Ms. 25 balld toped hill for 2 m. thence through and to the left of a
large low bottom 2 M. thence three miles through a thick wood along the
hill side bottoms narrow. thence 1 m. to our encampment on a large
creek some little distance above it's mouth through a beatifull plain
on the border of which we passed the remains of 32 old lodges. they
appear to be those of the Minnetares as are all those we have seen
today. killed five deer and a beaver today. encamped on the creek much
sign of beaver in this extensive bottom.
[Lewis, July 7, 1806]
July 7 1806. Set out at 7 A.M.
N. 75 E. 6 M. with the road through a level beatifull plain on the
North side of the river much timber in the bottoms hills also timbered
with pitch pine. no longleafed pine since we left the praries of the
knobs. crossed a branch of the creek 8 yds. wid. on which we encamped
at 1/4 m. also passed a creek 15 yd. wide at 1/4 further.
North 6 ms.--passed the main creek at a mile 1/2 and kept up it on the
wright hand side through handsom plain bottoms to the foot of a ridge
which we ascended the main stream boar N W & W. as far as I could see
it a wright hand fork falls into this creek at 1 M. above the
commencement of this course.
N. 15 E. 8 m. over two ridges and again striking the wrighthand fork at
4 ms. then continued up it on the left hand side much appearance of
beaver many dams. bottoms not wide and covered with low willow and
grass. halted to dine at a large beaver dam the hunters killed 3 deer
and a fawn. deer are remarkably plenty and in good order. Reubin Fields
wounded a moos deer this morning near our camp. my dog much worried.
N. 10 E. 3 m. up the same creek on the east side through a handsome
narrow plain.
N 45 E. 2 m. passing the dividing ridge betwen the waters of the
Columbia and Missouri rivers at 1/4 of a mile from this gap which is
low and an easy ascent on the W. side the fort mountain bears North
Eaast, and appears to be distant about 20 Miles. the road for one and
3/4 miles desends the hill and continues down a branch.
N. 20 W. 7 ms. over several hills and hollows along the foot of the
mountain hights passing five small rivulets running to the wright. saw
some sighn of buffaloe early this morning in the valley where we
encamped last evening from which it appears that the buffaloe do
sometimes penetrate these mountains a few miles. we saw no buffaloe
this evening. but much old appearance of dung, tracks &c. encamped on a
small run under the foot of the mountain. after we encamped Drewyer
killed two beaver and shot third which bit his knee very badly and
escaped
[Lewis, July 8, 1806]
July 8th 1806.
Set out at 6 A.M.
N 25 W. 31/2 m. to the top of a hill from whence we saw the Shishequaw
mountain about 8 M. distant, immediately before us. passed Dearborne's
river at 3 m. this stream comes form the S. W. out of the mountains
which are about 5 Ms. to our left. the bed of the river is about 100
yds. wide tho the water occupys only about 30 yds. it appears to spread
over it's bottoms at certain seasons of the year and runs a mear
torrant tearing up the trees by the roots which stand in it's bottom
the Shishiquaw mountain is a high insulated conic mountain standing
several miles in advance of the Eastern range of the rocky mountains.
Country broken and mountanous to our wright.
North--141/2 ms. through an open plain to Shishequaw Creek 20 yds. wide
bottoms and considerable gantity of timber it leaves the mountain to
the S E and enters the mountains. we struck it about 10 miles below the
mountain which boar S. 32 W. from us. the road continued along the foot
of the mountain to the West of north which not being anything like our
course and the country becoming tolerably level at the commencement of
this course we steered through the plains leaving the road with a view
to strike Medicine river and hunt down it to it's mouth in order to
procure the necessary skins to make geer, and meat for the three men
whom we mean to leave at the falls as none of them are hunters. we
halted and dined on Shishequaw Creek R. Fields killed a fine buck and a
goat; Josh. Fields saw two buffaloe below us some distance which are
the first that have been seen. we saw a great number of deer goats and
wolves as we passed through the plains this morning but no Elk or
buffaloe. saw some barking squirrils much rejoiced at finding ourselves
in the plains of the Missouri which abound with game.
N. 50 E 2 m. to the discharge of Shishequaw Creek into the Medicine
Rivers through an extensive beautiful) and level bottom.
N. 85° E. 8 m. to our encampment of this evening on a large island the
bottoms continue level low and extensive plains level and not very
elivated partcularly on the N. E. side of the river. the land of
neither the plains nor bottoms is fertile. it is of a light colour
intermixed with a considerable proportion of gravel the grass generally
about 9 inghes high. the hunters were unsuccessful this evening. I
killed a very large and the whitest woolf I have seen-
[Lewis, July 9, 1806]
July 9th 1806. Set out early and had not proceeded far before it began
to rain. the
air extreemly cold. halted a few minutes in some old lodges until it
cased to rain in some measure. we then proceeded and it rained without
intermission wet us to the skin.
N. 80° E. 4 ms. through a handsome level wide bottom in which there is a
considerable quanty of narrow leafed cottonwood timber. the river is
generally about 80 yds. wide rapid yet I think it migt be navigated.
it's bed is loose gravel and pebbles. the banks low but seldom
overflow. water clear.
S 85 E 4 ms Still on the S W. side of the river through wide and level
bottoms some timber. Joseph feilds killed a very fat buffaloe bull and
we halted to dine. we took the best of the meat as much as we could
possibly carry on our horses. the day continuing rainy and cold I
concluded to remain all day. we feasted on the buffaloe. saw a number
of deer wolves and Antelopes. killed two deer.
[Lewis, July 10, 1806]
July 10th 1806. Set out early and continued down the S W bank of the
river
N 75 E 24 m. to our encampment in a grove of cottonwood timber. the
latter part of this course for 7 miles there is no timber in the river
bottom, the other parts of the river possesses bottoms of the wide
leafed cottonwood. much the greater part of the bottom is untimbered.
the bottoms are wide and level the high praries or plains are also
beautiful level and smooth. great quantities of prickly pear of two
kinds on the plains. the ground is renderd so miry by the rain which
fell yesterday that it is excessively fatiegueing to the horses to
travel. we came 10 miles and halted for dinner the wind blowing down
the river in the fore part of the day was unfavourable to the hunters
they saw several gangs of Elk but they having the wind of them ran off.
in the evening the wind set from the West and we fell in with a few elk
of which R. Fields and myself killed 3 one of which swam the river and
fell on the opposite so we therefore lost it's skin I sent the
packhorses on with Sergt. Gass directing them to halt and encamp at the
first timber which proved to be about 7 ms. I retained frazier to
assist in skining the Elk. we wer about this time joined by drewer. a
large brown bear swam the river near where we were and drewyer shot and
killed it. by the time we butchered thes 2 elk and bar it was nearly
dark we loaded our horses with the best of the meat and pursud the
party and found them encamped as they had been directed in the first
timber. we did not reach them until 9 P.M. they informed us that they
had seen a very large bear in the plains which had pursued Sergt. Gass
and Thomson some distance but their horses enabled them to keep out of
it's reach. they were affraid to fire on the bear least their horses
should throw them as they were unaccustomed to the gun. we killed five
deer 3 Elk and a bear today saw vast herds of buffaloe in the evening
below us on the river. we hered them bellowing about us all night. vast
assemblages of wolves. saw a large herd of Elk making down the river.
passed a considerable rapid in medicine river after dark. the river
about a hundred yards wide is deep and in many parts rappid and today
has been much crouded with islands. from our encampment down we know
the river and there is no rapids and scarcely any courant. goosberries
are very abundant of the common red kind and are begining to ripen. no
currants on this river. both species of the prickly pears just in blume.
[Lewis, July 11, 1806]
July 11th 1806.
the morning was fair and the plains looked beatifull the grass much
improved by the late rain. the air was pleasant and a vast assemblage
of little birds which croud to the groves on the river sung most
enchantingly. we set out early. I sent the hunters down Medicine river
to hunt Elk and proceeded with the party across the plain to the white
bear Islands which I found to be 8 ms. distant my course S. 75 E.-
through a level beautiful) and extensive high plain covered with
immence birds of buffaloe.--it is now the season at which the buffaloe
begin to coppelate and the bulls keep a tremendious roaring we could
hear them for many miles and there are such numbers of them that there
is one continual roar. our horses had not been acquainted with the
buffaloe they appeared much allarmed at their appearance and bellowing.
when I arrived in sight of the whitebear Islands the missouri bottoms
on both sides of the river were crouded with buffaloe I sincerely
belief that there were not less than 10 thousand buffaloe within a
circle of 2 miles arround that place. I met with the hunters at a
little grove of timber opposite to the island where they had killed a
cowl and were waiting our arrival. they had met with no elk. I directed
the hunters to kill some buffaloe as well for the benifit of their
skins to enable us to pass the river as for their meat for the men I
meant to leave at this place. we unloaded our horses and encamped
opposite to the Islands. had the cow skined and some willows sticks
collected to make canoes of the hides by 12 OCk. they killed eleven
buffaloe most of them in fine order. the bulls are now generally much
fatter than the cows and are fine beef. I sent out all hands with the
horses to assist in buthering and bringing in the meat by 3 in the
evening we had brought in a large quantity of fine beef and as many
hides as we wanted for canoes shelters and geer. I then set all hands
to prepare two canoes the one we made after the mandan fassion with a
single skin in the form of a bason and the other we constructed of two
skins on a plan of our own. we were unable to compleat our canoes this
evening. the wind blew very hard. we continued our operations untill
dark and then retired to rest. I intend giving my horses a couple of
days rest at this place and deposit all my baggage which is not
necessary to my voyage up medicine river.
[Lewis, July 12, 1806]
July 12th 1806. we arrose early and resumed our operations in
compleating our canoes which we completed by 10 A.M. about this time
two of the men whom I had dispatched this morning in quest of the
horses returned with seven of them only. the remaining ten of our best
horses were absent and not to be found. I fear that they are stolen. I
dispatch two men on horseback in surch of them. the wind blew so
violently that I did not think it prudent to attempt passing the
river.--at Noon Werner returned having found three others of the horses
near Fort Mountain. Sergt. Gass did not return untill 3 P.M. not having
found the horses. he had been about 8 ms. up medecine river. I now
dispatched Joseph Fields and Drewyer in quest of them. the former
returned at dark unsuccessfull and the latter continued absent all
night. at 5 P.M. the wind abated and we transported our baggage and
meat to the opposite shore in our canoes which we found answered even
beyond our expectations. we swam our horses over also and encamped at
sunset. quetoes extreemly troublesome. I think the river is somewhat
higher than when we were here last summer. the present season has been
much more moist than the preceeding one. the grass and weeds are much
more luxouriant than they were when I left this place on the 13th of
July 1805 saw the brown thrush, pigeons, doves &c.
the yellow Currants begining to ripen.
[Lewis, July 13, 1806]
13th July.
removed above to my old station opposite the upper point of the white
bear island. formed our camp and set Thompson &c at work to complete
the geer for the horses. had the cash opened found my bearskins entirly
destroyed by the water, the river having risen so high that the water
had penitrated. all my specimens of plants also lost. the Chart of the
Missouri fortunately escaped. opened my trunks and boxes and exposed
the articles to dry. found my papers damp and several articles damp.
the stoper had come out of a phial of laudinum and the contents had run
into the drawer and distroyed a gret part of my medicine in such manner
that it was past recovery. waited very impatiently for the return of
Drewyer he did not arrive. Musquetoes excessively troublesome insomuch
that without the protection of my musquetoe bier I should have found it
impossible to wright a moment. the buffaloe are leaving us fast and
passing on to the S. East. killed a buffaloe picker a beatifull bird.
[Lewis, July 14, 1806]
14th July
Had the carriage wheels dug up found them in good order. the iron frame
of the boat had not suffered materially. had the meat cut thiner and
exposed to dry in the sun. and some roots of cows of which I have yet a
small stock pounded into meal for my journey. I find the fat buffaloe
meat a great improvement to the mush of these roots. the old cash being
too damp to venture to deposit my trunks &c in I sent them over to the
Large island and had them put on a high scaffold among some thick brush
and covered with skins. I take this precaution lest some indians may
visit the men I leave here before the arrival of the main party and rob
them. the hunters killed a couple of wolves, the buffaloe have almost
entirely disappeared. saw the bee martin. the wolves are in great
numbers howling arround us and loling about in the plains in view at
the distance of two or three hundred yards. I counted 27 about the
carcase of a buffaloe which lies in the water at the upper point of the
large island. these are generally of the large kind. Drewyer did not
return this evening.-
[Lewis, July 15, 1806]
15 July 1806.
Sent McNeal down this morning to the lower part of the portage to see
whether the large perogue and cash were safe.--Drewyer returned without
the horses and reported that he had tracked them to beyond our camp of
the
[Lewis, July 15, 1806]
Tuesday July 15th 1806.
Dispatched McNeal early this morning to the lower part of portage in
order to learn whether the Cash and white perogue remained untouched or
in what state they were. the men employed in drying the meat, dressing
deerskins and preparing for the reception of the canoes. at 1 P.M.
Drewyer returned without the horses and reported that after a diligent
surch of 2 days he had discovered where the horses had passed
Dearborn's river at which place there were 15 lodges that had been
abandoned about the time our horses were taken; he pursued the tracks
of a number of horses from these lodges to the road which we had
traveled over the mountains which they struck about 3 ms. South of our
encampment of the 7th inst. and had pursued this road Westwardly; I
have no doubt but they are a party of the Tushapahs who have been on a
buffaloe hunt. Drewyer informed that there camp was in a small bottom
on the river of about 5 acres inclosed by the steep and rocky and lofty
clifts of the river and that so closely had they kept themselves and
horses within this little spot that there was not a track to be seen of
them within a quarter of a mile of that place. every spire of grass was
eaten up by their horses near their camp which had the appearance of
their having remained here some time. his horse being much fatiegued
with the ride he had given him and finding that the indians had at
least 2 days the start of him thought it best to return. his safe
return has releived me from great anxiety. I had already settled it in
my mind that a whitebear had killed him and should have set out
tomorrow in surch of him, and if I could not find him to continue my
rout to Maria's river. I knew that if he met with a bear in the plains
even he would attack him. and that if any accedent should happen to
seperate him from his horse in that situation the chances in favour of
his being killed would be as 9 to 10. I felt so perfectly satisfyed
that he had returned in safety that I thought but little of the horses
although they were seven of the best I had. this loss great as it is,
is not intirely irreparable, or at least dose not defeat my design of
exploring Maria's river. I have yet 10 horses remaining, two of the
best and two of the worst of which I leave to assist the party in
taking the canoes and baggage over the portage and take the remaining 6
with me; these are but indifferent horses most of them but I hope they
may answer our purposes. I shall leave three of my intended party, (viz
) Gass, Frazier and Werner, and take the two Feildses and Drewyer. by
having two spare horses we can releive those we ride. having made this
arrangement I gave orders for an early departure in the morning, indeed
I should have set out instantly but McNeal road one of the horses which
I intend to take and has not yet returned. a little before dark McNeal
returned with his musquet broken off at the breech, and informed me
that on his arrival at willow run he had approached a white bear within
ten feet without discover him the bear being in the thick brush, the
horse took the allarm and turning short threw him immediately under the
bear; this animal raised himself on his hinder feet for battle, and
gave him time to recover from his fall which he did in an instant and
with his clubbed musquet he struck the bear over the head and cut him
with the guard of the guns and broke off the breech, the bear stunned
with the stroke fell to the ground and began to scratch his head with
his feet; this gave McNeal time to climb a willow tree which was near
at hand and thus fortunately made his escape. the bear waited at the
foot of the tree untill late in the evening before he left him, when
McNeal ventured down and caught his horse which had by this time
strayed off to the distance of 2 ms. and returned to camp. these bear
are a most tremenduous animal; it seems that the hand of providence has
been most wonderfully in our favor with rispect to them, or some of us
would long since have fallen a sacrifice to their farosity. there seems
to be a sertain fatality attatched to the neighbourhood of these falls,
for there is always a chapter of accedents prepared for us during our
residence at them. the musquetoes continue to infest us in such manner
that we can scarcely exist; for my own part I am confined by them to my
bier at least 3/4ths of my time. my dog even howls with the torture he
experiences from them, they are almost insupportable, they are so
numerous that we frequently get them in our thrats as we breath.
[Lewis, July 16, 1806]
Wednesday July 16th 1806.
I dispatched a man early this morning to drive up the horses as usual,
he returned at 8 A.M. with one of them only. allarmed at this
occurrence I dispatched one of my best hands on horseback in surch of
them he returned at 10 A.M. with them and I immediately set out. sent
Drewyer and R. Fields with the horses to the lower side of Medecine
river, and proceeded myself with all our baggage and J. Fields down the
missouri to the mouth of Medecine river in our canoe of buffaloe skins.
we were compelled to swim the horses above the whitebear island and
again across medicine river as the Missouri is of great width below the
mouth of that river. having arrived safely below Medicine river we
immediatly sadled our horses and proceeded down the river to the
handsom fall of 47 feet where I halted about 2 hours and took a haisty
sketch of these falls; in the mean time we had some meat cooked and
took dinner after which we proceeded to the grand falls where we
arrived at sunset. on our way we saw two very large bear on the
opposite side of the river. as we arrived in sight of the little wood
below the falls we saw two other bear enter it; this being the only
wood in the neighbourhood we were compelled of course to contend with
the bear for possession, and therefore left our horses in a place of
security and entered the wood which we surched in vain for the bear,
they had fled. here we encamped and the evening having the appearance
of rain made our beds and slept under a shelving rock. these falls have
abated much of their grandure since I first arrived at them in June
1805, the water being much lower at preset than it was at that moment,
however they are still a sublimely grand object. I determined to take a
second drawing of it in the morning. we saw a few buffaloe as we passed
today, the immence hirds which were about this place on our arrival
have principally passed the river and directed their course downwards.
we see a number of goats or antilopes always in passing through the
plains of the Missouri above the Mandans. at this season they are
thinly scattered over the plains but seem universally distributed in
every part; they appear very inquisitive usually to learn what we are
as we pass, and frequently accompany us at no great distance for miles,
frequently halting and giving a loud whistle through their nostrils,
they are a very pretty animal and astonishingly fleet and active. we
spent this evening free from the torture of the Musquetoes. there are a
great number of geese which usually raise their young above these falls
about the entrance of Medicine river we saw them in large flocks of
several hundred as we passed today. I saw both yesterday and today the
Cookkoo or as it is sometimes called the rain craw. this bird is not
met with west of the Rocky Mountains nor within them.
[Lewis, July 17, 1806]
Thursday July 17th 1806.
I arrose early this morning and made a drawing of the falls. after
which we took breakfast and departed. it being my design to strike
Maria's river about the place at which I left it on my return to it's
mouth in the begining of June 1805. I steered my course through the
wide and level plains which have somewhat the appearance of an ocean,
not a tree nor a shrub to be seen. the land is not fertile, at least
far less so, than the plains of the Columbia or those lower down this
river, it is a light coloured soil intermixed with a considerable
proportion of coarse gravel without sand, when dry it cracks and
appears thursty and is very hard, in it's wet state, it is as soft and
slipry as so much soft soap the grass is naturally but short and at
present has been rendered much more so by the graizing of the buffaloe,
the whole face of the country as far as the eye can reach looks like a
well shaved bowlinggreen, in which immence and numerous herds of
buffaloe were seen feeding attended by their scarcely less numerous
sheepherds the wolves. we saw a number of goats as usual today, also
the party coloured plover with the brick red head and neck; this bird
remains about the little ponds which are distributed over the face of
these plains and here raise their young. we killed a buffaloe cow as we
passed throug the plains and took the hump and tonge which furnish
ample rations for four men one day. at 5 P.M. we arrived at rose rivers
where I purposed remaining all night as I could not reach maria's river
this evening and unless I did there would be but little probability of
our finding any wood and very probably no water either. on our arrival
at the river we saw where a wounded and bleading buffaloe had just
passed and concluded it was probable that the indians had been runing
them and were near at hand. the Minnetares of Fort de prarie and the
blackfoot indians rove through this quarter of the country and as they
are a vicious lawless and reather an abandoned set of wretches I wish
to avoid an interview with them if possible. I have no doubt but they
would steel our horses if they have it in their power and finding us
weak should they happen to be numerous wil most probably attempt to rob
us of our arms and baggage; at all events I am determined to take every
possible precaution to avoid them if possible. I hurried over the river
to a thick wood and turned out the horses to graize; sent Drewyer to
pursue and kill the wounded buffaloe in order to determine whether it
had been wounded by the indians or not, and proceeded myself to
reconnoitre the adjacent country having sent R. Fields for the same
purpose a different rout. I ascended the river hills and by the help of
my glass examined the plains but could make no discovery, in about an
hour I returned to camp, where I met with the others who had been as
unsuccessfull as myself. Drewyer could not find the wounded buffaloe.
J. Fields whom I had left at camp had already roasted some of the
buffaloe meat and we took dinner after which I sent Drewyer and R.
Fields to resume their resurches for the indians; and set myself down
to record the transactions of the day. rose river is at this place
fifty yards wide, the water which is only about 3 feet deep occupys
about 35 yds. and is very terbid of a white colour. the general course
of this river is from East to west so far as I can discover it's track
through the plains, it's bottoms are wide and well timbered with
cottonwood both the broad and narrow leafed speceis. the bed of this
stream is small gravel and mud; it's banks are low but never overflow,
the hills are about 100 or 150 feet high; it possesses bluffs of earth
like the lower part of the Missouri; except the debth and valocity of
it's stream and it is the Missouri in miniture. from the size of rose
river at this place and it's direction I have no doubt but it takes
it's source within the first range of the Rocky mountains. the bush
which bears the red berry is here in great plenty in the river bottoms
The spies returned having killed 2 beaver and a deer. they reported
that they saw no appearance of Indians.-
[Lewis, July 18, 1806]
Friday July 18th 1806.
We set out this morning a little before sunrise ascended the river
hills and continued our rout as yesterday through the open plains at
about 6 miles we reached the top of an elivated plain which divides the
waters of the rose river from those of Maria's river. from hence the
North mountains, the South mountains, the falls mountains and the Tower
Mountain and those arround and to the East of the latter were visible.
our course led us nearly parrallel with a creek of Maria's river which
takes it's rise in these high plains at the place we passed them; at
noon we struck this creek about 6 ms. from its junction with Maria's
river where we found some cottonwood timber; here we halted to dine and
graize our horses. the bed of this creek is about 25 yds. wide at this
place but is nearly dry at present, the water being confined to little
pools in the deeper parts of it's bed. from hence downwards there is a
considerable quantity of timber in it's bottom. we passed immence herds
of buffaloe on our way in short for about 12 miles it appeared as one
herd only the whole plains and vally of this creek being covered with
them; saw a number of wolves of both speceis, also Antelopes and some
horses. after dinner we proceeded about 5 miles across the plain to
Maria's river where we arrived at 6 P.M. we killed a couple of buffaloe
in the bottom of this river and encamped on it's west side in a grove
of cottonwood some miles above the entrance of the creek. being now
convinced that we were above the point to which I had formerly ascended
this river and faring that a fork of this stream might fall in on the
Northside between this place and the point to which I had ascended it,
I directed Drewyer who was with me on my former excurtion, and Joseph
Fields to decend the river early in the morning to the place from
whence I had returned, and examine whether any stream fell inn or not.
I keep a strict lookout every night, I take my tour of watch with the
men.
[Lewis, July 19, 1806]
Saturday July 19th 1806.
Drewyer and J. Fields set out early this morning in conformity to my
instructions last evening. they returned at 1/2 after 12 OCk. and
informed me that they had proceeded down the river to the place from
which I had returned on the ____ of June last and that it was 6 miles
distant. they passed the entrance of buffaloe Creek at 2 ms. the course
of the river from hence downwards as far as they were is N. 80 E. they
killed 8 deer and two Antelopes on their way; most of the deer were
large fat mule bucks. having completed my observation of the sun's
meridian Altitude we set out, ascended the river hills having passed
the river and proceeded through the open plains up the N. side of the
river 20 miles and encamped. at 15 miles we passed a large creek on N.
side a little above it's entrance; there is but little running water in
this creek at present, it's bed is about 30 yds. wide and appears to
come from the broken Mountains so called from their raggid and
irregular shape there are three of them extending from east to West
almost unconnected, the center mountain terminates in a conic spire and
is that which I have called the tower mountain they are destitute of
timber. from the entrance of this creek they bore N. 10° W. the river
bottoms are usually about 1/2 a mile wide and possess a considerable
quantity of timber entirely cottonwood; the underbrush is honeysuckle
rose bushes the narrow leafed willow and the bush which bears the acid
red berry called by the french engages grease de buff. just as we
halted to encamp R. Fields killed a mule doe. the plains are beautifull
and level but the soil is but thin. in many parts of the plains there
are great quantities of prickly pears. saw some herds of buffaloe today
but not in such quantities as yesterday, also antelopes, wolves, gees,
pigeons, doves, hawks, ravens crows larks sparrows &c. the Curlooe has
disappeared.
[Lewis, July 20, 1806]
Sunday July 20th 1806
We set at sunrise and proceed through the open plain as yesterday up
the North side of the river. the plains are more broken than they were
yesterday and have become more inferior in point of soil; a great
quanty of small gravel is every where distributed over the surface of
the earth which renders travling extreemly painfull to our bearfoot
horses. the soil is generally a white or whiteish blue clay, this where
it has been trodden by the buffaloe when wet has now become as firm as
a brickbat and stands in an inumerable little points quite as
formidable to our horses feet as the gravel. the mineral salts common
to the plains of the missouri has been more abundant today than usual.
the bluffs of the river are about 200 feet high, steep irregular and
formed of earth which readily desolves with water, slips and
precipitates itself into the river as before mentioned frequentlly of
the bluffs of the Missouri below which they resemble in every
particular, differing essencially from those of the Missouri above the
entrance of this river, they being composed of firm red or yellow clay
which dose not yeald readily to the rains and a large quantity of rock.
the soil of the river bottom is fertile and well timbered, I saw some
trees today which would make small canoes. the timber is generally low.
the underbrush the same as before mentioned. we have seen fewer
buffaloe today than usual, though more Elk and not less wolves and
Antelopes also some mule deer; this speceis of deer seems most
prevalent in this quarter. saw some gees ducks and other birds common
to the country. there is much appearance of beaver on this river, but
not any of otter. from the apparent decent of the country to the North
and above the broken mountains I am induced to beleive that the South
branch of the Suskashawan receives a part of it's waters from the plain
even to the borders of this river and from the brakes visible in the
plains in a nothern direction think that a branch of that river
decending from the rocky mountains passes at no great distance from
Maria's river and to the N. E. of the broken mountains. the day has
proved excessively warm and we lay by four hours during the heat of it;
we traveled 28 miles and encamped as usual in the river bottom on it's
N. side. there is scarcely any water at present in the plains and what
there is, lies in small pools and is so strongly impregnated with the
mineral salts that it is unfit for any purpose except the uce of the
buffaloe. these animals appear to prefer this water to that of the
river. the wild liquorice and sunflower are very abundant in the plains
and river bottoms, the latter is now in full blume; the silkgrass and
sand rush are also common to the bottom lands. the musquetoes have not
been troublesome to us since we left the whitebear islands.-
[Lewis, July 21, 1806]
Monday July 21st 1806.
We set out at sunrise and proceeded a short distance up the North side
of the river; we found the ravines which made in on this side were so
steep and numerous that we passed the river in doing which the pack
horse which carried my instruments missed the ford and wet the
instruments. this accident detained us about half an hor. I took the
Instruments out wiped them and dryed their cases, they sustained no
naterial injury. we continued on the S. side of the river about 3 miles
when we again passed over to the N. side and took our course through
the plains at some distance from the river. we saw a large herd of Elk
this morning. the buffaloe still become more scarce. at 2 P.M. we
struck a northern branch of Marias river about 30 yds. wide at the
distance of about 8 miles from it's entrance. this stream is closely
confined between clifts of freestone rocks the bottom narrow below us
and above the rocks confine it on each side; some little timber below
but not any above; the water of this stream is nearly clear. from the
appearance of this rock and the apparent hight of the bed of the streem
I am induced to beleive that there are falls in these rivers somewhere
about their junction. being convinced that this stream came from the
mountains I determined to pursue it as it will lead me to the most
nothern point to which the waters of Maria's river extend which I now
fear will not be as far north as I wished and expected. after dinner we
set out up the North branch keeping on it's S. side; we pursued it
untill dark and not finding any timber halted and made a fire of the
dung of the buffaloe. we lay on the south side in a narrow bottom under
a Clift. our provision is nearly out, we wounded a buffaloe this
evening but could not get him.
[Lewis, July 22, 1806]
Tuesday July 22ed 1806.
We set out very early this morning as usual and proceeded up the river.
for the first seven miles of our travel this morning the country was
broken the land poor and intermixed with a greater quantity of gravel
than usual; the ravines were steep and numerous and our horses feet
have become extreemly soar in traveling over the gravel we therefore
traveled but slow. we met with a doe Elk which we wounded but did not
get her. the river is confined closely between clifts of perpendicular
rocks in most parts. after the distance of seven miles the country
became more level les gravly and some bottoms to the river but not a
particle of timber nor underbush of any discription is to be seen. we
continued up the river on it's South side for 17 miles when we halted
to glaize our horses and eat; there being no wood we were compelled to
make our fire with the buffaloe dung which I found answered the purpose
very well. we cooked and eat all the meat we had except a small peice
of buffaloe meat which was a little tainted. after dinner we passed the
river and took our course through a level and beautifull plain on the
N. side. the country has now become level, the river bottoms wide and
the adjoining plains but little elivated above them; the banks of the
river are not usually more than from 3 to four feet yet it dose not
appear ever to overflow them. we found no timber untill we had traveled
12 miles further when we arrived at a clump of large cottonwood trees
in a beautifull and extensive bottom of the river about 10 miles below
the foot of the rocky mountains where this river enters them; as I
could see from hence very distinctly where the river entered the
mountains and the bearing of this point being S of West I thought it
unnecessary to proceed further and therefore encamped resolving to rest
ourselves and horses a couple of days at this place and take the
necessary observations. this plain on which we are is very high; the
rocky mountains to the S. W. of us appear but low from their base up
yet are partially covered with snow nearly to their bases. there is no
timber on those mountains within our view; they are very irregular and
broken in their form and seem to be composed principally of clay with
but little rock or stone. the river appears to possess at least double
the vollume of water which it had where we first arrived on it below;
this no doubt proceeds from the avapparation caused by the sun and air
and the absorbing of the earth in it's passage through these open
plains. The course of the mountains still continues from S. E. to N. W.
the front rang appears to terminate abrubtly about 35 ms. to the N. W.
Of us. I believe that the waters of the Suskashawan apporoach the
borders of this river very nearly. I now have lost all hope of the
waters of this river ever extending to N Latitude 50° though I still hope
and think it more than probable that both white earth river and milk
river extend as far north as latd. 50°--we have seen but few buffaloe
today no deer and very few Antelopes; gam of every discription is
extreemly wild which induces me to beleive that the indians are now, or
have been lately in this neighbourhood. we wounded a buffaloe this
evening but our horses were so much fatiegued that we were unable to
pursue it with success.-
[Lewis, July 23, 1806]
Wednesdy July 23rd 1806
I dispatched Drewyer an Joseph fields this morning to hunt. I directed
Drewyer who went up the river to observe it's bearings and the point at
which it entered the mountains, this he did and on his return I
observed the point at which the river entered to bear S 50° W. distant
about ten miles the river making a considerable bend to the West just
above us.
both these hunters returned unsuccessful and reported that there was no
game nor the appearance of any in this quarter. we now rendered the
grease from our tainted meat and made some mush of cows with a part of
it, reserving as much meal of cows and grease as would afford us one
more meal tomorrow. Drewyer informed us that there was an indian camp
of eleven leather lodges which appeared to have been abandoned about 10
days, the poles only of the lodges remained. we are confident that
these are the Minnetares of fort de prarie and suspect that they are
probably at this time somewhere on the main branch of Maria's river on
the borders of the buffaloe, under this impression I shall not strike
that river on my return untill about the mouth of the North branch.
near this place I observe a number of the whistleing squirrel of the
speceis common to the plains and country watered by the Columbia river,
this is the first instance in which I have found this squirrel in the
plains of the Missouri. the Cottonwood of this place is also of the
speceis common to the Columbia. we have a delightfull pasture for our
horses where we are.
The clouds obscured the moon and put an end to further observation. the
rok which makes its appearance on this part of the river is of a white
colour fine grit and makes excellet whetstones; it lies in horizontal
stratas and makes it's appearance in the bluffs of the river near their
base. we indeavoured to take some fish but took only one small trout.
Musquetoes uncommonly large and reather troublesome.
[Lewis, July 24, 1806]
Thursday July 24th 1806.
At 8 A.M. the sun made it's appearance for a few minutes and I took
it's altitude but it shortly after clouded up again and continued to
rain the ballance of the day I was therefore unable to complete the
observations I wished to take at this place. I determined to remain
another day in the hope of it's being fair. we have still a little
bread of cows remaining of which we made a kettle of mush which
together with a few pigeons that we were fortunate enough to kill
served us with food for this day. I sent the hunters out but they
shortly returned without having killed anything and declared that it
was useless to hunt within 6 or 8 miles of this place that there was no
appearance of game within that distance. the air has become extreemly
cold which in addition to the wind and rain renders our situation
extreemly unpleasant. several wolves visited our camp today, I fired on
and wounded one of them very badly. the small speceis of wolf barks
like a dog, they frequently salute us with this note as we pass through
the plains.
[Lewis, July 25, 1806]
Friday July 25th 1806.
The weather still continues cold cloudy and rainy, the wind also has
blown all day with more than usual violence from the N. W. this morning
we eat the last of our birds and cows, I therefore directed Drewyer and
J. Fields to take a couple of the horses and proceed to the S. E. as
far as the main branch of Maria's river which I expected was at no
great distance and indeavour to kill some meat; they set out
immediately and I remained in camp with R. Fields to avail myself of
every opportunity to make my observations should any offer, but it
continued to rain and I did not see the sun through the whole course of
the day R. Fields and myself killed nine pigeons which lit in the trees
near our camp on these we dined. late in the evening Drewyer and J.
Fields returned the former had killed a fine buck on which we now fared
sumptuously. they informed me that it was about 10 miles to the main
branch of Maria's River, that the vally formed by the river in that
quarter was wide extensive and level with a considerable quantity
timber; here they found some wintering camps of the natives and a great
number of others of a more recent date or that had from appearance been
evacuated about 6 weeks; we consider ourselves extreemly fortunate in
not having met with these people. I determined that if tomorrow
continued cloudy to set out as I now begin to be apprehensive that I
shall not reach the United States within this season unless I make
every exertion in my power which I shall certainly not omit when once I
leave this place which I shall do with much reluctance without having
obtained the necessary data to establish it's longitude-as if the fates
were against me my chronometer from some unknown cause stoped today,
when I set her to going she went as usual.
[Lewis, July 26, 1806]
Saturday July 26th 1806.
The moring was cloudy and continued to rain as usual, tho the cloud
seemed somewhat thiner. I therefore posponed seting out untill 9 A.M.
in the hope that it would clear off but finding the contrary result I
had the horses caught and we set out biding a lasting adieu to this
place which I now call camp disappointment. I took my rout through the
open plains S. E. 5 ms. passing a small creek at 2 ms. from the
mountains wher I changed my direction to S. 75 E. for 7 ms. further and
struck a principal branch of Maria's river 65 yds. wide, not very deep,
I passed this stream to it's south side and continued down it 2 ms. on
the last mentioned course when another branch of nearly the same
dignity formed a junction with it, coming from the S. W. this last is
shallow and rappid; has the appearance of overflowing it's banks
frequently and discharging vast torrants of water at certain seasons of
the year. the beds of both these streams are pebbly particularly the S.
branch. the water of the N. branch is very terbid while that of the S.
branch is nearly clear not withstanding the late rains. I passed the S.
branch just above it's junction and continued down the river which runs
a little to the N of E 1 ms. and halted to dine and graize our horses
here I found some indian lodges which appeared to have been inhabited
last winter in a large and fertile bottom well stocked with cottonwood
timber. the rose honeysuckle and redberry bushes constitute the
undergrowth there being but little willow in this quarter both these
rivers abov their junction appeared to be well stocked with timber or
comparitively so with other parts of this country. here it is that we
find the three species of cottonwood which I have remarked in my voyage
assembled together that speceis common to the Columbia I have never
before seen on the waters of the Missouri, also the narrow and broad
leafed speceis. during our stay at this place R. Fields killed a buck a
part of the flesh of which we took with us. we saw a few Antelopes some
wolves and 2 of the smallest speceis of fox of a redish brown colour
with the extremity of the tail black. it is about the size of the
common domestic cat and burrows in the plains. after dinner I continued
my rout down the river to the North of Eat about 3 ms. when the hills
putting in close on the S side I determined to ascend them to the high
plain which I did accordingly, keeping the Fields with me; Drewyer
passed the river and kept down the vally of the river. I had intended
to decend this river with it's course to it's junction with the fork
which I had ascended and from thence have taken across the country
obliquely to rose river and decend that stream to it's confluence with
Maria's river. the country through which this portion of Maria's river
passes to the fork which I ascended appears much more broken than that
above and between this and the mountains. I had scarcely ascended the
hills before I discovered to my left at the distance of a mile an
assembleage of about 30 horses, I halted and used my spye glass by the
help of which I discovered several indians on the top of an eminence
just above them who appeared to be looking down towards the river I
presumed at Drewyer. about half the horses were saddled. this was a
very unpleasant sight, however I resolved to make the best of our
situation and to approach them in a friendly manner. I directed J.
Fields to display the flag which I had brought for that purpose and
advanced slowly toward them, about this time they discovered us and
appeared to run about in a very confused manner as if much allarmed,
their attention had been previously so fixed on Drewyer that they did
not discover us untill we had began to advance upon them, some of them
decended the hill on which they were and drove their horses within shot
of it's summit and again returned to the hight as if to wate our
arrival or to defend themselves. I calculated on their number being
nearly or quite equal to that of their horses, that our runing would
invite pursuit as it would convince them that we were their enimies and
our horses were so indifferent that we could not hope to make our
escape by flight; added to this Drewyer was seperated from us and I
feared that his not being apprized of the indians in the event of our
attempting to escape he would most probably fall a sacrefice. under
these considerations I still advanced towards them; when we had arrived
within a quarter of a mile of them, one of them mounted his horse and
rode full speed towards us, which when I discovered I halted and
alighted from my horse; he came within a hundred paces halted looked at
us and turned his horse about and returned as briskly to his party as
he had advanced; while he halted near us I held out my hand and
becconed to him to approach but he paid no attention to my overtures.
on his return to his party they all decended the hill and mounted their
horses and advanced towards us leaving their horses behind them, we
also advanced to meet them. I counted eight of them but still supposed
that there were others concealed as there were several other horses
saddled. I told the two men with me that I apprehended that these were
the Minnetares of Fort de Prarie and from their known character I
expected that we were to have some difficulty with them; that if they
thought themselves sufficiently strong I was convinced they would
attempt to rob us in which case be their numbers what they would I
should resist to the last extremity prefering death to that of being
deprived of my papers instruments and gun and desired that they would
form the same resolution and be allert and on their guard. when we
arrived within a hundred yards of each other the indians except one
halted I directed the two men with me to do the same and advanced
singly to meet the indian with whom I shook hands and passed on to
those in his rear, as he did also to the two men in my rear; we now all
assembled and alighted from our horses; the Indians soon asked to smoke
with us, but I told them that the man whom they had seen pass down the
river had my pipe and we could not smoke untill he joined us. I
requested as they had seen which way he went that they would one of
them go with one of my men in surch of him, this they readily concented
to and a young man set out with R. Fields in surch of Drewyer. I now
asked them by sighns if they were the Minnetares of the North which
they answered in the affermative; I asked if there was any cheif among
them and they pointed out 3 I did not believe them however I thought it
best to please them and gave to one a medal to a second a flag and to
the third a handkercheif, with which they appeared well satisfyed. they
appeared much agitated with our first interview from which they had
scarcely yet recovered, in fact I beleive they were more allarmed at
this accedental interview than we were. from no more of them appearing
I now concluded they were only eight in number and became much better
satisfyed with our situation as I was convinced that we could mannage
that number should they attempt any hostile measures. as it was growing
late in the evening I proposed that we should remove to the nearest
part of the river and encamp together, I told them that I was glad to
see them and had a great deel to say to them. we mounted our horses and
rode towards the river which was at but a short distance, on our way we
were joined by Drewyer Fields and the indian. we decended a very steep
bluff about 250 feet high to the river where there was a small bottom
of nearly 1/2 a mile in length and about 250 yards wide in the widest
part, the river washed the bluffs both above and below us and through
it's course in this part is very deep; the bluffs are so steep that
there are but few places where they could be ascended, and are broken
in several places by deep nitches which extend back from the river
several hundred yards, their bluffs being so steep that it is
impossible to ascend them; in this bottom there stand tree solitary
trees near one of which the indians formed a large simicircular camp of
dressed buffaloe skins and invited us to partake of their shelter which
Drewyer and myself accepted and the Fieldses lay near the fire in front
of the sheter. with the assistance of Drewyer I had much conversation
with these people in the course of the evening. I learned from them
that they were a part of a large band which lay encamped at present
near the foot of the rocky mountains on the main branch of Maria's
river one 1/2 days march from our present encampment; that there was a
whiteman with their band; that there was another large band of their
nation hunting buffaloe near the broken mountains and were on there way
to the mouth of Maria's river where they would probably be in the
course of a few days. they also informed us that from hence to the
establishment where they trade on the Suskasawan river is only 6 days
easy march or such as they usually travel with their women and childred
which may be estimated at about 150 ms. that from these traders they
obtain arm amunition sperituous liquor blankets &c in exchange for
wolves and some beaver skins. I told these people that I had come a
great way from the East up the large river which runs towards the
rising sun, that I had been to the great waters where the sun sets and
had seen a great many nations all of whom I had invited to come and
trade with me on the rivers on this side of the mountains, that I had
found most of them at war with their neighbours and had succeeded in
restoring peace among them, that I was now on my way home and had left
my party at the falls of the missouri with orders to decend that river
to the entrance of Maria's river and there wait my arrival and that I
had come in surch of them in order to prevail on them to be at peace
with their neighbours particularly those on the West side of the
mountains and to engage them to come and trade with me when the
establishment is made at the entrance of this river to all which they
readily gave their assent and declared it to be their wish to be at
peace with the Tushepahs whom they said had killed a number of their
relations lately and pointed to several of those present who had cut
their hair as an evidince of the truth of what they had asserted. I
found them extreemly fond of smoking and plyed them with the pipe
untill late at night. I told them that if they intended to do as I
wished them they would send some of their young men to their band with
an invitation to their chiefs and warriors to bring the whiteman with
them and come down and council with me at the entrance of Maria's river
and that the ballance of them would accompany me to that place, where I
was anxious now to meet my men as I had been absent from them some time
and knew that they would be uneasy untill they saw me. that if they
would go with me I would give them 10 horses and some tobacco. to this
proposition they made no reply, I took the first watch tonight and set
up untill half after eleven; the indians by this time were all asleep,
I roused up R. Fields and laid down myself; I directed Fields to watch
the movements of the indians and if any of them left the camp to awake
us all as I apprehended they would attampt to seal steal our horses.
this being done I fell into a profound sleep and did not wake untill
the noise of the men and indians awoke me a little after light in the
morning.-
[Lewis, July 27, 1806]
July 27th 1806 Sunday.
This morning at day light the indians got up and crouded around the
fire, J. Fields who was on post had carelessly laid his gun down behid
him near where his brother was sleeping, one of the indians the fellow
to whom I had given the medal last evening sliped behind him and took
his gun and that of his brothers unperceived by him, at the same
instant two others advanced and seized the guns of Drewyer and myself,
J. Fields seing this turned about to look for his gun and saw the
fellow just runing off with her and his brothers he called to his
brother who instantly jumped up and pursued the indian with him whom
they overtook at the distance of 50 or 60 paces from the camp sized
their guns and rested them from him and R Fields as he seized his gun
stabed the indian to the heart with his knife the fellow ran about 15
steps and fell dead; of this I did not know untill afterwards, having
recovered their guns they ran back instantly to the camp; Drewyer who
was awake saw the indian take hold of his gun and instantly jumped up
and sized her and rested her from him but the indian still retained his
pouch, his jumping up and crying damn you let go my gun awakened me I
jumped up and asked what was the matter which I quickly learned when I
saw drewyer in a scuffle with the indian for his gun. I reached to
seize my gun but found her gone, I then drew a pistol from my holster
and terning myself about saw the indian making off with my gun I ran at
him with my pistol and bid him lay down my gun which he was in the act
of doing when the Fieldses returned and drew up their guns to shoot him
which I forbid as he did not appear to be about to make any resistance
or commit any offensive act, he droped the gun and walked slowly off, I
picked her up instantly, Drewyer having about this time recovered his
gun and pouch asked me if he might not kill the fellow which I also
forbid as the indian did not appear to wish to kill us, as soon as they
found us all in possession of our arms they ran and indeavored to drive
off all the horses I now hollowed to the men and told them to fire on
them if they attempted to drive off our horses, they accordingly
pursued the main party who were drying the horses up the river and I
pursued the man who had taken my gun who with another was driving off a
part of the horses which were to the left of the camp, I pursued them
so closely that they could not take twelve of their own horses but
continued to drive one of mine with some others; at the distance of
three hundred paces they entered one of those steep nitches in the
bluff with the horses before them being nearly out of breath I could
pursue no further, I called to them as I had done several times before
that I would shoot them if they did not give me my horse and raised my
gun, one of them jumped behind a rock and spoke to the other who turned
arround and stoped at the distance of 30 steps from me and I shot him
through the belly, he fell to his knees and on his wright elbow from
which position he partly raised himself up and fired at me, and turning
himself about crawled in behind a rock which was a few feet from him.
he overshot me, being bearheaded I felt the wind of his bullet very
distinctly. not having my shotpouch I could not reload my peice and as
there were two of them behind good shelters from me I did not think it
prudent to rush on them with my pistol which had I discharged I had not
the means of reloading untill I reached camp; I therefore returned
leasurely towards camp, on my way I met with Drewyer who having heared
the report of the guns had returned in surch of me and left the Fieldes
to pursue the indians, I desired him to haisten to the camp with me and
assist in catching as many of the indian horses as were necessary and
to call to the Fieldes if he could make them hear to come back that we
still had a sufficient number of horses, this he did but they were too
far to hear him. we reached the camp and began to catch the horses and
saddle them and put on the packs. the reason I had not my pouch with me
was that I had not time to return about 50 yards to camp after geting
my gun before I was obliged to pursue the indians or suffer them to
collect and drive off all the horses. we had caught and saddled the
horses and began to arrange the packs when the Fieldses returned with
four of our horses; we left one of our horses and took four of the best
of those of the indian's; while the men were preparing the horses I put
four sheilds and two bows and quivers of arrows which had been left on
the fire, with sundry other articles; they left all their baggage at
our mercy. they had but 2 guns and one of them they left the others
were armed with bows and arrows and eyedaggs. the gun we took with us.
I also retook the flagg but left the medal about the neck of the dead
man that they might be informed who we were. we took some of their
buffaloe meat and set out ascending the bluffs by the same rout we had
decended last evening leaving the ballance of nine of their horses
which we did not want. the Feildses told me that three of the indians
whom they pursued swam the river one of them on my horse. and that two
others ascended the hill and escaped from them with a part of their
horses, two I had pursued into the nitch one lay dead near the camp and
the eighth we could not account for but suppose that he ran off early
in the contest. having ascended the hill we took our course through a
beatiful level plain a little to the S of East. my design was to hasten
to the entrance of Maria's river as quick as possible in the hope of
meeting with the canoes and party at that place having no doubt but
that they would pursue us with a large party and as there was a band
near the broken mountains or probably between them and the mouth of
that river we might expect them to receive inteligence from us and
arrive at that place nearly as soon as we could, no time was therefore
to be lost and we pushed our horses as hard as they would bear. at 8
miles we passed a large branch 40 yds. wide which I called battle
river. at 3 P.M. we arrived at rose river about 5 miles above where we h
ad passed it as we went out, having traveled by my estimate compared
with our former distances and couses about 63 ms. here we halted an
hour and a half took some refreshment and suffered our horses to
graize; the day proved warm but the late rains had supplyed the little
reservors in the plains with water and had put them in fine order for
traveling, our whole rout so far was as level as a bowling green with
but little stone and few prickly pears. after dinner we pursued the
bottoms of rose river but finding inconvenient to pass the river so
often we again ascended the hills on the S. W. side and took the open
plains; by dark we had traveled about 17 miles further, we now halted
to rest ourselves and horses about 2 hours, we killed a buffaloe cow
and took a small quantity of the meat. after refreshing ourselves we
again set out by moon light and traveled leasurely, heavy thunderclouds
lowered arround us on every quarter but that from which the moon gave
us light. we continued to pass immence herds of buffaloe all night as
we had done in the latter part of the day. we traveled untill 2 OCk in
the morning having come by my estimate after dark about 20 ms. we now
turned out our horses and laid ourselves down to rest in the plain very
much fatiegued as may be readily conceived. my indian horse carried me
very well in short much better than my own would have done and leaves
me with but little reason to complain of the robery.
[Lewis, July 28, 1806]
July 28th 1806 Monday.
The morning proved fair, I slept sound but fortunately awoke as day
appeared, I awaked the men and directed the horses to be saddled, I was
so soar from my ride yesterday that I could scarcely stand, and the men
complained of being in a similar situation however I encourged them by
telling them that our own lives as well as those of our friends and
fellow travellers depended on our exertions at this moment; they were
allert soon prepared the horses and we again resumed our march; the men
proposed to pass the missouri at the grog spring where rose river
approaches it so nearly and pass down on the S. W. side, to this I
objected as it would delay us almost all day to reach the point by this
circuetous rout and would give the enemy time to surprise and cut off
the party at the point if they had arrived there, I told them that we
owed much to the safety of our friends and that we must wrisk our lives
on this occasion, that I should proceed immediately to the point and if
the party had not arrived that I would raft the missouri a small
distance above, hide our baggage and march on foot up the river through
the timber untill I met the canoes or joined them at the falls; I now
told them that it was my determination that if we were attacked in the
plains on our way to the point that the bridles of the horses should be
tied together and we would stand and defend them, or sell our lives as
dear as we could. we had proceeded about 12 miles on an East course
when we found ourselves near the missouri; we heared a report which we
took to be that of a gun but were not certain; still continuing down
the N. E. bank of the missouri about 8 miles further, being then within
five miles of the grog spring we heared the report of several rifles
very distinctly on the river to our right, we quickly repared to this
joyfull sound and on arriving at the bank of the river had the
unspeakable satisfaction to see our canoes coming down. we hurried down
from the bluff on which we were and joined them striped our horses and
gave them a final discharge imbrarking without loss of time with our
baggage. I now learned that they had brought all things safe having
sustaned no loss nor met with any accident of importance. Wiser had cut
his leg badly with a knife and was unable in consequence to work. we
decended the river opposite to our principal cash which we proceeded to
open after reconnoitering the adjacent country. we found that the cash
had caved in and most of the articles burried therin were injured; I
sustained the loss of two very large bear skins which I much regret;
most of the fur and baggage belonging to the men were injured. the
gunpowder corn flour poark and salt had sustained but little injury the
parched meal was spoiled or nearly so. having no time to air these
things which they much wanted we droped down to the point to take in
the several articles which had been buried at that place in several
small cashes; these we found in good order, and recovered every article
except 3 traps belonging to Drewyer which could not be found. here as
good fortune would have it Sergt. Gass and Willard who brought the
horses from the falls joined us at 1 P.M. I had ordered them to bring
down the horses to this place in order to assist them in collecting
meat which I had directed them to kill and dry here for our voyage,
presuming that they would have arrived with the perogue and canoes at
this place several days before my return. having now nothing to detain
us we passed over immediately to the island in the entrance of Maria's
river to launch the red perogue, but found her so much decayed that it
was impossible with the means we had to repare her and therefore mearly
took the nails and other ironwork's about her which might be of service
to us and left her. we now reimbarked on board the white peroge and
five small canoes and decended the river about 15 ms. and encamped on
the S. W. side near a few cottonwood trees, one of them being of the
narrow leafed speceis and was the first of that kind which we had
remarked on our passage up the river. we encamped late but having
little meat I sent out a couple of hunters who soon returned with a
sufficient quantity of the flesh of a fat cow. there are immence
quantities of buffaloe and Elk about the junction of the Missouri and
Maria's rivers.--during the time we halted at the er.crance of Maria's
river we experienced a very heavy shower of rain and hail attended with
violent thunder and lightning.
[Lewis, July 29, 1806]
Tuesday July 29th 1806.
Shortly after dark last evening a violent storm came on from N. W.
attended with rain hail Thunder and lightning which continued the
greater part of the night. no having the means of making a shelter I
lay in the water all night. the rain continued with but little
intermission all day. I intend halting as soon as the weather proves
fair in order to dry our baggage which much wants it. I placed the two
Fieldses and Colter and Collins in the two smallest canoes with orderes
to hunt, and kill meat for the party and obtain as many Elkskins as are
necessary to cover our canoes and furnish us with shelters from the
rain. we set out early and the currant being strong we proceeded with
great rapidity. at 11 A.M. we passed that very interesting part of the
Missouri where the natural walls appear, particularly discribed in my
outward bound journey. we continued our rout untill late in the evening
and encamped on the N. E. side of the river at the same place we had
encamped on the 29th of May 1805. on our way today we killed 9 bighorns
of which I preserved the skins and skeletons of 2 females and one male;
the flesh of this aninmal is extreemly delicate tender and well
flavored, they are now in fine order. their flesh both in colour and
flavor much resembles mutton though it is not so strong as our mutton.
the eye is large and prominant, the puple of a pale sea green and iris
of a light yellowish brown colour. these animals abound in this quarter
keeping themselves principally confined to the steep clifts and bluffs
of the river. we saw immence hirds of buffaloe in the high plains today
on either hand of the river. saw but few Elk. the brown Curloo has left
the plains I presume it has raised it's young and retired to some other
climate and country. as I have been very particular in my discription
of the country as I ascended this river I presume it is unnecesssesary
here to add any-thing further on that subject. the river is now nearly
as high as it has been this season and is so thick with mud and sand
that it is with difficulty I can drink it. every little rivulet now
discharges a torrant of water bringing down immece boddies of mud sand
and filth from the plains and broken bluffs.-
[Lewis, July 30, 1806]
Wednesday July 30th 1806.
The rain still continued this morning it was therefore unnecessary to
remain as we could not dry our baggage I Consequently set out early as
usual and pursued my rout downwards. the currant being strong and the
men anxious to get on they plyed their oars faithfully and we went at
the rate of about seven miles an hour. we halted several times in the
course of the day to kill some bighorns being anxious to procure a few
more skins and skeletons of this animal; I was fortunate enough to
procure one other malle and female for this purpose which I had
prepared accordingly. seven others were killed by the party also 2
buffaloe one Elk 2 beaver with & a female brown bear with tallons 61/4
inches in length. I preserved the skin of this bear also with the
tallons; it was not large and in but low order. we arrived this evening
at an island about 2 ms. above Goodriches Island and encamped on it's
N. E. side. the rain continued with but little intermission all day;
the air is cold and extreemly disagreeable. nothing extraordinary
happened today
[Lewis, July 31, 1806]
Thursday July 31st 1806.
The rain still continuing I set out early and proceeded on as fast as
possible. at 9 A.M. we fell in with a large herd of Elk of which we
killed 15 and took their skins. the bottoms in the latter part of the
day became wider better timbered and abound in game. the party killed
14 deer in the course of the day without attempting to hunt but little
for them. we also killed 2 bighorns and 1 beaver; saw but few buffaloe.
the river is still rising and excessively muddy more so I think than I
ever saw it. we experienced some very heavy showers of rain today. we
have been passing high pine hills all day. late in the evening we came
too on the N. E. side of the river and took sheter in some indian
lodges built of sticks, about 8 ms. below the entrance of North
mountain creek. these lodges appeared to have been built in the course
of the last winter. these lodges with the addition of some Elk skins
afforded us a good shelter from the rain which continued to fall
powerfully all night. I think it probable that the minnetares of Fort
de Prarie visit this part of the river; we meet with their old lodges
in every bottom.-
[Lewis, August 1, 1806]
Friday August 1st 1806.
The rain still continuing I set out early as usual and proceeded on at
a good rate. at 9 A.M. we saw a large brown bear swiming from an island
to the main shore we pursued him and as he landed Drewyer and myself
shot and killed him; we took him on board the perogue and continued our
rout. at 11 A.M. we passed the entrance of Mussel shell river. at 1 in
the evening we arrived at a bottom on S. W. side where there were
several spacious Indian lodges built of sticks and an excellent
landing. as the rain still continued with but little intermission and
appearances seemed unfavorable to it's becomeing fair shortly, I
determined to halt at this place at least for this evening and
indeavour to dry my skins of the bighorn which had every appearance of
spoiling, an event which I would not should happen on any consideration
as we have now passed the country in which they are found and I
therefore could not supply the deficiency were I to loose these I have.
I halted at this place being about 15 ms. below Missel shell river, had
fires built in the lodges and my skins exposed to dry. shortly after we
landed the rain ceased tho it still continued cloudy all this evening.
a white bear came within 50 paces of our camp before we perceived it;
it stood erect on it's hinder feet and looked at us with much apparent
unconsern, we seized our guns which are always by us and several of us
fired at it and killed it. it was a female in fine order, we fleesed it
and extracted several gallons of oil. this speceis of bar are rearly as
poor at this season of the year as the common black bear nor are they
ever as fat as the black bear is found in winter; as they feed
principally on flesh, like the wolf, they are most fatt when they can
procure a sufficiency of food without rispect to the season of the
year. the oil of this bear is much harder than that of the black bear
being nearly as much so as the lard of a hog. the flesh is by no means
as agreeable as that of the black bear, or Yahkah or partycoloured bear
of the West side of the rocky mountains. on our way today we killed a
buck Elk in fine order the skins and a part of the flesh of which we
preserved. after encamping this evening the hunters killed 4 deer and a
beaver. The Elk are now in fine order particularly the males. their
horns have obtained their full growth but have not yet shed the velvet
or skin which covers them. the does are found in large herds with their
young and a few young bucks with them. the old bucks yet herd together
in parties of two to 7 or 8.-
[Lewis, August 2, 1806]
Saturday August 2cd 1806.
The morning proved fair and I determined to remain all day and dry the
baggage and give the men an opportunity to dry and air their skins and
furr. had the powder parched meal and every article which wanted drying
exposed to the sun. the day proved warm fair and favourable for our
purpose. I permitted the Fieldses to go on a few miles to hunt. by
evening we had dryed our baggage and repacked it in readiness to load
and set out early in the morning. the river fell 18 inches since
yesterday evening. the hunters killed several deer in the course of the
day. nothing remarkable took place today. we are all extreemly anxious
to reach the entrance of the Yellowstone river where we expect to join
Capt. Clark and party.
[Lewis, August 3, 1806]
Saturday August 3rd 1806.
I arrose early this morning and had the perogue and canoes loaded and
set out at half after 6 A.M. we soon passed the canoe of Colter and
Collins who were on shore hunting, the men hailed them but received no
answer we proceeded, and shortly after overtook J. and R. Fields who
had killed 25 deer since they left us yesterday; deer are very abundant
in the timbered bottoms of the river and extreemly gentle. we did not
halt today to cook and dine as usual having directed that in future the
party should cook as much meat in the evening after encamping as would
be sufficient to serve them the next day; by this means we forward our
journey at least 12 or 15 miles Pr. day. we saw but few buffaloe in the
course of this day, tho a great number of Elk, deer, wolves, some bear,
beaver, geese a few ducks, the party coloured covus, one Callamet
Eagle, a number of bald Eagles, redheaded woodpeckers &c. we encamped
this evening on N. E. side of the river 2 ms. above our encampment of
the 12th of May 1805 soon after we encamp Drewyer killed a fat doe. the
Fieldses arrived at dark with the flesh of two fine bucks, besides
which they had killed two does since we passed them making in all 29
deer since yesterday morning. Collins and Colter did not overtake us
this evening.
[Lewis, August 4, 1806]
Monday August 4th 1806.
Set out at 4 A.M. this morning. permited Willard and Sergt. Ordway to
exchange with the Feildses and take their small canoe to hunt to-day.
at 1/2 after eleven O'Ck. passed the entrance of big dry river; found
the water in this river about 60 yds. wide tho shallow. it runs with a
boald even currant. at 3 P.M. we arrived at the entrance of Milk river
where we halted a few minutes. this stream is full at present and it's
water is much the colour of that of the Missouri; it affords as much
water at present as Maria's river and I have no doubt extends itself to
a considerable distance North. during our halt we killed a very large
rattlesnake of the speceis common to our country. it had 176 scuta on
the abdomen and 25 on the tail, it's length 5 feet. the scutae on the
tail fully formed. after passing this river we saw several large herds
of buffaloe and Elk we killed one of each of these animals and took as
much of the flesh as we wished. we encamped this evening two miles
below the gulph on the N. E. side of the river. Tonight for the first
time this season I heard the small whippoorwill or goatsucker of the
Missouri cry. Colter and Collins have not yet overtaken us. Ordway and
Willard delayed so much time in hunting today that they did not
overtake us untill about midnight. they killed one bear and 2 deer. in
passing a bend just below the gulph it being dark they were drawn by
the currant in among a parsel of sawyers, under one of which the canoe
was driven and throwed Willard who was steering overboard; he caught
the sawyer and held by it; Ordway with the canoe drifted down about
half a mile among the sawyers under a falling bank, the canoe struck
frequently but did not overset; he at length gained the shore and
returned by land to learn the fate of Willard whom he found was yet on
the sawyer; it was impossible for him to take the canoe to his relief
Willard at length tied a couple of sticks together which had lodged
against the sawyer on which he was and set himself a drift among the
sawyers which he fortunately escaped and was taken up about a mile
below by Ordway with the canoe; they sustained no loss on this
occasion. it was fortunate for Willard that he could swim tolerably
well.
[Lewis, August 5, 1806]
Tuesday August 5th 1806.
Colter and Collins not having arrived induced me to remain this morning
for them. the hunters killed four deer this morning near our
encampment. I remained untill noon when I again reimbarked and set out
concluding that as Colter and Collins had not arrived by that time that
they had passed us after dark the night of the 3rd inst. as Sergt
Ordway informed me he should have done last evening had not the
centinel hailed him. we continued our rout untill late in the evening
when I came too and encamped on the South side about 10 miles below
little dry river. on our way we killed a fat cow and took as much of
the flesh as was necessary for us. The Feildses killed 2 large bear
this evening one of them measured nine feet from the extremity of the
nose to that of his tail, this is the largest bear except one that I
have seen. we saw several bear today as we passed but did not kill any
of them. we also saw on our way immence herds of buffaloe & Elk, many
deer Antelopes, wolves, geese Eagles &c. but few ducks or prarie hens.
the geese cannot fly at present; I saw a solitary Pillacon the other
day in the same situation. this happens from their sheding or casting
the fathers of the wings at this season.
[Lewis, August 6, 1806]
Wednesday August 6th 1806.
A little after dark last evening a violent storm arrose to the N. E.
and shortly after came on attended with violent Thunder lightning and
some hail; the rain fell in a mere torrant and the wind blew so
violently that it was with difficulty I could have the small canoes
unloaded before they filled with water; they sustained no injury. our
situation was open and exposed to the storm. in attending to the canoes
I got wet to the skin and having no shelter on land I betook myself to
the orning of the perogue which I had, formed of Elkskin, here I
obtained a few hours of broken rest; the wind and rain continued almost
all night and the air became very cold. we set out early this morning
and decended the river about 10 miles below Porcupine river when the
wind became so violent that I laid by untill 4 P.M. the wind then
abaiting in some measure we again resumed our voyage, and decended the
river about 5 miles below our encampment of the 1st of May 1805 where
we halted for the night on the S. W. side of the river. after halting
we killed three fat cows and a buck. we had previously killed today 4
deer a buck Elk and a fat cow. in short game is so abundant and gentle
that we kill it when we please. the Feildses went on ahead this evening
and we did not overtake them. we saw several bear in the course of the
day.
[Lewis, August 7, 1806]
Thursday August 7th 1806.
It began to rain about midnight and continued with but little
intermission until 10 A.M. today. the air was cold and extreemly
unpleasant. we set out early resolving if possible to reach the
Yelowstone river today which was at the distance of 83 ms. from our
encampment of the last evening; the currant favoured our progress being
more rapid than yesterday, the men plyed their oars faithfully and we
went at a good rate. at 8 A.M. we passed the entrance of Marthy's river
which has changed it's entrance since we passed it last year, falling
in at preasent about a quarter of a mile lower down. at or just below
the entrance of this river we meet with the first appearance of Coal
birnt hills and pumicestone, these appearances seem to be coextensive.
here it is also that we find the first Elm and dwarf cedar on the
bluffs, the ash first appears in the instance of one solletary tree at
the Ash rapid, about the Elk rapid and from thence down we occasionly
meet with it scattered through the bottoms but it is generally small.
from Marthy's river to Milk river on the N. E. side there is a most
beautifull level plain country; the soil is much more fertile here than
above. we overtook the Feildses at noon. they had killed 2 bear and
seen 6 others, we saw and fired on two from our perogue but killed
neither of them. these bear resort the river where they lie in wate at
the crossing places of the game for the Elk and weak cattle; when they
procure a subject of either they lie by the carcase and keep the wolves
off untill they devour it. the bear appear to be very abundant on this
part of the river. we saw a number of buffaloe Elk &c as we passed but
did not detain to kill any of them. we also saw an unusual flight of
white gulls about the size of a pigeon with the top of their heads
black. at 4 P.M. we arrived at the entrance of the Yellowstone river. I
landed at the point and found that Capt. Clark had been encamped at
this place and from appearances had left it about 7 or 8 days. I found
a paper on a pole at the point which mearly contained my name in the
hand wrighting of Capt. C. we also found the remnant of a note which
had been attatched to a peace of Elk's horns in the camp; from this
fragment I learned that game was scarce at the point and musquetoes
troublesome which were the reasons given for his going on; I also
learnt that he intended halting a few miles below where he intended
waiting my arrival. I now wrote a note directed to Colter and Collins
provided they were behind, ordering them to come on without loss of
time; this note I wraped in leather and attatced onto the same pole
which Capt. C. had planted at the point; this being done I instantly
reimbarked and decended the river in the hope of reaching Capt. C's
camp before night. about 7 miles below the point on the S. W. shore I
saw some meat that had been lately fleased and hung on a pole; I
directed Sergt. Ordway to go on shore examine the place; on his return
he reported that he saw the tracks of two men which appeared so resent
that he beleived they had been there today, the fire he found at the
plce was blaizing and appeared to have been mended up afresh or within
the course of an hour past. he found at this place a part of a Chinnook
hat which my men recognized as the hat of Gibson; from these
circumstances we included that Capt. C's camp could not be distant and
pursued our rout untill dark with the hope of reaching his camp in this
however we were disappointed and night coming on compelled us to encamp
on the N. E. shore in the next bottom above our encampment of the 23rd
and 24th of April 1805. as we came too a herd of buffaloe assembled on
the shore of which we killed a fat cow.-
[Lewis, August 8, 1806]
Friday August 8th 1806.
Beleiving from the recent appearances about the fire which we past last
evening that Capt Clark could be at no great distance below I set out
early; the wind heard from the N. E. but by the force of the oars and
currant we traveled at a good rate untill 10 A.M. by which time we
reached the center of the beaver bends about 8 ms. by water and 3 by
land above the entrance of White earth river. not finding Capt. Clark I
knew not what calculation to make with rispect to his halting and
therefore determined to proceed as tho he was not before me and leave
the rest to the chapter of accedents. at this place I found a good
beach for the purpose of drawing out the perogue and one of the canoes
which wanted corking and reparing. the men with me have not had leasure
since we left the West side of the Rocky mountains to dress any skins
or make themselves cloaths and most of them are therefore extreemly
bare. I therefore determined to halt at this place untill the perogue
and canoe could be repared and the men dress skins and make themselves
the necessary cloathing. we encamped on the N. E. side of the river; we
found the Musquetoes extreemly troublesome but in this rispect there is
but little choise of camps from hence down to St. Louis. from this
place to the little Missouri there is an abundance of game I shall
therefore when I leave this place travel at my leasure and avail myself
of every opportunity to collect and dry meat untill I provide a
sufficient quantity for our voyage not knowing what provision Capt C.
has made in this rispect. I formed a camp unloaded the canoes and
perogue, had the latter and one of the canoes drawn out to dry, fleased
what meat we had collected and hung it on poles in the sun, after which
the men busied themselves in dressing skins and making themselves
cloaths. Drewyer killed 2 Elk and a deer this evening. the air is cold
yet the Musquetoes continue to be troublesome.-
[Lewis, August 9, 1806]
Saturday August 9th 1806.
The day proved fair and favourable for our purposes. the men were all
engaged dressing skins and making themselves cloathes except R & J.
Fields whom I sent this morning over the river with orders to proceed
to the entrance of the White earth river in surch of Capt. C. and to
hunt and kill Elk or buffaloe should they find any convenient to the
river. in the evening these men returned and informed me that they saw
no appearance of Capt. Clark or party. they found no game nor was there
a buffaloe.to be seen in the plains as far as the eye could reach.
nothing remarkable took place in the course of the day. Colter and
Collins have not yet overtaken us I fear some missfortune has happened
them for their previous fidelity and orderly deportment induces me to
beleive that they would not thus intentionally delay. the Perogue is
not yet sufficiently dry for reparing. we have no pitch and will
therefore be compelled to use coal and tallow.
[Lewis, August 10, 1806]
Sunday August 10th 1806.
The morning was somewhat cloudy I therefore apprehended rain however it
shortly after became fair. I hastened the repairs which were necessary
to the perogue and canoe which were compleated by 2 P.M. those not
engaged about this business employed themselves as yester-day. at 4 in
the evening it clouded up and began to rain which puting a stop to the
opperation of skindressing we had nothing further to detain us, I
therefore directed the vessels to be loaded and at 5 P.M. got under way
the wind has blown very hard all day but did not prove so much so this
evening as absolutely to detain us. we decended this evening as low
nearly as the entrance of white Earth river and encamped on the S. W.
side. the musquetoes more than usually troublesome this evening.
[Lewis, August 11, 1806]
Monday August 11th 1806.
We set out very early this morning. it being my wish to arrive at the
birnt hills by noon in order to take the latitude of that place as it
is the most northern point of the Missouri, enformed the party of my
design and requested that they would exert themselves to reach the
place in time as it would save us the delay of nearly one day; being as
anxious to get forward as I was they plyed their oars faithfully and we
proceeded rapidly. I had instructed the small canoes that if they saw
any game on the river to halt and kill it and follow on; however we saw
but little game untill about 9 A.M. when we came up with a buffaloe
swiming the river which I shot and killed; leaving the small canoes to
dress it and bring on the meat I proceeded. we had gone but little way
before I saw a very large grizzly bear and put too in order to kill it,
but it took wind of us and ran off. the small canoes overtook us and
informed that the flesh of the buffaloe was unfit for uce and that they
had therefore left it half after 11 A.M. we saw a large herd of Elk on
the N. E. shore and I directed the men in the small canoes to halt and
kill some of them and continued on in the perogue to the birnt hills;
when I arrived here it was about 20 minutes after noon and of course
the observation for the O's meridian Altitude was lost; jus opposite to
the birnt hills there happened to be a herd of Elk on a thick willow
bar and finding that my observation was lost for the present I
determined to land and kill some of them accordingly we put too and I
went out with Cruzatte only. we fired on the Elk I killed one and he
wounded another, we reloaded our guns and took different routs through
the thick willows in pursuit of the Elk; I was in the act of firing on
the Elk a second time when a ball struck my left thye about an inch
below my hip joint, missing the bone it passed through the left thye
and cut the thickness of the bullet across the hinder part of the right
thye; the stroke was very severe; I instantly supposed that Cruzatte
had shot me in mistake for an Elk as I was dressed in brown leather and
he cannot see very well; under this impression I called out to him damn
you, you have shot me, and looked towards the place from whence the
ball had come, seeing nothing I called Cruzatte several times as loud
as I could but received no answer; I was now preswaded that it was an
indian that had shot me as the report of the gun did not appear to be
more than 40 paces from me and Cruzatte appeared to be out of hearing
of me; in this situation not knowing how many indians there might be
concealed in the bushes I thought best to make good my retreat to the
perogue, calling out as I ran for the first hundred paces as loud as I
could to Cruzatte to retreat that there were indians hoping to allarm
him in time to make his escape also; I still retained the charge in my
gun which I was about to discharge at the moment the ball struck me.
when I arrived in sight of the perogue I called the men to their arms
to which they flew in an instant, I told them that I was wounded but I
hoped not mortally, by an indian I beleived and directed them to follow
me that I would return & give them battle and releive Cruzatte if
possible who I feared had fallen into their hands; the men followed me
as they were bid and I returned about a hundred paces when my wounds
became so painfull and my thye so stiff that I could scarcely get on;
in short I was compelled to halt and ordered the men to proceed and if
they found themselves overpowered by numbers to retreat in order
keeping up a fire. I now got back to the perogue as well as I could and
prepared my self with a pistol my rifle and air-gun being determined as
a retreat was impracticable to sell my life as deerly as possible. in
this state of anxiety and suspense remained about 20 minutes when the
party returned with Cruzatte and reported that there were no indians
nor the appearance of any; Cruzatte seemed much allarmed and declared
if he had shot me it was not his intention, that he had shot an Elk in
the willows after he left or seperated from me. I asked him whether he
did not hear me when I called to him so frequently which he absolutely
denied. I do not beleive that the fellow did it intentionally but after
finding that he had shot me was anxious to conceal his knowledge of
having done so. the ball had lodged in my breeches which I knew to be
the ball of the short rifles such as that he had, and there being no
person out with me but him and no indians that we could discover I have
no doubt in my own mind of his having shot me. with the assistance of
Sergt. Gass I took off my cloaths and dressed my wounds myself as well
as I could, introducing tents of patent lint into the ball holes, the
wounds blead considerably but I was hapy to find that it had touched
neither bone nor artery. I sent the men to dress the two Elk which
Cruzatte and myself had killed which they did in a few minutes and
brought the meat to the river. the small canoes came up shortly after
with the flesh of one Elk. my wounds being so situated that I could not
without infinite pain make an observation I determined to relinquish it
and proceeded on. we came within eight miles of our encampment of the
15th of April 1805 and encamped on N. E. side. as it was painfull to me
to be removed I slept on board the perogue; the pain I experienced
excited a high fever and I had a very uncomfortable night. at 4 P.M. we
passed an encampment which had been evacuated this morning by Capt.
Clark, here I found a note from Capt. C. informing me that he had left
a letter for me at the entrance of the Yelow stone river, but that
Sergt. Pryor who had passed that place since he left it had taken the
letter; that Sergt. Pryor having been robed of all his horses had
decended the Yelowstone river in skin canoes and had over taken him at
this encampment. this I fear puts an end to our prospects of obtaining
the Sioux Cheifs to accompany us as we have not now leasure to send and
enjage Mr. Heney on this service, or at least he would not have time to
engage them to go as early as it is absolutely necessary we should
decend the river.
[Lewis, August 12, 1806]
Thursday August 12th 1806.
Being anxious to overtake Capt. Clark who from the appearance of his
camps could be at no great distance before me, we set out early and
proceeded with all possible expedition at 8 A.M. the bowsman informed
me that there was a canoe and a camp he beleived of whitemen on the N.
E. shore. I directed the perogue and canoes to come too at this place
and found it to be the camp of two hunters from the Illinois by name
Joseph Dickson and Forest Hancock. these men informed me that Capt. C.
had passed them about noon the day before. they also informed me that
they had left the Illinois in the summer 1804 since which time they had
been ascended the Missouri, hunting and traping beaver; that they had
been robed by the indians and the former wounded last winter by the
Tetons of the birnt woods; that they had hitherto been unsuccessfull in
their voyage having as yet caught but little beaver, but were still
determined to proceed. I gave them a short discription of the Missouri,
a list of distances to the most conspicuous streams and remarkable
places on the river above and pointed out to them the places where the
beaver most abounded. I also gave them a file and a couple of pounds of
powder with some lead. these were articles which they assured me they
were in great want of. I remained with these men an hour and a half
when I took leave of them and proceeded. while I halted with these men
Colter and Collins who seperated from us on the 3rd ist. rejoined us.
they were well no accedent having happened. they informed me that after
proceeding the first day and not overtaking us that they had concluded
that we were behind and had delayed several days in waiting for us and
had thus been unable to join us untill the present momet. my wounds
felt very stiff and soar this morning but gave me no considerable pain.
there was much less inflamation than I had reason to apprehend there
would be. I had last evening applyed a poltice of peruvian barks at 1
P.M. I overtook Capt. Clark and party and had the pleasure of finding
them all well. as wrighting in my present situation is extreemly
painfull to me I shall desist untill I recover and leave to my frind
Capt. C. the continuation of our journal. however I must notice a
singular Cherry which is found on the Missouri in the bottom lands
about the beaverbends and some little distance below the white earth
river. this production is not very abundant even in the small tract of
country to which it seems to be confined. the stem is compound erect
and subdivided or branching without any regular order it rises to the
hight of eight or ten feet seldom puting up more than one stem from the
same root not growing in cops as the Choke Cherry dose. the bark is
smooth and of a dark brown colour. the leaf is peteolate, oval accutely
pointed at it's apex, from one and a 1/4 to 11/2 inches in length and
from 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch in width, finely or minutely serrate, pale
green and free from bubessence. the fruit is a globular berry about the
size of a buck-shot of a fine scarlet red; like the cherries cultivated
in the U States each is supported by a seperate celindric flexable
branch peduncle which issue from the extremities of the boughs the
peduncle of this cherry swells as it approahes the fruit being largest
at the point of insertion. the pulp of this fruit is of an agreeable
ascid flavour and is now ripe. the style and stigma are permanent. I
have never seen it in blume.
[Clark, July 3, 1806]
Thursday July 3rd 1806
we colected our horses and after brackfast I took My leave of Capt
Lewis and the indians and at 8 A M Set out with ____ men interpreter
Shabono & his wife & child (as an interpreter & interpretess for the
Crow Inds and the latter for the Shoshoni) with 50 horses. we proceeded
on through the Vally of Clarks river on the West Side of the river
nearly South 18 Miles and halted on the upper Side of a large Creek,
haveing Crossed 8 Streams 4 of which were Small. this vally is from 10
to 15 Ms. in width tolerably leavel and partially timberd with long
leaf & pitch pine, Some cotton wood, Birch, and Sweet willow on the
borders of the Streams. I observed 2 Species of Clover in this vally
one the white Clover Common in the Western parts of the U. States, the
other Species which is much Smaller than either the red or white both
it's leaf & blossom the horses are excessively fond of this Species.
after letting our horses graze a Sufficient length of time to fill
themselves, and taking dinner of Venison we again resumed our journey
up the Vally which we found more boutifully versified with Small open
plains covered with a great variety of Sweet cented plants, flowers &
grass. this evening we Crossed 10 Streams 8 of which were large Creeks
which comes roleing their Currents with Velocity into the river. those
Creeks take their rise in the mountains to the West which mountains is
at this time Covered with Snow for about 1/5 of the way from their tops
downwards. Some Snow is also to be Seen on the high points and hollows
of the Mountains to the East of us. our Course this evening was nearly
South 18 Ms. makeing a total of 36 miles today. we encamped on the N.
Side of a large Creek where we found tolerable food for our horses.
Labeish killed a Deer this evening. We Saw great numbers of deer and 1
bear today. I also observed the burring Squirel of the Species Common
about the quawmarsh flatts West of the Rocky Mountains. Musquetors very
troublesom.--one man Jo. Potts very unwell this evening owing to
rideing a hard trotting horse; I give him a pill of Opiom which Soon
releve him.
[Clark, July 4, 1806]
Friday July 4th 1806
I order three hunters to Set out early this morning to hunt & kill Some
meat and by 7 A.M. we Collected our horses took braekfast and Set out
proceeded on up the Vally on the West Side of Clarks river crossing
three large deep and rapid Creeks, and two of a Smaller Size to a Small
branch in the Spurs of the mountain and dined. the last Creek or river
which we pass'd was So deep and the water So rapid that Several of the
horses were Sweped down Some distance and the Water run over Several
others which wet Several articles. after Crossing this little river, I
observed in the road the tracks of two men whome I prosume is of the
Shoshone nation. our hunters joined us with 2 deer in tolerable order.
on the Side of the Hill near the place we dined Saw a gange of Ibex or
big horn Animals I Shot at them running and missed. This being the day
of the decleration of Independence of the United States and a Day
commonly Scelebrated by my Country I had every disposition to Selebrate
this day and therefore halted early and partook of a Sumptious Dinner
of a fat Saddle of Venison and Mush of Cows (roots) after Dinner we
proceeded on about one mile to a very large Creek which we assended
Some distance to find a foard to cross in crossing this creek Several
articles got wet, the water was So Strong, alto the debth was not much
above the horses belly, the water passed over the backs and loads of
the horses. those Creeks are emensely rapid has great decnt the bottoms
of the Creek as well as the low lands on each Side is thickly covered
with large Stone after passing this Creek I inclined to the left and
fell into the road on which we had passed down last fall near the place
we had dined on the 7th of Sept. and continued on the road passing up
on the W. Side of Clarks river 13 miles to the West fork of Sd. river
and Encamped on an arm of the same I Sent out 2 men to hunt, and 3 in
Serch of a foard to pass the river. at dark they all returned and
reported that they had found a place that the river might be passed but
with Some risque of the loads getting wet I order them to get up their
horses and accompany me to those places &c. our hunters killed 4 deer
to day. we made 30 ms. to day on a course nearly South Vally from 8 to
10 mes. wide. contains a good portion of Pitch pine. we passed three
large deep rapid Creeks this after noon
[Clark, July 5, 1806]
Saturday July 5th 1806
I rose at day light this morning despatched Labeash after a Buck which
he killed late last evening; and I with the three men who I had Sent in
Serch of a ford across the West fork of Clarks river, and examined each
ford neither of them I thought would answer to pass the fork without
wetting all the loads. near one of those places pointed out by Colter I
found a practiable foard and returned to Camp, ordered everything
packed up and after Brackfast we Set out passed 5 Chanels of the river
which is divided by Small Islands in passing the 6th & last Chanel
Colter horse Swam and with Some dificuelty he made the Opposite Shore,
Shannon took a different derection from Colter rained his horse up the
Stream and passed over very well I derected all to follow Shannon and
pass quartering up the river which they done and passed over tolerably
well the water running over the back of the 2 Smaller horses only.
unfortunately my trunk & portmantue Containing Sea otter Skins flags
Some curiosites & necessary articles in them got wet, also an esortment
of Medicine, and my roots. about 1 mile we struk the East fork which
had fallen and was not higher than when we passed it last fall we had
not proceeded up this fork more than 1 mile eer we struck the road by
which we passed down last fall and kept it at one mile we crossed the
river at a very good foard and continued up on the East Side to the
foot of the Mountain nearly opposite flour Crek & halted to let our
horses graze and dry our wet articles. I saw fresh Sign of 2 horses and
a fire burning on the side of the road. I prosume that those indians
are spies from the Shoshones. Shannon & Crusat killed each a deer this
morning and J. Shields killed a female Ibex or bighorn on the side of
the Mountain, this Animal was very meager. Shannon left his tomahawk at
the place he killed his deer. I derect him to return for it and join me
in the Vally on the East Side of this mountain. gave Shields permission
to proceed on over to the 1st Vally and there hunt untill my arival
this evening at that place, after drying every article which detained
us untill 1/2 past 4 P.M. we packed up and Crossed the Mountain into
the vally where we first met with the flatheads here I overtook Shields
he had not killed any thing. I crossed the river which heads in a high
peecked mountain Covered with Snow N. E. of the Vally at about 20
Miles. Shields informed me that the Flat head indians passed up the
Small Creek which we came down last fall about 2 miles above our
Encampment of the 4th & 5th of, Septr. I proceeded up this South branch
2 Miles and encamped on the E. side of the Creek, and Sent out several
men to examine the road. Shields returned at dark and informed me that
the best road turned up the hill from the creek 3 Miles higher up, and
appeared to be a plain beaten parth. as this rout of the Oat lash
shoots can be followed it will evidently Shorten our rout at least 2
days and as the indians informed me last fall a much better rout than
the one we came out. at all events I am deturmined to make the attempt
and follow their trail if possible if I can prosue it my rout will be
nearer and much better than the one we Came from the Shoshones, & if I
should not be able to follow their road; our rout can't possibly be
much wors. The hunters killed two deer this evening. The after part of
the day we only come 8 miles makeing a total of 20 Miles-. Shannon Came
up about Sunset haveing found his tomahawk.