S. 30° E 2 miles to a bend under the high lands on the Stard Side

miles 10 passing a Larborad point.

thence the river bends to the East of S East as far as I could See. at

this place I think the wedth of the river may be Stated at 500 yards

and Sufficiently deep for a Man of War or Ship of any burthen.

[Lewis, April 3, 1806]

Thursday April 3rd 1806.

Early this morning Joseph Feilds came over and informed me that Reubin

Feilds Drewyer and himself had killed four Elk. as the party with me

were now but weak and the Indians constantly crouding about our camp, I

thought it best to send a few men to dry the meat on the other side of

the river; accordingly Sergt Pryor and two men returned with Jos.

Fields for that purpose. the hunters were ordered to continue the

chase; while the others were employed in drying the meat. I have had no

account as yet from the party below the entrance of Quicksand river.

The Indians continued to visit us today in considerable numbers most of

them were decending the river with their families. these poor people

appeared to be almost starved, they picked up the bones and little

peices of refuse meat which had been thrown away by the party. they

confirm the report of the scarcity of provision among the natives

above. I observe some of the men among them who wear a girdle arround

the waist between which and the body in front they confine a small skin

of the mink or polecat which in some measure conceals the parts of

generation, they also frequently wear a cap formed of the skin of the

deer's head with the ears left on it, they have some collars of leather

wrought with porcupine quills after the method of the Shoshonees. From

this place Mount Hood bears S. 85 E. distant 40 miles. This evening we

completed drying the flesh of the Elk which had been brought to camp.

at 6 P.M. Capt. Clark returned, having completely succeeded in his

expedition. he found the entrance of the large river of which the

Indians had informed us, just at the upper part of wappetoe Island. the

following is a sketch of the rivers furnished Capt C. by an old and

inteligent Indian man.-

[Clark, April 3, 1806]

Thursday April 3rd 1806

The water had fallen in the course of last night five inches. I Set out

and proceeded up a Short distance and attempted a Second time to fathom

the river with my cord of 5 fathom but could find no bottom. the mist

was So thick that I could See but a Short distance up this river. where

I left it, it was binding to the East of S. E. being perfectly

Sati'fyed of the Size and magnitude of this great river which must

Water that vast tract of Country betwen the Western range of mountains

and those on the Sea coast and as far S. as the Waters of Callifornia

about Latd. 37° North I deturmined to return. at 7 oClock A.M. Set out on

my return. the men exirted themselves and we arived at the Ne er cho ki

oo house in which the nativs were So illy disposed yesterday at 11 A.M.

I entered the house with a view to Smoke with those people who

Consisted of about 8 families, finding my presence alarmed them So much

that the children hid themselves, womin got behind their men, and the

men hung their heads, I detained but a fiew minits and returnd on board

the canoe. My pilot who Continued in the Canoe informed me on my return

that those people as well as their relations were very illy disposed

and bad people. I proceeded on along the South Side met five canoes of

the Shah-ha-la Nation from the Great rapids with their wives and

Children decending the Columbia into this fertile Vally in pursute of

provi-sions. my Pilot informed me in a low voice that those people were

not good, and I did not Suffer them to come along Side of my Canoe

which they appeared anxious to do. their numbers in those canoes who

appeard anxious to come along Side was 21 men and 3 boys. at 3 P M. we

arived at the residence of our Pilot which consists of one long house

with Seven appartments or rooms in Square form about 30 feet each room

opening into a passage which is quit through the house those passages

are about 4 feet in width and formed of Wide boads Set on end in the

ground and reaching to the Ruff which Serves also as divisions to the

rooms. The ground plot is in this form 1 1 1 1 is the passages. 2 2 &c.

is the apartments about 30 feet square. this house is built of bark of

the White Cedar Supported on long Stiff poles resting on the ends of

broad boads which form the rooms &c. back of this house I observe the

wreck of 5 houses remaining of a very large Village, the houses of

which had been built in the form of those we first Saw at the long

narrows of the E-lute Nation with whome those people are connected. I

indeavored to obtain from those people of the Situation of their

nation, if scattered or what had become of the nativs who must have

peopled this great town. an old man who appeared of Some note among

them and father to my guide brought foward a woman who was badly marked

with the Small Pox and made Signs that they all died with the disorder

which marked her face, and which She was verry near dieing with when a

Girl. from the age of this woman this Distructive disorder I judge must

have been about 28 or 30 years past, and about the time the Clatsops

inform us that this disorder raged in their towns and distroyed their

nation. Those people Speak a different language from those below tho in

their dress habits and manners &c. they differ but little from the

Quathlahpohtles. theire women ware the truss as those do of all the

nations risideing from the quathlahpohtle to the enterance of Lewis's

river and on the Columbia above for Some distance. those people have

Some words the Same with those below but the air of their language is

entirely different, their men are Stouter and much better made, and

their womin ware larger & longer robes than those do below; those are

most commonly made of Deer Skins dressed with the hair on them. they

pay great attention to their aged Severall men and women whom I

observed in this village had arived at a great age, and appeared to be

helthy tho blind. I provailed on an old man to draw me a Sketch of the

Multnomar River ang give me the names of the nations resideing on it

which he readily done, See draft on the other Side and gave me the

names Of 4 nations who reside on this river two of them very noumerous.

The first is Clark a-mus nation reside on a Small river which takes its

rise in Mount Jefferson and falls into the Moltnomar about 40 miles up.

this nation is noumerous and inhabit 11 Towns. the 2d is the Cush-hooks

who reside on the N E. Side below the falls, the 3rd is the Char-cowah

who reside above the Falls on the S W. Side neether of those two are

noumerous. The fourth Nation is the Cal-lar-po-e-wah which is very

noumerous & inhabit the Country on each Side of the Multnomar from its

falls as far up as the knowledge of those people extend. they inform me

also that a high mountain passes the Multnomar at the falls, and above

the Country is an open plain of great extent.

I purchased 5 dogs of those people for the use of their Oil in the

Plains, and at 4 P M left the Village and proceeded on to Camp where I

joind Capt. Lewis

The enterance of Multnomah river is 142 miles up the Columbia river

from its enterance into the Pacific Ocean-. in my absence and Soon

after I left camp Several Canoes of men women and Children came to the

camp. and at one time there was about 37 of those people in Camp Capt

Lewis fired his Air gun which astonished them in Such a manner that

they were orderly and kept at a proper distance dureing the time they

Continued with him--as maney as 10 Canoes arrived at Camp in the Course

of this day. they all Seem to give the Same account of the Scercity of

Provisions above. one family Continued all night and behaved themselves

in a very orderly manner.

on the 3rd Joseph Field returned from the woods and informed the

Drewyer Rubin & himself had killed four Elk. Capt L. Sent Sergt. Pryor

and two men with Joseph Field to dry the flesh of the Elk in the woods

on Scaffolds with fire. the party bilow quick Sand river did not return

to day. The Indians continue to vist our Camp in Considerable number

from above with their families. these pore people appeared half

Starved. they picked up the bones and little refuse meat which had been

thrown away by the party. Capt L had the flesh of the 4 Elk which was

killed on the 1st inst. dried--Some of the men of the nativs who

visited Capt Lewis wore a girdle, with a Small Skin in front and a Cap

of the Skin of the deers head &c.

[Lewis, April 4, 1806]

Friday April 4th 1806.

This morning early we sent Sergt. Ordway in Surch of Sergt. Gass and

party below the entrance of the Quicksand river fom whom we have yet

had no report. in the course of a few hours both parties returned.

Sergt. Gass and party brought the flesh of a bear and some venison.

they informed us that they had killed an Elk and six deer tho the flesh

of the greater part of those animals was so meagre that it was unfit

for uce and they had therefore left it in the woods. Collins who had

killed the bear, found the bed of another in which there were three

young ones; and requested to be permitted to return in order to waylay

the bed and kill the female bear; we permitted him to do so; Sergt.

Gass and Windsor returned with him. Several parties of the natives

visit us today as usual both from above and below; those who came from

above were moving with their families, and those from below appeared to

be empeled mearly by curiossity to see us. About noon we dispatched

Gibson Shannon Howard and Wiser in one of the light canoes, with orders

to proceed up the Columbia to a large bottom on the South side about

six miles above us and to hunt untill our arrival. late in the evening

Joseph Fields and Drewyer returned. they had killed two deer yesterday,

and informed us that the meat would be dryed by midday tomorrow. we

directed Drewyer and the two Feildses to ascend the river tomorrow to

join Gibson and party, and hunt untill our arrival. this evening being

fair I observed time and distance of Ys Eastern Limb from regulus with

Sextant. k West.

[Clark, April 4, 1806]

Friday April 4th 1806.

Mouth of quick Sand River

This morning early we Sent Sergt. Ordway in Serch of Sergt. Gass and

party below the enterance of quick Sand river from whome we have yet

had no report. in the Course of a fiew hours both parties returned.

Sergt. Gass and party brought the Flesh of a Bear, and Some venison.

they informed us they had killed an Elk and Six Deer tho the flesh of

the greater part of those Animals were So Meagre that it was unfit for

uce, and they had therefore left it in the woods. Collins who had

killed the Bear, found the bead of another in which there was three

young ones; and requested to be permited to return in order to waylay

the bed and kill the female bear; we permited him to do So; Sergt. Gass

and Windser returned with him. Several parties of the nativs visit us

to day as usial both from above and below; those who came from above

were moveing with their families, and those from below appeared to be

impeled mearly by curiosity to See us. About noon we dispatched Gibson,

Shannon, Howard & Wiser in one of the light Canoes, with orders to

proceed up the Columbia to a large bottom on the South Side about Six

Miles above us and there to hunt untill our arrival. late in the

evening Jos Fields and Drewyer returned with a load of dried meat. they

had killed two deer yesterday and informed us that the meat would be

dryed by Mid-day tomorrow. We directed Drewyer and Field's to assend

the river tomorrow and join Gibson & party, and hunt untill our

arrival. this evening being fair observed time and distance of moon's

Eastern Limb from regulus with Sextant * West

[Lewis, April 5, 1806]

Saturday April 5th 1806.

This morning was so cloudy that I could not obtain any lunar

observations with a Aquila as I wished. Joseph Fields and Drewyer

departed this morning agreeably to their orders of last evening. at 9

A.M. we Sent Sergt. Ordway and a party to assist Sergt. Pryor in

bringing in the meat of four Elk which he had dryed. at 1 P. M the

party returned with the meat. it had been so illy dryed that we feared

it would not keep. we therefore directed it to be cut thinner and

redryed over a fire this evening, as we purpose setting out early in

the morning. the deerskins which we have had cased for the purpose of

containing our dryed meat are not themselves sufficiently dryed for

that purpose, we directed them to be dryed by the fire also. the

weather has been so damp that there was no possibility of pounding the

meat as I wished.--we were visited today by several parties of the

natives as usual; they behaved themselves in a very orderly manner.

Observed Magnetic Azimuth and altitude of the sun with Circumferenter

and Sextant.

Saw the Log cock, the hummingbird, gees ducks &c today. the tick has

made it's appearance it is the same with those of the Atlantic States.

the Musquetoes have also appeared but are not yet troublesome.--this

morning at 10 OClock Sergt. Gass returned with Collins and Windsor they

had not succeeded in killing the female bear tho they brought the three

cubs with them. the Indians who visited us today fancyed these petts

and gave us wappetoe in exchange for them. Drewyer informed me that he

never knew a female bear return to her young when they had been

allarmed by a person and once compelled to leave them. The dogwood

grows abundantly on the uplands in this neighbourhood. it differs from

that of the United States in the appearance of it's bark which is much

smoother, it also arrives here to much greater size than I ever

observed it elsewhere sometimes the stem is nearly 2 feet in diameter.

we measured a fallen tree of fir No 1 which was 318 feet including the

stump which was about 6 feet high. this tree was only about 31/2 feet

in diameter. we saw the martin, small gees, the small speckled

woodpecker with a white back, the Blue crested Corvus, ravens, crows,

eagles Vultures and hawks. the mellow bug and long leged spider have

appeared, as have also the butterfly blowing fly and many other

insects. I observe not any among them which appear to differ from those

of our country or which deserve particular notice.

[Clark, April 5, 1806]

Saturday April 5th 1806.

This morning was So Cloudy that we could not obtain any lunar

observations with a Aquila as we wished.

Joseph Field & Drewrey left us this morning agreeably to their orders

of last evening. at the Same time we Sent Sergt. Ordway and five men to

assist Sergt. Pryor in bringing in the meat of four Elk which he had

dried in the woods. at 1 p.m.the party returned with the meat. it was

not Sufficiently dryed to keep. we had it cut thiner and redryed over a

fire this evening, as we purpose Setting out early in the morning. the

dear skins which we had cased for the purpose of holding our dried meat

is not Sufficently dry for that purpose, we derected them to be dried

by the fire also. the weather being So damp that there was no

possibullity of pounding the meat as I wished.--We were visited by

Several parties of the nativs to day; they behaved themselves in a very

orderly manner.

Saw the Log cock, the humming bird, Geese, Ducks &c. to day. the tick

has made it's appearance it is the Same with those of the Atlantic

States. the Musquetors have also appeared, but are not yet much

troublesom.--this morning at 10 A M Sergt. Gass returned with Collins

and Windser they had not Succeeded in killing the female bear, tho they

brought the three cub's with them. the Indians who visited us to day

fancied those Petts and gave us wappato in exchange for them. Fir and

White Cedar is the common growth of the up lands, as is the Cotton

wood, ash, large leafed Ash and Sweet Willow that of the bottom lands.

The Huckleberry, shallon, and the Several evergreen Shrubs, of that

Speces that bears berries have Seased to appear, except that Species

which has the leaf with a prickley Margin. among the plants of this

prarie in which we are encamped I observe the pashequo, Shannetahque,

and Compound firn, the root of which the nativs eate; also the water

cress, Straw berry flowering pea not yet in blume, narrow dock, and

rush which are luxuriant and abundent in the river bottoms. the large

leafed thorn has also disappeard. The red flowering Current is found

here in considerable quantities on the upland, and the Common Dog wood

is found on either Side of the river in this neighbourhood and above

Multnomah river. The Country on either Side is fertile, the bottom on

the South Side is wide and inter sperced with Small ponds in which the

nativs gather their Wappato. back of this bottom the Country rises to

about 200 feet and the Soil is very rich as that also above q Sandy

river quite to the Mountains. the Country on the N. Side from a fiew

Miles above this place as low down as the enterance of

Cah-wah-na-ki-ooks River rises to the hight generally of 150 or 200

feet is tolerably leavel, thickly timbered with Fir and White Cedar.

the Soil of the richest quallity. Some Small Praries on the bank of the

river. That portion of Country below as low down as the enterance of

Cah-wah na ki ooks River is a broken rich Country. the hills are high,

the bottom lands as before mentioned and fertile &c.-The Country a fiew

miles up the Multnomah River rises from the river bottoms to the hight

of from 2 to 300 feet and is rich & fertile. Some Plains can be Seen to

the N. E. of our Camp of 10 or 12 miles in Secumference The Hunters &

Serjt Pryor informed us that they had Measured a tree on the upper Side

of quick Sand River 312 feet long and about 4 feet through at the Stump.

[Lewis, April 6, 1806]

Sunday April 6th 1806.

This morning we had the dryed meat secured in skins and the canoes

loaded; we took breakfast and departed at 9 A.M. we continued up the N.

side of the river nearly to the place at which we had encamped on the

3rd of Nov. when we passed the river to the south side in quest of the

hunters we had sent up yesterday and the day before. from the

appearance of a rock near which we had encamped on the 3rd of November

last I could judge better of the rise of the water than I could at any

point below. I think the flood of this spring has been about 12 feet

higher than it was at that time; the river is here about 11/2 miles

wide; it's general width from the beacon rock which may be esteemed the

head of tide water, to the marshey islands is from one to 2 miles tho

in many places it is still wider. it is only in the fall of the year

when the river is low that the tides are persceptable as high as the

beacon rock. this remarkable rock which stands on the North shore of

the river is unconnected with the hills and rises to the hight of seven

hundred feet; it has some pine or reather fir timber on it's nothern

side, the southern is a precipice of it's whole hight. it rises to a

very sharp point and is visible for 20 miles below on the river. at the

distance of ten miles from our encampment we met with our hunters in

the upper end of the bottom to which we had directed them on the South

side of the river. they had killed three Elk this morning and wounded

two others so badly that they expected to get them. we therefore

determined to encamp for the evening at this place in order to dry the

meat, in surch of which we sent a party immediately and employed others

in preparing scaffoalds and collecting firewood &c against their

return. we found some indians with our hunters when we arrived; these

people are constantly hanging about us.--As has been before mentioned

Capt C set out with a party of seven men on 2ed inst. in surch of the

entrance of the Multnomah river. he departed at 1/2 after 11 A. M and

directed his course along the Southern side of the river. at the

distance of 8 miles he passed the village of the Na-cha-co-lee tribe of

the E-lute Nation; this village is not large and being situated on the

main shore opposite to and S. of the Diamond Island it was concealed by

that island from our view both ascending and decending the Columbia as

we passed near the Northern shore. Capt C. passed this village without

halting and continued his rout untill 3 P.M. when he arrived at a large

double house of the Ne-er-cho-ki-oo tribe of the Shah'ha-la nation; at

this place we had seen 24 additional straw and bark huts as we passed

down last fall, the inhabitants of which as I have before mentioned

reside at the great rapids of the Columbia river. about this place in

different directions Capt C. saw a great number of small canoes lying

scattered on the bank. these small canoes are employed by the women in

collecting wappetoe; with one of these a woman enters a pond where the

Sagitaria Sagittifolia grows frequently to her breast in water and by

means of her toes and feet breakes the bulb of this plant loos from the

parent radicle and disincumbering it from the mud it immediately rises

to the surface of the water when she seizes it and throws it into her

canoe which she always keeps convenient to her. they will remain in the

water for hours together in surch of this bulb in middle of winter.

those canoes are from 10 to 14 feet in length, from 18 to 23 inches in

width near the middle tapering or becoming narrower towards either

extremity and 9 inches deep their form is thus. they are so light that

a woman can draw them over land or take them with ease through the

swamps in any direction, and are sufficient to carry a single person

and several bushells of roots. Capt. Clarks pilot informed him that the

small canoes which he saw in the vicinity of this lodge were the

property of the Shah-ha-las who used them occasionally when they visit

this neighbourhood for the purpose of collecting roots. while at this

place Capt C. entered one of the appartments of the house and offered

several articles to the natives in exchange for wappetoe, they appeared

to be in an ill humour and positively refused to let him have any.

Capt. C. sat himself down near the fire and having a part of a portfire

match in his pocket cut of a small peice of it and threw it in the

fire; at the same time he took out his pocket compass and by means of a

magnet which he had in the top of his inkstand he turned the nedle of

the compass about very briskly; the match took fire and birned

vehemently; the indians astonished and allarmed at these exhibitions,

ran and brought several parcels of wappetoe and laid at his feet and

begged that he would put out the bad fire; to this he consented; at

this moment the match being exhausted was of course extenguished and he

put up his compass & magnet. they were now much more complisant, tho

the women and children were yet so much allarmed that they took refuge

in their beads and behing the men who were seting opposite to Capt. C.

during the whole of this farcical seen an old man who was seting by

continued to speak with great vehemence apparently imploring his god

for protection. Capt. C. gave them an adiquate compensation for their

roots and having lighted his pipe smoaked with the men. they appeared

in a great measure to get the better of their allarm and he left them

and continued his rout along the south side of Image canoe Island which

he found to be three islands, the one in the center concealing the

apperture between the two others in such manner that from the north

side of the river where we have previously passed they all appeared to

form one island only. at the distance of 13 miles below the village

just mentioned, and at the lower point of what we have heretofore

deemed the image canoe Island, Capt C. entered the Multnomah river so

called by the natives from a nation of that name who reside on wappetoe

island a little below the entrance of this river? Multnomah river

discharges itself on the S. side of the Columbia 140 miles above the

entrance of the latter into the Pacific Ocean, and may be justly

esteemed one fourth of that noble river. Capt. C. found that this river

had attained it's greatest annual hight and had now fallen about 18

inches. it has three small islands in it's mouth which conceal the

river from the view of those who pass with the stream of the Columbia.

from the Columbia at the entrance of the Multonomah river Mount

Jefferson bears S. E. this is a noble mountain. I think equally as high

as Mount St. Helines but it's distance being much greater than that of

the latter, so great a portion of it dose not appear above the range of

mountains which lie betwen boath those stupendious mountains and this

point of view. like mount St. Heleans it's figure is a regular cone and

is covered with eternal snow. M. St. Heleans from the same point boar N

____, Mount Hood due East, and Mount Raniei nearly North. there is also

a very high humped mountain a little to the East of Mount St. Heleans

which appears to lie in the same chain with those conic pointed

mountains before mentioned. soon after Capt Clark entered the Multnomah

river he was met by an old Indian man alone in a canoe decending the

river, the pilot had some conversation with him and informed Capt. C.

that this was a man of the Clark-a'-mas nation who are numerous and

inhabit eleven vilages on either side of a river of the same name which

has it's source in Mount Jefferson and after tranversing a woody and

fertile country discharges itself into the Multnomah river on it's E.

side at the distance of about 40 miles from it's junction with the

Columbia. the Clarkamas river is navigable for canoes a great distance,

from the Indian account almost to the foot of mount, Jefferson. the

nation who inhabit it's borders live principally on fish with which

this stream abounds and also on roots which they procure on it's

borders. they sometimes also come down to the Multnomah and Columbia in

surch of Wappatoe. they do not differ essentially in their language

dress &c from the Quathlahpohtles and others in the vicinity of

wappetoe island. The current of the Multnomah river is as gentle as

that of the Columbia, glides smoothly with an even surface, and appears

to possess sufficient debth for the largest ship. Capt. C. attempted to

sound it with a cord of 5 fathoms which was the longest in his

possession but could not find bottom at this debth for at least one

third of the width of the river. Capt. C. ascended this river ten miles

to a large wood house on the East side of the river, near which he

encamped for the evening; the house being infested with such swarms of

flees that they could not remain in it. this his guide informed him was

the house of the Cush-hooks nation who reside just below the falls of

the Multnomah river and who occasionally reside at this place for the

purpose of collecting wappetoe. at present this house appeared to have

been lately abandoned by the natives who had left therein exposed to

every visiter various articles such as small canoes, mats, bladders of

train oil, baskets, bowls and trenchers. this is a strong evidence of

the honesty of the natives with rispect to the property of each other,

but they have given us several evidences that they do not pay the same

rispect to the property of white men. his guide further informed him

that there were a number of small houses belonging to the last

mentioned nation situated on two bayous which make out of the river a

little above this large hose on the East side; that the inhabitants of

these as well as those of the large house had gone up to the falls of

the Multnomah river for the purpose of taking fish. these falls are

situated at the distance of 2 days travel from the junction of the

Multnomah and Columbia rivers agreeably to the Indian account which we

have estimated at 60 miles or 20 m. above the entrance of Clarkamus

river. Capt C. took the dementions of the hose of the Ne-mal-quin-ner

tribe of the Cushhooks nation near which he encamped on the 2ed inst.

and found it presisely thirty feet by 40 squar constructed with broad

boards and covered with the bark of the white cedar or arborvita; the

floor is on a level with the surface of the earth and the internal

arrangement is similar to those of the natives of the Sea coast.--these

people carry on a trafic with the Killamucks of the coast across the

mountains and by way of the Killamucks river from the Killamucks they

obtain their train oil. The courses and distances taken by Capt. Clark

in ascending the Multnomah river from it's junction with the Columbia

river, commencing at the lower extremity of the Image canoe Islands are

as follows. (viz) S. 30° W. 4 m. to the upper point of a small island in

the center of Multnomah river. thence S 10° W. 3 m. to a sluce 80 yds.

wide on Stard. which dividing wappetoe Island from the main land

discharges itself into wappetoe inlet passed a willow point on Lard. S.

60° W. 3 ms. to a large indian house on the Lard. side, just below some

high fir land the shore is bold and high on Stard. side. S 30° E. 2 ms.

to the center of a bend under The highlands on Stard. side, passing a

Lard. point; from hence the river directed it's course to the E. of S.

E. as far as Capt. C. could perceive it.--at this place the Multnomah

river is 500 yds. wide and sufficiently deep to admit the largest ship.

the river appears to be washing away it's banks in some places, and has

more sandbars and willow points than the Columbia.On the morning of the

3rd inst. Capt. Clark observed that the water had fallen in the course

of the night about 5 inches. he set out early and proceeded up the

river a short distance few miles and attempted a second time to fathom

it but with the same success as before he could nt find bottom with his

cord of 5 fathoms for the distance of half the width of the stream.

Capt C. having fully satisfyed himself of the magnitude of this great

river he set out on his return at 7 A.M. I have but little doubt but

that this river waters a vast tract of country lying between the

Western mountains and the mountainous country of the sea coast

extending as far south as the waters of the gulph of Callifornia or

about Latitude 37° North. at 11 A.M. Capt. C. arrived at the

Ne-er-cho-ki-oo house where he had allarmed the inhabtants yesterday.

he halted here a few minutes to smoke with these people who consisted

of eight families. he found that his presents excited fresh allarm

particularly among the women and children who hid themselves and took

refuge behind the men as yesterday; the men held down their heads and

seemed much conserned; he therefore remained in the house but a few

minutes, returned to his canoe and pursued his rout. his pilot now

informed him that these people as well as their relations at the falls

of the Columbia were illy disposed bad men. soon after he set out he

met five canoes on board of which there were as many families of the

Shah-ha-la nation decending the river in surch of subsistence. they

were extreemly anxious to come along side, but he forbid their doing so

as their number was too considerable there being 21 men on board these

canoes. his pilot told him that they were mischevous bad men. at 3 P.M.

he arrived at the present residence of his pilot on the South side of

the river opposite the Diamond Island. here he halted about an hour he

found this house very large; it consisted of seven appartments in one

range above ground each about 30 feet square. the entrances to these

appartments were from passages which extended quite across the house,

about 4 feet wide and formed like the walls of the hose of broad boards

set on end extending from beneath the floor to the roof of the house.

the apperture or hole through which they enter all those wooden houses

are remarkably small not generally more than 3 feet high and about 22

inches wide. the ground plot of the Nechecolee house is thus 1 1 1 1

the passages of 4 feet and 2 2 &c. the appartments of 30 feet square.

this house is covered with the bark of the white cedar, laid on in a

double course, supported by rafters and longitudinal round poles

attatched to the rafters with cores of this bark. the peices of the

cedar bark extend the whole length of the side of the roof and jut over

at the eve about 18 inches. at the distance of 18 inches transverse

splinters of dry fir is inserted through the cedar bark in order to

keep it smooth and prevent it's edges from colapsing by the heat of the

sun; in this manner the natives make a very secure light and lasting

roof of this bark. in the vicinity of this house Capt. Clark observed

the remains of five other large houses which appeared to have been sunk

in the ground several feet and built after the method of those of the

Elutes nation at the great narrows of the columbia with whom these

people claim affinity. their language is the same with the Elutes, tho

in their habits, dress manners &c they differ but little from the

Quathlahpohtles and others in this neighborhood. they make use of some

words common to their neighbours but the air of their language is

entirely different. they are much better formed and their men larger

than the nations below. their women wear larger and longer robes which

are made principally of deerskins dressed in the hair. they pay great

rispect to their aged persons. Capt. C. observed several persons of

both sexes who appeared to have arrived to great age yet they appeared

perfectly healthy tho most of them perfectly blind. the loss of sight I

have observed to be more common among all the nations inhabiting this

river than among any people I ever observed. they have almost

invariably soar eyes at all stages of life. the loss of an eye is very

common among them; blindness in perdsons of middle age is by no means

uncommon, and it is almost invariably a concommitant of old age. I know

not to what cause to attribute this prevalent deficientcy of the eyes

except it be their exposure to the reflection of the sun on the water

to which they are constantly exposed in the occupation of fishing.

Capt. C. enquired of the Nechecole the cause of the decline of their

village. an old man who appeared to be of some note among them and the

father of his guide brought forward a woman who was much marked with

the small pox, and made signs that the inhabitants of those houses

which he saw in ruins had all died with the disorder which marked the

face of the woman and with which this woman was very near dying when a

girl. from the apparent age of the woman Capt. C. supposed that it was

about 28 or 30 years since this disorder had prevailed among these

people. this is about the time which we have supposed that it prevailed

among the Clatsops and others of the coast. Capt C. now prevailed on

this old man to give him a sketch of the Multnomah river it's branches

and the position and names of the Indian nations residing thereon this

the old man son executed with his finger in the dust. (see scetch

inserted on the 3rd inst.). he informed that the Cush-hooks and

Char-cow-ah nations who reside at the falls of that river were not

numerous; but that the Cal-lah-po-e-wah nation who inhabited both sides

of this river above the falls as far as it was known to himself or his

nation were very numerous. that the country they inhabited was level

and wholy destitute of timber. that a high range of mountains passed

the Multnomah river at the falls, on the upperside of which the country

was one vast plain. the nations who inhabit this country reside on the

rivers and subsist like those of the Columbia on fish and roots

principally. Capt C. bought five dogs of these people and set out for

my camp at 5 P.M. where he arrived a little before dark, on the evening

of the third.--the party whom we sent for the flesh of the Elk which

Shannon had killed returned in the evening with that of four, one had

by some mistake been omitted. Drewyer and shannon found the two wounded

Elk and had killed them. we set all hands at work to prepare the meat

for the saffoald they continued their operations untill late at night.

we directed Shannon to go out early in the morning with a party to

bring in the Elk which had been left last evening in mistake. we also

directed Drewyer and the two Feildses to ascend the river early in the

morning to a small bottom a few miles above and hunt untill our

arrival.-

[Clark, April 6, 1806]

Sunday April 6th 1806.

Two Indians Came last night very late to our Camp and continued all

night. early we had all the meat packed up and our Canoes loaded ready

for to Set out and after an early brackfast at which time all things

were ready and we Set out and proceeded to the Camp of Gibson & party

about 9 miles, they had killed 3 Elk at no great distance and Wounded

two others so badly that we expect to precure them. Sent a party of Six

men with Shannon who had killed the Elk to bring in the Elk, and formed

a Camp, near which we had a Scaffold made ready to dry the meat as Soon

as it Should arive. Reubin Field killed a bird of the Quail kind or

Class which was whistleing near our Camp it is larger than the quail or

partridge as they are Called Kentucky and Virginia. it's form is

presisely that of our partridge tho its plumage differs in every part.

the upper part of the head, Sides and back of the neck, including the

Croop and about of the under part of the body is of a bright dove

coloured blue, under neath the under beak, as high as the lower edge of

the eye, and back as far as the hinder part of the eyes and thence

comeing down to a point in the front of the neck about 2/3rd of it's

length downwards, is of a fine dark brick red. between this brick red

and the dove colour there runs a narrow Stripe of pure white. the ears

are covered with some coarse dark brown feathers. just at the base of

the under chap there is a narrow transvirce Stripe of white. from the

crown of the head two long round feathers extend backwards nearly in

the direction of the beak and are of a black Colour. the length of

these feathers is 21/2 inches. one overlais and Conseals the other

which is Somewhat Shorter and Seems to be raped in the plumage of that

in front which folding backwards colapses behing and has a round

appearance. the tail is composed of 12 dark brown feathers of nearly

equal length. the large feathers of the wings are of a dark brown & are

reather Short in purpotion to the body of the bird. in this respect

very Similar to the partridge. the covert of the wings and back are of

a dove Colour with a Slight admixture of redish brown. a wide Stripe

which extends from Side to Side of the body and occupies the lower

region of the breast is beautifully varigated with the brick red white

& black which perdominates in the order they are mentioned and the

Colours mark the feathers transversely. the legs are covered with

feathers as low as the Knee; these feathers are of dark brown tiped

with a dark brick red as are also those between and about the joining

of the legs with the body. the foot is presisely that of the Common

partridge except that they are as also the legs white. the upper beak

is Short, wide at it's base, black, convex, curved downwards and

reather obtusely pointed. it exceeds the under chap considerably which

is of a white colour, also convex under neath and obtusely pointed. the

nostrils are remarkably Small, placed far back and low down on the

Sides of the beak. they are covered by a thin proterant elastic, black

leather like Substance. the eyes are of a uniform pierceing black

colour. this is a most butifull bird I preserved the Skin of this bird

retaining the wings feet & head which I hope will give a just Idea of

the bird. it's loud note is Single and Consists of a loud Squall,

intirely different from the whistling of our partridge or quailes. it

has a chiping note when allarmed like our partridge.--to day there was

a Second of those birds killed which presisely resembles that just

discribed. I believe those to be the mail bird the female, if so, I

have not yet Seen.-.

at 6 P.M. Shannon and party returned with the flesh of five Elk. the

two he had wounded in the morning he found dead near the place he had

Shot them. we had the meat cut into thin pices and Scaffored with a

fire under it to dry out, which we expect in the course of the night

Can be effected. four Indians from the great rapids visited us to day

and Continued all day. they give the Same account of the Scercity of

provisions above the falls as has already been given by others. This

Supply of Elk I think by useing economey and in addition of roots and

dogs which we may probably precure from he Nativs on Lewis's river will

be Sufficient to last us to the Chopunnish where we Shall Meet with our

horses-. and near which place there is Some deer to be precured.

Frazer killed a pheasent of the Common kind. Jos. Field killed a

vulture of that Speces already discribed. in the evening late the

Indians left us and returned to their village. we detected that fires

be kept under the meat all night. and tha Drewyer and the two Fields

proceed on to the next bottom and hunt untill we Should arive. 9 miles

[Lewis, April 7, 1806]

Monday April 7th 1806.

This morning early the flesh of the remaining Elk was brought in and

Drewyer with the Feildses departed agreeably to the order of the last

evening. we employed the party in drying the meat today which we

completed by the evening, and we had it secured in dryed Elkskins and

put on board in readiness for an early departure. we were visited today

by several parties of indians from a village about 8 miles above us of

the Sahhalah nation. I detected one of them in steeling a peice of lead

and sent him from camp. I hope we have now a sufficient stock of dryed

meat to serve us as far the Chopunnish provided we can obtain a few

dogs horses and roots by the way. in the neighbourhood of the

Chopunnish we can procure a few deer and perhaps a bear or two for the

mountains. last evening Reubin Fields killed a bird of the quail kind

it is reather larger than the quail, or partridge as they are called in

Virginia. it's form is precisely that of our patridge tho it's plumage

differs in every part. the upper part of the head, sides and back of

the neck, including the croop and about 1/3 of the under part of the

body is of a bright dove coloured blue, underneath the under beak, as

high as the lower edge of the eyes, and back as far as the hinder part

of the eyes and thence coming down to a point in front of the neck

about two thirds of it's length downwards, is of a fine dark brick red.

between this brick red and the dove colour there runs a narrow stripe

of pure white. the ears are covered with some coarse stiff dark brown

feathers. just at the base of the under chap there is narrow transverse

stripe of white. from the crown of the head two long round feathers

extend backwards nearly in the direction of the beak and are of a black

colour. the longest of these feathers is two inches and an half, it

overlays and conceals the other which is somewhat shorter and seems to

be raped in the plumage of that in front which folding backwards

colapses behind and has a round appearance. the tail is composed of

twelve dark brown feathers of nearly equal length. the large feathers

of the wings are of a dark brown and are reather short in proportion to

the body of the bird in that rispect very similar to our common

partridge. the covert of the wings and back are of a dove colour with a

slight admixture of redish brown. a wide stripe which extends from side

to side of the body and occupyes the lower region of the breast is

beautifully variagated with the brick red white and black which

pedominate in the order they are mentioned and the colours mark the

feathers transversely. the legs are covered with feathers as low as the

knee; these feathers are of a dark brown tiped with the dark brick red

as are also those between and about the joining of the legs with the

body. they have four toes on each foot of which three are in front and

that in the center the longest, those one each side nearly of a length;

that behing is also of good length and are all armed with long and

strong nails. the legs and feet are white and imbrecated with

proportionably large broad scales. the upper beak is short, wide at

it's base, black, convex, curved downwards and reather obtusely

pointed. it exceeds the under chap considerably which is of a white

colour, also convex underneath and obtusely pointed. the nostrils are

remarkably small placed far back and low down on the sides of the beak.

they are covered by a thin protuberant elastic, black leatherlike

substance. the eyes are of a uniform piercing black colour. this is a

most beautifull bird. I preserved the skin of this bird retaining the

wings feet and head which I hope will give a just idea of the bird.

it's loud note is single and consists of a loud squall, intirely

different from the whistling of our quales or partridge. it has a

cherping note when allarmed something like ours.--today there was a

second of these birds killed by Capt C. which precisely resembled that

just discribed. I believe these to be the male bird the female, if so,

I have not yet seen.--the day has been fair and weather extreemly

pleasant. we made our men exercise themselves in shooting today and

regulate their guns found several of them that had their sights moved

by accedent, and others that wanted some little alterations all which

were compleatly rectifyed in the course of the day. in the evening all

the Indians departed for their village.

[Clark, April 7, 1806]

Monday April 7th 1806

This morning Drewyer & the two Fields Set out agreeably to their orders

of last evening, the remainder of the party employed in drying the

flesh of the five Elk killed by Shannon yesterday. which was completed

and we had it Secured in dried Shaved Elk Skins and put on board in

readiness for our early departure. we were visited by Several parties

of Indians from a Village about 12 miles above us of the Sahhalah

nation. one of them was detected in Stealing a piece of Lead. I Sent

him off imedeately. I hope now we have a Sufficient Stock of dryed meat

to Serve us as far as the Chopunnish provided we can obtain a fiew

dogs, horses and roots by the way. in the neighbourhood of the

Chopunnish under the Rocky Mountains we can precure a fiew deer, and

perhaps a Bear or two for the Mountains.

The day has been fair and weather exceedingly pleasent. we made our men

exersise themselves in Shooting and regulateing their guns, found

Several of them that had their Sights moved by accident, and others

that wanted Some little alterations all which were compleated rectified

in the Course of the day except my Small rifle, which I found wanted

Cutting out. about 4 oClock P M all the Indians left us, and returned

to their Village. they had brought with them Wappato, & pashequa roots

Chapellel cakes, and a Species of Raspberry for Sale, none of which

they disposed of as they asked Such enormous prices for those articles

that we were not able to purchase any. Drewyer returned down the river

in the evening & informed us that the nativs had Sceared all the Elk

from the river above. Joseph & reuben Fields had proceeded on further

up the river in the canoe, he expected to the village.

I provaled on an old indian to mark the Multnomah R down on the Sand

which hid and perfectly Corisponded with the Sketch given me by sundary

others, with the addition of a circular mountain which passes this

river at the falls and connects with the mountains of the Seacoast. he

also lais down the Clark a mos passing a high Conical Mountain near

it's mouth on the lower Side and heads in Mount Jefferson which he lais

down by raiseing the Sand as a very high mountain and Covered with

eternal Snow. the high mountain which this Indian lais down near the

enterance of Clark a mos river, we have not Seen as the hills in it's

diretion from this vally is high and obscures the Sight of it from us.

Mt Jefferson we Can plainly See from the enterance of Multnomah from

which place it bears S. E. this is a noble Mountain and I think equally

as high or Something higher than Mt. St. Heleansa but its distance

being much greater than that of the latter, So great a portion of it

does not appear above the range of mountains which lie between both

those Stupendious Mountains and the Mouth of Multnomah. like Mt. St.

Heleans its figure is a regular Cone and is covered with eturnial Snow.

that the Clarkamos nation as also those at the falls of the Multnomah

live principally on fish of which those Streams abound and also on

roots which they precure on it's borders, they also Sometimes Come down

to the Columbia in Serch of Wappato. they build their houses in the

Same form with those of the Columbian Vally of wide Split boads and

Covered with bark of the White Cedar which is the entire length of the

one Side of the roof and jut over at the eve about 18 inches. at the

distance of about 18 inches transvers Spinters of dried pine is

inserted through the Ceder bark inorder to keep it Smooth and prevent

it's edge from Colapsing by the heat of the Sun; in this manner the

nativs make a very Secure light and lasting roof of this bark. which we

have observed in every Vilege in this Vally as well as those above.

this Indian also informed me the multnomah above the falls was Crouded

with rapids and thickly inhabited by indians of the Callah-po-e-wah

Nation. he informed he had himself been a long way up that river &c.

[Lewis, April 8, 1806]

Tuesday April 8th 1806.

The wind blew so violently this morning that we were obliged to unlode

our perogues and canoes, soon after which they filled with water. being

compelled to remain during the day at our present station we sent out

some hunters in order to add something to our stock of provision; and

exposed our dryed meat to the sun and the smoke of small fires. in the

evening the hunters returned having killed a duck only; they saw two

bear and some of the blacktailed jumping or fallow deer, such as are

found about Fort Clatsop; this kind of deer are scarce in this

neighbourhood, the common longtailed fallow deer being most abundant.

we have seen the black bear only in this quarter. the wind continued

without intermission to blow violently all day. I took a walk today of

three miles down the river; in the course of which I had an opportunity

to correct an errow which I have heretofore made with rispect to the

shrub I have hithertoo called the large leafed thorn. the leaf of this

thorn is small being only abut 21/2 inches long, is petiolate,

conjugate; the leafets are petiolate accutely pointed, having their

margins cut with unequal angular insissures. the shrub which I have

heretofore confounded with this grows in similar situations, has a stem

precisely like it except the thorn and bears a large three loabed leaf.

this bryer is of the class Polyandria and order Polygynia. the flowers

are single, the peduncle long and celindric. the calix is a perianth,

of one leaf, five cleft, & accutely pointed. the perianth is proper,

erect, inferior with rispect to both petals and germen, and equal. the

corolla consists of five accute pale scarlet petals, insirted in the

recepticle with a short and narrow claw. the Corolla is smooth,

moderately long, situated at the base of the germen, permanent, and cup

shaped. of the stamens the filaments are subulate, inserted into the

recepticle, unequal and bent inwards concealing the pistillum; anther

two loabed and inflected situated on the top of the fillaments of the

pistillum the germ is conical, imbricated, superior, sessile and short.

the styles are short with rispect to the stamen, capillary smooth,

obtuse, distributed over the serface of the germ and decid-uous. no

perseptable stigma.--late at night the centinel detected an old indian

man in attempting to creep into camp in order to pilfer; he allarmed

the indian very much by presenting his gun at him; he gave the fellow a

few stripes with a switch and sent him off. this fellow is one of a

party of six who layed incamped a few hundred yards below us, they

departed soon after this occurrence.

[Clark, April 8, 1806]

Tuesday April 8th 1806

This morning about day light I heard a Considerable roreing like wind

at a distance and in the Course of a Short time ways rose very high

which appeared to come across the river and in the Course of an hour

became So high that we were obliged to unload the canoes, at 7 oClock

A.M. the winds Suelded and blew So hard and raised the Waves So

emensely high from the N. E and tossed our Canoes against the Shore in

Such a manner as to render it necessary to haul them up on the bank.

finding from the appearance of the winds that it is probable that we

may be detained all day, we Sent out Drewyer, Shannon Colter & Collins

to hunt with derections to return if the Wind Should lul, if not to

Continue the hunt all day except they killed Elk or bear Sooner &c. we

had the dried meat which was cured at our last encampment below exposed

to the Sun. John Shields Cut out my Small rifle & brought hir to Shoot

very well. the party ows much to the injenuity of this man, by whome

their guns are repared when they get out of order which is very often.

I observed an Indian Woman who visited us yesterday blind of an eye,

and a man who was nearly blind of both eyes. the loss of Sight I have

observed to be more Common among all the nations inhabiting this river

than among any people I ever observed. they have almost invariably Sore

eyes at all Stages of life. the loss of an eye is very Common among

them; blindness in persons of middle age is by no means uncommon, and

it is almost invariably a concammitant of old age. I Know not to what

cause to attribute this prevalent deficientcy of the eye except it be

their exposure to the reflection of the Sun on the water to which they

are constantly exposed in the Occupation of fishing. about 1 P M

Collins Shannon and Colter returned. Collins Saw 2 bear but could not

get a Shot at them. neither Shannon nor Colter Saw any thing worth

Shooting. Soon after Drewyer returned haveing only a Summer Duck. the

Elk is gorn to the mountains as the hunters Suppose. in the evening

late an old man his Son & Grand Son and their Wives &c. Came down

dureing the time the waves raged with great fury. the wife of the Grand

Son is a woman of differant appearance from any we have Seen on this

river, she has a very round head and pierceing black eyes. Soon after

those people arived the Old man was detected in Stealing a Spoon and he

was ordered away, at about 200 yards below our Camp they built

themselves a fire and did not return to our fires after-. The Wind

Continued violently hard all day, and threw our Canoes with Such force

against the Shore that one of them Split before we Could get it out.

[Lewis, April 9, 1806]

Wednesday April 9th 1806.

This morning early we commenced the operation of reloading our canoes;

at 7 A.M. we departed and proceeded on to the Camp of Reubin and Joseph

Fields they had not killed any game; we made no halt at this place but

continued our rout to the Wah-clel-lah Village which is situated on the

North side of the river about a mile below the beacon rock; here we

halted and took breakfast. John Colter one of our party observed the

tomehawk in one of the lodges which had been stolen from us on the 4th

of November last as we decended this river; the natives attempted to

wrest the tomahawk from him but he retained it. they indeavoured

afterwards to exculpate themselves from the odium of having stolen it,

they alledged that they had bought it from the natives below; but their

neighbours had several days previously, informed us that these people

had stolen the Tommehawk and then had it at their village. this village

appears to be the winter station of the Wah-clel-lahs and Clahclellars,

the greater part of the former have lately removed to the falls of the

Multnomah, and the latter have established themselves a few miles above

on the North side of the river opposite the lower point of brant

island, being the commencement of the rapids, here they also take their

salmon; they are now in the act of removing, and not only take with

them their furniture and effects but also the bark and most of the

boards which formed their houses. 14 houses remain entire but are at

this time but thinly inhabited, nine others appear to have been lately

removed, and the traces of ten or twelve others of ancient date were to

be seen in the rear of their present village. they sometimes sink their

houses in the earth, and at other times have their floors level with

the surface of the earth; they are generally built with boards and

covered with Cedar bark. most of them have a devision in their houses

near the entrance wich is at the end or in the event of it's bing a

double house is from the center of a narrow passage. several families

inhabit one appartment. the women of these people pierce the cartelage

of the nose in which they wear various ornaments in other rispects they

do not differ from those in the neighbourhood of the Diamond island;

tho most of the women brad their hair which hanges in two tresses one

hanging over each ear. these people were very unfriendly, and seemed

illy disposed had our numbers not detered them any acts of violence.

with some difficuly we obtained five dogs from them and a few wappetoe.

on our way to this village we passed several beautifull cascades which

fell from a great hight over the stupendious rocks which cloles the

river on both sides nearly, except a small bottom on the South side in

which our hunters were encamped. the most remarkable of these casscades

falls about 300 feet perpendicularly over a solid rock into a narrow

bottom of the river on the south side. it is a large creek, situated

about 5 miles above our encampment of the last evening. several small

streams fall from a much greater hight, and in their decent become a

perfect mist which collecting on the rocks below again become visible

and decend a second time in the same manner before they reach the base

of the rocks. the hills have now become mountains high on each side are

rocky steep and covered generally with fir and white cedar. we saw some

turkey buzzards this morning of the speceis common to the United states

which are the first we have seen on this side the rocky mountains.

during our halt at this village the grand Cheif and two inferior Cheifs

of the Chil-luck-kit-to-quaw nation arrived with several men and women

of their nation in two large canoes. these people were on their return

up the river, having been on a trading voyage to the Columbean vally,

and were loaded with wappetoe dryed anchovies, with some beads &c which

they had received in exchange for dryed and pounded salmon shappelell

beargrass &c. These people had been very kind to us as we decended the

river we therefore smoked with them and treated them with every

attention. at 2 P.M. we renewed our voyage; passed under the beacon

rock on the north side, to the left of two small islands situated near

the shore. at four P.M. we arrived at the Clah-clel-lah village; here

we found the natives busily engaged in erecting their new habitations,

which appear to be reather of a temperary kind; it is most probable

that they only reside here during the salmon season. we purchased two

dogs of these people who like those of the village blow were but sulky

and illy disposed; they are great rogues and we are obliged to keep

them at a proper distance from our bag-gage. as we could not ascend the

rapid by the North side of the river with our large canoes, we passed

to the oposite side and entered the narrow channel which seperates

brant Island from the South shore; the evening being far spent and the

wind high raining and very cold we thought best not to attempt the

rapids this evening, we therefore sought a safe harbour in this narrow

channel and encamped on the main shore. our small canoe with Drewer and

the two feildses was unable to pass the river with us in consequence of

the waves they therefore toed her up along the N. side of the river and

encamped opposite the upper point of brant Island. after halting this

evening I took a turn with my gun in order to kill a deer, but was

unsuccessfull. I saw much fresh sign. the fir has been lately injured

by a fire near this place and many of them have discharged considerable

quantities of rozin. we directed that Collins should hunt a few hours

tomorrow morning and that Gibson and his crew should remain at his

place untill we returned and employ themselves in collectng rozin which

our canoes are now in want of.

[Clark, April 9, 1806]

Wednesday April 9th 1806

last night at a late hour the old amsiated Indian who was detected in

Stealing a Spoon yesterday, Crept upon his belley with his hands and

feet, with a view as I Suppose to take Some of our baggage which was in

Several defferent parcels on the bank. the Sentinal observed the

motions of this old amcinated retch untill he got with a fiew feet of

the baggage at he hailed him and approached with his gun in a possion

as if going to Shoote which allarmed the old retch in Such a manner

that he ran with all his power tumbleing over brush and every thing in

his way. at 7 A.M. we Set out and proceeded on to the Camp of Joseph &

Reubin Fields. they had killed nothing. here we did not delay but

proceeded on to Wah-clel-lah Village on the North Side and brackfast

here one the men Colter observed the Tomahawk which was Stolen from on

the 4th of Novr. last as we decended the Columbia, he took the tomahawk

the natives attempted to wrest it from him, he held fast the Tomahawk.

Those people attempted to excuse themselves from odium of Stealing it,

by makeing Signs that they had purchased the Tomahawk, but their

nighbours informed me otherwise and made Signs that they had taken it.

This Village appears to be the wintering Station of two bands of the

Shah-ha-la Nation. One band has already moved the Falls of the

Multnomah which is the place they take their Salmon. The other band is

now moveing a fiew miles above to the foot of the first rapid on this

river, at which place they take their Salmon. 14 houses only appear

occupied and the inhabitants of those moveing off hourly, they take

with them in their Canoes independent of all their houshold effects the

bark of their houses, and boards. 9 houses has been latterly abandened

and 14 others is yet is thinly inhabited at present, and the remains of

10 or 12 others are to be Seen and appears to have been enhabited last

fall. those people were not hospital and with Some dificuelty we

precured 5 dogs and a fiew Wappato of them. Soon after we arived at

this Village the Grand Cheif and two others of the

Chee-luck-kit-le-quaw Nation arived from below. they had with them 11

men and 7 womin and had been trading in the Columbia Vally for Wappato,

beeds and dried Anchovies &c in exchange for which they had given

pounded fish Shappalell, bear grass, acorns boiled berries &c. &c. and

are now on their return to their village. as those people had been very

Kind to us as we decended the river we gave them Smoke. at 2 oClock P.

M we Set out and passed under the Beacon rock on the North Side of two

Small Islds. Situated nearest the N. side. at 4 P.M. we arived at the

first rapid at the head of Straw berry island at which place on the N

W. Side of the Columbia here we found the nativs from the last village

rebuilding their habitations of the bark of their old Village 16 Huts

are already Compleated and appear only temporrary it is most probable

that they only reside here dureing the Season of the Salmon. as we

Could not pass with the large Canoes up the N. W. Side for the rocks,

the wind high and a rainey disagreeable evining. our Smallest Canoe

being too low to cross through the high waves, we Sent her up on the N

W. Side with Drewyer and the two Fields and after purchaseing 2 dogs

Crossed and into the Sluce of a large high Island seperated from the S.

E Side by a narrow chanel, in this chanel we found a good harbor and

encamped on the lower Side. We Saw Some deer Sign and Collins to hunt

in the mornig untill the Canoes were toed above the rapids. made 16

Miles to day. evening wet & disagreeable.

[Lewis, April 10, 1806]

Thursday April 10th 1806.

We set out early and droped down the channel to the lower end of brant

Island from whence we drew them up the rapid by a cord about a quarter

of a mile which we soon performed; Collins and Gibson not having yet

come over we directed Sergt. Pryor to remain with the cord on the

Island untill Gibson arrived and assist him with his crew in geting his

canoe up the rapid, when they were to join us on the oposite side at a

small village of six houses of the Clah-clah'lahs where we halted for

breakfast. in passing the river which is here about 400 yds. wide the

rapidity of the currant was such that it boar us down a considerable

distance notwithstanding we employed five oars. on entering one of

these lodges, the natives offered us a sheepskin for sail, than which

nothing could have been more acceptable except the animal itself. the

skin of the head of the sheep with the horns remaining was cased in

such manner as to fit the head of a man by whom it was woarn and highly

prized as an ornament. we obtained this cap in exchange for a knife,

and were compelled to give two Elkskins in exchange for the skin. this

appeared to be the skin of a sheep not fully grown; the horns were

about four inches long, celindric, smooth, black, erect and pointed;

they rise from the middle of the forehead a little above the eyes. they

offered us a second skin of a full grown sheep which was quite as large

as that of a common deer. they discovered our anxity to purchase and in

order to extort a great plrice declared that they prized it too much to

dispose of it. in expectation of finding some others of a similar kind

for sale among the natives of this neighbourhood I would not offer him

a greater price than had been given for the other which he refused.

these people informed us that these sheep were found in great abundance

on the hights and among the clifts of the adjacent mountains. and that

they had lately killed these two from a herd of 36, at no great

distance from their village. we could obtain no provision from those

people except four white salmon trout. at ten oclock Sergt. Pryor and

Gibson joined us with Collins who had killed 3 deer. these were all of

the blacktailed fallow kind. we set out and continued our rout up the

N. side of the river with great difficulty in consequence of the

rapidity of the current and the large rocks which form this shore; the

South side of the river is impassable. as we had but one sufficient

toerope and were obliged to employ the cord in geting on our canoes the

greater part of the way we could only take them one at a time which

retarded our progress very much. by evening we arrived at the portage

on the North side where we landed and conveyed our bagage to the top of

the hill about 200 paces distant where we formed a camp. we had the

canoes drawn on shore and secured. the small canoe got loose from the

hunters and went a drift with a tin vessel and tommahawk in her; the

Indians caught her at the last village and brought her up to us this

evening for which service we gave them a couple of knives; the canoe

overset and lost the articles which were in her.--Saw the white pine at

this place.

[Clark, April 10, 1806]

Thursday April 10th 1806

Collins went out in the bottom to hunt agreeable to the order of last

evening, and gibsons Crew was derected to delay for Collins dureing

which time they were derected to Collect rozin from the pines in the

bottom near our Camp at 6 A M. we Set out and proceeded to the lower

point of the Island from whence we were Compelled to draw our Canoes up

a rapid for about 1/4 mile which we Soon performed. Collins & gibson

haveing not yet Come over we derected Serjt. Pryor to delay on the

Island untill Gibson Came over & assist him with the large toe roap

which we also left and to join us at a village of four houses of the

Clah-lah-lar Tribe which is opposit to this Island on North Side at

which place we intened to brackfast. in crossing the River which at

this place is not more than 400 yards wide we fell down a great

distance owing to the rapidity of the Current. I entered one of the

houses of those people and was Scercely Seated before they offered me a

Sheep Skin for Sale nothing could be more acceptable except the Animal

itself in examoning this Skin I found it was a young one, the Skin of

the head was Cased So as to fit the head of a man and was esteemed as a

great orniment and highly prised by them. we precured this Cased head

for a knife and, the Skin we were obliged to give two Raw Elk Skins

for. Soon after they offered a large one for Sall. after finding us

anxious to purchase they declined silling this Skin. those people

informed us that they killed those Animals among the rocks in the

mountains under which they live; and that great numbers of those

animals inhabit those mountains & that the lamb was killed out of a

gange of 36 at a Short distance from their village. The wool of the

full grown Sheep, or that on the Skin which we Saw was much Corser than

that of the one which we purchased, the Skin was about the Size of that

of a Common deer. The Skin we obtained appeared to be the Skin of a

Sheep not fully grown, the wool fine, the Horns were abought 4 inches

long, Celindric, Smooth, black, a little bending backwards and pointed;

they rise from the Middle of the foeheard, and a little above the eyes,

and appeared to possess all the marks of the Common Sheep as already

discribed. We could precure no provisions from those people except four

white Salmon trout. at 10 oClock Sergt. Pryor and Gibson joined us with

Collins who had killed 3 deer. these were all of the blacktailed fallow

kind. We Set out and Continued up on the N. Side of the river with

great dificuelty in Consequence of the Rapidity of the Current and the

large rocks which forms this Shore; the South Side of the river is

impassable.

As we had but one Sufficent toe roap and were obliged to employ the

Cord in getting on our Canoes the greater part of the way we could only

take them one at a time which retarded our progress very much. by

evening we arived at the portage on the N. Side where we landed and

Conveyed our baggage to the top of the hill about 200 paces distant

where we found a Camp. we had the Canoes drawn on Shore and Secured.

the Small Canoe got loose from the hunters and went adrift with a tin

cup & a tomahawk in her; the Indians Caught her at the last Village and

brought her up to us this evening for which we gave them two knives;

the Canoe overset and lost the articles which were in her.-.

[Lewis, April 11, 1806]

Friday April 11th 1806.

As the tents and skins which covered both our men and baggage were wet

with the rain which fell last evening, and as it continued still

raining this morning we concluded to take our canoes first to the head

of the rapids, hoping that by evening the rain would cease and afford

us a fair afternoon to take our baggage over the portage. this portage

is two thousand eight hundred yards along a narrow rough and slipery

road. the duty of getting the canoes above the rapid was by mutual

consent confided to my friend Capt. C. who took with him for that

purpose all the party except Bratton who is yet so weak he is unable to

work, three others who were lamed by various accedents and one other to

cook for the party. a few men were absolutely necessary at any rate to

guard our baggage from the War-clel-lars who crouded about our camp in

considerable numbers. these are the greates theives and scoundrels we

have met with. by the evening Capt. C. took 4 of our canoes above the

rapids tho with much difficulty and labour. the canoes were much

damaged by being driven against the rocks in dispite of every

precaution which could be taken to prevent it. the men complained of

being so much fatiegued in the evening that we posponed taking up our

5th canoe untill tomorrow. these rapids are much worse than they were

fall when we passed them, at that time there were only three difficult

points within seven miles, at present the whole distance is extreemly

difficult of ascent, and it would be impracticable to decend except by

leting down the empty vessels by a cord and then even the wrisk would

be greater than in taking them up by the same means. the water appears

to be upwards of 20 feet higher than when we decended the river. the

distance by way of the river between the points of the portage is 3

Msmany of the natives crouded about the bank of the river where the men

were engaged in taking up the canoes; one of them had the insolence to

cast stones down the bank at two of the men who happened to be a little

detatched from the party at the time. on the return of the party in the

evening from the head of the rapids they met with many of the natives

on the road, who seemed but illy disposed; two of these fellows met

with John Sheilds who had delayed some time in purchasing a dog and was

a considerable distance behind the party on their return with Capt. C.

they attempted to take the dog from him and pushed him out of the road.

he had nothing to defend himself with except a large knife which he

drew with an intention of puting one or both of them to death before

they could get themselves in readiness to use their arrows, but

discovering his design they declined the combat and instantly fled

through the woods. three of this same tribe of villains the

Wah-clel-lars, stole my dog this evening, and took him towards their

village; I was shortly afterwards informed of this transaction by an

indian who spoke the Clatsop language, and sent three men in pursuit of

the theives with orders if they made the least resistence or difficulty

in surrendering the dog to fire on them; they overtook these fellows or

reather came within sight of them at the distance of about 2 miles; the

indians discovering the party in pursuit of them left the dog and fled.

they also stole an ax from us, but scarcely had it in their possession

before Thompson detected them and wrest it from them. we ordered the

centinel to keep them out of camp, and informed them by signs that if

they made any further attempts to steal our property or insulted our

men we should put them to instant death. a cheif of the Clah-clel-lah

tribe informed us that there were two very bad men among the

Wah-clel-lahs who had been the principal actors in these seenes of

outradge of which we complained, and that it was not the wish of the

nation by any means to displease us. we told him that we hoped it might

be the case, but we should certainly be as good as our words if they

presisted in their insolence. I am convinced that no other

consideration but our number at this moment protects us. The Cheif

appeared mortified at the conduct of his people, and seemed friendly

disposed towards us. as he appeared to be a man of consideration and we

had reason to beleive much rispected by the neighbouring tribes we

thought it well to bestoe a medal of small size upon him. he appeared

much gratifyed with this mark of distinction, and some little attention

which we shewed him. he had in his possession a very good pipe tomahawk

which he informed us he had received as a present from a trader who

visited him last winter over land pointing to the N. W., whome he

called Swippeton; he was pleased with the tommahawk of Capt. C. in

consequence of it's having a brass bowl and Capt. C. gratified him by

an exchange. as a further proof of his being esteemed by this white

trader, he gave us a well baked saylor's bisquit which he also informed

us he had received from Swippeton. from these evidences I have no doubt

but the traders who winter in some of the inlets to the N. of us visit

this part of the Columbia by land at certain seasons, most probably

when they are confined to their winter harbour. and if so some of those

inlets are probably at no great distance from this place, as there

seems to be but little inducement to intice the trader hither from any

considerable distance particularly as the difficulty in traveling on

the borders of this mountainous country must be great at that season as

the natives informed me their snows were frequently breast deep. I

observe snowshoes in all the lodges of the natives above the Columbean

vally. I hope that the friendly interposition of this chief may prevent

our being compelled to use some violence with these people; our men

seem well disposed to kill a few of them. we keep ourselves perefectly

on our guard. This evening we send Drewyer and the two Feildses on a

few miles up the river to the entrance of Cruzatt's river to hunt

untill our arrival. The inhabitants of the Y-eh-huh Village on the

North side immediately above the rapids have lately removed to the

opposite side of the river, where it appears they usually take their

salmon. like their relations the Wah-Clel-lars they have taken their

houses with them. I observe that all the houses lately established have

their floors on the surface of the earth, are smaller and of more

temperary structure than those which are sunk in the ground. I presume

the former are their spring and Summer dwellings and the latter those

of the fall and winter. these houses are most generally built with

boards and covered with bark. some of an inferior ore more temperary

cast are built entirely of cedar bark, which is kept smooth and

extended by inserting small splinters of wood through the bark

crosswise at the distance of 12 or 14 inches assunder. several families

inhabit the same appartment. their women as well as those of the 3

villages next below us pierce the cartelage of the nose and insert

various ornaments. they very seldom imprint any figures on their skins;

a few I observed had one or two longitudinal lines of dots on the front

of the leg, reaching from the ankle upwards about midleg. most of their

women braid their hair in two tresses as before mentioned. the men

usually cew their hair in two parsels which like the braded tresses of

the female hang over each ear in front of the sholder, and gives an

additional width to the head and face so much admired by them. these

cews are usually formed with throngs of dressed Otterskin crossing each

other and not roled in our manner arrond the hair. in all other

rispects I observe no difference in their dress habits manners &c. from

those in the Neighbourhood of the diamond Island. today we recognized a

man of the Elute nation who reside at the long narrows of the Columbia,

he was on his return from a trading voyage to the Columbean valley with

10 or 12 others of his nation. many other natives from the villages

above were employed in taking their roots &c over the portage on their

return. I observed that the men equally with the women engage in the

labour of carrying. they all left their canoes below the rapids and

took others above which they had left as they decended. those which

were left below were taken down the river by the persons from whom they

had been hired or borrowed. the natives from above behaved themselves

in a very orderly manner. The salmon have not yet made their

appearance, tho the natives are not so much distressed for food as I

was induced to believe. I walked down today about 3/4 of a mile below

our encampment to observe the manner in which these people inter their

dead. I found eight sepulchers near the north bank of the river built

in the following manner. four strong forks are first sunk several feet

in the ground and rise about six feet high, froming a parrallelogram of

8 by 10 feet. the intervals between these upright forks, on which four

poles are laid, are filled up with broad erect boards with their lower

ends sunk in the ground and their upper ends confined to the horizontal

poles. a flat roof is formed of several layers of boards; the floors of

these sepulchres are on a level with the surface of the earth. the

human bodies are well rolled in dressed skins and lashed securely with

chords and laid horizontaly on the back with the head to the west. in

some of these sepulchres they are laid on each other to the debth of

three or four bodies. in one of those sepulchres which was nearly

decayed I observed that the human bones filled it perfectly to the

hight of about three feet. many articles appear to be sacreficed to the

dead both within and without the sepulcres. among other articles, I

observed a brass teakettle, some scollep shells, parts of several robes

of cloth and skins, with sticks for diging roots &c.--this appears to

be the burying ground of the Wahclellahs, Clahclellahs and Yehhuhs.

[Clark, April 11, 1806]

Friday April 11th 1806

rained the greater part of the last night and continued to rain this

morning, as the Skins and the Covering of both the mend and loading

were wet we determined to take the Canoes over first in hopes that by

the evening the rain would Sease and afford us a fair afternoon to

Carry our baggage over the portage which is 2 miles by land and a

Slipery road. I therefore took all the men except three who had Sore

feet and two to cook, and who were with the baggage; and with great

dificuelty and much fatigue we drew up 4 of our canoes above the Rapids

3 miles in extent. the men became So fatigued that we deturmined to

puspone takeing the 5th Canoe untill tomorrow. Those rapids are much

worse than they were at the time we passed last fall at that time there

was only three bad places in the distance of 7 miles. at this time the

whole distance is a rapid and dificuelt of assent; and would be very

dangerous at this Stage of the water (which is ____ feet higher than

when we passed down) to decent in any kind of Craft. Great numbers of

the nativs visited us and viewed us from the banks as we passed on with

the Canoes, maney of those people were also about our baggage and on

the portage road. two of those fellows insulted John Shields who had

delayed in purchaseing a dog at the upper part of the rapids and was

Some distance behind myself and the party on our return to camp. they

attempted to take his dog and push him out of the road. he had nothing

to defend himself except a large knife which he drew with a full

deturmination to put one of them to death before he had an oppertunity

of dischargeing his arrow. the nativs obseveing his motion ran off. one

other Indn. Stold an ax and was not in possession before he was

detected by Thompson and the ax taken from him. one other fellow

attempted to Steal Capt. Lewis's dog, and had decoyed him nearly half a

mile we were informed of it by a man who Spoke the Clatsop language and

imediately Sent three men with their guns who over took the Indians,

who on their approach ran off and lift the dog--we informed the nativ's

by Signs that if the indians insulted our men or Stold our property we

Should Certainly put them to death a Chief of the Clah-clal-lahs Tribe

informed us that there was two very bad men who had been guilty of

those mischevious acts. that it was not the wish of their tribe that

any thing should be done which might displese the white people. this

Chief had a large fine pipe tomahawk which he informed me he got from a

Trader he called Swippeton. I exchanged tomahawks with this Chief, and

as he appeared to be a man of consideration among the tribes of this

neighbourhood and much conserned for the ingiries offered us, we gave

him a Medal of the Small Size which appeard. to please him verry much;

and will I hope have a favourable tendincy, in as much as it will

attach him to our interest, and he probably will harang his people in

our favour, which may prevent any acts of violence being Commited, on

either Side. nothing but the Strength of our party has prevented our

being robed before this time. Sent Drewyer & 2 Fields on a head to

hunt. The inhabitents of the Wyach-hich Tribe Village imediately above

those rapids on the N W. Side have latterly moved their village to the

opposit Side of the river, where they take their Salmon; they are now

in the act of removeing and not only take their furniture and effects

but also the bark and most of the boards which formed their houses.

Those like the tribes below Sometimes Sink their houses in the earth,

and at other times have their flowrs leavil with the Surface of the

earth; they are Generally built of boards and Covered with bark. those

which appear intended for temporary use are most generally built of the

White Cedar bark. Most of those have a division in the houses near the

enterance which is at the end, or in the event of it's being a double

house is from the center of a narrow passage. Several families enhabit

one appartment. the women of those people as well as those in the 3

villages below pierce the cartilage of the nose in which they ware

Various orniments. in other respects they do not deffer from those of

the Dimond Island. tho most of the women brad their hair which hangs in

two tresses, one hanging over each ear. The yound men of all those

tribes ware their hair plated, in two plats anging over each Sholder,

maney of them also Cew their hair with otter Skin divided on the crown

of the head and hanging over each ear. to day I recognised a man of the

Elute nation who reside at the Long narrows, he was on his return from

a tradeing voyage to the Columbian Vally with 10 or 12 of his tribe.

maney others from the villages above this were takeing their roots &c.

over the portage to day on their return home.

vegitation is rapidly progressing. Sarvis berry, Sackacommis and the

large leafed ash is in blume. also fir N. ____ in bloom

[Lewis, April 12, 1806]

Saturday April 12th 1806.

It rained the greater part of last night and still continued to rain

this morning. I therefore determined to take up the remaining perogue

this morning for which purpose I took with me every man that could be

of any service. a small distance above our camp there is one of the

most difficult parts of the rapid. at this place the current sets with

great violence against a projecting rock. in hawling the perogue

arround this point the bow unfortunately took the current at too great

a distance from the rock, she turned her side to the stream and the

utmost exertions of all the party were unable to resist the forse with

which she was driven by the current, they were compelled to let loose

the cord and of course both perogue and cord went a drift with the

stream. the loss of this perogue will I fear compell us to purchase one

or more canoes of the indians at an extravegant price. after breakfast

all hands were employed in taking our baggage over the portage. we

caused all the men who had short rifles to carry them, in order to be

prepared for the natives should they make any attempts to rob or injure

them. I went up to the head of the rapids and left Capt. C. below.

during the day I obtained a vocabulary of the language of the

War-clel-lars &c. I found that their numbers were precisely those of

the Chinnooks but the other parts of their language essentially

different. by 5 P.M. we had brought up all our baggage and Capt. C.

joined me from the lower camp with the Clahclellah cheif. there is an

old village situated about halfway on the portage road the fraim of the

houses, which are remarkably large one 160 by 45 feet, remain almost

entire. the covering of the houses appears to have been sunk in a pond

back of the village. this the chief informed us was the residence

occasionally of his tribe. these houses are fraimed in the usual manner

but consist of a double set as if oune house had been built within the

other. the floors are on a level with the ground. the natives did not

croud about us in such numbers today as yesterday, and behaved

themselves much better; no doubt the precautions which they observed us

take had a good effect. I employed sergt. Pryor the greater part of the

day in reparing and corking the perogue and canoes. it continued to

rain by showers all day. about 20 of the Y-eh-huhs remained with me the

greater part of the day and departed in the evening. they conducted

themselves with much propryety and contemned the conduct of their

relations towards us. We purchased one sheepskin for which we gave the

skin of an Elk and one of a deer. this animal was killed by the man who

sold us the skin near this place; he informed us that they were

abundant among the mountains and usually resorted the rocky parts. the

big horned animal is also an inhabitant of these mountains. I saw

several robes of their skins among the natives.as the evening was rainy

cold and far advanced and ourselves wet we determined to remain all

night. the mountains are high steep and rocky. the rock is principally

black. they are covered with fir of several speceis and the white

cedar. near the river we find the Cottonwood, sweet willow, broad

leafed ash, a species of maple, the purple haw, a small speceis of

cherry; purple currant, goosberry, red willow, vining and white burry

honeysuckle, huckkle burry, sacacommis, two speceis of mountain holley,

&common ash. for the three last days this inclusive we have made only 7

miles.

[Clark, April 12, 1806]

Saturday April 12th 1806.

rained the greater part of the last night and this morning untile 10

A.M. we employed all hands in attempting to take up the lost Canoe. in

attempting to pass by a rock against which the Current run with emence

force, the bow unfortunately took the Current at too great a distance

from the rock, She turned broad Side to the Stream, and the exertions

of every man was not Sufficient to hold her. the men were Compelled to

let go the rope and both the Canoe and rope went with the Stream. the

loss of this Canoe will I fear Compell us to purchase another at an

extravigent price. after brackfast all hands who were employed in

Carrying the baggage over the portage 11/2 miles which they performed

by 4 P.M. the nativs did not visit us in Such Crouds to day as

yesterday. we Caused all the men of the party who ha Short guns to

carry them on the portage for fear of Some attempt on the part of the

nativs to rob the party. The rain Continued at intervales all day. in

the evening after everry thing was taken from the lower Camp I Set out

myself accompanied by the Cheif of the Clah-clal lars to the head of

the portage. as we passed the remains of an old Village about half way

the portage, this Cheif informed me that this old Village had been the

residence of his Tribe dureing the last Salmon Season. this village I

mentiond in decending this river, but did not know the Tribes that had

inhabited it that time. Capt. Lewis took a vocabulary of the languge of

those people whilst I had all the baggage taken across the portage & we

formed a Camp at the place we had encamped on our way down.

at my arival at the head of the portage found about 20 of the natives

of the Wy ach hich tribe who reside above the rapids, with Capt Lewis.

those people appeared much better disposed towards us than either the

Clahclallah or Wahclellah and Condemn their Conduct much. Those tribes

I believe to be all the Same Nation their Language habits manners dress

&c. are presisely alike and differ but little from those below the

Great Narrows of this river. I observed a woman with a Sheep Skin robe

on which I purchased for one Elk and one deer Skin. the father of this

woman informed me that he had killed the animal off of which he had

taken this Skin on the mountains imediately above his village, and that

on those mountains great numbers of those animals were to be found in

large flocks among the Steep rocks. I also purchased 2 pieces of

Chapellell and Some roots of those people. as the evening was rainey

and ourselves and party wet we Concluded to delay untill the morning

and dry our selves. The Indians left us about 6 P M and returned to

their Village on the opposit Side. mountains are high on each Side and

Covered with Snow for about 1/3 of the way down. the growth is

principally fir and White Cedar. the bottoms and low Situations is

Covered with a variety Such as Cotton, large leafed ash, Sweet willow a

Species of beech, alder, white thorn, cherry of a Small Speces, Servis

berry bushes, Huckleberries bushes, a Speces of Lorel &c. &c. I saw a

turkey buzzard which is the 3rd which I have Seen west of the rocky

mountains. the 1st was on the 7 inst. above quick Sand river. for the

three last days this inclusive we have made 7 miles only.

[Lewis, April 13, 1806]

Sunday April 13th 1806.

The loss of one of our perogues rendered it necessary to distribute her

crew and cargo among the 2 remaining perogues and 2 canoes, which being

done we loaded and set out 8 A.M. we passed the village immediately

above the rapids where only one house at present remains entire, the

other 8 having been taken down and removed to the oposite side of the

river as before mentioned. we found the additional laiding which we had

been compelled to put on board rendered our vessels extreemly

inconvenient to mannage and in short reather unsafe in the event of

high winds; I therefore left Capt. C. with the two perogues to proceede

up the river on the N. side, and with the two canoes and some

additional hands passed over the river above the rapids to the Y-eh-huh

village in order to purchase one or more canoes. I found the village

consisting of 11 houses crouded with inhabitants; it appeared to me

that they could have mustered about 60 fighting men then present. they

appeared very friendly disposed, and I soon obtained two small canoes

from them for which I gave two robes and four elkskins. I also

purchased four paddles and three dogs from them with deerskins. the dog

now constitutes a considerable part of our subsistence and with most of

the party has become a favorite food; certain I am that it is a healthy

strong diet, and from habit it has become by no means disagreeable to

me, I prefer it to lean venison or Elk, and is very far superior to the

horse in any state. after remaining about 2 hours at this Village I

departed and continued my rout with the four canoes along the S. side

of the river the wind being too high to pass over to the entrance of

Cruzatts river where I expected to have overtaken Capt. C. not seing

the perogues on the opposite side I ascended the river untill one

oclock or about 5 ms. above the entrance of Cruzat's river. being

convinced that the perogues were behind I halted and directed the men

to dress the dogs and cook one of them for dinner; a little before we

had completed our meal Capt. C. arrived with the perogues and landed

opposite to us. after dinner I passed the river to the perogues and

found that Capt. C. had halted for the evening and was himself hunting

with three of the party. the men in formed me that they had seen

nothing of the hunters whom we had sent on the 11th ints. to the

Entrance of Cruzatt's Riv. I directed Sergt. ordway to take the two

small canoes for his mess and the loading which he had formerly carried

in the perogue we lost yesterday, and to have them dryed this evening

and payed with rozin. Capt. Clark returned in about an hour and being

convinced that the hunters were yet behind we dispatched Sergt. Pryor

in surch of them with two men and an empty canoe to bring the meat they

may have killed. John Sheilds returned a little after six P.M. with two

deer which he had killed. these were also of the blacktailed fallow

deer; there appears to be no other speceis of deer in these mountains.

Capt. C. informed me that the wind had detained him several hours a

little above Cruzatt's river; that while detained here he sent out some

men to hunt; one of them wounded two deer but got neither of them. the

wind having lulled in the evening and not seing anything of Drewyer and

the Feildses he had proceeded on to this place where he intended

waiting for me, and as he did not see my canoes when he landed had

taken a hunt with some of the men as before mentioned.

[Clark, April 13, 1806]

Sunday April 13th 1806

The loss of one of our large Canoes rendered it necessary to divide the

loading and men of that Canoe between the remaining four, which was

done and we loaded and Set out at 8 oClock A.M. passed the village

imediately above the rapids, where only one house remains entire the

other 8 haveing been taken down and moved to the opposit Side of the

Columbia as already mentioned. the additional men and baggage in each

Canoe renders them Crouded and unsafe. Capt. Lewis with 2 of the

Smallest Canoes of Sergt. Pryor & gibson and Crossed above the Rapids

to the Village on the S E Side with a view to purchase a Canoe of the

nativs if possible. he took with him Some Cloth and a fiew Elk skins

and Deer Skins. I with the two large Canoes proceeded on up the N. W.

Side with the intention of gitting to the Encampment of our hunters who

was derected to hunt in the bottom above Crusats River, and there wait

the arival of Capt. Lewis. I proceeded on to the bottom in which I

expected to find the hunters but Could See nothing of them. the wind

rose and raised the ways to Such a hight that I could not proceed any

further. we landed and I sent out Shields and Colter to hunt; Shields

Shot two deer but Could get neither of them. I walkd. to Crusats river

and up it 1/2 a mile on my return to the party found that the wind had

lulled and as we Could See nothing of our hunters. I deturmined to

proceed on to the next bottom where I thought it probable they had

halted at 1/2 passed 2 P M Set out and proceeded on to the bottom 6

miles and halted at the next bottom formed a Camp and Sent out all the

hunters. I also walked out my self on the hills but saw nothing. on my

return found Capt. Lewis at Camp with two canoes which he had purchased

at the Y-ep-huh village for two robes and four elkskins. he also

purchased 4 paddles and three Dogs from the nativs with deer Skins. the

dogs now constitutes a considerable part of our Subsistance & with most

of the party has become a favourable food. Certain I am that is a

helthy Strong diet, derected Serjt. ordway to take the 2 Small Canoes

purchased by Capt. Lewis for his mess and the loading he had in his

Canoe which we lost yesterday, and drawed up and paid with rozin.

I was convinced that the hunters must have been up River Cruzatt.

despatched Sergt. Pryor with 2 men in a Canoe, with directions to

assend Crusats River and if he found the hunters to assist them in with

the meat. Jo. Shields returned about Sunset with two deer which he had

killed, those were of the Black tail fallow Deer. there appears to be

no other Species of Deer in those mountains. We proceeded on 12 miles.

[Lewis, April 14, 1806]

Monday April 14th 1806.

This morning at seven oCk. we were joined by Sergt. Pryor and the three

hunters they brought with them 4 deer which Drewyer had killed

yesterday. we took breakfast and departed. at 9 A.M. the wind arrose

and continued hard all day but not so violent as to prevent our

proceeding. we kept close along the N. shore all day. the river from

the rapids as high as the commencement of the narrows is from 1/2 to

3/4 of a mile in width, and possesses scarcely any current. the bed is

principally rock except at the entrance of Labuish's river which heads

in Mount hood and like the quicksand river brings down from thence vast

bodies of sand. the mountains through which the river passes nearly to

the sepulchre rock, are high broken, rocky, partially covered with fir

white cedar, and in many places exhibit very romantic seenes. some

handsome cascades are seen on either hand tumbling from the stupendious

rocks of the mountains into the river. near the border of the river I

observed today the long leafed pine. this pine increases in quantity as

you ascend the river and about the sepulchre rock where the lower

country commences it superceedes the fir altogether. throughout the

whole course of this river from the rapids as high as the

Chilluckkittequaws, we find the trunks of many large pine trees sanding

erect as they grew at present in 30 feet water; they are much doated

and none of them vegetating; at the lowest tide of the river many of

these trees are in ten feet water. certain it is that those large pine

trees never grew in that position, nor can I account for this

phenomenon except it be that the passage of the river through the

narrow pass at the rapids has been obstructed by the rocks which have

fallen from the hills into that channel within the last 20 years; the

appearance of the hills at that place justify this opinion, they appear

constantly to be falling in, and the apparent state of the decayed

trees would seem to fix the era of their decline about the time

men-tioned. at 1 P.M. we arrived at a large village situated in a

narrow bottom on the N. side a little above the entrance of canoe

creek. their houses are reather detatched and extent for several miles.

they are about 20 in number. These people call themselves We-ock-sock,

Wil-lacum. they differ but litte in appeance dress &c. from those of

the rapids. Their men have some leging and mockersons among them. these

are in the stile of Chopunnish. they have some good horses of which we

saw ten or a douzen. these are the fist horses we have met with since

we left this neighbourhood last fall, in short the country below this

place will not permit the uce of this valuable animal except in the

Columbian vally and there the present inhabitants have no uce for them

as they reside immediately on the river and the country is too thickly

timbered to admit them to run the game with horses if they had them. we

halted at this village and dined. purchased five dogs some roots,

shappalell, filberds and dryed burries of the inhabitants. here I

observed several habitations entirely under grownd; they were sunk

about 8 feet deep and covered with strong timber and several feet of

earth in a conic form. these habitations were evacuated at present.

they are about 16 feet in diameter, nearly circular, and are entered

through a hole at the top which appears to answer the double purpose of

a chimney and a door. from this entrance you decend to the floor by a

ladder. the present habitations of these people were on the surface of

the ground and do not differ from those of the tribes of the rapids.

their language is the same with that of the Chilluckkittequaws. these

people appeared very friendly. some of them informed us that they had

lately returned from a war excurtion against the snake indians who

inhabit the upper part of the Multnomah river to the S. E. of them.

they call them To-wannah'-hi'-ooks. that they had been fortunate in

their expedition and had taken from their enimies most of the horses

which we saw in their possession. after dinner we pursued our voyage;

Capt. Clark walked on shore with Charbono. I ascended the river about

six miles at which place the river washed the base of high clifts on

the Lard. side, here we halted a few minutes and were joined by Capt.

C. and Charbono and proceeded on to the entrance of a small run on N.

side a little below a large village on the same side opposite the

sepulchre rock. this village can raise about an hundred fighting men

they call themselves. they do not differ in any rispect from the

village below. many of them visited our camp this evening and remained

with us untill we went to bed. they then left us and retired to their

quarters.-

[Clark, April 14, 1806]

Monday April 14th 1806

This morning at 7 oClock we were joined by Sgt. Pryor and they three

hunters they brought with them 4 deer which drewyer had killed

yesterday. we took brackfast and departed at 9 A.M. the wind rose and

Continued to blow hard all day but not so violent as to prevent our

proceeding. we kept Close allong the N. Shore all day. the river from

the rapids to the Commencement of the narrows is from 1/2 to 3/4 of a

Mile in wedth, and possesses but little Current. the bead is rock

except at the enterence of Labiech's river which heads in Mt. Hood and

like the quick Sand River brings down from thence Vast bodies of Sand

the Mountains through which the river passes nearly to Cataract River

are high broken rocky, particularly Covered with fir and white Cedar,

and in maney places very romantic scenes. Some handsom Cascades are

Seen on either Side tumbling from the Stupendious rocks of the

mountains into the river. I observe near the river the long leafed Pine

which increas as we assend and Superseeds the fir altogether about the

Sepulchre rock. We find the trunks of maney large pine trees Standing

erect as they grew, at present in 30 feet water; they are much doated

and none of them vegitateing. at the lowest water of the river maney of

those trees are in 10 feet water. the Cause I have attempted to account

for as I decended. at 1 P M. we arrived at a large village Situated in

a narrow bottom on the N. Side a little above the enterance of Canoe

Creek. their houses are reather detached, and extend for Several Miles.

they are about 20 in number. those people Call themselves Wil-la-cum.

they differ but little in appearance dress &c. from those of the

rapids. their men have Some legins and mockersons among them. those are

in the Stile of Chopunnish. they have Some good horss of which we Saw

10 or 12 these are the first horses we have met with Since we left this

neighbourhood last fall in Short the Country below this place will not

permit the use of this valuable animal except in the Columbian vally,

and there the present inhabitents have no use for them as they reside

imediately on the river and the Country is too thickly timbd. We halted

at this village Dined and purchased five dogs, Some roots Chappalell,

Philberds and dried berries of the inhabitents. here I observed Several

habitations under ground; they were Sunk about 8 feet deep and covered

with Strong timber and Several feet of earth in a conic form. those

habitations are avacuated at present. they are about 16 feet diamieter,

nearly Circular, and are entered through a hole at top which appears to

answer the double purpose of a Chimney and a dore. from this enterance

you decend to the flore by a ladder. the present habitations of those

people were on the Surface of the ground and do not differ from those

of the tribes about the Rapids. their language is the Same with the Che

luck kit to quaws. these people appeared very friendly. Some of them

informed us that they had latterly returned from the War excurtion

against the Snake Indians who inhabit the upper part of the Multnomah

river to the S. E. of them they Call them To wan nah hi ooks. that they

had been fortunate in the expidition and had taken from their enimies

most of the horses which we Saw in their possession. after dinner we

proceeded on our voyage. I walked on Shore with Shabono on the N. Side

through a handsom bottom. met Several parties of women and boys in

Serch of herbs & roots to Subsist on maney of them had parcels of the

Stems of the Sunflower. I joined Capt Lewis and the party at 6 miles,

at which place the river washed the bottom of high Clifts on the N.

Side. Several Canoes over take us with families moveing up. we passed 3

encampments and came too in the mouth of a Small Creek on the N. Side

imediately below a village and opposit the Sepulchar rock. this village

Consists of about 100 fighting men of Several tribes from the plains to

the North Collected here waiting for the Salmon. they do not differ in

any respect from those below. many of them visited our Camp this

evening and remaind. with us untill we went to bead. they then left us

and returned to their quarters. made ____ miles.

[Lewis, April 15, 1806]

Tuesday April 15th 1806

We delayed this morning untill after breakfast in order to purchase

some horses of the Indians; accordingly we exposed some articles in

exchange for horses the natives were unwilling to barter, we therefore

put up our merchandize and at 8 A.M. we set out. we halted a few

minutes at the sepulchre rock, and examined the deposits of the ded at

that place. these were constructed in the same manner of those already

discribed below the rapids. some of them were more than half filled

with dead bodies. there were thirteen sepulchres on this rock which

stands near the center of the river and has a surface of about 2 acres

above highwater mark.--from hence we returned to the nothern shore and

continued up it about four miles to another village of the same nation

with whom we remained last night. here we halted and informed the

natives of our wish to purchase horses; the produced us several for

sale but would not take the articles which we had in exchange for them.

they wanted an instrumet which the Northwest traders call an eye-dag

which we had not. we procured two dogs of them and departed. a little

below the entrance of Cataract river we halted at another village of

the same people, at which we were equally unsuccessful) in the purchase

of horses. we also halted at the two villages of the Chilluckkittequaws

a few miles above with no better success. at three in the evening we

arrived at the entrance of Quinnette creek which we ascended a short

distance and encamped at the place we have called rockfort camp. here

we were visited by some of the people from the villages at the great

narrows and falls. we informed them of our wish to purchase horses, &

agreed to meet them on the opposite or North side of the river tomorrow

for the purpose of bartering with them. most of them returned to their

villages this evening three only remained with us all night. these

people are much better clad than any of the nations below; their men

have generally leging mockersons and large robes, many of them wear

shirts of the same form those of the Chopunnish and Shoshonees highly

ornamented with the quills of the porcupine as are also their

mockersons and legings. they conceal the parts of generation with the

skin of a fox or some other small animal drawn underneath a girdle and

hanging loosly in front of them like a narrow apron. the dress of their

women differs very little from those about the rapids. both men and

women cut their hair in the forehead which comes down as low as the

eyebrows, they have long earlocks cut square at the end. the other part

of their hair is dressed in the same manner as those of the rapids.

after we landed and formed our camp this evening Drewyer and some

others took a hunt and killed a deer of the longtailed kind. it was a

buck and the young horns had shot fourth about 2 inches.

[Clark, April 15, 1806]

Tuesday April 15th 1806

We delayed this morning untill after brackfast in order to purchase

Some horses of the Indians; accordingly we exposed Some articles in

exchange for horses the nativs were unwilling to exchange their horses,

we put up our merchindize and at 8 A M. Set out. we halted a fiew

minits at the Sepulchar rock and examined the deposit of the dead at

that place. those were Constructed in the Same manner of those already

described below the rapids. Some of them were more than half filled

with dead bodies. there were 13 Sepulchers on this rock which Stands

near the Center of the river, and has a Cerface of about two acres

above the water.-. from hence we returned to the Northern Shore and

Continued up it about 4 miles to a Village at the enterance of Cateract

River, here we halted and informed the nativs of our wish to purchase

horses; the produced Several for Sale but would not take the articles

we had in exchange for them. they wanted an instriment which the Northw

Traders call an eye dag which we had not. we precured two dogs and

departed we also halted at the two villages of the Chil luck kitequaws

a fiew Ms. above with no better Sucksess. at 3 in the evening we

arivied at the enterance of Quinnett Creek which we assended a Short

distance and Encamped at the place we had Called rock fort Camp. here

we were visited by Some of the people from the Villages at the long

Narrows & Falls. we informed them of our wish to purchase horses, and

agreed to meet them on the opposit or north Side on tomorrow for the

purpose of bartering with them. most of them returned to their village

this evening three only remained with us all night. those people are

much better Clad than the nativs below. their men have generaly Legins

mockersons & large robes. Maney of them were Shirts of the Same form of

those of the Chopunnish & Shoshonees highly ornamented with the quils

of the purcupine, as are also their mockersons & Legins. they Conseal

the parts of generation with the Skins of the Fox or Some other Small

animal drawn under neath a girdle and hanging loosely in front of them

like a narrow apron. The dress of their women differ verry little from

those about the rapids. both men & women Cut their hair in the forehead

which comes down as low as the Eyebrows, they have long ear locks Cut

Square at the end. The other parts of their hair is dressed in the Same

Manner as those of the rapids. after we landld and formed our Camp this

evening Drewyer and some oths took a hunt and killed a Deer of the log

tailed kind. it was a Buck and the young deer horns had Shot foth about

two inches made ____ miles to day.