Wednesday April 30th 1806.
This morning we had some difficulty in collecting our horses
notwithstanding we had bubbled and picquited those we obtained of these
people. we purchased two other horses this morning and several dogs. we
exchanged one of our most indifferent horses for a very good one with
the Chopunnish man who has his family with him. this man has a daughter
new arrived at the age of puberty, who being in a certain situation is
not permitted to ascociate with the family but sleeps at a distance
from her father's camp and when traveling follows at some distance
behind. in this state I am informed that the female is not permitted to
eat, nor to touch any article of a culinary nature or manly occupation.
at 10 A.M. we had collected all our horses except the white horse which
Yellept had given Capt. C. the whole of the men soon after returned
without being able to find this horse. I lent my horse to Yellept to
surch Capt. C's about half an hour after he set out our Chopunnish man
brought up Capt. C's horse we now determined to leave one man to bring
on my horse when Yellept returned and to proceed on with the party
accordingly we took leave of these friendly honest people the
Wollahwollahs and departed at 11 A.M. accompanyed by our guide and the
Chopunnish man and family. we continued our rout N. 30 E. 14 ms.
through an open level sandy plain to a bold Creek 10 yds. wide. this
stream is a branch of the Wallahwollah river into which it discharges
itself about six miles above the junction of that river with the
Columbia. it takes it's rise in the same range of mountains to the East
of the sources of the main branch of the same. it appears to be
navigable for canoes; it is deep and has a bold current. there are many
large banks of pure sand which appear to have been drifted up by the
wind to the hight of 15 or 20 feet, lying in many parts of the plain
through which we passed today. this plain as usual is covered with
arromatic shrubs hurbatious plants and a short grass. many of those
plants produce those esculent roots which form a principal part of the
subsistence of the natives. among others there is one which produces a
root somewhat like the sweet pittaitoe.--we encamped at the place we
intersepted the creek where we had the pleasure once more to find an
abundance of good wood for the purpose of making ourselves comfortable
fires, which has not been the case since we left rock fort camp.
Drewyer killed a beaver and an otter; a pan of the former we reserved
for ourselves and gave the indians the ballance. these people will not
eat the dog but feast heartily on the otter which is vastly inferior in
my estimation, they sometimes also eat their horses, this indeed is
common to all the indians who possess this annimal in the plains of
Columbia; but it is only done when necessity compells them.--the narrow
bottom of this creek is very fertile, tho the plains are poor and
sandy. the hills of the creek are generally abrupt and rocky. there is
a good store of timber on this creek at least 20 fold more than on the
Columbia river itself. it consists of Cottonwood, birch, the crimson
haw, redwillow, sweetwillow, chokecherry yellow currants, goosberry,
whiteberryed honeysuckle rose bushes, seven bark, and shoemate. I
observed the corngrass and rushes in some parts of the bottom. Reubin
Feilds overtook us with my horse. our stock of horses has now encresed
to 23 and most of them excellent young horses, but much the greater
portion of them have soar backs. these indians are cruell
horse-masters; they ride hard, and their saddles are so illy
constructed that they cannot avoid wounding the backs of their horses;
but reguardless of this they ride them when the backs of those poor
annimals are in a horrid condition.
[Clark, April 30, 1806]
Wednesday April 30th 1806.
This morning we had Some dificuelty in Collecting our horses
notwithstanding we had hobbled & Picqueted those we obtained of those
people. we purchased two other horses this morning and 4 dogs. we
exchanged one of our most indeferent horses for a very good one with
the Choponnish man who has his family with him. this man has a doughter
now arived at the age of puberty who being in a certain Situation-is
not permited to acoiate with the family but Sleeps at a distance from
her father's Camp, and when traveling follows at Some distance be-hind.
in this State I am informed that the female is not permited to eat, nor
to touch any article of a culinary nature or manly occupation. at 10
A.M. we had Collected all our horses except the White horse which
Yelleppit the Great Chief had given me. the whole of the men haveing
returned without being able to find this hors. I informed the chief and
he mounted Capt Lewis's horse and went in Serch of the horse himself.
about half an hour after the Chopunnish man brought my horse. we
deturmined to proceed on with the party leaving one man to bring up
Capt L.-s horse when Yelleppit Should return. We took leave of those
honest friendly people the Wallah wallahs and departed at 11 A.M.
accompanied by our guide and the Chopunnish man and family. we
Continued our rout N. 30° E. 14 ms. through an open leavel Sandy Plain to
a bold Creek 10 yards wide. this stream is a branch of the Wallahwallah
river, and takes it's rise in the same range of mountains to the East
of the main branch. deep and has a bold Current. there are maney large
banks of pure Sand which appear to have been drifted up by the wind to
the hight of 20 or 30 feet, lying in maney parts of the plains through
which we passed to day. This plain as usial is covered with arromatic
Shrubs, hurbatious plants and tufts of Short grass. Maney of those
plants produce those esculent roots which forms a principal part of the
Subsistance of the Nativs. among others there is one which produce a
root Somewhat like the Sweet potato. We encamped at the place we
intersepted the Creek where we had the pleasure once more to find a
Sufficency of wood for the purpose of makeing ourselves comfortable
fires, which has not been the Case Since we left Rock fort Camp below
the falls. Drewyer killed a beaver and an otter. the narrow bottoms of
this Creek is fertile. tho the plains are pore & Sandy. the hills of
the Creek are generaly abrupt and rocky. there is Some timber on this
Creek. it consists of Cotton wood, birch, the Crimson haw, red willow,
Sweet willow, Choke Cherry, yellow Current, goose berry, white berried
honey suckle, rose bushes, Seven bark, Shoemate &c. &c. rushes in Some
parts of the bottoms.
R. Fields over took us with Capt Lewis's horse our Stock of horses have
now increased to 23 and most of them excellent young horses, but much
the greatest part of them have Sore backs. those Indians are cruel
horse masters; they ride hard and their Saddles illey constructed. &c.
&c.
[Lewis, May 1, 1806]
Thursday May 1st 1806.
We collected our horses tolerably early this morning took and set out a
little after 7 A.M. we pursued the indian road which led us up the
creek about nine miles, here the Chopunnish man wo was in front with me
informed that an old unbeaten tract which he pointed out to the left
was our nearest rout. we halted the party and directed them to unload
and let their horses graize untill our guide came up who was at some
distance behind. I wished to obtain good information of this newly
recommended tract before I could consent to leave the present road
which seemed to lead us in the proper direction was level and furnished
with wood and water. when the guide arrived he seemed much displeased
with the other, he assured us that the rout up the creek was the
nearest, and much the best, that if we took the other we would be
obliged to remain here untill tomorrow morning, and then travel a whole
day before we could reach water, and that there was no wood; the other
agreed that this was the case. we therefore did not hesitate to pursue
the rout recommended by the guide. the creek, it's bottom lands, and
the appearance of the plains were much as those of esterday only with
this difference that the latter were not so sandy. we had sent out four
hunters this morning two on foot and 2 on horseback they joined us
while we halted here. Drewyer had killed a beaver. at 1 P.M. we resumed
our march, leaving the Chopunnish man and his family; he had determined
to remain at that place untill the next morning and then pursue the
rout he had recommended to us. he requested a small quantity of powder
and lead which we gave him. we traveled 17 miles this evening, making a
total of 26 Ms. and encamped. the first 3 miles of our afternoons march
was through a similar country with that of the forenoon; the creek
bottoms then became higher and widened to the extent of from 2 to 3 Ms.
the hills on the N. side were low but those on the opposite side
retained their hight. we saw a number of deer of which Labuish killed
one. the timber on the creek becomes more abundant and it's extensive
bottoms affords a pleasent looking country. the guide informs us that
we shall now find a plenty of wood water and game quite to the
Kooskooske. we saw a great number of the Curloos, some Grains, ducks,
prarie larks and several speceis of sparrows common to the praries. I
see very little difference between the apparent face of the country
here and that of the plains of the Missouri only that these are not
enlivened by the vast herds of buffaloe Elk &c which ornament the
other. the courses and distances of this day are N. 45 E. 9 M. and N.
75 E. 17 M. along the Northern side of this creek to our encampment.
some time after we had encamped three young men arrived from the
Wallahwollah village bringing with them a steel trap belonging to one
of our party which had been neglegently left behind; this is an act of
integrity rarely witnessed among indians. during our stay with them
they several times found the knives of the men which had been
carelessly lossed by them and returned them. I think we can justly
affirm to the honor of these people that they are the most hospitable,
honest, and sincere people that we have met with in our voyage.
[Clark, May 1, 1806]
Thursday May 1st 1806.
This morning we collected our horses and made an early Start, haveing
preveously Sent a hed 4 hunters with derections to proceed up the Creek
and kill every Species of game which they might meet with. the Small
portion of rain which fell last night Caused the road to be much furmer
and better than yesterday. the morning Cloudy and Cool. we proceeded up
the Creek on the N. E. Side through a Countrey of less sand and Some
rich bottoms on the Creek which is partially Supplyed with Small Cotton
trees, willow, red willow, choke Cherry, white thorn, birch, elder,
____ rose & honey suckle. Great portion of these bottoms has been
latterly burnt which has entirely distroyed the timbered growth. at the
distance of nine miles we over took our hunters, they had killed one
bever only at this place the road forked, one leaveing the Creek and
the Corse of it is nearly North. the Chopunnish who had accompanied us
with his family informed us that this was our best way. that it was a
long distance without water. and advised us to Camp on the Creek at
this place and in the morning to Set out early. This information
perplexed us a little, in as much as the idea of going a days march
without water thro an open Sandy plain and on a Course 50° out of our
derection. we deturmined to unlode and wate for our Guide, or the
Chopunnish man who had accompanied us from the long Narrows, who was in
the rear with Drewyer our interpreter. on his arrival we enquired of
him which was the best and most direct roade for us to take. he
informed us that the road pointed out by his cumerade was through a
open hilly and Sandy Countrey to the river Lewis's River, and was a
long ways around, and that we Could not git to any water to day. the
other roade up the creek was a more derect Course, plenty of water wood
and only one hill in the whole distance and the road which he had
always recomended to us. Some words took place between those two men
the latter appeared in great pation Mounted his horse and Set out up
the Creek. we Sent a man after him and brought him back informed him
that we believed what he Said and Should imedeately after dinner
proceed on the road up the Creek with him. we gave the former man Some
powder and ball which had been promised him, and after an early dinner
Set out up the Creek with our guide leaveing the Chopunnish man and his
family encamped at the forks of the road where they intended to Stay
untill the morning and proceed on the rout he had recommended to us. we
traviled 17 miles this evening makeing a total of 26 mls. and encamped.
the first 3 miles of our afternoons march was through a Simaler Country
of that of the fore noon; the Creek bottoms then became higher and
wider; to the extent of from 2 to 3 miles. we Saw Several Deer of which
Labiech killed one. the timber on the Creek become more abundant and
less burnt, and its extensive bottoms afford a pleasent looking
Country. we Saw a Great number of Curloos, Some Crains, Ducks, prarie
cocks, and Several Species of Sparrows common to the praries. I See
Very little difference between the apparant face of the Country here
and that of the plains of the Missouri. only that those are not
enlivened by the vast herds of Buffalow, Elk &c. which animated those
of the Missouri. The Courses & distances of this day are N. 45° E. 9 mls.
& N. 75° E. 17 Miles allong the North Side of this Creek to our
encampment. Sometime after we had encamped three young men arrived from
the Wallah wallah Village bringing with them a Steel trap belonging to
one of our party which had been negligently left behind; this is an act
of integrity rearly witnessed among Indians. dureing our Stay with them
they Several times found the knives of the men which had been Carefully
lossed by them and returned them. I think we can justly affirm to the
honor of those people that they are the most hospitable, honist and
Sencere people that we have met with on our Voyage.-
[Lewis, May 2, 1806]
Friday May 2cd 1806.
This morning we dispatched two hunters a head. we had much difficulty
in collecting our horses. at 8 A.M. we obtained them all except the
horse we obtained from the Chopunnish man whom we seperated from
yesterday. we apprehended that this horse would make some attempts to
rejoin the horses of this man and accordingly had him as we thought
securely bubbled both before and at the side, but he broke the strings
in the course of the night and absconded. we sent several men in
different directions in surch of him. I engaged one of the young
indians who overtook us last evening to return in surch of him. at half
after 1 P.M. The indian and Joseph Feilds returned with the horse, they
had found him on his way back about 17 Ms. I paid the indian the price
stipulated for his services and we immediately loaded up and set
forward. steered East 3 M. over a hilly road along the N. side of the
Creek, wide bottom on S. side. a branch falls in on S. side which runs
south towards the S. W. mountains which appear to be about 25 Ms.
distant low yet covered with snow N. 75 E. 7 through an extensive level
bottom. more timber than usual on the creek, some pine of the long
leafed kind appears on the sides of the creek hills, also about 50
acres of well timbered pine land where we passed the creek at 4 m. on
this course N. 45 E. 9 ms. repassed the creek at 4 M. and continued up
a N. E. branch of the same which falls in about a mile below where we
passed the main creek. the bottoms though which we passed were wide.
the main creek boar to the S. and heads in the Mountains; it's bottoms
are much narrower above where we passed it and the hills appear high.
we passed the small creek at 83/4 from the commencement of this course
and encamped on the N. side in a little bottom, having traveled 19
miles today. at this place the road leaves the creek and takes the open
high plain. this creek is about 4 yds. wide and bears East as far as I
could observe it. I observed considerable quantities of the qua-mash in
the bottoms through which we passed this evening now in blume. there is
much appearance of beaver and otter along these creeks. saw two deer at
a distance; also observed many sandhill crains Curloos and other fowls
common to the plains. the soil appears to improve as we advance on this
road. our hunters killed a duck only. the three young men of the
Wollahwollah nation continued with us. in the course of the day I
observed them eat the inner part of the young and succulent stem of a
large coarse plant with a ternate leaf, the leafets of which are three
loabed and covered with a woolly pubersence. the flower and
fructification resembles that of the parsnip this plant is very common
in the rich lands on the Ohio and it's branches the Mississippi &c. I
tasted of this plant found it agreeable and eat heartily of it without
feeling any inconvenience.
[Clark, May 2, 1806]
Friday May 2nd 1806
This morning we dispatched two hunters a head. we had much dificuelty
in Collecting our horses. at 8 A.M. we obtained them all except the
horse we obtained from the Chopunnish man whome we Seperated from
yesterday. we apprehended that this horse would make Some attempts to
rejoin the horses of this man and accordingly had him as we thought
Scurely hobbled both before and at the Side, but he broke the Strings
in the Course of the night and absconded. we Sent Several men in
different directions in Serch of him. and hired one of the men who
joined us last night to prosue him and over take us & at 4 after 1 P.M.
the indian and Joseph Fields returned with the horse they had found him
on his way back about 17 miles. I paid the Indian the price Stipulated
for his Services and we imediately loaded up and Set forward. East 3
miles over a hilly road along the N. Side of the Creek. wide bottoms on
the S. Side. a branch falls in on the S. side which runds from the S W.
Mountains, which appear to be about 25 m. distant low yet Covered with
Snow. N. 75° E. 7 m. through an extencive leavel bottom. more timber than
usial on the Creek. Some pine of the long leaf kind appear on the Creek
hills. also about 50 acres of well timbered pine land where we passed
the Creek at 4 m. on the Course. N. 45° E. 9 m. passed the Creek at 4 M.
and Continued up on the N. E. Side. the bottoms wide. the main creek
bear to the S. and head in the Mountains. we passed a Small Creek at
83/4 m. from the Commencement of this Course and encamped on the N.
Side in a little bottom. haveing traviled 19 miles to day. at this
place the road leaves the Creek and passes through the open high
plains. this creek is 5 yds wide and bears East towards the Mts. I
observed a Considerable quantity of the qua mash in the bottoms through
which we passed this evening now in blume. there is much appearance of
beaver & otter along these creeks. Saw two deer at a distance, also
Sand hill Cranes, Curloos and fowls common to the plains. the Soil
appears to improve as we advance on this road. our hunters killed a
deer only. The three young men of the Wallah wallah nation Continue
with us in the Course of this day. I observed them cut the inner part
of the young and succulent Stem of a large Corse plant with a ternate
leaf, the leafets of which are three loabes and Covered with woolly
pubersence. the flower and fructification resembles that of the
parsnip. this plant is very common in the rich lands on the Ohio and
its branches. I tasted of this plant found it agreeable and eate
hartily of it without feeling any inconveniance.
[Lewis, May 3, 1806]
Saturday May 3rd 1806.
This morning we set out at 7 A.M. steered N. 25 E 12 ms. to Kimooenem
Creek through a high level plain. this creek is about 12 yds. wide
pebbly bottom low banks and discharges a considerable body of water it
heads in the S. W. mountains and discharges itself into Lewis's river a
few miles above the narrows. the bottoms of this creek are narrow with
some timber principally Cottonwood and willow. the under brush such as
mentioned on N. East Creek. the hills are high and abrupt. the land of
the plains is much more fertile than below, less sand and covered with
taller grass; very little of the aromatic shrubs appear in this part of
the plain. we halted and dined at this creek; after which we again
proceeded N. 45 E. 3 M. through the high plain to a small creek 5 yds.
wide branch of the Kimooenem C. this stream falls into the creek some
miles below. the hills of this creek like those of the Kimooenem are
high it's bottoms narrow and possess but little timber, lands of a good
quality, a dark rich loam. we continued our rout up this creek, on it's
N. side. N. 75 E. 7 Ms. the timber increases in quantity the hills
continue high. East 4 Ms. up the creek. here we met with We-ark-koomt
whom we have usually distinguished by the name of the bighorn Cheif
from the circumstance of his always wearing a horn of that animal
suspended by a cord to he left arm. he is the 1st Cheif of a large band
of the Chopunnish nation. he had 10 of his young men with him. this man
went down Lewis's river by land as we decended it by water last fall
quite to the Columbia and I beleive was very instrumental in procuring
us a hospitable and friendly reception among the natives. he had now
come a considerable distance to meet us. after meeting this cheif we
continued still up the creek bottoms N. 75. E. 2 m to the place at
which the road leaves the creek and ascends the hills to the plain here
we encamped in small grove of cottonwood tree which in some measure
broke the violence of the wind. we came 28 ms. today. it rained hailed
snowed and blowed with great violence the greater portion of the day.
it was fortunate for us that this storm was from the S. W. and of
course on our backs. the air was very cold. we divided the last of our
dryed meat at dinner when it was consumed as well as the ballance of
our dogs nearly we made but a scant supper and had not anything for
tomorrow; however We-arkkoomt consoled us with the information that
there was an indian lodge on the river at no great distance where we
might supply ourselves with provision tomorrow. our guide and the three
young Wallahwollahs left us this morning reather abruptly and we have
seen nothing of them since. the S. W. mountains appear to become lower
as they proceede to the N. E. this creek reaches the mountains. we are
nearer to them than we were last evening
[Clark, May 3, 1806]
Saturday 3rd May 1806
This morning we Set out at 7 A.M. Steared N. 25° E 12 m. to Kimoo e nimm
Creek through a high leavel plain this Creek is 12 yds. wide pebbly
bottom low banks and discharges a Considerable quanty of water it head
in the S W. Mountains and discharges it Self into Lewis's river a fiew
miles Above the narrows. the bottoms of this Creek is narrow with Some
timber principally Cotton wood & Willow. the under brush Such as
mentioned in the N. E. Creek. The hills are high and abrupt. the lands
of the plains is much more furtile than below, less Sand and Covered
with taller grass; very little of the aramatic Shrubs appear in this
part of the plain. we halted and dined at this Creek. after which we
again proceeded N. 45° E. 3 mes. through a high plain to a Small Creek 5
yds. wide, a branch of the Kimooenimm Creek. the hills of this Stream
like those of the Ki moo enimm are high its bottoms narrow and possess
but little timber. the land of a good quallity dark rich loam. we
Continued our rout up this Creek on it's N. Side N. 75° E 7 mes. the
timber increas in quantity the hills continue high. we met with the We
arh koont whome we have usially distinguished by the name of the big
horn Chief from the circumstance of his always wareing a horn of that
animal Suspended by a Cord to his left arm. he is a 1st Chief of a
large band of the Chopunnish Nation. he had ten of his young men with
him. this man Went down Lewis's river by Land as we decended it by
water last fall quite to the Columbia, and I believe was very
instremental in precureing us a hospital and friendly reception among
the nativs. he had now come a Considerable distance to meet us. after
meeting this Cheif we Continued Still up the Creek bottoms N. 75° E. 2 m.
to the place at which the roade leaves the Creek and assends the hill
to the high plains: here we Encamped in a Small grove of Cotton trees
which in some measure broke the violence of the wind. we Came 28 miles
today. it rained, hailed, Snowed & blowed with Great Violence the
greater portion of the day. it was fortunate for us that this Storm was
from the S. W. and of Course on our backs. the air was very cold. we
devided the last of our dried meat at dinner when it was Consumed as
well as the ballance of our Dogs nearly we made but a Scant Supper, and
had not any thing for tomorrow; however We-ark-koomt Consoled us with
the information that there was an Indian Lodge on the river at no great
distance where we might Supply our Selves with provisions tomorrow. our
Guide and the three young Wallah wallah's left us this morning reather
abruptly and we have Seen nothing of them Sence. the S W. Mountains
appear to become lower as they receed to the N, E. This Creek reaches
the mountains. we are much nearer to them than we were last evening.
they are Covered with timber and at this time Snow.
[Lewis, May 4, 1806]
Sunday May 4th 1806.
Collected our horses and set out early; the morning was cold and
disagreeable. we ascended the Lard. hills of the creek and steered N. 60°
E. 4 miles through a high level plain to a ravine which forms the
source of a small creek, thence down this creek N. 75° E. 8 ms. to it's
entrance into Lewis's river 71/2 ms. below the entrance of the
Kooskooske. on the river a little above this creek we arrived at a
lodge of 6 families of which Weark-koomt had spoken. we halted here for
breakfast and with much difficulty purchase 2 lean dogs. the
inhabitants were miserably poor. we obtained a few large cakes of half
cured bread made of a root which resembles the sweet potatoe, with
these we made some scope and took breakfast. the lands through which we
passed today are fertile consisting of a dark rich loam the hills of
the river are high and approach it nearly on both sides. no timber in
the plains. the S. W. Mountains which appear to be about 15 Ms. above
us still continue to become lower they are covered with snow at present
nearly to their bases. Lewis's river appeas to pass through these mots.
near their N. Eastern extremity. these hills terminate in a high level
plain between the Kooskooske and Lewis's river. these plains are in
many places well covered with the Longleafed pine, with some Larch and
balsom fir. the soil is extreemly fertile no dose it appear so thisty
as that of the same apparent texture of the open plains. it produces
great quantities of the quawmash a root of which the natives are
extreemly fond. a great portion of the Chopunnish we are informed are
now distributed in small vilages through this plain collecting the
quawmash and cows; the salmon not yet having arrived to call them to
the river. the hills of the creek which we decended this morning are
high and in most parts rocky and abrupt. one of our pack horses sliped
from one of those hights and fell into the creek with it's load
consisting principally of ammunition but fortunately neith the horse
nor load suffered any material injury. the amunition being secured in
canesters the water did not effect it.--after dinner we continued our
rout up the West side of the river 3 Ms. opposite to 2 lodges the one
containing 3 and the other 2 families of the Chopunnish nation; here we
met with Te-toh, ar sky, the youngest of the two cheifs who accompanied
us last fall the great falls of the Columbia here we also met with our
pilot who decended the river with us as far as the Columbia. these
indians recommended our passing the river at this place and ascending
the Kooskooske on the N. E. side. they said it was nearer and a better
rout to the forkes of that river where the twisted hair resided in
whose charge we had left our horses; thither they promised to conduct
us. we determined to take the advice of the indians and immediately
prepared to pass the river which with the assistance of three indian
canoes we effected in the course of the evening, purchased a little
wood and some bread of cows from the natives and encamped having
traveled 15 Ms. only today. We-ark-koomt whose people resided on the
West side of Lewis's river above left us when we determined to pass the
river and went on to his lodg. the evening was cold and disagreeable,
and the natives crouded about our fire in great numbers insomuch that
we could scarcely cook of keep ourselves warm. at all these lodges of
the Chopunnish I observe an appendage of a small lodg with one fire
which seems to be the retreat of their women in a certain situation.
the men are not permitted to approach this lodge within a certain
distance and if they have any thing to convey to the occupants of this
little hospital they stand at the distance of 50 or 60 paces and throw
it towards them as far as they can and retire.
[Clark, May 4, 1806]
Sunday May 4th 1806
Collected our horses and Set out early; the morning was Cold and
disagreeable. we assended the Larboard Hill of the Creek and Steared N
60° E 4 M. through a high leavil plain to a revine which forms the Source
of a small creek, thence down the Creek N 75° E. 8 Ms. to it's enterance
into Lewis's river 71/2 ms. below the enterance of Koos koos ke. on the
river a little above this Creek we arived at a lodge of 6 families of
which We-ark'-koomt had Spoken. We halted here for brackfast and with
much dificuelty purchased 2 lean dogs. the inhabitents were miserably
pore. we obtained a fiew large cakes of half cured bread made of a root
which resembles the Sweet potatoe, with these we made Some Soope and
took brackfast. the lands through which we passed to day are fertile
consisting of a dark rich loam. the hills of the river are high and
abrupt approaching it nearly on both Sides. no timber in the plains.
the S. W. Mountains which appear to be about 15 Miles from us Still
Continue to become lower, they are Covered with Snow at present nearly
to their bases. Lewis's river appear to pass through those Mountains
near the N Eastern extremity. those hills termonate in a high leavil
plain between the Kooskoske & Lewis's river. these plains are in maney
places well covered with the long leafed pine and Some balsom fir. the
Soil is extreamly fertile. no does it appear So thirsty as that of the
Same apparrant texture of the open plains. it produces great quantities
of the quawmash a root of which the nativs are extreemly fond. a Great
portion of the Chopunnish we are informed are now distributed in Small
villages through this plain Collecting the Cowse a white Meley root
which is very fine in Soup after being dried and pounded; the Salmon
not yet haveing arived to Call them to the river-. The hills of the
Creek which we decended this morning are high and in most parts rocky
and abrupt. one of our pack horses Sliped from one of those hights and
fell into the Creek with it's load Consisting principally of amunition,
but fortunately neither the horse nor load Suffered any Matereal
injury. the ammunition being Secured in Canesters the water did not
effect it.
after dinner we Continued our rout up the West Side of the river 3 ms.
opposit 2 Lodges the one Containing 3 and the other 2 families of the
Chopunnish Nation; here we met with Te-toh-ar-sky the oldest of the two
Chiefs who accompanied us last fall to the Great falls of the Columbia.
here we also met with our old pilot who decended the river with us as
low as the Columbia these indians recommended our passing the river at
this place and going up on the N E Side of the Kooskoske. they Sayed it
was nearer and a better rout to the forks of that river where the
twisted hair resided in whose charge we had left our horses; thither
they promised to Conduct us. we determined to take the advise of the
indians and imediately prepared to pass the river which with the
assistance of three indian Canoes we effected in the Course of the
evening, purchased a little Wood, Some Cows bread and encamped, haveing
traveled 15 miles to day only. We ark koomt whose people reside on the
West Side of Lewis's river above left us when we deturmined to pass the
river. before he left us he expressed his concern that his people would
be deprived of the pleasure of Seeing us at the forks at which place
they had assimbled to Shew us Sivilities &c. I gave him a Small piece
of tobacco and he went off Satisfied. the evening was Cold and
disagreeable, and the nativs Crouded about our fire in great numbers in
so much that we Could Scercely Cook or keep ourselves worm. at all
those Lodges of the Chopunnish I observe an appendage of a Small lodge
with one fire, which Seames to be the retreat of their women in a
certain Situation. the men are not permited to approach this Lodge
within a certain distance, and if they have any thing to Convey to the
Occupents of this little hospital they Stand at the distance of 50 or
60 paces and throw it towards them as far as they Can and retire.
[Lewis, May 5, 1806]
Monday May 5th 1806.
Collected our horses and set out at 7 A.M. at 41/2 miles we arrived at
the entrance of the Kooskooske, up the N. Eastern side of which we
continued our march 12 ms. to a large lodge of 10 families having
passed two other large mat lodges the one at 5 and the other at 8 Ms.
from the mouth of the Kooskooske but not being able to obtain any
provision at either of those lodges continued our march to the third
where we arrived at 1 P.M. & with much difficulty obtained 2 dogs and a
small quanty of root bread and dryed roots. at the second lodge we
passed an indian man gave Capt. C. a very eligant grey mare for which
he requested a phial of eye-water which was accordingly given him.
while we were encamped last fall at the entrance of the Chopunnish
river Capt. C. gave an indian man some volitile linniment to rub his
kee and thye for a pain of which he complained, the fellow soon after
recovered and has never ceased to extol the virtues of our medecines
and the skill of my friend Capt C. as a phisician. this occurrence
added to the benefit which many of them experienced from the eyewater
we gave them about the same time has given them an exalted opinion of
our medicine. my friend Capt. C. is their favorite phisician and has
already received many applications. in our present situation I think it
pardonable to continue this deseption for they will not give us any
provision without compensation in merchandize and our stock is now
reduced to a mere handfull. we take care to give them no article which
can possibly oinjure them. we foud our Chopunnish guide at this lodge
with his family. the indians brought us Capt. Clark's horse from the
oposite side of the river and delivered him to us while here. this
horse had by some accedent seperated from our other horses above and
had agreeably to indian information been in this neighbourhood for some
weeks. while at dinner an indian fellow verry impertinently threw a
poor half starved puppy nearly into my plait by way of derision for our
eating dogs and laughed very heartily at his own impertinence; I was so
provoked at his insolence that I caught the puppy and thew it with
great violence at him and struk him in the breast and face, siezed my
tomahawk and shewed him by signs if he repeated his insolence I would
tommahawk him, the fellow withdrew apparently much mortifyed and I
continued my repast on dog without further molestation. after dinner we
continued our rout 4 miles to the entrance of Colter's Creek about 1/2
a mile above the rapid where we sunk the 1st canoe as we decended the
river last fall. we encamped on the lower side of this creek at a
little distance from two lodges of the Chopunnish nation having
traveled 201/2 ms. today. one of these lodges contained eight families,
the other was much the largest we have yet seen. it is 156 feet long
and about 15 wide built of mats and straw. in the form of the roof of a
house having a number of small doors on each side, is closed at the
ends and without divisions in the intermediate space this lodge
contained at least 30 families. their fires are kindled in a row in the
center of the house and about 10 feet assunder.
all the lodges of these people are formed in this manner. we arrived
here extreemly hungry and much fatiegued, but no articles of
merchandize in our possession would induce them to let us have any
article of provision except a small quantity of bread of cows and some
of those roots dryed. we had several applications to assist their sick
which we refused unless they would let us have some dogs or horses to
eat. a man whose wife had an absess formed on the small of her back
promised a horse in the morning provided we would administer to her
accordingly Capt. C. opened the absess introduced a tent and dressed it
with basilicon; I prepared some dozes of the flour of sulpher and creem
of tarter which were given with directions to be taken on each morning.
a little girl and sundry other patients were offered for cure but we
posponed our operations untill morning; they produced us several dogs
but they were so poor that they were unfit for use. This is the
residence of one of 4 principal Cheifs of the nation whom they call
Neesh-ne,-park-ke-ook or the cut nose from the circumstance of his nose
being cut by the snake indians with a launce in battle. to this man we
gave a medal of the small size with the likeness of the President. he
may be a great cheif but his countenance has but little inteligence and
his influence among his people seems but inconsiderable. a number of
indians beside the inhabitants of these lodges geathered about us this
evening and encamped in the timbered bottom on the creek near us. we
met with a snake indian man at this place through whome we spoke at
some length to the natives this evening with rispect to the objects
which had induced us to visit their country. this address was induced
at this moment by the suggestions of an old man who observed to the
natives that he thought we were bad men and had come most probably in
order to kill them. this impression if really entertained I beleive we
effaced; they appeared well satisfyed with what we said to them, and
being hungry and tired we retired to rest at 11 oClock.--We-ark-koomt
rejoined us this evening. this man has been of infinite service to us
on several former occasions and through him we now offered our address
to the natives.
[Clark, May 5, 1806]
Monday May 5th 1806
Collected our horses and Set out at 7 A M. at 41/2 ms. we arived at the
enterance of Kooskooske, up the N E. Side of which we continued our
March 12 Miles to a large lodge of 10 families haveing passed two other
large mat lodges the one at 5 and the other at 8 Miles from the Mouth
of the Kooskooske, but not being able to obtain provisions at either of
those Lodges continued our March to the 3rd where we arived at 1 P.M.
and with much dificuelty obtained 2 dogs and a Small quantity of bread
and dryed roots. at the Second Lodge of Eight families Capt L. & my
self both entered Smoked with a man who appeared to be a principal man.
as we were about to leave his lodge and proceed on our journey he
brought foward a very eligant Gray mare and gave her to me, requesting
Some eye water. I gave him a phial of Eye water a handkerchief and some
Small articles of which he appeared much pleased-. While we were
encamped last fall at the enterance of Chopunnish river, I gave an
Indian man some volitile leniment to rub his knee and thye for a pain
of which he Complained. the fellow Soon after recovered and have never
Seased to extol the virtue of our medicines. near the enterance of the
Kooskooske, as we decended last fall I met with a man, who Could not
walk with a tumure on his thye. this had been very bad and recovering
fast. I gave this man a jentle pirge cleaned & dressed his Sore and
left him Some Casteel Soap to wash the Sore which Soon got well. this
man also assigned the restoration of his leg to me. those two cures has
raised my reputation and given those nativs an exolted oppinion of my
Skill as a phician. I have already received maney applications. in our
present Situation I think it pardonable to continue this deception for
they will not give us any provisions without Compensation in
merchendize, and our Stock is now reduced to a mear handfull. we take
Care to give them no article which Can possibly injure them. and in
maney Cases can administer & give Such Medicine & Sergical aid as will
effectually restore in Simple Cases &c. We found our Chopunnish Guide
with his family. the Indians brought my horse which was left at the
place we made Canoes, from the opposit Side and delivered him to me
while here. this horse had by Some accident Seperated from our other
horses above, and agreeably to indian information had been in this
neighbourhood Some weeks. while at dinner an indian fellow very
impertinently threw a half Starved puppy nearly into the plate of Capt.
Lewis by way of derision for our eating dogs and laughed very heartily
at his own impertinence; Capt L.--was So provoked at the insolence that
he cought the puppy and threw it with great violence at him and Struck
him in the breast and face, Seazed his tomahawk, and Shewed him by Sign
that if he repeeted his insolence that he would tomahawk him, the
fellow withdrew apparently much mortified and we continued our Dinner
without further Molestation. after dinner we continued our rout 4 miles
to the enterance of Colter's Creek about 1/2 a mile above the rapid
where we Sunk the 1st Canoe as we decended the river last fall. We
encamped on the lower Side of this Creek a little distance from two
Lodges of the Chopunnish nation haveing traviled 201/2 miles to day one
of those Lodges Contained 8 families, the other was much the largest we
have yet seen. it is 156 feet long and about 15 feet wide built of mats
and Straw, in the form of the roof of a house haveing a number of Small
dores on each Side, is closed at the ends and without divisions in the
intermediate Space. this lodge at least 30 families. their fires are
kindled in a row in the Center of the Lodge and about 10 feet assunder.
all the Lodges of these people are formed in this manner. we arrived
here extreemly hungary and much fatigued, but no articles of
merchindize in our possession would induce them to let us have any
article of Provisions except a Small quantity of bread of Cows and some
of those roots dryed. We had Several applications to assist their Sick
which we refused unless they would let us have Some dogs or horses to
eat. a man whose wife had an absess formed on the Small of her back
promised a horse in the morning provided we would administer to her, I
examined the absess and found it was too far advanced to be cured. I
told them her case was desperate. agreeably to thir request I opened
the absess. I then introduced a tent and dressed it with bisilican; and
prepared Some dozes of the flour of Sulpher and Creem of tarter which
were given with directions to be taken on each morning. a little girl
and Sundery other patients were brought to me for Cure but we posponed
our opperations untill the morning; they produced us Several dogs but
they were So pore that they were unfit to eat. This is the residence of
one of four principal Cheafs of the nation whome they call
Neesh-ne-park-ke-ook or the Cut nose from the circumstance of his nose
being Cut by the Snake Indians with a launce in battle. to this man we
gave a Medal of the Small Size with a likeness of the President. he may
be a great Chief but his Countinance has but little inteligence and his
influence among his people appears very inconsiderable. a number of
Indians besides the inhabitents of these Lodges gathered about us this
evening and encamped in the timbered bottom on the Creek near us. We
met with a Snake indian man at this place through whome we Spoke at
Some length to the nativs this evening with respect to the object which
had enduced us to visit their Country. this address was induced at this
moment by the Suggestions of an old man who observed to the nativs that
he thought we were bad men and had Come most probably in order to kill
them.--this impression if really entertained I believe we effected;
they appeared well Satisfied with what we Said to them, and being
hungary and tired we retired to rest at 11 oClock.--We-ark-koomt
rejoined us this evening. this man has been of infinate Service to us
on Several former occasions and through him we now offered our address
to the nativs-.
[Lewis, May 6, 1806]
Tuesday May 6th 1806.
This morning the husband of the sick woman was as good as his word, he
produced us a young horse in tolerable order which we immediately
killed and butchered. the inhabitants seemed more accomodating this
morning; they sold us some bread. we received a second horse for
medecine and prescription for a little girl with the rheumatism. Capt.
C. dressed the woman again this morning who declared that she had
rested better last night than she had since she had been sick. sore
eyes is an universal complaint with all the natives we have seen on the
west side of the Rocky mountains. Capt. C. was busily engaged for
several hours this morning in administering eye-water to a croud of
applicants. we once more obtained a plentifull meal, much to the
comfort of all the party. I exchanged horses with We-ark'-koomt and
gave him a small flag with which he was much gratifyed. the sorrel I
obtained is an eligant strong active well broke horse perfictly
calculated for my purposes. at this place we met with three men of a
nation called the Skeets-so-mish who reside at the falls of a large
river disharging itself into the Columbia on it's East side to the
North of the entrance of Clark's river. this river they informed us
headed in a large lake in the mountains and that the falls below which
they resided was at no great distance from the lake. these people are
the same in their dress and appearance with the Chopunnish, tho their
language is intirely different a circumstance which I did not learn
untill we were about to set out and it was then too late to take a
vocabulary. The river here called Clark's river is that which we have
heretofore called the Flathead river, I have thus named it in honour of
my worthy friend and fellow traveller Capt. Clark. for this stream we
know no indian name and no whiteman but ourselves was ever on it's
principal branches. the river which Fidler calls the great lake river
may possibly be a branch of it but if so it is but a very
inconsiderable branch and may as probably empty itself into the
Skeetssomish as into that river. the stream which I have heretofore
called Clark's river has it's three principal sources in mountains
Hood, Jefferson & the Northern side of the S. W. Mountains and is of
course a short river. this river I shall in future call the
To-wannahiooks river it being the name by which it is called by the
Eneshur nation. The Kooskooske river may be safely navigated at present
all the rocks of the shoals and rapids are perfectly covered; the
current is strong, the water clear and cold. this river is rising
fast.The timber of this river which consists principally of the long
leafed pine commences about 2 miles below our present camp on Colter's
Creek. it was two oclock this evening before we could collect our
horses. at 3 P.M. we set out accompanyed by the brother of the twisted
hair and We arkkoomt. I directed the horse which we had obtained for
the purpose of eating to be led as it was yet unbroke, in performing
this duty a quarrel ensued between Drewyer and Colter. we continued our
march this evening along the river 9 miles to a lodge of 6 families,
built of sticks mats & dryed hay in the same form of those heretofore
discribed. we passed a lodge of 3 families at 4 ms. on the road. no
provision of any discription was to be obtained of these people. a
little after dark our young horse broke the rope by which he was
confined and made his escape much to the chagrine of all who
recollected the keenness of their appetites last evening. the brother
of the twisted hair and Wearkkoomt with 10 or 12 others encamped with
us this evening.-
the natives have a considerable salmon fishery up Colter's Creek. this
stream extends itself to the pirs of the rocky mountain and in much the
greater part of it's course passes through a well timbered pine country
it is 25 yds. wide and discharges a large body of water. the banks low
and bed formed of pebbles.--had a small shower of rain this evening.
[Clark, May 6, 1806]
Tuesday May 6th 1806
This morning the Susband of the Sick woman was as good as his word. he
produced us a young horse in tolerable order which we imedeately had
killed and butchered. the inhabitents Seemed more accommodating this
morning. they Sold us Some bread. we received a Second horse for
Medecine & procription to a little girl with the rhumitism whome I had
bathed in worm water, and anointed her a little with balsom Capivia. I
dressed the woman again this morning who declared that She had rested
better last night than She had Since She had been sick. Sore Eyes is an
universal Complaint among all the nations which we have Seen on the
West Side of the rocky Mountains. I was busily imployed for several
hours this morning in administering eye water to a Croud of applicants.
we once more obtained a plentiful meal, much to the Comfort of all the
party. Capt Lewis exchanged horses with We ark koomt and gave him a
small flag with which he was much pleased and gratifyed. the Sorrel
which Cap L. obtained is a Strong active well broke horse-. At this
place we met with three men of a nation Called the Skeetsso-mish who
reside at the falls of a Small river dischargeing itself into the
Columbia on its East Side to the South of the enterance of Clarks
river. this river they informed us headed in a large lake in the
mountains and that the falls below which they reside was at no great
distance from the lake. these people are the Same in their dress and
appearance with the Chopunnish, tho their language is entirely
different. one of them gave me his whip which was a twisted Stick 18
Ins. in length at one end a pice of raw hide Split So as to form two
Strings about 20 inches in length as a lash, to the other end a String
passed through a hole and fastened at each end for a loope to Slip over
the wrist. I gave in return for this whip a fathom of narrow binding.
The River here Calld. Clarks river is that which we have heretofore
Called Flathead river. Capt. Lewis has thought proper to Call this
after myself for this Stream we know no Indhan name and no white man
but our Selves was ever on this river. The river which Fiddler call's
the great Lake river may possiably be a branch of it, but if So it is
but a very inconsiderable branch, and may as probably empty itself into
the Columbia above as into Clarks river. the Stream which the party has
heretofore Called Clarks river imedeately above the great falls, has
it's three principal branches in Mountains Jefferson, Hood and the
Northern Side of the S. W. Mountains and is of course a Short river.
this river is Called by the Skillutes & Eneshure Nations Towannahhiooks
which is also the name they Call those bands of Snake indians who Come
on this river every Spring to Catch the Salmon-. The Kooskooske river
may be Safely navigated at present all the rocks of the Sholes and
rapids are perfectlly Covered; the Current is Strong, the water Clear
and Cold. this river is riseing fast-. The timber of this river which
consists principally of the long leafed pine which commences about 2
miles below our present encampment on Colters Creek. it was 2 P M. this
evening before we could collect our horses. at 3 P M. we Set out
accompanied by the brother of the twisted hair and We-ark-koomt. we
derected the horse which I had obtained for the purpose of eateing to
be led as it was unbroke, in performing this duty a quarrel ensued
between Drewyer and Colter-. We Continued our march along the river on
its North Side 9 miles to a lodge of 6 families built of Sticks mats
and dryed Hay. of the Same form of those heretofore discribed. we
passed a Lodge of 3 families at 4 ms. on the river, no provisions of
any discription was to be obtained of these people. a little after dark
our young horse broke the rope by which he was Confined and made his
escape much to the chagrine of all who recollected the keenness of
their appetites last evening. the brother of the twisted hair &
wearkkoomt with 10 others encamped with us this evening
The nativs have a Considerable Salmon fishery up Colters Creek. this
Stream extends itself to the Spurs of the Rocky Mountain and in much
the greater part of its Course passes through a well timbered pine
Country. it is 25 yds. wide and discharges a large body of water. the
banks low and bead formed of pebbles-. had a Small Shower of rain this
evening. The Chopunnish about the Mouth of the Kooskooske bury their
dead on Stoney hill Sides generally, and as I was informed by an Indian
who made Signs that they made a hole in the Grown by takeing away the
Stones and earth where they wished to deposit the dead body after which
they laid the body which was previously raped in a robe and Secured
with Cords. over the body they placed Stones So as to form a Sort of
arch on the top of which they put Stones and earth So as to Secure the
body from the wolves and birds &c. they Sometimes inclose the grave
with a kind of Sepulcher like the roof of a house formed of the canoes
of the disceased. they also Sacrifice the favorite horses of the
disceased. the bones of many of which we See on and about the graves.
[Lewis, May 7, 1806]
Wednesday May 7th 1806.
This morning we collected our horses and set out early accompanyed by
the brother of the twisted hair as a guide; Wearkkoomt and his party
left us. we proceeded up the river 4 miles to a lodge of 6 families
just below the entrance of a small creek, here our guide recommended
our passing the river. he informed us that the road was better on the
South side and that game was more abundant also on that side near the
entrance of the Chopunnish river. we determined to pursue the rout
recommended by the guide and accordingly unloaded our horses and
prepared to pass the river which we effected by means of one canoe in
the course of 4 hours. a man of this lodge produced us two canisters of
powder which he informed us he had found by means of his dog where they
had been buried in a bottom near the river some miles above, they were
the same which we had buryed as we decended the river last fall. as he
had kept them safe and had honesty enough to return them to us we gave
him a fire steel by way of compensation. during our detention at the
river we took dinner, after which or at 3 P.M. we renewed our march
along the river about 2 ms. over a difficult stony road, when we left
the river and asscended the hills to the wright which are here
mountains high. the face of the country when you have once ascended the
river hills is perfectly level and partially covered with the
longleafed pine. the soil is a dark rich loam thickly covered with
grass and herbatious plants which afford a delightfull pasture for
horses. in short it is a beautifull fertile and picteresque country.
Neeshneparkeeook overtook us and after riding with us a few miles
turned off to the wright to visit some lodges of his people who he
informed me were geathering roots in the plain at a little distance
from the road. our guide conducted us through the plain and down a
steep and lengthey hill to a creek which we called Musquetoe Creek in
consequence of being infested with swarms of those insects on our
arrival at it. this is but an inconsiderable stream about 6 yds. wide
heads in the plains at a small distance and discharges itself into the
Kooskooke 9 miles by water below the entrance of the Chopunnish river.
we struck this creek at the distance of 5 ms. from the point at which
we left the river our cours being a little to the S. of East. ascending
the creek one mile on the S. E. side we arrived at an indian incampment
of six lodges which appeared to have been recently evacuated. here we
remained all night having traveled 12 miles only. the timbered country
on this side of the river may be said to commence near this creek, and
on the other side of the river at a little distance from it the timber
reaches as low as Colter's Creek. the earth in many parts of these
plains is thrown up in little mounds by some animal whose habits are
similar to the Sallemander, like that animal it is also invisible;
notwithstanding I have observed the work of this animal thoughout the
whole course of my long tract from St. Louis to the Pacific ocean I
have never obtained a view of this animal. the Shoshone man of whom I
have before made mention evertook us this evening with Neeshneparkeeook
and remained with us this evening.--we suped this evening as we had
dined on horse-beef. we saw several deer this evening and a great
number of the tracks of these animals we determined to remain here
untill noon tomorrow in order to obtain some venison and accordingly
gave orders to the hunters to turn out early in the morning.--he Spurs
of the rocky Mountains which were in view from the high plain today
were perfectly covered with snow. the Indians inform us that the snow
is yet so deep on the mountains that we shall not be able to pass them
untill the next full moon or about the first of June; others set the
time at still a more distant period. this unwelcom inteligence to men
confined to a diet of horsebeef and roots, and who are as anxious as we
are to return to the fat plains of the Missouri and thence to our
native homes. The Chopunnish bury their dead in Sepulchres formed of
boards like the roofs of houses. the corps is rolled in skins and laid
on boards above the surface of the earth. they are laid in several teer
one over another being seperated by a board only above and below from
other corps. I did observe some instances where the body was laid in an
indifferent woden box which was placed among other carcased rolled in
skin in the order just mentioned. they sacrifice horses canoes and
every other speceis of property to their ded. the bones of many horses
are seen laying about those sepulchres. this evening was cold as usual.
[Clark, May 7, 1806]
Wednesday May 7th 1806
This morning we collected our horses and Set out early accompanied by
the brother of the twisted hair as a guide; Wearkkoomt and his party
left us. we proceeded up the river 4 miles to a lodge of 6 families
just below the enterance of a Small Creek, here our guide recommended
our passing the river, he informed us that the road was better on the
South Side, and that game was more abundant also on that Side near the
enterance of Chopunnish river. we deturmined to pursue the rout
recommended by the guide, and accordingly unloaded our horses and
prepared to pass the river which we effected by means of one Canoe in
the Course of 4 hours. a man of this lodge produced us two Canisters of
Powder which he informed us he had found by means of his dog where they
had been berried in the bottom near the river a fiew miles above. they
were the Same which we had burried as we decended the river last fall.
as he had kept them Safe and had honisty enough to return them to us,
we gave him a fire Steel by way of Compensation. dureing our detention
at the river we took dinner. after which we renewed our march along the
S. E. Side of the river about 2 miles over a dificuelt Stoney road,
when we left the river and assended the hills to the right which are
here mountains high. the face of the Country when you have once
assended the river hills, is perfectly level and partially Covered with
the long leafed pine. the Soil is a dark rich loam, thickly Covered
with grass and herbatious plants which afford a delightfull pasture for
horses. in Short it is a butifull fertile picteresque Country.
Neeshneparkeeook over took us and after rideing with us a fiew miles
turned off to the right to visit some lodges of his people who he
informed us were gathering roots in the plains at a little distance
from the road. our guide Conducted us through the plain and down a
Steep and lengthy hill to a Creek which we Call Musquetoe Creek in
consequence of being infested with Sworms of those insects on our
arival at it. this is but an inconsiderable Stream about 6 yards wide
heads in the plains at a Short distance and discharges itself into the
Kooskooske 9 ms. by water below the forks. we Struck this Creek at the
distance of 5 miles from the point at which we left the river our
course being a little to the S. of East. we proceeded up the Creek one
Mile and on the S. E. Side we arived at an old Indian incampment of Six
Lodges which appeared to have been recently evacuated. here we remained
all night haveing traveled 12 ms. only. the timbered Country on this
Side of the river may be Said to Commence a Short distance below this
Creek, and on the other Side of the river at a little distance from it
the timber reaches as low as Colter's Creek. the earth in maney parts
of those plains is thown up in little mounds by Some animal whose
habits are Similar to the Sallemander, like that animal it is also
invisible; notwithstanding I have observed the work of this animal
throughout the whole course of my trail from St. Louis to the Pacific
Ocian, I have never obtained a View of this animal. The Shoshone man of
whome I have before mentioned over took us this evening with Neesh
neparkeeook or Cut nose and remained with us this evening. we Suped
this evening as we had done on horse beef. we Saw Several deer this
evening, and a great number of the tracks of these animals we
deturmined to remain here untill noon tomorrow in order to obtain some
venison, and accordingly gave orders to the hunters to turn out early
in the morning. The Spurs of the rocky mountains which were in view
from the high plain to day were perfectly Covered with Snow. The
Indians inform us that the Snow is yet So deep on the Mountains that we
Shall not be able to pass them untill after the next full moon or about
the first of June. others Set the time at a more distant period. this
unwelcom intiligence to men confined to a diet of horsebeef and roots,
and who are as anxious as we are to return to the fat plains of the
Missouri, and thence to our native homes. The Chopunnish bury their
dead in different ways as I have obseved, besides that already
discribed they scaffold Some and deposit others in Sepulchers, those
are rearly to be Seen in this upper part of the Columbian Waters. the
one already discribed is the most Common. they all Sacrifice horses,
Canoes and every Species of property to the dead. the bones of maney
horses are Seen lyeing about those repositaries of the dead &c.-.
I observed in all the Lodges which we have passed Since we Crossed
Lewis's river decoys, or Stocking heads as they are Sometimes called.
these decoys are for the deer and is formed of the Skin of the head and
upper portion of the neck of that animale extended in the nateral Shape
by means of a fiew little Sticks placed within. the hunter when he Sees
a deer conseals himself and with his hand givs to the decoy the action
of a deer at feed, and this induces the deer within arrowshot; in this
mode the Indians near the woody country hunt on foot in Such places
where they cannot pursue the deer with horses which is their favourite
method when the grounds will permit-.-. The orniments worn by the
Chopunnish are, in their nose a Single Shell of wampom, the pirl &
beeds are Suspended from the ears. beads are worn arround their wrists,
neck and over their Sholders crosswise in the form of a double Sash-.
the hair of the men is Cewed in two rolls which hang on each side in
front of the body. Collars of bears Claws are also Common; but the
article of dress on which they appear to bestow most pains and
orniments is a kind of collar or brestplate; this is most Commonly a
Strip of otter skins of about Six inches Wide taken out of the Center
of the Skin it's whole length including the head. this is dressed with
the hair on, this is tied around the neck & hangs in front of the body
the tail frequently reaching below their knees; on this Skin in front
is attatched pieces of pirl, beeds, wampom, pices of red Cloth and in
Short whatever they conceive most valuable or ornamental-.-.
[Lewis, May 8, 1806]
Thursday May 8th 1806.
Most of the hunters turned out by light this morning a few others
remained without our permission or knoledge untill late in the morning,
we chid them severely for their indolence and inattention to the order
of last evening. about 8 OCk. Sheilds returned with a small deer on
which we breakfasted. by 11 A.M. all our hunters returned, Drewyer and
Cruzatte brought each a deer, Collins wounded another which my dog
caught at a little distance from the camp. our stock of provision now
consisted of 4 deer and the remnant of the horse which we killed at
Colter's Creek. Sheilds killed a duck of an uncommon kind. the head
beak and wing of which I preserved. the beak is remarkably wide and
obtusely pointed, on it's edges it is furnished with a sceries of teeth
very long and fine not unlike the teeth of a comb. the belley is of a
brick red, the lower part of the neck white, the upper part or but of
the wing is a sky blue, underneath which a narrow stripe of white
succeeds marking the wing transversly, the large feathers are of a dark
colour. tail short and pointed and consists of 12 dark brown feathers.
the back is black and sides white; legs yellow and feet formed like the
Duckinmallard which it also resembles in size and form. the eye is
moderately large, puple black and iris of an orrange colour. the
colours and appearance of the female is precisely that of the
duckinmallard only, reather smaller. we are informed that the natives
in this quarter were much distressed for food in the course of the last
winter; they were compelled to collect the moss which grows on the pine
which they boiled and eat; near this camp I observed many pine trees
which appear to have been cut down about that season which they inform
us was done in order to collect the seed of the longleafed pine which
in those moments of distress also furnishes an article of food; the
seed of this speceis of pine is about the size and much the shape of
the seed of the large sunflower; they are nutricious and not unpleasent
when roasted or boiled, during this month the natives also peal this
pine and eat the succulent or inner bark. in the creek near our
encampment I observed a falling trap constructed on the same plan with
those frequent seen in the atlantic states for catching the fish
decending the stream Capt. C. took several small trout from this trap.
Neesh-ne-park-kee-ook and several other indians joined us this morning.
we gave this cheif and the indians with us some venison, horsebeef, the
entrels of the four deer, and four fawns which were taken from two of
the does that were killed, they eat none of their food raw, tho the
entrals had but little preperation and the fawns were boiled and
consumed hair hide and entrals. these people sometimes eat the flesh of
the horse tho they will in most instances suffer extreem hunger before
they will kill their horses for that purpose, this seems reather to
proceede from an attatchment to this animal, than a dislike to it's
flesh for I observe many of them eat very heartily of the horsebeef
which we give them. The Shoshone man was displeased because we did not
give him as much venison as he could eat and in consequence refused to
interpret, we took no further notice of him and in the course of a few
hours he became very officious and seemed anxious to reinstate himself
in our good opinons. the relation of the twisted hair and
Neeshneparkkeook gave us a sketch of the principall watercourses West
of the Rocky Mountains a copy of which I preserved; they make the main
Southwardly branch of Lewis's river much more extensive than the other,
and place many villages of the Shoshonees on it's western side. at half
after 3 P.M. we departed; for the lodge of the Twisted hair accompanyed
by the Cheif and sundry other indians. the relation of the twisted hair
left us. the road led us up a steep and high hill to a high and level
plain mostly untimbered, through which we passed parrallel with the
river about 4 miles when we met the Twisted hair and a party of six
men. to this Cheif we had confided the care of our horses and a part of
our saddles when we decended the river last fall. the Twisted hair
received us very coolly an occurrence as unexpected as it was
unaccountable to us. he shortly began to speak with a loud voice and in
a angry manner, when he had ceased to speak he was answered by the
Cutnose Cheif or Neeshneparkkeook; we readily discovered that a violet
quarrel had taken place between these Cheifs but at that instant knew
not the cause; we afterwards learnt that it was on the subject of our
horses. this contreversy between the cheifs detained us about 20
minutes; in order to put an end to this dispute as well as to releive
our horses from the embarasment of their loads, we informed the Cheifs
that we should continue our march to the first water and encamp
accordingly we moved on and the Indians all followed. about two miles
on the road we arrived at a little branch which run to the wright. here
we encamped for the evening having traveled 6 miles today. the two
cheifs with their little bands formed seperate camps at a short
distance from ours, they all appeared to be in an ill humour. we had
been informed some days since that the natives had discovered the
deposit of our saddles and taken them away and that our horses were
much scattered. we were very anxious to learn the particulars or truth
of these reports from the twisted hair, as it must in some measure
govern us in the establishment of our perminent camp which in
consequence of our detention by the snow of the mountains has become
necessary. to obtain our horses and saddles as quickly as possible is
our wish, and we are somewhat apprehensive that this difference which
has taken place between these Chiefs may millitate against our
operations in this rispect. we were therefore desireous to bring about
a good understanding between them as soon as possible. The Shoshone boy
refused to speak, he aledged it was a quarrel between two Cheifs and
that he had no business with it; it was in vain that we urged that his
interpreting what we said on this subject was not taking the responsibil
ity of the inteference on himself, he remained obstenately silent.
about an hour after we had encamped Drewyer returned from hunting we
sent him to the Twisted hair to make some enquiries relative to our
horses and saddles and to ask him to come and smoke with us. The
Twisted hair accepted the invitation and came to our fire. The twisted
hair informed us that accordingly to the promis he had made us when he
seperated from us at the falls of the Columbia he collected our horses
on his return and took charge of them, that about this time the Cutnose
or Neeshneparkkeook and Tun-nach'-emoo-tools or the broken arm returned
from a war excurtion against the Shoshonees on the South branch of
Lewis's river which had caused their absence when we were in this
neighbourhood. that these men became dissatisfyed with him in
consequence of our having confided the horses to his care and that they
were eternally quarreling with him insomuch that he thought it best as
he was an old man to relinquish any further attention to the horses,
that they had consequently become scattered; that most of the horses
were near this place, a part were in the forks between the Chopunnish
and Kooskooske rivers and three or four others were at the lodge of the
broken Arm about half a days march higher up the river. he informed us
with rispect to our saddles that on the rise of the water this spring
the earth had fallen from the door of the cash and exposed the saddles,
he being informed of their situation had taken them up and placed them
in another cash where they were at this time; he said it was probable
that a part of them had fallen into the water but of this he was not
certain. The Twisted hair said if we would spend the day tomorrow at
his lodge which was a few miles only from hence and on the road leading
to the Broken arm's lodge, he would collect such of our horses as were
near this place and our saddles, that he would also send some young men
over the Kooskooske to collect those in the forks and bring them to the
lodge of the broken Arm to met us. he advised us to go to the lodge of
the broken Arm as he said he was a Cheif of great emenence among them,
and promised to accompany us thither if we wished him. we told him that
we should take his advice in every particular, that we had confided the
horses to his care and expected that he would collect them and deliver
them to us which when he performed we should pay him the two guns and
amunition we had promised him for that service. he seemed much pleased
and promised his utmost exertions. we sent Drewyer to the Cutnose who
also came to our fire and smoked with ourselves and the Twisted hair we
took occasion in the course of the evening to express our regret that
there should be a misunderstanding between these Cheifs; the Cutnose
told us in the presents of the Twisted hair that he the twisted hair
was a bad old man that he woar two faces, that in stead of taking care
of our horses as he had promised us that he had suffered his young men
to ride them hunting and had injured them very much; that this was the
cause why himself and the Broken arm had forbid his using them. the
other made no reply. we informed the Cutnose of our intention of
spending tomorrow at the Twisted hair's lodge in order to collect our
horses and saddles and that we should proceede the next day to the
Broken Arm's lodge, he appeared well satisfyed with this arrangement
and said he would continue with us, and would give us any assistance in
his power; he said he knew the broken arm expected us at his lodge and
that he had two bad horses for us, metaphorically speaking a present of
two good horses. he said the broken arm had learnt our want of
provision and had sent four of his young men with a supply to meet us
but that they had taken a different road and had missed us.--about 10
P.M. our guests left us and we layed down to rest.
[Clark, May 8, 1806]
Thursday 8th of May 1806.
This morning our hunters was out by the time it was light. about 8
oClock Shields brought in a Small deer, on which we brackfast by 11
A.M. all our hunters returned Drewyer & P. Crusat brought in a Deer
each & Collins wounded one which our Dog Caught near our Camp. Total of
our Stock of provisions 4 deer & Some horse flesh. on the Small Creek
which passes our Camp, the nativs have laterly encamped and as we are
informed have been much distressed for provisions, they have fallen a
number of Small pine in the vicinity of this Encampment for the Seed
which is in the bur of which they eate. we are informed that they were
Compelled to Collect the moss off the pine boil & eate it in the latter
part of the last Winter. on the Creek near our Camp I observed a kind
of trap which was made with great panes to catch the Small fish which
pass down with the Stream This was a dam formed of Stone So as to
Collect the water in a narrow part not exceeding 3 feet wide from which
place the water Shot with great force and Scattered through Some Small
willows Closely connected and fastened with bark. this mat of willow
Switches was about 4 feet wide and 6 long lying in a horozontal
position, fastened at the extremety. the Small fish which fell on those
willows was washed on the Willows where they untill taken off &c. I
cought or took off those willows 9 Small trout from 3 to 7 Inches in
length. Soon after I returned from the fishery an Indian came from a
fishery of a Similar kind a little above with 12 Small fish which he
offered me which I declined axcepting as I found from his Signs that
his house was a Short distance above, and that those fisheries afforded
the principal part of the food for his Children. The Great Chief of the
Bands below who has a cut nose joined us this morning. we gave the
interals with 4 young fauns which was in two of the deer killed to day
to the Indians also some of our deer & horse flesh. the Paunch of the
deer they eate without any preperation further than washing them a
little. the fauns they boiled and eate every part of them even the
Skins with the hair. The Snake Indian was much displeased that he was
not furnished with as much Deer as he could eate. he refused to Speake
to the wife of Shabono, through whome we Could understand the nativs.
we did not indulge him and in the after part of the day he Came too and
Spoke verry well. one of the Indians drew me a Sketch of the river (See
the latter part of this book) in this Sketch he makes the 1st large
Southerly fork of Lewis's river much the longest and on which great
numbers of the Snake Indians reside &c. at ____ P.M. we loaded up and
Set on on the roade leading as we were informed to the lodge of the
twisted hair, the Chief in whoes Care we had left our horses. we were
accompanied by the Cut nose Chief our old Chief who had accompanied us
down the river and Several men. we assended the hills which was Steep
and emencely high to a leavel rich Country thinly timbered with pine.
we had not proceeded more than 4 miles before we met the twisted hair
and Several men meeting of us. we were verry coolly recved by the
twisted hair. he Spoke aloud and was answered by the Cut Nose. we Could
not learn what they Said. but plainly discovered that a
missunderstanding had taken place between them. we made Signs to them
that we Should proceed on to the next water and encamp. accordingly I
set out and they all followed. we had not proceeded far before the road
Crossed a Small handsom Stream on which we encamped. The parties of
those two Chiefs took different positions at Some distance from each
other and all appeared Sulkey. after we had formed our Camp we Sent
Drewyer with a pipe to Smoke with the twisted hair and lern the Cause
of the dispute between him and the Cut nose, and also to invite him to
our fire to Smoke with us. The twisted hair came to our fire to Smoke
we then Sent drewyer to the Cut Noses fire with the Same directions. he
returned and informed us that the Cut nose Said he would join us in a
fiew minits. it appears that the Cause of the quarrel between those two
men is about our horses. and we cannot lern the particulars of this
quarrel which probably originated through jelousy on the part of the
Cut nose who blames the twisted hair for Suffer our horses to be rode,
and want water dureing the Winter &c. twisted hair Says the horses were
taken from him &c. The Cut nose joined us in a Short time We Smoked
with all the party of both Chiefs, and told them that we were Sorry to
find them at varience with each other the cut nose said that the
twisted hair was a bad man and wore two fases, that he had not taken
care of our horses as was expected. that himself an the broken arm had
Caused our horses to be Watered in the winter and had them drove
together, and that if we would proceed on to the village of the great
Chief whome we had left a flag last fall the broken arm he would Send
for our horses, that he had himself three of them. he also informed us
that the great Chief hering of our distressed Situation had Sent his
Son and 4 men to meet us and have us furnished on the way &c. that the
young men had missed us and Could never over take us untill this time.
that the great chief had 2 bad horses for us and expected us to go to
his lodge which was near the river and about half a days march above
&c. The twisted hair told us that he wished to Smoke with us at his
lodge which was on the road leading to the Great Chiefs lodge, and but
a fiew miles a head. if we would delay at his lodge tomorrow he would
go after our Saddles and horses which was near the place we made our
Canoes last fall. we deturmined to Set out early in the morning and
proceed on to the lodge of the twisted hair and Send for our Saddles
and powder which we had left burried mear the forks. and the day after
tomorrow to proceed on to the lodge of the Grand Chief. accordingly we
informed the Indians of our intentions. we all Smoked and conversed
untill about 10 P M. the Indians retired and we lay down. Derected 5
hunters to turn out early in the morning to hunt and meet us at the
twisted hair's lodge.
[Lewis, May 9, 1806]
Friday May 9th 1806.
We sent out several hunters early this morning with instructions to
meet us at the lodge of the Twisted hair. Collecting our horses
detained us untill 9 A.M. when we charged our packhorses and set out.
our rout lay through a level rich country similar to that of yesterday;
at the distance of 6 miles we arrived at the lodge of the twisted hair;
this habitation was built in the usual form with sticks mats and dryed
hay, and contained 2 firs and about 12 persons. even at this small
habitation there was an appendage of the soletary lodge, the retreat of
the tawny damsels when nature causes them to be driven into coventry;
here we halted as had been previously concerted, and one man with 2
horses accompayed the twisted hair to the canoe camp, about 4 ms. in
quest of the saddles. the Twisted hair sent two young men in surch of
our horses agreeably to his promis. The country along the rocky
mountains for several hundred miles in length and about 50 in width is
level extreemly fertile and in many parts covered with a tall and open
growth of the longleafed pine. near the watercouses the hills are steep
and lofty tho are covered with a good soil not remarkably stony and
possess more timber than the level country. the bottom lands on the
watercourses are reather narrow and confined tho fertile & seldom
inundated. this country would form an extensive settlement; the climate
appears quite as mild as that of similar latitude on the Atlantic coast
if not more so and it cannot be otherwise than healthy; it possesses a
fine dry pure air. the grass and many plants are now upwards of knee
high. I have no doubt but this tract of country if cultivated would
produce in great abundance every article essentially necessary to the
comfort and subsistence of civillized man. to it's present inhabitants
nature seems to have dealt with a liberal hand, for she has distributed
a great variety of esculent plants over the face of the country which
furnish them a plentiful) store of provision; these are acquired with
but little toil, and when prepared after the method of the natives
afford not only a nutricious but an agreeable food. among other roots
those called by them the Quawmash and Cows are esteemed the most
agreeable and valuable as they are also the most abundant. the cows is
a knobbed root of an irregularly rounded form not unlike the Gensang in
form and consistence. this root they collect, rub of a thin black rhind
which covers it and pounding it expose it in cakes to the sun. these
cakes ate about an inch and 1/4 thick and 6 by 18 in width, when dryed
they either eat this bread alone without any further preperation, or
boil it and make a thick muselage; the latter is most common and much
the most agreeable. the flavor of this root is not very unlike the
gensang.--this root they collect as early as the snows disappear in the
spring and continue to collect it until) the quawmash supplys it's
place which happens about the latter end of June. the quawmash is also
collected for a few weaks after it first makes it's appearance in the
spring, but when the scape appears it is no longer fit for use untill
the seed are ripe which happens about the time just mentioned, and then
the cows declines. the latter is also frequently dryed in the sun and
pounded afterwards and then used in making soope.--I observed a few
trees of the larch and a few small bushes of the balsam fir near the
lodge of the Twisted hair. at 2 P.M. our hunters joined us Drewyer
killed a deer but lost it in the river. a few pheasants was the produce
of the hunt. we procured a few roots of cows of which we made scope.
late in the evening The Twisted hair and Willard returned; they brought
about half of our saddles, and some powder and lead which had been
buried at that place. my saddle was among the number of those which
were lost. about the same time the young men arrived with 21 of our
horses. the greater part of our horses were in fine order. five of them
appeared to have been so much injured by the indians riding them last
fall that they had not yet recovered and were in low order. three
others had soar backs. we had these horses caught and hubbled. the
situation of our camp was a disagreeable one in an open plain; the wind
blew violently and was cold. at seven P.M. it began to rain and hail,
at 9 it was succeeded by a heavy shower of snow which continued untill
the next morning.--several indians joined us this evening from the
village of the broken arm or Tunnachemootoolt and continued all night.
The man who had imposed himself on us as a relation of the twisted hair
rejoined us this evening we found him an impertinent proud supercilious
fellow and of no kind of rispectability in the nation, we therefore did
not indulge his advances towards a very intimate connection. The
Cutnose lodged with the twisted hair I beleive they have become good
friends again. several indians slept about us.
[Clark, May 9, 1806]
Friday 9th May 1806
The hunters Set out very early agreeable to their derections. we were
detained untill 9 A.M. for our horses which were much Scattered at
which time we Collected our horses and Set out and proceeded on through
a butifull open rich Country for 6 miles to the Camp of the twisted
hair. this Campment is formed of two Lodges built in the usial form of
mats and Straw. the largest and principal Lodge is Calculated for 2
fires only and Contains about ____ persons. the Second lodge is Small &
appears to be intended for the Sick women who always retire to a
Seperate lodge when they have the ____ this Custom is Common to all the
nations on this river as well as among all other Indian nations with
whom I am acquainted. at the distance of 2 miles we passd. a lodge of 2
fires on a fork of the road which leads to the right Situated on a
Small branch which falls into Musquetor Creek. before 2 P M all our
hunters joined us haveing killed only one deer which was lost in the
river and a pheasent. Soon after we halted at the lodge of the twisted
hair he Set out with two boys and Willard with a pack horse down to the
river near the place we made the Canoes for our Saddles and a Cannister
of powder and Some lead buried there, also a part of our horses which
resorted near that place. late in the evening they returned with 21 of
our horse and about half of our Saddles with the powder and ball. The
greater part of the horses were in fine order, tho five of them had
been rode & worsted in Such a manner last fall by the Inds. that they
had not recovered and are in very low order, and 3 with Sore backs. we
had all the recovered horses Cought & hobbled. we precured Some pounded
roots of which a Supe was made thick on which we Suped. the wind blew
hard from the S. W. accompanied with rain untill from 7 oClock untill 9
P.M. when it began to Snow and Continued all night. Several Indians
Came from the village of the Chief with whome we had left a flag and
Continued with us all night. they slept in the house of the twisted
hair and two of them along Side of us.
[Lewis, May 10, 1806]
Saturday May 10th 1806.
This morning the snow continued falling 1/2 after 6 A.M. when it
ceased, the air keen and cold, the snow 8 inches deep on the plain; we
collected our horses and after taking a scant breakfast of roots we set
out for the village of Tunnachemootoolt; our rout lay through an open
plain course S. 35 E. and distance 16 ms. the road was slippery and the
snow clogged to the horses feet, and caused them to trip frequently.
the mud at the sources of the little ravines was deep black and well
supplyed with quawmash. Drewyer turned off to the left of the road in
order to hunt and did not join us this evening. at 4 in the afternoon
we decended the hills to Commearp Creek and arrived at the Village of
Tunnachemootoolt, the cheeif at whos lodge we had left a flag last
fall. this flag was now displayed on a staff placed at no great
distance from the lodge. underneath the flag the Cheif met my friend
Capt. C. who was in front and conducted him about 80 yds. to a place on
the bank of the creek where he requested we should encamp; I came up in
a few minutes and we collected the Cheifs and men of consideration
smoked with them and stated our situation with rispect to provision.
the Cheif spoke to his people and they produced us about 2 bushels of
the Quawmas roots dryed, four cakes of the bread of cows and a dryed
salmon trout. We thanked them for this store of provision but informed
them that our men not being accustomed to live on roots alone we feared
it would make them sick, to obviate which we proposed exchangeing a
good horse in reather low order for a young horse in tolerable order
with a view to kill. the hospitality of the cheif revolted at the aydea
of an exchange, he told us that his young men had a great abundance of
young horses and if we wished to eat them we should by furnished with
as many as we wanted. accordingly they soon produced us two fat young
horses one of which we killed, the other we informed them we would
pospone killing untill we had consumed the one already killed. This is
a much greater act of hospitality than we have witnessed from any
nation or tribe since we have passed the Rocky mountains. in short be
it spoken to their immortal honor it is the only act which deserves the
appellation of hospitallity which we have witnessed in this quarter. we
informed these people that we were hungry and fatiegued at this moment,
that when we had eaten and refreshed ourselves we would inform them who
we were, from whence we had come and the objects of our resurches. a
principal Cheif by name Ho-hast,-ill-pilp arrived with a party of fifty
men mounted on eligant horses. he had come on a visit to us from his
village which is situated about six miles distant near the river. we
invited this man into our circle and smoked with him, his retinue
continued on horseback at a little distance. after we had eaten a few
roots we spoke to them as we had promised; and gave Tinnachemootoolt
and Hohastillpilp each a medal; the former one of the small size with
the likeness of Mr. Jefferson and the latter one of the sewing medals
struck in the presidency of Washington, we explained to them the
desighn and the importance of medals in the estimation of the whites as
well as the red men who had been taught their value. The Cheif had a
large conic lodge of leather erected for our reception and a parsel of
wood collected and laid at the door after which he invited Capt. C. and
myself to make that lodge our home while we remained with him. we had a
fire lighted in this lodge and retired to it accompanyed by the Cheifs
and as many of the considerate men as could croud in a circcle within
it. here after we had taken a repast on some horsebeef we resumed our
council with the indians which together with smoking the pipe occupyed
the ballance of the evening. I was surprised to find on decending the
hills of Commearp Cr. to find that there had been no snow in the
bottoms of that stream. it seems that the snow melted in falling and
decended here in rain while it snowed on the plains. the hills are
about six hundred feet high about one fourth of which distance the snow
had decended and still lay on the sides of the hills. as these people
had been liberal with is with rispect to provision I directed the men
not to croud their lodge surch of food in the manner hunger has
compelled them to do at most lodges we have passed, and which the
Twisted hair had informed me was disgreeable to the natives. but their
previous want of hospitality had induced us to consult their
enclinations but little and suffer our men to obtain provision from
them on the best terms they could. The village of the broken arm as I
have heretofore termed it consists of one house only which is 150 feet
in length built in the usual form of sticks matts and dry grass. it
contains twenty four fires and about double that number of families.
from appearances I presume they could raise 100 fighting men. the noise
of their women pounding roots reminds me of a nail factory. The indians
seem well pleased, and I am confident that they are not more so than
our men who have their somachs once more well filled with horsebeef and
mush of the bread of cows.--the house of coventry is also seen here.-
[Clark, May 10, 1806]
Saturday 10th of May 1806
This morning the Snow continued falling untill 1/2 past 6 A M when it
Seased. the air keen and Cold the Snow 8 inches deep on the plain. we
Collected our horses and after takeing a Scanty brackfast of roots, we
Set out for the Village of the Chief with a flag, and proceeded on
through an open plain. the road was Slipry and the Snow Cloged and
caused the horses to trip very frequently. the mud at heads of the
Streams which we passed was deep and well Supplied with the Car mash.
Drewyer turned off the road to hunt near the river to our lef and did
not join us to day. at 4 P M we arrived at the Village of Tin
nach-e-moo-toolt the Chief whome We had left a flag. this flag was
hoisted on a pole unde the flag the Chief met me and Conducted me to a
Spot near a Small run about 80 paces from his Lodges where he requested
me to halt which I did. Soon after Cap Lewis who was in the rear Came
up and we Smoked with and told this Chief our Situation in respect to
provisions. they brought foward about 2 bushels of quawmash 4 Cakes of
bread made of roots and a dried fish. we informed the Chief that our
Party was not accustomed to eate roots without flesh & proposed to
exchange Some of our oald horses for young ones to eate. they Said that
they would not exchange horses, but would furnish us with Such as we
wished, and produced 2 one of which we killed and informd. them that we
did not wish to kill the other at this time. we gave Medals to the
broken arm or Tin-nach-e-moo tolt and Hoh-halt-ill-pitp two principal
Chiefs of the Chopunnish Natn. and was informed that there was one
other Great Chief (in all 4) who had but one eye. he would be here
tomorrow. a large Lodge of Leather was pitched and Capt. Lewis and my
Self was envited into it. we entered and the Chief and principal men
came into the lodge and formed a Circle a parcel of wood was Collected
and laid at the dore and a fire made in this Conic lodge before we
entered it. the Chief requested that we might make the Lodge our homes
while we remained with him. here after we had taken a repast on roots &
horse beef we resumed our Council with the indians which together with
Smokeing took up the ballance of the evening. I was Supprised to find
decending the hill to Commearp Creek to find that there had been no
snow in the bottoms of that Stream. it seams that the Snow melted in
falling and decended here in rain while it snowed in the plain. the
hills are about Eight hundred feet high about 1/4 of which distance the
Snow had decended and Still lay on the Sides of the hill. as those
people had been liberal I directed the men not to croud their Lodge in
serch of food the manner hunger has Compelled them to do, at most
lodges we have passed, and which the Twisted Hair had informed us was
disagreeable to the nativs. but their previous want of hospitality had
enduced us to consult their enclinations but little and Suffer our men
to obtain provisions from them on the best terms they could.
The Village of the broken Arm consists of one house or Lodge only which
is 150 feet in length built in the usial form of Sticks, Mats and dry
grass. it contains 24 fires and about double that number of families.
from appearance I prosume they could raise 100 fighting men. the noise
of their women pounding the cows roots remind me of a nail factory. The
Indians appear well pleased, and I am Confident that they are not more
so than our men who have their Stomach once more well filled with horse
beef and the bread of cows. Those people has Shewn much greater acts of
hospitallity than we have witnessed from any nation or tribe Since we
have passed the rocky Mountains. in Short be it Spoken to their
immortal honor it is the only act which diserves the appelation of
hospitallity which we have witnessed in this quarter.
[Lewis, May 11, 1806]
Sunday May 11th 1806.
The last evening we were much crouded with the indians in our lodge,
the whole floor of which was covered with their sleeping carcases. we
arrose early and took breakfast. at 8 A.M. a Cheif of great note among
these people arrived from his village or lodge on the S. side of
Lewis's River. this is a stout fellow of good countenance about 40
years of age and has lost the left eye. his name is Yoom-park'-kar-tim.
to this man we gave a medal of the smal kind. those with the likeness
of Mr. Jefferson have all been disposed of except one of the largest
size which we reserve for some great Cheif on the Yellow rock river. we
now pretty fully informed ourselves that Tunnachemootoolt,
Neeshneparkkeeook, Yoomparkkartim and Hohastillpilp were the principal
Cheif of the Chopunnish nation and ranked in the order here mentioned;
as all those cheifs were present in our lodge we thought it a
favourable time to repeat what had been said yesterday and to enter
more minutely into the views of our government with rispect to the
inhabitants of this western part of the continent, their intention of
establishing trading houses for their releif, their wish to restore
peace and harmony among the natives, the strength power and wealth of
our nation &c. to this end we drew a map of the country with a coal on
a mat in their way and by the assistance of the snake boy and our
interpretters were enabled to make ourselves understood by them altho
it had to pass through the French, Minnetare, Shoshone and Chopunnish
languages. the interpretation being tedious it ocupyed nearly half the
day before we had communicated to them what we wished. they appeared
highly pleased. after this council was over we amused ourselves with
shewing them the power of magnetism, the spye glass, compass, watch,
air-gun and sundry other articles equally novel and incomprehensible to
them. they informed us that after we had left the Minnetares last
spring that three of their people had visited that nation and that they
had informed them of us and had told them that we had such things in
our possession but that they could not place confidence in the
information untill they had now witnessed it themselves.--A young man,
son of a conspicuous Cheif among these people who was killed not long
since by the Minnetares of Fort de Prarie, brought and presented us a
very fine mare and colt. he said he had opened his ears to our councils
and would observe them strictly, and that our words had made his heart
glad. he requested that we would accept this mear and colt which he
gave in token of his determination to pursue our advise.--about 3 P.M.
Drewyer arrived with 2 deer which he had killed. he informed us that
the snow still continued to cover the plain. many of the natives apply
to us for medical aid which we gave them cheerfully so far as our skill
and store of medicine would enable us. schrofela, ulsers, rheumatism,
soar eyes, and the loss of the uce of their limbs are the most common
cases among them. the latter case is not very common but we have seen
thee instances of it among the Chopunnish. it is a very extraordinary
complaint. a Cheif of considerable note at this place has been
afflicted with it for three years, he is incapable of moving a single
limb but lies like a corps in whatever position he is placed, yet he
eats heartily, digests his food perfectly, injoys his understanding,
his pulse are good, and has retained his flesh almost perfectly, in
short were it not that he appears a little pale from having lain so
long in the shade he might well be taken for a man in good health. I
suspect that their confinement to a diet of roots may give rise to all
those disorders except the rheumatism & soar eyes, and to the latter of
these, the state of debility incident to a vegetable diet may
measureably contribute.--The Chopunnish notwithstanding they live in
the crouded manner before mentioned are much more clenly in their
persons and habitations than any nation we have seen since we left the
Ottoes on the river Platte.--The Twisted hair brought us six of our
horses.
[Clark, May 11, 1806]
Sunday 11th May 1806
Some little rain last night. we were Crouded in the Lodge with Indians
who continued all night and this morning Great numbers were around us.
The One Eyed Chief Yoom-park-kar-tim arived and we gave him a medal of
the Small Size and Spoke to the Indians through a Snake boy Shabono and
his wife. we informed them who we were, where we Came from & our
intentions towards them, which pleased them very much. a young man Son
to the great Chief who was killed not long Sence by the Indians from
the N. E. brought an elegant mare and Coalt and Gave us. and Said he
had opend. his ears to what we had Said and his heart was glad and
requested us to take this mare and Coalt as a token of his
deturmination to pursue our Councels &c. The twisted hair brough Six of
our horses all in fine order. Great numbers of Indians apply to us for
medical aide which we gave them Cherfully So far as our Skill and Store
of Medicine would enable us. Schrofla, ulsers, rhumitism, Sore eyes,
and the loss of the use of their Limbs are the most common cases among
them. the latter Case is not very common but We have Seen 3 instances
of it among the Chopunnish. a very extroadinery complnt. about 3 P.M.
Geo. drewyer arived with 2 deer which he had killed. he informed us
that the Snow Still Continued to cover the plains. We are now pretty
well informed that Tunnachemootoolt, Hohastillpilp, Neshneparkkeeook,
and Yoomparkkartim were the principal Chiefs of the Chopunnish Nation
and ranked in the order here mentioned; as all those chiefs were
present in our lodge we thought it a favourable time to repeet what had
been said and to enter more minutely into the views of our government
with respect to the inhabitents of this Western part of the Continent,
their intention of establishing tradeing houses for their relief, their
wish to restore peace and harmony among the nativs, the Strength welth
and powers of our Nation &c. to this end we drew a map of the Country
with a coal on a mat in their way, and by the assistance of the Snake
boy and our intrepeters were enabled to make ourselves under stood by
them altho it had to pass through French, Minnetare, Shoshone and
Chopunnish languages. the interpretation being tegious it occupied the
greater part of the day, before we had communicated to them what we
wished. they appeared highly pleased. after this Council was over we
amused ourselves with Shewing them the power of Magnetism, the Spye
glass, compass, watch, air gun and Sundery other articles equally novel
and incomprehensible to them. they informed us that after we left the
Menetares last Spring that 3 of their people had visited that nation,
and that they had informed them of us, and had told them that we had
Such things in our possession but that they Could not place Confidence
in the information untill they had now witnessed it themselves
In the evening a man was brought in a robe by four Indians and laid
down near me. they informed me that this man was a Chief of
Considerable note who has been in the Situation I see him for 5 years.
this man is incapable of moveing a single limb but lies like a corps in
whatever position he is placed, yet he eats hartily, dejests his food
perfectly, enjoys his under standing, his pulse are good, and has
retained his flesh almost perfectly; in Short were it not that he
appears a little pale from having been So long in the Shade, he might
well be taken for a man in good health. I Suspect that their
Confinement to a deet of roots may give rise to all the disordes of the
Nativs of this quarter except the Rhumitism & Sore eyes, and to the
latter of those, the State of debility incident to a vegitable diet may
measureably contribute.-. The Chopunnish not withstanding they live in
the Crouded manner before mentioned are much more clenly in their
persons and habitations than any nation we have Seen Sence we left the
Illinois. These nativs take their fish in the following manner to wit.
a Stand Small Stage or warf consisting of Sticks and projecting about
10 feet into the river and about 3 feet above the water on the
extremity of this the fisherman stands with his guilt or a Skooping Net
which differ but little in their form those Commonly used in our
Country it is formed thus with those nets they take the Suckers and
also the Salmon trout and I am told the Salmon also.
[Lewis, May 12, 1806]
Monday May 12th 1806.
This morning a great number of indians collected about us as usual. we
took an early breakfast and Capt. C. began to administer eyewater to a
croud of at least 50 applicants. The Indians held a council among
themselves this morning with rispect to the subjects on which we had
spoken to them yesterday. the result as we learnt was favourable. they
placed confidence in the information they had received and resolved to
pusue our advise. after this council was over the principal Cheif or
the broken Arm, took the flour of the roots of cows and thickened the
scope in the kettles and baskets of all his people, this being ended he
made a harangue the purport of which was making known the deliberations
of their council and impressing the necessity of unanimity among them
and a strict attention to the resolutions which had been agreed on in
councill; he concluded by inviting all such men as had resolved to
abide by the decrees of the council to come and eat and requested such
as would not be so bound to shew themselves by not partaking of the
feast. I was told by one of our men who was present, that there was not
a dissenting voice on this great national question, but all swallowed
their objections if any they had, very cheerfully with their mush.
during the time of this loud and animated harangue of the Cheif the
women cryed wrung their hands, toar their hair and appeared to be in
the utmost distress. after this cerimony was over the Cheifs and
considerate men came in a body to where we were seated at a little
distance from our tent, and two young men at the instance of the
nation, presented us each with a fine horse. we caused the cheifs to be
seated and gave them each a flag a pound of powder and fifty balls. we
also gave powder and ball to the two young men who had presented the
horses. Neeshneeparkkeeook gave Drewyer a good horse. The band of
Ten-nach-e-moo-toolt have six guns which they acquired from the
Minnetaries and appear anxious to obtain arms and amunition. after they
had received those presents the Cheifs requested we would retire to the
tent whither they accompanied us, they now informed us that they wished
to give an answer to what we had said to them the preceeding day, but
also informed us that there were many of their people waiting in great
pain at that moment for the aid of our medecine. it was agreed between
Capt. C. and myself that he should attend the sick as he was their
favorite phisician while I would here and answer the Cheifs. The father
of Hohastillpilp was the orrator on this occasion. he observed that
they had listened with attention to our advise and that the whole
nation were resolved to follow it, that they had only one heart and one
tongue on this subject. he said they were fully sensible of the
advantages of peace and that the ardent desire which they had to
cultivate peace with their neighbours had induced his nation early last
summer to send a pipe by 3 of their brave men to the Shoshonees on the
S. side of Lewis's river in the Plains of Columbia, that these people
had murdered these men, which had given rise to the war expedition
against that nation last fall; that their warriors had fallen in with
the shoshonees at that time and had killed 42 of them with the loss of
3 only on their part; that this had satisfyed the blood of their
disceased friends and that they would never again make war against the
Shoshonees, but were willing to receive them as friends. that they
valued the lives of their young men too much to wish them to be engaged
in war. That as we had not yet seen the black foot Indians and the
Minnetares of Fort de Prarie they did not think it safe to venture over
to the Plains of the Missouri, where they would fondly go provided
those nations would not kill them. that when we had established our
forts on the Missouri as we had promised, they would come over and
trade for arms Amunition &c. and live about us. that it would give them
much pleasure to be at peace with these nations altho they had shed
much of their blood. he said that the whitemen might be assured of
their warmest attatchment and that they would alwas give them every
assistance in their power; that they were poor but their hearts were
good. he said that some of their young men would go over with us to the
Missouri and bring them the news as we wished, and that if we could
make a peace between themselves and their enimies on the other side of
the mountain their nation would go over to the Missouri in the latter
end of the summer. on the subject of one of their cheifs accompanying
us to the Land of the whitemen they could not yet determine, but that
they would let us know before we left them. that the snow was yet so
deep in the mountain if we attempted to pass we would certainly perish,
and advised us to remain untill after the next full moon when the said
the snow would disappear and we could find grass for our horses.--when
the oald man had concluded I again spoke to them at some length with
which they appeared highly gratifyed. after smoking the pipe which was
about 2 P.M. they gave us another fat horse to kill which was
thankfully received by the party. Capt C. now joined us having just
made an end of his medical distrabution. we gave a phiol of eyewater to
the Broken Arm, and requested that he would wash the eyes of such as
might apply for that purpose, and that when it was exhausted we would
replenish the phiol. he was much pleased with this present. we now gave
the Twisted hair one gun and a hundred balls and 2 lbs. of powder in
part for his attention to our horses and promised the other gun and a
similar quantity of powder and lead when we received the ballance of
our horses. this gun we had purchased of the indians below for 2
Elkskins. this evening three other of our original stock of horses were
produced, they were in fine order as well as those received yesterday.
we have now six horses out only, as our old guide Toby and his son each
took a horse of ours when they returned last fall. these horses are
said to be on the opposite side of the river at no great distance from
this place. we gave the young men who had delivered us the two horses
this morning some ribbon, blue wampum and vermillion, one of them gave
me a hansome pare of legings and the Broken Arm gave Capt. C. his
shirt, in return for which we gave him a linin shirt.--we informed the
indians of our wish to pass the river and form a camp at some proper
place to fish, hunt, and graize our horses untill the snows of the
mountains would permit us to pass. they recommended a position a few
miles distant from hence on the opposite side of the river, but
informed us that there was no canoe at this place by means of which we
could pass our baggage over the river, but promised to send a man early
in the morning for one which they said would meet us at the river by
noon the next day. The indians formed themselves this evening into two
large parties and began to gamble for their beads and other ornaments.
the game at which they played was that of hiding a stick in their hands
which they frequently changed acompanying their opperations with a
song. this game seems common to all the nations in this country, and
dose not differ from that before discribed of the Shoshonees on the S.
E. branch of Lewis's river. we are anxious to procure some guides to
accompany us on the different routs we mean to take from Travellers
rest; for this purpose we have turned our attention to the Twisted hair
who has several sons grown who are well acquainted as well as himself
with the various roads in those mountains. we invited the old fellow to
remove his family and live near us while we remained; he appeared
gratifyed with this expression of our confidence and promissed to do
so.--shot at a mark with the indians, struck the mark with 2 balls.
distn. 220 yds.