 10' 30" E. of Greenwich.
Longitude, by distance of the sun and moon, taken at 10, A. M.
159° 08' 00" E.
There is a very remarkable rock, which lies about 12 or 14
miles to the southward of the island, and which is named
Ball's-pyramid, and has much the appearance of a church steeple
at a distance; but as you come near, it is exceedingly high and
perpendicular: we passed in the evening between the island and
the pyramid, and had 26 fathoms within two miles of Mount Gower,
over a rocky bottom. This island I judge to be about three miles
and a half long, north-north-west and south-south-east; it is
very narrow across. There is anchorage on both sides of it, but
the bottom is foul. On the west side there is a bay, off which
lies a reef parallel to the shore, with good swatches, or
passages through for boats; this reef breaks off the sea from the
shore, which is a fine sandy beach, so that there is no
difficulty in landing. I have observed before, that turtle are
sometimes caught here, and that there are many birds upon the
island.
On the 13th, at two o'clock in the morning, we made Norfolk
Island, which I did not expect we should have done quite so soon,
but the easterly current, which is commonly found here, had been
strong: we brought to till day-light, and then, as the wind was
fresh from the south-west, I well knew there could be no landing
in Sydney-bay, where the settlement is fixed, on account of the
high surf, which southerly winds occasion, I therefore bore away,
and ran round to the north-east side of the island into a bay
called Cascade-bay; where, after a few days of moderate weather,
and an off-shore wind, it is possible to land; but that only on
one spot, which is a rock that projects some distance into the
sea, and has deep water to it: on that rock I landed, on the
afternoon of the 13th, all the marines, and a considerable number
of the convicts, but being set to the eastward in the night, I
did not land the remainder until the 15th, when they were also
put on shore on the same place.
These people were no sooner on shore than the wind shifted to
the eastward, and the weather became hazy and blew strong, so
that I had no prospect of being able to land any part of the
provisions. We had put on shore from the Sirius and Supply 270
people, and had no opportunity of sending any stores with them,
as we were now driven out of sight of the island. I knew the
exhausted state of the stores there; I was also acquainted with
the many difficulties which Lieutenant Ball, commander of the
Supply, had met with in the different voyages he had made from
Port Jackson to this island, with provisions; and the length of
time he had, in some of these voyages, been obliged to cruize,
before he could have any access to the shore; so continually does
the surf break all round it: these considerations gave me much
anxiety and uneasiness.
On the 19th, a slant wind from the south-east brought me again
in with the island: the Supply had the preceding night parted
company, but as they were better acquainted here than we were, I
judged they had stood for the land in the night before I did. As
we stood in, finding we could fetch the windward part of the
island, I steered in for Sydney-bay; and as we drew near, I
observed the Supply lying to in the bay, and the signal upon the
shore was flying, that long-boats, or any other boats might land,
without any danger from the surf. Anxious to avail myself of this
favourable signal, I steered in as far as I judged safe, and
brought to with the ship's head off shore, in the south-east or
windward part of the bay, hoisted out the boats, loaded them with
provisions, and sent them in; but observing that the ship settled
fast to leeward, we made sail, and immediately hauled on board
the fore and main tacks, the Supply had also made sail, and was
to leeward of the Sirius.
There is a reef of sunken rocks, which lies off the west point
of the bay, and which (as the wind freshened and the sea rose)
broke a considerable way out; the Supply having drawn a-head,
could not weather this reef: on this she tacked; and, as we drew
near, I plainly perceived that we settled so fast to leeward that
we should not be able to weather it: so, after standing as near
as was safe, we put the ship in stays; she came up almost head to
wind, but the wind just at that critical moment baffled her, and
she fell off again: nothing could now be done, but to wear her
round in as little room as possible, which was done, and the wind
hauled upon the other tack, with every sail set as before; but,
still perceiving that the ship settled into the bay, and that she
shoaled the water, some hands were placed by one of the bower
anchors, in five fathoms water; the helm was again put down, and
she had now some additional after-sail, which I had no doubt
would ensure her coming about; she came up almost head to wind,
and there hung some time; but by her sails being all a back, had
fresh stern way: the anchor was therefore cut away, and all the
haulyards, sheets, and tacks let go, but before the cable could
be brought to check her, she struck upon a reef of coral rocks
which lies parallel to the shore, and in a few strokes was
bulged.
When the carpenter reported to me, that the water flowed fast
into the hold; I ordered the masts to be cut away, which was
immediately done. There was some chance, when the ship was
lightened of this weight, that by the surges of the sea, which
were very heavy, she might be thrown so far in up the reef, as to
afford some prospect of saving the lives of those on board, if
she should prove strong enough to bear the shocks she received
from every sea.
It was now about eleven o'clock in the forenoon, and after the
masts were gone, all hands were employed in getting out of the
hold such provisions as could be come at, and securing them upon
the gun-deck, that they might be at hand in case any opportunity
offered of floating them on shore.
In the evening the wind freshened still more, and the surf was
considerably increased; in consequence of which, it was strongly
recommended by the gentlemen on shore, who knew the place much
better than we could, that every person should quit the ship: for
this purpose the end of a small rope was floated through the
surf, and over the reef, to the shore, by an empty cask; and by
that rope a seven inch hawser was hauled on shore, with a wooden
heart upon it for a traveller, and the end was made fast to a
tree.
By this traveller I corresponded with those on shore, and
received their opinions. To the traveller three or four sailors
at a time were made fast, and were hauled by the people on shore
through the surf, and over a ragged reef to the land; another
part this evening, and the remainder the next day. The whole crew
were intended to have been landed that night, but when it became
dark the hauling rope of the traveller got often foul of the
rocks, which might have occasioned the drowning of those who were
at such a time on the traveller: for the long scope of hawser
(nearly the length of two hawsers) by the weight of three or four
people, was more than two-thirds of the way in the surf, and the
men on it under water.
The second day after the landing of the crew, the weather
being more moderate, and the surf less dangerous, a few of the
seamen, who could depend, in case of accident, upon their good
swimming, were got on board by the hawser, and the utmost
exertion used to get some part of the provisions sent on shore;
but it was the fifth day before any could be landed.
We were now upon this little island 506 souls, upon half
allowance of provisions; and that could, with our present
numbers, last but a very short time; as the supply intended for
the island was yet on board the Sirius; and consequently its
safety very uncertain.
Providence was kind to us. We had for several days the weather
fine, and the surf uncommonly smooth, for this place: for
although there was a continual surf breaking upon the ship, and
all the way between her and the shore, yet it was considered here
as uncommonly smooth: each of those fine days we got on shore
from twenty to thirty casks of provisions, with various other
articles of both public and private property; such articles as
would swim were entrusted to the chance of being thrown on shore
by the surf: all that I or any other officer saved, was found
washing upon the beach; but as the shore was lined with the
marines, to prevent the convicts from committing depredations, it
was much, but not wholly prevented. Every thing which came on
shore was placed under the care of centinels, until claimed by
the proprietor, before certain officers.
But that success which attended those things that were
committed to the sea, proved at last a misfortune; for it
occasioned their trusting every thing promiscuously of private
property to the surf; by which many valuable articles of mine and
some of the officers were lost, being too heavy to float, a
circumstance that those who threw them overboard had not
considered. The provisions being the first object, nothing
besides was allowed to be sent by the traveller; and
notwithstanding it was all dragged through the sea, the damaged
part was but trifling. Some casks were washed out of the slings,
dashed to pieces upon the rocks, and of course lost; but, taking
the whole together, we saved more provisions than we could have
reasonably expected.
By the time we had landed the principal part of the
provisions, the weather began to be rather unfavourable to our
wishes and endeavours; the wind set in from the southward, the
sea rose and occasioned a very high surf, which rendered it
unsafe for any person to remain on board; the small bower cable,
which had hitherto kept the ship's head to the sea, being cut by
the rocks, and the ship being considerably lightened by what had
been taken out of her, she was lifted so high by every sea, as to
occasion her striking very heavily; and by those repeated shocks
she was thrown for a short time broad-side to the sea: had she
kept in that position, she would soon have gone to pieces; but
from her being very light forward, the iron ballast having dropt
out of her bottom, she was lifted fairly round, and was thrown
more than her own length nearer to the shore, and was, by this
change in her position, almost out of the reach of the break of
the sea; that is, the surf, which before generally broke upon
her, now broke outside, and its force was considerably spent,
before it reached her; so that when the weather was moderate and
the surf low, we got with more ease on board, and could remain
there with less danger.
One of the bow ports was enlarged for the purpose of getting
casks and other parcels out; the hauser and traveller were also
fitted and hove taught from the bow, and various stores were sent
on shore with more ease and certainty than before; but the knees
of the beams, being many of them broke, and the ends of the beams
being dislodged from the clamps, the orlop deck blown up, and the
lower deck beams loose, and many of them broken, it was dangerous
to attempt going into the hold; for by every stroke of the sea,
the decks were all in motion: however, every thing that could be
got at by the sailors on board was sent on shore.
A few days after the unfortunate loss of the Sirius, the
ship's company being all on shore, with very little provisions on
the island for so great a number of people, and the supply from
the wreck being yet in a very precarious situation, the
lieutenant-governor assembled all the officers in the settlement
together; and in order that the description of people now among
us in so considerable a number, (I mean the convicts, who I
believe to have been some of the worst characters ever sent from
Great-Britain) should fear the commission of any crime here, more
than they had ever done under the laws hitherto established in
this settlement, it was unanimously judged necessary for the
general safety and good of the whole, that martial law be now
established in this island until such time as we might be
relieved from the distressing prospect that was now before us, by
a supply of provisions, or until the governor in chief of his
Majesty's territory in this part of the world might think fit,
either to approve or disapprove of it.
The necessity of such a measure in the situation we were now
reduced to, I apprehend, will be apparent to every considerate
person. By the proclamation of the law martial, which was
generally consented to, not by an oath, as I believe is commonly
the case, where it is found necessary: but, the service we had to
perform not admitting of the delay that such ceremony would have
occasioned, the general approbation was taken by every individual
passing under the king's colours, which were displayed for that
purpose; _that ceremony_ every person was previously
informed would be considered as an assent, and which was done
with a degree of solemnity, and at the same time an apparent
chearfulness through the whole.
By this proclamation of the law martial, much mischief I am of
opinion was prevented: hitherto, every convict, or any other
person on this island, who had committed any crime which merited
a trial by the criminal court, were to be sent the first
opportunity to Port Jackson, with all the necessary evidence, and
there to be tried. This, in our situation, would have been
attended with innumerable inconveniences and many bad
consequences, which, as I have already said, I confidently
believe were prevented by this proclamation; which may be said to
have been held out in terrorem only: for, during the whole time
of its existence, we had but once occasion to put it in force;
the fear of an immediate trial, and, if found guilty, immediate
execution, kept every body tolerably honest and attentive to the
necessary duties, which it became the whole of us now to look
forward to.
As the Supply tender sailed from this island on the 24th of
March, which was the fifth day after the loss of the Sirius, and
we had not at that time been able to get any part of the
provisions from the wreck; she could not carry to the governor
any certain account, whether we should or should not be able to
get any thing on shore, to help out the very scanty proportion of
provisions which now remained in the store; we therefore
entertained a glimmering of hope that she might, in the course of
five or six weeks, return to us with the very comfortable news of
arrivals from England.
However, after the expiration of that time, during which we
looked anxiously to the sea, our situation began to wear a very
alarming aspect. We now had no doubt, but that in consequence of
a disappointment in the expected arrivals, the governor had found
it necessary to dispatch Lieutenant Ball to some European
settlement, and that he could not relieve us with provisions from
Port Jackson. In consequence of this deplorable situation, on the
14th of May, the officers composing the council met the
lieutenant-governor agreeable to appointment, and published the
following orders:--
"At a meeting of the governor and council held to
consider of the very exhausted state of the provisions in this
settlement, and to consult upon what means are most proper to be
pursued, in order to preserve life until such time as we may be
relieved by some arrivals from England, of which we have been so
long in expectation, but probably disappointed by some
unfortunate accident having happened to the ships intended for
this country. The state of the provisions having been laid before
the council, and the alarming situation of the settlement having
been taken into the most serious consideration, the following
ratio of provisions was unanimously resolved and ordered to take
place on Saturday the 15th instant, viz.
Flour--three pounds per week, for every grown
person.
Beef--one pound and an half per ditto; or, in lieu of
the beef.
17 ounces of pork.
Rice--one pound per ditto.
Children above twelve months old, half the above
ratio. Children under twelve months old, one pound and an half of
flour and a pound of rice per week. In future, all crimes which
may by any three members of the council be considered as not of a
capital nature, will be punished at their discretion, by a
farther reduction of the present allowance of
provisions."
Every day, and during every breeze from the westward, we now
looked out upon the sea; but on this unfrequented ocean we could
expect nothing to appear but what might be intended for us. Day
after day we talked to each other respecting our situation, as no
other subject seemed to occupy the mind of any one among us. We
were here situated upon an island of only five miles long, and
three in breadth, three hundred leagues from the nearest part of
the Coast of New South Wales, deprived of every hope of finding
any relief by a change of situation, and we had the additional
mortification of anticipating, in a short time, a farther
reduction of our allowance of provisions.
At this particular season we had one advantage, which, when
that leaves us, will reduce us to very great distress; I think,
then, that many of the convicts (who are indolent to
astonishment, and who can, and frequently do, eat at one meal
what they are allowed for a week) must, when the resource I am
going to mention fails, perish for want, or suffer death for the
depredations they are so much inclined, even in times of plenty,
to commit upon others.
In the month of April we found that Mount Pitt, which is the
highest ground on the island, was, during the night, crowded with
birds. This hill is as full of holes as any rabbit warren; in
these holes at this season these birds burrow and make their
nests, and as they are an aquatic bird, they are, during the
day-time, frequently at sea in search of food; as soon as it is
dark, they hover in vast flocks over the ground where their nests
are. Our people, (I mean seamen, marines, and convicts) who are
sent out in parties to provide birds for the general benefit,
arrive upon the ground soon after dusk, where they light small
fires, which attract the attention of the birds, and they drop
down out of the air as fast as the people can take them up and
kill them: when they are upon the ground, the length of their
wings prevents their being able to rise, and until they can
ascend an eminence, they are unable to recover the use of their
wings; for this purpose, nature has provided them with a strong,
sharp, and hooked bill, and in their heel a sharp spur, with the
assistance of which, and the strength of their bill, they have
been seen to climb the stalk of a tree sufficiently high to throw
themselves upon the wing. This bird, when deprived of its
feathers, is about the size of a pigeon, but when cloathed, is
considerably larger, for their feathers are exceedingly thick;
they are webb-footed, and of a rusty black colour; they make
their holes upon the hills for breeding their young in; they lay
but one egg, and that is full as large as a duck's egg.
They were, at the end of May, as plentiful as if none had been
caught, although for two months before there had not been less
taken than from two to three thousand birds every night; most of
the females taken in May were with egg, which really fills the
whole cavity of the body, and is so heavy that I think it must
fatigue the bird much in flying. This _bird of Providence_,
which I may with great propriety call it, appeared to me to
resemble that sea bird in England, called the puffin: they had a
strong fishy taste, but our keen appetites relished them very
well; the eggs were excellent*.
[* For a further description, and an engraving of
this bird, see the Norfolk-Island Petrel, in Phillip's Voyage,
4to Edition.]
We were highly indebted to Providence for this vast resource;
but as these singular advantages could only be for a season, we
reflected, with pain, that they must have an end, and that in all
probability this would be the case before we got a relief. Fish
was generally mentioned by Governor Phillip, when speaking of
this island, as an inexhaustible resource; he also mentioned the
vast quantity of birds (tropic birds and gannets) which were to
be caught here upon the two small islands (Mount Pitt was not
then known to be the resource we have found it).
If the governor had ever been here himself, or spent a winter
upon Norfolk Island, as I have done, he certainly would not have
laid any stress upon resources so very precarious as we had found
them; and consequently not to be depended upon as a certain
advantage. I have seen the weather so stormy, and the surf so
high for near a month together, that a boat could not be launched
more than twice during that period, and then only for a few
hours; and even when they had got out, they would sometimes bring
in a hundred fish of from two to four pounds weight, and at other
times only five or six fish: so that this supply was very
uncertain and very trifling, when it was considered that we were
above 500 people.
The procurement of the birds upon the small islands was
attended with the same disadvantages, by the difficulty of
landing, from the constant surf.
In the end of May the wreck of the ship still held together,
but the beams and knees were all either broken or loose; she was
so much out of the reach of the surf when it was very heavy, that
it broke with considerable less force upon her than formerly.
Every time that the weather would admit, a few sailors were sent
on board to save whatever articles could be got at, and to send
them on shore.
Our distress did not occasion us to forget that the 4th of
June was the birth-day of our much beloved sovereign. On the
morning of this day the colours were displayed, and at noon three
vollies of musquetry were fired by the marines; as an
acknowledgment that we were Britons, who, however distant and
distressed, revered our king, and loved our country.
The seamen, having but little to do on the wreck, were now
employed in clearing ground for a garden, that they might have a
few vegetables to lengthen out their pittance of provisions.
About the middle of this month I sent some sailors on board to
see if any alteration had taken place in the wreck, that might
render it possible to get at the best bower and sheet cables, or
any cask from the hold; but it was found impracticable, from the
orlop and lower decks lying down on the contents of the hold.
On the 6th of July, a convict man who had been out in search
of birds, reported, that he had been robbed of his shirt by three
other convicts, who, being too lazy to work, had left the
business they had been employed at, and had taken shelter in the
woods: and as it became necessary to check an evil of so
dangerous a nature as early as possible, lest from any
inattention to it many of the very worthless characters, which
were now upon the island, might be encouraged to assemble in
considerable numbers, to the very great annoyance of the more
industrious part of the settlement, the lieutenant-governor
directed two small parties of marines, and expressed a wish that
I would also order two parties of the seamen, who might probably
be less suspected of any design, to apprehend them. Each man sent
upon this duty was provided with a ship's pistol, and a few
charges of powder and ball: in the evening of the same day on
which the parties went out, the culprits were brought in,
pinioned by two of the seamen who had been sent after them. A few
days after, a court-martial was assembled for the trial of the
above convicts, and they were sentenced to receive 300 lashes
each.
The Sirius's men were now wholly employed, when the weather
would admit, in fishing for the settlers; and when the surf was
too high, in making fishing-lines and hooks. A party of marines,
and all the convicts, were employed in clearing ground for corn
and potatoes. On the 24th of July, there being at that time no
more than ten or twelve days salt provisions left, at the short
allowance before-mentioned, and as birds, though growing scarce,
were yet still to be had, it was judged necessary by the
lieutenant-governor and council to stop the salt provisions
entirely during the time which birds were to be caught; so that
the ratio now was three pounds of flour, and one pint of rice per
week, or in lieu of the flour, the same quantity of Indian corn
meal, or wheat ground, with the husks and bran in the meal.
The people in general were now reduced so low in bodily
strength for want of a sufficiency of food, that much work could
not be expected; however, it was absolutely necessary that
something should be done to get seed into the ground. A
considerable portion of the cleared land was planted with
potatoes, as the first thing from which we could expect any
relief.
On the 4th of August, one of the seamen who had been walking
towards the south-east part of the island, casting his eyes
towards the sea, _saw a sail_; without waiting a moment to
examine her particularly, he ran back with as much speed as
possible, calling out as he ran, A ship! a ship! This news was
all over the settlement in a few minutes, and men, women, and
children were hastening in different directions to welcome the
expected relief. I took a spy glass in my hand, and went to the
place from whence the ship had been seen, and there, to my very
great happiness, I observed a ship with an English ensign flying,
not more than six or seven miles off shore.
The wind at this time blowing strong from south-west, it was
not possible for her to appear off Sydney-Bay, she therefore
wore, and seemed to intend going under the lee of the island, in
order to land a boat there. Captain Johnstone, of the marines,
and myself, agreed to walk across the island and receive them. We
set off, and when we arrived at the sea-side, it is impossible
for me to describe our feelings, when we observed the ship before
the wind, and making sail from the island. We did all we could to
show ourselves, but they did not think proper to speak to us.
The effect this disappointment had upon every individual on
the island will be easier to conceive than to express by words.
Every one agreed in opinion, that it would have been much better
if no ship had been seen. There surely was an appearance of a
great want of the common feelings of humanity in the commander of
this ship: for although we afterwards knew that he had no relief
for us, he had it in his power to have given us some comfort,
some hope of relief being at no great distance; that would, in a
considerable degree, have relieved the anxiety of mind under
which we had laboured for five months past, and he would not have
lost two hours in doing it.
As Captain Johnstone and I were on our way home, lamenting our
disappointment, it struck me that this ship must be from Port
Jackson, and that the commander was bound to China; had nothing
on board for the island, and therefore did not choose to lose any
time; but if this conjecture should be just, he must have known
from our friends what the probable state of this island was, and
therefore might readily suppose that five minutes conversation
would have been a vast relief to our anxiety.
After having determined to believe that he was from Port
Jackson, and that we should soon have something from thence, we
kept a very good look-out, and, to our great happiness, on the
7th, a ship was discovered in the offing, and towards the
evening, another appeared in sight; the surf being low, a boat
was sent immediately off to go on board the nearest: they proved
to be the Justinian and the Surprize, from Port Jackson, with
provisions for the relief of this island, and with an addition to
the number of convicts, of about 200. The masters informed us,
that five ships had arrived in New South Wales with 980 convicts,
and provisions for the settlement, and that they had been arrived
about two months; a delay of great length, when it is considered
that our situation, when the governor last heard from us, was
rather an alarming one: nothing had then been saved out of the
wreck of the Sirius, so that there was no certainty that we had
been able to exist. Such were the reflections which I made during
a moment of anxiety, and which, in a period of quiet, I do not
wish to repeat.
We received information, by these ships, of the unfortunate
accident which befel his Majesty's ship Guardian, in her passage
to this country, with provisions and stores; and also that the
Gorgon was fitting, to bring farther supplies, with another
lieutenant-governor, who commanded a corps that had been raised
for this particular service, the marines being ordered for
England.
The Justinian and Surprize, by the good fortune of an uncommon
time of fine weather, were cleared in little more than three
weeks, and proceeded upon their voyage to China on the 30th. If
these ships had been here two months before they did arrive, the
weather was such that they could not have been cleared two days
before the time that they were. We were now looking eagerly for
the arrival of the Gorgon, which ship, the governor informed me
by letter, was to take the Sirius's crew and marines off this
spot, which has cost me so much distress.
As soon as the above ships arrived, and we had communication
with them; for their safety, as well as for the more
expeditiously landing the provisions, I sent Lieutenant Bradley
on board the one, he being now perfectly acquainted with the set
of the tides, their uncertainty, and all the other dangers around
the island; I also sent Mr. Donovan, a midshipman, on board the
other, he having been near two years upon duty on this island,
and was well acquainted with the above particulars: this
assistance enabled them at all proper times to make more free
with the shore. Mr. Keltie, the master of the Sirius, and Mr.
Brooks, the boatswain, attended with me the whole day at the
landing-place.
The boats employed on this business were manned by the
Sirius's crew; so that every possible attention to prevent danger
or accident was used: but, notwithstanding which, on the 17th of
August, in what was considered as good landing, one of the boats,
in coming into the passage, was overtaken by a succession of
heavy surfs, which threw her on one of the reefs, where she
parted in less than two minutes, and seven people were drowned. I
was with several other officers within twenty yards of them, and
with at least thirty people beside, and could render them very
little assistance.
Of the persons who were drowned, there were two of the boat's
crew, who belonged to the Sirius; three women convicts, who were
coming from the ship in this boat, a child, and one convict man,
who went off with many others to try to save the women. There
were two women brought on shore, by the exertions of the people
on the reef, who were, when landed, apparently dead, but
recovered by the surgeons; one was mother of the child which was
lost; one convict man, who was exerting himself to save others,
was himself brought on shore apparently drowned, but was also
brought to again. The people who were lost, were carried out by
the outset from the shore, which at a certain time of tide is so
strong that a boat can scarcely pull a-head against it, even when
calm.
This serves to convince me of the unfounded illiberality of an
observation which I have seen in a certain publication, lately
come out from England, wherein it is mentioned, when speaking of
this island, that there was a boat's crew drowned at a certain
time, but that it was occasioned by the imprudence of the
midshipman, who did not attend to the orders which were given
him: yet certain it is every officer here, at this time, was
fully satisfied it had not been in his power to obey, owing to
the out-set above-mentioned: and therefore it is equally certain,
the reflection upon that gentleman's conduct was highly unjust.
If there had been any act of imprudence committed at that time,
it was not by the midshipman, whose duty it was to obey orders,
but by sending in that narrow and intricate passage, one boat to
meet another, where they must be in each other's way, and
subject, by that means, (if a surf should rise at the moment) to
very great danger.
I found it necessary, in unloading the ships which arrived at
this time, (in consequence of seeing the boats going out and
meeting those coming in considerably endangered by the entangling
their oars, so narrow is the passage in its most dangerous part,)
to give orders that no boat should put off from the shore, when a
loaded boat was near in, nor indeed until such loaded boat was
safely landed.
The arrival of supplies for our relief at this very critical
juncture, was truly comfortable, and a strong instance of the
kindness of Divine Providence to us: for our great and indeed
only resource began to fail us very fast,--the Mount Pitt birds,
on which it may justly be said we had for a very considerable
time principally lived, were now very scarce; many people who
went out to catch them, were frequently, after remaining a whole
night on the ground, where they were, during the plentiful
season, so very numerous, contented to bring in six or eight
birds, and were sometimes unable to find one. The fish also
failed us entirely; for the ships, during the time they were
cruizing about the island and landing the provisions, did not
catch one fish: it will therefore appear, that had not these
supplies arrived so timefully, or had they been detained six
weeks longer, through any accident, or other cause, what a
deplorable situation we should have been reduced to.
Thank God, such consequences as must have attended it, were
prevented by this providential relief, and the dejected gloom,
and pale sickly look, which was to be seen in every countenance,
now gave way to a chearful and happy appearance of
satisfaction.
In the month of January, 1791, finding it impossible to get
any of the remaining stores out, which were under the lower and
orlop decks of the wreck, I determined to attempt getting the
guns out, which, until then, I did not incline to try; the gun
deck being in so infirm a state, I was suspicious, that by moving
the guns, which had hitherto (being housed) hung chiefly by the
bolts in the side, it might cause the deck to fall in, as the
beams, from the opening of the ship's sides, did but barely keep
hold of the clamp, the bolts of the knees being all broken: had
this deck fallen in upon the others, it would have prevented
every endeavour to save such stores as were under it, and which,
from time to time, by the alterations which every heavy surf made
on the wreck, we were sometimes enabled to get at: however, after
every thing, which there was any possibility of getting at, was
saved, we began with the guns, and in a few days got every gun
and carriage on shore, by means of a traveller upon a nine inch
hawser; there were only of our ordnance two carronades lost,
which were carried away by the fall of the masts.
We had just compleated this business of the guns, when a sail
was discovered in the offing, which we all believed to be the
Gorgon, that we had so long expected; but upon her nearer
approach, we discovered it to be the Supply armed tender. She had
been, upon her return from Norfolk Island with the account of our
misfortune, immediately dispatched to Batavia; where Lieutenant
Ball was directed to endeavour to hire a vessel, and to load her
with such articles of provisions as he could procure, for the
relief of the settlement: this service Mr. Ball succeeded in;
having procured a Dutch snow, of about 300 tons, and put on board
such provisions as he could procure; consisting of beef, pork,
flour, rice, and various hospital stores. The season, at Batavia,
while the Supply was there, was very sickly; he lost many of his
men by fevers, and among the number was Mr. Newton Fowell, the
second lieutenant of the Sirius, who had been put on board to
assist in bringing the vessel, which might be hired, to Port
Jackson. I was exceedingly concerned for the loss of this young
gentleman, who was a good, well disposed, and promising young
man.
Mr. Ross, the gunner of the Sirius, who had been left at Port
Jackson on duty, when she sailed for Norfolk Island, died also at
Batavia: he had been put on board the Supply, in order to be
landed at Norfolk Island, if she should be able to reach that
place in her way to Batavia.
After the return of the Supply to Port Jackson, she was found
to require some repairs, which having been compleated, she was
ordered upon the service wherein we now found her, viz. bringing
a few stores for Norfolk Island, with orders to embark the
remaining officers and crew of the Sirius, and to return with
them to Port Jackson.
This information I received with joy, as our situation was now
become exceedingly irksome: we had been upon this small island
eleven months, and during great part of that time, through
various causes, had been oppressed by feelings more distressing
than I can find words to express. On the 11th of February, I
embarked, with the officers and ship's company, on board the
Supply, having taken my leave of a place which had cost me so
much distress and vexation. We had fine weather during our
passage to Port Jackson, where we arrived on the 27th, and were
kindly and hospitably received by all our friends there.
I now understood from the governor, that he had entered into a
contract with the master of the Dutch snow, for carrying the
officers and ship's company of the Sirius to England; a piece of
information which I did not by any means feel a pleasure in
hearing: for, anxious as I was to reach England as soon as
possible, I should with much patience rather have waited the
arrival of an English ship, than to have embarked under the
direction, or at the disposal, of a foreigner: however,
preparations were then making for sending us off as fast as
possible.
As I have spent so much time upon an island, which has of late
been much spoken of, and of which many flattering accounts seem
to have been given, it will be expected that I should say
something concerning it.
NORFOLK ISLAND.
Mount Pitt, or the highest land, lies in Latitude 29° 02'
south. Longitude 168° 05' east of the meridian of Greenwich.
Ships, on making Norfolk Island*, may stand boldly in, there
not being any thing farther out than half a mile from the shore
to take them up. If the wind is west to south or south-east,
there is generally too much surf in Sydney-Bay for boats to land,
which circumstance is signified from the shore by not hoisting
any flag at the lower flag-staff; in which case you will
generally find good landing in Cascade-Bay, where I think there
would not be any difficulty in landing provisions from a
ship.
[* The remarks and directions for Norfolk Island and
Sydney-Bay were made by Captain Bradley.]
If she should put in here, she might always be getting her
cargo out either there or at Sydney-Bay, as the winds that
prevent landing in Cascade-Bay generally make smooth water in
Sydney-Bay. People may at times be landed in Ball-Bay,
Duncombe-Bay, and Anson's-Bay, but neither stores nor provisions
can be landed, on account of the perpendicular hills that
surround them. The ground of the north side of the island is
clearer of rocks than in Sydney-Bay.
Great attention should be paid to the tides, and on the south
side of the island particularly; with southerly and south-east
winds I have known the tide shift six points, at different times,
in the space of half an hour; and if you cannot lie up
south-south-west, standing off upon the larboard tack, the ebb
tide will heave you in upon the shore. There is a mud bank to the
north-east by north of Nepean's island, where a ship might safely
anchor in westerly winds, and prevent being driven off Norfolk
Island.
SYDNEY BAY*,
Lies in latitude 29° 05' south; longitude 168° 02'
east; and variation 11° 00' east. The tide flows full, and
changes at three quarters past seven, and rises from five to
seven feet: the flood runs to the south-west by south; and the
ebb to the north-east by north.
[* For Sydney-Bay, Norfolk Island, upon a large
scale, see Phillip's Voyage.]
In general the tides are equal each way, the ebbs and the
flows regular along the shore six each tide: the eastern tide is
stronger than the western tide; sometimes the eastern tide runs
several hours beyond its usual course, and sometimes the western
tide thus irregularly, which irregularities, although they seldom
happen, make it necessary to bring to, and try the tide before
you come within the outer part of the Nepean Island; and be aware
of an indraught, which sometimes sets into the bight on the west
side of the bay, on both tides, while you are baffled by the
south-east and southerly winds, as you come in with
Sydney-Bay.
All within Nepean Island is foul ground, and very irregular
soundings, and no safe passage between it and Point Hunter; but
if a ship should be pressed by necessity, I would recommend
keeping within half a cable's length of Nepean Island, after
having passed the bed of rocks to the westward of the little
bay.
Norfolk Island lies north-west by north and south-east by
south, and is in this direction about five miles long, and nearly
three in breadth; it is very thickly covered with wood, of which
there are six or seven different kinds, and some I believe might
be applied to naval purposes.
The Pines, which has been particularly spoken of by Captain
Cook, and by others, who have lately visited this island, is the
most conspicuous of any tree here; they grow to a prodigious
size, and are proportionably tall, being from 150 to 200 feet,
and in circumference from 12 to 14 feet, some to 28 and 30 feet.
These trees, from their immense height, have a very noble
appearance, being in general very straight, and free from
branches, to 40, sometimes 60 feet, above the ground; they have
been by some thought fit for masts, for ships of any size; in
length and diameter they certainly are, but with respect to
quality they are, in my opinion, wholly unfit; even admitting
them to be found, which, from experience, I know is seldom the
case.
I employed the carpenters of the Sirius, while here, to cut
down a few sticks, which it was intended should be sent home by
the first opportunity, in order for trial in his Majesty's
dock-yards, to see if they were, as had been said, fit for his
Majesty's navy, or not. In providing a top-mast and a
top-sail-yard for a seventy-four gun ship, a thirty-two, a
twenty, or a sloop, and one rough spar, in all seven sticks, 34
trees were cut down, 27 of which were found defective. When these
trees were falling, it was observed that most of them discharged
a considerable quantity of clear water, which continued to flow
at every fresh cut of the axe; there is no turpentine in these
trees but what circulates between the bark and body of the tree,
and which is soluble in water. It is a very short grained and
spongy kind of timber, and I think fit only for house-building,
for which we know it to be very useful.
When fresh cut down, five out of six will sink in water, the
wood is so exceedingly heavy: and, if we suppose for a moment,
that great part of the pine timber were fit for naval purposes,
the great difficulty, and indeed I may say impossibility, of
getting it from the interior parts of the island to the sea,
would render it of little value, if designed for masts; but if
for plank, it could be cut up where fallen. Those which grow on
the south-east point of the island, where the land is low, are
those which have hitherto been made use of.
Norfolk Island, if correctly laid down in a plan, with all the
hills and vallies represented accurately, would very much
resemble the waves of the sea in a gale of wind; for it is
composed wholly of long, narrow, and very steep ridges of hills,
with deep gullies, which are as narrow at the bottom as the hills
are on the top, so that there is scarcely any level country upon
it; but as viewed from the sea, it appears quite level, the
different ridges being nearly the same in height.
Arthur's Vale, which is near the settlement, and the first
place which was cleared for cultivation, is a pretty spot of
level ground, and the most extensive flat yet cleared; it
contains eleven acres. This very great unevenness of the ground
occasions much labour in cultivation, and renders it wholly
impossible to use the plough, even if the ground were
sufficiently cleared, and there were cattle to work; every labour
of that kind must be done by hand. There was, when I left the
island, in February, 1791, something more than 100 acres cleared
for the public, exclusive of private gardens, but all the roots
of the trees were left in the ground, which would no doubt occupy
a fifth part of it, for many of them were very large.
The soil over the whole of this island is generally allowed to
be remarkably fine, and it is very deep; indeed, the luxuriance
with which almost every thing grows sufficiently indicates a very
rich soil: it seems to be composed principally of a deep, fat
clay, and decayed vegetable matter; in short, without pretending
to natural knowledge, that unhappily I do not possess, I shall
only observe, that a more luxuriant soil I never met with in any
part of the world.
The flax plant mentioned by Captain Cook grows chiefly on the
sea coast, or on points which project into the sea; but as these
points seem to have the same kind of soil as the other parts of
the island, there can be no doubt of its succeeding in the
interior parts, if planted there.
In the very sanguine opinions which we find have been given of
this island, since we arrived in this southern part of the world,
it appears that the size of it has been wholly overlooked,
otherwise I think such expectations and opinions of its value, as
appears to have been entertained, could not have taken place. I
only judge of such expectations by the number of people which
Governor Phillip has thought proper to send there: opinions have
been given, that it will maintain 2000 inhabitants; if it were
all cleared and cultivated, it would no doubt furnish many of the
necessaries of life for such a number; but in its present state,
I should think a fourth part of that number too many, and, in my
humble opinion, they should be such as have forfeited every hope
of seeing their native country again; such a description of
people would find it their particular interest to be industrious,
as their existence might depend upon it.
The crops here are very subject to blights from the sea winds,
and there are immense numbers of the grub worm and caterpillars:
there is also a fly of a very destructive nature to the gardens
and corn; but when such vermin do not appear until the crops have
arrived at a certain age, and have gained their strength, their
effects are not so very ruinous; there is no certain period at
which they appear; probably when a large extent of ground is
cleared these vermin may not be so frequent.
Indian corn grows here with great advantage, producing from
forty to fifty bushels an acre, planted with about a peck. This
little island is extraordinary well watered; there are several
fine streams which seem to flow from the body of Mount Pitt, and
empty themselves on both sides of the island into the sea. On the
north side, in Cascade-Bay, there are two pretty falls from steep
cliffs into the sea; there are two streams upon this island,
which I have often noticed even in very dry weather, and thought
them capable of turning a mill.
With respect to landing upon the shore, as it is frequently
attended with great difficulty and danger, stores should never be
sent here but in the summer time, when there is much fine weather
and easy landing; but when the landing is impracticable in
Sydney-Bay, it is possible to get light stores a-shore in
Cascade-Bay, which will then be smooth, if it do not blow hard;
when it does, the whole island is inaccessible, for it is not of
sufficient extent to prevent the sea, occasioned by bad weather,
from affecting every part of the shore.
[A TABLE, distinguishing those Days on which Landing was good,
and those of High Surf, when there could be no landing, at the
annexed Landing Places, in _Norfolk-Island_, between the
19th of _March_, 1790, and the 12th of _Feb._ 1791. By
CAPTAIN BRADLEY.]