S. 70° E. 9 Miles to a principal branch of Marias River 65 yards wide not
very deep at 7 mile. this last branch is Shallow and rapid about the
Size of the former from the S W. both of those Streams Contain a great
preportion of timber--here we find the 3 Specis of Cotton before
mentioned
N 80° E. 4 miles down Marias river and met with 8 Indians of the
Blackfoot nation with about 30 horses, those Indians professed
friendship and Set out with him and encamped together the night of the
26th of July, thy informed him that there was two large bands of their
nation in that quarter one of which would be at the enterance of Marias
river in a fiew days. they also informed that a french Trader was with
one of those bands, that they traded with the white people on the
Suskashwen River at 6 easy days march or about 150 miles distant from
whome they precured Guns Powder Lead blankets &c. in exchange for wolf
and beaver Skins. Capt Lewis gave them a Flag Meadel & Handkerchief
Capt. L. informed those Indians where he was from & where he had been
and his objects & friendly views &c. of which they appeared to be well
Satisfied.
"on the morning of the 27th at day light the indians got up and crouded
around the fire, Jo. Field who was on post had carelessly laid his gun
down behind him near where his brother was Sleeping. one of the Indians
Slipd. behind him and took his gun and that of his brother unperceived
by him, at the Same instant two others advanced and Seized the guns of
Drewyer and Capt Lewis who were yet asleep. Jo. Fields Seeing this
turned about to take his gun and Saw the fellow running off with his
and his brothers, he called to his brother who instantly jumped up and
prosued the indian with him whome they overtook at the distance of 50
or 60 paces Siezed their guns and rested them from him and R. Field as
he Seized his gun Stabed the indian to the heart with his knif who fell
dead; (this Cap L. did not know untill Some time after.) drewyer who
awoke at the first alarm jumped up and Seized & rested his gun from the
indian &c. Capt L. awoke and asked what was the matter Seeing Drewyer
in a Scuffle for his gun he turned to get his gun and found her gorn,
he drew a pistol from his holsters and prosued the Indian whom he Saw
in possession of his gun making off he presented the pistol and the
indian lay down the gun. the two Fields Came up and drew up to Shoot
the Indian which Capt L. forbid the indians then attempted to drive off
all the horses. Capt L. derected the men to fire on them if they
attempted to drive off the horses, and prosued two fellows who
Continued to drive of his horses he Shot the indian who had taken his
gun and then in possession of his horse through the belly, he fell and
raised on his elbow and fired at Capt L. the other made his escape into
a nitch out of Sight with his bow and arrows and as Capt L. guns was
empty and he without his Shot pouch he returnd. to the Camp where the 2
fields and Drewyer joind him having prosued the indians across the
river the were now in possession of the most of their own as well as
the indian horses and a gun Several bows & arrows and all the indians
baggage the gun & Some feathers and flag they took and burnt all the
other articles. and Saddled up a many of the best horses as they wished
with Some Spear horses, and Set out for to intersept the party at
Marias river and proceded on a little to the S. of East 112 Miles to
the Missouri at the Grog Spring. here they met with Canoes and party
decending joined them leaving their horses on the river bank, and
proceeded on to the enterance of Marias river opened the deposits,
found Several articles damaged. 3 Beaver traps could not be found, the
red perogue unfit for Service, from thenc they proceeded without delay
to the River Rochejhone See cources of Capt Lewis rout in next book."
at 2 P.M. Shannon & Gibson arived in the Skin Canoe with the Skins and
the greater part of the flesh of 3 Elk which they had killed a fiew
miles above. the two men Dixon & Handcock the two men we had met above
came down intending to proceed on down with us to the Manclans. at 3 P
M we proceded on all together having left the 2 leather Canoes on the
bank. a little below the enterance of (Jos) Shabonos Creek we Came too
on a large Sand point from the S. E. Side and Encamped. the wind blew
very hard from the S W. and Some rain. I washed Capt L. wound which has
become Sore and Somewhat painfull to him.
[Clark, August 13, 1806]
Friday 13th August 1806
the last night was very Cold with a Stiff breeze from the N. W. all
hands were on board and we Set out at Sunrize and proceeded on very
well with a Stiff breeze astern the greater part of the day. passed the
enterance of the Little Missouri river at 8 A.M. and arived at the
Enterance of Myry river at Sun Set and encamped on the N E Side haveing
came by the assistance of the wind, the Current and our oars 86 miles.
below the little bason I with Drewyer walked through the N. E point. we
Saw an Elk and Several deer. Drewyer wounded the Elk but could not get
him. I joined the perogus & party again in the bend below and proceeded
on. Some indians were Seen in a Skin Canoe below, they were decending
from an old Camp of theirs on the S. W. Side, those I Suppose to be
Some of the Minetaras who had been up on a hunting expedition, one
Canoe was left at their Camp. we had not proceeded far before I
discovered two indians on a high hill. nothing very remarkable took
place. the Misquetors are not So troublesom this evening as they have
been. the air is cool &c.
[Clark, August 14, 1806]
Thursday 14th August 1806
Set out at Sunrise and proceeded on. when we were opposit the Minetares
Grand Village we Saw a number of the Nativs viewing of we derected the
Blunderbuses fired Several times, Soon after we Came too at a Croud of
the nativs on the bank opposit the Village of the Shoe Indians or
Mah-har-ha's at which place I saw the principal Chief of the Little
Village of the Menitarre & the principal Chief of the Mah-har-has.
those people were extreamly pleased to See us. the Chief of the little
Village of the Menetarias cried most imoderately, I enquired the Cause
and was informed it was for the loss of his Son who had been killed
latterly by the Blackfoot Indians. after a delay of a fiew minits I
proceeded on to the black Cats Village on the N. E. Side of the
Missouri where I intended to Encamp but the Sand blew in Such a manner
that we deturmined not to continu on that Side but return to the Side
we had left. here we were visited by all the inhabitants of this
village who appeared equally as well pleased to See us as those above.
I walked up to the Black Cats village & eate some Simnins with him, and
Smoked a pipe this Village I discovered had been rebuilt Since I left
it and much Smaller than it was; on enquirey into the Cause was
informed that a quarrel had taken place and Lodges had removed to the
opposd Side. I had Soon as I landed despatched Shabono to the
Minetarras inviting the Chiefs to visit us, & Drewyer down to the lower
Village of the Mandans to ask Mr. Jessomme to Come and enterpret for
us. Mr. Jessomme arived and I spoke to the chiefs of the Village
informing them that we Spoke to them as we had done when we were with
them last and we now repeeted our envitation to the principal Chiefs of
all the Villages to accompany us and to the U States &c. &c. the Black
Cat Chief of the Mandans, Spoke and informed me that he wished to Visit
the United States and his Great Father but was afraid of the Scioux who
were yet at war with them and had killed Several of their men Since we
had left them, and were on the river below and would Certainly kill him
if he attempted to go dow.i. I indeavered to do away with his
objections by informig him that we would not Suffer those indians to
hurt any of our red Children who Should think proper to accompany us,
and on their return they would be equally protected, and their presents
which would be very liberal, with themselves, Conveyed to their own
Country at the expence of the U. States &c. &c. The chief promised us
Some corn tomorrow. after the Council I directed the Canoes to cross
the river to a brook opposit where we Should be under the wind and in a
plain where we would be Clear of musquetors & after Crossing the Chief
of the Mah har has told me if I would Send with him he would let me
have some corn. I directed Sergt Gass & 2 men to accompany him to his
Village, they Soon returned loaded with Corn. the Chief and his wife
also came down. I gave his wife a fiew Needles &c.--The Great Chif of
all the Menitarres the one eye Came to Camp also Several other Chiefs
of the different Villages. I assembled all the Chiefs on a leavel Spot
on the band and Spoke to them & see next book.
[Clark, August 15, 1806]
Thursday August 15th 1806 Continued Mandans Vilg
after assembling the Chiefs and Smokeing one pipe, I informed them that
I Still Spoke the Same words which we had Spoken to them when we first
arived in their Country in the fall of 1804. we then envited them to
visit their great father the president of the U. States and to hear his
own Councils and receive his Gifts from his own hands as also See the
population of a government which Can at their pleasure protect and
Secur you from all your enimies, and chastize all those who will Shut
their years to his Councils. we now offer to take you at the expense of
our Government and Send you back to your Country again with a
considerable present in merchendize which you will recive of your great
Father. I urged the necessity of their going on with us as it would be
the means of hastening those Supples of Merchindize which would be Sent
to their Country and exchanged as before mentioned for a moderate price
in Pelteries and furs &c. the great Chief of the Menetaras Spoke, he
Said he wished to go down and See his great father very much, but that
the Scioux were in the road and would most certainly kill him or any
others who Should go down they were bad people and would not listen to
any thing which was told them. when he Saw us last we told him that we
had made peace with all the nations below, Since that time the Seioux
had killed 8 of their people and Stole a number of their horses. he
Said that he had opened his ears and followed our Councils, he had made
peace with the Chyennes and rocky mountains indians, and repieted the
same objecctions as mentioned. that he went to war against none and was
willing to receive all nations as friends. he Said that the Ricaras had
Stolen from his people a number of horses at different times and his
people had killed 2 Ricaras. if the Sieoux were at peace with them and
Could be depended on he as also other Chiefs of the villages would be
glad to go and See their great father, but as they were all afraid of
the Sieoux they Should not go down &c.
The Black Cat Chief of the Mandans Village on the North Side of the
Missouri Sent over and requested me to go over to his village which
envertation I axceptd and crossed over to his village. he had a parcel
of Corn about 12 bushuls in a pile in his lodge. he told me that his
people had but little corn part of which they had given me. after
takeing a Smoke he informed me that as the Sieoux were very troublesom
and the road to his great father dangerous none of this village would
go down with us. I told the Cheifs and wariers of the village who were
there present that we were anxious that Some of the village Should go
and See their great father and hear his good words & recve his
bountifull gifts &c. and told them to pitch on Some Man on which they
could rely on and Send him to See their Great father, they made the
Same objections which the Chief had done before. a young man offered to
go down, and they all agreeed for him to go down the charector of this
young man I knew as a bad one and made an objection as to his age and
Chareckter at this time Gibson who was with me informed me that this
young man had Stole his knife and had it then in his possession, this I
informed the Chief and directed him to give up the knife he delivered
the knife with a very faint apology for his haveing it in his
possession. I then reproached those people for wishing to Send Such a
man to See and hear the words of So great a man as their great father;
they hung their heads and Said nothing for Some time when the Cheif
Spoke and Said that they were afraid to Send any one for fear of their
being killed by the Sieux. after Smoking a pipe and relateing Some
passages I recrossed to our Camp-. being informed by one of our
enterpreters that the 2d Chief of the Mandans Comonly Called the little
Crow intended to accompany us down, I took Charbono and walked to the
Village to See this Chief and talk with him on the Subject. he told me
he had deturmined to go down, but wished to have a council first with
his people which would be in the after part of the day. I smoked a pipe
with the little Crow and returned to the boat. Colter one of our men
expressed a desire to join Some trappers who offered to become Shearers
with and furnish traps &c. the offer a very advantagious one, to him,
his Services Could be dispenced with from this down and as we were
disposed to be of Service to any one of our party who had performed
their duty as well as Colter had done, we agreed to allow him the
prvilage provided no one of the party would ask or expect a Similar
permission to which they all agreeed that they wished Colter every
Suckcess and that as we did not wish any of them to Seperate untill we
Should arive at St. Louis they would not apply or expect it &c. The
Maharha Chief brought us Some Corn, as did also the Chief of the little
village of the Menetarras on mules of which they have Several. The
evening is Cool and windy. great number of the nativs of the different
villages Came to view us and exchange robes with our men for their
Skins--we gave Jo Colter Some Small articles which we did not want and
Some powder & lead. the party also gave him Several articles which will
be usefull to him on his expedittion.--This evening Charbono informed
me that our back was scercely turned before a war party from the two
menetarry villages followed on and attacked and killed the Snake
Indians whome we had Seen and in the engagement between them and the
Snake indians they had lost two men one of which was the Son of the
principal Chief of the little village of the menitarras. that they had
also went to war from the Menetarras and killed two Ricaras. he further
informed me that a missunderstanding had taken place between the
Mandans & minetarras and had verry nearly come to blows about a woman,
the Menitarres at length presented a pipe and a reconsilliation took
place between them
[Clark, August 16, 1806]
Friday 16th August 1806
a cool morning. Sent up Sergt. Pryor to the mandan village, for Some
Corn which they offered to give us. he informed that they had more Corn
collected for us than our Canoes Could Carry Six load of which he
brought down. I thanked the Chief for his kindness and informed him
that our Canoes would not Carry any more Corn than we had already
brought down. at 10 A. M the Chiefs of the different villages came to
See us and Smoke a pipe &c. as our Swivel Could no longer be
Serveceable to us as it could not be fireed on board the largest
Perogue, we Concluded to make a present of it to the Great Chief of the
Menetaras (the One Eye) with a view to ingratiate him more Strongly in
our favour I had the Swivel Charged and Collected the Chiefs in a
circle around it and adressed them with great ceremoney. told them I
had listened with much attention to what the One Eye had Said yesterday
and beleived that he was Sincere & Spoke from his heart. I reproached
them very Severely for not attending to what had been Said to them by
us in Council in the fall of 1804 and at different times in the winter
of 1804 & 5, and told them our backs were Scercely turned befor a party
followed and killed the pore defenceless snake indians whom we had
taken by the hand & told them not to be afraid that you would never
Strike them again &c. also mentioned the ricers &c. The little Cherry
old Chief of the Menetarras Spoke as follows Viz: "Father we wish to go
down with you to See our Great Father, but we know the nations below
and are afraid of the Scioux who will be on the river and will kill us
on our return home. The Scioux has Stolen our horses and killed 8 of
our men Since you left us, and the Ricaras have also Struck us. we
Staid at home and listened to what you had told us. we at length went
to war against the Scioux and met with Ricaras and killed two of them,
they were on their way to Strike us. We will attend to your word and
not hurt any people all Shall be Welcom and we Shall do as you
direct-." The One Eye Said his ears would always be open to the word of
his great father and Shut against bad Council &c. I then a good deel of
Ceremony made a preasent of the Swivel to the One Eye Chief and told
him when he fired this gun to remember the words of his great father
which we had given him. this gun had anounced the words of his great
father to all the nations which we had Seen &c. &c. after the council
was over the gun was fired & delivered, they Chief appeared to be much
pleased and conveyed it immediately to his village &c. we Settled with
and discharged Colter. in the evening I walked to the village to See
the little Crow and know when he would be ready, took with me a flag
intending to give him to leave at his lodge but to my astonishment he
informed me he had declined going down the reason of which I found was
through a jellousy between himself and the principal Chief he refused a
flag & we Sent for Mr. Jessomme and told him to use his influn to
provail on one of the Chiefs to acompany us and we would employ him. he
informed us soon after that the big white Chief would go if we would
take his wife & Son & Jessoms wife & 2 children we wer obliged to agree
to do
[Clark, August 17, 1806]
Saturday 17th of August 1806
a Cool morning gave some powder & Ball to Big White Chief Settled with
Touisant Chabono for his Services as an enterpreter the pric of a horse
and Lodge purchased of him for public Service in all amounting to 500$
33 1/3 cents. derected two of the largest of the Canoes be fastened
together with poles tied across them So as to make them Study for the
purpose of Conveying the Indians and enterpreter and their families
we were visited by all the principal Chiefs of the Menetarras to take
their leave of us at 2 oClock we left our encampment after takeing
leave of Colter who also Set out up the river in Company with Messrs.
Dickson & Handcock. we also took our leave of T. Chabono, his Snake
Indian wife and their Son Child who had accompanied us on our rout to
the pacific Ocean in the Capacity of interpreter and interpretes. T.
Chabono wished much to accompany us in the Said Capacity if we could
have provailed the Menetarre Chiefs to dcend the river with us to the
U. States, but as none of those chiefs of whoes language he was
Conversent would accompany us, his Services were no longer of use to
the U States and he was therefore discharged and paid up. we offered to
convey him down to the Illinois if he Chose to go, he declined
proceeding on at present, observing that he had no acquaintance or
prospects of makeing a liveing below, and must continue to live in the
way that he had done. I offered to take his little Son a butifull
promising Child who is 19 months old to which they both himself & wife
wer willing provided the Child had been weened. they observed that in
one year the boy would be Sufficiently old to leave his mother & he
would then take him to me if I would be so freindly as to raise the
Child for him in Such a manner as I thought proper, to which I agreeed
&c.--we droped down to the Big white Cheifs Mandan Village 1/2 a mile
below on the South Side, all the Indians proceeded on down by land. and
I walked to the lodge of the Chief whome I found Sorounded by his
friends the men were Setting in a circle Smokeing and the womin Crying.
he Sent his bagage with his wife & Son, with the Interpreter Jessomme &
his wife and 2 children to the Canoes provided for them. after Smoking
one pipe, and distributing Some powder & lead which we had given him,
he informed me that he was ready and we were accompd to the Canoes by
all the Village Maney of them Cried out aloud. as I was about to Shake
with the Grand Cheifs of all the Villages there assembled they
requested me to Set one minit longer with them which I readily agreed
to and directed a pipe to be lit. the Cheifs informed that when we
first came to their Country they did not beleive all we Said we then
told them. but they were now Convinced that every thing we had told
them were true, that they Should keep in memory every thing which we
had Said to them, and Strictly attend to our advice, that their young
men Should Stay at home and Should no go again to war against any
nation, that if any atacted them they Should defend themselves, that we
might depend on what they Said, and requested us to inform their great
father. the also requested me to tell the Ricaras to Come and See them,
not to be afraid that no harm Should be done them, that they were
anxious to be in peace with them.
The Seeoux they Said they had no dependance in and Should kill them
whenever they Came into their Country to do them harm &c. I told them
that we had always told them to defend themselves, but not to Strike
those nations we had taken by the hand, the Sieoux with whome they were
at war we had never Seen on our return we Should inform their great
fathe of their conduct towards his faithfull red Children and he would
take Such Steps as will bring about a lasting peace between them and
his faithfull red children. I informed them that we should inform the
ricaras what they had requested &c. The Grand Chief of the Mineterres
Said that the Great Cheif who was going down with to see their great
father was a well as if he went also, and on his return he would be
fully informed of the words of his great father, and requested us to
take care of this Gt. Chief. we then Saluted them with a gun and Set
out and proceeded on to Fort Mandan where I landed and went to view the
old works the houses except one in the rear bastion was burnt by
accident, Some pickets were Standing in front next to the river. we
proceeded on to the old Ricara village the S E wind was so hard and the
waves So high that we were obliged to Come too, & Camp on the S W Side
near the old Village. (18 mils)
[Clark, August 18, 1806]
Monday 18th August 1806.
moderate rain last night, the wind of this morning from the S. E. as to
cause the water to be So rough that we Could not proceed on untill 8
a.m. at which time it fell a little & we proceeded on tho the waves
were yet high and the wind Strong. Saw Several Indians on either Side
of the river. at 9 A.M. I saw an Indian running down the beech and
appd. to be anxious to Speak to us I derected the Canoes to land. this
Indian proved to be the brother of the Chief we had on board and Came
down from his Camp at no great distance to take his leave of his
brother. the Chief gave him a par of Legins and took an effectunate
leave of his brother and we procedeed on haveing previously Sent on 2
canoes with hunters to kill Some meat at 2 P. M we overtook the Canoe
hunters, they had killed three deer which was divided and we halted and
Cooked Some dinner on the Sandbar. wind Still high and from the Same
point. The Chief pointed out Several places where he Said his nation
formerly lived and related Some extroadinary Stories of their
tredition. after Dinner we proceeded on, to a point on the N E. Side
opposit the remains of an old Mandan village a little below the
enterance of Chiss-che for River and the place we Encamped as we
assended this river 20th of October 1804 haveing come 40 miles today.
after landing which was a little before night the hunters run out into
the bottom and Killed four deer. The winds blew hard from the S. E. all
day which retarded our progress very much after the fires were made I
set my self down with the big white man Chiefe and made a number of
enquiries into the tredition of his nation as well as the time of their
inhabiting the number of Villages the remains of which we see on
different parts of the river, as also the cause of their evacuation. he
told me his nation first Came out of the ground where they had a great
village. a grape vine grew down through the Earth to their village and
they Saw light Some of their people assended by the grape vine upon the
earth, and Saw Buffalow and every kind of animal also Grapes plumbs &c.
they gathered Some grapes & took down the vine to the village, and they
tasted and found them good, and deturmined to go up and live upon the
earth, and great numbers climbed the vine and got upon earth men womin
and children. at length a large big bellied woman in climbing broke the
vine and fell and all that were left in the Village below has remained
there ever Since (The Mandans beleive when they die that they return to
this village) Those who were left on earth made a village on the river
below and were very noumerous &c. he Said that he was born in the
Village Opposit to our Camp and at that time his nation inhabited 7
villages as large as that and were full of people, the Sieoux and Small
pox killed the greater part of them and made them So weak that all that
were left only made two Small villages when Collected, which were built
near the old Ricaras village above. their troubles with the Scioux &
Pawnees or Ricaras Compelled them to move and build a village where
they now live.
he Said that the Menitarras Came out of the water to the East and Came
to this Country and built a village near the mandans from whome they
got Corn beens &c. they were very noumerous and resided in one village
a little above this place on the opposit Side. they quarreled about a
buffalow, and two bands left the village and went into the plains,
(those two bands are now known bye the title Pounch, and Crow Indians.)
the ballance of the Menetaras moved their village to where it now
Stands where they have lived ever Since-
[Clark, August 19, 1806]
Tuesday 19th of August 1806
Some rain last night and this morning the wind rose and blew with great
Violence untill 4 P. M and as our camp was on a Sand bar we were very
much distressd with the blows of Sand. I directed the hunters to
proceed on down the bottom and kill and butcher Some meat and if the
wind Should lie that I should proceed on down to their Camp &c. Capt.
Lewis'es wounds are heeling very fast, I am much in hope of his being
able to walk in 8 or 10 days-. at 4 P. M the wind Seased to blow with
that violence which it had done all day we Set out and proceeded on
down. the hunters which was Sent out this morning killed 4 Elk & 12
deer near the river we came too and brought in the most of the flesh
and proceeded on to a Sand on the N E Side and Encamped. the wind rose
and become very Strong from the S. E. and a great appearance of rain.
Jessomme the Interpreter let me have a piece of a lodge and the Squars
pitched or Stretched it over Some Sticks, under this piece of leather I
Slept dry, it is the only covering which I have had Suffecient to keep
off the rain Since I left the Columbia. it began to rain moderately
Soon after night. The Indians appear well Satisfyed with the party and
mode of proceedure. we decended only 10 miles to day Saw Some Elk and
buffalow on the Shore near where we Encamped. the Elk beginning to run.
the Buffalow are done running & the bulls are pore.
[Clark, August 20, 1806]
Wednesday 20th of August 1806
a violent hard rain about day light this morning. all wet except myself
and the indians. we embarked a little after Sun rise wind moderate and
ahead. we proceeded on at meridn. passed the enterance of Cannonball
river imediately above is the remains of a large Sieoux encampment
which appears to have been made this Spring. at 3 P M passed the
enterance of Wardepon River Saw great number of wolves on the bank Some
Buffalow & Elk, tho not so abundant as near the River Rochejhone.
passed the place where we left the last encampment of Ricaras in the
fall 1804 and encamped on a Sandbar from the N. E. Side, having made 8
miles only, the wind blew hard all day which caused the waves to rise
high and flack over into the Small Canoes in Such a manner as to employ
one hand in throwing the water out. The plains begin to Change their
appearance the grass is turning of a yellow colour. I observe a great
alteration in the Corrent course and appearance of this pt. of the
Missouri. in places where there was Sand bars in the fall 1804 at this
time the main Current passes, and where the current then passed is now
a Sand bar Sand bars which were then naked are now covered with willow
Several feet high. the enteranc of Some of the Rivers & Creeks Changed
owing to the mud thrown into them, and a layor of mud over Some of the
bottoms of 8 inches thick.
[Clark, August 21, 1806]
Thursday 21st August 1806
Musquetors very troublesom in the early part of last night and again
this morning I directed Sergt. Ordway to proceed on to where there was
Some ash and get enough for two ores which were wanting. Men all put
their arms in perfect order and we Set out at 5 a.m. over took Sergt.
ordway with wood for oars &c. at 8 A.M. Met three french men Comeing
up, they proved to be three men from the Ricaras two of them Reevea &
Greinyea wintered with us at the mandans in 1804 we Came too, those men
informed us that they were on their way to the Mandans, and intended to
go down to the Illinois this fall. one of them quit a young lad
requested a passage down to the Illinois, we concented and he got into
a Canoe to an Ore. Those men informd us that 700 Seeoux had passed the
Ricaras on their way to war with the Mandans & Menitarras and that
their encampment where the Squaws and Children wer, was Some place near
the Big Bend of this river below. no ricaras had accompanied them but
were all at home, they also informed us that no trader had arived at
the Ricaras this Season, and that they were informed that the Pania or
Ricara Chief who went to the United States last Spring was a year, died
on his return at Smoe place near the Sieoux river &c. those men had
nether powder nor lead we gave them a horn of powder and Some balls and
after a delay of an hour we parted from the 2 men Reevey & Grienway and
proceeded on. the wind rose and bley from the N. W. at half past 11
a.m. we arived in view of the upper Ricara villages, a Great number of
womin Collecting wood on the banks, we Saluted the village with four
guns and they returned the Salute by fireing Several guns in the
village, I observed Several very white Lodges on the hill above the
Town which the ricaras from the Shore informed me were Chyennes who had
just arived-. we landed opposit to the 2d Villages and were met by the
most of the men women and children of each village as also the Chyennes
they all appeared anxious to take us by the hand and much rejoiced to
See us return. I Steped on Shore and was Saluted by the two great
Chiefs, whome we had made or given Medals to as we assend this river in
1804, and also Saluted by a great number both of Ricaras & Chyennes, as
they appeared anxious to here what we had done &c. as well as to here
Something about the Mandans & Minetarras. I Set my self down on the
Side of the Bank and the Chiefs & brave men of the Ricaras & Chyennes
formed a Cercle around me. after takeing a Smoke of Mandan tobacco
which the Big white Chief who was Seated on my left hand furnished, I
informed them as I had before informed the Mandans & Menitarras, where
we had been what we had done and Said to the different nations in there
favour and envited Some of their Chiefs to accompany us down and See
their great father and receve from his own mouth his good Councils and
from his own hands his bountifull gifts &c. telling pretty much the
Same which I had told the mandans and menitarras. told them not to be
afraid of any nation below that none would hurt them &c. a man of about
32 years of age was intreduced to me as 1st Chief of the nation this
man they Call the grey eyes or ____ he was absent from the Nation at
the time we passed up, the man whome we had acknowledged as the
principal chief informed me that the Grey eyes was a greater Chief than
himself and that he had given up all his pretentions with the Flag and
Medal to the Grey eyes--The principal chief of the Chyenne's was then
introduced he is a Stout jolley fellow of about 35 years of age whome
the Ricaras Call the Grey Eyes I also told the ricaras that I was very
Sorrey to here that they were not on friendly terms with their
neighbours the Mandans & Menetarras, and had not listened to what we
had Said to them but had Suffered their young men to join the Sieoux
who had killed 8 Mandans &c. that their young men had Stolen the horses
of the Minetarras, in retaliation for those enjories the Mandans &
Menetarras had Sent out a war party and killed 2 ricaras. how could
they expect other nations would be at peace with them when they
themselves would not listen to what their great father had told them. I
further informed them that the Mandans & Menetaras had opened their
ears to what we had Said to them but had Staid at home untill they were
Struk that they were Still disposed to be friendly and on good terms
with the ricaras, they then Saw the great Chief of the Mandans by my
Side who was on his way to see his great father, and was derected by
his nation & the Menetaras & Maharhas, to Smoke in the pipe of peace
with you and to tell you not to be afraid to go to their towns, or take
the Birds in the plains that their ears were open to our Councils and
no harm Should be done to a Ricara. The Chief will Speak presently The
Grey eyes Chief of the ricaras made a very animated Speach in which he
mentioned his williness of following the councels which we had given
them that they had Some bad young men who would not listen to the
Councels but would join the Seioux, those men they had discarded and
drove out of their villages, that the Seioux were the Cause of their
Missunderstanding &c. that they were a bad peoples. that they had
killed Several of the Ricaras Since I Saw them. That Several of the
chiefs wished to accompany us down to See their great father, but
wished to see the Chief who went down last Sumer return first, he
expressed Some apprehention as to the Safty of that Chiefs in passing
the Sieoux. that the Ricaras had every wish to be friendly with the
Mandans &c. that every mandan &c. who chose to visit the ricares should
be Safe that he Should Continue with his nation and See that they
followed the Council which we had given them &c.--The Sun being very
hot the Chyenne Chief envited us to his Lodge which was pitched in the
plain at no great distance from the River. I accepted the invitation
and accompanied him to his lodge which was new and much larger than any
which I have Seen it was made of 20 dressed Buffalow Skins in the Same
form of the Sceoux and lodges of other nations of this quarter. about
this lodges was 20 others Several of them of nearly the Same Size. I
enquired for the ballance of the nation and was informed that they were
near at hand and would arive on tomorrow and when all together amounted
to 120 Lodges after Smokeing I gave a medal of the Small size to the
Chyenne Chief &c. which appeared to alarm him, he had a robe and a
fleece of fat Buffalow meat brought and gave me with the meadel back
and informed me that he knew that the white people were all medecine
and that he was afraid of the midal or any thing that white people gave
to them. I had previously explained the cause of my gveing him the
medal & flag, and again told him the use of the medal and the caus of
my giveing it to him, and again put it about his neck delivering him up
his preasent of a roab & meat, informing him that this was the medecene
which his Great father directed me to deliver to all the great Chiefs
who listened to his word and followed his councils, that he had done So
and I should leave the medal with him as a token of his cincerity &c.
he doubled the quantity of meat, and received the medal
The Big White chief of the Mandans Spoke at some length explainin the
Cause of the misunderstanding between his nation and the ricaras,
informing them of his wish to be on the most freindly termes &c. the
Chyennes accused both nations of being in folt. I told to them all that
if they eve wished to be hapy that they must Shake off all intimecy
with the Seioux and unite themselves in a Strong allience and attend to
what we had told them &c. which they promesed all to do and we Smoked
and parted on the best terms, the Mandan Chief was Saluted by Several
Chiefs and brave men on his way with me to the river--I had requested
the ricaras & Chyennes to inform me as Soon as possible of their
intentions of going down with us to See their great father or not. in
the evening the Great Chief requested that I would walk to his house
which I did, he gave me about 2 quarts of Tobacco, 2 beaver Skins and a
trencher of boiled Corn & beans to eat (as it is the Custom of all the
Nations on the Missouri to give Something to every white man who enters
their lodge Something to eat) this Chief informed me that none of his
Chiefs wished to go down with us they all wished to See the cheif who
went down return first, that the Chyennes were a wild people and were
afraid to go. that they Should all listen to what I had Said. I gave
him Some ribon to Suspend his Medal to and a Shell which the Snake
indians gave me for which he was very much pleased.
The interpreter informed me that the Cheifs of those villages had no
intention of going down. one the Cheifs of the Village on the island
talkd. of going down. I returned to the boat where I found the
principal Chief of the lower vilege who had Cut part of his hair and
disfigured himself in Such a manner that I did not know him, he
informed me the Sieux had killed his nephew and that Was in tears for
him &c. we deturmind to proceed down to the Island and accordingly took
the chief on board and proceeded on down to the isd village at which
place we arived a little before dark and were met as before by nearly
every individual of the Village, we Saluted them and landed imediately
opposit the town. The one arm 2d Cheif of this village whome we had
expected to accompany us down Spoke to the mandan Cheif in a loud and
thretening tone which Caused me to be Some what alarmed for the Safty
of that Cheif, I inform the Ricaras of this village that the Mandans
had opened their ears to and fold. our Councils, that this Cheif was on
his way to see their Great Father the P. of U S. and was under our
protection that if any enjorey was done to him by any nation that we
Should all die to a man. I told the Ricaras that they had told us lies,
they promised to be at peace with the mandans & Menetarras. that our
back was Scrcely turned before they went to war & Killd. them and Stole
their horses &c--The Cheif then envited me & the Mandan Chief to his
house to talk there. I accompanied him, after takeing a very
Serimonious Smoke the 2d Cheif informd. me that he had opened his ears
to what we had Said to him at the time we gave him the medal that he
had not been to war against any Natn. Since, that once been to See the
mandans and they were going to kill him, they had not killed the
Mandans, it was the Seeoux who killed them and not the ricaras, he Said
that the Mandan Cheif was as Safe as if he was in his own Vilg that he
had opened his ears and Could here as well as the mandans. I then
informd them what I had told the upper villages and we all become
perfectly reconsiled all to each other and Smoked in the most perfect
harmony we had invatations to go into their lodges and eate. I at
length went to the grand Chiefs Lodge by his particelar invitation, the
Mandan Chief Stuck close to me the Chief had prepd. a Supper of boiled
young Corn, beens & quashes of which he gave me in Wooden bowls. he
also gave me near 2 quarts of the Tobacco Seed, & informed me he had
always had his ears open to what we had Said, that he was well
convinced that the Seeoux was the caus of all the trouble between the
Mandans & them the Ricars had Stolen horses from the Mandan which had
been returned all except one which could not be got, this mischief was
done by Some young men who was bad. a long Conversation of explanations
took place between the Ricara & mandan Chiefs which appeared to be
Satisfactory on both Sides. the Chief gave a pipe with great form and
every thing appeared to be made up. I returned to the river & went to
bead. the Indians contd on board. made 22 miles today only.
[Clark, August 22, 1806]
Friday 22nd August 1806.
rained all the last night every person and all our bedding wet, the
Morning cloudy, at 8 A M. I was requested to go to the Chiefs, I walkd
up and he informed me that he Should not go down but would Stay and
take Care of the village and prevent the young men from doing rong and
Spoke much to the Same porpt of the Grey Eyes, the 2d Chief Spoke to
the Same and all they Said was only a repitition of what they had Said
before. the Chief gave me some Soft Corn and the 2d Chief Some Tobacco
Seed--the Interpreter Garrow informed me that he had been Speeking to
the Chiefs & warriers this morning and assured me that they had no
intention of going down untill the return of the Cheif who went down
last Spring was a year. I told the Cheifs to attend to what we had Said
to them, that in a Short time they would find our words tru and
Councils good. they promised to attend Strictly to what had been Said
to them, and observed that they must trade with the Sieoux one more
time to get guns and powder; that they had no guns or powder and had
more horses than they had use for, after they got guns and powder that
they would never again have any thing to do with them &c. &c. I
returned the Canoes & derected the men to prepare to Set out. Some
Chyennes from two Lodges on the Main S E. Shore Came and Smoked with me
and at 11 A. M we Set out haveing parted with those people who appeared
to be Sorry to part with us. at this nation we found a french man by
the name of Rokey who was one of our Engagees as high as the Mandans
this man had Spend all his wages, and requested to return with uswe
agreed to give him a passage down. I directed 2 guns to be fired. we
proceeded on passed the Marapa and the We ter hoo Rivers, and landed to
dry our bedding and robes &c which were all wet. here we delayed untill
6 P M. and dryed our things which were much Spoiled.
I derected 5 of the hunters to proceed on to Grouse Island a fiew miles
below and hunt on that island untill we arived, we proceded on to the
main N E Shore below the Island and encamped, the hunters joined us
without any thing. they Saw no game on the island. we made only 17
Miles to day. below the ricaras the river widens and the Sand bars are
emencely noumerous much less timber in the bottoms than above
The Chyenne's are portly Indians much the complections of the Mandans &
ricaras high Cheeks, Streight limbed & high noses the men are large,
their dress in Sumner is Simpelly a roab of a light buffalow Skin with
or without the hair and a Breach clout & mockerson Some ware leagins
and mockersons, their ornaments are but fiew and those are composed
principally of Such articles as they precure from other indians Such as
blue beeds, Shell, red paint rings of brass broaches &c. they also ware
Bears Claws about their necks, Strips of otter Skin (which they as well
as the ricaras are excessively fond of) around their neck falling back
behind. their ears are cut at the lower part, but fiew of them were
ornements in them, their hair is generally Cut in the forehead above
their eyes and Small ornimented plats in front of each Sholder the
remainder of the hair is either twisted in with horse or buffalow hair
divided into two plats over the Sholder or what is most common flow's
back, Their women are homely, corse feetured wide mouthes they ware
Simpially a leathe habit made in a plain form of two pieces of equal
length and equal weadth, which is sewen together with Sinues from the
tail to about half way from the hip to the arm, a String fastens the 2
pieces together over the Sholders leaveng a flap or lapells which fall
over near half way ther body both before and behind. those dresses
usially fall as low as mid leg, they are frequently ornemented with
beeds and Shells & Elk tuskes of which all Indians are very fond of.
those dresses are als frequently Printed in various regular figures
with hot sticks which are rubed on the leather with Such velosity as to
nearly burn it this is very handsom. they were their hair flowing and
are excessively fond of ornamenting their ears with blue beeds--this
nation peacbly disposed they may be estimated at from 350 to 400 men
inhabetig from 130 to 150 Lodges, they are rich in horses & Dogs, the
dogs Carry a great preportion of their light baggage. they Confess to
be at war with no nation except the Sieoux with whome they have ever
since their remembranc been on a difencive war, with the Bands of
Sieoux. as I was about to leave the Cheifs of the Chyennes lodge he
requested me to Send Some traders to them, that their country was full
of beaver and they would then be encouraged to Kill beaver, but now
they had no use for them as they could get nothing for their skins and
did not know well, how to catch beaver. if the white people would come
amongst them they would become acquainted and the white people would
learn them how to take the beaver-. I promised the Nation that I would
inform their Great father the President of the U States, and he would
have them Supplied with goods, and mentioned in what manner they would
be Supplied &c. &c.
I am happy to have it in my power to Say that my worthy friend Capt
Lewis is recovering fast, he walked a little to day for the first time.
I have discontinud the tent in the hole the ball came out
I have before mentioned that the Mandans Maharhas Menetarras &
Ricarras, keep their horses in the Lodge with themselves at night.
[Clark, August 23, 1806]
Saturday 23rd August 1806
We Set out very early, the wind rose & became very hard, we passed the
Sar-war-kar-na-har river at 10 A. M and at half past eleven the wind
became So high and the water So rough that we were obliged to put to
Shore and Continue untill 3 p. M. when we had a Small Shower of rain
after which the wind lay, and we proceeded on. Soon after we landed I
Sent Shields & Jo. & Reubin Fields down to the next bottom of timber to
hunt untill our arival. we proceeded on Slowly and landed in the
bottom. the hunters had killed three Elk and 3 Deer the deer were pore
and Elk not fat had them fleece & brought in. the Musqueters large and
very troublesom. at 4 P. M a Cloud from the N W with a violent rain for
about half an hour after the rain we again proceeded on. I observe
great quantities of Grapes and Choke Cheries, also a Speces of Currunt
which I had never before observed the leas is larger than those above,
the Currt. black and very inferior to either the yellow, red, or
perple--at dark we landed on a Small Sand bar under a Bluff on the S W.
Side and encamped, this Situation was one which I had Chosen to avoid
the Musquetors, they were not very troublesom after we landed. we Came
only 40 Miles to daye
My Frend Capt Lewis is recoverig fast the hole in his thy where the
Ball passed out is Closed and appears to be nearly well. the one where
the ball entered discharges very well-.
[Clark, August 24, 1806]
Sunday 24th August 1806
a fair morning we Set out as usial about Sunrise and proceeded on
untill 2 P M when the wind blew So hard from the N. W. that we could
not proceed came too on the S W. Side where we continued untill 5 P.M.
when the wind lay a little and we again proceeded on. at 8 a M. we
passed La-hoo-catts Island, opposit the lower point of this Island on
the S. W. Side near the top of the Bluff I observed a Stratea of White
stone I landed and examined it found it to be a Soft White Stone
containing very fine grit, when expd. to the Sun and become Dry this
Stone will Crumble the Clay of this bluff to the above and below is
remarkably Black. at half past 9 a.m. passed Good hope Island and at 11
a. m passed Caution Island a Short distance below this Island we came
too. Sent out a hunter he Saw Several deer they were very wild and he
returned without haveing killed any, the deer on this pt. of the
Missouri is mostly the Mule or black tail Species. we Saw only 6
buffalow to day the Sieoux have been laterly encamped on the river and
have Secured the most of the game opp. a large trail has passed on a
derection to the enterance of the Chyenne this probably is the trail of
a war party. at 5 P.M. we proceeded on a fiew miles and Encampd. on the
gouge of the lookout bend of 20 miles around and 3/4 through, a little
above an old tradeing house and 4 miles above of our outward bound
encampment of the 1st of October 1804, haveing made 43 miles to day.
[Clark, August 25, 1806]
Monday 25th August 1806
a cool clear morning a Stiff breeze ahead we Set out at the usial hour
and proceeded on very well. I derected Shields Collins Shannon and the
two fieldses to proceed on in the two small Canoes to the Ponia Island
and hunt on that Island untill we came on, they Set out before day
light The Skirt of timber in the bend above the Chyenne is not very
Considerable the timber is Scattered from 4 to 16 miles on the S W Side
of the river, and the thickest part is at the distance of 6 & 10 miles
from the Chyenne, a narrow bottom of Small Cotton trees is also on the
N E pt. at the distance of from 4 to 41/2 miles above the Chyenne
imediately at the enterance of that river I observe but fiew large
trees Some Small Growth and willows on the lower Side bottom on the
Missouri about 1/2 a mile and extends up the Chyen 1 mile about a
quarter of a mile above is a 2d bottom of Cotton timber, in the point
above the Chyenne there is a considerable bottom of about 2 miles on
that river and a large timbered bottom a Short distance above. at 8
A.M. we Came to at the mouth of the Chyenne to delay untill 12 to make
a meridian observation and derected 3 hunters to proced up this river
and hunt its bottoms untill twelve at which hou we Shall proceed on.
the hunters returned with 2 deer the Chyenne discharges but little
water which is much the colour of the missouri tho not So muddy I
observe a very eligable Situation on the bank of the Chyenne on it's
lower Side about 100 paces from it's enterance. this Situation is above
the high floods and has a perfect Command of each river we obtained a
Meridian altitude with the Sextt. and artificial Horizon 112° 50' 00"-
after which we proceeded on passed the pania Island and came up with
Shields and Collins they had killed two deer only at 3 P M we passed
the place where we Saw the last encampement of Troubleson Tetons below
the old ponia village on the S W Side. a very large timbered bottom on
the N. E. Side imedialely below the Pania Island. Latd. of Chyenne is
____ North. at Sunset we landed about the Center of a large bottom on
the N E Side a little below the enterance of No timber Creek and below
our Encampment of 29th of Septr. 1804. dreyer killed a deer after we
encamped. a little above our encampmt. the ricaras had formerly a large
village on each Side which was destroyed by the Seioux. there is the
remains of 5 other villages on the S W. Side below the Chyenne river
and one on Le ho catts Isld. all those villages have been broken up by
the Seioux. This day proved a fine Still day and the men played their
oars and we made 48 miles to day. The 2 fields and Shannon did not join
this evening which caused me to encamp earlier than usial for them. we
Saw no game on the plains today. the Tetons have been on the river not
long Since
[Clark, August 26, 1806]
Tuesday 26th of August 1806
a heavy dew this morning the hunters or Shannon & the 2 fields came up
at Sunrise and we Set out, they had killed only 2 Small deer one of
which they had eat at 8 passed the place the Tetons were encamped at
the time they attempted to Stop us in Septr. 1804, and at 9 A.M. passed
the enterance of Teton River. Saw Several black tail or Mule deer and
Sent out to kill them but they were wild and the hunters Could not get
a Shot at either of them. a fiew miles below the Teton river I observed
a buffalow Skin Canoe lying on the S Shore and a Short distance lower a
raft which induces me to Suspect that the Tetons are not on the
Missouri at the big bend as we were informed by the Ricaras, but up the
Teton river. at Meridn. we halted on the N E. Side opposit a handsom
leavel plain in which there is great quantities of plumbs which are not
yet ripe. we passed the enteranc of Smoke Creek and landed and
Continued two hours to Stop a leak in the perogue and fix the Stearing
oare, Saw great quantities of Grapes, they are black tho not thurerly
ripe. at 5 P M. we landed a Louisells fort on Ceder Island, this fort
is entire and every part appears to be in the Same state it was when we
passed it in Septr. 1804. I observed the appearance of 3 fires in the
houses which appeared to have been made 10 or 12 days past. we
proceeded on about 10 miles lower and encamped on the S. W. Side
opposit our outward bound encampment of the 21st of Septr. 1804, a fiew
miles above Tylors River. we had a Stiff breeze from the S. E. which
continued to blow the greater part of the night dry and pleasent. as we
were now in the Country where we were informed the Sceoux were
assembled we were much on our guard deturmined to put up with no
insults from those bands of Seioux, all the arms &. in perfect order.
Capt. L. is Still on the mending hand he walks a little. I have
discontinued the tent in the hole where the ball entered, agreeable to
his request. he tells me that he is fully Convinced that the wound is
sufficiently heeled for the tents to be discontinued. we made 60 miles
to day with the wind ahead greater part of the day-
[Clark, August 27, 1806]
Wednesday 27th Augt. 1806
Set out before Sunrise a Stiff breeze a head from the East proceeded to
the enterance of Tylors river on the S W Side and landed on a Sand bar
and Sent out the hunters to kill Some meat, our Stock of meat being now
exousted and this the most favourable place to precure a fresh Supply,
the hunters returned in 3 hours without haveing killed any thing. they
informed me that the bottoms were entirely beaten up and the grass laid
flat by the emence number of Buffalow which had been here a Short time
past. the deer had left the bottom. they Saw several Buffalow Bulls
which they did not think proper to kill as they were unfit for use.
here we discover the first Signs of the wild turkey. at 1 P M we halted
in the big bend and killed a fat buck elk near the river, which was
very timely as our meat was entirely exhosted. at 2 P. M we again
proceeded on down saw Several Buffalow Bulls on each Side of the river
also Some deer of the Common kind at 6 P.M. we herd the bellowing of
the Buffalow Bulls in the lower Isld. of the Big bend below the Gouge
which induced a belief that there was Some fat Cows, 5 men went out
from the 2 Small Canoes which was a little a head, and killed two Cows
one Bull and a Calf nether of them wer fat we droped the Perogue &
Canoes to the lower part of the Island near to where the buffalow was
killed and incamped haveing Come 45 Miles only to day. had the buffalow
butched and brought in and divided. My friend Capt Lewis hurt himself
very much by takeing a longer walk on the Sand bar in my absence at the
buffalow than he had Strength to undergo, which Caused him to remain
very unwell all night.
[Clark, August 28, 1806]
Thursday 28th of August 1806
Capt Lewis had a bad nights rest and is not very well this morning. we
Set out early and proceded on very well, Saw a number of Buffalow bulls
on the banks in different places. passd the 3 rivers of the Seioux pass
at 9 A.M. a Short distance below on the S W Side Sent out Reubin &
Joseph Feild to hunt for the Mule deer or the antilope neither of which
we have either the Skins or Scellitens of, we detected those two men to
proceed on down to the places we encamped the 16th & 17th of Septr.
1804 and which place the party had called pleasant Camp from the great
abundance of Game Such as Buffalow Elk, antilopes, Blacktail or mule
deer, fallow deer, common deer wolves barking Squirels, Turkies and a
variety of other animals, aded to which there was a great abundance of
the most delicious plumbs and grapes. this Situation which is a Short
distance above the enterance of Corvus Creek we are deturmined to delay
one day for the purpose of prcureing the sceletins of the Mule deer &
antilope, and Some barking Squirels. a fiew miles below the place the 2
Fields were Set on Shore we Set Drewyer and Labeech on Shore with the
Same directions which had been given to the 2 field's at 12 oClock we
Landed on the S W. Side at the Same Spot which we had encamped on the
16th and 17th of September 1804, and formed a Camp, Sent out Serjt.
Pryor, Shields, Go. Gibson, Willard and Collins to hunt in the plains
up Corvus Creek for the Antilope and Mule deer Sent out Bratten and
Frazier to kill the barking Squirel, and Gave directions to all of them
to kill the Magpye if they Should See any of them Several of the men
and the Squaws of the enterpreter Jessomme and the Mandan Chief went to
Some plumb bushes in the bottom and geathered more plumbs than the
party Could eate in 2 days, those blumbs are of 3 Speces, the most of
them large and well flavored. our Situation is pleasent a high bottom
thinly timbered and covered with low grass without misquitors. at 3 P.
M Drewyer and Labeech arived, the latter haveing killd. a Deer of the
Common Speceis only. in the evening late all the hunters returned
without any Speces of animal we were in want of, they killed 4 Common
deer and two buffalow a part of the best of the meat of those animals
they brought in. we precured two of the barking Squirels only. as we
Could not precere any Mule deer or antelope we concluded to Send the
hunters on a head early in the morning and delay untill 10 A. M to give
them time to hunt. I derected Shannon & Collins to go on the opposit
Side, and Labeech and Willard to proceed down on this Side at Some
distance from the river and join the party at the round Island &c. and
R. Field to proceed on Slowly in the Small Canoe to that place and take
in any thing which the hunters might kill. Made 32 miles to day
The hunters informed me that they Saw great numbers of Buffalow in the
plains. I Saw Several herds of those animals on either Side to day at a
distance.
[Clark, August 29, 1806]
Friday 29th August 1806
a cloudy morning the hunters proceeded on agreeable to their orders of
last night. I Sent out two men to the village of barking Squirels with
direcitions to kill Some of them. they after 2 hours returned and
informed me that not one of those Squirels were to be Seen out of their
holes. the Skins of the party which they had been dressing Since
yesterday being now completely dressed I derected all loose baggage to
be put on board the Canoes and at 10 A.M. Set out and proceeded on
passed the white river at 12 oClock and halted below the enterance of
Shannons Creek where we were joined by Labeech Shannon and Willard,
they had killed 2 common der but no Mule deer or antilopes. Willard
informed me that he Saw 2 antilopes but Could not get near to them.
Willard and Labiech waded white river a fiew miles above its enterance
and inform me that they found it 2 feet water and 200 yards wide. the
water of this river at this time nearly as white as milk. put Drewyer
out to hunt on the S W. Side and proceeded on below the round Island
and landed on the N. E. Side I with Several of the men went out in
pursute of Buffalow. the men killed 2 Bulls near me they were very por
I assended to the high Country and from an eminance, I had a view of
the plains for a great distance. from this eminance I had a view of a
greater number of buffalow than I had ever Seen before at one time. I
must have Seen near 20,000 of those animals feeding on this plain. I
have observed that in the country between the nations which are at war
with each other the greatest numbers of wild animals are to be found-
on my return to the river I killed 2 young deer. after Dinner we
proceeded down the river about 3 mile to the Camp of Jo. & Rubin fields
and Collins, and encamped on the S W. Side a little below our
encampment of 13th Septr. 1804, haveing made 20 Miles only. neither of
the hunters killed either a Black tail deer or an antilope. Jo. Fields
& Shields each killed a porcupin and two others of the hunters Killed
Deer, Drewyer did not join us untill 10 P.M. he informed that he Saw
some antilopes and Mule deer but Could kill none of them. Jo. Field
informed that he wounded female of the Mule deer a little below our
Camp late in the evening and could not prosue her I directed him to Set
out with 3 others and follow the Deer and get her if possible early in
the morning.
[Clark, August 30, 1806]
Saturday 30th of August 1806
Capt. Lewis is mending Slowly. we set out at the usial hour and
proceeded on very well a fiew miles Jo Field who was on the Shore being
behind I derected one of the Small Canoes with R. Fields & Shannon to
continue on the point of a Sand bar untill he corns up. I took 3
hunters and walked on the N E Shore with a view to kill Some fat meet.
we had not proceeded far before Saw a large plumb orchd of the most
deelicious plumbs, out of this orchard 2 large Buck Elks ran the
hunters killed them. I Stoped the Canoes and brought in the flesh which
was fat and fine. here the party Collected as many plumbs as they could
eate and Several pecks of which they put by &c. after a delay of nearly
2 hours we again proceeded on downwards passed 3 Small Islands and as
we were about to land at the place appointed to wait for the 2 fields
and Shannon, I saw Several men on horseback which with the help of a
Spie glass I found to be Indians on the high hills to the N E we landed
on the S. W. Side and I sent out two men to a village of Barking
Squirels to kill Some of those animals imedeatily after landing about
20 indians was discovered on an eminanc a little above us on the
opposite Side. one of those men I took to be a freinch man from his a
blanket Capoe & a handkerchief around his head. imediately after 80 or
90 Indian men all armed with fusees & Bows & arrows Came out of a wood
on the opposite bank about 1/4 of a mile below us. they fired of their
guns as a Salute we returned the Salute with 2 rounds. we were at a
loss to deturmin of what nation those indians were. from their hostile
appearance we were apprehensive they were Tetons. but from the Country
through which they roved we were willing to believe them eithe the
Yanktons, Ponars or Mahars either of which nations are well disposed
towards the white people. I deturmined to find out who they were
without running any resque of the party and indians, and therefore took
three french men who could Speak the Mahar Pania and some Seioux and in
a Small canoe I went over to a Sand bar which extended Sufficently near
the opposite Shore to Converse. imedeately after I Set out 3 young men
Set out from the opposite Side and Swam next me on the Sand bar. I
derected the men to Speak to them in the Pania and mahar Languages
first neither of which they could understand I then derected the man
who could Speak a fiew words of Seioux to inquire what nation or tribe
they belong to they informed me that they were Tetons and their Chief
was Tar-tack-kah-sabbar or the black buffalow This Chief I knew very
well to be the one we had seen with his band at Teton river which band
had attempted to detain us in the fall of 1804 as we assended this
river and with whome we wer near comeing to blows. I told those Indians
that they had been deef to our councils and ill treated us as we
assended this river two years past, that they had abused all the whites
who had visited them since. I believed them to be bad people & Should
not Suffer them to cross to the Side on which the party lay, and
directed them to return with their band to their Camp, that if any of
them come near our camp we Should kill them certainly. I lef them on
the bear and returned to th party and examined the arms &c. those
indians seeing Some Corn in the Canoe requested Some of it which I
refused being deturmined to have nothing to do with those people.
Several others Swam across one of which understood pania, and as our
pania interpreter was a very good one we had it in our power to inform
what we wished. I told this man to inform his nation that we had not
forgot their treatment to us as we passed up this river &c. that they
had treated all the white people who had visited them very badly; robed
them of their goods, and had wounded one man whome I had Seen. we
viewed them as bad people and no more traders would be Suffered to come
to them, and whenever the white people wished to visit the nations
above they would Come Sufficiently Strong to whip any vilenous party
who dare to oppose them and words to the Same purpote. I also told them
that I was informed that a part of all their bands were gorn to war
against the Mandans &c, and that they would be well whiped as the
Mandans & Menetarres & had a plenty of Guns Powder and ball, and we had
given them a Cannon to defend themselves. and derected them to return
from the Sand bar and inform their Chiefs what we had Said to them, and
to keep away from the river or we Should kill every one of them &c. &c.
those fellows requested to be allowed to Come across and make Cumerads
which we positively refused and I directed them to return imediately
which they did and after they had informed the Chiefs &c. as I Suppose
what we had Said to them, they all Set out on their return to their
Camps back of a high hill. 7 of them halted on the top of the hill and
blackguarded us, told us to come across and they would kill us all &c.
of which we took no notice. we all this time were extreamly anxious for
the arival of the 2 fields & Shannon whome we had left behind, and were
Some what consd. as to their Safty. to our great joy those men hove in
Sight at 6 P.M. Jo. Fields had killed 3 black tail or mule deer. we
then Set out, as I wished to See what those Indians on the hill would
act. we Steared across near the opposit Shore, this notion put them
Some agitation as to our intentions, some Set out on the direction
towards their Camps others walked about on the top of the hill and one
man walked down the hill to meet us and invited us to land to which
invitation I paid no kind of attention. this man I knew to be the one
who had in the fall 1804 accompaned us 2 days and is Said to be the
friend to the white people. after we passd. him he returned on the top
of the hill and gave 3 Strokes with the gun he had in his hand this I
am informed is a great oath among the indians. we proceeded on down
about 6 miles and encamped on a large Sand bar in the middle of the
river about 2 miles above our encampment on Mud Island on the 10th
Septr. 1804 haveing made 22 miles only to Day. Saw Several Indians on
the hills at a distance this evening viewing us. our encampment of this
evening was a very disagreable one, bleak exposed to the winds, and the
Sand wet. I pitched on this Situation to prevent being disturbed by
those Scioux in the Course of the night as well as to avoid the
Musquetors-. Killed 9 whistleing squirels.
[Clark, August 31, 1806]
Saturday 31st August 1806
all wet and disagreeable this morning. at half past 11 last night the
wind Shifted about to the N. W. and it began to rain with hard Claps of
thunder and lightning the Clouds passd over and the wind Shifted about
to the S W. & blew with great violence So much So that all hands were
obliged to hold the Canoes & Perogue to prevent their being blown off
from the Sand bar, however a Suden Squal of wind broke the cables of
the two Small Canoes and with Some dificuelty they were got to Shore
Soon after the 2 Canoes in which Sergt. Pryor and the indians go in
broke loose with wiser and Willard in them and were blown quite across
the river to the N E. Shore where fortunately they arived Safe, I Sent
Sergt. Jo Ordway with a Small perogue and 6 men to prosue the 2 Canoes
and assist them in effecting a landing, those 2 Canoes being tied
together 2 men could not manage them, the wind Slackened a little and
by 2 A.M. Sergt Ordway with willard wiser and the 2 Canoes returned all
Safe, the wind continud to blow and it rained untill day light all wet
and disagreeable. all the party examind their arms and put them in
order and we Set out and proceeded on down. Saw Several Indians on the
hills untill we passed the Island of Cedar 9 A. M the morning Cloudy
and wind down the the river at 4 P.M. passed the doome and lowest
village of Barking Squirels. this is also the highest up the river
where I observed the fox Squirel in the bottom above the doome on N. E
Side I killed 2 fox Squirels. we Saw no game of any kind to day as the
banks as usial. the Sun Shone with a number of flying Clouds. we
encamped on the N. E. Side a little below our Encampment of the 5th of
Septr. on no preserve Island haveing Come 70 Miles.
[Clark, September 1, 1806]
Monday 1st of September 1806
Musquitors very troublesom last night, we set out at the usial hour and
had not proceeded on far before the fog became So thick that we were
oblige to come too and delay half an hour for the fog to pass off which
it did in Some measure and we again proceded on R. Jo. Fields and
Shannon landed on an Ponceras Island to try to kill Some deer which was
Seen on the beech and the Canoes all passed them at 9 A. M we passed
the enterance of River Quiequur which had the Same appearance it had
when we passed up water rapid and of a milky white Colour about two
miles below the Quicurre, 9 Indians ran down the bank and beckened to
us to land, they appeared to be a war party, and I took them to be
Tetons and paid no kind of attention to them further than an enquirey
to what tribe they belonged, they did not give me any answer, I prosume
they did not understand the man who Spoke to them as he Spoke but
little of their language. as one Canoe was yet behind we landed in an
open Commanding Situation out of Sight of the indians deturmined to
delay untill they Came up. about 15 minits after we had landed Several
guns were fired by the indians, which we expected was at the three men
behind. I calld out 15 men and ran up with a fill deturmination to
Cover them if possible let the number of the indians be what they
might. Capt Lewis hobled up on the bank and formed the remainder of the
party in a Situation well calculated to defend themselves and the
Canoes &c. when I had proceeded to the point about 250 yards I
discovered the Canoe about 1 mile above & the indians where we had left
them. I then walked on the Sand beech and the indians came down to meet
me I gave them my hand and enquired of them what they were Shooting at,
they informed me that they were Shooting off their guns at an old Keg
which we had thrown out of one of the Canoes and was floating down.
those Indians informed me they were Yanktons, one of the men with me
knew one of the Indians to be the brother of young Durion's wife.
finding those indians to be Yanktons I invited them down to the boats
to Smoke. when we arived at the Canoes they all eagerly Saluted the
Mandan Chief, and we all Set and Smoked Several pipes. I told them that
we took them to be a party of Tetons and the fireing I expected was at
the three men in the rear Canoe and I had went up with a full intention
to kill them all if they had been tetons & fired on the Canoe as we
first expected, but finding them Yanktons and good men we were glad to
See them and take them by the hand as faithfull Children who had opened
their ears to our Councils. one of them Spoke and Said that their
nation had opened their years, & done as we had directed them ever
Since we gave the Meadel to their great Chief, and Should Continue to
do as we had told them we enquired if any of their Chiefs had gone down
with Mr. Durion, the answered that their great Chief and many of their
brave men had gone down, that the white people had built a house near
the Mahar village where they traded. we tied a piec of ribon to each
mans hair and gave them Some Corn of which they appeared much pleased.
The Mandan Cheif gave a par of elegant Legins to the principal man of
the indian party, which is an indian fashion. the Canoe & 3 men haveing
joined us we took our leave of this party telling them to return to
their band and listen to our councils which we had before given to
them. Their band of 80 Lodges were on plum Creek a fiew miles to north.
those nine men had five fusees and 4 bows & quivers of arrows. at 2
P.M. we came too on the upper point of bon homme opposit the antient
fortification and Sent out men to hunt on each Side and on the island.
and the canoes on each Side of the island to receive any meat might be
killed I walked on the N. E. main Shore found the bottom rich and
thickly covered with Peavine rich weed grass interwoven in Such a
manner with grape vines that I could not get through and was obliged to
assend a high plains the passing through which I also found tiresom.
the grass was nearly as high as my head and the musquitors excessively
bad. at the lower point of the Island all the Canoes & hunters Came
together. Labeech killed an Elk only the flesh of which was brought on
in the perogue. at this island we brought 2 years together or on the
1st of Septr. 1804 we Encamped at the lower point of this Island. after
we all Came together we again proceeded on down to a large Sand bar
imediately opposit to the place were we met the Yanktons in Council at
the Calumet Bluffs and which place we left on the it of Septr. 1804. I
observed our old flag Staff or pole Standing as we left it. the
musquitors excessively troublesom untill about 10 P.M. when the S W
wind became Strong and blew the most of them off. we came 52 miles to
day only with a head wind. the Country on either Side are butifull and
the plains much richer below the Queiquer river than above that river.
[Clark, September 2, 1806]
Tuesday 2nd of September 1806
Set out at the usial hour passed the River Jacque at 8 A.M. in the
first bottom below on the N E. Side I observed the remains of a house
which had been built since we passed up, this most probably was
McClellins tradeing house with the Yanktons in the Winter of 1804 & 5
the wind was hard a head & continued to increas which obliged us to lay
by nearly all day. as our Store of meat, I took with me 8 men and
prosued a Small Gang of Cows in the plains 3 miles and killed two which
was in very good order, had them butchered and each man took a load as
much as he Could Carry and returned to the Canoes, the wind Still high
and water rough we did not Set out untill near Sun Set we proceded to a
Sand bar a Short distance below the place we had Come too on account of
the wind and Encamped on a Sand bar, the woods being the harbor of the
Musquetors and the party without the means of Screaning themselves from
those tormenting insects. on the Sand bars the wind which generaly
blows moderately at night blows off those pests and we Sleep Soundly.
The wind Continued to blow hard from the Same point S. E untill 3 P. M
I saw in my walk to day Lynn and Slipery Elm. the plains are tolerably
leavel on each Side and very fertile. I saw 4 prarie fowls Common to
the Illinois, those are the highest up which have been Seen, white Oak
is very Common also white ash on the riveens and high bottoms. two
turkys killed to day of which the Indians very much admired being the
first which they ever Saw. Capt L. is mending fast--we made only 22
Miles to day.
[Clark, September 3, 1806]
Wednesday 3rd of September 1806
Wind Continued to blow very hard this morning. it Shifted last night to
the S. W. and blew the Sand over us in Such a manner as to render the
after part of the night very disagreeable. the wind luled a little and
we Set out and proceeded on with the wind a head passed the enterance
of redstone River on the N E. Side at 11 A M. and at half past 4 P. M
we Spied two boats & Several men, our party peyed their Ores and we
Soon landed on the Side of the Boats the men of these boats Saluted us
with their Small arms I landed & was met by a Mr. James Airs from
Mackanaw by way of Prarie Dechien and St. Louis. this Gentleman is of
the house of Dickson & Co. of Prarie de Chian who has a Licence to
trade for one year with the Sieoux he has 2 Batteaux loaded with
Merchendize for that purpose. This Gentleman receved both Capt. Lewis
and my Self with every mark of friendship he was himself at the time
with a chill of the agu on him which he has had for Several days. our
first enquirey was after the President of our country and then our
friends and the State of the politicks of our country &c. and the State
Indian affairs to all of which enquireys Mr. Aires gave us as
Satisfactory information as he had it in his power to have Collected in
the Illinois which was not a great deel. soon after we Landed a violent
Storm of Thunder Lightning and rain from the N W. which was violent
with hard Claps of thunder and Sharp Lightning which continued untill
10 P M after which the wind blew hard. I set up late and partook of the
tent of Mr. Aires which was dry. Mr. Aires unfortunately had his boat
Sunk on the 25 of July last by a violent Storm of Wind and hail by
which accident he lost the most of his usefull articles as he informd.
us. this Gentleman informed us of maney Changes & misfortunes which had
taken place in the Illinois amongst others the loss of Mr. Cady
Choteaus house and furniture by fire. for this misfortune of our friend
Choteaus I feel my Self very much Concernd &c. he also informed us that
Genl. Wilkinson was the governor of the Louisiana and at St. Louis. 300
of the american Troops had been Contuned on the Missouri a fiew miles
above it's mouth, Some disturbance with the Spaniards in the Nackatosh
Country is the Cause of their being Called down to that Country, the
Spaniards had taken one of the U, States frigates in the Mediteranean,
Two British Ships of the line had fired on an American Ship in the port
of New York, and killed the Capts. brother. 2 Indians had been hung in
St. Louis for murder and several others in jale. and that Mr. Burr &
Genl. Hambleton fought a Duel, the latter was killed &c. &c. I am happy
to find that my worthy friend Capt L's is so well as to walk about with
ease to himself &c., we made 60 Miles to day the river much crowded
with Sand bars, which are very differently Situated from what they were
when we went up.
[Clark, September 4, 1806]
Thursday 4th September 1806
The Musquitors became troublesom early this morning I rose at the usial
hour found all the party as wet as rain could make them. as we were in
want of Some tobacco I purposed to Mr. Airs to furnish us with 4
Carrots for which we would Pay the amount to any Merchant of St. Louis
he very readily agreed to furnish us with tobacco and gave to each man
as much as it is necessary for them to use between this and St. Louis,
an instance of Generossity for which every man of the party appears to
acknowledge. Mr. Airs also insisted on our accepting a barrel of
flourwe gave to this gentleman what Corn we Could Spear amounting to
about 6 bushels, this Corn was well Calculated for his purpose as he
was about to make his establishment and would have it in his power to
hull the Corn & The flower was very acceptable to us. we have yet a
little flour part of what we carried up from the Illinois as high as
Maria's river and buried it there untill our return &c. at 8 A. M we
took our leave and Set out, and proceeded on very well, at 11 A.M.
passed the Enterance of the big Sieoux River which is low, and at
meridian we came too at Floyds Bluff below the Enterance of Floyds
river and assended the hill, with Capt Lewis and Several men, found the
grave had been opened by the nativs and left half Covered. we had this
grave Completely filled up, and returned to the Canoes and proceeded on
to the Sand bar on which we encamped from the 12th to the 20th of
August 1804 near the Mahar Village, here we came to and derected every
wet article put out to dry, all the bedding of the party and Skins
being wet. as it was late in the evening we deturmined to continue all
night. had issued to each man of the party a cup of flour. we See no
Species of Game on the river as usial except wild geese and pelicans. I
observed near Sergt Floyds Grave a number of flurishing black walnut
trees, these are the first which I have seen decending the river. a
little before night Several Guns were heard below and in a direction
towards the Mahar village which induced us to suspect that Mr.
McClellin who we was informed was on his way up to trade with the
Mahars had arived at the Creek below and that those reports of Guns was
Some of his party out hunting. every thing being dry we derected the
Perogue & Canoes to be loaded and in readiness to Set out in the
morning early. at dark the Musquetors became troublesom and continued
So all night the party obtained but little Sleep--we made 36 miles only
to daye.
[Clark, September 5, 1806]
Friday 5th September 1806
The Musquetors being So excessively tormenting that the party was all
on board and we Set out at day light and proceeded on very well. here
the river is bordered on both sides with timber &c becoms much narrower
more Crooked and the Current more rapid and Crouded with Snags or
Sawyers than it is above, and continus So all day. We did not meet with
McClellen as we expected at the Creek. the report of the guns which was
heard must have been the Mahars who most probably have just arrived at
their village from hunting the buffalow. this is a Season they usialy
return to their village to Secure their Crops of Corn Beens punkins &c
&c. proceeded on very well passd. the blue Stone bluff at 3 P. M here
the river leaves the high lands and meanders through a low rich bottom.
Encamped on the S W Side on a Sand bar at a cut off a little below our
Encampment of the 9th of August 1804. haveing made 73 Miles to day-
Capt. Lewis still in a Convelesent State. We Saw no game on the Shores
to day worth killig only Such as pelicans Geese ducks, Eagles and Hawks
&c.-
[Clark, September 6, 1806]
Saturday 6th of September 1806
The Musquetors excessively troublesom we Set out early at the great Cut
off Saw a herd of Elk, we landed and Sent out Several hunters to kill
Some of the Elk, they returnd. without killing any as the Elk was wild
and ran off much fritened. I Sent the two Small Canoes on a head with
derections to hunt in two bottoms below, and after a delay of half an
hour proceeded on wind-hard a head at the lower point 7 of Pelecan
Island a little above the Petite River de Seeoux we met a tradeing boat
of Mr. Ag. Choteaux of St Louis bound to the River Jacque to trade with
the Yanktons, this boat was in Care of a Mr. Henry Delorn, he had
exposed all his loading and Sent out five of his hands to hunt they
Soon arived with an Elk. we purchased a gallon of whiskey of this man
and gave to each man of the party a dram which is the first Spiritious
licquor which had been tasted by any of them Since the 4 of July 1805.
Several of the party exchanged leather for linen Shirts and beaver for
Corse hats. Those men Could inform us nothing more than that all the
troops had movd. from the Illinois and that Genl. Wilkinson was
prepareing to leave St. Louis. We advised this trader to treat the
Tetons with as much Contempt as possible and Stated to him where he
would be benefited by such treatment &c &c. and at 1 P. M Set out those
men gave us 2 Shots from a Swivell they had on the bow of their boat
which we returned in our turn. proceeded on about 3 miles and Came up
with two of the hunters, they had not killd. any thing. at 5 miles we
over took the Canoe of the other hunters with Shannon in it floating
down, the two fields being in the woods behind we Came too on a Sand
bar on the N. E. Side and delayed all the after part of the day for the
two Fields, Sent out 3 men to hunt in the bottom up the river and
observe if they Saw any Sign of the hunters. the evening proved Cloudy
and the wind blew hard two pelicans were killed to day. we came 30
Miles only to day the 2 fieldses did not join us I think they are
below. The Chief & the Squaws & children are awarey of their journey.
Children cry &c.
[Clark, September 7, 1806]
Sunday 7th September 1806
as we were doubtfull that the two fieldses were behind I derected
Sergt. Ordway with 4 men to Continue untill Meridian and if those men
did not arive by that hour to proceed on. if we met with them at any
Short distance a gun Should be fired which would be a Signal for him to
proceed on. we had proceeded on about 8 miles by water and the distance
through not more than 1 mile when we Saw the fire of those 2 men, I
derected a gun fired as a Signal for Sergt. ordway to proceed on, and
took the boys on board. they had killed nothing & informed me they had
been Somewhat almd. at our delay, that the distance across from the
little Sieoux river was about 1 1/2 miles only, the bottoms thick and
Grass very high. we proceded on with a Stiff Breeze ahead (note the
evaperation on this portion of the Missouri has been noticed as we
assended this river, and it now appears to be greater than it was at
that time. I am obliged to replenish my ink Stand every day with fresh
ink at least 9/10 of which must evaperate.) we proceded on to a bottom
on the S W Side a little above the Soldiers river and Came too and Sent
out all the hunters. they killed 3 Elk which was at no great distance
we Sent out the men and had the flesh brought in Cooked and Dined.
Sergt. Ordway Came up & after takeing a Sumptious Dinner we all Set out
at 4 P M wind ahead as usial. at Dusk we came too on the lower part of
a Sand bar on the S W side found the Musquetors excessively tormenting
not withstanding a Stiff breeze from the S. E. a little after dark the
wind increased the Musquetors dispersed our Camp of this night is about
2 miles below our Encampment of the 4th of august 1804 ascending we
came 44 miles to day only
[Clark, September 8, 1806]
Munday 8th September 1806
Set out very early this morning, passed an old tradeing house on the S
W Side a few miles above the Council bluffs, at 11 A M we Came too at
the bluffs and Capt Lewis and myself walked up on the bluffs and around
to examine the Country and Situation more particularly, the Situation
appeared to us eaqually as eligable as when we passed up for an
establishment, the hill high and Commanding with a high rich bottom of
great extent below. we proceeded on very well all being anxious to get
to the River Platt to day they ply'd their orers very well, and we
arived at our old encampment at White Catfish Camp 12 miles above the
river platt at which place we lay from the 22th to the 26th of July
1804 here we encamped haveing made 78 Miles to day. The Missouri at
this place does not appear to Contain more water than it did 1000 Miles
above this, the evaperation must be emence; in the last 1000 miles this
river receives the water 20 rivers and maney Creeks Several of the
Rivers large and the Size of this river or the quantity of water does
not appear to increas any-
[Clark, September 9, 1806]
Tuesday 9th September 1806
Set out early at 8 A. M passed the enterance of the great river Platt
which is at this time low the water nearly clear the Current turbelant
as usial; the Sand bars which Choked up the Missouri and Confined the
river to a narrow Snagey Chanel are wastd a way and nothing remains but
a fiew Small remains of the bear which is covered with drift wood,
below the R. Platt the Current of the Missouri becomes evidently more
rapid than above and the Snags much more noumerous and bad to pass late
in the evening we arived at the Bald pated prarie and encamped
imediately opposit our encampment of the 16th and 17th of July 1804.
haveing made 73 miles only to day. The river bottoms are extencive rich
and Covered with tall large timber, and the hollows of the reveins may
be Said to be covered with timber Such as Oake ash Elm and Some walnut
& hickory. our party appears extreamly anxious to get on, and every day
appears produce new anxieties in them to get to their Country and
friends. My worthy friend Cap Lewis has entirely recovered his wounds
are heeled up and he Can walk and even run nearly as well as ever he
Could. the parts are yet tender &c. &.
The Musquetors are yet troublesom, tho not So much So as they were
above the River platt. the Climate is every day preceptably wormer and
air more Sultery than I have experienced for a long time. the nights
are now So worm that I sleep Comfortable under a thin blanket, a fiew
days past 2 was not more than Sufficient
[Clark, September 10, 1806]
Wednesday 10th of September 1806
we Set out very early this morning and proceeded on very well with wind
moderately a head at ____ P M we met a Mr. Alexander La fass and three
french men from St. Louis in a Small perogue on his way to the River
Platt to trade with the Pania Luup or Wolf Indians. this man was
extreemly friendly to us he offered us any thing he had, we axcepted of
a bottle of whisky only which we gave to our party, Mr. la frost
informed us that Genl. Wilkinson and all the troops had decended the
Mississippi and Mr. Pike and young Mr. Wilkinson had Set out on an
expedition up the Arkansaw river or in that direction after a delay of
half an hour we proceedd on about 3 miles and met a large perogue and 7
Men from St. Louis bound to the Mahars for the purpose of trade, this
perogue was in Charge of a Mt. La Craw, we made Some fiew enquiries of
this man and again proceeded on through a very bad part of the river
Crouded with Snags & Sawyers and incamped on a Sand bar about 4 miles
above the Grand Nemahar. we find the river in this timbered Country
narrow and more moveing Sands and a much greater quantity of Sawyers or
Snags than above. Great caution and much attention is required to Stear
Clear of all those dificuelties in this low State of the water. we made
65 Miles to day. we Saw Deer rackoons and turkies on the Shores to day
one of the men killed a racoon which the indians very much admired.
[Clark, September 11, 1806]
Thursday 11th Septr. 1806
a heavy Cloud and wind from the N W. detained us untill after Sunrise
at which time we Set out and proceeded on very well, passed the nemahar
which was low and did not appear as wide as when we passed up. Wolf
river Scercely runs at all, at 3 P. M we halted a little above the
Nadawa river on the S. Side of the Missouri to kill Some meat that
which we killed a fiew days past being all Spoiled. Sent out 6 hunters
they killed and brought in two Deer only, we proceeded on a fiew miles
below the Nadawa Island and encamped on a Small Isld. near the N. E.
Side, haveing Came 40 Miles only to day, river rapid and in maney
places Crouded with Snag's. I observe on the Shores much deer Sign--the
mosquitoes are no longer troublesome on the river, from what cause they
are noumerous above and not So on this part of the river I cannot
account. Wolves were howling in different directions this evening after
we had encamped, and the barking of the little prarie wolves resembled
those of our Common Small Dogs that 3/4 of the party believed them to
be the dogs of Some boat assending which was yet below us. the barking
of those little wolves I have frequently taken notice of on this as
also the other Side of the Rocky mountains, and their Bark so much
resembles or Sounds to me like our Common Small Cur dogs that I have
frequently mistaken them for that Speces of dog--The papaws nearly ripe
[Clark, September 12, 1806]
Friday 12th of September 1806
a thick fog a litile before day which blew off at day light. a heavy
Dew this morning. we Set out at Sunrise the usial hour and proceeded on
very well about 7 miles met 2 perogues from St. Louis one contained the
property of Mr. Choteau bound to the panias on River Platt, the other
going up trapping as high as the Mahars. here we met one of the french
men who had accompanied us as high as the Mandans he informed us that
Mr. McClellen was a fiew miles below the wind blew a head Soon after we
pased those perogues, we Saw a man on Shore who informed us that he was
one of Mr. McClellens party and that he was a Short distance below, we
took this man on board and proceeded on and Met Mr. McClellin at the
St. Michl. Prarie we came too here we found Mr. Jo. Gravelin the
Ricaras enterpreter whome we had Sent down with a Ricaras Chief in the
Spring of 1805 and old Mr. Durion the Sieux enterpreter, we examined
the instructions of those interpreters and found that Gravelin was
ordered to the Ricaras with a Speach from the president of the U.
States to that nation and some presents which had been given the Ricara
Cheif who had visited the U. States and unfortunately died at the City
of Washington, he was instructed to teach the Ricaras agriculture &
make every enquirey after Capt Lewis my self and the party Mr. Durion
was enstructed to accompany Gravelin and through his influence pass him
with his presents & by the tetons bands of Sieux, and to provale on
Some of the Principal chiefs of those bands not exceeding six to Visit
the Seat of the Government next Spring he was also enstructed to make
every enquirey after us. we made Some Small addition to his
instructions by extending the number of Chiefs to 10 or 12 or 3 from
each band including the Yanktons &c. Mr. McClellin receved us very
politely, and gave us all the news and occurrences which had taken
place in the Illinois within his knowledge the evening proveing to be
wet and Cloudy we Concluded to continue all night, we despatched the
two Canoes a head to hunt with 5 hunters in them
[Clark, September 13, 1806]
Saturday 13th September 1806
rose early Mr. McClellen gave each man a Dram and a little after
Sunrise we Set out the wind hard a head from the S E at 8 A M we landed
at the Camp of the 5 hunters whome we had Sent a head, they had killed
nothing, the wind being too high for us to proceed in Safty through the
emecity of Snags which was imediately below we concluded to lye by and
Sent on the Small Canoes a Short distance to hunt and kill Some meat,
we Sent out 2 men in the bottom they Soon returned with one turky and
informed that the rushes was so high and thick that it was impossible
to kill any deer. I felt my Self very unwell and derected a little
Chocolate which Mr. McClellen gave us, prepared of which I drank about
a pint and found great relief at 11 A.M. we proceeded on about 1 mile
and come up with the hunters who had killed 4 deer, here we delayed
untill 5 P. M when the hunters all joined us and we again proceded on
down a fiew miles and encamped on the N E Side of the Missouri haveing
decended 18 Miles only to day. the day disagreeably worm. one man
George Shannon left his horn and pouch with his powder ball and knife
and did not think of it untill night. I walked in the bottom in the
thick rushes and the Growth of timber Common to the Illinois Such as
cotton wood, Sycamore, ash mulberry, Elm of different Species, walnut,
hickory, horn beem, pappaw arrow wood willow, prickly ash, &c and Grape
vines, pees of 3 species &c &c. Birds most Common the buzzard Crow the
hooting owl and hawks, &c. &c.-
[Clark, September 14, 1806]
Sunday 14th Sept. 1806
Set out early and proceeded on very well. this being the part of the
Missouri the Kanzas nation resort to at this Season of the year for the
purpose of robbing the perogues passing up to other nations above, we
have every reason to expect to meet with them, and agreeably to their
Common Custom of examining every thing in the perogues and takeing what
they want out of them, it is probable they may wish to take those
liberties with us, which we are deturmined not to allow of and for the
Smallest insult we Shall fire on them. at 2 P.M. a little below the
lower of the old Kanzas Village we met three large boats bound to the
Yanktons and Mahars the property of Mr. Lacroy, Mr. Aiten & Mr. Coutau
all from St. Louis, those young men received us with great friendship
and pressed on us Some whisky for our men, Bisquet, Pork and Onions, &
part of their Stores, we continued near 2 hours with those boats,
makeing every enquirey into the state of our friends and Country &c.
those men were much affraid of meeting with the Kanzas. we Saw 37 Deer
on the banks and in the river to Day 5 of which we killed those deer
were Meager. we proceeded on to an Island near the middle of the river
below our encampment of the 1st of July 1804 and encamped haveing
decended only 53 miles to day. our party received a dram and Sung Songs
untill 11 oClock at night in the greatest harmoney.
[Clark, September 15, 1806]
Monday 15th of September 1806
we set out early with a Stiff Breeze a head saw Several deer Swiming
the river soon after we Set out. at 11 A.M. passed the enterance of the
Kanzas river which was very low, about a mile below we landed and Capt
Lewis and my Self assended a hill which appeared to have a Commanding
Situation for a fort, the Shore is bold and rocky imediately at the
foot of the hill, from the top of the hill you have a perfect Command
of the river, this hill fronts the Kanzas and has a view of the
Missouri a Short distance above that river. we landed one time only to
let the men geather Pappaws or the Custard apple of which this Country
abounds, and the men are very fond of. we discovered a Buck Elk on a
Small Island, and sent the 2 fields and Shannon in pursute of it they
Soon Came up with and killed the Elk, he was large and in fine order we
had his flesh Secured and divided. as the winds were unfabourable the
greater part of the day we only decended 49 Miles and encamped a Short
distance Above Hay Cabin Creek we are not tormented by the Musquetors
in this lower portion of the river, as we were above the river plat and
as high up as the Rochejhone and for a fiew miles up that river, and
above its enterance into the Missouri. we passd Some of the most
Charming bottom lands to day and the uplands by no means bad, all well
timberd. the weather disagreeably worm and if it was not for the
constant winds which blow from the S. and S E. we Should be almost
Suficated Comeing out of a northern Country open and Cool between the
Latd. Of 46° and 49° North in which we had been for nearly two years,
rapidly decending into a woody Country in a wormer Climate between the
Latds. 38°& 39° North is probably the Cause of our experiencing the heat
much more Senceable than those who have Continued within the parralel
of Latitude.
[Clark, September 16, 1806]
Tuesday 16th September 1806
we Set out early this morning and proceded on tolerably well the Day
proved excessively worm and disagreeable, So much So that the men rowed
but little, at 10 A M we met a large tradeing perogue bound for the
Panias we continued but a Short time with them. at 11 A. M we met young
Mr. Bobidoux with a large boat of six ores and 2 Canoes, the licenes of
this young man was to trade with the Panias Mahars and ottoes reather
an extroadanary a license for young a man and without the Seal of the
teritory anexed, as Genl. Wilkensons Signeture was not to this
instrement we were Somewhat doubtfull of it. Mr. Browns Signeture we
were not acquainted with without the Teritorial Seal. we made Some
enquireys of this young man and Cautioned him against prosueing the
Steps of his brother in attempting to degrade the American Charector in
the eyes of the Indians. we proceeded on to an Island a little above
our encampment of the 16th & 17th of June 1804 haveing Came 52 miles
only to day.
[Clark, September 17, 1806]
Wednesday 17th September 1806
We Set out as usial early pass the Island of the little Osage Village
which is considered by the navigater of this river to be the worst
place in it. at this place water of the Missouri is confined between an
Island and the S E main Shore and passes through a narrow chanel for
more than 2 miles which is crouded with Snags in maney places quite
across obligeing the navigater to pica, his passage between those Snags
as he can, in maney places the current passing with great velocity
against the banks which cause them to fall &c. at 11 A.M. we met a
Captain McClellin late a Capt. of Artily of the U States Army assending
in a large boat. this gentleman an acquaintance of my friend Capt.
Lewis was Somewhat astonished to See us return and appeared rejoiced to
meet us. we found him a man of information and from whome we received a
partial account of the political State of our Country, we were makeing
enquires and exchangeing answers &c. untill near mid night. this
Gentleman informed us that we had been long Since given out by the
people of the U S Generaly and almost forgotton, the President of the
U. States had yet hopes of us; we received some civilities of Capt.
McClellin, he gave us Some Buisquit, Chocolate Sugar & whiskey, for
which our party were in want and for which we made a return of a barrel
of corn & much obliges to him. Capt. McClellin informed us that he was
on reather a speculative expedition to the confines of New Spain, with
the view to entroduce a trade with those people. his plan is to
proceede up this river to the Entcrance of the river platt there to
form an establishment from which to trade partially with the Panas &
Ottoes, to form an acquaintance with the Panias and provail Some of
their principal Chiefs to accompany him to Santa Fee where he will
appear in a stile calculated to atract the Spanish government in that
quarter and through the influence of a handsome present he expects to
be promited to exchange his merchindize for Silver & gold of which
those people abound. he has a kind of introductory Speach from Govr.
Wilkinson to the Panias and Ottoes and a quantity of presents of his
own which he purposes distributing to the Panias and ELeatans with a
view to gain their protection in the execution of his plans, if the
Spanish Governmt. favour his plans, he purposes takeing his merchendize
on mules & horses which Can easily be procured of the panias, to Some
point convenient to the Spanish Settlements within the Louisiana
Teritory to which place the inhabitants of New mexico may meet him for
the purpose of trade &c. Capt McClellins plan I think a very good one
if strictly prosued &c.
we Sent 5 hunters a head with directions to halt below Grand river and
hunt untill we arived which would be in the morning. This day proved
worme. we decended only 30 miles to day and encamped 4 miles above
Grand river on S E. Side.
[Clark, September 18, 1806]
Thursday 18th of September 1806
we rose early Capt McClellin wrote a letter and we took our leave, and
proceeded on passed the Grand river at 7 A M. a Short distance below we
came up with our hunters, they had killed nothing. at 10 oClock we Came
too and gathered pottows to eate we have nothing but a fiew Buisquit to
eate and are partly compelled to eate poppows which we find in great
quantities on the Shores, the weather we found excessively hot as
usial. the lands fine particularly the bottoms. a charming Oake bottom
on the S E Side of the Missouri above the 2 Charletons rivers we find
the Current of this part of the Missouri much more jentle than it was
as we assended, the water is now low and where it is much confin'd it
is rapid. we saw very little appearance of deer, Saw one bear at a
distance and 3 turkeys only to day. our party entirely out of
provisions Subsisting on poppaws. we divide the buiskit which amounted
to nearly one buisket per man, this in addition to the poppaws is to
last is down to the Settlement's which is 150 miles the party appear
perfectly contented and tell us that they can live very well on the
pappaws. we made 52 miles to day only. one of our party J. Potts
complains very much of one of his eyes which is burnt by the Sun from
exposeing his face without a cover from the Sun. Shannon also complains
of his face & eyes &c. Encamped on an Island nearly opposit to the
enterance of Mine river.
[Clark, September 19, 1806]
Friday 19th of Sept. 1806
Set out this morning a little after day & proceeded on very well the
men ply their oares & we decended with great velocity, only Came too
once for the purpose of gathering pappows, our anxiety as also the wish
of the party to proceed on as expeditiously as possible to the Illinois
enduce us to continue on without halting to hunt. we Calculate on
ariveing at the first Settlements on tomorrow evening which is 140
miles, and objecet of our party is to divide the distance into two
days, this day to the Osarge River, and tomorrow to the Charriton a
Small french Village--we arived at the Enterance of Osage River at dark
and encamped on the Spot we had encamped on the 1st & 2d of June 1804
haveing Came 72 miles. a very singular disorder is takeing place
amongst our party that of the Sore eyes. three of the party have their
eyes inflamed and Sweled in Such a manner as to render them extreamly
painfull, particularly when exposed to the light, the eye ball is much
inflaimed and the lid appears burnt with the Sun, the cause of this
complaint of the eye I can't account for. from it's Sudden appearance I
am willing to believe it may be owing to the reflection of the Sun on
the water
[Clark, September 20, 1806]
Saturday 20th Septr. 1806
as three of the party was unabled to row from the State of their eyes
we found it necessary to leave one of our Crafts and divide the men
into the other Canoes, we left the two Canoes lashed together which I
had made high up the River Rochejhone, those Canoes we Set a drift and
a little after day light we Set out and proceeded on very well. The
Osage river very low and discharges but a Small quantity of water at
this time for so large a river. at meridian we passed the enterance of
the Gasconnade river below which we met a perogue with 5 french men
bound to the Osarge Gd. village. the party being extreemly anxious to
get down ply their ores very well, we Saw Some cows on the bank which
was a joyfull Sight to the party and Caused a Shout to be raised for
joy at ____ P M we Came in Sight of the little french Village called
Charriton the men raised a Shout and Sprung upon their ores and we soon
landed opposit to the Village. our party requested to be permited to
fire off their Guns which was alowed & they discharged 3 rounds with a
harty Cheer, which was returned from five tradeing boats which lay
opposit the village. we landed and were very politely received by two
young Scotch men from Canada one in the employ of Mr. Aird a Mr. ____
and the other Mr. Reed, two other boats the property of Mr. Lacomb &
Mr. ____ all of those boats were bound to the Osage and Ottoes. those
two young Scotch gentlemen furnished us with Beef flower and Some pork
for our men, and gave us a very agreeable supper. as it was like to
rain we accepted of a bed in one of their tents. we purchased of a
Citizen two gallons of Whiskey for our party for which we were obliged
to give Eight dollars in Cash, an imposition on the part of the
Citizen. every person, both French and americans Seem to express great
pleasure at our return, and acknowledged them selves much astonished in
Seeing us return. they informed us that we were Supposed to have been
lost long Since, and were entirely given out by every person &c.
Those boats are from Canada in the batteaux form and wide in perpotion
to their length. their length about 30 feet and the width 8 feet &
pointed bow & Stern, flat bottom and rowing Six ores only the
Skeneckeity form. those Bottoms are prepared for the navigation of this
river, I beleive them to be the best Calculated for the navigation of
this river of any which I have Seen. they are wide and flat not Subject
to the dangers of the roleing Sands, which larger boats are on this
river. the American inhabitants express great disgust for the govermt
of this Teritory. from what I can lern it arises from a disapmt. of
getting all the Spanish Grants Confirmed-. Came 68 ms. to day.
[Clark, September 21, 1806]
Sunday 21st Septr. 1806
rose early this morning Colected our men Several of them had axcepted
of the invitation of the Citizens and visited their families. at half
after 7 A. M we Set out. passed 12 canoes of Kickapoos assending on a
hunting expedition. Saw Several persons also Stock of different kind on
the bank which reviv'd the party very much. at 3 P M we met two large
boats assending. at 4 P M we arived in Sight of St. Charles, the party
rejoiced at the Sight of this hospital village plyed thear ores with
great dexterity and we Soon arived opposit the Town, this day being
Sunday we observed a number of Gentlemen and ladies walking on the
bank, we Saluted the Village by three rounds from our blunderbuts and
the Small arms of the party, and landed near the lower part of the
town. we were met by great numbers of the inhabitants, we found them
excessively polite. we received invitations from Several of those
Gentlemen a Mr. Proulx, Taboe, Decett, Tice Dejonah & Quarie and
several who were pressing on us to go to their houses, we could only
visit Mr. Proulx and Mr. Deucett in the course of the evening. Mr.
Querie under took to Supply our party with provisions &c. the
inhabitants of this village appear much delighted at our return and
seem to vie with each other in their politeness to us all. we Came only
48 miles today. the banks of the river thinly Settled &c.
[Clark, September 22, 1806]
Monday 22nd of Sept. 1806
This morning being very wet and the rain Still Continueing hard, and
our party being all Sheltered in the houses of those hospitable people,
we did not think proper to proceed on untill after the rain was over,
and continued at the house of Mr. Proulx. I took this oppertunity of
writeing to my friends in Kentucky &c. at 10 A M. it seased raining and
we Colected our party and Set out and proceeded on down to the
Contonemt. at Coldwater Creek about 3 miles up the Missouri on it's
Southern banks, at this place we found Colo. Hunt & a Lieut Peters &
one Company of Artillerists we were kindly received by the Gentlemen of
this place. Mrs. Wilkinson the Lady of the Govr. & Genl. we wer Sorry
to find in delicate health.
we were honored with a Salute of ____ Guns and a harty welcom at this
place there is a publick Store kept in which I am informed the U. S
have 60000$ worth of indian Goods
[Clark, September 23, 1806]
Thursday 23rd of Septr. 1806
we rose early took the Chief to the publick store & furnished him with
Some clothes &c. took an early breckfast with Colo. Hunt and Set out
decended to the Mississippi and down that river to St. Louis at which
place we arived about 12 oClock. we Suffered the party to fire off
their pieces as a Salute to the Town. we were met by all the village
and received a harty welcom from it's inhabitants &. here I found my
old acquaintance Majr. W. Christy who had Settled in this town in a
public line as a Tavern Keeper. he furnished us with Store rooms for
our baggage and we accepted of the invitation of Mr. Peter Choteau and
took a room in his house we payed a friendly visit to Mr August Chotau
and Some of our old friends this evening. as the post had departed from
St. Louis Capt Lewis wrote a note to Mr. Hay in Kahoka to detain the
post at that place untill 12 tomorrow which was reather later than his
usial time of leaveing it
[Clark, September 24, 1806]
Wednesday 24th of September 1806
I sleped but little last night however we rose early and Commencd
wrighting our letters Capt. Lewis wrote one to the presidend and I
wrote Govr. Harrison & my friends in Kentucky and Sent of George
Drewyer with those letters to Kohoka & delivered them to Mr. Hays &. we
dined with Mr. Chotoux to day, and after dinner went to a Store and
purchased Some Clothes, which we gave to a Tayler and derected to be
made. Capt Lewis in opening his trunk found all his papers wet, and
Some Seeds spoiled
[Clark, September 25, 1806]
Thursday 25th of Septr. 1806
had all of our Skins &c. Suned and Stored away in a Storeroom of Mr.
Caddy Choteau. payed Some visits of form, to the gentlemen of St.
Louis. in the evening a dinner & Ball
[Clark, September 26, 1806]
Friday 26th of September 1806
a fine morning we commenced wrighting &c.