Wednesday April 16th 1806.
About 8 A.M. Capt. Clark passed the river with the two interpreters,
the indian woman and nine men in order to trade with the natives for
their horses, for which purpose he took with him a good part of our
stock of merchandize. I remained in camp; sent out the hunters very
early in the morning, and set Sergts. Gass and Pryor with some others
at work to make a parsel of packsaddles. twelve horses will be
sufficient to transport our baggage and some pounded fish which we
intend taking with us as a reserved store for the rocky mountains. I
was visited today by several of the natives, and amused myself in
making a collection of the esculent plants in the neighbourhood such as
the Indians use, a specemine of which I preserved. I also met with
sundry other plants which were strangers to me which I also preserved,
among others there is a currant which is now in blume and has yellow
blossom something like the yellow currant of the Missouri but is a
different speceis. Reubin Feilds returned in the evening and brought
with him a large grey squrrel and two others of a kind I had never
before seen. they are a size less than the grey squirrel common to the
middle atlantic states and of a pided grey and yellowish brown colour,
in form it resembles our grey squrrel precisely. I had them skined
leaving the head feet and tail to them and placed in the sun to dry.
Joseph Feilds brought me a black pheasant which he had killed; this I
found on examination to be the large black or dark brown pheasant I had
met with on the upper part of the Missouri. it is as large as a well
grown fowl the iris of the eye is of a dark yellowish brown, the puple
black, the legs are booted to the toes, the tail is composed of 18
black feathers tiped with bluish white, of which the two in the center
are reather shorter than the others which are all of the same length.
over the eye there is a stripe of a 1/4 of an inch in width uncovered
with feathers of a fine orrange yellow. the wide spaces void of
feathers on the side of the neck are also of the same colour. I had
some parts of this bird preserved. our present station is the last
point at which there is a single stick of timber on the river for a
great distance and is the commencement of the open plains which extend
nearly to the base of the rocky Mts. Labuish returned this evening
having killed two deer I sent and had them brought in. this evening
Capt. C. informed me by some of the men whom he sent over that that he
had obtained no horses as yet of the natives. that they promised to
trade with him provided he would remove to their vil-lage. to this he
had consented and should proceede to the Skillute village above the
long narrows as soon as the men returned whom he had sent to me for
some other articles. I dispatched the men on their return to capt. C.
immediately with these articles and he set out with his party
accompanyed by the natives to their village where he remained all
night.--the natives who had spent the day with me seemed very well
disposed, they left me at 6 in the evening and returned to their
rispective villages. the hunters informed me that they saw some
Antelopes, & the tracks of several black bear, but no appearance of any
Elk. we were informed by the Indians that the river which falls in on
the S. side of the Columbia just above the Eneshur village heads in
Mount hood and dose not water the extensive country which we have
heretofore calculated on. a great portion of that extensive tract of
country to the S. and S. W. of the Columbia and it's S. E. branch, and
between the same and the waters of Callifornia must be watered by the
Multnomah river.-
[Clark, April 16, 1806]
April 16th 1806
Crossed the river and Sent Drewyer & Goodrich to the Skil lute village
to envite the Indians to trade horses with us, also sent Frazer &
Shabono to the Che-luck-kit-ti-quar village for the same purpose a
number of Indians came of both nations and delayed the greater part of
the day without tradeing a Single horse the Great Chief of the
Skillutes also came with Drewyer. he was lame and Could not walk he
told me if I would go to his Town his people would trade with me. I Set
out late and arrived at Sunset and informd. the natives that in the
morning I would trade with them. he gave me onions to eate which had
been Sweated. Peter played the violin and the men danced. Saw abt. 100
Stacks of fish. maney nations visit this place for trade. the
discription of the houses, their dress habits &c. Smoked &c. I saw
great numbers of horses
[Clark, April 16, 1806]
Wednesday April 16th 1806
about 8 oClock this morning I passed the river with the two
interpreters, and nine men in order to trade with the nativs for their
horses, for which purpose I took with me a good part of our Stock of
merchindize. Capt L. Sent out the hunters and Set Several men at work
makeing pack Saddles. twelve horses will be Sufficient to trans port
our baggage and Some pounded fish with our dried Elk. which we intend
takeing with us as a reserved Store for the Plains & rocky mountains. I
formed a Camp on the N. Side and Sent Drewyer & Goodrich to the
Skillute Village, and Shabono & Frazer down to the Chilluckkitequaw
Villages with derections to inform the nativs that I had Crossed the
river for the purpose of purchaseing horses, and if they had horses to
Sell us to bring them to my Camp. Great numbers of Indians came from
both Villages and delayed the greater part of the day without tradeing
a Single horse. Drewyer returned with the principal Chief of the
Skillutes who was lame and Could not walk. after his arival Some horses
were offered for Sale, but they asked nearly half the merchindize I had
with me for one horse. this price I could not think of giveing. the
Chief informed me if I would go to his town with him, his people would
Sell me horses. I therefore Concluded to accompany him to his Village 7
miles distant. we Set out and arrived at the Village at Sunset. after
Some Serimony I entered the house of the Chief. I then informed them
that I would trade with them for their horses in the morning for which
I would give for each horse the articles which I had offered yestered.
The Chief Set before me a large platter of Onions which had been
Sweeted. I gave a part of those onions to all my party and we all eate
of them, in this State the root is very Sweet and the tops tender. the
nativs requested the party to dance which they very readily consented
and Peter Cruzat played on the Violin and the men danced Several dances
& retired to rest in the houses of the 1st and Second Cheif.
this village is moved about 300 yards below the Spot it Stood last fall
at the time we passed down. they were all above grown and built in the
Same form of those below already discribed. We observed maney stacks of
fish remaining untouched on either Side of the river. The Inhabitents
of this Village ware the robe of deer Elk Goat &c. and most of the men
ware Legins and mockersons and Shirts highly ornimented with Porcupine
quills & beeds. the women were the Truss most Commonly. tho Some of
them have long Shirts all of those articles they precure from other
nations who visit them for the purpose of exchangeing those articles
for their pounded fish of which they prepare great quantities. This is
the Great Mart of all this Country. ten different tribes who reside on
Taptate and Catteract River visit those people for the purpose of
purchaseing their fish, and the Indians on the Columbia and Lewis's
river quite to the Chopunnish Nation Visit them for the purpose of
tradeing horses buffalow robes for beeds, and Such articles as they
have not. The Skillutes precure the most of their Cloth knivs axes &
beeds from the Indians from the North of them who trade with white
people who come into the inlets to the North at no great distance from
the Tapteet. their horses of which I saw great numbers, they precure
from the Indians who reside on the banks of the Columbia above, and
what fiew they take from the To war ne hi ooks or Snake Indians. I
smoked with all the principal men of this nation in the house of their
great Cheif and lay my Self down on a Mat to Sleep but was prevented by
the mice and vermin with which this house abounded and which was very
troublesom to me.
[Lewis, April 17, 1806]
Thursday April 17th 1806.
This morning early I sent out the hunters, and set several additional
hands about the packsaddles. I find that the sturgeon is not taken by
any of the natives above the Columbean vally. the inhabitants of the
rapids at this time take a few of the white salmon trout and
considerable quantities of a small indifferent mullet on which they
principally subsist. I have seen none except dryed fish of the last
season in the possession of the people above that place, they subsist
on roots principally with some dryed and pounded fish. the salmon not
having made their appearance proves a serious inconvenience to us. but
few of the natives visited my camp today and those only remained a few
hours. even at this place which is merely on the border of the plains
of Columbia the climate seems to have changed the air feels dryer and
more pure. the earth is dry and seems as if there had been no rain for
a week or ten days. the plain is covered with a rich virdure of grass
and herbs from four to nine inches high and exhibits a beautiful) seen
particularly pleasing after having been so long imprisoned in mountains
and those almost impenetrably thick forrests of the seacoast. Joseph
Feilds brought me today three eggs of the party coloured corvus, they
are about the size and shape of those of the pigeon. they are bluish
white much freckled with dark redish brown irregular spots, in short it
is reather a mixture of those colours in which the redish brown
predominates, particularly towards the larger end.--This evening
Willard and Cruzatte returned from Capt. Clark and brought me a note in
which Capt. C. informed me that he had sill been unsuccessful) having
not obtained a single horse as yet from the natives and the state of
our stores are so low that I begin to fear we shall not be enabled to
obtain as many horses at this place as will convey our baggage and
unless we do obtain a sufficient number for that purpose we shall not
hasten our progress as a part of our baggage must still be conveyed by
water. Capt. C. informed me that he should proceed as far as the
Eneshur village today and would return tomorrow and join me at the
Skillute village to which place I mean to proceed with the party
tomorrow. I dispatched Shannon with a note to Capt. Clark in which I
requested him to double the price we have heretofore offered for horses
and if possible obtain as many as five, by this means we shall be
enabled to proceed immediately with our small canoes and those horses
to the villages in the neighbourhood of the mussel shell rapid where
horses are more abundant and cheaper; with the remainder of our
merchandize in addition to the canoes we can no doubt obtain as many
horses there as will answer our purposes. delay in the villages at the
narrows and falls will be expensive to us inasmuch as we will be
compelled to purchase both fuel and food of the indians, and might the
better enable them to execute any hostile desighn should they meditate
any against us.--all the hunters returned in the evening. Sheilds had
killed one deer which he brought with him. the packsaddles were
completed this evening. I had some Elkskins put in the water today make
harnes for the packhorses but shall not cut them untill I know the
number we can obtain.--there is a species of hiasinth in these plains
the bulb of which the natives eat either boiled baked or dryed in the
sun. this bulb is white, not entirely solid, and of a flat form; the
bulb of the present year overlays, or crowns that of the last, and
seems to be pressed close to it, the old bulb is withered much thiner
equally wide with that of the present year and sends fourth from it's
sides a number of small radicles.--this hiasinth is of a pale blue
colour and is a very pretty flower. I preserved a specemine of it.
[Clark, April 17, 1806]
April 17th 1806
I rose early and took a position near to the village and exposed the
artiles I had for Sale Great numbers of Indians Came from different
derections, Some from below Some above and others across the Countrey
from the Tapteet river See description of the Nations &c.--I obtained a
Sketch of the Columbia as also Clarks river. See sketch I made a bargin
with the Chief who has more horses than all the village besides for 2
horses. Soon after he Canseled his bargin, and we again bargined for 3
horses, they were brought forward, and only one fit for Service, the
others had Such intolerable backs as to render them entirely unfit for
Service. as I would not take the 3 he would not Sell the good one to
me, and we were off the bargin. I then packed up and was about Setting
out for the Falls when one Indian Sold me 2 horses and one other one
horse, and Some others Said they wished to trade which caused me to
conclude to delay here one other night. Maney of the natives from above
Come and Said they would trade, but asked a higher price than I thought
I could give or reather more than this nation asked.--Great numbers of
Men.--I hed to purchase 3 dogs for the men to eate & Some
Shap-per-lell. I Sent Crusat, Wiser, Willard and McNeal back to Capt
Lewis informing him of my ill Suck'sess, and adviseing him to proceed
on to this place as Soon as possible, and my intention of proceededing
on to the falls to purchase horses if possible Several Indians arived
late this evening. Capt. Lewis Sent me a note by Shannon informing me
that he would Set early on tomorrow morning early &c. &c. I sleped in
house of the 2d Chief and they had not any thing except fish to eate
and no wood for fire. those people have a number of buffalow robes.
They have great number of Skimming nets
[Clark, April 17, 1806]
Thursday 17th of April 1806
I rose early after bad nights rest, and took my merchindize to a rock
which afforded an elegable Situation for my purpose, and at a Short
distance from the houses, and divided the articles of merchindize into
parsels of Such articles as I thought best Calculated to pleas the
Indians, and in each parcel I put as many articles as we could afford
to give, and thus exposed them to view, informing the Indians that each
parcel was intended for a horse. they tanterlised me the greater part
of the day, Saying that they had Sent out for their horses and would
trade as Soon as they Came. Several parcels of merchindize was laid by
for which they told me they would bring horses. I made a bargin with
the Chief for 2 horses, about an hour after he canseled the bargin and
we again bargained for 3 horses which were brought foward, only one of
the 3 could be possibly used the other two had Such intolerable backs
as to render them entirely unfit for Service. I refused to take two of
them which displeased him and he refused to part with the 3rd. I then
packed up the articles and was about Setting out for the Village above
when a man Came and Sold me two horses, and another man Sold me one
horse, and Several others informed me that they would trade with me if
I would Continue untill their horses could be drove up. this induced me
to Continue at this Village another day. Maney of the nativs from
different villages on the Columbia above offered to trade, but asked
Such things as we had not and double as much of the articles which I
had as we could afford to give. this was a very unfavourable
circumstance as my dependance for precureing a Sufficiency of horses
rested on the Suckcess above where I had reasons to believe there were
a greater abundance of those animals, and was in hopes of getting them
on better terms. I purchased 3 dogs for the party with me to eate and
Some Chap-pa-lell for my Self. before precureing the 3 horses I
dispatched Crusat, Willard & McNeal and Peter Wiser to Capt Lewis at
the Rock fort Camp with a note informing him of my ill Suckcess in
precureing horses, and advised him to proceed on to this place as Soon
as possible. that I would in the mean time proceed on to the Enesher
Nation above the Great falls and try to purchase Some horses of that
people. Soon after I had dispatched this party the Chief of the
Enesher's and 15 or 20 of his people visited me and appeared to be
anxious to See the articles I offered for the horses. Several of them
agreeed to let me have horses if I would add Sundery articles to those
I offered which I agreeed to, and they lay'd those bundles by and
informed me they would deliver me the horses in the morning. I proposed
going with them to their Town. the Chief informed me that their horses
were all in the plains with their womin gathering roots. they would
Send out and bring the horses to this place tomorrow. this entiligence
was flattering, tho I doubted the Sincerity of those people who had
Several times disapointed me in a Similar way. however I deturmined to
Continue untill tomorrow. in the mean time industously employd. our
Selves with the great multitude of indians of differant Nations about
us trying to purchase horses. Shabono purchased a verry fine Mare for
which he gave Hurmen, Elks Teeth, a belt and Some other articles of no
great value. no other purchase was made in the Course of this day. in
the evening I recved a note from Capt L--by Shannon informing me that
he Should Set out early on tomorrow morning and Should proceed up to
the bason 2 miles below the Skillute Village. and adviseing me to give
double the prices which we had first agreed on for each horse. I
observe at every house Scooping Nets with which they take the Salmon.
I was envited into the house of the 2nd Chief where Concluded to Sleep.
this man was pore nothing to eat but dried fish, and no wood to burn.
altho the night was Cold they Could not rase as much wood as would make
a fire
[Lewis, April 18, 1806]
Friday April 18th 1806.
Late last evening we were visited by the principal cheif of
Chilluckkittaquaws and 12 of his nation they remained with us untill 9
OC. when they all departed except the Cheif and two others who slept at
my feet. we loaded our vessels and set out after an early breakfast
this morning. we gave the indians a passage to the N. shore on which
they reside and pursued our rout to the foot of the first rapid at the
distance of 4 ms. here we found it necessary to unload the perogues and
canoes and make a portage of 70 paces over a rock; we then drew our
vessels up by a cord and the assistance of setingpoles. from hence we
proceeded to the bason below the long narrows 5 ms. further and landed
on the Lard. side at 1/2 after 3. the Cheif when he left me this
morning promised to bring some horses to barter with me at the bason.-
the long narrows are much more formidable than they were when we
decended them last fall there would be no possibility of passind either
up or down them in any vessel.--after unloading the canoes and
arranging the camp I walked up to the Skillute Village and jouined
Capt. he had procured four horses only for which a high price had been
given, at least more than double that which we had formerly given for
those which we purchased from the Shoshonees and the first band of
Flatheads. they have a great abundance of horses but will not dispose
of them. we determined to make the portage to the head of the long
narrows with our baggage and five small canoes. the 2 perogues we could
take no further and therefore cut them up for fuel. in the evening
Capt. C. and myself returned to the camp at the bason and left Drewyer
and three others with the merchandize at the village, three parsels of
which had been laid by at the request of individuals who promised to
give us horses for them in the morning.--I shot my airgun in the
presents of the natives at the village which excited great astonishment.
[Clark, April 18, 1806]
April 18th 1806
early this morning I was awoke by a Indian from the nieghbourhood of
our horses, he had he arived here yesterday & this morning found a
Small bag of powder and ball which had been left when we exposed our
goods yesterday and brought it to me. I had a fire made out and exposed
the articles &c. having increased the articles for each horse, and Sent
out 2 men to hunt the horses bought yesterday. after Colecting them
Sent Shabono and Frazer with the 4 I had purchased down to Capt Lewis.
and was tanterlised with the expectation of purchaseing more
imediately. Great numbers of the Indians from the falls and both above
and below. none of them appeared anxious to part with their horses but
told me that Several were Comeing from the plains about 1 or 2 P M. and
laid by 2 parcels of merchindize and told me that they had Sent for
their horses. among other Tribes was those of the Skad-datts who
bantered the Skillutes to play with them at a Singular Kind of game
which was Soon Made up and 9 of aside Sat down they were Some time
making up their bets of Beeds, brass thimbles or tubes robes &c. &c.
when the bets were all made up the nine on each Side took opposides
faceing each other at the distance of about 12 feet. in front of each
party was placed a long pole on which they Struck with a Stick and
Sung. they made use of 2 Small pices of bone in this form and Size a
bone was given to 2 men of the Same party who changed it from hand to
hand with great dexterity one hand above the other looking down, and
when he was ready for the opposit party to guess he Seperated his hands
Swinging them around the breast looking at the opposit party who waved
their hand to the Side the bone was in. if the opposit party guessed
the hand of each man the bone was given to them. if neither it was
nothing. if they guessed one which they might single out if they
pleased they recived his bone, and lost on the other as they hapened to
fail in guessing the also lose one if they fail guessing both The game
is plaid at different numbers & each party has 5 sticks. Several of
those games were played to day in which the Skillute won, indeed the
won all the beeds and Som robes of the Skad datts which they _____ one
other game which they also played _____ 2 by men with 4 Sticks. 2 black
& 2 White under a kind of hat made of bark. as this is a very intrecut
game I cannot describe it: the one who holds the Sticks places them in
different positions, and the opposit party, guess the position of the
black Sticks by a motion of either one or both of the hands. each man
has 4 Sticks. this as also the other is accompanied with a kind of
Song. This hat is about 12 inches diamuter and the Sticks about 5
inches long---at 3 P M Sergt Ordway arived with 3 men from Capt Lewis
with elk skins and Some fiew articles Such as a Coat & robes. I had 3
dogs purchased, Soon after Capt. Lewis Came up with J. Fields he had
assended the river with much dificuelty to the bason 2 Miles below. I
left Drewyer, Warner, Shannon & Goodrich with the articles and went
down with Capt Lewis to the bason, Cut up 2 of our canoes for fire wood
no horses more maney nations resort here for trade
[Clark, April 18, 1806]
Friday 18th April 1806
Early this Morning I was awoke by an indian man of the Chopunnish
Nation who informed me that he lived in the neighbourhood of our
horses. this man delivered me a bag of powder and ball which he had
picked up this morning at the place the goods were exposed yesterday I
had a fire made of Some poles purchased of the nativs at a Short
distance from the houses and the articles exposed as yesterday.
Collected the 4 horses purchased yesterday and Sent Frazier and Shabono
with them to the bason where I expected they would meet Cap L-s and
Commence the portage of the baggage on those horses. about 10 A.M. the
Indians Came down from the Eneesher Villages and I expected would take
the articles which they had laid by yesterday. but to my estonishment
not one would make the exchange to day-. two other parcels of good were
laid by and the horses promised at 2 P.M. I payed but little attention
to this bargain however Suffered the bundles to lye. I dressed the
Sores of the principal Chief gave Some Small things to his children and
promised the Chief Some Medicine for to Cure his Sores. his wife who I
found to be a Sulky Bitch and was Somewhat efflicted with pains in her
back. this I thought a good oppertunity to get her on my Side giveing
here Something for her back. I rubed a little Camphere on her temples
and back, and applyed worm flannel to her back which She thought had
nearly restored her to her former feelings. this I thought a favourable
time to trade with the Chief who had more horses than all the nation
besides. I accordingly made him an offer which he excepted and Sold me
two horses. Great numbers of Indians from defferent derections visited
me at this place to day, none of them appeared willing to part with
their horses, but told me that Several were Comeing from the plains
this evening. among other Nations who visit this place for the purpose
of trade is the Skad-datt's. those people bantered the Skillutes to
play at a Singular kind of game. in the Course of the day the Skillutes
won all their beeds Skins arrows &c. This game was Composed of 9 men on
a Side. they Set down opposit to each other at the distance of about 10
feet. in front of each party a long pole was placed on which they
Struck with a Small Stick to the time of their Songs. after the bets
were made up which was nearly half an hour after they Set down, two
round bones was producd about the Size of a mans little finger or
Something Smaller and 21/4 inches in length. which they held in their
hand Changeing it from one hand to the other with great dexterity. 2
men on the Same Side performed this part, and when they had the bone in
the hand they wished, they looked at their advosarys Swinging arms
around their Sholders for their advosary Guess which they pirformed by
the motion the hand either to the right or left. if the opposit party
guessed the hand of both of the men who had the bone, the bones were
given to them. if neither the bones was retained and nothing Counted.
if they guessed one and not the other, one bone was dilivered up and
the party possessing the other bone Counted one. and one for every time
the advosary miss guessed untill they guessed the hand in which the
bone was in-in this game each party has 5 Sticks. and one Side wins all
the Sticks, once twice or thrice as the game may be Set. I observed
another game which those people also play and is played by 2 persons
with 4 Sticks about the Size of a mans finger and about 7 inches in
length. two of those Sticks are black and the other 2 White and
Something larger than the black ones. those Sticks they place in
defferent positions which they perform under a kind of trencher made of
bark round and about 14 inches diamieter. this is a very intricate game
and I cannot Sufficiently understand to discribe it. the man who is in
possession of the Sticks &c places them in defferent positions, and the
opposit party tels the position of the black Sticks by a motion of
either or both of his hands &c. this game is Counted in the Same way as
the one before mentioned. all their games are accompanied with Songs
and time. at 3 P. M Sergt. Ordway & three men arived from Cap Lewis
they brought with them Several Elk Skins, two of my Coats and 4 robes
of the party to add to the Stores I had with me for the purchase of
horses. Sgt. O. informed me that Cap L. had arived with all the Canoes
into the bason 2 miles below and wished Some dogs to eate. I had 3 dogs
purchased and Sent down. at 5 P.M. Capt. Lewis Came up. he informed me
that he had the river to the bason with much difecuelty and danger,
haveing made one portage. as I had not Slept but very little for the
two nights past on account of mice & virmen with which those indian
houses abounded, and haveing no blanket with me, and the means of
keeping a fire Sufficent to keep me worm out was too Expensive I
deturmined to proceed with Capt L. down to Camp at the bason. I left
the Articles of Merchendize &c. with Drewyer, Werner, Shannon &
Goodrich untill the morning---at the bason we Cut up two of our Canoes
for fire wood verry much to the Sagreen of the nativs not with standing
they would give us nothing for them. In my absence Several Inds.
visited Capt. Lewis at his camp among others was the great Cheif of the
Chilluckkitquaw who Continued with him untill he left Rock fort Camp.
Capt L. had 12 pack Saddles Completed and Strings prepared of the Elk
skins for Lashing the loads he also kept out all the hunters who killed
just deer enough for the party with him to Subsist on. The Cheif who
had Visited Capt Lewis promised him that he would bring Some horses to
the bason and trade with him. but he was not as good as his word. Capt
Lewis gave a large Kittle for a horse which was offered to him at the
bason this evening.
[Lewis, April 19, 1806]
Saturday Aprl. 19th 1806.
This morning early we had our small canoes drawn out, and employed all
hands in transporting our baggage on their backs and by means of the
four pack horses, over the portage. This labour we had accomplished by
3 P.M. and established our camp a little above the present Skil-lute
village which has been removed a few hundred yards lower down the river
than when we passed them last fall and like others below have the
floors of their summer dwellings on the surface of the earth instead of
those cellars in which they resided when we passed them. there was
great joy with the natives last night in consequence of the arrival of
the salmon; one of those fish was caught; this was the harbinger of
good news to them. they informed us that these fish would arrive in
great quantities in the course of about 5 days. this fish was dressed
and being divided into small peices was given to each child in the
village. this custom is founded in a supersticious opinon that it will
hasten the arrival of the salmon. with much difficulty we obtained four
other horses from the Indians today, we wer obliged to dispence with
two of our kettles in order to acquire those. we have now only one
small kettle to a mess of 8 men. in the evening Capt. Clark set out
with four men to the Enesher village at the grand falls in order to
make a further attempt to procure horses. these people are very
faithless in their contracts. they frequently receive the merchandize
in exchange for their horses and after some hours insist on some
additional article being given them or revoke the exchange. they have
pilfered several small articles from us this evening.--I directed the
horses to be hubbled & suffered to graize at a little distance from our
camp under the immediate eye of the men who had them in charge. one of
the men Willard was negligent in his attention to his horse and
suffered it to ramble off; it was not to be found when I ordered the
others to be brought up and confined to the picquits. this in addition
to the other difficulties under which I laboured was truly provoking. I
repremanded him more severely for this peice of negligence than had
been usual with me. I had the remaining horses well secured by
picquits; they were extreemly wrestless and it required the attention
of the whole guard through the night to retain them notwithstanding
they were bubbled and picquted. they frequently throwed themselves by
the ropes by which they were confined. all except one were stone horse
for the people in this neighbourhood do not understand the art of
gelding them, and this is a season at which they are most vicious. many
of the natives remained about our camp all night.
[Clark, April 19, 1806]
April 19th 1806
this morning early Some rain had the Small Canoes hauled out to dry
every man Capable of Carrying a load Comencd the portage and by 5 P. M
had every part of our baggage and canoes across the portage. I then
took Sgt. Pryor, G. Shannon & Crusat & Labiech and went up to the falls
at which place I arivd. about 8 P.M. in the Course of this day I
purchased 4 horses at the town & Capt Lewis purchased one. the nativs
finding that we were about to proceed on by water Sold us those fiew
horses for which we were Compd. to pay them emence prices and the
horses were indefferent. Several Showers of rain this day. description
of those people &c narrows bad
[Clark, April 19, 1806]
Saturday 19th April 1806.
We deturmined to make the portage to the head of the long narrows with
our baggage and 5 Small Canoes, the 2 large Canoes we Could take no
further and therefore Cut them up for fuel. we had our Small Canoes
drawn up very early and employed all hands in transporting our baggage
on their backs and by means of 4 pack horses, over the portage. This
labour we had accomplished by 3 P.M. and established our Camp a little
above the present Skillute village which has been removed as before
observed a fiew hundred yards lower down the river than when we passed
it last fall. I left Capt L. at the bason and proceeded to the village
early this morning with a view to recive the horses which were promised
to be brought this morning for articles laid by last evining. in the
Course of this day I purchased four horses at the Village, and Capt
Lewis one at the bason before he left it. after the baggage was all
Safely landed above the portage, all hands brought over the Canoes at 2
lodes which was accomplished by 5 P.M. as we had not a Sufficiency of
horses to transport our baggage we agreed that I should proceed on to
the Enesher villages at the great falls of the Columbia and if possible
purchase as maney horses as would transport the baggage from that
place, and rid us of the trouble and dificuelty of takeing our Canoes
further. I set out with Serjt Pryor, Geo Shannon Peter Crusat & Labiech
at half past 5 P.M. for the Enesher Village at which place I arrived at
8 P.M. Several Showers of rain in the after part of to day, and the S W
wind very high. there was great joy with the nativs last night in
consequence of the arrival of the Salmon; one of those fish was cought,
this was the harbenger of good news to them. They informed us that
those fish would arive in great quantities in the Course of about 5
days. this fish was dressed and being divided into Small pieces was
given to each Child in the village. this Custom is founded on a
Supersticious opinion that it will hasten the arrival of the Salmon.
we were oblige to dispence with two of our kitties in order to acquire
two of the horses purchasd. to day. we have now only one Small kittle
to a mess of 8 men. These people are very fathless in Contracts; they
frequently reive the merchindize in exchange for their horses and after
Some hours insist on Some additional article being given them or revoke
the exchange.
The long narrows are much more formadable than they were when we
decended them last fall, there would be no possibility of passing
either up or down them in any vessle at this time.
I entered the largest house of the Eneeshers village in which I found
all the enhabitents in bead. they rose and made a light of Straw, they
haveing no wood to burn. many men Collected. we Smoked and I informed
them that I had come to purchase a fiew horses of them. they promused
to Sell me Some in the morning.
[Lewis, April 20, 1806]
Sunday April 20th 1806.
some frost this morning. The Enesher an Skillutes are much better clad
than they were last fall, there men have generally legings mockersons
and large robes; many of them wear shirts of the same form with those
of the Shoshone Chopunnish &c highly ornamented with porcupine quills.
the dress of their women differs very little from those of the great
rapids and above. their children frequently wear robes of the large
grey squirrel skins, those of the men and women are principally deer
skins, some wolf, elk, bighorn and buffaloe; the latter they procure
from the nations who sometimes visit the Missouri. indeed a
considerable poportion of their wearing apparel is purchased from their
neighbours to the N. W. in exchange for pounded fish copper and beads.
at present the principal village of the Eneshur is below the falls on
the N. side of the river. one other village is above the falls on the
S. side and another a few miles above on the N. side. the first
consists of 19, the 2cd of 11, and the 3rd of 5 lodges. their houses
like those of the Skillutes have their floors on the surface of the
ground, but are formed of sticks and covered with mats and straw. they
are large and contain usually several families each for fuel they use
straw, small willows and the southern wood. they use the silk grass in
manufacturing their fishing nets and bags, the bear grass and cedar
bark are employed in forming a variety of articles. they are poor,
dirty, proud, haughty, inhospitable, parsimonious and faithless in
every rispect, nothing but our numbers I beleive prevents their
attempting to murder us at this moment.
This morning I was informed that the natives had pilfered six
tommahawks and a knife from the party in the course of the last night.
I spoke to the cheif on this subject. he appeared angry with his people
and addressed them but the property was not restored. one horse which I
had purchased and paid for yesterday and which could not be found when
I ordered the horses into close confinement yesterday I was now
informed had been gambled away by the rascal who had sold it to me and
had been taken away by a man of another nation. I therefore took the
goods back from this fellow. I purchased a gun from the cheif for which
I gave him 2 Elkskins. in the course of the day I obtained two other
indifferent horses for which I gave an extravigant price. I found that
I should get no more horses and therefore resolved to proceed tomorrow
morning with those which I had and to convey the baggage in two small
canoes that the horses could not carry. for this purpose I had a load
made up for seven horses, the eighth Bratton was compelled to ride as
he was yet unable to walk. I barted my Elkskins old irons and 2 canoes
for beads. one of the canoes for which they would give us but little I
had cut up for fuel. These people have yet a large quantity of dryed
fish on hand yet they will not let us have any but for an exorbitant
price. we purchased two dogs and some shappellel from them. I had the
horses graized untill evening and then picquited and bubbled within the
limits of our camp. I ordered the indians from our camp this evening
and informed them that if I caught them attempting to perloin any
article from us I would beat them severely. they went off in reather a
bad humour and I directed the party to examine their arms and be on
their guard. they stole two spoons from us in the course of the day.
The Scaddals, Squan-nan-os, Shan-wah-purrs and Shallattas reside to the
N. W. of these people, depend on hunting deer and Elk and trade with
these people for ther pounded fish.
[Clark, April 20, 1806]
April 20th 1806
This morning very Cold hills covered with Snow. I Showed the nativs
what I had to give for their horses and attempted to purchase them.
they informed me that they would not Sell any horses to me, that their
horses were at a long ways off and they would not trade them. my offer
was a blue robe, Callico Shirt, a handkerchef, 5 parcels of paint a
Knife, a wampom moon 4 braces of ribin, a pice of Brass and about 6
braces of yellow heeds; and to that amount for what I had I also
offered my large blue blanket for one, my Coat Sword & Plume none of
which Seem to entice those people to give horses if they had any. they
Set in their huts which is of mats Supported on poles without fire. at
night when they wish a light they burn dry Straw & Some fiew Small dry
willows. they Speak defferent from those below, have but little to
eate. Some roots & Dryed fish is to be found in their houses. I am half
frozed at this inhospitable Village which is moved from its position
above the falls to one below and Contains 19 large houses, a village is
also established on the other Side imedeately above the falls. all the
natives who was established above the Falls for Some distance has
removed Those people are much better dressed than they were at the time
we went down the river. They have all new, Deer, Elk, Ibex Goat & wolf
Skin robes, their Children also the large squirel Skin robes, maney of
them have Legins and mockersons, all of which they precure of the
Indians at a distance in exchange for their pounded fish & Beeds, they
also purchase Silk grass, of which they make their nets & Sales for
takeing fish they also purchase Bear grass and maney other things for
their fish. those people gave me roots and berries prepared in
different ways for which I gave some Small articles in return.-Great
numbers of Skiming knets on their houses. Those people are Pore and
Kind durty & indolt. They ware their hair loose flowing the men cut in
the foward which the Skilloots do not &c. &c.
I could not precure a Single horse of those people, dureing this day at
any price, they offered me 2 for 2 kittles of which we Could not spear.
I used every artifice decent & even false Statements to enduce those
pore devils to Sell me horses. in the evening two different men offered
to Sell me three horses which they informed me was a little distance
off and they would bring them imediately. those two persons as I found
went imediately off up the river to their tribe without any intention
to find or Sell their horses. a little before Sunset 3 men arived from
Some distance above and informed me that they Came to See me. at Sunset
finding no probability of Capt Lewis arival, packed up the articles and
took them into the lodge in which I lay last night. Great numbers of
those people geathered around me to Smoke. I gave them 2 pipes and lay
down in the back part of the house with Sgt. P. & the men with our arms
in a Situation as to be ready in case of any alarm. those pore people
appear entirely harmless--I purchased a dog and Some wood with a little
pounded fish and Chappaless. made a fire on the rocks and Cooked the
dogs on which the men breckfast & Dined. wind hard all day cold from N
W.
[Clark, April 20, 1806]
Sunday 20th April 1806
a very cold morning the western mountains Covered with Snow I Shewed
the Eneshers the articles I had to give for their horses. they without
hezitation informed me that they would not Sell me any for the articles
I had, if I would give them Kitties they would let me have horses, and
not without. that their horses were at a long ways off in the planes
and they would not Send for them &c. my offer was a blue robe, a
Calleco Shirt, a Silk handkerchief, 5 parcels of paint, a knife, a
Wampom moon, 8 yards of ribon, Several pieces of Brass, a mockerson awl
and 6 braces of yellow beeds; and to that amount for each horse which
is more than double what we gave either the Sohsohne or first flat
heads we met with on Clarks river I also offered my large blue blanket,
my Coat Sword & plume none of which Seamed to entice those people to
Sell their horses. not with standing every exertion not a Single horse
Could be precured of those people in the Course of the day. Those
people are much better Clad than they were last fall, their men have
generally legins mockersons and large robes. maney of them ware Shirts
of the Same form of those of the Chopunnish and Shoshone highly
ornimented with porcupine quills. the dress of their winen differs
verry little from those above the great rapids. their Children have
Small robes of the Squirel Skins. those of the men & women are
principally deer, Some elk, wolf, Ibix & buffalow which they precure
from distant nations who purchase their Pounded fish in exchange for
those robes & Beeds. The principal village of the Enesher nation is
imedeately below the falls on the N. Side. one other village of the
Same nation above the falls on the opposit Side and one other a few
miles above on the North Side.--The Houses of those people like the
Skillutes have the flores of their Summer dwelling on the Surface of
the earth in Sted of those Sellers in which they resided when we passed
them last fall. those houses are Covered with mats and Straw are large
and Contain Several families each. I counted 19 at this Village & 11 on
the opposit Side. those people are pore durty haughty. they burn Straw
and Small willows. have but little to eate and deer with what they
have. they precure the Silk grass of which they make their nets, the
bear grass for makeing their mats and Several other necessary of the
Indians of the following nations who trade with them as also the
Skillutes for their pounded fish. Viz. Skad-dats, Squan-nun-os,
Shan-wappoms, Shall-lat-tos, who reside to the north and Several bands
who reside on the Columbia above.--I precured a Sketch of the Columbia
and its branches of those people in which they made the river which
falls into the Columbia imediately above the falls on the South Side to
branch out into 3 branches one of which they make head in Mt.jefferson,
one in mount Hood and the other in the S W. range of Mountains and does
not water that extensive Country we have heretofore Calculated on. a
great portion of that extensive tract of Country to the S. and S. W. of
the Columbia and Lewis's river and between the Same and the waters of
Callifornia must be watered by the Multnomah river.--See Sketch in the
latter part of this book (No. 5). Those people are great jokies and
deciptfull in trade.
at Sunset finding that Capt Lewis would not arrive this evening as I
expected, I packed up all the articles which I had exposed, at a
Situation I had pitched on to Encamp, and at which place we had bought
as maney fishing poles as made a fire to Cook a dog which I had
purchased for the men to eate, and returned to the lodge which I had
Slept in last night. great number gathered around me to Smoke, I gave
them two pipes, and then lay my self down with the men to Sleep,
haveing our merchendize under our heads and guns &c in our arms, as we
always have in Similar Situations
[Lewis, April 21, 1806]
Monday April 21st 1806.
Notwithstanding all the precautions I had taken with rispect to the
horses one of them had broken his cord of 5 strands of Elkskin and had
gone off spanseled. I sent several men in surch of the horse with
orders to return at 10 A.M. with or without the horse being determined
to remain no longer with these villains. they stole another tomahawk
from us this morning I surched many of them but could not find it. I
ordered all the spare poles, paddles and the ballance of our canoe put
on the fire as the morning was cold and also that not a particle should
be left for the benefit of the indians. I detected a fellow in stealing
an iron socket of a canoe pole and gave him several severe blows and
mad the men kick him out of camp. I now informed the indians that I
would shoot the first of them that attempted to steal an article from
us. that we were not affraid to fight them, that I had it in my power
at that moment to kill them all and set fire to their houses, but it
was not my wish to treat them with severity provided they would let my
property alone. that I would take their horses if I could find out the
persons who had stolen the tommahawks, but that I had reather loose the
property altogether than take the hose of an inosent person. the chiefs
were present hung their heads and said nothing. at 9 A.M. Windsor
returned with the lost horse, the others who were in surch of the horse
soon after returned also. the Indian who promised to accompany me as
far as the Chopunnish country produced me two horses one of which he
politely gave me the liberty of packing. we took breakfast and departed
a few minutes after 10 OClock. having nine horses loaded and one which
Bratton rode not being able as yet to march; the two canoes I had
dispatched early this morning. at 1 P.M. I arrived at the Enesher
Village where I found Capt Clark and party; he had not purchased a
single horse. he informed me that these people were quite as unfriendly
as their neighbours the Skillutes, and that he had subsisted since he
left me on a couple of platters of pounded roots and fish which an old
man had the politeness to offer him. his party fared much better on
dogs which he purchased from those people. the man resided here from
whom I had purchased the horse which ran off from me yesterday. I had
given him a large kettle and a knife in exchange for that horse which I
informed him should be taken from him unles he produced me the lost
horse or one of equal value in his stead, the latter he prefered and
produced me a very good horse which I very cheerfully received. we soon
made the portage with our canoes and baggage and halted about 1/2 a
mile above the Village where we graized our horses and took dinner on
some dogs which we purchased of these people. after dinner we proceeded
on about four miles to a village of 9 mat lodges of the Enesher a
little below the entrance of Clark's river and encamped; one of the
canoes joined us the other not observing us halt continued on. we
obtained two dogs and a small quantity of fuel of these people for
which we were obliged to give a higher price than usual. our guide
continued with us, he appears to be an honest sincere fellow. he tells
us that the indians a little above will treat us with much more
hospitality than those we are now with. we purchased another horse this
evening but his back is in such a horid state that we can put but
little on him; we obtained him for a trifle, at least for articles
which might be procured in the U States for 10 shillings Virga Cory.-
we took the precaution of piquting and spanseling our horses this
evening near our camp.
[Clark, April 21, 1806]
April 21st 1806
a fair Cold morning. I find it useless to offer any articles or attempt
to trade at this village and therefore deturmine to ____ before I rose
the house was Crouded with Indians to Smoke I gave them none. they are
well Supplied with Straw & bark bags ready to hold their pounded fish.
at 12 oClock the advance of the party from below arived and Soon after
the Canoes all things were taken above the falls & 2 Canoes, turned out
the horss and Cooked & Eat 2 dogs which we purchased of the nativs,
purchased one horse for Which we are to give a Kittle which was given
by us to a man for a horse 3 days past &c. the horse was either taken
or Strayed off. The Chief from below Came up and appeared Concerned for
what had been done at his Village (See Journal)
a 4 P M loaded up & Set out the Canoes also proceed on about 3 miles
opposit to the Mouth of Clarks river, and an Indian man who has
attached himself to us and who has lent us a horse to pack & lives near
the Rocky mountains. he told us that as the day was far Spent we had
better Camp at a village of 9 Lodges a little off the road opsd. the
River CClarks This river has a great falls above 2 forks on its West
Side. we formed a Camp purchased Some wood & 3 dogs for which we gave
pewter buttons which buttons we had made &c. but fiew Indians with us
this evining purchased an old horse and tied up all the horses when we
went to bed
Those are the Same people with those below at the falls. See journal
for the next day-
Skad data ill looking people reside to the N about 18 or 20 miles they
played against the Skillutes a game they Call ____ 9 of a Side and lost
all the beeds & other articles
also a Single game with 2 black & 2 white Sticks under a kind of hat. 2
men played this game is intricit and each party has 4 pegs to count it
The former game is played with 2 bones or Sticks about the Size of a
large quill and 2 inches long passing from one hand to the other and
the adverse party guess. See description before mentioned. The nations
abov at the falls also play this game and bet high
[Clark, April 21, 1806]
Monday 21st April 1806
A fair Cold morning I found it useless to make any further attempts to
trade horses with those unfriendly people who only Crouded about me to
view and make their remarks and Smoke, the latter I did not indulge
them with to day. at 12 oClock Capt Lewis and party Came up from the
Skillutes Village with 9 horses packed and one which bratten who was
yet too weak to walk, rode, and Soon after the two Small Canoes also
loaded with the residue of the baggage which Could not be taken on
horses. we had everry thing imedeately taken above the falls, in the
mean time purchased 2 Dogs on which the party dined--whilst I remained
at the Enesher Village I Subsisted on 2 platters of roots, Some pounded
fish and Sun flour Seed pounded which an old man had the politeness to
give me. in return for which I gave him Several Small articles-.
Capt Lewis informed me that imedeately after I left him the nativs
began to Steal and had Stolen Tomahawks of the party, and in the Course
of the night had let our horses loose he had burnt one and Sold 2 of
the largest Canoes for beeds, the other 2 brought on. an indian was
detected in Stealing a socket and was kicked out of Camp. Capt L.
informed the Indians that the next man who attempted to steal Should be
Shot and thretened them and informed them that he could kill them in a
moment and Set their town on fire if he pleased. but it was not his
desire to hurt them Severly if they would let the property of the party
alone. the Chiefs hung their heads and Said nothing. he lost the horse
that was given for a large kittle, and a Chopunnish man lent a horse to
carry a load and accompanied the party--The man who we had reason to
believe had Stolen the horse he had given for the Kittle we thretend a
little and he produced a very good horse in the place of that one which
we Chearfully receved.
after dinner we proceeded on about 4 Miles to a Village of 9 Mat Lodges
of the Enesher, a little below the enterance of To war nah hi ooks
river and encamped. one of the Canoes joined us, the other not haveing
observed us halt continued on. We obtained 2 Dogs and a Small quantity
of fuel of those people for which we were obliged to give a higher
price than usial. our guide continued with us, he appears to be an
honest fellow. he tels us that the indians above will treat us with
much more hospitallity than those we are now with. we purchased another
horse this evening but his back is in Such a horrid State that we Can
put but little on him; we obtained him for a triffle, at least for
articles which might be precured in the U. States for 10/-virga.
Currency--we took the precaution of picqueting and Spancelling our
horses this evening near our Camp. the evening Cold and we Could afford
only one fire.
[Lewis, April 22, 1806]
Tuesday April 22cd 1806.
Last night two of our horses broke loos from the picquits and straggled
off some little distance, the men who had charge of them fortunately
recovered them early. at 7 A.M. we set out having previously sent on
our small Canoe with Colter and Potts. we had not arrived at the top of
a hill over which the road leads opposite the village before Charbono's
horse threw his load, and taking fright at the saddle and robe which
still adhered, ran at full speed down the hill, near the village he
disengaged himself from the saddle and robe, an indian hid the robe in
his lodge. I sent our guide and one man who was with me in the rear to
assist Charbono in retaking his horse which having done they returned
to the village on the track of the horse in surch of the lost articles
they found the saddle but could see nothing of the robe the indians
denyed having seen it; they then continued on the track of the horse to
the place from whence he had set out with the same success. being now
confident that the Indians had taken it I sent the Indian woman on to
request Capt. C. to halt the party and send back some of the men to my
assistance being determined either to make the indians deliver the robe
or birn their houses. they have vexed me in such a manner by such
repeated acts of villany that I am quite disposed to treat them with
every severyty, their defenseless state pleads forgivness so far as
rispects their lives. with this resolution I returned to their village
which I had just reached as Labuish met me with the robe which he
informed me he found in an Indian lodg hid behind their baggage. I now
returned and joined Capt Clark who was waiting my arrival with the
party. the Indian woman had not reached Capt C. untill about the time I
arrived and he returned from a position on the top of a hill not far
from where he had halted the party. from the top of this emmenense
Capt. C. had an extensive view of the country. he observed the range of
mountains in which Mount Hood stands to continue nearly south as far as
the eye could reach. he also observed the snow clad top of Mount
Jefferson which boar S. 10 W. Mount Hood from the same point boar S. 30
W. the tops of the range of western mountains are covered with snow.
Capt C. also discovered some timbered country in a Southern direction
from him at no great distance. Clarks river which mouths immediately
opposite this point of view forks at the distance of 18 or 20 miles
from hence, the wright hand fork takes it rise in mount Hood, and the
main branch continues it's course to the S. E.
we now made the following regulations as to our future order of march
(viz) that Capt. C. & myself should devide the men who were
disencumbered by horses and march alternately each day the one in front
and the other in rear. haveing divided the party agreeably to this
arrangement, we proceeded on through an open plain country about 8
miles to a village of 6 houses of the Eneshur nation, here we observed
our 2 canoes passing up on the opposite side; the wind being too high
for them to pass the river they continued on. we halted at a small run
just above the village where we dined on some dogs which we purchased
of the inhabitants and suffered our horses to graize about three hours.
there is no timber in this country we are obliged to purchase our fuel
of the natives, who bling it from a great distance. while we halted for
dinner we purch a horse. after dinner we proceeded on up the river
about 4 miles to a village of 7 mat lodges of the last mentioned
nation. here our Chopunnish guide informed us that the next village was
at a considerable distance and that we could not reach it tonight. the
people at this place offered to sell us wood and dogs, and we therefore
thought it better to remain all night. a man blonging to the next
village abovd proposed exchanging a horse for one of our canoes, just
at this moment one of our canoes was passing. we hailed them and
ordered them to come over but the wind continued so high that they
could not join us untill after sunset and the Indian who wished to
exchange his horse for the canoe had gone on. Charbonoe purchased a
horse this evening. we obtained 4 dogs and as much wood as answered our
purposes on moderate terms. we can only afford ourselves one fire, and
are obliged to lie without shelter, the nights are cold and days warm.-
Colter and Pots had passed on with their canoe.
[Clark, April 22, 1806]
Tuesday 22nd of April 1806
last night 2 of our horses broke loose and Strayed of at a Short
dis-tance. at 7 oClock we loaded up and Set out, haveing previously
Sent off the Canoe with Colter and Potts we had not arived at the top
of the hill which is 200 feet before Shabonos horse threw off his load
and went with great Speed down the hill to the Village where he
disengaged himself of his Saddle & the robe which was under it, the
Indians hid the robe and delayed Capt. Lewis and the rear party Some
time before they found the robe which was in a lodge hid behind their
baggage, and took possession of it. dureing the time the front of the
party was waiting for Cap Lewis, I assended a high hill from which I
could plainly See the range of Mountains which runs South from Mt. Hood
as far as I could See. I also discovered the top of Mt. Jefferson which
is Covered with Snow and is S to W. Mt. Hood is S. 30° W. the range of
mountains are Covered with timber and also Mt Hood to a sertain bite.
The range of Mountains has Snow on them. I also discovered some
timbered land in a S. detection from me, Short of the mountains. Clarks
river which mouthes imedeately opposit to me forks at about 18 or 20
miles, the West fork runs to the Mt Hood and the main branch Runs from
S. E. after Capt Lewis Came up we proceeded on through a open ruged
plain about 8 miles to a Village of 6 Houses on the river. here we
observed our 2 Canoes passing up on the opposit Side and the Wind too
high for them to join us. I halted at the mouth of a run above the
village near Some good grass to let the horses graze and for the party
to dine. Sent to the huts and purchased a dog & Some wood. dureing the
time the party was takeing diner we purchased one horse. after we
proceeded on up the river about 4 miles to a village of 7 mat Lodges.
here our Chopunnish guide informed me that the next villg. was at Some
distance and that we Could not get to it to night, and that there was
no wood to be precured on this Side. a man offered to Sell us a horse
for a Canoe. just at the moment we discovered one of our Canoes on the
opposit Side. we concluded to Camp here all night with the expectation
of precureing some horses. Sent and purchased Some wood and 4 dogs &
Shapillele. Shabono purchased a hors for which he gave a red rapper,
Shirt, ploom & Tomahawk &c. the party purchased a great quantity of
Chapellell and Some berries for which they gave bits of Tin and Small
pieces of Cloth & wire &c. had our horses led out and held to grass
untill dusk when they were all brought to Camp, and pickets drove in
the ground and the horses tied up. we find the horses very troublesom
perticularly the Stud which Compose 10/13 of our number of horses. the
air I find extreemly Cold which blows Continularly from Mt. Hoods
Snowey regions. those Indians reside in Small Lodges built of the mats
of Grass, flags &c. and Crouded with inhabitents, who Speak a language
Somewhat different from those at the falls. their dress habits and
appearance appear to be very much the Same with those below. we made 14
miles to day with the greatest exirtion. Serjt. Gass & R. Fields joined
us with one Canoe this evening. the other Canoe with Colter & pots is a
head.
[Lewis, April 23, 1806]
Wednesday April 23rd 1806.
At day light this morning we were informed that the two horses of our
Interpreter Charbono were absent; on enquiry it appeared that he had
neglected to confine them to picquts as had been directed last evening.
we immediately dispatched Reubin Feilds and Labuish to assist Charbono
in recovering his horses. one of them was found at no great distance
and the other was given over as lost. at 8 A.M. Reuben Feilds and
Sergt. Gass proceeded in the canoe. at 10 Labuish and Charbono returned
unsuccessfull, they had gone back on the road nearly to the last
village and suched the plains on either hand to a considerable
distance. our remaining longer would have prevented our making a timely
stage which in our situation is all important; we therefore determined
to proceed immediately to the next village which from the information
of our guide will occupy the greater part of the day to reach at eleven
OCk. we loaded our horses and set out. during the time we were detained
this morning we had two packsaddles made. we continued our march along
a narrow rocky bottom on the N. side of the river about 12 miles to the
Wah-how-pum Village of 12 temperary mat lodges near the Rock rapid.
these people appeared much pleased to see us, sold us 4 dogs and some
wood for our small articles which we had previously prepared as our
only resource to obtain fuel and food through those plains. these
articles conisted of pewter buttons, strips of tin iron and brass,
twisted wire &c. we also obtained some shap-pe-lell newly made from
these people. here we met with a Chopunnish man on his return up the
river with his family and about 13 head of horses most of them young
and unbroken. he offered to hire us some of them to pack as far a his
nation, but we prefer bying as by hireing his horses we shal have the
whole of his family most probably to mentain. at a little distance
below this village we passed five lodges of the same people who like
those were waiting the arrival of the salmon. after we had arranged our
camp we caused all the old and brave men to set arround and smoke with
us. we had the violin played and some of the men danced; after which
the natives entertained us with a dance after their method. this dance
differed from any I have yet seen. they formed a circle and all sung as
well the spectators as the dancers who performed within the circle.
these placed their sholders together with their robes tightly drawn
about them and danced in a line from side to side, several parties of
from 4 to seven will be performing within the circle at the same time.
the whole concluded with a premiscuous dance in which most of them sung
and danced. these people speak a language very similar to the
Chopunnish whome they also resemble in their dress their women wear
long legings mockersons shirts and robes. their men also dress with
legings shirts robes and mockersons. after the dance was ended the
Indians retired at our request and we retired to rest. we had all our
horses side bubbled and turned out to graize; at this village, a large
creek falls in on the N. side which we did not observe as we decended
the river. the river is by no means as rapid as when we decended or at
least not obstructed with those dangerous rapids the water at present
covers most of the rocks in the bed of the river. the natives promised
to barter their horses with us in the morning we therefore entertained
a hope that we shall be enabled to proceede by land from hence with the
whole of our party and baggage. came 12 miles by land. the sands made
the march fatieguing.-
[Clark, April 23, 1806]
Wednesday 23rd 1806
at day light this morning we were informed that the two horses of our
interpreter Shabono were missing on enquirey we were informed that he
had neglected to tie up his horses as derected last evening. we
imedeately dispatch him, R. Fields & Labiech in Serch of the horses,
one of them were found at no great distance. the other was not found.
R. Fields retd. without finding the horse Set out with Sergt Gass in
the Small Canoe at about 8 A M. at 10 Shabono and Labiech returned also
unsucksessfull they had went on the back trail nearly to the last
Village and took a circle around on the hills. as our Situation was
Such that we Could not detain for a horse, which would prevent our
makeing a timely Stage which is a great object with us in those open
plains, we Concluded to give up the horse and proceed on to the next
village which we were informed was at Some distance and would take us
the greater part of the day. at 11 A.M. we packed up and Set out and
proceeded up on the N. Side of the Columbia on a high narrow bottom and
rockey for 12 miles to the Wah-how-pum village near the rock rapid of
12 temporary mat Lodges, those people appeared pleased to See us. they
Sold us 4 dogs Some Shapollell and wood for our Small articles Such as
awls pieces of Tin and brass. we passed Several Lodges on the bank of
the river where they were fixed waiting for the Salmon. I over took a
Choponish man whome I had Seen at the long, and who had found a bag of
our powder and brought it to me at that place. this man had his family
on the ____ and about 3 head of horses which appeared young and
unbroke. his spous as also that of the other gave me a Cake of
Chapellell and proceeded on with me to the Wah howpum Village and
formed his Camp near us. we Caused all the old & brave men to Set
around and Smoke with us. we Caused the fiddle to be played and Some of
the men danced. after them the nativs danced. they dance different from
any Indians I have Seen. they dance with their Sholders together and
pass from Side to Side, defferent parties passing each other, from 2 to
7. and 4 parties danceing at the Same time and Concluding the dance by
passing promiscuisly throu & beetween each other. after which we Sent
of the Indians and retired to bed. Those people Speak a language verry
Similal to the Chopunish and with a very inconsiderable difference.
their dress and appearance is more like those of the Great falls of the
Columbia. we had all our horses Side hobbled and let out to feed. at
this village a large Creek falls in on the N. Side which I had not
observed as I decended the river. the river is by no means as rapid as
it was at the time we decended. The nativs promised to give is a horse
for one of our Canoes. and offer to Sell us another for a Scarlet robe
which we have not at present. Shabono made a bargin with one of the
Indian men going with us, for a horse for Which he gave his Shirt. and
two of the leather Sutes of his wife. The Sand through which we walked
to day is So light that renders the march verry fatigueing. made 12
miles by land.
[Lewis, April 24, 1806]
Thursday April 24 th 1806.
We were up early this morning and dispatched the men in surch of our
horses, they were all found in a little time except McNeal's. we hired
an indian to surch for this horse it was one in the evening before he
returned with him. in the intermediate time we had 4 packsaddles made
purchased three horses of the Wah-howpums, and hired three others of
the Chopunnish man who accompanys us with his family and horses. we now
sold our canoes for a few strands of beads, loaded up and departed at 2
P.M. the natives had tantalized us with an exchange of horses for our
canoes in the first instance, but when they found that we had made our
arrangements to travel by land they would give us nothing for them I
determined to cut them in peices sooner than leave them on those terms,
Drewyer struck one of the canoes and split of a small peice with his
tommahawk, they discovered us determined on this subject and offered us
several strands of beads for each which were accepted. we proceeded up
the river between the hills and it's Northen shore. the road was rocky
and sandy alternately, the road difficult and fatiegu-ing. at 12 ms. we
arrived at a village of 5 lodges of the Met-cow-wes, having passed 4
lodges at 4 and 2 at 2 Ms. further. we ramined all night near the
Met-cow-we lodges about 2 miles below our encampment of the ____ of
October last; we purchased three dogs and some shappellel of these
people which we cooked with dry grass and willow boughs. many of the
natives pased and repassed us today on the road and behaved themselves
with distant rispect towards us. most of the party complain of the
soarness of their feet and legs this evening; it is no doubt caused by
walking over the rough stones and deep sands after bing for some months
passed been accustomed to a soft soil. my left ankle gives me much
pain. I baithed my feet in cold water from which I experienced
considerable releif. The curloos are abundant in these plains and are
now laying their eggs. saw the Kildee, the brown lizzard, and a Moonax
which the natives had petted. the winds which set from Mount Hood or in
a westerly direction are much more cold than those from the opposite
quarter. there are now no dews in these plains, and from the appearance
of the earth there appears to have been no rain for several weeks.--we
derected that the three horses which we purchased yesterday should be
bubbled and confined to a picqut, and that the others should be
disposed of in the same manner they were last evening.
[Clark, April 24, 1806]
Thursday 24th April 1806
rose early this morning and Sent out after the horses all of which were
found except McNeals which I hired an Indian to find and gave him a
Tomahawk had 4 pack Saddles made ready to pack the horses which we may
purchase. we purchased 3 horses, and hired 3 others of the Chopunnish
man who accompanies us with his family, and at 1 P.M. Set out and
proceeded on through a open Countrey rugid & Sandy between Some high
lands and the river to a village of 5 Lodges of the Met-cow-we band
haveing passed 4 Lodges at 4 miles and 2 Lodges at 6 miles. Great
numbers of the nativs pass us on hors back maney meet us and Continued
with us to the Lodges. we purchased 3 dogs which were pore, but the
fattest we Could precure, and Cooked them with Straw and dry willow. we
Sold our Canoes for a fiew Strands of beeds. the nativs had tantelized
us with an exchange of horses for our Canoes in the first instance, but
when they found that we had made our arrangements to travel by land
they would give us nothing for them. we Sent Drewyer to Cut them up, he
Struck one and Split her they discovered that we were deturmined to
destroy the Canoes and offered us Several Strans of beeds which were
acceptd most of the party Complain of their feet and legs this evening
being very Sore. it is no doubt Causd. by walking over the rough Stone
and deep Sand after being accustomed to a Soft Soil. my legs and feet
give me much pain. I bathed them in Cold water from which I experienced
Considerable relief. we directed that the 3 horses purchased yesterday
should be hobbled and confined to pickquets and that the others Should
be Hobbled & Spancled, and Strictly attended to by the guard made 12
miles to day.-
[Lewis, April 25, 1806]
Friday April 25th 1806.
This morning we collected our horses and set out at 9 A.M. and
proceeded on 11 ms. to the Village of the Pish-quit-pahs of 51 mat
lodges where we arrived at 2 P.M. purchased five dogs and some wood
from them and took dinner. this village contains about 7 hundred souls.
most of those people were in the plains at a distance from the river as
we passed down last fall, they had now therefore the gratification of
beholding whitemen for the first time. while here they flocked arround
us in great numbers tho treated us with much rispect. we gave two
medals of the small size to their two principal Cheifs who were pointed
out to us by our Chopunnish fellow traveller and were acknowledged by
the nation. we exposed a few old clothes my dirk and Capt. C's swoard
to barter for horses but were unsuccessfull these articles constitute
at present our principal stock in trade. the Pish-quit-pahs insisted
much on our remaining with them all night, but sudry reasons conspired
to urge our noncomplyance with their wishes. we passed one house or
reather lodge of the Metcowwees about a mile above our encampment of
the ____th of October last the Pish-quit-pahs, may be considered
hunters as well as fishermen as they spend the fall and winter months
in that occupation. they are generally pleasently featured of good
statue and well proportioned. both women and men ride extreemly well.
their bridle is usually a hair rope tyed with both ends to the under
jaw of the horse, and their saddle consists of a pad of dressed skin
stuffed with goats hair with wooden stirups. almost all the horses
which I have seen in possession of the Indians have soar backs. the
Pishquitpah women for the most part dress with short shirts which reach
to their knees long legings and mockersons, they also use large robes;
some of them weare only the truss and robe they brade their hair as
before discribed but the heads of neither male nor female of this tribe
are so much flattened as the nations lower down on this river. at 4
P.M. we set out accompanyed by eighteen or twenty of their young men on
horseback. we continued our rout about nine miles where finding as many
willows as would answer our purposes for fuel we encamped for the
evening. the country we passed through was much as that of yesterday.
the river hills are about 250 feet high and generally abrupt and
craggey in many places faced with a perpendicular and solid rock. this
rock is black and hard. leve plains extend themselves from the tops of
the river hills to a great distance on either side of the river. the
soil is not as fertile as about the falls, tho it produces a low grass
on which the horses feed very conveniently. it astonished me to seed
the order of their horses at this season of the year when I knew that
they had wintered on the dry grass of the plains and at the same time
road with greater severity than is common among ourselves. I did not
see a single horse which could be deemed poor and many of them were as
fat as seals. their horses are generally good. this evining after we
had encamped, we traded for two horses with nearly the same articles we
had offered at the village; these nags Capt. C. and myself intend
riding ourselves; haveing now a sufficiency to transport with ease all
our baggage and the packs of the men.--we killed six ducks in the
course of the day; one of them was of a speceis which I had never
before seen I therefore had the most material parts of it reserved as a
specimine, the leggs are yellow and feet webbed as those of the
duckandmallard. saw many common lizzards, several rattlesnakes killed
by the party, they are the same as those common to the U States. the
horned Lizzard is also common.--had the fiddle played at the request of
the natives and some of the men danced. we passed five lodges of the
Walldh wolldhs at the distance of 4 miles above the Pishquitpahs.
[Clark, April 25, 1806]
Friday 25th of April 1806
This morning we Collected our horses very conveniently and Set out at 9
A M and proceeded on to a village of Pish-quit-pahs of 52 mat Lodges 11
miles this village Contains about 700 Soles here we turned out our
horses and bought 5 dogs & some wood and dined here we met with a Chief
and gave him a Medal of the Small Size. we passed a house a little
above the place we encamped on the 20th of Octr. 1805. we offered to
purchase with what articles we had Such as old Clothes &c. emence
numbers of those Indians flocked about us and behaved with distant
respect towards us. we attempted to purchase Some horses without
Suckcess. at 4 P. M Set out. I was in the rear and had not proceeded
verry far before one of the horses which we had hired of the
Chopunnish, was taken from Hall who I had directed to ride. he had
fallen behind out of my sight at the time. we proceeded on about 9
miles through a Country Similar to that of yesterday and encamped below
the mouth of a Small Creek we passed at 4 miles a Village of 5 Mat
Lodges of the War-war-wa Tribe. We made a Chief and gave a medal to a
Chief of each of those two tribes. great numbers of the nativs
accompanied us to our encampmt. The Curloos are abundant in those
plains & are now laying their eggs. Saw the Kildee the brown Lizzard,
and a moonax which the nativs had petted. the Winds which Set from
mount hood or in a westwardly direction are much more cold than those
from any other quarter. there are no dews in these plains, and from the
appearance of the earth there appears to have been no rain for Several
Weeks. The pish-quit pahs may be considered as hunters as well as
fishermen as they Spend the fall & winter months in that occupation.
they are generally pleasently featured of good Statue and well
proportiond. both women and men ride extreamly well. their bridle is
usially a hair rope tied with both ends to the under jaw of the horse,
and their Saddles Consist of a pad of dressed Skin Stuffed with goats
hair with wooden Sturreps. almost all the horses I have Seen in the poss
ession of the Indians have Sore backs.
The pishquitpahs women for the most part dress with Short Shirts which
reach to their knees long legins, and mockersons, they also use long
robes; Some of them weare only the truss and robe, they brade their
hair as before discribed but the heads of neither the male nor female
of this tribe are So much flattend as the nativs lower down on this
river. we were accompd. by 18 or 20 young men on horsback. we Continued
our rout about 9 miles, where finding as maney Willows as would answer
our purpose for fuel we encamped for the night. the Country we passed
through was Sandy indifferent rocky and hills on the left. proceeded up
on the North Side the river hills are about 250 feet high & generally
abrupt and Craggey in maney places faced with a pirpendicular and Solid
rock. this rock is black and hard. leavel plains extend themselves from
the top of the river hills to a great distance on either Side of the
river. the Soil is not as fertile as about the falls tho it produces
low grass on which the horses feed very Conveniently. it astonished me
to See the order of their horses at this Season of the year when I know
they had wintered on dry grass of the plains and at the Same time rode
with greater Severity than is Common among ourselves. I did not See a
Single horse which Could be deemed pore, and maney of them were verry
fat. their horses are generally good. this evening after we had
encamped we traded for two horses with nearly the Same articles we had
offered at the Village. these Nags Capt. L-s and myself intend rideing
ourselves; haveing now a Sufficency to transport with ease all our
baggage and the packs of the men.--we killed 6 ducks in the course of
the day; one of them were of a Species I had never before Seen. the
legs yellow and feet wibbed as those of the duckinmallard. Saw great
numbers of Common Lizzard. Several rattle Snakes, killed by the party,
they are the Same as those Common to the U. States. the Horned Lizzard
is also Common.--a Chief over took us. we had the fiddle played by the
request of the nativs and Some of the men danced. I think those plains
are much more Sandy than any which I have Seen and the road is a bed of
loose Sand. made 20 miles.
[Lewis, April 26, 1806]
Saturday April 26th 1806.
This morning early we set forward and at the distance of three miles
entered a low level plain country of great extent. here the river hills
are low and receede a great distance from the river this low country
commenced on the S. side of the river about 10 miles below our
encampment of last evening. these plains are covered with a variety of
herbatious plants, grass, and three speceis of shrubs specimines of
which I have preserved. at the distance of twelve miles we halted near
a few willows which afforded us a sufficient quantity of fuel to cook
our dinner which consisted of the ballance of the dogs we had purchased
yesterday evening and some jirked Elk. we were overtaken today by
several families of the natives who were traveling up the river with a
number of horses; they continued with us much to our annoyance as the
day was worm the roads dusty and we could not prevent their horses from
crouding in and breaking our order of mach without using some acts of
severity which we did not wish to commit. after dinner we continued our
march through the level plain near the river 16 Ms. and encamped about
a mile below three lodges of the Wollah wollah nation, and about 7 Ms.
above our encampment of the 19 of October last. after we encamped a
little Indian boy caught several chubbs with a bone in this form which
he substituted for a hook. these fish were of about 9 inches long small
head large abdomen, small where the tail joined the body, the tail wide
long in proportion and forked. the back and ventral fins were
equadistant from the head and had each 10 bony rays, the fns next the
gills nine each and that near the tail 12. the upper exceeded the under
jaw, the latter is truncate at the extremity and the tonge and pallet
are smooth. the colour is white on the sides and belley and a blewish
brown on the back. the iris of the eye is of a silvery colour and puple
black.--we covered ourselves partially this evening from the rain by
means of an old tent.
[Clark, April 26, 1806]
Saturday April 26th 1806
This morning early we proceeded on and at the distance of three miles
entered a low leavel plain Country of great extent. here the river
hills are low and receed a great distance from the river this low
Country Comenced on the South Side about 10 miles below our Encampment
of the last night, those plains are Covered with a variety of
herbatious plants, Grass and 3 Species of Shrubs. at the distance of 12
miles halted near Some willows which afforded us a Sufficent quantity
of fuel to cook our dinner which Consisted of the ballance of the dogs
we had purchased yesterday evening and Some jerked Elk. we were over
taken to day by Several families of the nativs who were traveling up
the river with a Numr. of horses; they Continued with us much to our
ennoyance as the day was worm the roads dusty and we Could not prevent
their horses Crouding in and breaking our order of March without useing
Some acts of Severty which we did not wish to Commit. after dinner we
Continued our march through a leavel plain near the river 16 miles and
encamped about a mile below 3 Lodges of the fritened band of the Wallah
wallah nation, and about 7 miles above our encampment of the 19th of
Octr. last. after we encamped a little Indian boy Cought Several Chubbs
with a bone in this form which he Substituted for a hook. those fish
were of about 9 inches long. we Covered our Selves perfectly this
evening from the rain by means of an old tent. Saw a Goat and a Small
wolf at a distance to day. made 28 miles
[Lewis, April 27, 1806]
Sunday April 27th 1806.
This morning we were detained untill 9 A.M. in consequence of the
absence of one of Charbono's horses. the horse at length being
recovered we set out and at the distance of fifteen miles passed
through a country similar to that of yesterday; the hills at the
extremity of this distance again approach the river and are rocky
abrupt and 300 feet high. we ascended the hill and marched through a
high plain for 9 miles when we again returned to the river, I now
thought it best to halt as the horses and men were much fatiegued altho
had not reached the Wallah wollah village as we had been led to beleive
by our guide who informed us that the village was at the place we
should next return to the river, and the consideration of our having
but little provision had been our inducement to make the march we had
made this morning. we collected some of the dry stalks of weeds and the
stems of a shrub which resembles the southern wood; made a small fire
and boiled a small quantity of our jerked meat on which we dined; while
here the principal Cheif of the Wallahwallahs joined us with six men of
his nation. this Cheif by name Yel-lept had visited us on the morning
of the 19 of October at our encampment a little below this place; we
gave him at that time a small medal, and promised him a larger one on
our return. he appeared much gratifyed at seeng us return, invited us
to remain at his village three or four days and assured us that we
should be furnished with a plenty of such food as they had themselves;
and some horses to assist us on our journey. after our scanty repast we
continued our march accompanyed by Yellept and his party to the village
which we found at the distance of six miles situated on the N. side of
the river at the lower side of the low country about 12 ms. below the
entrance of Lewis's river. This Cheif is a man of much influence not
only in his own nation but also among the neighbouring tribes and
nations.--This Village consists of 15 large mat lodges. at present they
seem to subsist principally on a speceis of mullet which weigh from one
to three lbs. and roots of various discriptions which these plains
furnish them in great abundance. they also take a few salmon trout of
the white kind.--Yellept haranged his village in our favour intreated
them to furnish us with fuel and provision and set the example himself
by bringing us an armfull of wood and a platter of 3 roasted mullets.
the others soon followed his example with rispect to fuel and we soon
found ourselves in possession of an ample stock. they birn the stems of
the shrubs in the plains there being no timber in their neighbourhood
of any discription. we purchased four dogs of these people on which the
party suped heartily having been on short allowance for near two days.
the indians retired when we requested them this evening and behaved
themselves in every rispect extreemly well. the indians informed us
that there was a good road which passed from the columbia opposite to
this village to the entrance of the Kooskooske on the S. side of
Lewis's river; they also informed us, that there were a plenty of deer
and Antelopes on the road, with good water and grass. we knew that a
road in that direction if the country would permit would shorten our
rout at least 80 miles. the indians also informed us that the country
was level and the road good, under these circumstances we did not
hesitate in pursuing the rout recommended by our guide whos information
was corroberated by Yellept & others. we concluded to pass our horses
over early in the morning.
[Clark, April 27, 1806]
Sunday April 27th 1806.
This morning we were detained untill 9 A M in consequence of the
absence of one of Shabono's horses. the horse being at length recovered
we Set out and to the distance of 15 miles passed through a Country
Similar to that of yesterday. (passed Muscle Shell rapid) and at the
experation of this distance again approached the river, and are rocky
abrupt and 300 feet high. we assended the hill and marched through a
high plain 10 miles where we again returned to the river. we halted
altho we had not reached the Wal-lah-lal-lah village as we had been led
to believe by our guide who informed us that the village was at the
place we Should next return to the river, and the considiration of our
haveing but little provisions had been our inducement to make the march
we had made this morning. we collected Some of the dry stalks of weeds
and the Stems of Shrubs or weeds which resemble the Southern wood; made
a Small fire and boiled a Small quantity of our jurked meat on which we
dined; while here we were met by the principal Chief of the Wal lah wal
lah Nation and Several of his nation. this chief by name Yel lep-pet
had visited us on the morning of the 19th of Octr. at our encampment
imedeately opposit to us; we gave him at that time a Small Medal, and
promised him a large one on our return. he appeared much gratified at
Seeing us return. he envited us to remain at his village 3 or 4 days
and assured us that we Should be furnished with a plenty of Such food
as they had themselves, and Some horses to assist us on our journey.
after our Scanty repast we Continued our March accompanied by Yelleppit
and his party to the Village which we found at the distance of Six
miles, Situated on the North Side of the river. about 16 miles below
the enterance of Lewis's river. This Chief is a man of much influence
not only in his own nation but also among the neighbouring tribes and
nations.--the village Consists of 15 large mat Lodges. at present they
Seam to Subsist principally on a Species of Mullet which weighs from
one to 3 pds. and roots of various discriptions which those plains
furnish them in great abundance. They also take a fiew Salmon trout of
the white kind. Yelleppet haranged his village in our favor intreated
them to furnish us with fuel & provisions and Set the example himself
by bringing us an armfull of wood, and a platter with 3 rosted mullets.
the others Soon followed his example with respect to fuel and we Soon
found ourselves in possession of an ample Stock, they burn the Stems of
the Shrubs in the plains, there being no timber in this neighbourhood
of any description. we purchased 4 dogs of those people on which the
party Suped hartily haveing been on Short allowance for near 2 days.
the Indians retired when we requested them this evening and behaved
themselves in every respect very well. the Indians informed us that
there was a good road Which passed from the Columbia opposit to this
Village to the enterance of Kooskooske on the S. Side of Lewis's river,
they also informed us, there were a plenty of Deer and Antilopes on the
road with good water and grass. we knew that a road in that direction
if the Country would permit it would Shorten the rout at least 80
miles. the Indians also inform us that the County was leavel and the
road good, under those circumstances we did not hesitate in pursueing
the rout recommended by our guide and Corroberated by Yetleppit and
others. we Concluded to pass our horses over early in the morning.-
made 31 miles to day
[Lewis, April 28, 1806]
Monday April 28th 1806.
This morning early Yellept brought a very eligant white horse to our
camp and presented him to Capt. C. signifying his wish to get a kettle
but on being informed that we had already disposed of every kettle we
could possibly spear he said he was content with whatever he thought
proper to give him. Capt. C. gave him his swoard a hundred balls and
powder and some sail articles with which he appeared perfectly
satisfyed. it was necessary before we entered on our rout through the
plains where we were to meet with no lodges or resident indians that we
should lay in a stock of provision and not depend altogether on the
gun. we directed Frazier to whom we have intrusted the duty of makeing
those purchases to lay in as many fat dogs as he could procure; he soon
obtained ten. being anxious to depart we requested the Cheif to furnish
us with canoes to pass the river, but he insisted on our remaining with
him this day at least, that he would be much pleased if we would conset
to remain two or three, but he would not let us have canoes to leave
him today. that he had sent for the Chym nap'-pos his neighbours to
come down and join his people this evening and dance for us. we urged
the necessity of our going on immediately in order that we might the
sooner return to them with the articles which they wished but this had
no effect, he said that the time he asked could not make any
considerable difference. I at length urged that there was no wind
blowing and that the river was consequently in good order to pass our
horses and if he would furnish us with canoes for that purpose we would
remain all night at our present encampment, to this proposition he
assented and soon produced us a couple of canoes by means of which we
passed our horses over the river safely and bubbled them as usual. we
found a Shoshone woman, prisoner among these people by means of whome
and Sahcahgarweah we found the means of conversing with the
Wollahwollahs. we conversed with them for several hours and fully
satisfyed all their enquiries with rispect to ourselves and the objects
of our pursuit. they were much pleased. they brought several diseased
persons to us for whom they requested some medical aid. one had his
knee contracted by the rheumatism, another with a broken arm &c to all
of which we administered much to the gratification of those poor
wretches. we gave them some eye-water which I beleive will render them
more essential service than any other article in the medical way which
we had it in our power to bestoe on them. soar eyes seem to be a
universal complaint amonge these people; I have no doubt but the fine
sand of these plains and river contribute much to this disorder. ulsers
and irruptions of the skin on various parts of the body are also common
diseases among them. a little before sunset the Chymnahpos arrived;
they were about 100 men and a few women; they joined the Wallahwollahs
who were about the same number and formed a half circle arround our
camp where they waited very patiently to see our party dance. the
fiddle was played and the men amused themselves with dancing about an
hour. we then requested the Indians to dance which they very cheerfully
complyed with; they continued their dance untill 10 at night. the whole
assemblage of indians about 550 men women and children sung and danced
at the same time. most of them stood in the same place and merely
jumped up to the time of their music. some of the men who were esteemed
most brave entered the space arrond which the main body were formed in
solid column, and danced in a circular manner sidewise. at 10 P.M. the
dance concluded and the natives retired; they were much gratifyed with
seeing some of our party join them in their dance.
[Clark, April 28, 1806]
Monday April 28th 1806
This morning early the Great Chief Yel lip pet brought a very eligant
white horse to our Camp and presented him to me Signifying his wish to
get a kittle but being informed that we had already disposed of every
kittle we could possibly Spare he Said he was Content with what ever I
thought proper to give him. I gave him my Swoard, 100 balls & powder
and Some Small articles of which he appeared perfectly Satisfied. it
was necessary before we entered on our rout through the plains where we
were to meet with no lodges or resident Indians that we Should lay in a
Stock of provisions and not depend altogether on the gun. we derected
R. Frazer to whome we have intrusted the duty of makeing the purchases,
to lay in as maney fat dogs as he could procure; he Soon obtained 10.
being anxious to depart we requested the Chief to furnish us with
Canoes to pass the river, but he insisted on our remaining with him
this day at least, that he would be much pleased if we would consent to
remain two or 3 days, but he would not let us have Canoes to leave him
this day. that he had Sent for the Chim-na-pums his neighbours to come
down and join his people this evening and dance for us. We urged the
necessity of our proceeding on imediately in order that we might the
Sooner return to them, with the articles which they wishd. brought to
them but this had no effect, he Said that the time he asked Could not
make any Considerable difference. I at length urged that there was no
wind blowing and that the river was consequently in good order to pass
our horses and if he would furnish us with Canoes for that purpose
we would remain all night at our present encampment, to this
proposition he assented and Soon produced a Canoe. I Saw a man who had
his knee Contracted who had previously applyed to me for Some Medisene,
that if he would fournish another Canoe I would give him Some Medisene.
he readily Consented and went himself with his Canoe by means of which
we passed our horses over the river Safely and hobbled them as usial-.
We found a Sho Sho ne woman, prisoner among those people by means of
whome and Sah-cah gah-weah, Shabono's wife we found means of
Converceing with the Wallahwallfirs. we Conversed with them for Several
hours and fully Satisfy all their enquiries with respect to our Selves
and the Object of our pursute. they were much pleased. they brought
Several disordered persons to us for whome they requested Some Medical
aid. one had his knee contracted by the Rhumitism (whome is just
mentioned above) another with a broken arm &c. to all of whome we
administered much to the gratification of those pore wretches, we gave
them Some eye water which I believe will render them more esential
Sirvece than any other article in the Medical way which we had it in
our power to bestow on them Sore eyes Seam to be a universial Complaint
among those people; I have no doubt but the fine Sands of those plains
and the river Contribute much to the disorder. The man who had his arm
broken had it loosely bound in a peice of leather without any thing to
Surport it. I dressed the arm which was broken Short above the wrist &
Supported it with broad Sticks to keep it in place, put in a Sling and
furnished him with Some lint bandages &c. to Dress it in future. a
little before Sun Set the Chim nah poms arrived; they were about 100
men and a fiew women; they joined the Wallah wallahs who were about 150
men and formed a half Circle arround our camp where they waited verry
patiently to See our party dance. the fiddle was played and the men
amused themselves with danceing about an hour. we then requested the
Indians to dance which they very Chearfully Complyed with; they
Continued their dance untill 10 at night. the whole assemblage of
Indians about 350 men women and Children Sung and danced at the Same
time. most of them danced in the Same place they Stood and mearly
jumped up to the time of their musick. Some of the men who were
esteemed most brave entered the Space around which the main body were
formed in Solid Column and danced in a Circular manner Side wise. at 10
P M. the dance ended and the nativs retired; they were much gratified
in Seeing Some of our Party join them in their dance. one of their
party who made himself the most Conspicious Charecter in the dance and
Songs, we were told was a Medesene man & Could foretell things. that he
had told of our Comeing into their Country and was now about to Consult
his God the moon if what we Said was the truth &c. &c.
[Lewis, April 29, 1806]
Tuesday April 29th 1806.
This morning Yellept furnished us with two canoes and we began to
transport our baggage over the river; we also sent a party of the men
over to collect the horses. we purchased some dogs and shappellell this
morning. we had now a store of 12 dogs for our voyage through the
plains. by 11 A.M. we had passed the river with our party and baggage
but were detained several hours in consequence of not being able to
collect our horses. our guide now informed us that it was too late in
the evening to reach an eligible place to encamp; that we could not
reach any water before night. we therefore thought it best to remain on
the Wallahwollah river about a mile from the Columbia untill the
morning, and accordingly encamped on that river near a fish wear. this
wear consists of two curtains of small willow switches matted together
with four lines of withs of the same materials extening quite across
the river, parrallel with eah other and about 6 feet assunder. those
are supported by several parsels of poles placed in the manner before
discribed of the fishing wears. these curtains of willow are either
roled at one end for a few feet to permit the fish to pass or are let
down at pleasure. they take their fish which at present are a mullet
only of from one to five lbs., with small seines of 15 or 18 feet long
drawn by two persons; these they drag down to the wear and raise the
bottom of the seine against the willow curtain. they have also a small
seine maniaged by one person it bags in the manner of the scooping net;
the one side of the net is confined to a simicircular bow of half the
size of a man's arm and about 5 feet long; the other side is confined
to a strong string which being attatched to the extremities of the bow
forms the cord line to the simicircle. The Wallahwollah river
discharges itself into the Columbia on it's S. side 15 miles below the
entrance of Lewis's river or the S. E. branch. a high range of hills
pass the Columbia just below the entrance of this river. this is a
handsome stream about 41/2 feet deep and 50 yds. wide; it's bed is
composed of gravel principally with some sand and mud; the banks are
abrupt but not high, tho it dose not appear to overflow; the water is
clear. the indians inform us that it has it's surces in the range of
mountains in view of us to the E and S. E. these mountains commence a
little to the south of Mt. Hood and extending themselves in a N.
Eastwardly direction terminate near a Southen branch of Lewis's river
short of the Rocky mountains. The Towannahiooks river, river LaPage and
the Wollah-wollah rivers all take their rise on the N side of these
mountains; two principal branches of the first of these take their rise
in Mountains Jefferson and hood. these mountains are covered with snow
at present tho do not appear high; they seperate the waters of the
Multnomah from those of the Columbia river. they appear to be about 65
or 70 miles distant from hence. The Snake indian prisoner informed us
that at some distance in the large plains to the South of those
mountains there was a large river runing to the N. W. which was as wide
as the Columbia at this place which is nearly one mile. this account is
no doubt some what exagerated but it serves to evince the certainty of
the Multnomah being a very large river and that it's waters are
seperated from the Columbia by those mountains and that with the aid of
a southwardly branch of Lewis's river which passes arrond the eastern
extremity of those mountains, it must water that vast tract of country
extending from those mountains to the waters of the gulph of
California. and no doubt it heads with the Yellowstone river and the
del Nord. we gave small medals to two inferior cheifs of this nation
and they each presented us a fine horse in return we gave them sundry
articles and among others one of my case pistols and several hundred
rounds of amunition. there are 12 other lodges of the Wollahwollah
nation on this river a little distance below our camp. 12 these as well
as those beyond the Columbia appear to depend on this fishing wear for
their subsistence. these people as well as the Chymnahpos are very well
dressed, much more so particularly their women than they were as we
decended the river last fall most of them have long shirts and
leggings, good robes and mockersons. their women wear the truss when
they cannot procure the shirt, but very few are seen with the former at
this moment. I presume the success of their winters hunt has produced
this change in their attire. they all cut their hair in their forehead
and most of the men wear the two cews over each sholder in front of the
body; some have the addition of a few small plats formed of the
earlocks and others tigh a small bundle of the docked foretop in front
of the forehead. their ornaments are such as discribed of the nations
below and are woarn in a similar manner. they insisted on our dancinq
this evening but it rained a little the wind blew hard and the weather
was cold, we therefore did not indulge them.
[Clark, April 29, 1806]
Tuesday April 29th 1806
This Morning Yelleppit furnished us with 2 Canoes, and We began to
transport our baggage over the river; we also Sent a party of the men
over to collect our horses. we purchased Some deer and chappellell this
morning. we had now a Store of 12 dogs for our voyage through the
plains. by 11 A.M. we had passed the river with our party and baggage
but were detained Several hours in consequence of not being able to
Collect our horses. our guide now informed us that it was too late in
the evening to reach an eligible place to encamp; that we Could not
reach any water before night. we therefore thought it best to remain on
the Wallah wallah river about a mile from the Columbia untill the
morning, accordingly encampd on the river near a fish Wear. this weare
Consists of two Curtains of Small willows wattled together with four
lines of withes of the Same Materials extending quite across the river,
parralal with each other and about 6 feet asunder. those are Supported
by Several parrelals of poles placed in this manner those Curtains of
willows is either roled at one end for a fiew feet to permit the fish
to pass or are let down at pleasure. they take their fish which at
present are a Mullet only of from one to 5 pounds Wt. with Small Seines
of 15 or 18 feet long drawn by two persons; these they drag down to the
Wear and rase the bottom of the seine against the willow Curtain. they
have also a Small Seine managed by one person, it bags in the manner of
the Scooping Nets; the one Side of the Net is Confined to a
Simicircular bow of half the Size of a mans arm and about 5 feet long,
the other Side is confined to a Strong String which being attatched to
the extremities of the bow forms the Cord line to the Simicurcle. The
Wallah wallah River discharges it's Self into the Columbia on it's
South Side 15 miles below the enterance of Lewis's River, or the S. E.
branch. a range of hills pass the Columbia just below the enterance of
this river. this is a handsom Stream about 41/2 feet deep and 50 yards
wide; it's bead is composed of gravel principally with Some Sand and
Mud; the banks are abrupt but not high, tho it does not appear to
overflow; the water is Clear. the Indians inform us that it has it's
Source in the range of Mountains in view of us to the E. and S. E.
these Mountains commence a little to the South of Mt. Hood and extend
themselves in a S Eastwardly direction terminateing near the Southern
banks of Lewis's river Short of the rockey Mountains. Ta wan nahiooks
river, river Lapage and ____ River all take their rise on those
Mountains. the two principal branches of the first of those take their
rise in the Mountain's, Jefferson and Hood. those Mountains are Covered
at present with Snow. those S W. Mountains are Covered with Snow at
present tho do not appear high. they Seperate the Waters of the
Multnomah from those of the Columbia river. they appear to be 65 or 70
miles distant from hence. The Snake indian prisoner informed us that at
Some distance in the large plains to the South of those Mountains there
was a large river running to the N. W. which was as wide as the
Columbia at this place, which is nearly 1 mile. this account is no
doubt Somewhat exagurated but it Serves to evince the Certainty of the
Multnomah being a very large River and that it's waters are Seperated
from the Columbia by those Mountains, and that with the aid of a
Southwardly branch of Lewis's river which pass around the Eastern
extremity of those mountains, it must water that vast tract of Country
extending from those Mountains to the Waters of the Gulf of
Callifornia. and no doubt it heads with the Rochejhone and Del Nord.
We gave Small Medals to two inferior Chiefs of this nation, and they
each furnished us with a fine horse, in return we gave them Sundery
articles among which was one of Capt Lewis's Pistols & Several hundred
rounds of Amunition. there are 12 other Lodges of the Wallahwallah
Nation on this river a Short distance below our Camp. those as well as
those beyond the Columbia appear to depend on their fishing weres for
their Subsistance. those people as well as the Chym na poms are very
well disposed, much more So particular their women than they were when
we decended the river last fall. Most of them have long Shirts and
leggins, good robes and Mockersons. their women were the truss when
they Cannot precure the Shirt, but very fiew are Seen with the former
at the present. I prosume the Suckcess of their Winters hunt has
produced this change in their attere. they all Cut their hair in the
fore head, and most of the men ware the two Cews over each Sholder in
front of the body; Some have the addition of a fiew Small plats formed
of the eare locks, and others tigh a Small bundle of the docked foretop
in front of the fore head. their orniments are Such as discribed of the
nativs below, and are worn in a Similar manner. they insisted on our
danceing this evening but it rained a little the wind blew hard and the
weather was Cold, we therefore did not indulge them.--Several applyed
to me to day for medical aides, one a broken arm another inward fever
and Several with pains across their loins, and Sore eyes. I
administered as well as I could to all. in the evining a man brought
his wife and a horse both up to me. the horse he gave me as a present.
and his wife who was verry unwell the effects of violent Coalds was
placed before me. I did not think her Case a bad one and gave Such
medesine as would keep her body open and raped her in flannel. left
Some Simple Medesene to be taken. we also gave Some Eye water 1 G. of
Ela v V. & 2 grs. of Sacchm Stry. to an ounce of water and in that
perpotion. Great No. of the nativs about us all night.