TRANSACTIONS AT PORT JACKSON
May 1789 to January 1790
-The small-pox makes its appearance among the
natives.--Its fatal effects.--A criminal court held.--Six marines
tried and convicted.--Governor Phillip visits
Broken-bay.--Explores its various inlets.--Returns to Port
Jackson. Broken-bay surveyed.--Botany-bay surveyed.--Two natives
brought to the settlement, and kindly treated.--One of them makes
his escape.-
As soon as the ship was secured, I went on shore to wait on
the governor, whom I found in good health; he was sitting by the
fire, drinking tea with a few friends; among whom I observed a
native man of this country, who was decently cloathed, and seemed
to be as much at his ease at the tea-table as any person there;
he managed his cup and saucer as well, as though he had been long
accustomed to such entertainment.
This man was taken from his friends, by force, by Lieutenant
Ball, of the Supply, and Lieutenant George Johnston, of the
marines, who were sent down the harbour with two boats for that
purpose; the governor having found that no encouragement he could
give the natives, would dispose them to visit the settlement of
their own accord: this method he had therefore determined upon,
to get one man into his possession, who, by kind treatment, might
hereafter be the means of disposing his countrymen to place more
confidence in us. This man, whose name was _Ara-ba-noo_, was
taken, as I have already said, by force, and in the following
manner.
After having been a short time in conversation with some of
the gentlemen, one of the seamen, who had been previously
directed, threw a rope round his neck, and dragged him in a
moment down to the boat; his cries brought a number of his
friends into the skirts of the wood, from whence they threw many
lances, but without effect. The terror this poor wretch suffered,
can better be conceived than expressed; he believed he was to be
immediately murdered; but, upon the officers coming into the
boat, they removed the rope from his neck to his leg, and treated
him with so much kindness, that he became a little more
chearful.
He was for some time after his arrival at the governor's
house, ornamented with an iron shackle about his leg, to prevent
his being able to effect his escape with ease; this he was taught
to consider as _bang-ally_, which is the name given in their
language to every decoration; and he might well believe it a
compliment paid to him, because it was no uncommon thing for him
to see several (of the most worthless of the convicts, who had
merited punishment) every day shackled like him; the cause of
which he could not of course understand. However, he was very
soon reconciled to his situation, by the very kind treatment he
received from every person about him, and the iron growing
uneasy, it was taken off, and he was allowed to go where he
pleased.
He very soon learnt the names of the different gentlemen who
took notice of him, and when I was made acquainted with him, he
learnt mine, which he never forgot, but expressed great desire to
come on board my _nowee_; which is their expression for a
boat or other vessel upon the water.
The day after I came in, the governor and his family did me
the honour to dine on board, when I was also favoured with the
company of _Ara-ba-noo_, whom I found to be a very good
natured talkative fellow; he was about thirty years of age, and
tolerably well looked.
I expressed, when at the governor's, much surprize, at not
having seen a single native on the shore, or a canoe as we came
up in the ship; the reason of which I could not comprehend, until
I was informed that the small-pox had made its appearance, a few
months ago, amongst these unfortunate creatures, and that it was
truly shocking to go round the coves of this harbour, which were
formerly so much frequented by the natives; where, in the caves
of the rocks, which used to shelter whole families in bad
weather, were now to be seen men, women, and children, lying
dead. As we had never yet seen any of these people who have been
in the smallest degree marked with the small-pox, we had reason
to suppose they have never before now been affected by it, and
consequently are strangers to any method of treating it: and, if
we consider the various attitudes, which the different dead
bodies have been found in, we may easily believe, that when any
of them are taken ill, and the malady assumes the appearance of
the small-pox, (having already experienced its fatality to whole
families,) they are immediately deserted by their friends, and
left to perish, in their helpless situation, for want of
sustenance. Some have been found sitting on their haunches, with
their heads reclined between their knees; others were leaning
against a rock, with their head resting upon it: I have seen
myself, a woman sitting on the ground, with her knees drawn up to
her shoulders, and her face resting on the sand between her
feet.
Two children, a boy of six or seven years of age, and a girl
about ten, were lately picked up, labouring under the same
disease; two old men, whom we had reason to believe were the
fathers of the two children, were picked up at the same time, and
brought to the hospital, and much care taken of them: the two men
lived but a few days, but the children both recovered, and seemed
well satisfied with their _very comfortable situation_.
Through the means of these children, if they should retain their
native language, a more intimate and friendly intercourse with
the people of this country may in time be brought about.
Five or six days after my arrival, poor Ara-ba-noo was seized
with the small-pox, and although every possible means for his
recovery were used, he lived only till the crisis of the disease.
Every person in the settlement was much concerned for the loss of
this man.
I was exceedingly concerned on hearing of the death of Captain
Shea, of the marines, which happened while we were absent; his
disorder was a general decay, which I think must have taken place
very suddenly, for he was apparently strong and healthy when the
Sirius sailed from Port Jackson.
Several people had been lost in the woods during our absence,
and had either been killed by the natives, or perished there.
Another melancholy piece of information which we received on
our arrival, was, that six marines had been tried by a criminal
court, and found guilty of robbing the public stores: they were
sentenced to death, and executed accordingly. It appeared upon
the trial of these infatuated men, that they had carried on this
iniquitous, (and I may add from our situation) dangerous practice
to the settlement at large, for several months; and all
originally occasioned by some unfortunate connections they had
made with women convicts.
The settlement had been, during our absence, remarkably
healthy.
Before the Sirius sailed from Port Jackson, the governor had
determined to send a detachment of the marines, with a
considerable number of convicts, for the purpose of clearing as
much as might be necessary, and preparing a tract of land at the
head of this harbour, (which place I have already mentioned) in
order to sow corn. When we returned from our voyage, I went up to
see what progress was made at this farm, which had been named
Rose Hill: it certainly very much exceeded my expectations; the
quantity of ground prepared for receiving grain at the proper
time, was considerable; a number of huts were built, the gardens
were in tolerable appearance, and there was altogether every
prospect, in due time, of a very extensive farm; and we knew that
if there were people enough to labour, it might be carried at
least twenty miles to the westward, and every foot of the ground
apparently as good as that on which they were now at work; but we
found here, that although the land was tolerable, there would be
great, and I think an insurmountable difficulty, in attempting an
extensive farm, chiefly for want of water.
At Rose Hill, there is in dry seasons but very little water,
and that by no means good; but farther back to the westward, you
can but now and then meet with as much as will quench the thirst
of a traveller: you may walk many miles, particularly in hot dry
summer weather, without meeting with as much as you may want for
drinking; this scarcity, though I do not pretend to any knowledge
in farming, I cannot help thinking, were water wanted only for
the use of a family, a vast difficulty, and an inconvenience not
to be got the better of, unless it were possible to get water by
sinking wells at every half mile distance.
There have been several attempts made by the gentlemen here,
who had little farms in the neighbourhood of Sydney Cove, to
raise grain of different kinds, for the purpose of feeding a few
pigs, goats, or poultry; but although their endeavours seemed for
a time to promise an ample reward, for the corn shot up very
quickly, yet it no sooner formed into ear, than the rats (with
which, as well as other vermin, this country is over-run)
destroyed the whole of their prospect: the Indian corn, which was
remarkably promising, was destroyed in a night; but I am sorry to
say, that such of the corn as had escaped the vermin,
notwithstanding its very promising appearance in the beginning,
turned out the most miserable empty straws I ever beheld; the
greatest part was mere straw of about two or two feet and an half
high, and the whole produce of a patch of an acre, when cut down,
could be carried in one hand.
Having, since our arrival, examined the error of the
time-keeper, we found it amount to 5' 20", or 1° 20' of
longitude westerly, which made the error, in sailing the whole
circle, only 00° 11' of longitude easterly; and as I had kept
Brockbank's watch going the whole time, I examined its error
also: I have already mentioned that it was, upon our arrival in
Table-Bay, 3° 01' eastward; but upon our return to this
place, it was correct to the fraction of a second; so that
whatever its errors might have been during the voyage, it had
none upon our arrival. I did not keep the account of longitude by
it, but every day, when the sun could be seen, I determined our
place by the time-keeper; in doing which, I generally compared my
own watch with it, both before and after the altitudes were
taken, and carried it upon deck, the time-piece being fixed in
the cabin.
On the 6th of June, I was engaged in a party, with the
governor, on a visit to Broken-Bay, in order to examine some part
of that harbour which had not been (for want of time and
opportunity) noticed in his last visit to that place; two boats
were dispatched under the care of Mr. Keltie, master of the
Sirius, with provisions, etc. And the party, which consisted
of the governor, Captain Collins (the judge-advocate), Captain
Johnston, of the marines, Mr. White, principal surgeon of the
settlement, Mr. Worgan, Mr. Fowell, and myself, from the Sirius,
and two men, all armed with musquets, etc.
We landed on the north part of Port Jackson, and proceeded
along the sea coast to the northward; in the course of our march,
we had many long sandy beaches to cross, which was a very
fatiguing part of the journey: when we ascended the hills, we had
frequently thick woods to pass through, but as we often fell in
with paths, which the natives in travelling along the coast had
trod very well down, these paths rendered our march, not only on
account of pointing to us the most easy and accessible parts of
the hills and woods, but, in point of direction, the shortest
which could be found, if we had even been better acquainted with
this tract.
We left Port Jackson at six o'clock in the morning, just as
the day was dawning, and arrived at the south branch of
Broken-Bay at three in the afternoon, after a pretty warm and
fatiguing journey, loaded as we were with provisions for several
days, water, and ammunition: when we arrived at the water-side,
we found our boats, which had left Port Jackson at midnight, were
safely arrived. As it was now too late in the day, and we were
all too much fatigued to attempt any part of the main business
upon which we came here, we pitched our tents, and hauled the
Seine for fish, and being successful, we sat down to regale
ourselves on fresh fish and salt beef, and rested the remainder
of the day.
In the course of the little excursions of our boats' crews
this afternoon, a native woman was discovered, concealing herself
from our sight in the long grass, which was at this time very
wet, and I should have thought very uncomfortable to a poor naked
creature. She had, before the arrival of our boats at this beach,
been, with some of her friends, employed in fishing for their
daily food, but were upon their approach alarmed, and they had
all made their escape, except this miserable girl, who had just
recovered from the small-pox, and was very weak, and unable, from
a swelling in one of her knees, to get off to any distance: she
therefore crept off, and concealed herself in the best manner she
could among the grass, not twenty yards from the spot on which we
had placed our tents. She was discovered by some person who
having fired at and shot a hawk from a tree right over her,
terrified her so much that she cried out and discovered herself.
Information was immediately brought to the governor, and we all
went to see this unhappy girl, whom we found, as I have already
observed, just recovered from the small-pox, and lame: she
appeared to be about 17 or 18 years of age, and had covered her
debilitated and naked body with the wet grass, having no other
means of hiding herself; she was very much frightened on our
approaching her, and shed many tears, with piteous lamentations:
we understood none of her expressions, but felt much concern at
the distress she seemed to suffer; we endeavoured all in our
power to make her easy, and with the assistance of a few
expressions which had been collected from poor Ara-ba-noo while
he was alive, we soothed her distress a little, and the sailors
were immediately ordered to bring up some fire, which we placed
before her: we pulled some grass, dried it by the fire, and
spread round her to keep her warm; then we shot some birds, such
as hawks, crows, and gulls, skinned them, and laid them on the
fire to broil, together with some fish, which she eat; we then
gave her water, of which she seemed to be much in want, for when
the word _Baa-do_ was mentioned, which was their expression
for water, she put her tongue out to show how very dry her mouth
was; and indeed from its appearance and colour, she had a
considerable degree of fever on her.
Before we retired to rest for the night, we saw her again, and
got some fire-wood laid within her reach, with which she might,
in the course of the night, recruit her fire; we also cut a large
quantity of grass, dried it, covered her well, and left her to
her repose, which, from her situation, I conjecture was not very
comfortable or refreshing.
Next morning we visited her again; she had now got pretty much
the better of her fears, and frequently called to her friends,
who had left her, and who, we knew, could be at no great distance
from her; she repeated their names in a very loud and shrill
voice, and with much apparent anxiety and concern for the little
notice they took of her intreaties to return: for we imagined, in
all she said when calling on them, she was informing them, that
the strangers were not enemies, but friends; however, all her
endeavours to bring them back were ineffectual, while we remained
with her; but we were no sooner gone from the beach, than we saw
some of them come out of the wood; and as there were two canoes
on the shore belonging to this party, they launched one into the
water, and went away.
We employed this day in going up the south branch which the
governor named Pitt Water, and so much of the day was spent in
examining it, that when we returned down near the place where we
had passed the last night, it was thought too late to proceed
farther; we therefore encamped on the same spot. Our tents were
no sooner up, than we went to visit our young female friend, whom
we found in a little bark hut upon the beach; this hut was the
place in which she and her friends were enjoying themselves, when
the arrival of our boat alarmed them. She was not alone, as
before, but had with her a female child, about two years old, and
as fine a little infant of that age as I ever saw; but upon our
approach (the night being cold and rainy, and the child terrified
exceedingly) she was lying with her elbows and knees on the
ground, covering the child from our sight with her body, or
probably sheltering it from the weather, but I rather think on
account of its fears.
On our speaking to her, she raised herself up, and sat on the
ground with her knees up to her chin, and her heels under her,
and was at that moment, I think, the most miserable spectacle in
the human shape I ever beheld*: the little infant could not be
prevailed on to look up; it lay with its face upon the ground,
and one hand covering its eyes. We supplied her, as before, with
birds, fish, and fuel, and pulled a quantity of grass to make her
a comfortable bed, and covered her little miserable hut so as to
keep out the weather: she was now so reconciled to our frequent
visits, seeing we had nothing in view but her comfort in them,
that when she wanted _baa-do_, or _ma-gra_, which
signifies fish, she would ask for them, and when she did, it was
always supplied her: in the morning we visited her again; the
child had now got so much the better of its fears, that it would
allow us to take hold of its hand; I perceived, that young as it
was, it had lost the two first joints of its little finger, of
the left-hand, the reason or meaning of which we had not yet been
able to learn.
[* See the Vignette in the Title Page.]
We gave her all the fish we had remaining, and having put a
quantity of fire-wood and water within her reach, we took our
leave. We embarked in the boats, and sailed across the bay to the
north branch, which has a very shoally and narrow entrance. We
proceeded but a small distance up, before we landed on the west
shore and refreshed ourselves; after which we rowed round the
first opening on the east side; this we followed up until we came
to its head. It is very shallow and narrow, and ended in a large
bason, full of shoals, and surrounded with mangroves; it extended
near four miles to the north and eastward.
When we returned from this branch, we pitched our tents on the
west shore for the night, and early the next morning we proceeded
to the northward: in this route we fell in with many shoals of
considerable extent; and after rowing about six or seven miles
up, we arrived at the head of it, which divides into two large
bays, in one of which I observed the latitude to be 33° 26'
30" south. We returned from hence to a point near the entrance of
this north harbour, where we encamped and spent the night; in
this harbour we did not see more than twenty natives, some few of
whom came and conversed with us.
Across the mouth of this north harbour there is a bar or spit
of sand, which extends from the sandy beach, or west point of the
entrance, almost over to the eastern shore, and on which, from
the wind having been from the southward the preceding night, the
sea broke prodigiously from side to side, so that near low water
it was impossible for the boats to get out; we were on that
account obliged to remain there until it was more than two-thirds
flood, when, in the deepest part of the channel, where the sea
did not break, we pushed out, and pulled over for the south-west
arm, or harbour, up which we went; but as part of this branch had
not been looked into last winter, we entered an arm on the north
side of it, and proceeded up about a mile and a half to an island
we had visited the last winter.
Here we encamped for the night, and hauled the seine with
great success; and from the vast quantity of excellent mullet and
other fish caught here, it got the name of Mullet Island. Next
morning we rowed into a branch, which the boats had been in the
last time we were here, but had not thoroughly examined; we
proceeded to the top, and found it very shoally, extending to the
northward about four miles, and navigable only for boats, having
but four, five, and six feet water in it. After having satisfied
ourselves as to the extent of this arm, we returned to Mullet
Island, where we caught fish and dined.
In the afternoon, the governor and myself went in one of the
boats, leaving the rest of the party with the tents on Mullet
Island; we entered another branch which had also been seen last
winter, but was not examined; we rowed up this about seven or
eight miles, until it became so very narrow and shoally, having
scarcely water enough to float the boat, or room to use the oars,
that we thought it was not worth prosecuting any farther
discovery at the risk of grounding the boat, and being left
during the night; we therefore returned to Mullet Island, and
spent another night upon it. This branch is all shoal water, only
five and six feet.
The next morning we struck our tents and proceeded, in the
boats, to examine a point of high land, which, from our situation
in the boat the day before, had the appearance of an island; of
this we were determined to be satisfied, and we found it to be an
island as we had conjectured. In examining this, we were led into
a branch which had not before been discovered: we proceeded up
this for a considerable distance, found good depth of water, and
every other appearance of its being the opening of an extensive
river: we continued to row up in it the whole of this day, and in
the evening we went on shore, on the most commodious spot we
could find, which was a low marshy point. Here we raised our
tents, and spent the night.
At day-light in the morning it was so foggy, that we were
obliged to defer our departure from this situation until ten
o'clock, when the influence of the sun dispelled the mist, and we
continued our course upwards, still finding good depth of water
and strong tides; both which we considered as indications of a
considerable river. The whole of this day was employed in
exploring and making what progress we could; the ebb tides we
observed thus far up were considerably stronger than the floods,
and the water had very little the taste of sea water; indeed, it
scarcely could be called brackish. We continued going up until
the evening, when it was found impossible, at this time, to make
any farther discovery; our provisions being nearly expended: we
filled our water-casks, where we gave up the pursuit, and there,
although the tide was high, the water was perfectly fresh.
The general depth of this river was from three to seven
fathoms, and its breadth was from 100 to 300 fathoms. There are
some shoals, but they generally extend from low mangrove or
marshy points. Its general direction, as far as we were up, is to
the north-west. We were, when farthest up, about twenty miles
from the entrance of the south-west arm of Broken-Bay. The banks
of the river, on the lowest part, had many mangrove trees along
it; higher up, reeds grew along its margin, and behind these
reedy banks were immense perpendicular hills of barren, rocky
lands, with trees growing from between the rocky cliffs; the
depth of the river, when we were highest up, was six and seven
fathoms.
We were so anxious to prosecute this discovery, that we did
not think of returning until it was near dark; and in our present
situation, there was not a spot on which we could erect a tent,
so very steep were the shores, except where they were marshy. We
pushed down as fast as possible, in order to find a
landing-place, before it should be very late; and soon after
dark, we put a-shore on a parcel of rocks, which was, indeed, the
only spot near on which we could find room for our tents, and
here we passed the night.
The morning of the next day was again foggy, until the sun had
sufficient power to disperse it; we then returned down the river,
and as the wind was fair, and blew fresh, we sailed down, and in
the afternoon arrived in the south branch, or Pitt-Water, fixed
our tents for the evening, and caught some fish, in order to spin
out our provisions. Our female friend had left this place.
The governor was now determined to return as fast as possible
to Port Jackson, and, after resting a few days, to prosecute this
useful discovery to its source. We struck the tents at night, and
embarked them in the boats; for, as the wind was northerly, it
was intended they should sail at midnight; a wigwam was made to
shelter us during the night, and a large fire before it, by which
we lay till day-light. The boats having sailed in the night, we
set off at dawn of day in the morning by land; we found an easier
path than that by which we came, and arrived at the north cove of
Port Jackson by two in the afternoon, where the boats were
already arrived.
In our journey we fell in with several dead bodies, who had
probably fallen by the small-pox, but they were mere skeletons,
so that it was impossible to say of what disease they died.
Boats were upon our arrival immediately ordered to be
prepared, and provisions got ready for another excursion, the
same party being engaged to go again, and, if possible, trace
this river to its source. As far up as we advanced, I made an eye
sketch of it.
On Sunday the 28th of June, the boats being ready, provisions
embarked, and the wind fair for another visit to Broken-Bay, they
sailed before day-light on Monday morning; the party engaged to
go by land were put on shore at the north part of the harbour at
six o'clock; the same gentlemen who were on the former expedition
were on this also, and an addition of five marines; on the whole,
our numbers amounted to about forty, including those in the
boats: we were all well armed, and capable of making a powerful
resistance, in case, as we advanced up the river, we should find
the interior parts of the country well in-habited, and the people
hostile.
Having, on our last expedition, found a good track to travel
by, we were soon in the neighbourhood of the south branch of
Broken-Bay, at which place one boat had been ordered to meet us,
in order to save us by much the worst part of the journey. We
arrived at the head of Pitt-Water before eleven o'clock, but no
boat appeared, which obliged us to walk round all the bays,
woods, and swamps, between the head and entrance of this branch;
by which, when we joined the boats, we were exceedingly fatigued;
the weather being rather warm, and each person having his
knapsack and arms to carry, this last part of our journey
increased the distance from twelve or fourteen miles to about
twenty-five; in the course of which we had very high and steep
hills to climb, and many deep swamps to wade through: by the time
we joined the boats the day was too far advanced to think of
proceeding any farther, we therefore pitched the tents, and
occupied the spot which we had formerly done when here.
On Tuesday the 30th, we embarked in the boats at day-break,
intending to reach as high up this day as possible; we passed
Mullet Island, and proceeded into the river, and before night, we
had advanced as far up as a point on which we had rested a night
the last time we were here, and which was within three or four
miles of the place, where we left off the pursuit: here we slept
for the night, and at day-light on the 1st of July we embarked,
and after advancing a very little way beyond our farthest
discovery, the river divided into two branches, one leading to
the north-west, the other to the southward.
We took that which led to the north-west, and continued all
day rowing up this arm, which was in general shoal water, from
four to ten and twelve feet, and its breadth from about 20 to 40
fathoms; the banks of this branch were in general immense
perpendicular mountains of barren rock; in some places the
mountains did not reach the margin of the river, but fell back a
little way from it, and were joined by low marshy points, covered
with reeds or rushes, which extended from the foot of the
mountains to the edge of the river. At five in the evening, we
put on shore, and raised our tents at the foot of one of the
mountains, where we found a tolerable dry spot for that purpose;
and in the morning of the 2d, we proceeded higher up, but this
morning's progress was a good deal retarded by many large trees
having fallen from the banks, and which reached almost across the
river; for here it was so narrow, that it hardly deserved that
name.
By ten o'clock we were so far up, that we had not room for the
oars, nor indeed water to float the boats: we therefore found it
necessary to return, and before noon we put on shore, where I
took the meridian altitude of the sun, which gave our latitude
33° 21' south, and we judged, by the estimated distances
marked in my sketch, that we were about thirty-four miles above
Mullet Island.
At the place where we passed the last night we were examining
the ground round us, as was customary wherever we placed our
tents for the night; and about half a mile distant, some of the
gentlemen found a small hut; they saw a person whom they took for
a native woman, and who, upon our approach, fled with great
precipitation into the woods. They went to examine the hut, and
found two small helpless children in it; the poor little
creatures were terribly frightened, but upon their being kindly
treated, they seemed to recover a little from their fear. They
appeared to be in great distress, apparently for want of food;
they had a little fire by them, and in it was found a few wild
yams, about the size of a walnut: upon a supposition that the
parents of these children would soon return, after our leaving
the place, a hatchet and some other trifles were left in the
hut.
Next morning, while the people were employed in striking the
tents, some of the gentlemen again visited the hut which they now
found unoccupied; the whole family were gone, and the hatchet,
etc. were left lying by it. It is really wonderful, that these
people should set so little value upon such an useful article as
an axe certainly must be to them; this indifference I have
frequently seen in those who have been shown the use of it, and
even when its superiority over their stone hatchets has been
pointed out by a comparison. It is not easily to be accounted
for.
We had now a strong ebb tide, and we rowed late, in order, if
possible, to get out of this branch before we stopt for the
night. About six o'clock in the evening we entered the southern
branch, and very soon after encamped for the night. The next
morning (Friday 3d) we proceeded up this arm for about seven or
eight miles, where it again divided into two branches; thus far
we found the depth from three to nine fathoms, and the breadth of
the river from 100 to 150 fathoms; we took the branch which led
to the northward, (the other went to the southward) but we had
not advanced more than a quarter of a mile before we found the
water very shoally; however, as it might lead to a good country,
the governor determined to go as high as the boats could find
water; we went through various windings, and met with many
difficulties from the shoallyness of the water: notwithstanding
which, we made shift to get about 13 miles up; the depth was from
four to twelve feet, and the breadth from 20 to 50 fathoms; the
banks of this branch were the same as the last, high, steep, and
rocky mountains, with many trees growing down their sides, from
between the rocks, where no one would believe there could be any
soil to nourish them.
Both this and the last branch we examined, probably extend
many miles farther than we with our boats could trace them, but
they did not appear, where we left off the examination of them,
to be navigable for any vessel but the canoes of the natives,
which do not draw more than two or three inches water. We saw
several natives in these branches, but they fled into the woods
on our approach: the wretched condition of the miserable natives
who have taken up their residence, for a time, so far back from
the sea coast, where no fish are to be had, is far beyond my
description; they, no doubt, have methods of snaring or killing
the different kinds of animals which are to be found here,
otherwise I think it impossible they could exist at any distance
from the sea: for the land, as far as we yet know, affords very
little sustenance for the human race.
Having advanced as far as possible with the boats, we
returned, and having rowed two or three miles down to a point
where there was tolerable landing, we put a-shore, and pitched
the tents for the night. In the morning of the 4th, while the
tents were putting into the boats, I measured the height of the
opposite shore, which I found to be 250 feet perpendicular above
the level of the river, which was here 30 fathoms wide: at seven
o'clock we embarked, and rowed down until we came to the entrance
of the second southern branch, where we found good depth of
water, in six and seven fathoms. This, from its depth, encouraged
us to hope that it might extend a great distance to the westward:
we went up this branch about 13 or 14 miles before we put on
shore for the night: in this distance, the general depth of water
was from two to seven fathoms, and the breadth of the river from
70 to 140 fathoms; but the country still wore a very unpromising
aspect, being either high rocky shores, or low marshy points.
After having rested for the night, we were again under way at
day-light, and this day advanced about fourteen miles against the
tide. In the woods we frequently saw fires, and sometimes heard
the natives; in the afternoon we saw a considerable number of
people in the wood, with many fires in different places; we
called to them in their own manner, by frequently repeating the
word _Co-wee_, which signifies, come here; at last, two men
came to the water-side with much apparent familiarity and
confidence: I thought, from this circumstance, that they had
certainly seen us before, either at Botany-Bay, Port Jackson, or
Broken-Bay; they received a hatchet, and a wild duck, which had
been just before shot from the boat; and in return, they threw us
a small coil of line, made of the hair of some animal, and also
offered a spear, which was refused. The only argument against
their having seen us before is, that they were the first we had
met with who appeared desirous of making a return for any present
they received.
Here the banks of the river are low and covered with what we
call the pine-trees of this country; which indeed have received
that name merely from the leaf, which is a good deal like the
pine, but the wood is very different.
The natives here, appear to live chiefly on the roots which
they dig from the ground; for these low banks appear to have been
ploughed up, as if a vast herd of swine had been living on them.
We put on shore, and examined the places which had been dug, and
found the wild yam in considerable quantities, but in general
very small, not larger than a walnut; they appear to be in the
greatest plenty on the banks of the river; a little way back they
are scarce.
We frequently, in some of the reaches which we passed through
this day, saw very near us the hills, which we suppose as seen
from Port Jackson, and called by the governor the Blue
Mountains.
At five in the evening, we put ashore at the foot of a hill,
where we passed the night; and at day-light in the morning of the
5th, we embarked, and continued our way up the river; in which we
still found good depth of water, from two to five fathoms, and 60
or 70 fathoms wide. As we advanced, we found the river to
contract very fast in its breadth, and the channel became
shoaler; from these circumstances, we had reason to believe that
we were not far from its source: the ebb tides were pretty
strong, but the floods were only perceptible by the swolling of
the water.
In the evening we arrived at the foot of a high mountain,
which was spread over with Iofty trees, without any underwood;
and saw a pleasant looking country, covered with grass, and
without that mixture of rocky patches in every acre or two, as is
common in many other places: we ascended some distance, and
erected our tents for the night. The river here is not more than
twenty fathoms wide. In the night, when every thing was still, we
heard distinctly the roaring of what we judged to be a fall of
water; and imagined from this circumstance, that we should not be
able to advance much farther.
In the morning, we walked to the top of the hill, and found we
were not more than five or six miles from a long range of
mountains, between which, and that where we stood, there is a
deep valley, or low country, through which, probably, a branch of
this river may run. This range of mountains we supposed to be
those which are seen from Port Jackson, and called the Blue
Mountains: they limit the sight to the west-north-west. In that
range of high land there is a remarkable gully, or chasm, which
is seen distinctly at a distance, and from which we appeared to
be distant about five miles. The hills on each side of this gap
were named by Governor Phillip; on one side the Carmarthen, on
the other, the Lansdown hills; and that on which we stood was
called Richmond-hill.
In the morning of the 6th, we examined the river, which, as I
have before observed, was narrow and shoally; its bed was
composed of loose round stones and sand: it was now low water,
and not a sufficient depth to float the boats: we therefore
delayed any farther attempt to get up until it should be near
high water; and, in the mean time, determined to take a view of
the country round this hill; which, had it been clear of trees,
would from its commmanding height, have given a most extensive
prospect to the eastward, northward, and southward; but the range
of hills before-mentioned were still higher, and of course
limited our view to the westward.
While the other gentlemen of the party were along with the
governor, examining the country, I employed myself in taking the
meridian altitude of the sun, by which I found the highest part
of the hill to be in latitude 33° 37' south.
The gentlemen spoke highly in favour of the country as far as
they walked; it was perfectly clear of any kind of under-wood;
the trees upon it were all very tall, and stood very wide apart;
the soil was also examined, and found very good: a small patch
was dug up, and a few potatoes, Indian-corn, melon, and other
seeds sown. This was a common practice, when a piece of ground,
favourable from its soil, and being in an unfrequented situation,
was found, to sow a few seeds of different kinds: some of the
little gardens, which had been planted in this manner, and left
to nature, have been since visited and found thriving, others
have miscarried.
After making these observations, the tide being made, we put
off in the boats, and endeavoured to get higher up, but were
frequently aground: by the time we had reached half a mile higher
than the foot of Richmond-hill, we met the stream setting down so
strong, that it was with much difficulty we could get the boats
so high. We here found the river to divide into two narrow
branches, from one of which the stream came down with
considerable velocity, and with a fall over a range of stones
which seemed to lye across its entrance: this was the fall which
we had heard the night before from our situation on the side of
Richmond-hill.
We found too little water for the boats which we had with us
to advance any farther, and the stream was very strong, although
weak to what it may reasonably be conjectured to be after heavy
rains; for here we had evident marks of the vast torrents which
must pour down from the mountains, after heavy rains. The low
grounds, at such times, are entirely covered, and the trees with
which they are overgrown, are laid down (with their tops pointing
down the river,) as much as I ever saw a field of corn after a
storm; and where any of these trees have been strong enough to
resist in _any degree_ the strength of the torrent, (for
they are all less or more bent downwards) we saw in the clifts of
the branches of such trees, vast quantities of large logs which
had been hurried down by the force of the waters, and lodged from
thirty to forty feet above the common level of the river; and at
that height there were great quantities of grass, reeds, and such
other weeds as are washed from the banks of the river, hanging to
the branches.
The first notice we took of these signs of an extraordinary
swelling of the water, was twelve or fourteen miles lower down,
and where the river is not so confined in its breadth: there we
measured the same signs of such torrents twenty-eight feet above
the surface of the water: the common rise and fall of the tide
did not appear to be more than six feet.
On the banks here also we found yams and other roots, and had
evident marks of the natives frequenting these parts in search of
them for food. They have no doubt some method of preparing these
roots, before they can eat them; for we found one kind which some
of the company had seen the natives dig up; and with which being
pleased, as it had much the appearance of horse-radish, and had a
sweetish taste, and having swallowed a small quantity, it
occasioned violent spasms, cramps in the bowels, and sickness at
the stomach: it might probably be the casada root.
We found here many traps, for catching animals, in which we
observed the feathers of many birds, particularly the quail.
We now gave up the hope of tracing this river higher up with
our boats; and, as in case of heavy rains setting in, which might
be expected at this season of the year, there would be
considerable danger, while confined in this narrow part of the
river, we pushed down and encamped the night of the 6th, about
seven miles below Richmond-hill.
In the morning early, we set off on our return, and encamped
on the 7th at night, about twenty-six miles down: at seven in the
morning of the 8th, we embarked again, and by four in the evening
had reached a point about forty-three miles down, where we
pitched our tents for the night, which was very foggy. In our way
down, we stopped, and measured the perpendicular height of a hill
on the north side of the river, (or more properly one of the
banks of the river; for it is a long range of level land, and
nearly perpendicular from the water; the opposite shore is low
and marshy;) which I found to be 399 feet: the river was here 120
fathoms wide.
On the 9th in the morning, we proceeded to examine some of the
inferior branches; their general direction was to the southward,
and the longest was not more than five or six miles in length,
and was navigable for such boats as ours; the general depth was
three and four fathoms for about four miles up, and then shoal
water; the others were inconsiderable.
In one of these branches we passed the night of the 9th, and
saw a few natives, who came off to us in their boats with much
chearfulness and good humour; I thought I had seen them before:
they received a few presents, among which was a looking-glass,
which we took much trouble to show them the use of: they were
some time before they observed their own figure in the glass, but
when they did, they turned it up and looked behind it; then
pointed to the water, signifying that they could see their figure
reflected as well from that.
Having now examined every thing which was thought worth our
attention, we made the best of our way to Mullet-island, where we
landed on the 10th in the evening, and caught some fish. This
night, and all the next day, (11th,) it blew a gale of wind from
the southward, so that we were obliged to pass a second night
here. In the morning of the 12th, it was more moderate, although
very squally and unsettled; we struck our tents and sailed for
Pitt-water, where about noon we encamped upon a point pretty high
up.
In our way, we put ashore to fill some fresh water, and in a
cave near the stream we found a native woman, who appeared to
have been dead some time, for her skin was as hard as a piece of
leather; it was impossible to know whether she had died of the
small-pox or not.
In the morning of the 13th, as we intended to land well up
this branch, in order to avoid the most difficult and tiresome
part of the road to Port Jackson. We embarked, after we had
breakfasted, and rowed up about a couple of miles, when the party
for walking went on shore, each with his arms, and knapsack,
containing two days provisions; we were about half an hour in
getting through the wood, which led us to the sea-coast, where we
fell into our old and well known path, and by four o'clock in the
afternoon arrived at the north part of Port Jackson; but we might
as well have been fifty leagues off, for here we could have no
communication either with the Sirius or the settlement, and no
boat had been ordered to meet us. We went immediately to work and
made a large fire, by which we lay all night, which happened to
be very cold.
The next day we crossed the hills, and came to the mouth of
the north-west harbour, but could not find the means of crossing
it; muskets had been frequently fired during the night, in hopes
that some boat might have been down the harbour fishing, and
heard them. We found this morning a canoe upon the beach, with
which we had no doubt of getting two men across the water, who
could in a short time walk over to the cove where the Sirius lay;
but this prospect was disappointed by the first man who entered
the canoe having overset her, and she immediately sunk, and he
was obliged to swim ashore: after this we went to work and made a
catamaran, of the lightest wood we could find, but when finished
and launched, it would not, although pretty large, bear the
weight of one man.
It was now proposed to walk round the head of the north-west
harbour, which would have been a good long journey for at least
two days, and our provisions were nearly expended; to this
proposal I was under the necessity of objecting, for want of
shoes, the last march having tore all but the soals from my feet,
and they were tied on with spun-yarn; I therefore declined the
proposed walk, and determined to go back to Broken-bay and rejoin
the boats; which I had no doubt of being able to effect in the
course of that day, and with far more ease than I could, without
shoes, climb such rocky mountains, and thick woods, as lay in the
way round the head of the north-west harbour. But as it was
likely I might fall in with some parties of the natives in the
way, I wished to have a companion.
Captain Collins preferred accompanying me in the intended
walk, and we were just upon the point of setting out, when two of
the people who were with us proposed swimming over the water, and
to cross through the wood to the Sirius; the distance they had to
swim was not more than two cables length, or four hundred yards;
they immediately stripped, and each having had a dram, they tied
up in a handkerchief a shirt, trowsers, and a pair of shoes each,
which was rested upon their shoulders: thus equipped, they took
the water, and in seven minutes landed on the opposite shore; but
one being seized with the cramp, was obliged to disengage himself
from his bundle, which was of course lost: they set off through
the woods, and in a short time got on board the ship, the one
with his shirt and trowsers, the other perfectly naked.
Upon their information, a boat was sent down, and took us on
board, after a pretty fatiguing journey. I cannot help here
remarking how providential it was, that we did not all agree to
walk round the north-west harbour. At eight in the morning we
heard the report of a great gun, which led me to suspect that
some person belonging to the Sirius was missing, and had probably
been lost in the woods; we frequently fired muskets that morning,
and sometimes imagined we heard a musket at a considerable
distance in the woods; in consequence of this suspicion, we
frequently fired several together, and as often heard the report
of that which we believed was meant to answer us.
In short, by means of these repeated vollies, we drew nearer
to that which answered us, and by hallooing all together, found
we had got within hearing of the person who had answered our
firing; for, after calling out, we listened attentively, and
heard a very faint voice in answer; in that direction we walked,
and at last, by frequent calling, and answering, we found the
person out, who proved to be Peter White, sail-maker of the
Sirius; who had been four days lost, and when he set out from the
ship had not more than four ounces of biscuit with him, one ounce
of which he had still left; he was very faint, and appeared to us
to be stupid and almost exhausted, for he staggered like a man
drunk; we took him with us, and by giving him such provisions as
we had, in small proportions, he was in a few hours a good deal
recovered; but I think if he had not been found as he was, in
twenty-four hours more he would not have been able to make any
farther effort to save himself, and must have perished where he
lay down.
It is remarkable, that the flint of his gun being worn to a
stump, he could not get fire out of it the whole of the day
before, when trying to shoot some birds for his subsistence,
until night came on, when it was necessary for him to have a fire
to sleep by; he then tried it again with very little hope of
succeeding, but contrary to his expectations he got a fire and
sat by it the whole night; the next morning it failed him
repeatedly, until he had occasion to answer our musquets, when it
struck fire every time he wished to answer us, otherwise, in all
probability, we should not have found him. This is exactly his
own account.
In the end of August, the governor having expressed a wish to
have a survey made of Broken-Bay and Botany-Bay, I offered to
perform that service. The Sirius had some time ago been removed
from Sydney Cove, to a cove on the north side of the harbour,
much more convenient for giving her those repairs of which she
now stood so much in need. The carpenter and his crew, who had
been employed on shore upon the business of the settlement, ever
since our return from the last voyage, were now ordered on board,
to attend the repairs of the ship; a temporary wharf was built by
the ship's company, and a piece of ground levelled to receive the
provisions and stores: every person was now employed in
lightening the ship, and in cutting down timber for the repairs
wanted.
A survey upon the defects of the ship was ordered by Captain
Phillip, and she was reported to be very weak in her upper works;
several bolts were decayed under her wales, which occasioned her
making much water at sea; and that it was absolutely necessary to
examine as many of the butt bolts as possible: it was also
thought necessary to fix seven pair of top riders on each side,
to strengthen her upper works; various other defects were given
in.
While the ship's company were employed in lightening the ship,
and the carpenters were cutting down timber for riders and plank,
I determined, before any thing material in the repairs was set
about, to go round and make a survey of Broken-Bay: in this
excursion I was accompanied by several gentlemen of the
settlement; the boats were dispatched round, under the care of
Lieutenant Bradley, by whom, and Lieutenant Ball, of the Supply,
I was assisted in this work: the party went by land, but as I
wished also to make a sketch of the coast between the two
harbours, we determined to be two days on the journey, and to lye
all night in the woods. After taking a sketch of the coast, we
arrived at Pitt-Water, and joined the boats in the afternoon of
the second day. We visited all those parts, which are navigable
for shipping, and having before very particularly sounded and
examined all the branches here, the business was finished in
little more than a fortnight. Mr. Bradley returned with the
boats, and we walked along shore to Port Jackson.
The entrance of Broken-Bay lies in latitude 33° 34' south,
and longitude 151° 27' east; the bay is large and clear; the
distance from north to south head, is two miles, and the depth is
eight, ten, and twelve fathoms; but as you run up the bay it
shoals to six, seven, and five fathoms. Just within the north
head of the bay is the entrance of the northern branch, which,
from the shoalness of the water, is only navigable for boats, or
small vessels; the channel going in is very narrow, occasioned by
a long spit of sand, which extends from a low sandy point on the
west side of the entrance, and on which, when the wind is from
the eastward, the sea breaks very high.
A little within the south head of the bay is the entrance of
the Southern Branch or Pitt-Water; this is a good harbour, though
the entrance is rendered rather narrow by a shoal bank, which
extends from the eastern point full two-thirds across; keep the
west shore on board, which is pretty bold, and is a high, steep,
rocky point, and steer right up the branch; three fathoms is the
most you will have at low water, and that depth is only in the
narrows, which are of very short extent, for as you run up, you
very soon deepen to four, five, six, and eight fathoms; to the
shoal which narrows the entrance, it is very gradual soundings.
When you are above the second point on the west shore, you have
good depth of water and good room; you may run up in mid-channel
without fear; both shores are pretty bold to, except off the
points, from some of which it is shoal a small distance: in this
branch there are several coves, in which a ship might lighten and
careen; there is also fresh water in various parts of this
harbour, with wood in abundance, and fish may be caught in all
the sandy bays.
The entrance of this branch is divided from the south-west arm
by several rocky points; the land over them high and steep;
between which are some small sandy bays; and right off the mouth
of this arm is a very high rocky island, of but small extent; its
eastern end is very high and perpendicular; this island is a good
mark, for any part of the bay may be known, with certainty, by
the situation of it, which the chart will point out. If a
stranger were coming in here for shelter in a gale of wind, I
would recommend his pushing up the south-west arm, and steering
in for the island, which is now called Mount Elliot, from its
similarity to the north end of Gibraltar Rock.
You may pass on either side, but the south side is fairest for
going up the south-west arm; keep mid-channel between the island
and south shore: this shore is so bold that you may run within
two cables length of it. In your way up you will perceive a
branch on the north side, which runs up north-west; when thus
high, you are above a bank or middle ground, on which the least
water is 16 feet; you may, by keeping near the shore, pass on
either side of this shoal, which has gradual soundings to it; the
south side has most room and deepest water; the north side has
five fathoms: when above this, you may keep in the middle, if you
wish to go higher, and the least water will be five or six
fathoms for several miles higher: from this south-west arm
several branches extend, most of which have good depth of water,
but the chart will be the best guide.
If you wish to enter the north-west branch, enter it by
keeping the larboard shore on board, and for some distance up, as
from the starboard shore a shoal extends one-third of the
distance over.
After having rested a few days, I determined not to lose any
time, but go immediately and make a survey of Botany-Bay, while
the weather was cool and pleasant.
Towards the end of September, two boats with provisions,
tents, etc. were got ready, and dispatched round, under the
care of Mr. Keltie, the master of the Sirius, by whom, and Mr.
Blackburn, the master of the Supply, I was assisted in my work at
Botany-Bay. A few gentlemen of the settlement having signified a
wish to accompany me, the party resolved to walk over and meet
the boats there; this route being now well known, and the path
well trodden, it was not an unpleasant walk. We joined the boats
about noon, and found our tents pitched.
The same afternoon we began our operations, and in about ten
days had finished the survey of the bay. The anchorage in this
bay, as I have before observed, is extensive, and the passage
into it easy; there is a cluster of rocks, which lie
south-south-east, about two cables length from a little bare
island on the north shore, on which the sea frequently breaks
very high; but if you keep Cape Banks open, you will avoid them;
both shores are bold to, till you come thus high. A little above
Point Southerland (south shore) is another patch of rocks, which,
to avoid in turning, keep the land below this point open.
Although the anchorage here is extensive, yet by looking at the
chart, it will appear a small spot for so very large a piece of
water: from both the north and south sides, and from the bottom
of the bay, the flats run off a great distance, from four to
fifteen feet water.
I did formerly believe, that there was an easy channel over
the flats into the west river, but on this examination I think it
rather difficult, if practicable at all, as the soundings are
very irregular.
This river in some parts has good depth, and that near and
within its entrance; but higher up it is all shoal water, and
full of knowls of sand; in short, it is only to be navigated by
boats: it has two branches, in which there are several coves, or
bays, containing shoal water.
After having gone to the head of this river, and returned to
the bay again, we then entered a small river which empties itself
in the north-west part of the bay; this river, as far as I went
up, which was about five miles, is all shoal water (it has since
been examined to the head by Lieutenant Bradley): in short, these
rivers were _with me_ no object at this time to throw away
time upon; I therefore made no other survey than an eye sketch;
every reach is laid down true with respect to direction; the
soundings are the depth at or near low water; and the distance is
estimated by short portions at a time, that they might be the
more correct.
It will easily be perceived, by looking at the draft of this
bay, that it is not possible to lie land locked with a ship in
any part of it; you will always be exposed to the large sea which
tumbles in here with an easterly wind. The edge of the flatts (in
three fathoms) is determined by many intersections, so that its
extent is pretty nearly ascertained.
In the end of October it was judged necessary to shorten the
allowance of provisions one-third; for although we might expect
store-ships from England by the end of January, 1790, yet as
there did not remain above five months provisions in the
settlement, the governor thought it necessary to issue an order
for two-thirds allowance to commence the 1st of November.
Having finished the placing of the top riders in the Sirius by
the end of October, we took our provisions and stores on board;
and on the 7th of November, we moved the ship from Careening Cove
over to Sydney Cove.
A few days before that time, John Mara, the gunner's mate, had
been missing, and was supposed to have been lost in the woods;
parties were sent out in search of him: the third day after he
disappeared, I was going up the harbour in a boat early in the
morning, and some distance up, I thought I heard the voice of a
man upon the north shore; we lay upon the oars a considerable
time, and listened attentively; we again heard the voice, and
rowed immediately towards that part of the shore from whence the
voice came, and there we found the person missing: he was sitting
upon a rock, was exceedingly faint, and scarcely able to get into
the boat; having had nothing to eat during his absence but an
herb which the people use by way of tea, and which is so
palatable they can drink it without sugar; it has exactly the
taste of liquorish root. I interrogated him with respect to the
manner of his losing himself; he said, "That having been sent on
shore in the evening to fill a few water-casks, which were landed
at a run of water near the ship, and that having just before he
was sent on shore taken a copious drink of grog, he felt himself,
soon after he landed, a good deal disposed to sleep; that the
weather being warm, and the evening well advanced, he laid down
upon the hill, some distance from the run of water, and fell fast
asleep upon the grass; that he did not wake until it was late,
and the night being dark, and he a little confused when he awoke,
he went farther into the wood instead of coming out of it, and by
that means lost himself entirely." He also said, "That when I
took him up, he was so exhausted that he should not have been
able to walk much longer, and that he had only reached the
water-side the night before."
He had no arms of any kind; it was therefore fortunate that he
did not fall in with any of the natives, as we have much reason
to believe that they are disposed to take the advantage of those
they meet without fire-arms.
The night before we left Careening Cove, Mr. Francis Hill, one
of the master's mates, had desired permission to go over to
Sydney Cove, and to return early the next morning; he went over,
and was the next morning early put across to the nearest part of
the north shore, intending to walk round to the ship, a route
which had been often taken by many of our gentlemen, and was not
more than an hour and a half's walk, but in this short distance
Mr. Hill lost himself. The next day, parties were sent out
different ways, and boats were sent both up and down the harbour
in search of him; a gun for their and his direction was fired
from the ship every two hours, and this continued for two days.
The third day, many additional parties were sent, to the number
of nine or ten; in short, every piece of ground where it was
thought possible he might have passed, was traversed over and
over by the different parties, but without effect; we had,
therefore, much reason to believe that he fell in with a party of
the natives, who probably murdered him, for he had no arms of any
kind with him.
That this opinion of a disposition in the natives to take
advantage of a single person, particularly when unarmed, is not
ill founded, we have had many instances to prove; one of which in
this place may suffice, as it had happened very recently, and
near to the place where Mr. Hill was lost. A man belonging to the
Sirius, who had generally been employed in shooting for the
officers, was, a few days previous to the supposed death of Mr.
Hill, in the woods looking for game, and had been seen by a party
of the natives from the skirts of a wood; they had not been
observed by him, and taking the advantage of that, threw a large
stone at him, which very narrowly missed his head, at which it
was very well aimed; had it hit him, it would have knocked him
down and deprived him of his senses, which opportunity they would
no doubt have availed themselves of to dispatch him; but as they
did not succeed in their attempt, they stood their ground, and he
fired a charge of small shot at them, which I suppose they felt
no inconvenience from, as they laughed at him, and advanced with
their lances; he was pretty quick in loading his gun again, into
which he put a heavy charge of buck shot, and as they appeared to
him to be determined on mischief, he resolved, for his own
safety, to be before-hand with them; he took very good aim, and
fired right amongst them; two of them fell, and the rest, with
great precipitation, made off, but he believed they carried their
wounded (probably dead) friends with them; he stood where he was
and loaded his gun, then came towards the ship without seeing any
more of them. They are exceedingly terrified by fire-arms.
There was one circumstance which disposed me to believe that
Mr. Hill had been murdered by the people of the country, which
was, that one of the boats which went down the harbour to look
for him put a-shore in one of the coves in the north part of it;
the young gentleman who had charge of this duty went up the
beach, with five of the boat's crew, while two remained to take
care of the boat; they had only been landed a few minutes, and
were near the skirt of the wood, when two spears were launched
from a rising ground; one of which struck the hat of one of the
seamen; and as no fire-arms had appeared, the natives showed
themselves, to the number of between twenty and thirty; the
midshipman and the sailors returned to the boat, and brought up a
musquet loaded with ball, which the natives observing, all
disappeared, except two, and the ball was fired at them; whether
with or without effect we knew not, but they also disappeared
immediately.
These hostile appearances, I think, may have been the effect
of their success, in having lately murdered some of our people;
for as we have had several such accidents here, we have had an
opportunity of remarking, that they have generally shown
immediately after them, a more than ordinary degree of
hostility.
The want of one of the people of this country, who, from a
habit of living amongst us, might have been the means of
preventing much of this hostile disposition in them towards us,
was much to be lamented. If poor Ara-ba-noo had lived, he would
have acquired enough of our language to have understood whatever
we wished him to communicate to his countrymen; he could have
made them perfectly understand, that we wished to live with them
on the most friendly footing, and that we wished to promote, as
much as might be in our power, their comfort and happiness.
The two children mentioned formerly, and who were very happy
amongst us, were yet too young to be of use in reconciling the
natives to us; they now understood almost every thing we said,
and could make themselves very well understood; but the governor
was desirous of having a man or two in our possession, to whom we
might teach enough of our language without the danger of losing
any part of their own, to render them useful to their countrymen;
it had therefore for some time past been in agitation to
endeavour, by force, to secure one or two.
For that purpose, on the 25th of November, Lieutenant Bradley,
with some other officers, and a party of men, were sent down the
harbour in an armed boat: they went to the north part of the
harbour, where, upon one of the sandy beaches, they observed two
native men walking; they immediately formed a scheme to entice
them to a conversation; for that purpose, a few large fish were
held up, and they were called to, which had the desired effect;
the men with much confidence came forward unarmed, and with much
chearfulness received the fish, and held a conversation with
those who presented them.
At this time there were about five of our people upon the
beach, and the boat lying afloat, with her stern close to the
shore, and the sailors lying on their oars: Mr. Bradley, who was
in the stern of the boat, seeing the opportunity good, gave the
signal for securing them; in a moment their heels were knocked
up, and they were tumbled into the boat, followed by those who
secured them, and the boat pulled immediately off. They called
out to their friends the moment they were taken hold of, but
though a considerable number appeared in the skirt of the wood,
on seeing arms in the hands of those in the boat, who stood up
ready to fire, they did not venture an attack. The men were
lashed to the thwarts of the boat, on their first being taken
into her, but after having got to such a distance from the shore,
as to prevent the possibility of an escape, their hands were
loosed, and they were secured by only one leg; but until they
were thus far liberated, their terror was considerable.
On their being landed at Sydney-Cove, they were immediately
taken up to the governor's house, where they were very kindly
treated; but to prevent any attempt to escape being at all
probable, they had each an iron-shackle put on one of their legs,
to which a piece of rope was spliced, and a man was ordered for
each, who was to be answerable for their security; wherever they
went those keepers accompanied them, holding one end of the rope.
When these two strangers landed in Sydney-Cove, many people,
prompted by curiosity, went to see them; among that number were
the boy and girl, natives, whose names, I think, when speaking of
them, I have never yet mentioned; the girl was called _A-ba-roo_,
and the boy _Nan-bar-ry_, or _Bal-der-ry:_ the moment they saw
the men, they with raptures of joy called them both by their
names; the children were also known to them, and it was not
improbable but that their very comfortable appearance, after
having lived so long amongst us, might, in some degree, calm
that perturbation of mind, which we would naturally believe
might attend them in such a state of captivity; for it should be
recollected, that not one of those natives whom we have had amongst
us, had ever returned to inform their friends, what kind of
treatment they had met with from us; it was therefore not to be
wondered at, if they supposed that such as fell into our hands
were put to death.
The two old men who were picked up when very ill with the
small-pox, at the time _A-ba-roo_ and _Nan-bar-ry_ were
found, (and whom we believed to be the fathers of the children)
died very soon. Poor _Ara-ba-noo_, who was at liberty to go
where he pleased some time before he died, was so well reconciled
to us, that he never showed the smallest inclination to go from
us; he unfortunately did not survive the small-pox, and the girl
and boy were now so accustomed to our manner of living, that it
was not at all probable they would relish that of their own
country.
We soon discovered, upon the arrival of these two strangers,
whom the children called by name, that one was a chief, or
distinguished person, among those of the tribe of
-Ca-di-gal_; his name was _Co-al-by_; he was a man of
about 35 years of age; the other was about 25 years old, and was
called by several different names, such as _Ba-na-lang,
Vogle-troo-ye_, or _Vo-la-ra-very_; the first we thought
his proper name, the others we understood from himself were names
by which some of his particular connections were distinguished,
and which he had, upon their death, taken up: this man was a very
good looking young fellow, of a pleasant lively disposition.
The presence of _Co-al-by_ seemed to be a check upon the
chearful temper of _Ba-na-lang_, which inclined us to think
that he paid a kind of deference to him; he was always very
silent in his company.
Seventeen days after these people were taken, they appeared so
well satisfied, that their keepers began to be less apprehensive
of their attempting to make their escape, which they did not fail
to notice, and had no doubt laid a plan to avail themselves of,
for they were very far from being destitute of observation and
cunning. One evening, when it was pretty dark, their keepers were
sitting within the door of their house, eating their supper;
_Ba-na-lang_ was within also, and employed in the same
manner; _Co-al-by_ was at the door, sitting just on the
outside, and had with him something for his supper, which he
pretended to be employed about, the end of his rope was in the
hand of his keeper; while they in the inside were thus amused,
-Co-al-by_ drew the splice of his rope from the shackle, and
in a moment was over the paling of the yard, and out of sight; an
immediate search was made for him, but without effect, we saw him
no more: however we heard afterwards that he joined his friends
again, and will no doubt be careful how he confides hereafter in
us: his friends would certainly be something surprized to see him
so well cloathed, for he carried off his whole wardrobe. I
suppose it would cost him some trouble to get the shackle from
his leg, which was riveted on.
The other man was much more chearful after _Co-al-by-'s
absence, which confirmed our conjecture, and the children's
account, that he was a man more distinguished in his tribe than
-Ba-na-lang_.
In the month of January, 1790, in every company, the
conversation turned upon the long expected arrivals from England,
which we had been for some past in daily expectation of, with a
supply of provisions; our store here was now in a very exhausted
state, much more so than we ever expected it would have been: for
it was the general opinion, that I should the last year, on my
arrival at the Cape of Good Hope, have there met with store-ships
bound to this country, as it was always understood that the
settlement would never have been reduced lower than one year's
provisions in store.
We landed in this country with two years provisions, at least
with what was supposed, when we sailed from England, would be the
case; that time was now elapsed, yet we had not been visited by
any ships from Europe, and we still had remaining provisions, at
half allowance, to last until June. We all looked forward with
hope for arrivals with a relief; and that every assistance
necessary for strangers might be at hand, I offered, with a few
men from the Sirius, to go down to the south head of the harbour,
there to build a lookout-house, and erect a flag-staff upon the
height, which might be seen from the sea; and which might also
communicate information of ships in the offing to the governor at
Sydney-cove.
The governor approved my proposals. I went down with six men,
and was accompanied by Mr. White and Mr. Worgan, the surgeons of
the settlement and Sirius. We erected a flag-staff, and lived in
a tent for ten days, in which time we compleated a tolerably good
house. At the end of ten days, I was relieved by Mr. Bradley with
a fresh party.