Wednesday March 19th 1806.
It continued to rain and hail today in such manner that nothing further
could be done to the canoes. a pratry were sent out early after the Elk
which was killed yesterday with which they returned in the course of a
few hours. we gave Comowooll alias Connia, a cirtificate of his good
conduct and the friendly intercourse which he has maintained with us
during our residence at this place; we also gave him a list of our
names.do not. The Killamucks, Clatsops, Chinnooks, Cathlahmahs and
Wac-ki-a-cums resemble each other as well in their persons and dress as
in their habits and manners.--their complexion is not remarkable, being
the usual copper brown of most of the tribes of North America. they are
low in statue reather diminutive, and illy shapen; possessing thick
broad flat feet, thick ankles, crooked legs wide mouths thick lips,
nose moderately large, fleshey, wide at the extremity with large
nostrils, black eyes and black coarse hair. their eyes are sometimes of
a dark yellowish brown the puple black. I have observed some high
acqualine noses among them but they are extreemty rare. the nose is
generally low between the eyes.--the most remarkable trait in their
physiognomy is the peculiar flatness and width of forehead which they
artificially obtain by compressing the head between two boards while in
a state of infancy and from which it never afterwards perfectly
recovers. this is a custom among all the nations we have met with West
of the Rocky mountains. I have observed the heads of many infants,
after this singular bandage had been dismissed, or about the age of 10
or eleven months, that were not more than two inches thick about the
upper edge of the forehead and reather thiner still higher. from the
top of the head to the extremity of the nose is one streight line. this
is done in order to give a greater width to the forehead, which they
much admire. this process seems to be continued longer with their
female than their mail children, and neither appear to suffer any pain
from the operation. it is from this peculiar form of the head that the
nations East of the Rocky mountains, call all the nations on this side,
except the Aliahtans or snake Indians, by the generic name of Flat
heads. I think myself that the prevalence of this custom is a strong
proof that those nations having originally proceeded from the same
stock. The nations of this neighbourhood or those recapitulated above,
wear their hair loosly flowing on the back and sholders; both men and
women divide it on the center of the crown in front and throw it back
behind the ear on each side. they are fond of combs and use them when
they can obtain them; and even without the aid of the comb keep their
hair in better order than many nations who are in other rispects much
more civilized than themselves.--the large or apparently swolen legs
particularly observable in the women are obtained in a great measure by
tying a cord tight around the ankle. their method of squating or
resting themselves on their hams which they seem from habit to prefer
to siting, no doubt contributes much to this deformity of the legs by
preventing free circulation of the blood. the dress of the man consists
of a smal robe, which reaches about as low as the middle of the thye
and is attatched with a string across the breast and is at pleasure
turned from side to side as they may have occasion to disencumber the
right or left arm from the robe entirely, or when they have occasion
for both hands, the fixture of the robe is in front with it's corners
loosly hanging over their arms. they sometimes wear a hat which has
already been discribed. this robe is made most commonly of the skins of
a small animal which I have supposed was the brown mungo, tho they have
also a number, of the skins of the tiger cat, some of those of the Elk
which are used principally on their war excursions, others of the skins
of the deer panther and bear and a blanket wove with the fingers of the
wool of the native sheep. a mat is sometimes temperarily thrown over
the sholders to protect them from rain. they have no other article of
cloathing whatever neither winter nor summer. and every part except the
sholders and back is exposed to view. they are very fond of the dress
of the whites, which they wear in a similar manner when they can obtain
them, except the shoe which I have never seen woarn by any of them.
they call us pah-shish'e-ooks, or cloth men. The dress of the women
consists of a robe, tissue, and sometimes when the weather is
uncommonly cold, a vest. their robe is much smaller than that of the
men, never reaching lower than the waist nor extending in front
sufficiently far to cover the body. it is like that of the men confined
across the breast with a string and hangs loosly over the sholders and
back. the most esteemed and valuable of these robes are made of strips
of the skins of the Sea Otter net together with the bark of the white
cedar or silk-grass. these strips are first twisted and laid parallel
with each other a little distance assunder, and then net or wove
together in such manner that the fur appears equally on both sides, and
unites between the strands. it make a warm and soft covering. other
robes are formed in a similar manner of the skin of the Rackoon, beaver
&c. at other times the skin is dressed in the hair and woarn without
any further preperation. in this way one beaver skin, or two of those
of the Raccoon or tiger catt forms the pattern of the robe. the vest is
always formed in the manner first discribed of their robes and covers
the body from the armpits to the waist, and is confined behind, and
destitute of straps over the sholder to keep it up. when this vest is
woarn the breast of the woman is concealed, but without it which is
almost always the case, they are exposed, and from the habit of
remaining loose and unsuspended grow to great length particularly in
aged women in many of whom I have seen the hubby reach as low as the
waist. The garment which occupys the waist, and from thence as low as
nearly to the knee before and the ham, behind, cannot properly be
denominated a petticoat, in the common acceptation of that term; it is
a tissue of white cedar bark, bruised or broken into small shreds,
which are interwoven in the middle by means of several cords of the
same materials, which serve as well for a girdle as to hold in place
the shreds of bark which form the tissue, and which shreds confined in
the middle hang with their ends pendulous from the waist, the whole
being of sufficient thickness when the female stands erect to conceal
those parts usually covered from formiliar view, but when she stoops or
places herself in many other attitudes, this battery of Venus is not
altogether impervious to the inquisitive and penetrating eye of the
amorite. This tissue is sometimes formed of little twisted cords of the
silk grass knoted at their ends and interwoven as discribed of the
bark. this kind is more esteemed and last much longer than those of
bark. they also form them of flags and rushes which are woarn in a
similar manner. the women as well as the men sometimes cover themselves
from the rain by a mat woarn over the sholders. they also cover their
heads from the rain sometimes with a common water cup or basket made of
the cedar bark and beargrass. these people seldom mark their skins by
puncturing and introducing a colouring matter. such of them as do mark
themselves in this manner prefer their legs and arms on which they
imprint parallel lines of dots either longitudinally or circularly. the
women more frequently than the men mark themselves in this manner.
The favorite ornament of both sexes are the common coarse blue and
white beads which the men wear tightly wound arond their wrists and
ankles many times untill they obtain the width of three or more inches.
they also wear them in large rolls loosly arond the neck, or pendulous
from the cartelage of the nose or rims of the ears which are purforated
for the purpose. the women wear them in a similar manner except in the
nose which they never purforate. they are also fond of a species of
wampum which is furnished them by a trader whom they call Swipton. it
seems to be the native form of the shell without any preperation. this
shell is of a conic form somewhat curved, about the size of a raven's
quill at the base, and tapering to a point which is sufficiently large
to permit to hollow through which a small thred passes; it is from one
to 11/2 Inches in length, white, smooth, hard and thin. these are woarn
in the same manner in which the beads are; and furnish the men with
their favorite ornament for the nose. one of these shells is passed
horizontally through the cartilage of the nose and serves frequently as
a kind of ring to prevent the string which suspends other ornaments at
the same part from chafing and freting the flesh. the men sometimes
wear collars of bears claws, and the women and children the tusks of
the Elk variously arranged on their necks arms &c. both males and
females wear braslets on their wrists of copper brass or Iron in
various forms. I think the most disgusting sight I have ever beheld is
these dirty naked wenches. The men of these nations partake of much
more of the domestic drudgery than I had at first supposed. they
collect and prepare all the fuel, make the fires, assist in cleansing
and preparing the fish, and always cook for the strangers who visit
them. they also build their houses, construct their canoes, and make
all their wooden utensils. the peculiar provence of the woman seems to
be to collect roots and manufacture various articles which are prepared
of rushes, flags, cedar bark, bear grass or waytape. the management of
the canoe for various purposes seems to be a duty common to both sexes,
as also many other occupations which with most Indian nations devolves
exclusively on the woman. their feasts which they are very fond are
always prepared and served by the men.
Comowool and the two Cathlahmahs left us this evening. it continued to
rain so constantly today that Sergt. Pryor could not pitch his canoes.
[Clark, March 19, 1806]
Wednesday March 19th 1806 Inds. Descd.
It continued to rain and hail in Such a manner that nothing Could be
done to the Canoes. a party were Sent out early after the Elk which was
killed last evening, with which they returned in the Course of a fiew
hours, we gave Commorwool alias Cania, a Certificate of his good
conduct and the friendly intercourse which he has maintained with us
dureing our residence at this place; we also gave him a list of our
names &c.--The Kilamox, Clatsops, Chinnooks, Cath lah mahs Wau ki a cum
and Chiltz I-resemble each other as well in their persons and Dress as
in their habits and manners.--their complexion is not remarkable, being
the usial Copper brown of the tribes of North America. they are low in
Statue reather diminutive, and illy Shaped, possessing thick broad flat
feet, thick ankles, crooked legs, wide mouths, thick lips, noses Stuk
out and reather wide at the base, with black eyes and black coarse hair.
I have observed Some high acqualine noses among them but they are
extreemly reare. the most remarkable trate in their physiognamy is the
peculiar flatness and width of the forehead which they Artificially
obtain by compressing the head between two boards while in a State of
infancy, and from which it never afterwards perfectly recovers. This is
a custom among all the nations, we have met with West of the Rocky
Mountains. I have observed the head of maney infants, after this
Singular Bandage had been dismissed, or about the age of 11 or 12
months, that were not more than two inches thick about the upper part
of the forehead and reather thiner Still higher. from the top of the
head to the extremity of the nose is one Streight line. this is done in
order to give a greater width to the forehead, which they much admire.
This process seams to be continued longer with their female than their
male children, and neither appears to Suffer any pain from the
opperation. it is from this peculiar form of the head that the nations
East of the Rocky Mountains, call all the nations on this Side, except
Aliahtans, So-so-ne, or Snake Indians by the General name of Flat
Heads. I think my Self that the provalence of this custom is a Strong
proof of those nations haveing originally proceeded from the Same
Stock. The nations of this neighbourhood or those recpitulated above,
ware their hair loosly flowing on their back and Sholders; both men and
women divide it on the Center of the Crown in front and throw it back
behind the ear on each Side. they are fond of Combs and use them when
they Can obtain them; and even without the aid of Combs keep their in
better order, than inaney nations who are in other respects much more
Civilized than themselves.
The large or apparently Sweled legs particularly observable in the
women, are obtained in a great measure by tying a cord tight around the
leg above the ancle bone. their method of Squating or resting
themselves on their hams which they Seam from habit to prefer to
Setting, no doubt contributes much to this deformity of the legs by
preventing free circulation of the blood. This is also the Custom of
the nations above.
The dress of the men like those above on the Columbia river Consists of
a Small robe, which reaches about as low as the middle of the thye and
is attatched with a String across the breast and is at pleasure turned
from Side to Side as they may have an occasion to disincumber the right
or left arm from the robe entirely, or when they have occasion for both
hands, the fixture of the robe is in front with it's corner loosly
hanging over their Arms. they Sometimes wear a hat which have already
been discribed (See 29th Jany.) Their Robes are made most commonly of
the Skins of a Small animal which I have Supposed was the brown mungo,
tho they have also a number of the Skins of the tiger Cat, Some of
those of the Elk which are used principally on their war excursions,
others of the Skins of Deer, panthor, Bear, and the Speckle Loon, and
blankets wove with the fingers of the wool of the native Sheep. and
Some of those on the Sea Coast have robes of Beaver and the Sea Otter.
a mat is Sometimes temperaly thrown over the Sholders to protect them
from rain. they have no other article of Cloathing whatever neither
winter nor Summer, and every part except the Sholders and back is
exposed to view. they are very fond of the dress of the whites, which
they ware in a Similar manner when they Can obtain them, except the
Shoe or mockerson which I have never Seen worn by any of them. They
Call us pah-shish-e-ooks or Cloath men. The dress of the women consists
of a roab, tissue, and Sometimes when the weather is uncommonly Cold, a
vest. their robe is much Smaller than that of the men, never reaching
lower than the waist nor extending in front Sufficiently far to cover
the body. it is like that of the men confined across the breast with a
String and hangs loosely over the Sholders and back. the most esteemed
& valuable of those robes are made of Strips of the Skin of the Sea
Otter net together with the bark of the white Cedar or Silk grass.
these fish are first twisted and laid parallel with each other a little
distance asunder, and then net or wove together in Such a manner that
the fur appears equally on both Sides, and united between the Strands.
it makes a worm and Soft covering. other robes are formed in a Similar
manner of the Skins of the rackoon, beaver &c. at other times the Skins
is dressed in the hair and worn without any further preperation. in
this way one beaver Skin or two of the rackoon or one of the tiger Cat
forms a vest and Covers the body from the Armpits to the waist, and is
confined behind, and destitute of Straps over the Sholder to keep it
up. when this vest is worn the breast of the woman in consealed, but
without it which is almost always the case, they are exposed, and from
the habit of remaining loose and unsuspended grow to great length,
particularly in aged women, on many of whome I have Seen the bubby
reach as low as the waist. The petticoat or tissue which occupies the
waiste has been already described (See 7th Novr. 1805) formd. of the
Bark of white cedar, Silk grass, flags & rushes. The women as well as
the men Sometimes cover themselves from the rain by a mat worn over the
Sholders. They also Cover their heads from the rain Sometimes with a
common water cup or basket made of Cedar bark and bear grass.
Those people Sometimes mark themselves by punctureing and introducing a
Colouring matter. Such of them as do mark themselves in this manner
prefur the legs and arms on which they imprint parallel lines of dots
either longitudinally or circularly. the woman more frequently than the
men mark themselves in this manner. The favorite orniments of both
Sexes are the Common coarse blue and white beads as before discribed of
the Chinnooks. Those beads the men wear tightly wound around their
wrists and Ankles maney times untill they obtain the width of three or
four inches. they also wear them in large rolls loosly around the neck,
or pendulous from the cartelage of the nose or rims of the ears which
are purfarated in different places round the extremities for the
purpose. the woman wear them in a Similar manner except in the nose
which they never purfarate. they are also fond of a Species of wompum,
which is furnished by a trader whome they call Swipton. it seams to be
the nativ form of the Shell without any preperation. this Shell is of a
conic form Somewhat curved about the Size of a ravens quill at the
base, and tapering to a point which is Sufficiently large to permit a
hollow through which a Small thread passes; it is from 1 to 11/2 inches
in length, white, Smooth, hard and thin these are worn in the Same
manner in which the beeds are; and furnish the men with their favorite
orniment for the nose. one of these Shells is passed horizontally
through cartilage of the nose and Serves frequently as a kind of ring
which prevents the string which Suspends other orniments at the Same
part from Chafing and freting the flesh. The men Sometimes wear Collars
of Bears Claws, and the women and children the tusks of the Elk
variously arranged on their necks arms &c. both male and female wear
bracelets on their wrists of Copper, Brass or Iron in various forms.
The women Sometimes wash their faces & hands but Seldom. I think the
most disgusting Sight I have ever beheld is those dirty naked wenches.
The men of those nations partake of much more of the domestic drudgery
than I had at first Supposed. they Collect and prepare all the fuel,
make the fires, cook for the Strangers who visit them, and assist in
Cleaning and prepareing the fish. they also build their houses,
construct their Canoes, and make all their wooden utensils. the
peculiar province of the woman Seams to be to collect roots and
manufacture various articles which are prepared of rushes, flags, Cedar
bark, bear grass or way tape, also dress and manufacture the Hats &
robes for Common use. the management of the Canoe for various purposes
Seams to be a duty common to both Sexes, as are many other occupations
which with most Indian nations devolve exclusively on the womin. their
feasts of which they are very fond are always prepared and Served by
the men.-.-.
it Continued to rain So constantly dureing the day that Sergt. Pryor
Could not Pay his Canoes. The Clatsop Chief Commowool and the two
Cath-lah-mahs left us this evening and returned to their village.
[Lewis, March 20, 1806]
Thursday March 20th 1806.
It continued to rain and blow so violently today that nothing could be
done towards forwarding our departure. we intended to have Dispatched
Drewyer and the two Fieldses to hunt near the bay on this side of the
Cathlahmahs untill we jounded them from hence, but the rain rendered
our departure so uncertain that we declined this measure for the
present. nothing remarkable happened during the day. we have yet
several days provision on hand, which we hope will be sufficient to
subsist us during the time we are compelled by the weather to remain at
this place.
Altho we have not fared sumptuously this winter and spring at Fort
Clatsop, we have lived quite as comfortably as we had any reason to
expect we should; and have accomplished every object which induced our
remaining at this place except that of meeting with the traders who
visit the entrance of this river. our salt will be very sufficient to
last us to the Missouri where we have a stock in store.--it would have
been very fortunate for us had some of those traders arrived previous
to our departure from hence, as we should then have had it our power to
obtain an addition to our stock of merchandize which would have made
our homeward bound journey much more comfortable. many of our men are
still complaining of being unwell; Willard and Bratton remain weak,
principally I beleive for the want of proper food. I expect when we get
under way we shall be much more healthy. it has always had that effect
on us heretofore. The guns of Drewyer and Sergt. Pryor were both out of
order. the first was repared with a new lock, the old one having become
unfit for uce; the second had the cock screw broken which was replaced
by a duplicate which had been prepared for the lock at Harpers ferry
where she was manufactured. but for the precaution taken in bringing on
those extra locks, and parts of locks, in addition to the ingenuity of
John Shields, most of our guns would at this moment been untirely unfit
for use; but fortunately for us I have it in my power here to record
that they are all in good order.
[Clark, March 20, 1806]
Thursday March 20th 1806
It continued to rain and blow so violently to day that nothing could be
done towards fowarding our departure. we intended to have dispatched
Drewyer & the 2 Field'es to hunt above Point William untill we joined
them from hense but the rain renders our departure So uncertain that we
decline this measure for the present. nothing remarkable happened
dureing the day. we have yet Several days provisions on hand, which we
hope will be Sufficient to Serve us dureing the time we are compell'd
by the weather to remain at this place.-.
Altho we have not fared Sumptuously this winter & Spring at Fort
Clatsop, we have lived quit as comfortably as we had any reason to
expect we Should; and have accomplished every object which induced our
remaining at this place except that of meeting with the traders who
visit the enterance of this river. our Salt will be very sufficient to
last us to the Missouri where we have a Stock in Store.--it would have
been very fortunate for us had Some of those traders arrived previous
to our departure from hence; as we Should then have had it in our power
to obtain an addition to our Stock of merchandize, which would have
made our homeward bound journey much more comfortable.
Maney of our men are Still Complaining of being unwell; Bratten and
Willard remain weak principally I believe for the want of proper food.
I expect when we get under way that we Shall be much more healthy. it
has always had that effect on us heretofore.
The Guns of Sergt. Pryor & Drewyer were both out of order. the first
had a Cock screw broken which was replaced by a duplicate which had
been prepared for the Locks at Harpers Ferry; the Second repared with a
new Lock, the old one becoming unfit for use. but for the precaution
taken in bringing on those extra locks, and parts of locks, in addition
to the ingenuity of John Shields, most of our guns would at this moment
been entirely unfit for use; but fortunate for us I have it in my power
here to record that they are in good order, and Complete in every
respect-
[Lewis, March 21, 1806]
Friday March 21st 1806.
As we could not set out we thought it best to send out some hunters and
accordingly dispatched Sheilds and Collins on this side the Netul for
that purpose with orders to return in the evening or sooner if they
were successfull. The hunters returned late in the evening
unsuccessfull. we have not now more than one day's provision on hand.
we directed Drewyer and the Feildses to set out tomorrow morning early,
and indevour to provide us some provision on the bay beyond point
William. we were visited to day by some Clatsop indians who left us in
the evening. our sick men Willard and bratton do not seem to recover;
the former was taken with a violent pain in his leg and thye last
night. Bratton is now so much reduced that I am somewhat uneasy with
rispect to his recovery; the pain of which he complains most seems to
be seated in the small of his back and remains obstinate. I beleive
that it is the rheumatism with which they are both afflicted.
[Clark, March 21, 1806]
Friday March 21st 1806
as we could not Set out we thought it best to Send out Some hunters and
accordingly dispatched Shields and Collins on this Side of the Netul
for that purpose with orders to return in the evening or Sooner if they
were Successfull. they returned late in the evening unsuccessfull. we
have not now more than two days provisions on hand. we derected Drewyer
and the two Fieldses to Set out tomorrow morning early, and indevour to
provide us Some provision on the Bay beyond point William. we were
visited to day by Some Clatsops who left us in the evening. our sick
men willard and Bratten do not Seem to recover; the former was taken
with a violent pain in his leg and thye last night. Bratten is now so
much reduced that I am Somewhat uneasy with respect to his recovery;
the pain of which he complains most Seems to be Settled in the Small of
his back and remains obstenate. I believe that it is the Rheumatism
with which they are both affected.-.
[Lewis, March 22, 1806]
Saturday March 22cd 1806.
Drewyer and the Feildses departed this morning agreably to the order of
the last evening. we sent out seven hunters this morning in different
directions on this side the Netul. about 10 A.M. we were visited by 4
Clatsops and a killamucks; they brought some dried Anchoveis and a dog
for sale which we purchased. the air is perefectly temperate, but it
continues to rain in such a manner that there be is no possibility of
geting our canoes completed.--at 12 OCk. we were visited by Comowooll
and 3 of the Clatsops. to this Cheif we left our houses and funiture.
he has been much more kind an hospitable to us than any other indian in
this neighbourhood. the Indians departed in the evening. the hunters
all returned except Colter, unsuccessfull. we determined to set out
tomorrow at all events, and to stop the canoes temperarily with Mud and
halt the first fair day and pay them. the leafing of the hucklebury
riminds us of spring.
[Clark, March 22, 1806]
Saturday March 22nd 1806
Drewyer and the two Fieldses departed this morning agreably to the
order of last evening. we Sent out Six hunters this morning in
different directions on both Sides of the Netul. about 10 A.M. we were
visited by Que-ne-o alias Commorwool 8 Clatsops and a Kil-a-mox; they
brought Some dried Anchovies, a common Otter Skin and a Dog for Sale
all of which we purchased. the Dog we purchased for our Sick men, the
fish for to add to our Small Stock of provision's, and the Skin to
cover my papers. those Indians left us in the evening. the air is
perfectly temperate, but it continues to rain in Such a manner that
there is no possibillity of getting our canoes completed in order to
Set out on our homeward journey. The Clatsops inform us that Several of
their nation has the Sore throat, one of which has laterly died with
this disorder. the Hunters Sent out to day all returned except Colter
unsessfull.
[Lewis, March 23, 1806]
Sunday March 23rd 1806.
Half after 9 A.M. Colter arrived, having killed one Elk but so distant
that we could not send for the meat and get arround Point William
today, we therefore prefered seting out and depending on Drewyer and
the hunters we have sent forward for meat. the wind is pretty high but
it seems to be the common opinion that we can pass point William. we
accordingly distributed the baggage and directed the canoes to be
launched and loaded for our departure.--at 1 P.M. we bid a final adieu
to Fort Clatsop. we had not proceeded more than a mile before we met
Delashelwilt and a party of 20 Chinnooks men and women. this Cheif
leaning that we were in want of a canoe some days past, had brought us
one for sale, but being already supplyed we did not purchase it. I
obtained one Sea Otter skin from this party. at a 1/4 before three we
had passed Meriwethers bay and commenced coasting the difficult shore;
at 1/2 after five we doubled point William, and at 7 arrived in the
mouth of a small creek where we found our hunters. they had killed 2
Elk, at the distance of a mile & 1/2. it was too late to send after it
this evening. we therefore encamped on the Stard side of the Creek. the
wind was not very hard.
[Clark, March 23, 1806]
Sunday 23rd March 1806
This morning proved So raney and uncertain that we were undeturmined
for Some time whether we had best Set out & risque the river which
appeared to be riseing or not. Jo. Colter returned haveing killed an
Elk about 3 miles towards Point Adams. the rained Seased and it became
fair about Meridean, at which time we loaded our Canoes & at 1 P.M.
left Fort Clatsop on our homeward bound journey. at this place we had
wintered and remained from the 7th of Decr. 1805 to this day and have
lived as well as we had any right to expect, and we can Say that we
were never one day without 3 meals of Some kind a day either pore Elk
meat or roots, not withstanding the repeeted fall of rain which has
fallen almost Constantly Since we passed the long narrows on the ____
of Novr. last indeed we have had only ____ days fair weather since that
time. Soon after we had Set out from Fort Clatsop we were met by De
lash el wilt & 8 men of the Chinnooks, and Delashelwilts wife the old
bond and his Six Girls, they had, a Canoe, a Sea otter Skin, Dried fish
and hats for Sale, we purchased a Sea otter Skin, and proceeded on,
thro Meriwethers Bay, there was a Stiff breese from the S. W. which
raised Considerable Swells around Meriwethers point which was as much
as our Canoes Could ride. above point William we came too at the Camp
of Drewyer & the 2 Field's. they had killed 2 Elk which was about 11/2
miles distant. here we Encampd. for the night having made 16 miles.
[Lewis, March 24, 1806]
Monday March 24th 1806.
This morning we sent out a party of 15, at light, for the meat, and
concluded to take breakfast before we set out. they soon returned. we
breakfasted and set out at 1/2 after 9 A.M. Saw a white woodpecker with
a red head of the small kind common to the United States; this bird has
but lately returned. they do not remain during the winter. the country
thick and heavily timbered. we saw very few waterfowl today, not a
single swan, white brant nor a small goose is to be seen. a few
Cormorant, duckinmallard, butterbox, and common large geese were only
to be found the tide being out this morning we found some difficulty in
passing through the bay below the Cathlahmah village; this side of the
river is very shallow to the distance of 4 miles from the shore tho
there is a channel sufficient for canoes near S. side. at 1 P.M. we
arrived at the Cathlahmah village where we halted and purchased some
wappetoe, a dog for the sick, and a hat for one of the men. on one of
the seal Islands opposite to the village of these people thy have
scaffolded their dead in canoes elivating them above tidewater mark.
these people are very fond of sculpture in wood of which they exhibit a
variety of specemines about their houses. the broad peices supporting
the center of the roof and those through which the doors are cut, seem
to be the peices on which they most display their taist. I saw some of
these which represented human figures setting and supporting the
burthen on their sholders. at half after 3 P.M. we set out and
continued our rout among the seal Islands; not paying much attention we
mistook our rout which an Indian perceiving pursued overtook us and put
us in the wright channel. this Cathlahmah claimed the small canoe which
we had taken from the Clatsops. however he consented very willingly to
take an Elk's skin for it which I directed should be given him and he
immediately returned. we continued our rout along the South side of the
river and encamped at an old village of 9 houses opposite to the lower
Wackkiacum village. the night was cold tho wood was abundant after dark
two Chinnook men came to us in a small canoe. they remained with us all
night. came 15 miles today.
[Clark, March 24, 1806]
Monday 24th of March 1806
Sent out 15 men verry early this morning for the flesh of the two Elk
killed by Drewyer and Fields yesterday. they returned at 8 oClock,
after taking a Slight brackfast we Set out at half past 9 a.m. and
proceeded to the Cath lah mah Village at 1 P.M. and remained untill 1/2
after 3 p.m.at this village we purchased a fiew wappato and a Dog for
our Sick men Willard and Bratten who are yet in a weak State. at this
Village I saw two very large elegant Canoes inlaid with Shills, those
Shills I took to be teeth at first View, and the nativs informed
Several of the men that they the teeth of their enemies which they had
killed in War. in examineing of them Closely haveing taken out Several
pices, we found that were Sea Shells which yet contained a part of the
iner ____ they also deckerate their Smaller wooden vessles with those
Shells which have much the appearance of humane teeth, Capt Cook may
have mistaken those Shills verry well for humane teeth without a Close
examination. The Village of these people is the dirtiest and
Stinkingest place I ever Saw in any Shape whatever, and the inhabitants
partake of the carrestick of the Village. we proceeded on through Some
difficult and narrow Channels between the Seal Islands, and the South
Side to an old village on the South Side opposit to the lower War ki a
com village, and Encamped. to this old villg. a very considerable
deposit of the dead at a Short distance below, in the usial and
Customary way of the nativs of this Coast in Canoes raised from the
ground as before described. Soon after we made our Camp 2 Indians
visited us from the opposit Side, one of them Spoke Several words of
English and repeeted the names of the traders, and maney of the Salors.
made 16 Miles
[Lewis, March 25, 1806]
Tuesday March 25th 1806.
The morning being disagreeably cold we remained and took break-fast. at
7 A.M. we set out and continued our rout along the South Coast of the
river against the wind and a strong current, our progress was of course
but slow. at noon we halted and dined. here some Clatsops came to us in
a canoe loaded with dryed anchovies, which they call Olthen, Wappetoe
and Sturgeon. they informed us that they had been up on a trading
voyage to the Skillutes.--I observe that the green bryer which I have
previously mentioned as being common on this river below tide water
retains it's leaves all winter.--the red willow and seven bark begin to
put fourth their leaves.--after dinner we passed the river to a large
Island 2 and continued our rout allong the side of the same about a
mile when we arrived at a Cathlahmah fishing cam of one lodge; here we
found 3 men 2 women and a couple of boys, who from appearances had
remained here some time for the purpose of taking sturgeon, which they
do by trolling. they had ten or douzen very fine sturgeon which had not
been long taken. we offered to purchase some of their fish but they
asked us such an extravegant price that we declined purchase. one of
the men purchased a sea Otterskin at this lodge, for which he gave a
dressed Elkskin and an handkercheif. near this lodge we met some
Cathlahmahs who had been up the river on a fishing excurtion. they had
a good stock of fish on board, but did not seem disposed to sell them.
we remained at this place about half an hour and then continued our
rout up the Island to it's head and passed to the south side. the wind
in the evening was very hard. it was with some difficulty that we could
find a spot proper for an encampment, the shore being a swamp for
several miles back; at length late in the evening opposite to the place
we had encamped on the 6th of November last; we found the entrance of a
small creek which afforded us a safe harbour from the wind and
encamped. the ground was low and moist tho we obtained a tolerable
encampment. here we found another party of Cathlahmahs about 10 in
number who had established a temperary residence for the purpose of
fishing and taking seal. they had taken a fine parcel of sturgeon and
some seal. they gave us some of the fleese of the seal which I found a
great improvement to the poor Elk. here we found Drewyer and the
Feildses who had been seperated from us since morning; they had passed
on the North side of the large Island which was much nearer. the bottom
lands are covered with cottonwood, the growth with a broad leaf which
resembles ash except the leaf. the underbrush red willow, broad leafed
willow, sevenbark, goosburry, green bryer & the larged leafed thorn;
the latter is now in bloom; the natives inform us that it bears a freut
about an inch in diameter which is good to eat.
[Clark, March 25, 1806]
Tuesday 25th of March 1806
Last night and this morning are cool wend hard a head and tide going
out, after an early brackfast we proceeded on about 4 miles and came
too on the South Side to worm and dry our Selves a little. Soon after
we had landed two Indians Came from a War kia cum village on the
opposit Side with 2 dogs and a fiew Wappato to Sell neither of which we
bought. Som Clatsops passed down in a Canoe loaded with fish and
Wappato. as the wind was hard a head and tide against us we Concluded
to delay untill the return of the tide which we expected at 1 oClock,
at which hour we Set out met two Canoes of Clatsops loaded with dried
anchovies and Sturgion which they had taken and purchased above we
crossed over to an Island on which was a Cath lahmah fishing Camp of
one Lodge; here we found 3 man two woman and a couple of boys who must
have for Some time for the purpose of taking Sturgeon which they do by
trolling. they had 10 or 12 very fine Sturgeon which had not been long
taken; we wished to purchase some of their fish but they asked Such
extravegent prices that we declined purchaseing. one of our Party
purchased a Sea otter Skin at this Lodge for which he gave a dressed
Elk Skin & a Handkerchief. we remained at this place about half an hour
and then Continued our rout. the winds in the evening was verry hard,
it was with Some dificuelty that we Could find a Spot proper for an
encampment, the Shore being a Swamp for Several miles back; at length
late in the evening opposit to the place we had encamped on the 6th of
Novr. last; we found the enterance of a Small Creek which offered us a
Safe harbour from the Winds and Encamped. the Ground was low and moist
tho we obtained a tolerable encampment. here we found another party of
Cathlahmahs about 10 in number, who had established a temporary
residence for the purpose of fishing and takeing Seal. they had taken
about 12 Sturgeon and Some Seal. they gave us Some of the flesh of the
Seal which I found a great improvement to the poor Elk. here we found
Drewyer and the 2 Fields who had been Seperated from us Since Morning;
they had passed on the North Side of the large Island which was much
nearest. the bottom lands are Covered with a Species of Arspine, the
Growth with a broad leaf which resembles ash except the leaf. the under
brush red willow, broad leafed Willow, Seven bark, Goose berry, Green
bryor, and the larged leaf thorn; the latter is Now in blume, the
nativs inform us that it bears a fruit about an Inch in diamieter which
is good to eate. the red willow and 7 bark begin to put foth their
leaves. The green bryor which I have before mentioned retains leaves
all winter. made 15 Miles
[Lewis, March 26, 1806]
Wednesday March 26th 1806.
The wind blew so hard this morning that we delayed untill 8 A.M. we
gave a medal of small size to a man by the name of Wal-lal'-le, a
principal man among the Cathlahmahs, he appeared very thankfull for the
honour conferred on him and presented us a large sturgeon. we continued
our rout up the river to an old village on the Stard. side where we
halted for dinner. we met on the way the principal Cheif of the
Cathlahmahs, Sah-hah-woh-cap, who had been up the river on a trading
voyage. he gave us some Wappetoe and fish; we also purchased some of
the latter. soon after we halted for dinner the two Wackiacums who have
been pursuing us since yesterday morning with two dogs for sale,
arrived. they wish tobacco in exchange for their dogs which we are not
disposed to give as our stock is now reduced to a very few carrots. our
men who have been accustomed to the use of this article Tobaco and to
whom we are now obliged to deny the uce of this article appear to
suffer much for the want of it. they substitute the bark of the wild
crab which they chew; it is very bitter, and they assure me they find
it a good substitute for tobacco. the smokers substitute the inner bark
of the red willow and the sacacommis. here our hunters joined us having
killed three Eagles and a large goose. I had now an oportunity of
comparing the bald with the grey Eagle; I found that the greay Eagle
was about 1/4 larger, it's legs and feet were dark while those of the
bald Eagle wer of a fine orrange yellow; the iris of the eye is also of
a dark yellowish brown while that of the other is of a bright silvery
colour with a slight admixture of yellow. after dinner we proceeded on
and passed an Elegant and extensive bottom on the South side and an
island near it's upper point which we call Fanny's Island and bottom.
the greater part of the bottom is a high dry prarie. near the river
towards the upper point we saw a fine grove of whiteoak trees; we saw
some deer and Elk at a distance in the prarie, but did not delay for
the purpose of hunting them. we continued our rout after dinner untill
late in the evening and encamped on the next island above fanny's
Island. we found it difficult to obtain as much wood as answered our
purposes. the hunters who had proceeded on before us after dinner did
not join us this evening. some Indians visited us after dark, but did
not remain long. agreeably to our estimate as we decended the river, we
came 16 m. 23rd, 16 m. the 24th, 15 the 25th, and 18 m. the 26th, tho I
now think that our estimate in decending the river was too short.
[Clark, March 26, 1806]
Wednesday March 26th 1806
The wind blew So hard untill 8 A M. that we detained, we gave a Medal
to a Man by the name of Wal-lal-le a principal man among the Cath lah
mahs, he appeared very thankfull for the honor Confured on him and
presented us with a large Sturgion. we Continued our rout up the river
to an old Village on the South Side where we halted for dinner. we met
on the way the principal Chief of the Cathlahmahs, Sah-hah-wah-cop, who
had been up the river on a trading voyage, he gave us some Wappato and
fish, we also purchased Some Wappato Soon after halted for dinner at an
Old Village on the South point opposit the lower pt. of Fannys Island.
The two Warkiacums who had been pursueing us Since yester day morning
with two dogs for Sale, arrived. they wish Tobacco in exchange for
their dogs which we are not disposed to give, as our Stock is now
reduced to 3 carrots. our men who have been acustomed to the use of
this article, and to Whome we are now obliged to deny the use of this
article appear to Suffer Much for the want of it. they Substitute the
bark of the wild Crab which they Chew; it is very bitter and they
assure me they find it a good Substitute for tobacco. the Smokers
Substitute the iner bark of the redwillow and the saccommis.
here our hunters joined us haveing killed 3 Eagles and a large Wild
goose. I had now an oppertunity of Comparing the bald with the grey
Eagle; I found the grey Eagle about 1/4 largest, its legs and feet were
dark which those of the bald eagle were of a fine orrange yellow; the
iris of the eye is also of a dark yellowish brown, while that of the
Grey is of a light Silvery colour with a Slight admixture of yellow.
after dinner I walked on Shore through an eligant bottom on the South
Side opposit to Fannys Island.
This bottom we also Call fannys bottom it is extensive and an open
leavel plain except near the river bank which is high dry rich oak
land. I saw Some deer & Elk at a distance in the Prarie. we continued
untill late in the evening and encamped on a Small Island near the
Middle of the river haveing made 18 Miles. 2 Indians Visited us this
evining
[Lewis, March 27, 1806]
Thursday March 27th 1806.
We set out early this morning and were shortly after joined by some of
the Skillutes who came along side in a small canoe for the purpose of
trading roots and fish. at 10 A.M. we arrived at two houses of this
nation on the Stard. side where we halted for breakfast. here we
overtook our hunters, they had killed nothing. the natives appeared
extreemly hospitable, gave us dryed Anchovies, Sturgeon, wappetoe,
quamash, and a speceis of small white tuberous roots about 2 inches in
length and as thick as a man's finger; these are eaten raw, are crisp,
milkey, and agreeably flavored. most of the party were served by the
natives with as much as they could eat; they insisted on our remaining
all day with them and hunting the Elk and deer which they informed us
were very abundant in their neighbourhood. but as the weather would not
permit us to dry our canoes in order to pitch them we declined their
friendly invitation, and resumed our voyage at 12 OCk. the principal
village of these Skillutes reside on the lower side of the
Cow-e-lis'-kee river a few miles from it's entrance into the columbia.
these people are said to be numer-ous. in their dress, habits, manners
and language they differ but little from the Clatsops Chinnooks &c.
they have latterly been at war with Chinnooks but peace is said now to
be restored between them, but their intercourse is not yet resumed. no
Chinnooks come above the marshey islands nor do the Skillutes visit the
mouth of the Columbia. the Clatsops, Cathlahmahs and Wackkiacums are
the carriers between these nations being in alliance with both.--The
Coweliskee is 150 yards wide, is deep and from indian Information
navigable a very considerable distance for canoes. it discharges itself
into the Columbia about three miles above a remarkable high rocky vole
which is situated on the N. side of the river by which it is washed on
the South side and is seperated from the Nothern hills of the river by
a wide bottom of several miles to which it is united. I suspect that
this river waters the country lying West of the range of mountains
which pass the columbia between the great falls and rapids, and north
of the same nearly to the low country which commences on the N. W.
coast about Latitude ____ North. above the Skillutes on this river
another nation by the name of the Hul-loo-et-tell reside, who are said
also to be numerous. at the distance Of 2 m. above the village at which
we breakfasted we passed the entrance of this river; we saw several
fishing camps of the Skillutes on both sides of the Columbia, and were
attended all the evening by parties of the natives in their canoes who
visited us for the purpose of trading their fish and roots; we
purchased as many as we wished on very moderate terms; they seemed
perfectly satisfyed with the exchange and behaved themselves in a very
orderly manner. late in the evening we passed our camp of the 5th of
November and encamped about 41/2 above at the commencement of the
bottom land on stard. below Deer Island. we had scarcely landed before
we were visited by a large canoe with eight men; from them we obtained
a dryed fruit which resembled the raspburry and which I beeive to be
the fruit of the large leafed thorn frequently mentioned. it is reather
ascid tho pleasently flavored. I preserved a specemine of this fruit I
fear that it has been baked in the process of drying and if so the seed
will not vegitate. saw the Cottonwood, sweet willow, oak, ash and the
broad leafed ash, the growth which resembles the beach &c. these form
the growth of the bottom lands while the hills are covered almost
exclusively with the various speceis of fir heretofore discribed. the
black Alder appears as well on some parts of the hills as the bottoms.
before we set out from the Skillute village we sent on Gibson's canoe
and Drewyers with orders to proceed as fast as they could to Deer
island and there to hunt and wait our arrival. we wish to halt at that
place to repair our canoes if possible. the indians who visited us this
evening remained but a short time, they passed the river to the oposite
side and encamped. the night as well as the day proved cold wet and
excessively disagreeable. we came 20 miles today.
[Clark, March 27, 1806]
Thursday March 27th 1806.
a rainey disagreeable night rained the greater part of the night we Set
out this morning verry early and proceeded on to two houses of the
Skil-lute Indians on the South Side here we found our hunters who had
Seperated from us last evening. the wind rose and the rain became very
hard Soon after we landed here we were very friendly receved by the
natives who gave all our party as much fish as they Could eate, they
also gave us Wappato and pashaquaw roots to eate prepared in their own
way. also a Species of Small white tuberous roots about 2 inches in
length and as thick as a mans finger, these are eaten raw, or crips,
milkey and agreeably flavoured; the nativs insisted on our remaining
all day with them and hunt the Elk and deer which they informed us was
very abundant in this neighbourhood. but as the weather would not
permit our drying our Canoes in order to pitch them, we declined their
friendly invertation, and resumed our voyage at 12 oClock. The
principal village of the Skil-lutes is Situated on the lower Side of
the Cow-e-lis kee river a fiew miles from it's enterance into the
Columbia. those people are Said to be noumerous, in their dress,
habits, manners and Language they differ but little from the Clatsops,
Chinnooks &c. they have latterly been at war with the Chinnooks, but
peace is Said to be now restored between them, but their inter Course
is not yet restored. no Chinnook Come above the Warkiacums, nor do the
Skillutes visit the Mouth of the Columbia. The Clatsops, Cath lahmahs &
War kia coms are the Carriers between those nations being in alliance
with both-. The Cow e lis kee river is 150 yards wide, is deep and from
Indian information navigable a very considerable distance for canoes.
it discharges itself into the Columbia about 3 miles above a remarkable
knob which is high and rocky and Situated on the North Side of the
Columbia, and Seperated from the Northern hills of the river by a Wide
bottom of Several Miles, to which it united. I Suspect that this river
Waters the Country lying west of a range of Mountains which passes the
Columbia between the Great falls and rapids, and North of the Same
nearly to the low country which Commences on the N W. Coast about
Latitude 4° ____ North. above the Skil lutes on this river another nation
by the name of the Hul-loo-et-tell reside who are Said also to be
numerous. at the distance of 2 miles above the village at which we
brackfast we passed the enterance of this river; we Saw Several fishing
camps of the Skillutes on both Sides of the Columbia, and also on both
Sides of this river. we were attended all the evening by parties of the
nativs in their Canoes who visited us for the purpose of tradeing their
fish and roots; we purchased as maney as we wished on very moderate
terms; they Seamed perfectly Satisfied with the exchange and behaved
themselves in a very orderly manner. late in the evening we passed the
place we Camped the 5th of Novr. and Encamped about 4 miles above at
the Commencement of the Columbian Vally on the Stard. Side below Deer
Island. we had Scercily landed before we were visited by a large Canoe
with 8 men; from them we obtained a dried fruit which resembled the
raspberry and which I beleave is the fruit of the large leafed thorn
frequently mentioned. it is reather ascide tho pleasently flavored. Saw
Cotton wood, Sweet Willow, white oake, ash and the broad leafed ash the
Growth which resembles the bark &c. these form the groth of the bottom
lands, whilst the Hills are almost exclusively Covered with the various
Species of fir heretofore discribed. the black alder appears on Maney
parts of the hills Sides as on the bottoms. before we Set out from the
2 houses where we brackfast we Sent on two Canoes with the best
hunters, with orders to pro ceed as fast as they Could to Deer island
and there to hunt and wait our arrival. we wish to halt at that place
and repare 2 of our Canoes if possible. the Indians that visited us
this evining remained but a Short time, they passed over to an Island
and encamped. the night as well as the day proved Cold wet and
excessively disagreeable. we Came 20 miles in the Course of this day.
[Lewis, March 28, 1806]
Friday March 28th 1806.
This morning we set out very early and at 9 A.M. arrived at the old
Indian Village on Lard side of Deer Island where we found our hunters
had halted and left one man with the two canoes at their camp; they had
arrived last evening at this place and six of them turned out to hunt
very early this morning; by 10 A.M. they all returned to camp having
killed seven deer. these were all of the common fallow deer with the
long tall. I measured the tail of one of these bucks which was upwards
of 17 Inches long; they are very poor, tho they are better than the
black tailed fallow deer of the coast. these are two very distinct
speceis of deer. the Indians call this large Island E-lal-lar or deer
island which is a very appropriate name. the hunters informed us that
they had seen upwards of a hundred deer this morning on this island.
the interior part of the island is praries and ponds, with a heavy
growth of Cottonwood ash and willow near the river. we have seen more
waterfowl on this island than we have previously seen since we left
Fort Clatsop, consisting of geese, ducks, large swan, and Sandhill
crams. I saw a few of the Canvisback duck. the duckinmallard are the
most abundant. one of the hunters killed a duck which appeared to be
the male, it was a size less than the duckinmallard. the head neck as
low as the croop, the back tail and covert of the wings were of a fine
black with a small addmixture of perple about the head and neck, the
belley & breast were white; some long feathers which lie underneath the
wings and cover the thye were of a pale dove colour with fine black
specks; the large feathers of the wings are of a dove colour. the legs
are dark, the feet are composed of 4 toes each of which there are three
in front connected by a web, the 4th is short Hat and placed high on
the heel behind the leg. the tail is composed of 14 short pointed
feathers. the beak of this duck is remarkably wide, and is 2 inches in
length, the upper chap exceeds the under one in both length and width,
insomuch that when the beak is closed the under is entirly concealed by
the upper chap. the tongue, indenture of the margin of the chaps &c.
are like those of the mallard. the nostrils are large longitudinal and
connected. a narrow strip of white garnishes the upper part or base of
the upper chap; this is succeeded by a pale skye blue colour which
occupys about one inch of the chap, is again succeeded by a transverse
stripe of white and the extremity is of a pure black. the eye is
moderately large the puple black and iris of a fine orrange yellow. the
feathers on the crown of the head are longer than those on the upper
part of neck and other parts of the head; these feathers give it the
appearance of being crested. at 1/2 after ten A.M. it became fair, and
we had the canoes which wanted repairing hailed out and with the
assistance of fires which we had kindled for the purpose dryed them
sufficiently to receive the pitch which was immediately put on them; at
3 in the evening we had them compleat and again launched and reloaded.
we should have set out, but as some of the party whom we had permitted
to hunt since we arrived have not yet returned we determined to remain
this evening and dry our beding baggage &c. the weather being fair.
Since we landed here we were visited by a large canoe with ten natives
of the quathlahpahtle nation who are numerous and reside about
seventeen miles above us on the lard. side of the Columbia, at the
entrance of a small river. they do not differ much in their dress from
those lower down and speak nearly the same language, it is in fact the
same with a small difference of accent. we saw a great number of snakes
on this island they were about the size and much the form of the common
garter snake of the Atlantic coast and like that snake are not
poisonous. they have 160 scuta on the abdomen and 71 on the tail. the
abdomen near the head, and jaws as high as the eyes, are of a bluefish
white, which as it receedes from the head becomes of a dark brown. the
field of the back and sides is black. a narrow stripe of a light yellow
runs along the center of the back, on each side of this stripe there is
a range of small transverse oblong spots of a pale brick ret which
gradually deminish as they receede from the head and disappear at the
commencement of the tail. the puple of the eye is black, with a narrow
ring of white bordering it's edge; the ballance of the iris is of a
dark yellowish brown.--the men who had been sent after the deer
returned and brought in the remnent which the Vultures and Eagles had
left us; these birds had devoured 4 deer in the course of a few hours.
the party killed and brought in three other deer a goose some ducks and
an Eagle. Drewyer also killed a tiger cat. Joseph Fields informed me
that the Vultures had draged a large buck which he had killed about 30
yards, had skined it and broken the back bone. we came five miles only
today.
[Clark, March 28, 1806]
Friday March 28th 1806
This morning we Set out verry early and at 9 A.M. arived at an old
Indian Village on the N E side of Deer island where we found our
hunters had halted and left one man with the Canoes at their Camp, they
arrived last evening at this place, and Six of them turned out very
early to hunt, at 10 A.M. they all returned to camp haveing killed
Seven Deer, those were all of the Common fallow Deer with a long tail.
I measured the tail of one of these bucks which was upwards of 17
inches long; they are very poor, tho they are better than the black
tail Species of the Sea coast. those are two very distinct Species of
Deer. the Indians call this large Island E-lal-lar, or Deer Island,
which is a very appropriate name. the hunters informed us that they had
Seen upwards of a hundred Deer this morning on this island. the
interior of this Island is a prarie & ponds, with a heavy growth of
Cotton wood, ash & willow near the river. we have Seen more water fowl
on this island than we have previously Seen Since we left Fort Clatsop,
Consisting of Geese, Ducks, large Swan & Sand Hill crains. I saw a fiew
of the Canvis back duck as I believe. at 1/2 after 10 A.M. it became
fair and we had the Canoes which wanted repareing hauled out and with
the assistance of fires which we had kindled for the purpose dryed them
Sufficiently to receve the pitch which was imedeately put on them; at 3
in the evening we had them Compleated and lanced and reloaded. we
should have Set out but some of the party whome we had permitid to hunt
Since we arrived heve not yet returned. we determined to remain here
this evening and dry our bedding &c. the weather being fair. Since we
landed here we were visited by a large Canoe with ten nativs of the
Quathlahpohtle nation who are numerous and reside about fourteen Miles
above us on the N E. Side of the Columbia above the Enterance of a
Small river which the Indians call Chfih-w&h-na-hi-ooks. we saw a great
number of Snakes on this island; they were about the Size and much the
form of the garter snake of the U. S. the back and Sides are black with
a narrow Stripe of light yellow along the Center of the back, with
small red spots on each Side they have ____ scuta on the abdomin & ____
on the tail and are not poisonous. The men who had been Sent after the
deer returned with four only, the other 4 haveing been eaten entirely
by the Voulturs except the Skin. The men we had been permitted to hunt
this evening killed 3 deer 4 Eagles & a Duck. the deer are remarkably
pore. Some rain in the after part of the day. we only made 5 miles to
day-.
[Lewis, March 29, 1806]
Saturday March 29th 1806.
We set out early this morning and proceeded along the side of Deer
Island; halted at 10 A.M. near its upper point and breakfasted. here we
were joined by three men of the Clan-nah-min-na-mun nation. the upper
point of this Island may be esteemed the lower side or commencement of
the Columbian valley. after breakfast we proceeded on and at the
distance of 14 miles from our encampment of the last evening we passed
a large inlet 300 yds in width. this inlet or arm of the river extends
itself to the South 10 or 12 M. to the hills on that side of the river
and receives the waters of a small creek which heads with killamucks
river, and that of a bayau which passes out of the Columbia about 20
miles above, the large Island thus formed we call wappetoe island. on
this inlet and Island the following nations reside, (viz)
Clan-nah-min-namun, Clacks-star, Cath-lah-cum-up, Clah-in-na-ta,
Cath-lah-nah-qui-ah, and Cath-lah-cam-mah-tup. the two first reside on
the inlet and the others on the bayau and island.--observed a speceies
of small wild onion growing among the moss on the rocks, they resemble
the shives of our gardens and grow remarkably close together forming a
perfect turf; they are quite as agreeably flavoured as the shives. on
the North side of the columbia a little above the entrance of this
inlet a considerable river discharges itself. this stream the natives
call the Cah-wah-na-hi-ooks. it is 150 yards wide and at present
discharges a large body of water, tho from the information of the same
people it is not navigable but a short distance in consequence of falls
and rappids a tribe called the Hul-lu-ettell reside on this river above
it's entr.--at the distance of three miles above the entrance of the
inlet on the N. side behind the lower point of an island we arrived at
the village of the Cath-lah-poh-tle with consists of 14 large wooden
houses. here we arrived at 3 P.M. the language of these people as well
as those on the inlet and wappetoe Island differs in some measure from
the nations on the lower part of the river. tho many of their words are
the same, and a great many others with the difference only of accent.
the form of their houses and dress of the men, manner of living habits
customs &c as far as we could discover are the same. their women wear
their ornaments robes and hair as those do below tho here their hair is
more frequently braded in two tresses and hang over each ear in front
of the body. in stead of the tissue of bark woarn by the women below,
they wear a kind of leather breech clout about the width of a common
pocket handkerchief and reather longer. the two corners of this at one
of the narrow ends are confined in front just above the hips; the other
end is then brought between the legs, compressed into a narrow foalding
bundel is drawn tight and the corners a little spread in front and
tucked at the groin over and arround the part first confind about the
waist. the small robe which dose not reach the waist is their usual and
only garment commonly woarn be side that just mentioned. when the
weather is a litte warm this robe is thrown aside and the leather truss
or breech-clout constitutes the whole of their apparel. this is a much
more indecent article than the tissue of bark, and bearly covers the
mons venes, to which it is drawn so close that the whole shape is
plainly perceived. the floors of most of their houses are on a level
with the surface of the earth tho some of them are sunk two or 3 feet
beneath. the internal arrangement of their houses is the same with
those of the nations below. they are also fond of sculpture. various
figures are carved and painted on the peices which support the center
of the roof, about their doors and beads. they had large quantities of
dryed Anchovies strung on small sticks by the gills and others which
had been first dryed in this manner, were now arranged in large sheets
with strings of bark and hung suspended by poles in the roofs of their
houses; they had also an abundance of sturgeon and wappetoe; the latter
they take in great quantities from the neighbouring bonds, which are
numerous and extensive in the river bottoms and islands. the wappetoe
furnishes the principal article of traffic with these people which they
dispose of to the nations below in exchange for beads cloth and various
articles. the natives of the Sea coast and lower part of the river will
dispose of their most valuable articles to obtain this root. they have
a number of large symeters of Iron from 3 to 4 feet long which hang by
the heads of their beads; the blade of this weapon is thickest in the
center tho thin even there. all it's edges are sharp and it's greatest
width which is about 9 inches from the point is about 4 inches. the
form is thus. this is a formidable weapon. they have heavy bludgeons of
wood made in the same form nearly which I presume they used for the
same purpose before they obtained metal. we purchased a considerable
quantity of wappetoe, 12 dogs, and 2 Sea otter skins of these people.
they were very hospitable and gave us anchovies and wappetoe to eat.
notwithstanding their hospitality if it deserves that appellation, they
are great begers, for we had scarcely finished our repast on the
wappetoe and Anchovies which they voluntarily set before us before they
began to beg. we gave them some small articles as is our custom on
those occasions with which they seemed perfectly satisfyed. we gave the
1st Cheif a small medal, which he soon transfered to his wife. after
remaining at this place 2 hours we set out & continued our rout between
this island, which we now call Cath-lah-poh-tle after the nation, and
the Lard shore. at the distance of 2 miles we encamped in a small
prarie on the main shore, having traveled 19 miles by estimate. the
river rising fast. great numbers of both the large and small swans,
gees and ducks seen today. the former are very abundant in the ponds
where the wappetoe is found, they feed much on this bulb. the female of
the duck which was described yesterday is of a uniform dark brown with
some yellowish brown intermixed in small specks on the back neck and
breast. the garter snakes are innumerable, & are seen entwined arround
each other in large bundles of forty or fifty lying about in different
directions through the praries. the frogs are croaking in the swams and
marhes; their notes do not differ from those of the Atlantic States;
they are not found in the salt marshes near the entrance of the river.
heared a large hooting owl hollowing this evening. saw several of the
crested fishers and some of the large and small black-birds.
[Clark, March 29, 1806]
Saturday March 29th 1806
we Set out very early this morning and proceeded to the head of deer
island and took brackfast. the morning was very cold wind Sharp and
keen off the rainge of Mountains to the East Covered with snow. the
river is now riseing very fast and retards our progress very much as we
are compelled to keep out at Some distance in the Curent to clear the
bushes, and fallin trees and drift logs makeing out from the Shore.
dureing the time we were at Brackfast a Canoe with three Indians of the
Clan-nar-min-na-mon Nation came down, one of those men was dressed in a
Salors jacket & hat & the other two had a blanket each, those people
differ but little either in their dress manners & Language from the
Clatsops & Chinnooks they reside on Wappato Inlet which is on the S W.
side about 12 miles above our encampment of the last night and is about
2 miles from the lower point, four other Tribes also reside on the
inlet and Since which passes on the South W. Side of the Island, the
first tribe from the lower point is the Clannarminamon, on the Island,
the Clackster Nation on the main S. W. Shore. the next Cath-lah-cum-up,
Clhh-in-na-ta, Cath-lah-nah-qui-ah and at Some distance further up is a
tribe called Cath-lah-com-mah-up Those tribes all occupie Single
Villages. we proceeded on to the lower point of the Said island
accompanied by the 3 Indians, & were met by 2 canoes of nativs of the
quath-lah-pah-tal who informed us that the chanel to the N E of the
Island was the proper one. we prosued their advice and Crossed into the
mouth of the Chahwah-na-hi-ooks River which is about 200 yards wide and
a great portion of water into the columbia at this time it being high.
The indians inform us that this river is crouded with rapids after Some
distance up it. Several tribes of the Hul-lu-et-tell Nation reside on
this river. at 3 oClock P.M. we arived at the Quath lah pah tie Village
of 14 Houses on main Shore to the N E. Side of a large island. those
people in their habits manners Customs and language differ but little
from those of the Clatsops and others below. here we exchanged our deer
Skins killed yesterday for dogs, and purchased others to the Number of
12 for provisions for the party, as the deer flesh is too poore for the
Men to Subsist on and work as hard as is necessary. I also purchased a
Sea Otter robe. we purchased wappatoe and Some pashaquar roots. gave a
Medal of the Small Size to the principal Chief, and at 5 oClock
reembarked and proceeded up on the N E. of an Island to an inlet about
1 mile above the village and encamped on a butifull grassy plat, where
the nativs make a portage of their Canoes and Wappato roots to and from
a large pond at a Short dis-tance. in this pond the nativs inform us
they Collect great quantities of pappato, which the womin collect by
getting into the water, Sometimes to their necks holding by a Small
canoe and with their feet loosen the wappato or bulb of the root from
the bottom from the Fibers, and it imedeately rises to the top of the
water, they Collect & throw them into the Canoe, those deep roots are
the largest and best roots. Great numbers of the whistling Swan, Gees
and Ducks in the Ponds. Soon after we landed 3 of the nativs came up
with Wappato to Sell a part of which we purchased. they Continued but a
Short time. our men are recoverey fast. Willard quit well & Bratten
much Stronger. we made 15 miles to day only.
[Lewis, March 30, 1806]
Sunday March 30th 1806.
We got under way very early in the morning, and had not reached the
head of the island before we were met by three men of the
Clan-nah-minna-mun nation one of whom we recognized being the same who
had accompanied us yesterday, and who was very pressing in his
entreaties that we should visit his nation on the inlet S. W. of
Wappetoe island. at the distance of about 2 M. or at the head of the
quathlahpahtle island we met a party of the Claxtars and Cathlahcumups
in two canoes; soon after we were met by several canoes of the
different nations who reside on each side of the river near this place.
Wappetoe Island is about 20 miles long and from 5 to 10 in width; the
land is high and extreemly fertile and intersected in many parts with
ponds which produce great quantities of the sagittaria Sagittifolia,
the bulb of which the natives call wappetoe. there is a heavy growth of
Cottonwood, ash, the large leafed ash and sweet willow on most parts of
this island. the black alder common on the coast has now disappeared.
we passed several fishing camps on wappetoe island and at the distance
of 5 miles above quathlahpotle Island on the N. E. side we halted for
breakfast near the place we had encamped on the evening of the 4th of
November last; here we were visited by several canoes which came off
from two towns situated a little distance above us on wappetoe Island.
the 1st of these tribes about 2 miles above us call themselves
Clan-nah-quah, the other about a mile above them call themselves
Mult-no-mah. from these visiters we purchased a sturgeon and some
wappetoe and pashequa, for which we gave some small fishinghooks. these
like the natives below are great higglers in dealing. at 10 A.M. we set
out and had not proceeded far before we came to a landing place of the
natives where there were several large canoes drawn out on shore and
several natives seting in a canoe apparently waiting our arrival; they
joined the fleet and continued with us some miles. we halted a few
minutes at this landing and the Indians pointed to a village which was
situated abut 2 miles from the river behid a pond lying parallel with
it on the N. E. side nearly opposite to the Clan-nah-quah town. here
they informed us that the Sho-toes resided. here we were joined by
several other canoes of natives from the Island. most of these people
accompanyed us untill 4 in the evening when they all returned; their
principal object I beive was merely to indulge their curiossity in
looking at us. they appeared very friendly, tho most had taken the
precaution to bring with them their warlike implements. we continued
our rout along the N. E. shore of the river to the place we had halted
to dine on the 4th of Novembr opposite to the center of Immage canoe
island where the Indians stole Capt. Clarks tomahawk. here we encamped
a little before sunset in a beautifull prarie above a large pond having
traveled 23 M. I took a walk of a few miles through the prarie and an
open grove of oak timber which borders the prarie on the back part. I
saw 4 deer in the course of my walk and much appearance of both Elk and
deer. Joseph feields who was also out a little above me saw several Elk
and deer but killed none of them; they are very shye and the annual
furn which is now dry and abundant in the bottoms makes so much nois in
passing through it that it is extreemly difficult to get within reach
of the game. Fends killed and brought with him a duck. about 10 P.M. an
indian alone in a small canoe arrived at our camp, he had some
conversation with the centinel and soon departed. The natives who
inhabit this valley are larger and reather better made than those of
the coast. like those people they are fond of cold, hot, & vapor baths
of which they make frequent uce both in sickness and in health and at
all seasons of the year. they have also a very singular custom among
them of baithing themselves allover with urine every morning. The
timber and apearance of the country is much as before discribed. the up
lands are covered almost entirely with a heavy growth of fir of several
speceis like those discribed in the neighbourhood of Fort Clatsop; the
white cedar is also found hereof large size; no white pine nor pine of
any other kind. we had a view of mount St. helines and Mount Hood. the
1st is the most noble looking object of it's kind in nature. it's
figure is a regular cone. both these mountains are perfectly covered
with snow; at least the parts of them which are visible. the highlands
in this valley are rolling tho by no means too steep for cultivation
they are generally fertile of a dark rich loam and tolerably free of
stones. this valley is terminated on it's lower side by the mountanous
country which borders the coast, and above by the rainge of mountains
which pass the Columbia between the great falls and rapids of the
Columbia river. it is about 70 miles wide on a direct line and it's
length I beleive to be very extensive tho how far I cannot determine.
this valley would be copetent to the mantainance of 40 or 50 thousand
souls if properly cultivated and is indeed the only desireable
situation for a settlement which I have seen on the West side of the
Rocky mountains.
[Clark, March 30, 1806]
Sunday March 30th 1806
we got under way verry early and had not proceeded to the head of the
island before we met with the three men of the Clan-nar-min-a-mon's who
met us yesterday brackfast at the upper point of the Island we met
Several of the Clackstar and Cath-lah-cum-up in two canoes. Soon after
we were overtaken by Several Canoes of different tribes who reside on
each Side of the river the three above Tribes and the Cldh-in-na-ta
cath-lahnah-qui-up & Cath-lah-com-mah-tup reside on each Side of
Wappato inlet and back of Wappato Island which Island is formed by a
Small Chanel which passes from the Lower part of Image Canoe Island
into an inlet which makes in from the S W. Side, and receves the water
of a Creek which heads with the Kil a mox River. this wappato Island is
about 18 or 20 Miles long and in places from 6 to 10 miles wide high &
furtile with ponds on different parts of it in which the nativs geather
Wappato. nearly opposit the upper point of the Isld. behing which we
encamped last night, or on the Wappato Isld. is Several Camps of the
nativs catching Sturgion. about 5 miles Still higher up and on the N E.
Side we halted for brackfast at the place which We had encamped the 4th
of November last. here we were visited by several canoes of Indians
from two Towns a Short distance above on the Wappato Island. the 1st of
those Tribes Call themselves Clan-nah-quah and Situated about 2 miles
above us, the other about a mile above Call themselves Mult-no-mah we
purchased of those visitors a Sturgion and Some Wappato & quarmarsh
roots for which we gave Small fishing hooks. at 10 a.m. we Set out and
had not proceeded far before we came to a landing place where there was
Several large canoes hauled up, and Sitting in a canoe, appearantly
waiting our arival with a view to join the fleet indian who was then
along Side of us. this man informed he was a Shoto and that his nation
resided a little distance from the river. we landed and one of the
indians pointed to the Shoto village which is Situated back of Pond
which lies parrelal with the river on the N E. Side nearly opposit the
Clan-nah quah village. here we were also joined by Several Canoes
loaded with the natives from the Island who Continued to accompany us
untill about 4 oClock when they all returned and we proceeded on to the
place the Indians Stole my Tomahawk 4th Novr. last and Encamped in a
Small Prarie above a large Pond on N. E and opposit the Center of image
Canoe Island. capt Lewis walked out and Saw Several deer. Jo. Field
Shot at Elk he killed and brought in a fine duck. Soon after I had got
into bead an Indian came up alone in a Small Canoe. Those tribes of
Indians who inhabit this vally differ but little in either their dress,
manners, habuts and language from the Clat Sops Chinnooks, and others
on the Sea coast. they differ in a fiew words and a little in the
accent. The men are Stouter and much better formed than those of the
Sea Coast. more of their womin ware their hair braded in two tresses
and hang over each ear. in Stead of the tissue of bark worn by the
women below, they ware a kind of leather breech clout as before
described as worn by the Womin at the enterance of Lewis's river-the
width of a Common pocket Handkerchief or Something Smaller and longer.
the two Corners of this at one of the narrow ends are confined in front
just above the hips; the other Side is then brought between their legs,
Compressed into a narrow folding bundle is drawn tight, and the Corners
a little Spred in front tucked at the ends over and around the part
first confined about the Waiste. a Small roab which does not reach the
Waiste is their usial and only garment commonly worn besides this just
mentioned. when the weather is a little worm the roab is thrown aside,
and the latter truss or breach clout constitutes the whole of their
apparreal. this is a much more indesant article than the tissue of
bark, and bearly covers the Mons versus, to which it is drawn So close
that the whole Shape is plainly perseived. The Houses are Similar to
those already descrbed. they are fond of Sculpture. various figures are
carved and painted on the pieces which Support the Center of the roof
about their dotes and beads. They are well Supplied with anchoves
Sturgion and Wappato. The latter furnishes the principal article of
traffic with those Tribes which they despose of to the nativs below in
exchange for beeds, Cloath and Various articles. the nativs of the Sea
coast and lower part of this river will dispose of their most valueable
articles to obtain this root. I saw in Several houses of the Cath lah
poh tie Village large Symeters of Iron from 3 to 4 feet long which
hangs by the heads of their beads; the blade of this weapon is thickest
in the Center tho thin even there, all it's edges are Sharp and its
greatest width which is about 9 inches from the point, is about 4
inches. the form is this this is a formable weapon. they have heavy
bludgeons of wood made in the Same form nearly which I prosume they use
for the Same purpose before they obtained metal. we made 22 Miles only
to day the wind and a Strong current being against us all day, with
rain. discovered a high mountain S E. Covered with Snow which we call
Mt. Jefferson.
[Lewis, March 31, 1806]
Monday March 31st 1806
We set out early this morning and proceeded untill 8 A.M. when we
Landed on the N. side opposite one large wooden house of the Shah-ha-la
nation and took breakfast. when we decended the river in November last
there were 24 other lodges formed of Straw and covered with bark near
this house; these lodges are now distroyed and the inhabitants as the
indians inform us have returned to the great rapids of this river which
is their permanent residence; the house which remains is inhabited;
soon after we landed two canoes came over from this house with 4 men
and a woman. they informed us that their relations who were with them
last fall usuly visit them at that season for the purpose of hunting
deer and Elk and collecting wappetoe and that they had lately returned
to the rapids I presume to prepare for the fishing season as the Salmon
will begin to run shortly.--this morning we overtook the man who had
visited our camp last night he had a fine sturgeon in his canoe which
he had just taken. the Sagittaria Sagittifolia dose not grow on this
river above the Columbian valley.--These indians of the rapids
frequently visit this valley at every season of the year for the
purpose of collecting wappetoe which is abundant and appears never to
be out of season at any time of the year. at 10 A.M. we resumed our
march accompanyed by three men in a canoe; one of these fellows
appeared to be a man of some note among them; he was dressed in a
salor's jacket which was decorated in his own fassion with five rows of
large and small buttons in front and some large buttons on the pocket
flaps. they are remarkably fond of large brass buttons. these people
speak a different language from those below tho in their dress habits
manners &c they differ but little from the quathlahpohtles. their women
wear the truss as those do of all the nations residing from the
quathlahpohtles to the entrance of Lewis's river. they differ in the
manner of intering their dead. they lay them horizontally on boards and
cover them with mats, in a valt formed with boards like the roof of a
hose supported by forks and a single pole laid horizontally on those
forks. many bodies are deposited in the same valt above ground. these
are frequently laid one on the other, to the hight of three or for
corps. they deposit with them various articles of which they die
possessed, and most esteem while living. their canoes are frequently
broken up to strengthen the vault.--these people have a few words the
same with those below but the air of the language is intirely
different, insomuch, that it may be justly deemed a different language.
their women wear longer and larger robes generally, than those below;
these are most commonly made of deer skins dressed with the hair on
them. we continued our rout along the N. side of the river passed
diamond Island and whitebrant island to the lower point of a handsom
prarie opposite to the upper entrance of the Quicksand river; here we
encamped having traveled 25 miles today. a little below the upper point
of the White brant Island Seal river discharges itself on the N. side.
it is about 80 yards wide, and at present discharges a large body of
water. the water is very clear. the banks are low and near the Columbia
overflow and form several large ponds. the natives inform us that it is
of no great extent and heads in the mountains just above us. at the
distance of one mile from the entrance of this stream it forks, the two
branches being nearly of the same size. they are both obstructed with
falls and innumerable rappids, insomuch that it cannot be navigated. as
we could not learn any name of the natives for this stream we called it
Seal river from the great abundance of those animals which we saw about
it's entrance. we determined to remain at our present encampment a day
or two for the several purposes of examining quicksand river making
some Celestial observations, and procuring some meat to serve us as far
as the falls or through the Western mountains where we found the game
scarce as we decended.--the three indians who accompanied us last
evening encamped a little distance above us and visited our camp where
they remained untill 9 P.M. in the entrance of Seal river I saw a
summer duck or wood duck as they are sometimes called. this is the same
with those of our country and is the first I have seen since I entered
the rocky mountains last summer.--our hunters who had halted a little
below Seal river in consequence of the waves being too high for their
small canoe did not join us untill after dark. Drewyer who was out
below Seal river informed us that game was very scarce in that quarter,
a circumstance which we did not expect.
[Clark, March 31, 1806]
Monday March 31st 1806
we Set out this morning and proceeded untill 8 oClock when we landed on
the N. Side opposit one large House of the Shah-ha-la Nation near this
house at the time we passed on the 4th of November last was Situated 25
houses, 24 of them were built of Straw & Covered with bark as before
mentioned. those of that description are all distroyed, the one built
of wood only remains and is inhabited. we overtook the man whome came
to our Camp last night and Soon after we landed two canoes Came over
from the opposit Side with 5 men & a woman those people informed us
that their relations who was with them last fall reside at the Great
rapids, and were down with them last fall gathering Wappato which did
not grow above, and also killing deer, that they Secured the bark of
the houses which they then lived in against their return next fall.
they also inform us that their relations also visit them frequently in
the Spring to collect this root which is in great quantities on either
Side of the Columbia. at 10 A. M we proceeded on accompanied by one
Canoe and three men, one of them appeared to be a man of Some note,
dressed in a Salors jacket which had 5 rows of large & Small buttons on
it. Those people Speak a differant language from those below, with Some
fiew Words the Same, the accent entirely different. their dress and
Manners appear very Similar. the women ware the truss or breach clout
and Short robes, and men roabs only passed up on the N. Side of White
brant Island near the upper point of Which a Small river falls in about
80 yards wide and at this time discharges a great quantity of water.
the nativs inform us that this river is very Short and heads in the
range of mountains to the N E of its enterance into the Columbia the
nativs haveing no name which we could learn for this little river we
Call it Seal river from the great number of those Animals which
frequents its mouth. this river forks into two nearly equal branches
about 1 mile up and each branch is crouded with rapids & falls. we
proceed on about 2 miles above the enterance of this Seacalf river and
imedeately opposit the upper mouth of the quick Sand river we formed a
Camp in a Small Prarie on the North Side of the Columbia where we
intend to delay one or two days to make Some Selestial observations, to
examine quick sand river, and kill Some meat to last us through the
Western Mountains which Commences a fiew miles above us and runs in a
N. N. W. & S. S. E. derection. The three Indians encamped near us and
visited our fire we entered into a kind of a Conversation by signs, of
the Country and Situation of the rivers. they informed us that Seal
river headed in the mountains at no great distance. quick Sand river
was Short only headed in Mt. Hood which is in view and to which he
pointed. this is a circumstance we did not expect as we had heretofore
deemed a considerable river. Mount Hood bears East from this place and
is distant from this place about 40 miles. this information if true
will render it necessary to examine the river below on the South Side
behind the image canoe and Wappato islands for some river which must
water the Country weste of the western mountains to the Waters of
California. The Columbia is at present on a Stand and we with
dificuelty made 25 miles to day-.
[Lewis, April 1, 1806]
Tuesday April 1st 1806.
This morning early we dispatched Sergt. Pryar with two men in a small
canoe up quicksand river with orders to proceed as far as he could and
return this evening. we also sent a party of three hunters over the
river to hunt a large bottom of woodland and prarie above the entrance
of the Quicksand river; the ballance of the hunters we sent out in
different directions on this side of the Columbia and employed those
about camp in making a rope of Elkskin. the Indians who encamped near
us last evening continued with us untill about midday. they informed us
that the quicksand river which we have heretofore deemed so
considerable, only extendes through the Western mountains as far as the
S. Western side of mount hood where it takes it's source. this mountain
bears E from this place and is distant about 40 miles. this information
was corroborated by that of sundry other indians who visited us in the
course of the day. we were now convinced that there must be some other
considerable river which flowed into the columbia on it's south side
below us which we have not yet seen, as the extensive valley on that
side of the river lying between the mountainous country of the Coast
and the Western mountains must be watered by some stream which we had
heretofore supposed was the quicksand river. but if it be a fact that
the quicksand river heads in Mount Hood it must leave the valley within
a few miles of it's entrance and runs nearly parallel with the Columbia
river upwards. we indeavoured to ascertain by what stream the southern
portion of the Columbian valley was watered but could obtain no
satisfactory information of the natives on this head. they informed us
that the quicksand river is navigable a short distance only in
consequence of falls and rapids; and that no nation inhabits it.-
Sergt. Pryar returned in the evening and reported that he had ascended
the river six miles; that above the point at which it divides itself
into two channels it is about 300 yds wide tho the channel is not more
than 50 yds and only 6 ft deep. this is a large vollume of water to
collect in so short a distance; I therefore think it probable that
there are some large creeks falling into it from the S. W. the bed of
this stream is formed entirely of quicksand; it's banks are low and at
preasent overflows. the water is turbid and current rapid.the following
are the courses taken by Sergt. Pryor. S. 10° W. 1 M. to a point on the
Lard. side passing a large Island on Stard. S. 24° E. 2 m. to the head of
an Island near the Lard. shore. S 33° E. 4 m. to a stard. point passing
several islands on the Lard. side and a creek 50 yds. wide on Stard at
11/2 miles. the river from hence appeared to bend to the East. he heard
falls of water. several different tribes informed us that it heads at
Mount Hood. We were visited by several canoes of natives in the course
of the day; most of whom were decending the river with their women and
children. they informed us that they resided at the great rapids and
that their relations at that place were much streightened at that place
for the want of food; that they had consumed their winter store of
dryed fish and that those of the present season had not yet arrived. I
could not learn wheather they took the Sturgeon but presume if they do
it is in but small quantities as they complained much of the scarcity
of food among them. they informed us that the nations above them were
in the same situation & that they did not expect the Salmon to arrive
untill the full of the next moon which happens on the 2d of May. we did
not doubt the varacity of these people who seemed to be on their way
with their families and effects in surch of subsistence which they find
it easy to procure in this fertile valley.--This information gave us
much uneasiness with rispect to our future means of subsistence. above
falls or through the plains from thence to the Chopunnish there are no
deer Antelope nor Elk on which we can depend for subsistence; their
horses are very poor most probably at this season, and if they have no
fish their dogs must be in the same situation. under these
circumstances there seems to be but a gloomy prospect for subsistence
on any terms; we therefore took it into serious consideration what
measures we were to pursue on this occasion; it was at once deemed
inexpedient to wait the arrival of the salmon as that would detain us
so large a portion of the season that it is probable we should not
reach the United States before the ice would close the Missouri; or at
all events would hazard our horses which we lelft in charge of the
Chopunnish who informed us that they intended passing the rocky
mountains to the Missouri as early as the season would permit them wich
is as we believe about the begining of May. should these people leave
their situation near kooskooske before our arrival we may probably find
much difficulty in recovering our horses; without which there will be
but little possibility of repassing the mountains; we are therefore
determined to loose as little time as possible in geting to the
Chopunnish Village. at 3 P.M. the hunters who were sent over the river
returned having killed 4 Elk and two deer; the Elk were in good order
but the deer extreemly poor. they informed us that game is very plenty
in that quarter. the hunters on this side of the river also returned
but had killed nothing; they saw a few Elk and deer. there was also
much sign of the black bear seen on the other side of the river. we
sent a party to bring in the flesh of the Elk and deer that were
killed. they did not return this evening. I purchased a canoe from an
Indian today for which I gave him six fathoms of wampum beads; he
seemed satisfyed with his bargain and departed in another canoe but
shortly after returned and canceled the bargain; took his canoe and
returned the beads. this is frequently the case in their method of
traiding and is deemed fair by them. The last evening and this morning
were so cloudy that I could neither obtain any Lunar observations nor
equal altitudes.-
[Clark, April 1, 1806]
Tuesday April 1st 1806
This morning early we dispatched Sergt. Pryor, with two men in a Small
canoe up quick sand river with orders to proceed as far as he Could and
return this evening. we also Sent a party of three hunters over the
river to hunt a large bottom of woodland and prarie above the enterance
of Q. Sand River; the ballance of the hunters we Sent out in different
directions on this Side of the Columbia, and employed those about Camp
in makeing a rope of Elk Skin.
The information given by the indians to us last night respecting quick
Sand river was corrobarated by Sundery other indians who visited us in
the Course of this day. we were now convinced that if there information
be just; that Some Considerable river which flowed into the Columbia on
it's South Side below us which we have not yet Seen, as the extensive
vally on that Side of the river lying between the mountanious Country
of the Coast, and the western mountains must be watered by Some Stream,
which we had heretofore Supposed was the quick Sand river. but if it be
a fact that Quick Sand river heads in Mount Hood it must leave the
vally within a fiew miles of it's enterance, and runs nearly parrilal
with the Columbia River upwards. we indeavered to assertained by what
Stream the South portion of the Columbian Vally was watered, but could
obtain no Satisfactory information of the waters on this head. they
inform us that the quick Sand river is not naviagable any distance in
consequence of falls and rapids; and that no nation inhabit it. Sergt.
Pryor returned in the evening and reported that he had assended the
river Six Miles; that above the point which it divides itself into two
Chanels, it is about 300 yards wide tho the Chanel is not more than 50
yards, and only 6 feet deep. the other part of the river from 2 to 4
inches water, the bead of this river is formed entirely of quick Sand;
its banks are low and at present overflown. the water is turbed and
current rapid.--The following are the Courses taken by Sergt. Pryor.-
"S. 10° W. 1 mile to a point on the Lard. Side passing a large island on
Stard Side. S 24° E. 2 m. to the head of the island near the Lard Shore.
S 33° E 4 m. to a Stard. point passing Several islands on the Lard Side
and a Creek 50 yards wide on the Stard. Side at 11/2 miles. the river
from hence upwards bend to the East. a fall of water heard at no great
distance up this river." Several diffirent tribes of indians inform us
that it heads at Mount Hood which is in view.
We were visited by Several Canoes of the nativs in the Course of this
day; most of whome were decending the river with their womin and
children. they inform us that they reside at the great rapids and that
their relations at that place were much Streightened for the want of
food; that they had consumed their winter Store of dryed fish and those
of the present Season had not yet arived. I could not lern whether they
took Sturgion but prosume if they do it is in but Small quantities as
they complain much of the Scercity of food among them, they informed us
that the nativs above them were in the Same Situation, and that they
did not expect the Salmon to arrive untill the full of the next moon
which happens on the 2nd of May. we did not doubt the veracity of those
people who Seamed to be on their way with their families and effects in
serch of Subsistence which they find it easy to precure in this fertile
Vally-. This information givs us much uneasiness with respect to our
future means of Subsistence, above the falls, on through the Plains
from thence to the Chopunnish there are no Deer Antilopes or Elk on
which we could depend for Subsistence; their horses are very poor most
probably at this Season, and if they have no fish their dogs must be in
the Same Situation. under these circumstances there Seams to be a
gloomey prospect for Subsistence on any terms; we therefore took it
into Serious Consideration what measure we were to pursue on this
Occasion; it was at once deemed inexpedient to waite the arival of the
Salmon as that would detain us So long a portion of the Season that it
is probable we Should not reach the U States before the ice would close
the Missouri; or at all events would hazard our horses which we left in
charge of the Chopunnish who informed us that they intended passing the
Rocky Mountains to the Missouri as early as the Season would permit
them which is about the first of May. Should these people leave their
Situation near Kooskooske before our arival we may probably find much
dificulty in recovering our horses; without which there will be but
little possibility of repassing the Mountains; we are therefore
determined to lose as little time as possible in getting to the Cho
punnish Village.
at 3 P.M. the hunters who were Sent over the river returned, haveing
Killed 4 Elk and 2 Deer; the Elk were in good order but the deer
extreemly poor. they informed us that game is very plenty in that
quarter. the hunters on this Side of the river also returned but had
killed nothing; they Saw a fiew Elk and Deer. there were also much Sign
of the black bear Seen on the other Side of the river. we Sent a party
to bring in the flesh of the Elk and Deer that were killed. they did
not return this evening. We purchased a Canoe from an Indian today for
Six fathoms of white wampom; he Seemed Satisfied with his bargin and
departed in another Canoe but Shortly after returned and canseled the
bargain, took his canoe and returned the beeds. this is frequently the
case in their method of tradeing and is deemed fair by them. The last
evening and this morning were So cloudy that we could neither obtain
any Lunar observations nor equal altitudes
[Lewis, April 2, 1806]
Wednesday April 2ed 1806.
This morning we came to a resolution to remain at our present
encampment or some where in this neighbourhood untill we had obtained
as much dryed meat as would be necessary for our voyage as far as the
Chopunnish. to exchange our perogues for canoes with the natives on our
way to the great falls of the columbia or purchase such canoes from
them for Elkskins and Merchandize as would answer our purposes. these
canoes we intend exchanging with the natives of the plains for horses
as we proceed untill we obtain as many as will enable us to travel
altogether by land. at some convenient point, perhaps at the entrence
of the S. E. branch of the Columbia, we purpose sending a party of four
or five men a head to collect our horses that they may be in readiness
for us by our arrival at the Chopunnish; calculating by thus acquiring
a large stock of horses we shall not only sucure the means of
transporting our baggage over the mountains but that we will also have
provided the means of subsisting; for we now view the horses as our
only certain resource for food, nor do we look forward to it with any
detestation or borrow, so soon is the mind which is occupyed with any
interesting object reconciled to it's situation. The men who were sent
in quest of the Elk and deer that were killed yesterday returned at 8
A.M. this morning. we now enformed the party of our intention of laying
in a store of meat at this place, and immediately dispatched two
parteis consisting of nine men to the opposite side of the river. five
of those we sent below the Quicksand river and 4 above. we also sent
out three others on this side, and those who remained in camp were
employed in collecting wood making a scaffoald and cuting up the meat
in order to dry it. about this time several canoes of the natives
arrived at our camp and among others one from below which had on board
eight men of the Shah-ha-la nation these men informed us that 2 young
men whom they pointed out were Cash-hooks and resided at the falls of a
large river which discharges itself into the Columbia on it's South
side some miles below us. we readily prevailed on them to give us a
sketch of this river which they drew on a mat with a coal. it appeared
that this river which they called Mult-no-mah discharged itself behind
the Island which we called the image canoe Island and as we had left
this island to the S. both in ascending and decending the river we had
never seen it. they informed us that it was a large river and run a
considerable distance to the South between the mountains. Capt. Clark
determined to return and examine this river accordingly he took a party
of seven men and one of the perogues and set out 1/2 after 11 A.M., he
hired one of the Cashhooks, for a birning glass, to pilot him to the
entrance of the Multnomah river and took him on board with him. in
their manners dress language and stature these people are the same with
the quathlahpohtle nation and others residing in the neighbourhood of
wappetoe Island. near the entrance of multnomah river a considerable
nation resides on the lower side of that stream by the same name. as
many as ten canoes with natives arrived at our camp in the course of
the day; most of them were families of men women and children decencing
the river. they all gave the same account of the scarcity of provision
above. I shot my air gun, with which they were much astonished. one
family consisting of ten or twelve persons remained near us all night.
they conducted themselves in a very orderly manner. the three hunters
on this side of the river returned in the evening they had killed two
deer, tho they were so poor and at such a distance from camp that they
brought in their skins only. the night and morning being cloudy I was
again disappointed in making the observations I wished.
Fir is the common growth of the uplands, as is the cottonwood, ash;
large leafed ash and sweet willow that of the bottom lands. the
huckleburry, shallon, and the several evergreen shrubs of that speceis
which bear burries have seased to appear except that speceis which has
the leaf with a prickly margin. among the plants of this prarie in
which we are encamped I observe the passhequo, Shannetahque, and
compound firn the roots of which the natives eat; also the water cress,
strawburry, flowering pea not yet in blume, the sinquefoil, narrow
dock, sand rush which are luxuriant and abundant in the river bottoms;
a speceis of the bearsclaw of which I preserved a specemine it is in
blume. the large leafed thorn has also disappeared. the red flowering
currant is found here in considerable quantities on the uplands. the
hunters inform me that there are extensive praries on the highlands a
few miles back from the river on this side. the land is very fertile.
[Clark, April 2, 1806]
Wednesday April 2nd 1806
This morning we came to a resolution to remain at our present
encampment or Some where in this neighbourhood untill we had obtained
as much dried meat as would be necessary for our voyage as far as the
Chopunnish. to exchange our large Canoes for Small ones with the nativs
on our way to the great Falls of the Columbia or purchase Such canoes
from them for Elk skins and Merchindize as would answer our purposes.
these canoes we intend exchangeing with the nativs of the Plains for
horses as we proceed untill we obtain as maney as will enable us to
travel altogether by land. at Some convenient point, perhaps at the
enterance of Lewis's River we intend Sending a party of 4 or 5 men
ahead to Collect our horses that they may be in readiness for us by our
arrival at the Chopunnish; Calculating by thus acquireing a large Stock
of horses we shall not only Secure the means of transporting our
baggage over the Mountains, but that we also have provided the means of
Subsisting; for we now view the horses as our only Certain resource for
food, nor do we look foward to it with any detestation or horrow, So
Soon is the Mind which is occupied with any interesting object,
reconsiled to it's Situation. The men who went in quest of the Elk and
Deer which were killed yesterday returned at 8 A.M. this morning. we
now informed the party of our intention of laying in a Store of meat at
this place, and imediately dispatched two parties Consisting of nine
men to the opposit Side of the river. 5 of them below and 4 above quick
Sand River. we also Sent out 3 others on this Side, and those who
remained in Camp were employd in Collecting wood makeing a Scaffold and
Cutting up the meat in order to dry it. about this time Several Canoes
of the nativs arived at our Camp among others two from below with Eight
men of the Shah-ha-la Nation those men informed us that they reside on
the opposit Side of the Columbia near Some pine trees which they
pointed to in the bottom South of the Dimond Island, they Singled out
two young men whome they informed us lived at the Falls of a large
river which discharges itself into the Columbia on it's South Side Some
Miles below us. we readily provailed on them to give us a Sketch of
this river which they drew on a Mat with a coal, it appeared that this
river which they Call Mult-no'-mah discharged itself behind the Island
we call the image Canoe island, and as we had left this Island to the
South both in decending & assending the river we had never Seen it.
they informed us that it was a large river and runs a Considerable
distance to the South between the Mountains. I deturmined to take a
Small party and return to this river and examine its Size and Collect
as much information of the nativs on it or near its enterance into the
Columbia of its extent, the Country which it waters and the nativs who
inhabit its banks &c. I took with me Six Men. Thompson J. Potts, Peter
Crusat, P. Wiser, T. P. Howard, Jos. Whitehouse & my man York in a
large Canoe, with an Indian whome I hired for a Sun glass to accompany
me as a pilot. at half past 11 A.M. I Set out, and had not proceeded
far eer I saw 4 large Canoes at Some distance above decending and
bending their Course towards our Camp which at this time is very weak
Capt. Lewis haveing only 10 men with him. I hisitated for a moment
whether it would not be advisable for me to return and delay untill a
part of our hunters Should return to add more Strength to our Camp. but
on a Second reflection and reverting to the precautions always taken by
my friend Capt Lewis on those occasions banished all apprehensions and
I proceeded on down. at 8 miles passed a village on the South side at
this place my Pilot informed me he resided and that the name of his
tribe is Ne-cha-co-lee, this village is back or to the South of Dimond
island, and as we passed on the North Side of the island both decending
& assending did not See or know of this Village. I proceeded on without
landing at this village. at 3 P.M. I landed at a large double house of
the Ne-er-choki-oo tribe of the Shah-ha-la Nation. at this place we had
Seen 24 aditional Straw Huts as we passed down last fall and whome as I
have before mentioned reside at the Great rapids of the Columbia. on
the bank at different places I observed Small Canoes which the women
make use of to gather Wappato & roots in the Slashes. those Canoes are
from 10 to 14 feet long and from 18 to 23 inches wide in the widest
part tapering from the center to both ends in this form and about 9
inches deep and So light that a woman may with one hand haul them with
ease, and they are Sufficient to Carry a woman an Some loading. I think
100 of those canoes were piled up and Scattered in different directions
about in the Woods in the vecinity of this house, the pilot informed me
that those Canoes were the property of the inhabitents of the Grand
rapids who used them ocasionally to gather roots. I entered one of the
rooms of this house and offered Several articles to the nativs in
exchange for Wappato. they were Sulkey and they positively refused to
Sell any. I had a Small pece of port fire match in my pocket, off of
which I cut a pece one inch in length & put it into the fire and took
out my pocket Compas and Set myself doun on a mat on one Side of the
fire, and a magnet which was in the top of my ink Stand the port fire
cought and burned vehemently, which changed the Colour of the fire;
with the Magnit I turned the Needle of the Compas about very briskly;
which astonished and alarmed these nativs and they laid Several parsles
of Wappato at my feet, & begged of me to take out the bad fire; to this
I consented; at this moment the match being exhausted was of course
extinguished and I put up the magnet &c. this measure alarmed them So
much that the womin and children took Shelter in their beads and behind
the men, all this time a very old blind man was Speaking with great
vehemunce, appearently imploreing his gode. I lit my pipe and gave them
Smoke & gave the womin the full amount of the roots which they had put
at my feet. they appeared Somewhat passified and I left them and
proceeded on on the South Side of Image Canoe Island which I found to
be two Islands hid from the opposit Side by one near the Center of the
river. the lower point of the upper and the upper point of the lower
cannot be Seen from the North Side of the Columbia on which we had
passed both decending and ascending and had not observed the apperture
between those islands. at the distance of 13 Miles below the last
village and at the place I had Supposed was the lower point of the
image Canoe island, I entered this river which the nativs had informed
us of, Called Mult no mah River so called by the nativs from a Nation
who reside on Wappato Island a little below the enterance of this
river. Multnomah discharges itself in the Columbia on the S. E. and may
be justly Said to be 1/4 the Size of that noble river. Multnomah had
fallen 18 inches from it's greatest annual height. three Small Islands
are situated in it's mouth which hides the river from view from the
Columbia from the enterance of this river, I can plainly See Mt.
Jefferson which is high and Covered with snow S. E. Mt. Hood East, Mt
St. Helians a high humped Mountain to the East of Mt St. Helians. I
also Saw the Mt. Raneer Nearly North. Soon after I arived at this river
an old man passed down of the Clark a'mos Nation who are noumerous and
reside on a branch of this river which receives it's waters from
Mt.,Jefferson which is emensely high and discharges itself into this
river one day and a half up, this distance I State at 40 Miles. This
nation inhabits 11 Villages their Dress and language is very Similar to
the Quath-lah-poh-tle and other tribes on Wappato Island.
The Current of the Multnomar is as jentle as that of the Columbia
glides Smoothly with an eavin surface, and appears to be Sufficiently
deep for the largest Ship. I attempted fathom it with a Cord of 5
fathom which was the only Cord I had, could not find bottom 1/3 of the
distance across. I proceeded up this river 10 miles from it's enterance
into the Columbia to a large house on the N E. Side and Encamped near
the house, the flees being So noumerous in the house that we could not
Sleep in it. this is the house of the Cush-hooks Nation who reside at
the falls of this river which the pilot informs me they make use of
when they Come down to the Vally to gather Wappato. he also informs me
that a number of other Smaller houses are Situated on two Bayous which
make out on the S. E. Side a little below the house. this house appears
to have been laterly abandoned by its inhabitants in which they had
left Sundery articles Such as Small Canoes mats, bladdles of Oil and
baskits bowls & trenchers. and as my pilot informed me was gorn up this
to the falls to fish which is 2 days or 60 miles up. this house is 30
feet wide & presisely 40 feet long. built in the usial form of broad
boads Covered with bark.
The course and distance assending the Molt no mar R from it's enterance
into the Columbia at the lower point of the 3rd Image Canoe island. viz.
S. 30°W. 2 Miles to the upper point of a Small island in the Middle of
Moltnomar river. thence
S. 10° W. 3 miles to a Sluce 80 yards wide which devides Wappato Island
from the Main Stard. Side Shore passing a Willow point on the Lard.
Side.
S. 60° E. 3 miles to a large Indian house on the Lard Side below Some
high pine land. high bold Shore on the Starboard Side. thence