Sunday 6th July 1806
Some frost this morning the last night was so cold that I could not
Sleep. we Collected our horses which were much scattered which detained
us untill 9 A.M. at which time we Set out and proceeded up the Creek on
which we camped 3 Miles and left the road which we came on last fall to
our right and assended a ridge with a gentle Slope to the dividing
mountain which Seperates the waters from the Middle fork of Clarks
river from those and Lewis's river and passed over prosueing the rout
of the Oat lash shute band which we met last fall to the head of a
branch of Wisdom R and down the Said branch crossing it frequently on
each Side of this handsom glades in which I observe great quantities of
quawmash just beginning to blume on each side of those glades the
timber is small and a great propotion of it Killed by the fires. I
observe the appearance of old buffalow roads and some heads on this
part of the mountain. The Snow appears to lying in considerable masses
on the mountain from which we decended on the 4th of Septr. last. I
observe great numbers of the whistleing Squirel which burrows their
holes Scattered on each Side of the glades through which we passed.
Shields killed a hare of the large mountain Species. the after part of
the day we passed on the hill Side N of the Creek for 6 Ms. Creek and
entered an extensive open Leavel plain in which the Indian trail
Scattered in Such a manner that we Could not pursue it. the Indian
woman wife to Shabono informed me that she had been in this plain
frequently and knew it well that the Creek which we decended was a
branch of Wisdom river and when we assended the higher part of the
plain we would discover a gap in the mountains in our direction to the
Canoes, and when we arived at that gap we would See a high point of a
mountain covered with snow in our direction to the canoes. we proceeded
on 1 mile and Crossd. a large Creek from the right which heads in a
Snow Mountain and Fish Creek over which there was a road thro a gap. we
assended a Small rise and beheld an open boutifull Leavel Vally or
plain of about 20 Miles wide and near 60 long extending N & S. in every
direction around which I could see high points of Mountains Covered
with Snow. I discovered one at a distance very high covered with Snow
which bore S. 80° E. The Squar pointed to the gap through which she said
we must pass which was S. 56° E. She said we would pass the river before
we reached the gap. we had not proceeded more than 2 Miles in the last
Creek, before a violent Storm of wind accompand. with hard rain from
the S W. imediately from off the Snow Mountains this rain was Cold and
lasted 11/2 hours. I discovd. the rain wind as it approached and halted
and formd. a solid column to protect our Selves from the Violency of
the gust. after it was over I proceeded on about 5 Miles to Some Small
dry timber on a Small Creek and encampd. made large fires and dryed our
Selves. here I observed Some fresh Indian Signs where they had been
gathering quawmash.
[Clark, July 7, 1806]
Monday 7th July 1806
This morning our horses were very much Scattered; I Sent out men in
every direction in Serch of them. they brought all except 9 by 6 oClock
and informed me that they could not find those 9. I then ordered 6 men
to take horses and go different directions and at a greater distance
those men all returned by 10 A.M. and informed me that they had circles
in every direction to 6 or 8 miles around Camp and could not See any
Signs of them, that they had reasons to believe that the indians had
Stolen them in the course of the night, and founded their reasons on
the quallity of the horses, all being the most valuable horses we had,
and Several of them so attached to horses of inferior quallity which we
have they could not be Seperated from each other when driveing with
their loads on in the course of the day. I thought it probable that
they might be stolen by Some Skulking Shoshones, but as it was yet
possible that they may have taken our back rout or rambled to a greater
distance I deturmined to leave a Small party and hunt for them to day,
and proceed on with the main party and all the baggage to the Canoes,
raise them out of the water and expose them to the sun to dry by the
time this party Should overtake me. I left Sergt. Ordway, Shannon,
Gibson Collins & Labeech with directions to hunt this day for the
horses without they Should discover that the Inds. had taken them into
the Mountains, and prosue our trail &c. at 1/2 past 10 A M I set out
and proceeded on through an open rich vally crossing four large Creeks
with extensive low and mirey bottoms, and a Small river keeping the
Course I had set out on S. 56° E after crossing the river I kept up on
the N E. side, Sometimes following an old road which frequently
disappeared, at the distance of 16 miles we arived at a Boiling Spring
Situated about 100 paces from a large Easterly fork of the Small river
in a leavel open vally plain and nearly opposit & E. of the 3 forks of
this little river which heads in the Snowey Mountains to the S E. & S W
of the Springs. this Spring contains a very considerable quantity of
water, and actually blubbers with heat for 20 paces below where it
rises. it has every appearance of boiling, too hot for a man to endure
his hand in it 3 seconds. I directt Sergt. Pryor and John Shields to
put each a peice of meat in the water of different Sises. the one about
the Size of my 3 fingers Cooked dun in 25 minits the other much thicker
was 32 minits before it became Sufficiently dun. this water boils up
through some loose hard gritty Stone. a little sulferish after takeing
dininer and letting our horses graize 1 hour and a half we proceeded on
Crossed this easterly branch and up on the N. Side of this middle fork
9 miles crossed it near the head of an Easterly branch and passed
through a gap of a mountain on the Easterly Side of which we encamped
near some butifull which fall into Willards Creek. I directed that the
rambling horses should be hobbled, and the Sentinal to examine the
horses after the moon rose. Emence beaver sign.
This extensive vally Surround with covered with snow is extreemly
fertile covered esculent plants &c and the Creeks which pass through it
contains emence numbers of beaver &c. I now take my leave of this
butifull extensive vally which I call the hot spring Vally, and behold
one less extensive and much more rugid on Willards Creek for near 12
miles in length. remarkable Cold night
[Clark, July 8, 1806]
Tuesday July 8th 1806
Our horses being Scattered we were detained unill 8 A. M before we Set
out. we proceeded on down Willards Creek on the S.W. Side about 11
miles near which the Creek passes through the mountain we then Steared
S. 20° E. to the West branch of Jeffersons river in Snake Indian cove
about 7 miles and halded two hours to let the horses graize. after
dinner we proceeded on down the forke which is here but Small 9 Miles
to our encampment of 17 Augt. at which place we Sunk our Canoes &
buried Some articles, as before mentioned the most of the Party with me
being Chewers of Tobacco become So impatient to be chewing it that they
Scercely gave themselves time to take their Saddles off their horses
before they were off to the deposit. I found every article Safe, except
a little damp. I gave to each man who used tobacco about two feet off a
part of a role took one third of the ballance myself and put up 2/3 in
a box to Send down with the most of the articles which had been left at
this place, by the Canoes to Capt. Lewis. as it was late nothing Could
be done with the Canoes this evening. I examined them and found then
all Safe except one of the largest which had a large hole in one Side &
Split in bow. The Country through which we passed to day was
diversified high dry and uneaven Stoney open plains and low bottoms
very boggy with high mountains on the tops and North sides of which
there was Snow, great quantities of the Species of hysoop & shrubs
common to the Missouri plains are Scattered in those Vallys and hill
Sides. The road which we have traveled from travellers rest Creek to
this place an excellent road. and with only a few trees being cut out
of the way would be an excellent waggon road one Mountain of about 4
miles over excepted which would require a little digging The distance
is 164 Miles-. Shields killed an antelope
[Clark, July 9, 1806]
Wednesday 9th July 1806
rose early had the horses brought up. after which I had the Canoes
raised washed, brough down and drawn up on Shore to dry and repard. Set
Several men to work digging for the Tobacco Capt. Lewis informed me he
had buried in the place the lodge Stood when we lay here last Summer,
they Serched diligently without finding anything. at 10 A M Sergt.
Ordway and party arrived with the horses we had lost. he reported that
he found those horses near the head of the Creek on which we encamped,
makeing off as fast as they could and much Scattered. nothing material
took place with his party in their absence. I had the Canoes repared
men & lodes appotioned ready to embark tomorrow morning. I also formd.
the party to accomp me to the river Rejhone from applicants and
apportioned what little baggage I intended to carry as also the Spear
horses. this day was windy and Cold. The Squar brought me a Plant the
root of which the nativs eat. this root most resembles a Carrot in form
and Size and Something of its colour, being of a pailer yellow than
that of our Carrot, the Stem and leaf is much like the Common Carrot,
and the taste not unlike. it is a native of moist land.--John Sheilds
and Collins each killed a Deer this morning. the wind dried our Canoes
very much they will be Sufficiently dry by tomorrow morning to Set out
in them down the river.
[Clark, July 10, 1806]
Thursday July 10th 1806
last night was very cold and this morning everything was white with
frost and the grass Stiff frozend. I had Some water exposed in a bason
in which the ice was 3/4 of an inch thick this morning. I had all the
Canoes put into the water and every article which was intended to be
Sent down put on board, and the horses collected and packed with what
fiew articles I intend takeing with me to the River Rochejhone, and
after brackfast we all Set out at the Same time & proceeded on Down
Jeffersons river on the East Side through Sarviss Vally and rattle
snake mountain and into that butifull and extensive Vally open and
fertile which we Call the beaver head Vally which is the Indian name in
their language Har na Hap pap Chah. from the No. of those animals in it
& a pt. of land resembling the head of one this Vally extends from the
rattle Snake Mountain down Jeffersons river as low as fraziers Creek
above the big horn mountain and is from 12 to 30 miles in width and
____ miles on a direct line in length and Jeffersons river in passing
through this Vally reives McNeals Creek, Track Creek, Phalanthrophy
river, Wisdom river, Fields river and Fraziers Creek each throw in a
considerable quantity of water and have innoumerable beaver and otter
on them; the bushes in their low bottoms are the resort for great
numbers of Deer, and in the higher parts of the Vally we see Antelopes
scattered feeding. I saw also on the Sides of the rock in rattle snake
mountain 15 big horn animals, those animals feed on the grass which
grow on the Sides of the mountn. and in the narrow bottoms on the Water
courses near the Steep Sides of the mountains on which they can make
their escape from the pursute of wolves Bear &c. at Meridian I halted
to let the horses Graze having Come 15 Miles I ordered the to land.
Sergt. Ordway informed me that the party with him had Come on very
well, and he thought the Canoes could go as farst as the horses &c. as
the river now become wider and not So Sholl, I deturmined to put all
the baggage &c. which I intend takeing with me to the river Rochejhone
in the canoes and proceed on down with them myself to the 3 forks or
Madisons & galletens rivers. leaveing the horses to be taken down by
Sergt. Pryor and 6 of the men of the party to accompany me to the river
Rochejhone and directed Sergt. Pryor to proceed on moderately and if
possible encamp with us every night. after dinner had my baggage put on
board and Set out, and proceeded on tolerable well to the head of the
3000 Mile Island on which we had encamped on the 11th of Augt last. the
Canoes passed Six of my encampments assending, opposit this island I
encamped on the East side. the Musquetors were troublesom all day and
untill one hour after Sunset when it became Cool and they disappeared.
in passing down in the Course of this day we saw great numbers of
beaver lying on the Shores in the Sun. wild young Gees and ducks are
common in this river. we killed two young gees this evening. I saw
several large rattle Snakes in passing the rattle Snake Mountain they
were fierce.
[Clark, July 11, 1806]
Friday 11th July 1806
Sent on 4 of the best hunters in 2 Canoes to proceed on a fiew miles a
head and hunt untill I came up with them, after an early brackfast I
proceeded on down a very crooked Chanel, at 8 a. m I overtook one Canoe
with a Deer which Collins had killed, at meridian passed Sergt. Pryors
Camp near a high point of land on the left Side which the Shoshones
call the beavers head. the wind rose and blew with great violence from
the S W imediately off Some high mountains Covered with Snow. the
violence of this wind retarded our progress very much and the river
being emencly Crooked we had it imediately in our face nearly every
bend. at 6 P M I passed Phalanthrophy river which I proceved was very
low. the wind Shifted about to the N. E. and bley very hard tho much
wormer than the forepart of the day. at 7 P M I arrived at the
Enterance of Wisdom River and Encampd. in the Spot we had encamped the
6th of August last. here we found a Bayonet which had been left & the
Canoe quite safe. I directed that all the nails be taken out of this
Canoe and paddles to be made of her Sides & here I came up with Gibson
& Colter whome I had Sent on a head for the purpose of hunting this
morning, they had killed a fat Buck and 5 young gees nearly grown.
Wisdom river is very high and falling. I have Seen great Nos. of Beaver
on the banks and in the water as I passed down to day, also some Deer
and great numbers young gees, Sand hill cranes &c. &c. Sgt. Pryor left
a deer on the shore
[Clark, July 12, 1806]
Saturday 12th,July 1806
Sergt. Pryor did not join me last night he has proceeded on down. the
beaver was flacking in the river about us all the last night. this
Morning I was detained untill 7 A M makeing Paddles and drawing the
nails of the Canoe to be left at this place and the one we had before
left here. after completing the paddles &c and takeing Some Brackfast I
set out the Current I find much Stronger below the forks than above and
the river tolerably streight as low as panther Creek when it became
much more Crooked the Wind rose and blew hard off the Snowey mountains
to the N. W. and renderd it very difficuelt to keep the canoes from
running against the Shore at 2 P.M. the Canoe in which I was in was
driven by a Suden puff of wind under a log which projected over the
water from the bank, and the man in the Stern Howard was Caught in
between the Canoe and the log and a little hurt after disingaging our
selves from this log the canoe was driven imediately under a drift
which projected over and a little abov the Water, here the Canoe was
very near turning over we with much exertion after takeing out Some of
the baggage hauled her out, and proceeded on without receving any
damage. the men in the other Canoes Seeing our Situation landed and
come with as much Speed as possible through the briers and thick brush
to our assistance. but from the thickness of the brush did not get up
to our assistance untill we had got Clear. at 3 P M we halted at the
enterance of Fields Creek and dined here Willard and Collins over took
us with two deer which they had killd. this morning and by takeing a
different Side of an Island from which we Came, we had passed them.
after dinner I proceeded on and Encamped a little below our encampmt.
of the 31st of July last. the Musquetoes very troublesome this evening
Some old buffalow Signs. I killed 4 young gees and Collins killed 2
bever this evening.
[Clark, July 13, 1806]
Sunday 13th July 1806
Set out early this morning and proceded on very well to the enterance
of Madicines river at our old Encampment of the 27th July last at 12
where I found Sergt. Pryor and party with the horses, they had arived
at this place one hour before us. his party had killed 6 deer & a white
bear I had all the horses driven across Madicine & gallitines rivers
and halted to dine and let the horses feed imediately below the
enterance of Gallitine. had all the baggage of the land party taken out
of the Canoes and after dinner the 6 Canoes and the party of 10 men
under the direction of Sergt. Ordway Set out. previous to their
departur I gave instructions how they were to proceed &c. I also wrote
to Capt Lewis by Sergt. Ordway-. my party now Consists of the following
persons Viz: Serjeant N. Pryor, Jo. Shields, G. Shannon William
Bratton, Labiech, Windsor, H. Hall, Gibson, Interpreter Shabono his
wife & Child and my man york; with 49 horses and a colt. the horses
feet are very sore and Several of them can Scercely proceed on. at 5.
P. M I Set out from the head of Missouri at the 3 forks, and proceeded
on nearly East 4 miles and Encamped on the bank of Gallitines River
which is a butifull navigable Stream. Saw a large Gange of Elk in the
plains and Deer in the river bottoms. I also observe beaver and Several
otter in galletines river as I passed along. Gibson killed an otter the
fur of which was much longer and whiter than any which I had Seen.
Willard killed 2 deer this morning. all the meat I had put into the
Canoes except a Sufficiency for Supper. The Country in the forks
between Gallitins & Madisens rivers is a butifull leavel plain Covered
with low grass.--on the lower or N E. Side of Gallitins river the
Country rises gradually to the foot of a mountain which runs nearly
parrelal. those plains are indefferant or the Soil of which is not very
rich they are Stoney & Contain Several Stratas of white rock. the
Current of the river is rapid and near the mouth contains Several
islands, it is navigable for Canoes. I saw Several Antelope Common
Deer, wolves, beaver, Otter, Eagles, hawks, Crows, wild gees both old
and young, does &c. &c. I observe Several leading roads which appear to
pass to a gap of the mountain in a E. N E. direction about 18 or 20
miles distant. The indian woman who has been of great Service to me as
a pilot through this Country recommends a gap in the mountain more
South which I shall cross.-.
[Clark, July 14, 1806]
Monday 14th July 1806
Sent Sheilds a head to kill a deer for our brackfast and at an early
hour Set out with the party Crossed Gallitines river which makes a
Considerable bend to the N. E. and proceeded on nearly S. 78° E through
an open Leavel plain at 6 miles I Struck the river and crossed a part
of it and attemptd to proceed on through the river bottoms which was
Several Miles wide at this place, I crossed Several chanels of the
river running through the bottom in defferent directions. I proceeded
on about two miles crossing those defferent chanels all of which was
damed with beaver in Such a manner as to render the passage
impracticable and after Swamped as I may Say in this bottom of beaver I
was compelled to turn Short about to the right and after Some
difficuelty made my way good to an open low but firm plain which was an
Island and extended nearly the Course I wished to proceed. here the
Squar informed me that there was a large road passing through the upper
part of this low plain from Madicins river through the gap which I was
Stearing my Course to. I proceeded up this plain 4 miles and Crossed
the main Chanel of the river, having passed through a Skirt of cotton
timber to an open low plain on the N E. Side of the river and nooned
it. the river is divided and on all the small Streams inoumerable
quantities of beaver dams, tho the river is yet navagable for Canoes. I
overtook Shields Soon after I set out; he had killed a large fat Buck.
I saw Elk deer & Antelopes, and great deel of old Signs of buffalow.
their roads is in every direction. The Indian woman informs me that a
fiew years ago Buffalow was very plenty in those plains & Vallies quit
as high as the head of Jeffersons river, but flew of them ever come
into those Vallys of late years owing to the Shoshones who are fearfull
of passing into the plains West of the mountains and Subsist on what
game they Can Catch in the Mountains principally and the fish which
they take in the E. fork of Lewis's river. Small parties of the
Shoshones do pass over to the plains for a few days at a time and kill
buffalow for their Skins and dried meat, and return imediately into the
Mountains. after Dinner we proceeded on a little to the South of East
through an open leavel plain to the three forks of the E branch of
Gallitines River at about 12 miles, crossed the most Southerly of those
forks and Struck an old buffalow road which I kept Continuing nearly
the Same Course up the middle fork Crossed it and Camped on a small
branch of the middle fork on the N E. Side at the commencement of the
gap of the mountain--the road leading up this branch, Several other
roads all old Come in from the right & left. emence quantities of
beaver on this Fork quit down, and their dams very much impeed the
navigation of it from the 3 forks down, tho I beleive it practicable
for Small Canoes by unloading at a fiew of the worst of those dams.
Deer are plenty. Shannon Shields and Sergt. Pryor each killed one which
were very fat much more So than they are Commonly at this Season of the
year. The Main fork of Galletins River turn South and enter them
mountains which are yet Covered with Snow. Madisens river makes a Great
bend to the East and enters the Same mountain. a leavel plain between
the two rivers below the mountain.
[Clark, July 15, 1806]
Tuesday 15th July 1806
we collected our horses and after an early brackft at 8 A M Set out and
proceeded up the branch to the head thence over a low gap in the
mountain thence across the heads of the N E. branch of the fork of
Gallitins river which we Camped near last night passing over a low
dividing ridge to the head of a water Course which runs into the
Rochejhone, prosueing an old buffalow road which enlargenes by one
which joins it from the most Easterly branch of the East fork of
Galetins R. proceeding down the branch a little to the N. of East
keeping on the North Side of the branch to the River rochejhone at
which place I arrived at 2 P M. The Distance from the three forks of
the Easterly fork of Galletines river (from whence it may be navigated
down with Small Canoes) to the river Rochejhone is 18 miles on an
excellent high dry firm road with very incoiderable hills. from this
river to the nearest part of the main fork of Gallitine is 29 miles
mostly through a leavel plain. from the head of the Missouri at the 3
forks 48 miles through a leavel plain the most of the way as may be
seen by the remarks in the evening after the usial delay of 3 hours to
give the horses time to feed and rest and allowing our Selves time also
to Cook and eate Dinner, I proceeded on down the river on an old
buffalow road at the distance of 9 miles below the mountains Shield
River discharges itself into the Rochejhone on it's N W. side above a
high rocky Clift, this river is 35 yards wide deep and affords a great
quantity of water it heads in those Snowey Mountains to the N W with
Howards Creek, it contains some Timber Such as Cotton & willow in it's
bottoms, and Great numbers of beaver the river also abounds in those
animals as far as I have Seen.
passed the creek and over a high rocky hill and encamped in the upper
part of a large bottom. The horses feet are very sore many of them Can
Scercely proceed on over the Stone and gravel in every other respect
they are Sound and in good Sperits. I saw two black bear on the side of
the mountains this morning. Several gangs of Elk from 100 to 200 in a
gangue on the river, great numbers of Antelopes. one Elk only killed to
day.
The Roche passes out of a high rugid mountain covered with Snow. the
bottoms are narrow within the mountains but widen from 1/2 a m. to 2
ms. in the Vally below, those bottoms are Subject to over flow, they
contain Some tall Cotton wood, and willow rose bushes & rushes Honey
suckle &c. a Second bottom on the N E. Side which rises to about 20
feet higher the first & is 1 m. wide this bottom is coars gravel pebils
& Sand with Some earth on which the grass grow very Short and at this
time is quit dry this 2d bottom over flows in high floods on the
opposit Side of the river the plain is much higher and extendes quite
to the foot of the mountain. The mountains to the S. S. E on the East
side of the river is rocky rugid and on them are great quantities of
Snow. a bold Snow mountain which bears East & is imediately at & N W of
the 3 forks of the East fork of Gallitins river may be Seen, there is
also a high rugid Mtn. on which is Snow bearing North 15 or 20 miles.
but fiew flowers to be Seen in those plains. low grass in the high
plains, and the Common corse grass, rushes and a species of rye is the
growth of the low bottoms. the mountains have Some scattering pine on
them, and on the Spurs and hill Sides there is some scrubby pine. I can
See no timber Sufficient large for a Canoe which will Carry more than 3
men and Such a one would be too Small to answer my purpose
[Clark, July 16, 1806]
Wednesday 16th July 1806
I gave Labeech promission to proceed on early this morning a head and
kill a fat Elk or Buffalow. our horses haveing rambled to a long
distance down the river detained us much later than Common. we did not
Set out untill 9 A M. we had not proceeded on far before I saw a
buffalow & Sent Shannon to kill it this buffalow provd. to be a very
fat Bull I had most of the flesh brought on an a part of the Skin to
make mockersons for Some of our lame horses. proceeded on down the
river without finding any trees Sufficently large for a Canoe about 10
miles and halted having passed over to an Island on which there was
good food for our horses to let them graze & Dine. I have not Seen
Labeech as yet. Saw a large gangue of about 200 Elk and nearly as many
Antilope also two white or Grey Bear in the plains, one of them I
Chased on horse back about 2 miles to the rugid part of the plain where
I was compelled to give up the Chase two of the horses was So lame
owing to their feet being worn quit Smooth and to the quick, the hind
feet was much the worst I had Mockersons made of green Buffalow Skin
and put on their feet which Seams to releve them very much in passing
over the Stoney plains. after dinner I proceeded on Soon after I had
set Out Labeech joined us with part of a fat Elk which he had killed. I
passed over a Stoney point at which place the river runs Close to the
high land on the N W. side crossed a small Creek and Encamped on the
river a little below its Enterance. Saw emence heards of Elk feeding on
the opposit side of the river. I saw a great number of young gees in
the river. one of the men brought me a fish of a species I am
unacquainted; it was 8 inches long formed like a trout. it's mouth was
placed like that of the Sturgeon a red streak passed down each Side
from the gills to the tail. The rocks which the high lands are faced
with and which may also be seen in perpendicular Straters in the high
plains, is a dark freestone. the greater part of this rock is of an
excellent grit for Grindstones hard and sharp. observe the Silkgrass
Sunflower & Wild indigo all in blume. but fiew other flowers are to be
Seen in those plains. The river and Creek bottoms abound in Cotton wood
trees, tho none of them Sufficiently large for Canoes. and the current
of the Rochejhone is too rapid to depend on Skinn canoes. no other
alternetive for me but to proceed on down untill I can find a tree
Sufficently large &c. to make a Canoe.-
[Clark, July 17, 1806]
Thursday 17th July 1806
The rain of last night wet us all. I had the horses all Collected early
and Set out, proceeded ove the point of a ridge and through an open low
bottom crossed a large Creek which heads in a high Snow toped Mountain
to the N W. imediately opposit to the enterance of the Creek one
Something larger falls in from the high Snow mountains to the S W. &
South those Creeks I call Rivers across they contain Some timber in
their Vallys at the distance of ____ Miles by water we arive at the
enterance of two Small rivers or large Creeks which fall in nearly
opposit to each other the one on the N E side is 30 yards wide. I call
it Otter River the other Beaver R below the enterance of this Creek I
halted as usial to let the Horses graze &c. I saw a Single Pelicon
which is the first which I have Seen on this river. after Dinner I
proceeded on Down the Rochejhone passing over a low ridge through a
Small bottom and on the Side of a Stoney hill for 2 miles and through a
Small bottom and again on the Side of a high hill for 11/2 M. to a
bottom in which we Incamped opposit a Small Island. The high lands
approach the river on either side much nearer than it does above and
their Sides are partially covered with low pine & Cedar, none of which
are Sufficently large for Canoes, nor have I Seen a Cotton tree in the
low bottoms Sufficently large for that purpose. Buffalow is getting
much more plenty than they were above. not so many Elk & more deer
Shannon killed one deer. I Saw in one of those Small bottoms which I
passed this evening an Indian fort which appears to have been built
last Summer. this fort was built of logs and bark. the logs was put up
very Closely capping on each other about 5 feet and Closely chinked.
around which bark was Set up on end so as to Cover the Logs. the
enterance was also guarded by a work on each Side of it and faceing the
river. this work is about 50 feet Diameter & nearly round. the Squaw
informs me that when the war parties find themselves pursued they make
those forts to defend themselves in from the pursuers whose Superior
numbers might other wise over power them and cut them off without
receiveing much injurey on hors back &c.
[Clark, July 18, 1806]
Friday 18th July 1806
as we were about Setting out this morning two Buffalow Bulls came near
our Camp Several of the men Shot at one of them. their being near the
river plunged in and Swam across to the opposit Side and there died.
Shabono was thrown from his horse to day in pursute of a Buffaloe, the
hose unfortunately Steping into a Braroe hole fell and threw him over
his head. he is a good deel brused on his hip Sholder & face. after
brackfast I proceeded on as usial, passd. over points of ridges So as
to cutoff bends of the river crossed a Small Muddy brook on which I
found great quantities of the Purple, yellow & black currents ripe.
they were of an excellent flavour. I think the purple Superior to any I
have ever tasted. The river here is about 200 yards wide rapid as usial
and the water gliding over corse gravel and round Stones of various
sizes of an excellent grite for whetestones. the bottoms of the river
are narrow. the hills are not exceeding 200 feet in hight the sides of
them are generally rocky and composed of rocks of the same texture of a
dark Colour of Grit well Calculated for grindstones &c. The high
bottoms is composed of gravel and Stone like those in the Chanel of the
river, with a mixture of earth of a dark brown colour The Country back
from the river on each Side is generally open wavering plains. Some
pine is to be Seen in every direction in those plains on the Sides of
hills &c. at 11 A.M. I observed a Smoke rise to the S. S. E in the
plains towards the termonation of the rocky mountains in that direction
(which is Covered with Snow) this Smoke must be raisd. by the Crow
Indians in that direction as a Signal for us, or other bands. I think
it most probable that they have discovered our trail and takeing us to
be Shoshone &c. in Serch of them the Crow Indians to trade as is their
Custom, have made this Smoke to Shew where they are-or otherwise
takeing us to be their Enemy made this Signal for other bands to be on
their guard. I halted in a bottom of fine grass to let the horses graze.
Shields killed a fat Buck on which we all Dined. after dinner and a
delay of 3 hours to allow the horses time to feed, we Set out at 4 P.M.
I set out and proceeded down the river through a butifull bottom,
passing a Indian fort on the head of a Small island near the Lard Shore
and Encamped on a Small Island Seperated from the Lard Shore by a very
narrow Chanel. Shields killed a Buffalow this evening which Caused me
to halt sooner than Common to Save Some of the flesh which was So rank
and Strong that we took but very little. Gibson in attempting to mount
his horse after Shooting a deer this evening fell and on a Snag and
sent it nearly two inches into the Muskeler part of his thy. he informs
me this Snag was about 1 inch in diamuter burnt at the end. this is a
very bad wound and pains him exceedingly. I dressed the wound.
[Clark, July 19, 1806]
Saturday 19th July 1806.
I rose early and dressed Gibsons wound. he Slept but very little last
night and complains of great pain in his Knee and hip as well as his
thy. there being no timber on this part of the Rochjhone sufficintly
large for a Canoe and time is pracious as it is our wish to get to the
U States this Season, conclude to take Gibson in a litter if he is not
able to ride on down the river untill I can find a tree Sufficently
large for my purpose. I had the Strongest and jentlesst Horse Saddled
and placed Skins & blankets in Such a manner that when he was put on
the horse he felt himself in as easy a position as when lying. this was
a fortunate circunstance as he Could go much more at his ease than in a
litter. passed Rose bud river on Sd Side I proceeded on about 9 miles,
and halted to let the horses graze and let Gibson rest. his leg become
So numed from remaining in one position, as to render extreemly
painfull to him. I derected Shields to keep through the thick timber
and examine for a tree sufficently large & Sound to make a Canoe, and
also hunt for Some Wild Ginger for a Poltice for Gibsons wound. he
joined me at dinner with 2 fat Bucks but found neither tree or Ginger.
he informed me that 2 white bear Chased him on horsback, each of which
he Shot from his horse &c. Currents are ripe and abundant, i, e, the
Yellow, black & purple spcies. we passed over two high points of Land
from which I had a View of the rocky Mounts. to the W. & S. S. E. all
Covered with Snow. I also Saw a low mountain in an Easterly direction.
the high lands is partially Covered with pine and form purpendcular
Clifts on either side. afer dinner I proceeded on the high lands become
lower on either Side and those of the Stard Side form Bluffs of a
darkish yellow earth; the bottom widens to Several Ms. on the Stard
Side. the timber which cotton wood principally Scattered on the borders
of the river is larger than above. I have Seen Some trees which would
make very Small Canoes. Gibsons thy became So painfull that he could
not Set on the horse after rideing about 2 hours and a half I directed
Sergt Pryor and one man to continue with him under the Shade of a tree
for an hour and then proceed on to the place I Should encamp which
would be in the first good timber for canoes for the below. It may be
proper to observe that the emence Sworms of Grass hoppers have
distroyed every Sprig of Grass for maney miles on this Side of the
river, and appear to be progressing upwards. about 4 Miles below the
place I left Sergt. Pryor with Gibson found some large timber near
which the grass was tolerably good I Encamped under a thick grove of
those trees which was not Sufficiently large for my purpose, tho two of
them would mak small Canoes. I took Shields and proceeded on through a
large timbered bottom imediately below in Serch of better trees for
Canoes, found Several about the Same Size with those at my Camp. at
dark I returned to Camp
Sergt. Pryor had arived with gibson. after my arival at this place the
hunters killed Seven Elk, four Deer, and I wounded a Buffalow very
badly near the Camp imediately after I arived. in the forepart of the
day the hunters killed two deer an Antelope & Shot two Bear. Shabono
informed me that he Saw an Indian on the high lands on the opposit Side
of the river, in the time I was absent in the woods. I saw a Smoke in
the Same direction with that which I had Seen on the 7th inst. it
appeared to be in the Mountains.
[Clark, July 20, 1806]
Sunday 20th July 1806
I directed Sergt. Pryor and Shields each of them good judges of timber
to proceed on down the river Six or 8 miles and examine the bottoms if
any larger trees than those near which we are encamped can be found and
return before twelve oClock. they Set out at daylight. I also Sent
Labech Shabono & hall to Skin & some of the flesh of the Elk Labeech
had killed last evening they returned with one Skin the wolves haveing
eaten the most of the other four Elk. I also Sent two men in Serch of
wood Soutable for ax handles. they found some choke cherry which is the
best wood which Can be precured in this Country. Saw a Bear on an
Island opposit and Several Elk. Sergt. Pryor and Shields returned at
half past 11 A M. and informed me that they had proceeded down the
timbered bottoms of the river for about 12 miles without finding a tree
better than those near my Camp. I deturmined to have two Canoes made
out of the largest of those trees and lash them together which will
Cause them to be Study and fully Sufficient to take my Small party &
Self with what little baggage we have down this river. had handles put
in the 3 Axes and after Sharpening them with a file fell the two trees
which I intended for the two Canoes. those trees appeared tolerably
Sound and will make Canoes of 28 feet in length and about 16 or 18
inches deep and from 16 to 24 inches wide. the men with the three axes
Set in and worked untill dark. Sergt. Pryor dressed Some Skins to make
him Clothes. Gibsons wound looks very well. I dressed it. The horses
being fatigued and their feet very Sore, I Shall let them rest a fiew
days. dureing which time the party intended for to take them by land to
the Mandans will dress their Skins and make themselves Clothes to bare,
as they are nearly naked. Shields killed a Deer & Buffalow & Shannon a
faun and a Buffalow & York an Elk one of the buffalow was good meat. I
had the best of him brought in and cut thin and Spread out to dry.
[Clark, July 21, 1806]
Monday 21st July 1806
This morning I was informed that Half of our horses were absent. Sent
out Shannon Bratten, and Shabono to hunt them. Shabono went up the
river Shanon down and Bratten in the bottom near Camp, Shabono and
Bratten returned at 10 A M and informed me that they Saw no Signs of
the horses. Shannon proceeded on down the river about 14 miles and did
not return untill late in the evening, he was equally unsuckcessfull.
Shannon informed me that he Saw a remarkable large Lodge about 12 miles
below, covered with bushes and the top Deckorated with Skins &c and had
the appearance of haveing been built about 2 years. I Sent out two men
on hors back to kill a fat Cow which they did and returned in 3 hours
the men work very diligiently on the Canoes one of them nearly finished
ready to put in the water. Gibsons wound is beginning to heal. I am in
great hope that it will get well in time for him to accompany Sgt.
Pryor with the horses to the Mandans. This evening late a very black
Cloud from the S. E. accompanied with Thunder and lightning with hard
winds which Shifted about and was worm and disagreeable. I am
apprehensive that the indians have Stolen our horses, and probably
those who had made the Smoke a fiew days passed towards the S. W. I
deturmined to have the ballance of the horses guarded and for that
purpose sent out 3 men, on their approach near the horses were So
alarmed that they ran away and entered the woods and the men returned-
a Great number of Geese which raise their young on this river passed
down frequently Since my arival at this place. we appear to be in the
beginning of the buffalow Country. the plains are butifull and leavel
but the Soil is but thin Stoney and in maney parts of the plains &
bottoms there are great quantity of prickly pears. Saw Several herds of
buffalow Since I arived at this Camp also antilops, wolves, pigions,
Dovs, Hawks, ravins, Crows, larks, Sparrows, Eagles & bank martins &c.
&c. The wolves which are the constant attendants of the Buffalow are in
great numbers on the Scerts of those large gangues which are to be Seen
in every direction in those praries
[Clark, July 22, 1806]
Tuesday 22nd of July 1806.
The wind continued to blow very hard from the N. E. and a little before
day light was moderately Cool. I Sent Sergt. Pryor and Shabono in Serch
of the horses with directions to proceed up the river as far as the 1st
narrows and examine particularly for their tracks, they returned at 3 P
M and informed me that they had proceeded up the distance I derected
them to go and could See neither horses nor tracks; the Plains
imediately out from Camp is So dry and hard that the track of a horse
Cannot be Seen without close examination. I therefore derected Sergt.
Pryor Shannon Shabono & Bratten to incircle the Camp at Some distance
around and find the tracks of the horses and prosue them, they Serched
for tracks all the evening without finding which Course the horses had
taken, the plains being so remarkably hard and dry as to render it
impossible to See a track of a horse passing through the hard parts of
them. begin to Suspect that they are taken by the Indians and taken
over the hard plains to prevent our following them. my Suspicions is
grounded on the improbibility of the horses leaveing the grass and
rushes of the river bottoms of which they are very fond, and takeing
imediately out into the open dry plains where the grass is but Short
and dry. if they had Continued in the bottoms either up or down, their
tracks Could be followed very well. I directed Labeech who understands
traking very well to Set out early in the morning and find what rout
the horses had taken if possible
[Clark, July 23, 1806]
Wednesday 23rd July 1806.
last night the wolves or dogs came into our Camp and eat the most of
our dryed meat which was on a scaffold Labeech went out early agreeable
to my directions of last evening. Sergt. Pryor and Windser also went
out. Sgt. pryor found an Indian Mockerson and a Small piece of a roab,
the mockerson worn out on the bottom & yet wet, and have every
appearance of haveing been worn but a fiew hours before. those Indian
Signs is Conclusive with me that they have taken the 24 horses which we
lost on the night of the 10th instant, and that those who were about
last night were in Serch of the ballance of our horses which they could
not find as they had fortunately got into a Small Prarie Serounded with
thick timber in the bottom. Labeech returned haveing taken a great
Circle and informed me that he Saw the tracks of the horses makeing off
into the open plains and were by the tracks going very fast. The
Indians who took the horses bent their course reather down the river.
the men finished both Canoes by 12 oClock to day, and I sent them to
make Oars & get poles after which I sent Shields and Labeech to kill a
fat Buffalow out of a gangue which has been in a fiew miles of us all
day. I gave Sergt Pryor his instructions and a letter to Mr. Haney and
directed that he G. Shannon & Windser take the remaining horses to the
Mandans, where he is to enquire for Mr. H. Heney if at the
establishments on the Assinniboin river to take 12 or 14 horses and
proceed on to that place and deliver Mr. Heney the letter which is with
a view to engage Mr. Heney to provale on some of the best informed and
most influential Chiefs of the different bands of Sieoux to accompany
us to the Seat of our Government with a view to let them See our
population and resourses &c. which I believe is the Surest garentee of
Savage fidelity to any nation that of a Governmt. possessing the power
of punishing promptly every aggression. Sergt. Pryor is directed to
leave the ballance of the horses with the grand Chief of the Mandans
untill our arival at his village also to keep a journal of the of his
rout courses distances water courss Soil production, & animals to be
particularly noted. Shields and Labeech killed three buffalow two of
them very fat I had as much of the meat Saved as we could Conveniently
Carry. in the evening had the two Canoes put into the water and lashed
together ores and everything fixed ready to Set out early in the
morning, at which time I have derected Sergt. Pryor to Set out with the
horses and proceed on to the enterance of the big horn river at which
place the Canoes will meat him and Set him across the Rochejhone below
the enterance of that river.
[Clark, July 23, 1806]
Speech for Yellowstone Indians
Children. The Great Spirit has given a fair and bright day for us to
meet together in his View that he may inspect us in this all we say and
do.
Children I take you all by the hand as the children of your Great
father the President of the U. States of America who is the great chief
of all the white people towards the riseing sun.
Children This Great Chief who is Benevolent, just, wise & bountifull
has sent me and one other of his chiefs (who is at this time in the
country of the Blackfoot Indians) to all his read children on the
Missourei and its waters quite to the great lake of the West where the
land ends and the sun sets on the face of the great water, to know
their wants and inform him of them on our return.
Children We have been to the great lake of the west and are now on our
return to my country. I have seen all my read children quite to that
great lake and talked with them, and taken them by the hand in the name
of their great father the Great Chief of all the white people.
Children We did not see the ____ or the nations to the North. I have
come across over high mountains and bad road to this river to see the
____ Natn. I have come down the river from the foot of the great snowey
mountain to see you, and have looked in every detection for you,
without seeing you untill now
Children I heard from some of your people ____ nights past by my horses
who complained to me of your people haveing taken 24 of their cummerads.
Children The object of my comeing to see you is not to do you injurey
but to do you good the Great Chief of all the white people who has more
goods at his command than could be piled up in the circle of your camp,
wishing that all his read children should be happy has sent me here to
know your wants that he may supply them.
Children Your great father the Chief of the white people intends to
build a house and fill it with such things as you may want and exchange
with you for your skins & furs at a very low price. & has derected me
to enquire of you, at what place would be most convenient for to build
this house. and what articles you are in want of that he might send
them imediately on my return
Children The people in my country is like the grass in your plains
noumerous they are also rich and bountifull. and love their read
brethren who inhabit the waters of the Missoure
Children I have been out from my country two winters, I am pore necked
and nothing to keep of the rain. when I set out from my country I had a
plenty but have given it all to my read children whome I have seen on
my way to the Great Lake of the West. and have now nothing.
Children Your Great father will be very sorry to here of the ____
stealing the horses of his Chiefs warrors whome he sent out to do good
to his red children on the waters of Missoure.
_____ their ears to his good counsels he will shut them and not let any
goods & guns be brought to the red people. but to those who open their
Ears to his counsels he will send every thing they want into their
country. and build a house where they may come to and be supplyed
whenever they wish.
Children Your Great father the Chief of all the white people has
derected me to inform his red children to be at peace with each other,
and the white people who may come into your country under the
protection of the Flag of your great father which you. those people who
may visit you under the protection of that flag are good people and
will do you no harm
Children Your great father has detected me to tell you not to suffer
your young and thoughtless men to take the horses or property of your
neighbours or the white people, but to trade with them fairly and
honestly, as those of his red children below.
Children The red children of your great father who live near him and
have opened their ears to his counsels are rich and hapy have plenty of
horses cows & Hogs fowls bread &c.&c. live in good houses, and sleep
sound. and all those of his red children who inhabit the waters of the
Missouri who open their ears to what I say and follow the counsels of
their great father the President of the United States, will in a fiew
years be as hapy as those mentioned &c.
Children It is the wish of your Great father the Chief of all the white
people that some 2 of the principal Chiefs of this ____ Nation should
Visit him at his great city and receive from his own mouth. his good
counsels, and from his own hands his abundant gifts, Those of his red
children who visit him do not return with empty hands, he send them to
their nation loaded with presents
Children If any one two or 3 of your great chiefs wishes to visit your
great father and will go with me, he will send you back next Summer
loaded with presents and some goods for the nation. You will then see
with your own eyes and here with your own years what the white people
can do for you. they do not speak with two tongues nor promis what they
can't perform
Children Consult together and give me an answer as soon as possible
your great father is anxious to here from (& see his red children who
wish to visit him) I cannot stay but must proceed on & inform him &c.
[Clark, July 24, 1806]
Thursday 24th July 1806.
had all our baggage put on board of the two Small Canoes which when
lashed together is very Study and I am Convinced will the party I
intend takeing down with me. at 8 A M. we Set out and proceeded on very
well to a riffle about 1 mile above the enterance of Clarks fork or big
horn river at this riffle the Small Canoes took in a good deel of water
which obliged us to land a little above the enterance of this river
which the ____ has called Clarks fork to dry our articles and bail the
Canoes. I also had Buffalow Skin tacked on So as to prevent the waters
flacking in between the Two canoes. This last River is 150 yards wide
at it's Mouth and 100 a Short destance up the water of a light Muddy
Colour and much Colder than that of the Rochejhone a Small Island is
Situated imediately in its mouth, the direction of this river is South
and East of that part of the rocky mountains which Can be seen from its
enterance and which Seem to termonate in that direction.--I thought it
probable that this might be the big horn river, and as the Rochejhone
appeared to make a great bend to the N. I deturmined to Set the horses
across on S. Side. one Chanel of the river passes under a high black
bluff from one mile below the place we built the Canoes to within 3
miles of the enterance of Clarks fork when the bottoms widen on each
side those on the Stard Side from 1/2 to a mile in width. river much
divided by Islands. at 6 ms. below the fork I halted on a large Island
Seperated from the Stard. Shore by a narrow Channel, on this This being
a good place to Cross the river I deturmined to wait for Sergt. pryor
and put him across the river at this place. on this Island I observd a
large lodge the Same which Shannon informed me of a fiew days past.
this Lodge a council lodge, it is of a Conocil form 60 feet diamuter at
its base built of 20 poles each pole 21/2 feet in Secumpheranc and 45
feet Long built in the form of a lodge & covered with bushes. in this
Lodge I observed a Cedar bush Sticking up on the opposit side of the
lodge fronting the dore, on one side was a Buffalow head, and on the
other Several Sticks bent and Stuck in the ground. a Stuffed Buffalow
skin was Suspended from the Center with the back down. the top of those
poles were deckerated with feathers of the Eagle & Calumet Eagle also
Several Curious pieces of wood bent in Circleler form with sticks
across them in form of a Griddle hung on tops of the lodge poles others
in form of a large Sturrip. This Lodge was errected last Summer. It is
Situated in the Center of a butifull Island thinly Covered with Cotton
wood under which the earth which is rich is Covered with wild rye and a
Species of grass resembling the bluegrass, and a mixture of Sweet grass
which the Indian plat and ware around their necks for its cent which is
of a Strong sent like that of the Vinella after Dinner I proceeded on
passed the enterance of a Small Creek and Some wood on the Stard. Side
where I met with Sergt. Pryor, Shannon & Windser with the horses they
had but just arived at that place. Sergt. Pryor informed me that it
would be impossible for the two men with him to drive on the horses
after him without tireing all the good ones in pursute of the more
indifferent to keep them on the Course. that in passing every gangue of
buffalow Several of which he had met with, the loos horses as Soon as
they Saw the Buffalow would imediately pursue them and run around them.
All those that Speed suffient would head the buffalow and those of less
Speed would pursue on as fast as they Could. he at length found that
the only practiacable method would be for one of them to proceed on and
when ever they Saw a gang of Buffalow to Scear them off before the
horses got up. This disposition in the horses is no doubt owing to
their being frequently exercised in chasing different animals by their
former owners the Indians as it is their Custom to chase every Speces
of wild animal with horses, for which purpose they train all their
horses. I had the horses drove across the river and Set Sergt. Pryor
and his party across. H. Hall who cannot Swim expressed a Wiliness to
proceed on with Sergt. Pryor by land, and as another man was necessary
to assist in driveing on the horses, but observed he was necked, I gave
him one of my two remaining Shirts a par of Leather Legins and 3 pr. of
mockersons which equipt him Completely and Sent him on with the party
by land to the Mandans. I proceeded on the river much better than above
the enterance of the Clarks fork deep and the Current regularly rapid
from 2 to 300 yards in width where it is all together, much divided by
islands maney of which are large and well Supplyed with Cotton wood
trees, Some of them large, Saw emenc number of Deer Elk and buffalow on
the banks. Some beaver. I landed on the Lard Side walked out into the
bottom and Killd the fatest Buck I every Saw, Shields killed a deer and
my man York killed a Buffalow Bull, as he informed me for his tongue
and marrow bones. for me to mention or give an estimate of the
differant Spcies of wild animals on this river particularly Buffalow,
Elk Antelopes & Wolves would be increditable. I shall therefore be
silent on the Subject further. So it is we have a great abundance of
the best of meat. we made 70 ms. to day Current rapid and much divided
by islands. Campd a little below Pryers river of 35 yds. on S E.
[Clark, July 25, 1806]
Friday 25th July 1806.
We Set out at Sunrise and proceeded on very well for three hours. Saw a
large gange of Buffalow on the Lard Bank. I concluded to halt and kill
a fat one, dureing which time Some brackfast was ordered to be Cooked.
we killed 2 Buffalow and took as much of their flesh as I wished.
Shields killed two fat deer and after a delay of one hour and a half we
again proceeded on. and had not proceeded far before a heavy shower of
rain pored down upon us, and the wind blew hard from the S W. the wind
increased and the rain continued to fall. I halted on the Stard. Side
had Some logs set up on end close together and Covered with deerskins
to keep off the rain, and a large fire made to dry ourselves.
the rain continued moderately untill near twelve oClock when it Cleared
away and become fair. the wind Contined high untill 2 P M. I proceeded
on after the rain lay a little and at 4 P M arived at a remarkable rock
Situated in an extensive bottom on the Stard. Side of the river & 250
paces from it. this rock I ascended and from it's top had a most
extensive view in every direction. This rock which I shall Call Pompy's
Tower is 200 feet high and 400 paces in secumphrance and only
axcessable on one Side which is from the N. E the other parts of it
being a perpendicular Clift of lightish Coloured gritty rock on the top
there is a tolerable Soil of about 5 or 6 feet thick Covered with Short
grass. The Indians have made 2 piles of Stone on the top of this Tower.
The nativs have ingraved on the face of this rock the figures of
animals &c. near which I marked my name and the day of the month &
year. From the top of this Tower I Could discover two low Mountains &
the Rocky Mts. covered with Snow S W. one of them appeard to be
extencive and bore S. 15° E. about 40 miles. the other I take to be what
the indians Call the Little wolf Mtn. I can only see the Southern
extremity of it which bears N 55° W about 35 Miles. The plains to the
South rise from the distance of about 6 miles the width of the bottom
gradually to the mountains in that derection. a large Creek with an
extencive Vally the direction of which is S. 25° E. meanders boutifully
through this plain. a range of high land Covered with pine appears to
run in a N. & S. direction approaching the river below. on the
Northerly Side of the river high romantic Clifts approach &jut over the
water for Some distance both above and below. a large Brooks which at
this time has Some running muddy water falls in to the Rochejhone
imediately opposit Pompys Tower. back from the river for Some distance
on that Side the hills are ruged & some pine back the plains are open
and extensive. after Satisfying my Self Sufficiently in this
delightfull prospect of the extensive Country around, and the emence
herds of Buffalow, Elk and wolves in which it abounded, I decended and
proceeded on a fiew miles, Saw a gang of about 40 Big horn animals
fired at them and killed 2 on the Sides of the rocks which we did not
get. I directed the Canoes to land, and I walked up through a crevis in
the rocks almost inaxcessiable and killed 2 of those animals one a
large doe and the other a yearlin Buck. I wished very much to kill a
large buck, had there been one with the gang I Should have killd. him.
dureing the time the men were getting the two big horns which I had
killed to the river I employed my Self in getting pieces of the rib of
a fish which was Semented within the face of the rock this rib is about
3 inchs in Secumpherance about the middle it is 3 feet in length tho a
part of the end appears to have been broken off I have Several peces of
this rib the bone is neither decayed nor petrified but very rotten. the
part which I could not get out may be Seen, it is about 6 or 7 Miles
below Pompys Tower in the face of the Lard. Clift about 20 feet above
the water. after getting the big horn on board &c I proceeded on a
Short distance and encamped, an earlyer than I intended on accout of a
heavy cloud which was comeing up from the S. S W. and Some appearance
of a Violent wind. I walked out and killed a Small Buck for his Skin
which the party are in want of for Clothes. about Sunset the wind blew
hard from the W. and Some little rain. I encamped on the Stard. Side
imediately below the enteranc Shannons River about 22 Yards wide, and
at this time discharges a great portion of water which is very Muddy.
emence herds of Buffalow about our as it is now running time with those
animals the bulls keep Such a grunting nois which is very loud and
disagreeable Sound that we are compelled to Scear them away before we
can Sleep. the men fire Several Shot at them and Scear them away.
[Clark, July 26, 1806]
Saturday 26th July 1806.
Set out this morning very early proceeded on Passed Creeks very well.
the Current of the river reagulilarly Swift much divided by Stoney
islands and bars also handsome Islands Covered with Cotton wood the
bottoms extensive on the Stard. Side on the Lard. the Clifts of high
land border the river, those clifts are composed of a whitish rock of
an excellent grit for Grindstones. The Country back on each Side is
wavering lands with Scattering pine. passed 2 Small Brooks on the
Stard. Side and two large ones on the Lard. Side. I shot a Buck from
the Canoe and killed one other on a Small Island. and late in the
evening passed a part of the river which was rock under the Lard.
Clifts fortunately for us we found an excellent Chanel to pass down on
the right of a Stony Island half a mile below this bad place, we arived
at the enterance of Big Horn River on the Stard. Side here I landed
imediately in the point which is a Sof mud mixed with the Sand and
Subject to overflow for Some distance back in between the two rivers. I
walked up the big horn 1/2 a mile and crossed over to the lower Side,
and formed a Camp on a high point. I with one of my men Labeech walked
up the N E Side of Big horn river 7 miles to th enterance of a Creek
which falls in on the N E. Side and is 28 yds wide Some running water
which is very muddy this Creek I call Muddy Creek Some fiew miles above
this Creek the river bent around to the East of South. The Courses as I
assended it as follows Viz:
The bottoms of the Big Horn river are extencive and Covered with timber
principally Cotton. it's Current is regularly Swift, like the Missouri,
it washes away its banks on one Side while it forms extensive Sand bars
on the other. Contains much less portion of large gravel than the R.
Rochjhone and its water more mudy and of a brownish colour, while that
of the rochejhone is of a lightish Colour. the width of those two
rivers are very nearly the Same imediately at their enterances the
river Rochejhone much the deepest and contain most water. I measured
the debth of the bighorn quit across a 1/2 a mile above its junction
and found it from 5 to 7 feet only while that of the River is in the
deepest part 10 or 12 feet water on the lower Side of the bighorn is
extencive boutifull and leavil bottom thinly covered with Cotton wood
under which there grows great quantities of rose bushes. I am informed
by the Menetarres Indians and others that this River takes its rise in
the Rocky mountains with the heads of the river plate and at no great
distance from the river Rochejhone and passes between the Coat Nor or
Black Mountains and the most Easterly range of Rocky Mountains. it is
very long and Contains a great perpotion of timber on which there is a
variety of wild animals, perticularly the big horn which are to be
found in great numbers on this river. Buffalow, Elk, Deer and Antelopes
are plenty and the river is Said to abound in beaver. it is inhabited
by a great number of roveing Indians of the Crow Nation, the paunch
Nation and the Castahanas all of those nations who are Subdivided rove
and prosue the Buffalow of which they make their principal food, their
Skins together with those of the Big horn and Antilope Serve them for
Clothes. This river is Said to be navagable a long way for perogus
without falls and waters a fine rich open Country. it is 200 yds water
& 1/4 of a Me. wd. I returned to Camp a little after dark, haveing
killed one deer, finding my Self fatigued went to bead without my
Supper. Shields killed 2 Bull & 3 Elk.
[Clark, July 27, 1806]
Sunday 27th July 1806
I marked my name with red paint on a Cotton tree near my Camp, and Set
out at an early hour and proceeded on very well the river is much wider
from 4 to 600 yards much divided by Islands and Sand bars, passed a
large dry Creek at 15 miles and halted at the enterance of River 50
yards wide on the Lard Side I call R. Labeech killed 4 Buffalow and
Saved as much of their flesh as we could Carry took brackfast. The
Buffalow and Elk is estonishingly noumerous on the banks of the river
on each Side, particularly the Elk which lay on almost every point in
large gang and are So jintle that we frequently pass within 20 or 30
paces of them without their being the least alarmd. the buffalow are
Generally at a greater distance from the river, and keep a continueing
bellowing in every direction, much more beaver Sign than above the
bighorn. I Saw Several of those animals on the bank to day. the
antilopes are Scerce as also the bighorns and the deer by no means So
plenty as they were near the Rocky mountains. when we pass the Big horn
I take my leave of the view of the tremendious chain of Rocky Mountains
white with Snow in view of which I have been Since the 1st of May last.
about Sunset I Shot a very large fat buck elk from the Canoe near which
I encamped, and was near being bit by a rattle Snake. Shields killed a
Deer & a antilope to day for the Skins which the party is in want of
for Clothes. this river below the big horn river resembles the Missouri
in almost every perticular except that it's islands are more noumerous
& Current more rapid, it's banks are generally low and falling in the
bottoms on the Stard. Side low and exteneive and Covered with timber
near the river such as Cotton wood willow of the different Species rose
bushes and Grapevines together with the red berry or Buffalow Grees
bushes & a species of shoemake with dark brown back of those bottoms
the Country rises gradually to about 100 feet and has Some pine. back
is leavel plains. on the Lard Side the river runs under the clifts and
Bluffs of high which is from 70 to 150 feet in hight and near the river
is Some Scattering low pine back the plains become leavel and
extencive. the Clifts are Composed of a light gritty Stone which is not
very hard. and the round stone which is mixed with the Sand and formes
bars is much Smaller than they appeared from above the bighorn, and may
here be termed Gravel. the Colour of the water is a yellowish white and
less muddy than the Missouri below the mouth of this river.
[Clark, July 28, 1806]
Monday 28th July 1806.
Set out this morning at day light and proceeded on glideing down this
Smooth Stream passing maney Isld. and Several Creeks and brooks at 6
miles passed a Creek or brook of 80 yards wide on the N W. Side
Containing but little water. 6 miles lower passed a small Creek 20 yds
wide on the Stard Side 18 Miles lower passed a large dry creek on the
Lard Side 5 Miles lower passed a river 70 yards wide Containing but
little water on the Lard Side which I call Table Creek from the tops of
Several mounds in the Plains to the N W. resembling a table. four miles
Still lower I arived at the enterance of a river 100 yards wide back of
a Small island on the South Side. it contains Some Cotton wood timber
and has a bold Current, it's water like those of all other Streams
which I have passed in the Canoes are muddy. I take this river to be
the one the Indians Call the Little Big Horn river. The Clifts on the
South Side of the Rochejhone are Generally compd. of a yellowish Gritty
Soft rock, whilest those of the N. is light Coloured and much harder in
the evening I passd. Straters of Coal in the banks on either Side those
on the Stard. Bluffs was about 30 feet above the water and in 2 vanes
from 4 to 8 feet thick, in a horozontal position. the Coal Contained in
the Lard Bluffs is in Several vaines of different hights and thickness.
this Coal or Carbonated wood is like that of the Missouri of an
inferior quallity. passed a large Creek on the Stard. Side between the
1st and 2nd Coal Bluffs passed Several Brooks the chanel of them were
wide and contained but little running water, and encamped on the upper
point of a Small island opposit the enterance of a Creek 25 Yards wide
on the Stard. Side with water.
The Elk on the banks of the river were So abundant that we have not
been out of Sight of them to day. J Shields killed 2 deer & Labeech
killed an Antilope to day. the antilopes and deer are not Abundant.
Beaver plenty
[Clark, July 29, 1806]
Tuesday 29th July 1806
a Slight rain last night with hard thunder and Sharp lightening
accompanied with a violent N. E. wind. I Set out early this morning
wind So hard a head that w made but little way. in the fore part of the
day, I saw great numbers of Buffalow on the banks. the country on
either Side is like that of yesterday. passed three large dry Brooks on
the Stard. Side and four on the Lard Side. great quantities of Coal in
all the hills I passed this day. late in the evening I arived at the
enterance of a River which I take to be the Lazeka or Tongue River it
discharges itself on the Stard. Side and is 150 yards wide of water the
banks are much wider. I intended to encamp on an eligable Spot
imediately below this river, but finding that its water So muddy and
worm as to render it very disagreeable to drink, I crossed the
rochejhone and encamped on an island close to the Lard. Shore. The
water of this river is nearly milk worm very muddy and of a lightish
brown Colour. the Current rapid and the Chanel Contains great numbers
of Snags. near its enterance there is great quantities of wood Such as
is common in the low bottoms of the Rochejhone and Missouri. tho I
believe that the Country back thro which this river passes is an open
one where the water is exposed to the Sun which heats it in its
passage. it is Shallow and throws out great quantities of mud and Some
cors gravel. below this river and on the Stard Side at a fiew Miles
from the Rochejhone the hills are high and ruged Containing Coal in
great quantities. Beaver is very plenty on this part of the Rochejhone.
The river widens I think it may be generally Calculated at from 500"
yards to half a mile in width more Sand and gravelly Bars than above.
cought 3 cat fish. they wer Small and fat. also a Soft Shell turtle.
[Clark, July 30, 1806]
Friday 30th July 1806
Set out early this morning at 12 miles arived at the Commencement of
Shoals the Chanel on the Stard Side near a high bluff. passed a
Succession of those Shoals for 6 miles the lower of which was quit
across the river and appeared to have a decent of about 3 feet. here we
were Compeled to let the Canoes down by hand for fear of their
Strikeing a rock under water and Splitting. This is by far the wost
place which I have Seen on this river from the Rocky mountains to this
place a distance of 694 miles by water. a Perogu or large Canoe would
with Safty pass through the worst of those Shoals, which I call the
Buffalow Sholes from the Circumstance of one of those animals being in
them. the rock which passes the river at those Sholes appear hard and
gritty of a dark brown Colour. the Clifts on the Stard. Side is about
100 feet in hight, on the Lard Side the Country is low and the bottom
rises gradually back. here is the first appearance of Birnt hills which
I have Seen on this river they are at a distance from the river on the
Lard Side. I landed at the enterance of a dry Creek on the Lard side
below the Shoals and took brackfast. Those Dry Rivers, Creeks &c are
like those of the Missouri which take their rise in and are the
Conveyance of the water from those plains. they have the appearanc of
dischargeing emence torrents of water. the late rains which has fallen
in the plains raised Sudenly those Brooks which receive the water of
those plains on which those Suden & heavy Showers of rain must have
fallen, Several of which I have Seen dischargeing those waters, whiles
those below heading or takeing their rise in the Same neighbourhood, as
I passed them appears to have latterly been high. those Broods
discharge emencely of mud also, which Contributes much to the muddiness
of the river. after Brackfast proceeded on the river much narrower than
above from 3 to 400 yards wide only and only a fiew scattering trees to
be Seen on the banks. at 20 miles below the Buffalow Shoals passed a
rapid which is by no means dangerous, it has a number of large rocks in
different parts of the river which Causes high waves a very good Chanel
on the Lard. Side. this rapid I call Bear rapid from the Circumstance
of a bears being on a rock in the Middle of this rapid when I arived at
it. a violent Storm from the N. W. obliged us to land imediately below
this rapid, draw up the Canoes and take Shelter in an old Indian Lodge
above the enterance of a river which is nearly dry it has laterly been
very high and Spread over nearly 1/4 a mile in width. its Chanel is 88
yards and in this there is not more water than could pass through an
inch auger hole. I call it Yorks dry R. after the rain and wind passed
over I proceeded on at 7 Miles passed the enterance of a river the
water of which is 100 yds wide, the bead of this river nearly 1/4 of a
mile this river is Shallow and the water very muddy and of the Colour
of the banks a darkish brown. I observe great quantities of red Stone
thrown out of this river that from the appearance of the hills at a
distance on its lower Side induced me to call this red Stone river. as
the water was disagreeably muddy I could not Camp on that Side below
its mouth. however I landed at its enteranc and Sent out and killed two
fat Cows, and took as much of the flesh as the Canoes would
conveniently Carry and Crossed the river and encamped at the enterance
of a Brook on the Lard. Side under a large Spredding Cotton tree. The
river on which we passed to day is not So wide as above containing but
fiew islands with a Small quantity of Cotton timber. no timber of any
kind to be Seen on the high lands on either Side.
In the evening below the enterance of redstone river I observed great
numbers of Buffalow feeding on the plains, elk on the points and
antilopes. I also Saw Some of the Bighorn animals at a distance on the
hills. Gibson is now able to walk, he walked out this evening and
killed an antilope.
[Clark, July 31, 1806]
Saturday 31st of July 1806
I was much disturbed last night by the noise of the buffalow which were
about me. one gang Swam the river near our Camp which alarmed me a
little for fear of their Crossing our Canoes and Splitting them to
pieces. Set out as usial about Sun rise passed a rapid which I call
wolf rapid from the Circumstance of one of those animals being at the
rapid. here the river approaches the high mountanious Country on the N
W. Side those hills appear to be composed of various Coloured earth and
Coal without much rock I observe Several Conical mounds which appear to
have been burnt. this high Country is washed into Curious formed mounds
& hills and is cut much with reveens. the Country again opens and at
the distance of 23 miles below the Redston or War-har-sah River I
landed in the enterance of a Small river on the Stard. Side 40 yards
wid Shallow and muddy. it has lately been very high. haveing passed the
Enterance of a River on the Lard Side 100 yards wide which has running
water this river I take to be the one the Menetarries Call little wolf
or Sa-a-shah River The high Country is entirely bar of timber. great
quantities of Coal or carbonated wood is to be seen in every Bluff and
in the high hills at a distance on each Side. Saw more Buffalow and Elk
and antilopes this evening than usial. 18 Miles below the last river on
the Stard. Side, I passed one 60 yards wide which had running water.
this Stream I call oak-tar-pon-er or Coal River has very steep banks on
each side of it. passed Several large Brooks Some of them had a little
running water, also Several Islands Some high black looking Bluffs and
encamped on the Stard. Side on a low point. the country like that of
yesterday is open extencive plains. as I was about landing this evening
Saw a white bear and the largest I ever Saw eating a dead buffalow on a
Sand bar. we fired two Shot into him, he Swam to the main Shore and
walked down the bank. I landed and fired 2 more Shot into this
tremendious animal without killing him. night comeing on we Could not
pursue him he bled profusely. Showers all this day
[Clark, August 1, 1806]
Sunday 1st of August 1806.
We Set out early as usial the wind was high and ahead which caused the
water to be a little rough and delayed us very much aded to this we had
Showers of rain repeetedly all day at the intermition of only a fiew
minits between them. My Situation a very disagreeable one. in an open
Canoe wet and without a possibility of keeping my Self dry. the Country
through which we passed is in every respect like that through which I
passed yesterday. The brooks have all Some water in them from the rains
which has fallen. this water is excessively muddy. Several of those
brooks have Some trees on their borders as far as I can See up them. I
observe Some low pine an cedar on the Sides of the rugid hills on the
Stard. Side, and Some ash timber in the high bottoms. the river has
more Sand bars today than usial, and more Soft mud. the current less
rapid. at 2 P.M. I was obliged to land to let the Buffalow Cross over.
not withstanding an island of half a mile in width over which this
gangue of Buffalow had to pass and the Chanel of the river on each Side
nearly 1/4 of a mile in width, this gangue of Buffalow was entirely
across and as thick as they could Swim. the Chanel on the Side of the
island the went into the river was crouded with those animals for 1/2
an hour. the other Side of the island for more than 3/4 of an hour. I
took 4 of the men and killed 4 fat Cows for their fat and what portion
of their flesh the Small Canoes Could Carry that which we had killed a
few days ago being nearly Spoiled from the wet weather. encamped on an
Island Close to the Lard Shore two gangues of Buffalow Crossed a little
below us, as noumerous as the first.
[Clark, August 2, 1806]
Monday August 2nd 1806.
Musquetors very troublesom this morning I Set out early river wide and
very much divided by islands and Sand and Mud bars. the bottoms more
extencive and contain more timber Such as Cotton wood ash willow &c.
The Country on the N W. Side rises to a low plain and extends leavel
for great extent. Some high rugid hills in the forepart of this day on
the S E. Side on which I saw the big horns but could not get near them.
Saw emence numbers of Elk Buffalow and wolves to day. the wolves do
catch the elk. I saw 2 wolves in pursute of doe Elk which I beleive
they Cought they very near her when She entered a Small wood in which I
expect they cought her as She did not pass out of the small wood during
my remaining in view of it which was 15 or 20 minits &c. passed the
enterance of Several brooks on each Side, a Small river 30 yds wide
with Steep banks on the Stard. Side, which I call Ibex River the river
in this days decent is less rapid crouded with Islds and muddy bars and
is generally about one mile in wedth. as the islands and bars
frequently hide the enterance of Brooks &c. from me as I pass'd maney
of them I have not noticed. about 8 A. M this morning a Bear of the
large vicious Species being on a Sand bar raised himself up on his hind
feet and looked at us as we passed down near the middle of the river.
he plunged into the water and Swam towards us, either from a
disposition to attack't or from the Cent of the meat which was in the
Canoes. we Shot him with three balls and he returned to Shore badly
wounded. in the evening I saw a very large Bear take the water above
us. I ordered the boat to land on the opposit Side with a view to
attack't him when he Came within Shot of the Shore. when the bear was
in a fiew paces of the Shore I Shot it in the head. the men hauled her
on Shore and proved to be an old Shee which was so old that her tuskes
had worn Smooth, and Much the largest feemale bear I ever Saw. after
taking off her Skin, I proceeded on and encampd a little above the
enterance of Jo. Feilds Creek on Stard. Side in a high bottom Covered
with low Ash and elm. the Musquetors excessively troublesom.
I have noticed a great preportion Buck Elks on this lower part of the
river, and but very few above. those above which are emencely noumerous
are feemales Generally. Shields killed a Deer this morning dureing the
time we were at Brackfast. we were very near being detained by the
Buffalow today which were Crossing the river we got through the line
between 2 gangues.
[Clark, August 3, 1806]
Tueday August 3rd,1806.
last night the Musquetors was so troublesom that no one of the party
Slept half the night. for my part I did not Sleep one hour. those
tormenting insects found their way into My beare and tormented me the
whole night. they are not less noumerous or troublesom this morn-ing.
at 2 miles passed the enterance of Jo. Field's Creek 35 yds wide
imediately above a high bluff which is falling into the river very
fast. on the Side of this bluff I saw Some of the Mountain Bighorn
animals. I assended the hill below the Bluff. the Musquetors were So
noumerous that I could not Shute with any Certainty and therefore Soon
returned to the Canoes. I had not proceeded far before I saw a large
gangue of ewes & yearlins & fawns or lambs of the bighorn, and at a
distance alone I saw a ram. landed and Sent Labeech to kill the ram,
which he did kill and brought him on board. this ram is not near as
large as maney I have Seen. however he is Sufficiently large for a
Sample I directed Bratten to Skin him with his head horns & feet to the
Skin and Save all the bone. I have now the Skin & bone of a Ram a Ewe &
a yearlin ram of those big Horn animals. at 8. A.M. I arived at the
junction of the Rochejhone with the Missouri, and formed my Camp
imediately in the point between the two river at which place the party
had all encamped the 26th of April-1805. at landing I observed Several
Elk feeding on the young willows in the point among which was a large
Buck Elk which I shot & had his flesh dryed in the Sun for a Store down
the river. had the Canoes unloaded and every article exposed to dry &
Sun. Maney of our things were wet, and nearly all the Store of meat
which had been killed above Spoiled. I ordered it to be thrown into the
river. Several Skins are also Spoiled which is a loss, as they are our
principal dependance for Clothes to last us to our homes &c.
The distance from the Rocky Mountains at which place I struck the River
Rochejhone to its enterance into the Missouri 837 Miles 636 Miles of
this distance I decended in 2 Small Canoes lashed together in which I
had the following Persons. John Shields, George Gibson, William
Bratten, W. Labeech, Toust. Shabono his wife & child & my man York. The
Rochejhone or Yellow Stone river is large and navagable with but fiew
obstructions quite into the rocky mountains. and probably near it's
source. The Country through which it passes from those Mounts. to its
junction is Generaly fertile rich open plains the upper portion of
which is roleing and the high hills and hill Sides are partially
covered with pine and Stoney. The middle portion or from the enterance
of Clarks Fork as low as the Buffalow Shoals the high lands Contain
Some Scattering pine on the Lard. Side. on the Stard. or S. E. Side is
Some hills thickly Supplied with pine. The lower portion of the river
but fiew pines are to be Seen the Country opens into extencive plains
river widens and Contains more islands and bars; of corse gravel sand
and Mud. The Current of this river may be estimated at 4 Miles and 1/2
pr. hour from the Rocky Mts. as low as Clarks Fork, at 31/2 Miles pr.
hour from thence as low as the Bighorn, at 3--Miles pr. hour from
thence as low as the Tongue river, at 23/4 Miles pr. hour from thence
as low as Wolf rapid and at 21/2 miles pr. hour from thence to its
enterance into the Missouri
The Colour of the Water differs from that of the Missouri it being of a
yellowish brown, whilst that of the Missouri is of a deep drab Colour
containing a greater portion of mud than the Rochejhone. This
delighfull river from indian information has it's extreem sources with
the North river in the Rocky mountains on the confines of New Mexico.
it also most probably has it's westerly sources connected with the
Multnomah and those the main Southerly branch of Lewis's river while
it's Easterly branches head with those of Clark's R. the bighorn and
River Platte and may be said to water the middle portion of the Rocky
Mountains from N W to S. E. for several hundred miles. the indians
inform us, that a good road passes up this river to it's extreem source
from whence it is buta short distance to the Spanish settlements. there
is also a considerable fall on this river within the mountains but at
what distance from it's source we never could learn like all other
branches of the Missouri which penetrate the Rocky Mountains all that
portion of it lying within those mountains abound in fine beaver and
Otter, it's streams also which issuing from the rocky mountain and
discharging themselves above Clark's fork inclusive also furnish an
abundance of beaver and Otter and possess considerable portions of
small timber in their values. to an establishment on this river at
clarks Fork the Shoshones both within and West of the Rocky Mountains
would willingly resort for the purposes of trade as they would in a
great measure be relived from the fear of being attacked by their
enimies the blackfoot Indians and Minnetares of fort de Prarie, which
would most probably happen were they to visit any establishment which
could be conveniently formed on the Missouri. I have no doubt but the
same regard to personal safety would also induce many numerous nations
inhabiting the Columbia and Lewis's river West of the mountains to
visit this establishment in preference to that at the entrance of
Maria's river, particularly during the first years of those Western
establishments. the Crow Indians, Paunch Indians Castahanah's and
others East of the mountains and south of this place would also visit
this establishment; it may therefore be looked to as one of the most
important establishments of the western fur trade. at the entrance of
Clark's fork there is a sufficiency of timber to support an
establishment, an advantage that no position possesses from thence to
the Rocky Mountains. The banks of the yellowstone river a bold not very
high yet are not subject to be overflown, except for a few miles
immediately below where the river issues from the mountain. the bed of
this river is almost entirely composed of loose pebble, nor is it's bed
interrupted by chains of rock except in one place and that even
furnishes no considerable obstruction to it's navigation. as you decend
with the river from the mountain the pebble becomes smaller and the
quantity of mud increased untill you reah Tongue river where the pebble
ceases and the sand then increases and predominates near it's mouth.
This river can be navigated to greater advantage in perogues than any
other craft yet it possesses suficient debth of water for battauxs even
to the mountains; nor is there any of those moving sand bars so
formidable to the navigation of many parts of the Missouri. The Bighorn
R and Clark's fork may be navigated a considerable distance in perogues
and canoes. Tongue river is also navigable for canoes a considerable
distance.
[Clark, August 4, 1806]
Wednesday 4th August 1806
Musquetors excessively troublesom So much So that the men complained
that they could not work at their Skins for those troublesom insects.
and I find it entirely impossible to hunt in the bottoms, those insects
being So noumerous and tormenting as to render it imposseable for a man
to continue in the timbered lands and our best retreat from those
insects is on the Sand bars in the river and even those Situations are
only clear of them when the Wind Should happen to blow which it did to
day for a fiew hours in the middle of the day. the evenings nights and
mornings they are almost indureable perticelarly by the party with me
who have no Bears to keep them off at night, and nothing to Screen them
but their blankets which are worn and have maney holes. The torments of
those Missquetors and the want of a Sufficety of Buffalow meat to dry,
those animals not to be found in this neighbourhood induce me to
deturmine to proceed on to a more eliagiable Spot on the Missouri below
at which place the Musquetors will be less troublesom and Buffalow more
plenty. (I will here obseve that Elk is Abundant but their flesh & fat
is hard to dry in the Sun, and when dry is much easirSpoiled than
either the Buffalow or Deer) I ordered the Canoes to be reloaded with
our baggage & dryed meat which had been Saved on the Rochejhone
together with the Elk killed at this place. wrote a note to Capt Lewis
informing him of my intentions and tied it to a pole which I had Stuck
up in the point. At 5 P. M Set out and proceeded on down to the 2d
point which appeared to be an eligable Situation for my purpose killed
a porcupine on this point the Musquetors were So abundant that we were
tormented much worst than at the point. The Child of Shabono has been
So much bitten by the Musquetor that his face is much puffed up &
Swelled. I encamped on this extensive Sand bar which is on the N W.
Side.
[Clark, August 5, 1806]
Thursday 5th August 1806.
The Musquetors was So troublesom to the men last night that they Slept
but very little. indeed they were excessive troublesom to me. my
Musquetor Bear has a number of Small holes worn through they pass in. I
Set out at an early hour intending to proceed to Some other Situation.
I had not proceded on far before I Saw a ram of the big horn Animal
near the top of a Lard. Bluff I assended the hill with a view to kill
the ram. the Misquetors was So noumerous that I could not keep them off
my gun long enough to take Sight and by thair means missed. at 10 a.m.
the wind rose with a gentle breeze from the N. W. which in Some measure
thinned the Misquetors. I landed on a Sand bar from the South Point
intending to form a Camp at this place and Continue untill Capt Lewis
Should arive. and killed two Buck Elks and a Deer the best of their
flesh & fat I had Saved. had all the dryed meat & fat put out to Sun
and continued at this place untill late in the evening finding that
there were no buffalow or fresh Sign I deturmined to proceed on
accordingly Set out at 4 P. M and proceeded on but a fiew miles eeir I
saw a Bear of the white Species walking on a Sand bear. I with one man
went on the Sand bear and killed the Bear which proved to be a feemale
very large and fat. much the fattest animale we have killed on the rout
as this bear had got into the river before we killed her I had her toed
across to the South Side under a high Bluff where formed a Camp, had
the bear Skined and fleaced. our Situation was exposed to a light
breeze of wind which continued all the forepart of the night from the S
W. and blew away the misquetors.
[Clark, August 6, 1806]
Friday 6th August 1806
I rose very wet. about 11 P M last night the wind become very hard for
a fiew minits Suckceeded by Sharp lightning and hard Claps of Thunder
and rained for about 2 hours very hard after which it continued Cloudy
the balance of the night. as we were about Setting out a female Big
horn animal came on the bluff imediately above us and looked down. I
derected Labeech to Shoot it which he did, after Skinning this animal
we Set out and proceeded on to a Sand bar on the S W. Side below the
enterance of White earth river where I landed and had the meat Skins
and bedding all put out to dry. wind hard from the N W. I halted on the
N W. Side of this river in the bend above the white earth river, where
I saw where the Indians had been digging a root which they eate and use
in Seup, not more than 7 or 8 days past. This morning a very large Bear
of white Specis, discovered us floating in the water and takeing us, as
I prosume to be Buffalow imediately plunged into the river and prosued
us. I directed the men to be Still. this animal Came within about 40
yards of us, and tacked about. we all fired into him without killing
him, and the wind So high that we could not pursue him, by which means
he made his escape to the Shore badly wounded. I have observed buffalow
floating down which I suppose must have been drounded in Crossing
above. more or less of those animals drown or mire in passing this
river. I observed Several floating buffalow on the R. Rochejhone
imediately below where large gangues had Crossed. The wind blew hard
all the after part of the day. I derected the men to dress their Skins
except one which I took with me and walkd. through the bottom to the
foot of the hills I killed five deer and the man with me killed 2. four
others were killed in the Course of the day by the party only 2 of
those deer were fat owing as I suppose to the Musquetors which are So
noumerous and troublesom to them that they Cannot feed except under the
torments of millions of those Musquetors.
[Clark, August 7, 1806]
Saturday 7th August 1806
Some hard rain this morning after daylight which wet us all. I formed a
Sort of Camped and delayed untill 11 a.m. when it Stoped raining for a
short time. I directed every thing put on board and proceeded on down.
the rain Continued at intervales all day tho not hard in the evenig Saw
a Bear on the bank but Could not get a Shoot at it. at 6 P M I landed
on a Sand bar on the South Side and Campd. Soon after we landed the
wind blew very hard for about 2 hours, when it lulled a little. the air
was exceedingly Clear and Cold and not a misquetor to be Seen, which is
a joyfull circumstance to the Party.
[Clark, August 8, 1806]
Sunday 8th August 1806
A cool windey morning I derected Shields and Gibson to turn out and
hunt this morning. at 8 A.M. Sergt. N. Pryor Shannon, hall & Windsor
Came down the river in two Canoes made of Buffalow Skins. Sergt. Pryor
informed me that the Second night after he parted with me on the river
Rochejhone he arived about 4 P M on the banks of a large Creek which
contained no running water. he halted to let the horses graze dureing
which time a heavy Shower of rain raised the Creek so high that Several
horses which had Stragled across the Chanel of this Creek was obliged
to Swim back. here he deturmined to Continue all night it being in good
food for the horses. In the morning he could See no horses. in lookg
about their Camp they discovered Several tracks within 100 paces of
their Camp, which they pursued found where they had Caught and drove
off all the horses. they prosued on five miles the Indians there
divided into two parties. they Continued in pursute of the largest
party five miles further finding that there was not the Smallest Chance
of overtakeing them, they returned to their Camp and packed up their
baggage on their backs and Steared a N. E. course to the River
Rochejhone which they Struck at pompys Tower, there they killed a
Buffalow Bull and made a Canoe in the form and shape of the mandans &
Ricares (the form of a bason) and made in the following manner. Viz: 2
Sticks of 11/4 inch diameter is tied together So as to form a round
hoop of the Size you wish the canoe, or as large as the Skin will allow
to cover, two of those hoops are made one for the top or brim and the
for the bottom the deabth you wish the Canoe, then Sticks of the Same
Size are Crossed at right angles and fastened with a throng to each
hoop and also where each Stick Crosses each other. then the Skin when
green is drawn tight over this fraim and fastened with throngs to the
brim or outer hoop So as to form a perfect bason. one of those Canoes
will carry 6 or 8 Men and their loads. Those two Canoes are nearly the
Same Size 7 feet 3 inches diamieter & 16 inchs deep 15 ribs or Cross
Sticks in each. Sergt. Pryor informs me that the Cause of his building
two Canoes was for fear of ones meating with Some accedent in passing
down the rochejhone a river entirely unknown to either of them by which
means they might loose their guns and amunition and be left entirely
destitute of the means of precureing food. he informed me that they
passed through the worst parts of the rapids & Shoals in the river
without takeing a drop of water, and waves raised from the hardest
winds dose not effect them. on the night of the 26th ulto. the night
after the horses had been stolen a Wolf bit Sergt. Pryor through his
hand when asleep, and this animal was So vicious as to make an attempt
to Seize Windsor, when Shannon fortunately Shot him. Sergt. Pryers
hand has nearly recovered. The Country through which St. Pryor Passed
after he parted with me is a broken open Country. he passed one Small
river which I have Called Pryors river which rises in a Mtn. to the
South of Pompys tower. The note I left on a pole at the Mouth of the
River Rochejhone Sergt. Pryor concluding that Capt. Lewis had passed
took the note and brought it with him. Capt. Lewis I expect will be
certain of my passing by the Sign which I have made and the encampment
imediately in the point. Sergt. Pryor bing anxious to overtake me Set
out Some time before day this morning and forgot his Saddlebags which
contains his papers &c. I Sent Bratten back with him in Serch of them.
I also Sent Shannon over to hunt the bottom on the opposit Side.
Shields and Gibson returned at 10 A.M. with the Skins and part of the
flesh of three deer which they had killed in this bottom. I derected
them to take one of the Skin Canoes and proceed down to the next bottom
and untill my arival which will be this evening if Sergt. Pryor returns
in time. My object is to precure as many Skins as possible for the
purpose of purchaseing Corn and Beans of the Mandans. as we have now no
article of Merchindize nor horses to purchase with, our only resort is S
kins which those people were very fond the winter we were Stationed
near them. after dark Sergt. Pryor returned with his Saddlebeggs &c.
they were much further up than he expected.
[Clark, August 9, 1806]
Monday 9th August 1806
a heavy dew this morning. loaded the Canoes and proceeded on down about
6 miles and landed at the Camp of the 2 hunters Shields and Gibson
whome I had Sent down to hunt last evening, they had killed five deer
two of which were in good order which they brought in. here I took
brackfast and proceeded on a fiew miles and I walked on Shore across a
point of near 10 miles in extent in this bottom which was mostly open I
saw Some fiew deer and Elk. I killed 3 of the deer which were Meagure
the Elk appeared fat. I did not kill any of them as the distance to the
river was too great for the men to Carry the meat at the lower part of
this bottom a large Creek of runnig water 25 yds wide falls in which
meanders through an open roleing plain of great extent. in the low
bottoms of this Creek I observed Some timber Such as Cottonwood, ash &
Elm. on my arival at the lower part of the bottom found that the canoes
had been in waiting for me nearly two hours. The Squar brought me a
large and well flavoured Goose berry of a rich Crimsin Colour, and deep
purple berry of the large Cherry of the Current Speces which is common
on this river as low as the Mandans, the engagees Call it the Indian
Current. I landed opposit to a high plain on the S. E. Side late in the
evening and walked in a Grove of timber where I met with an Elk which I
killed. this Elk was the largest Buck I ever Saw and the fattest animal
which have been killed on the rout. I had the flesh and fat of this Elk
brought to Camp and cut thin ready to dry. the hunters killed nothing
this evening.
[Clark, August 10, 1806]
Tuesday 10th August 1806
had the flesh of the elk hung on poles to dry, and Sent out the the
hunters. wind blew hard from the East all day. in the after part of the
day it was cloudy & a fiew drops of rain. I finished a Copy of my
Sketches of the River Rochejhone. Shields killed a black tail deer & an
antilope. the other hunters killed nothing. deer are very Scerce on
this part of the river. I found a Species of Cherry in the bottom the
Srub or bush which are differant from any which I have ever Seen and
not very abundant even in this Small tract of country to which it Seems
to be confined. the Stem is compound erect and subdivided or branching
without any regular order. it rises to the hight of 8 or 10 feet Seldom
putting out more than one Stem from the Same root not growing in cops
as the Choke Cherry does. the bark is Smooth and of a dark brown
colour. the leaf is petialate, oval accutely pointed at it's apex, from
1 and a 1/4 to one and a 1/2 inch in length and from a half to 3/4 of
an inch in wedth, finely or manutely Serrate, pale green and free from
bubessance. The fruit is a globular berry about the Size of a buck Shot
of a fine Scarlet red; like the cherries cultivated in the U. States
each is supported by a Seperate Celindric flexable branch peduncle
which issues from the extremities of the boughs. the peduncle of this
cherry Swells as it approaches the fruit being largest at the point of
insertion. the pulp of this fruit is of an agreeable ascid flavour and
is now ripe. the Style and Stigma are permanent. I have never Seen it
in blume. it is found on the high Stiff lands or hill Sides-. the men
dug great parcel of the root which the Nativs call Hankee and the
engagees the white apple which they boiled and made use of with their
meat. This is a large insipid root and very tasteless. the nativs use
this root after it is dry and pounded in their Seup.
[Clark, August 11, 1806]
Wednesday 11th August 1806
I set out early this morning. at 10 A.M. landed on a Sand bar and
brackfast dureing brackfast and my delay at this place which was 2
hours had the Elk meat exposed to the Sun. at Meridian I set out and
had not proceeded more than 2 miles before I observed a Canoe near the
Shore. I derected the Canoes to land here I found two men from the
illinoies Jos. Dixon, and ____ Handcock those men are on a trapping
expedition up the River Rochejhone. They inform me that they left the
Illinois in the Summer 1804. the last winter they Spent with the Tetons
in Company with a Mr. Coartong who brought up goods to trade The tetons
robed him of the greater part of the goods and wounded this Dixon in
the leg with a hard wad. The Tetons gave Mr. Coartong Some fiew robes
for the articles they took from him. Those men further informed me that
they met the Boat and party we Sent down from Fort Mandan near the
Kanzas river on board of which was a Chief of the Ricaras, that he met
the Yankton Chiefs with Mr. Deurion, McClellen & Several other traders
on their way down. that the Mandans and Menitarrais wer at war with the
Ricaras and had killed two of the latter. the Assinniboins were also at
war with the Mandans &c and had prohibited the N W. traders from
Comeing to the Missouri to trade. they have latterly killed one Trader
near the Mous River and are now in wait for Mr. McKenzey one of the
Clerks who have been for a long time with Menetarias. Those dificulties
if true will I fear be a bar to our expectations of having the Mandan
Minetarra & Ricara Chief to acompany us to the U. States. Tho we Shall
endeaver to bring abot a peace between Mandans Mennetaries & Ricaras
and provail on Some of their Cheifs to accompany us to the U. States.
proceeded on to a point on the S W Side nearly opposit the enterance of
Goat pen creek and encamped found the Musquetors excessively troublesom.
[Clark, August 12, 1806]
Thursday 12th August 1806
I set out early this morning and had not proceeded on far before
Shannon discovered he had lost his Tomahk. I derected him to land his
Skin Canoe and go back to our Camp of last night in Serch of it, and
proceeded on my self with the two wood and one Skin Canoe to a large
hottom on the N. E Side above the head of Jins island and landed to
take brackfast as well as to delay untill Shannon & Gibson Should
arive. Sent out Shields & Labiech to hunt deer in the bottom, at 2 P m.
Shannon and gibson arived having found the tomahawk at our camp they
killed 3 Elk &c. one of the Canoes of Buffalow Skin by accident got a
hole peirced in her of about 6 inches diamuter. I derected two of the
men to patch the Canoe with a piece of Elk skin over the hole, which
they did and it proved all Sufficient, after which the Canoe did not
leak one drop. The two hunters returned without haveing killed any
thing. at meridian Capt Lewis hove in Sight with the party which went
by way of the Missouri as well as that which accompanied him from
Travellers rest on Clarks river; I was alarmed on the landing of the
Canoes to be informed that Capt. Lewis was wounded by an accident-. I
found him lying in the Perogue, he informed me that his wound was
slight and would be well in 20 or 30 days this information relieved me
very much. I examined the wound and found it a very bad flesh wound the
ball had passed through the fleshey part of his left thy below the hip
bone and cut the cheek of the right buttock for 3 inches in length and
the debth of the ball. Capt L. informed me the accident happened the
day before by one of the men Peter Crusat misstakeig him in the thick
bushes to be an Elk. Capt Lewis with this Crusat and Several other men
were out in the bottom Shooting of Elk, and had Scattered in a thick
part of the woods in pursute of the Elk. Crusat Seeing Capt L. passing
through the bushes and takeing him to be an Elk from the Colour of his
Cloathes which were of leather and very nearly that of the Elk fired
and unfortunately the ball passed through the thy as aforesaid. Capt
Lewis thinking it indians who had Shot him hobbled to the canoes as
fast as possible and was followered by Crusat, the mistake was then
discovered. This Crusat is near Sighted and has the use of but one eye,
he is an attentive industerous man and one whome we both have placed
the greatest Confidence in dureing the whole rout.--After Capt. Lewis
and my Self parted at Travellers rest, he with the Indians proceeded
down the West Side of Clarks river Seven miles and crossed on rafts 2
miles below the East fork 120 yards wide, after Crossing the river he
proceeded up the North Side of the east fork and encampd. here the
Indians left him and proceeded down Clarks river in Serch of the
Tushepaws. an Indian man Came up with Cap L. from the W. of the
mountains and proceeded on with those who had accompanied us. Capt. L.
proceeded up the E. fork of Clarks river 17 ms. to the enterance of
Cokahlarishkit river or the river to buffalow, he proceeded up on the
North Side of this river which is 60 yards wide crossing Several Small
Streams and the N. fork, and passing over part of the dividing mountain
onto the waters of Deabourns river in the plains and in a Derection to
the N. extremity of Easte range of rocky mountains which pass the
Missouri at the pine Island Rapid. from thence he bore his Course to
the N E untill he Struck Meadcin river near where that river Enters the
rocky Mts. and proceeded down Medicine river to the Missouri at the
white bear Islands at the upper part of the portage. this rout is a
very good one tho not the most derect rout, the most derect rout would
be to proceed up the Missouri above Dearborns river and take a right
hand road & fall on a South branch of the Cokatlarishkit R. and proceed
down that river to the main road but the best rout would be from the
falls of the Missouri by fort mountain and passing the N. extremity of
that range of the Rocky Mountains which pass the Missouri at the pine
Island rapid Course nearly S. W. and to the gap through which the great
road passeds the dividing mountain the distance from the falls to this
gap about 45 miles through a tolerable leavel plain on an old indian
road. and the distance from thence to Clarks river is 105 miles. The
total distance from the falls of the Missouri to Clarks river is only
150 miles of a tolerable road--Capt L. arived at the white Bear Islands
and encampd. on the West Side of the Missouri and in the morning he
discovered that the Indians had taken of Seven of his best horses,
drewyer prosued the indians two day's on the rout towards Clarks river.
he Saw their camp on Dearborns river near the road on which Capt. Lewis
& party Come on a by place where they had left only one or two day at
this encampment he Saw great appearanc of horses--on the return of
Drewyer Capt L. took Drewyer & the 2 fieldses & proceeded on his
intended rout up Marias river leaving Sergt. Gass, Thompson, Frazier,
Werner, McNeal & Goodrich at the portage to prepare Geer and repar the
wheels & Carrage against the arival of the Canoes and he also left 4
horses for the purpose of hauling the Canoes across. The Canoes arrived
on the 16th, and on the 26th they had all except one across, the Plains
becom So muddy from the emence rains which had fallen, that they Could
not get her over the portage. on the 28th they joined Capt Lewis at the
Grog Spring a fiew miles above the enterance of Marias river From the
Falls of Missouri Capt. L. proceeded on with Drewyer & the 2 fieldses
Courss
On the 26th of July Capt Lewis Set out on his return to the enterance
of Marias river to meet with the party with, the Canoes from the falls.
his course was through the plains