February 1791 to March 1791
Great improvement of the country at Rose Hill.--Vicissitude of the
climate. Norfolk Island remarkably healthy.--A native runs away from
the settlement.--Frequent visits from the natives.--Governor Phillip
wounded by the natives with a spear.--Natives again visit the
settlement.--Entertain the governor, etc. with a dance.--Decorate
themselves for that purpose. Method of dancing described.--Music
and singing.-
After my arrival at Port Jackson I went to Rose Hill, where
great improvements were carrying on; a considerable town was laid
out, many good buildings were erected, and roads were cut, with
about two hundred and thirteen acres of land cleared for corn,
and eighty acres for buildings and gardens; that is, the trees
were cut down, but the roots remained in the ground, which would
certainly lessen the quantity of cleared ground; this ground
being grubbed up and laid open, gave me an opportunity of
examining what the soil consisted of, and although I do not
pretend to any knowledge in farming, yet I thought it required no
very great judgment to perceive and determine this favourite spot
(which, to do it justice, is certainly better than any upon or
near this harbour) to be a poor, sandy, steril, soil; the surface
is covered a few inches deep with a soil which seems to be
produced from decayed vegetation, rotten leaves, burnt and
withered grass; and under that is a mere bed of sand.
Rose Hill is certainly a pretty situation, but the country
will require much manure, much dressing, and good farmers to
manage it, before good crops can be expected from it; the best
they have ever had, I have been informed, has amounted only to
six or seven to one, and this last season has been little more
than two to one, but that may in some measure be accounted for by
there being a great scarcity of rain.
If it be the determination of government to persevere in
establishing a settlement in this country, upon an extensive
plan, the nation must be contented to submit to a very heavy
expence. It must be stocked with cattle, were it only for the
manure, for without manure this country is too poor ever to yield
tolerable crops; and if it should be resolved upon to stock it
with cattle, it will be found highly necessary to employ a
considerable number of people in the care of them, to prevent
their being frequently attacked by the natives, whom we know are
frequently driven to very great distress for food.
The country about Rose Hill, which I have formerly mentioned
as requiring not much labour in clearing, from its being covered
only with lofty, open woods, without any underwood, and which I
then observed ran to the westward about twenty miles, has since
been travelled over by several gentlemen, who admit that that
kind of country does extend near the distance above-mentioned to
the westward, but in a north and south direction, it does not
extend more than three or four miles, when you come again into
barren, rocky land, wholly unfit for cultivation; in short, as I
have walked over a good deal of ground since I have been here,
and have frequently travelled from Botany-Bay to Broken-Bay along
the sea coast, I can with much truth declare, that I have never
met with a piece of ground any where sufficient for a small farm,
which has not been so rocky as to be unfit for cultivation; the
best of it appears to be a poor, miserable, sandy soil; and what
must subject those who live on it to much inconvenience is, the
very great scarcity of water.
Upon my arrival here from Norfolk Island, all the streams from
which we were formerly supplied, except a small drain at the head
of Sydney-Cove, were entirely dried up, so great had been the
drought; a circumstance, which from the very intense heat of the
summer, I think it probable we shall be very frequently subject
to. This frequent reduction of the streams of fresh water
disposes me to think, that they originate from swamps and large
collections of rain water, more than from springs.
When the sudden vicissitudes of heat and cold are considered,
we might be too apt to pronounce this country very unhealthy; but
near four years experience has convinced us that it is not the
case: it is no uncommon thing at Rose Hill, and frequently at
Sydney, for the thermometer to be in the morning at 56° or
60°; and by two hours, afternoon, at 100°, sometimes
112°; and after sun-set, down to 60° again; this is, with
the thermometer exposed to the air, in a shade, and not within
the house. When I went last to Rose Hill, I left Sydney at five
o'clock in the morning, and rowed up the harbour, a great coat
was then comfortable; at noon I walked over the cleared ground,
the thermometer was then more than 100°.
Norfolk Island is also subject to such sudden changes, but is
also remarkably healthy. I do not think I can give a stronger
proof of the salubrity of the climate, than by observing, that I
never saw the constitutions either of the human race or any other
animal, more prolific in any part of the world; two children at a
birth is no uncommon thing, and elderly women, who have believed
themselves long past the period of child-bearing, have repeatedly
had as fine healthy strong children as ever were seen. And there
has but one old woman, who was sickly before she came to the
country, and one infant, died of a natural disease on the island,
since it has been settled.
I have some time ago mentioned the name of Ba-na-lang, a
native man, who had been taken in the lower part of the harbour,
with another of the name of Co-al-by, who soon after made his
escape. Ba-na-lang had been kept in his shackle, and treated with
so much kindness, that it was now supposed he might be trusted
with his liberty, without any fear of his leaving us; he was
therefore, in the month of April, 1790, which was soon after we
left Port Jackson for Norfolk Island, set at liberty, and did not
appear at all disposed to leave the governor's house, or absent
himself from his new acquired friends; this appearance of
satisfaction he feigned with success for several days, for no
person seemed to suspect him; he at last, however, took French
leave; having, after dark, one evening, stripped himself of his
very decent cloathing, left them behind, and walked off. Both he
and Co-al-by were frequently seen by our fishing-boats, and were
so familiar as to converse with the people, who often invited
them to come up to Sydney (the name by which the settlement is
called) but this invitation they were not much disposed to
accept, until the governor in person should invite them, and give
them his promise that they should not be detained; the governor
did invite them, and promised to give them many things, of which
they were very much in want.
It was scarcely to be expected that these people, who had been
deprived of their liberty in so treacherous a manner, and had
been so long detained from their families and connections, should
have had confidence enough to trust their liberty again in our
hands; however, as the governor and every other person in the
settlement had ever been kind to them, they were inclined to
depend on the governor's promise, and did come to Sydney; were
kindly received, went from house to house, and saw all their old
acquaintances; they received many little presents, and returned
to their friends when they thought proper.
This confidential visit from two men, who appeared to have
some influence among their countrymen, soon brought about a more
general intercourse, and the next visit from those men brought
the same favour from their wives and families, whose example was
followed by many others; so that every gentleman's house was now
become a resting or sleeping place for some of them every night;
whenever they were pressed for hunger, they had immediate
recourse to our quarters, where they generally got their bellies
filled. They were now become exceedingly fond of bread, which
when we came here first, they could not bear to put into their
mouths; and if ever they did, it was out of civility to those who
offered it; but now the little children had all learnt the words,
-hungry, bread_; and would, to show that they were hungry,
draw in their belly, so as to make it appear quite empty.
Co-al-by's wife had a young female child in her arms, about
three or four months old; this little creature had a ligature
round the little finger of the right hand, in order to separate
the two lower joints, which in the course of three weeks or a
month it effected: I saw it just as the finger was about dropping
off, but as it hung by a bit of skin, they begged Mr. White, the
surgeon, to take it off, which he did, with a pair of scissars,
and which the child did not seem to feel. This taking off the
finger of the right hand appeared to be a mistake in the mother,
who frequently pointed that it should have been the left
hand.
A short time previous to this friendly and general visiting
from the natives, the governor, as I have already observed, in
order to dispose them the more to confide in us, went down the
harbour himself, to see and converse with our old friends
Ba-na-lang and Co-al-by, and to invite them to come to his house,
where they should get whatever they might be in want of; and be
permitted to return when they pleased. The governor having
received information that these two men with several other
natives were in Collins's-Cove, went thither, accompanied by
several other gentlemen, and they were all unarmed; this
unfortunate want of necessary caution had very near proved fatal
to the governor; the particulars of this accident were related to
me by an officer who was of the party, and were, as near as I can
recollect, as follows:
On Thursday the 7th of September, the governor, with a few
other gentlemen, went down to the look-out, in order to fix on a
spot for erecting a column, or pyramid, as a mark, by which
strangers might, at sea, the better know the harbour; and were
returning, when they were met by a boat which had been landing a
party of gentlemen, who intended walking along the coast to
Broken-bay: by the cockswain of this boat, the governor was
informed, that Mr. White, who was one of the above party, had
seen Co-al-by and Ba-na-lang, and had a long conversation with
them; that these men enquired for every body they knew, and
particularly for the governor; that they had sent his excellency
a piece of whale, which had been thrown on shore, and which they
had been regaling themselves upon; that Ba-na-lang would go up to
Sydney, if the governor would come for him.
In consequence of this information, the governor returned to
the look-out, and got together every thing that he could find,
which he thought would be acceptable to his old friends: he also
took with him four muskets, and went immediately to
Collins's-Cove, where those people had been seen. In their way
they examined the muskets, and found that only two of the four
would strike fire, and these they loaded: when they reached the
place, they observed a number of the natives sitting round a fire
which was near the place where the dead whale lay; the governor
stood up in the boat, and asked in their language where
Ba-na-lang was; Ba-na-lang answered, I am here; the governor then
said, I am the governor your father; (a name he wished the
governor to be known by when he lived with him.) The governor,
after desiring Captain Collins and Mr. Waterhouse to remain in
the boat, and to have the muskets ready, landed, and walked up
the beach with his arms extended, to show that he was unarmed,
and that they might not be alarmed: they did not seem inclined to
meet him; however he followed them into the wood, and one of them
frequently called out governor and father; in consequence of
this, and having shook hands in a friendly manner, the governor
returned to the boat, and desired one of the men to bring up some
wine, beef, and bread, and a jacket or two, which had been
brought on purpose, and went back with those articles to them: on
his holding up a bottle, one of them called out wine, and
repeated several English words; two of the natives came forward
and received the things, and one drank a little wine; they had
likewise received from the governor a few knives.
In a short time, the governor came to the boat again, and
mentioned all that had happened; observing at the same time, that
Ba-na-lang and Co-al-by were not among the number: he asked
Captain Collins to walk up with him, and desired Mr. Waterhouse
to stay by the boat. When they went up, Mr. Waterhouse frequently
heard one of the natives call to Ba-na-lang, and informed him of
what observations he made upon those who remained in the boat,
the people being employed in keeping her afloat, upon her oars.
Shortly after, one of the men came down from the governor, and
informed Mr. Waterhouse, that both Ba-na-lang and Co-al-by were
there, and that the former had frequently asked for Mr.
Waterhouse, and the governor desired he would come up, which he
did. On his arrival, he observed a considerable number of the
natives on each side, and eight or ten in front, all armed with
their spears, except two, with whom the governor and Captain
Collins were in conversation.
Mr. Waterhouse went up, but did not know Ba-na-lang, until he
was pointed out to him; he then shook hands with him and
Co-al-by. Ba-na-lang had at this time two jackets on, which he
had received from the governor and Captain Collins; Co-al-by had
also a jacket given him; after Ba-na-lang had been asked several
questions, he took Mr. Waterhouse round the neck and kissed him;
these questions were relative to various circumstances which
happened while he lived with the governor, all of which he seemed
to recollect very well: Co-al-by shook hands again with Mr.
Waterhouse, and begged him to put on the jacket which had been
given, and which he held in his hand, not knowing how to put it
on himself, which Mr. Waterhouse did for him. Ba-na-lang, on the
governor's first meeting him, had a remarkable fine spear, which
the governor asked him for, but he either could not or would not
understand him, but laid it down on the ground.
During all this time, there was the greatest appearance of
harmony and friendship. However, the natives seemed closing round
the party, which being observed, the governor proposed going down
to the boat, for they had by this time nearly formed a crescent,
and had the governor's party in the centre: there were now
nineteen armed men near, and a considerable number in the wood
out of sight. The governor now told Ba-na-lang that he would
return in two days, and bring him the cloaths he used to wear
when in his house, and would also bring him a couple of hatchets
for himself and Co-al-by; with which promise they seemed well
pleased, and often repeated that it might not be forgot.
Just as the governor and his party were going, Ba-na-lang
pointed out and named several of the natives who were strangers,
one of whom the governor went up to and offered to shake his
hands, at which the man seemed much terrified, and immediately
seized the spear, which Ba-na-lang had laid on the ground, fixed
it on the throwing-stick, and discharged it with astonishing
violence: he with all his associates made off with the utmost
precipitation. The spear entered the governor's right shoulder,
just above the collar-bone, and came out about three inches lower
down, behind the shoulder-blade.
Mr. Waterhouse, who was close by the governor at the time,
supposed that it must be mortal, for the spear appeared to him to
be much lower down than it really was, and supposed, from the
number of armed men, that it would be impossible for any of the
party to escape to the boat. He turned round immediately to
return to the boat, as he perceived Captain Collins to go that
way, calling to the boat's crew to bring up the muskets; the
governor also attempted to run towards the boat, holding up the
spear with both hands, to keep it off the ground, but owing to
its great length, the end frequently took the ground and stopped
him (it was about twelve feet long). Governor Phillip, in this
situation, desired Mr. Waterhouse to endeavour, if possible, to
take the spear out, which he immediately attempted, but observing
it to be barbed, and the barb quite through, he saw it would be
impossible to draw it out; he therefore endeavoured to break it,
but could not.
While he was making this attempt, another spear was thrown out
of the wood, and took off the skin between Mr. Waterhouse's
fore-finger and thumb, which alarmed him a good deal, and he
thinks added power to his exertions, for the next attempt, he
broke it off. By this time, the spears flew pretty thick, one of
which he observed to fall at Captain Collins's feet, while he was
calling to the boat's crew: the governor attempted to pull a
pistol out of his pocket, but the spears flew so thick, that it
was unsafe to stop: however he got it out and fired it, upon a
supposition, that their knowing he had some fire-arms would deter
them from any further hostility.
The whole party got down to the boat without any further
accident, and in two hours they arrived at the government-house,
when the surgeons were sent for: Mr. Balmain, who was the first
that arrived, after examining the wound, made every body happy,
by assuring them he did not apprehend any fatal consequences from
it; he extracted the point of the spear, and dressed the wound,
and in six weeks the governor was perfectly recovered.
Immediately on the arrival of the governor at Sydney, it was
judged necessary to send an armed party of marines towards
Broken-bay, to escort the gentlemen who had walked that way back
again; lest the same hostile disposition in the natives, should
incline them to make an attack on them on their return.
Before I left Port Jackson, the natives were become very
familiar and intimate with every person in the settlement; many
of them now took up their rest every night in some of the
gentlemen's houses; their very unprovoked attack on the governor
and his party being passed over and almost forgot.
We have frequently observed, since this familiar intercourse
took place, that they often had a dance amongst themselves at
night, on the lower part of Sydney-cove, where a small house had
been built by the governor's order, for their accommodation. It
had been signified to some of the principal amongst them, that we
should be glad to have an opportunity of seeing them dance, which
they readily agreed to, and the following night was appointed,
when the governor and a considerable number attended; every one
being provided with arms of some kind: a caution which,
notwithstanding friendly appearances, was generally allowed to be
necessary; for experience had convinced us that these people have
a good deal of treachery in their disposition.
Preparatory to this exhibition, much attention was paid to the
decorating themselves; they were all Adams and Eves, without even
a fig-leaf, but without their dignity. The young women were
employed with all their art in painting the young men, who were
chiefly ornamented with streaks of white, done with pipe-clay,
and in different forms, according to the taste of the man
himself, or to that of the lady who adorned him: no fop preparing
for an assembly was ever more desirous of making his person
irresistibly beautiful. This paint, so much in use among them,
could not be applied without a little moisture, and the lady, in
drawing those marks on the face, which were so essential a part
of the decoration, I observed frequently to spit in the face of
her friend, whom she was employed in adorning, in order to make
the white clay mark the stronger. When they were all prepared, we
walked down to the place appointed, after dark, for they prefer
taking their amusement by fire-light; we found several fires
lighted, and a considerable number of people assembled. We walked
round to see that there were no armed lurkers among the
bushes.
The dancers being ready, we were placed in a semicircle, by
Ba-na-lang, and Co-al-by, who seemed to have the chief authority
and direction. The dance was begun by a few young boys, and was
encreased by men and women, chiefly by the former, until their
number amounted from twenty to twenty-six. Their dance was truly
wild and savage, yet, in many parts, there appeared order and
regularity: one man would frequently single himself out from the
dance, and running round the whole of the performers, sing out in
a loud voice, using some expressions in one particular tone of
voice which we could not understand: he would then join the
dance, in which it was observed that certain parties alternately
led forward to the front, and there exhibited with their utmost
skill and agility, all the various motions which, with them,
seemed to constitute the principal beauties of dancing: one of
the most striking was, that of placing their feet very wide
apart, and by an extraordinary exertion of the muscles of the
thighs and legs, moving the knees in a trembling and very
surprizing manner, such as none of us could imitate; which seemed
to show that it required much practice to arrive at any degree of
perfection in this singular motion.
There appeared a good deal of variety in their different
dances; in one of which they paired themselves, and frequently
danced back to back; they then changed suddenly and faced each
other: sometimes all the performers sat down on the ground with
their feet under them, and at a particular word, or order, they
all raised themselves up: this motion they performed without any
assistance from the hands; now they ran back in direct rows, then
advanced in the same order; again they would form a circle, with
some distinguished person in the center, and sometimes the whole
of the performers would appear with a green bough in their hands,
which they held up in a conspicuous manner.
In all the different figures which they performed, I observed
that they generally finished by certain numbers of their
principal dancers advancing to the front, and going through that
favourite part of the dance, the quivering motion of the knees;
whenever this was done, the whole company faced to the front and
went through the same motions; but it was noticed that some were
more frequently in the front than others, and those, I concluded,
were such as had great confidence in their own skill in the
execution of this very difficult part of the performance, and no
doubt were vain enough to outshine in their ability the rest of
the company.
On the whole, this exhibition was well worth seeing; and this
was the first opportunity that had offered for us to see any
thing of the kind, since we had been in the country. Their music
consisted of two sticks of very hard wood, one of which the
musician held upon his breast, in the manner of a violin, and
struck it with the other, in good and regular time; the
performer, who was a stout strong voiced man, sung the whole
time, and frequently applied those graces in music, the piano and
forte; he was assisted by several young boys and girls, who sat
at his feet, and by their manner of crossing the thighs, made a
hollow between them and their belly, upon which they beat time
with the flat of their hand, so as to make a kind of sound which
will be better understood from the manner of its being produced,
than from any verbal description: these children also sung with
the chief musical performer, who stood up the whole time, and
seemed to me to have the most laborious part of the
performance.
They very frequently, at the conclusion of the dance, would
apply to us for our opinions, or rather for marks of our
approbation of their performance; which we never failed to give
by often repeating the word _boojery_, which signifies good;
or _boojery caribberie_, a good dance. These signs of
pleasure in us seemed to give them great satisfaction, and
generally produced more than ordinary exertions from the whole
company of performers in the next dance.