[Clark, August 26, 1805]
August 26th Monday 1805
a fine morning Despatched three men a head to hunt, our horses missing
Sent out my guide and four men to hunt them, which detained me untill 9
oClock a.m. at which time I Set out and proceeded on by the way of the
forks to the Indian Camps at the first were not one mouthfull to eate
untill night as our hunters could kill nothing and I could See & catch
no fish except a few Small ones. The Indians gave us 2 Sammon boiled
which I gave to the men, one of my men Shot a Sammon in the river about
Sunset those fish gave us a Supper. all the Camp flocked about me
untill I went to Sleep--and I beleve if they had a Sufficency to eate
themselves and any to Spare they would be liberal of it I derected the
men to mend their Mockessons to night and turn out in the morning early
to hunt Deer fish birds &c. &c. Saw great numbers of the large Black
grass hopper. Some bars which were verry wild, but few Birds. a number
of ground Lizards; Some fiew Pigions
[Clark, August 27, 1805]
August 27th Tuesday 1805
Some frost this morning every Man except one, out hunting, a young man
Came from the upper Village & informed me that Capt Lewis would join me
abt. 12 oClock to day. one man killed a Small Sammon, and the Indians
gave me another which afforded us a Sleight brackfast. Those Pore
people are here depending on what fish They Can Catch, without anything
else to depend on; and appere Contented, my party hourly Complaining of
their retched Situation and doubts of Starveing in a Countrey where no
game of any kind except a fiew fish can be found, an Indian brough in
to the Camp 5 Sammon, two of which I purchased which afforded us a
Supper.
[Clark, August 28, 1805]
August 28th Wednesday 1805
a frost this morning. The Inds. Cought out of their traps Several
Sammon and gave us two, I purchased two others which we made last us to
day. Several a Camp of about 40 Indians came from the West fork and
passed up to day, nothing killed by my party with every exertion in all
places where game probably might be found. I dispatched one man to the
upper camps to enquire if Cap. Lewis was comeing &c. he returned after
night with a letter from Capt. Lewis informing me of his Situation at
the upper Village, and had precured 22 horses for our rout through by
land on the plan which I had preposed in which he agreed with me in;
and requsted me to ride up and get the horses the Indian informed him
they had reserved for me &c. I purchased Some fish roe of those pore
but kind people with whome I am Encamped for which I gave three Small
fish hooks, the use of which they readily proseved, one Indian out all
day & killed only one Sammon with his gig; my hunters killed nothing, I
had three pack Saddles made to day for our horses which I expected Capt
Lewis would purchase &c. Those Sammon which I live on at present are
pleasent eateing, not with standing they weaken me verry fast and my
flesh I find is declineing
[Clark, August 29, 1805]
August 29th Thursday 1805
a Cold morning Some frost. the Wind from the South, I left our baggage
in possession of 2 men and proceeded on up to join Capt Lewis at the
upper Village of Snake Indians where I arrived at 1 oClock found him
much engaged in Counceling and attempting to purchase a fiew more
horses. I Spoke to the Indians on various Subjects endeavoring to
impress on theire minds the advantaje it would be to them for to Sell
us horses and expedite the our journey the nearest and best way
possibly that we might return as Soon as possible and winter with them
at Some place where there was plenty of buffalow,--our wish is to get a
horse for each man to Carry our baggage and for Some of the men to ride
occasionally, The horses are handsom and much acustomed to be changed
as to their Parsture; we cannot Calculate on their carrying large loads
& feed on the Grass which we may Calculate on finding in the Mountain
Thro which we may expect to pass on our rout made Some Selestial
observations, the Lard. of this Part the Columbia River is ____ North.
Longtd. ____ W
I purchased a horse for which I gave my Pistol 100 Balls Powder & a
Knife. our hunters Killed 2 Deer near their Camp to day. 2 yesterday &
3 The Day before, this meet was a great treat to me as I had eate none
for 8 days past
[Clark, August 30, 1805]
August 30th Friday 1805
a fine Morning, finding that we Could purchase no more horse than we
had for our goods &c. (and those not a Sufficint number for each of our
Party to have one which is our wish) I Gave my Fuzee to one of the men
& Sold his musket for a horse which Completed us to 29 total horses, we
Purchased pack Cords Made Saddles & Set out on our rout down the river
by land guided by my old guide one other who joined him, the old gude's
3 Sons followed him before we Set out our hunters killed three Deer
proceded on 12 miles and encamped on the river South Side--at the time
we Set out from the Indian Camps the greater Part of the Band Set out
over to the waters of the Missouri. we had great attention paid to the
horses, as they were nearly all Sore Backs and Several pore, & young
Those horses are indifferent, maney Sore backs and others not acustomed
to pack, and as we Cannot put large loads on them are Compelled to
purchase as maney as we Can to take our Small propotion of baggage of
the Parties. (& Eate if necessary) Proceeded on 12 miles to day
[Clark, August 31, 1805]
August 31st 1805 Satturday
A fine morning Set out before Sun rise, as we passed the lodges at
which place I had encamped for thre nights and left 2 men, Those 2 men
joined us and we proceeded on in the Same rout I decended the 21st
Instant, halted 3 hours on Sammon Creek to Let our horses graze the
wind hard from the S. W. I met an Indian on horse back who fled with
great Speed to Some lodges below & informed them that the Enemis were
Coming down, armd with guns &c. the inhabitents of the Lodges
indisceved him, we proceeded on the road on which I had decended as far
as the 1st run below & left the road & Proceeded up the Run in a
tolerable road 4 miles & Encamped in Some old lodjes at the place the
road leaves the Creek and assends the high Countrey Six Indians
followed us four of them the Sons of our guide; our hunters killed one
Deer a goose & Prarie fowl. This day warm and Sultrey, Praries or open
Valies on fire in Several places--The Countrey is Set on fire for the
purpose of Collecting the different bands, and a Band of the Flatheads
to go to the Missouri where They intend passing the winter near the
Buffalow Proceeded on 22 miles to Day, 4 miles of which up a run
[Clark, September 1, 1805]
September 1st Sunday 1805
a fine morning Set out early and proceeded on over high ruged hills
passing the heads of the Small runs which fall into the river on our
left to a large Creek which falls into the river 6 miles to our left
and encamped in the bottom, Some rain to day at 12 and in the evening
which obliges us to Continu all night despatched 2 men to the mouth of
the Creek to purchase fish of the Indians at that place, They returned
with Some dried, we giged 4 Sammon & killed one Deer to Day. the
Countrey which we passed to day is well watered & broken Pore Stoney
hilly country except the bottoms of the Creek which is narrow, all the
Indians leave us except our Guide, one man Shot two bear this evining
unfortunately we Could git neither of them
[Clark, September 2, 1805]
September 2nd Monday 1805
a Cloudy Mornin, raind Some last night we Set out early and proceeded
on up the Creek, Crossed a large fork from the right and one from the
left; and at 8 miles left the roade on which we were pursuing and which
leads over to the Missouri; and proceeded up a West fork without a
roade proceded on thro thickets in which we were obliged to Cut a road,
over rockey hill Sides where our horses were in pitial danger of
Slipping to Ther certain distruction & up & Down Steep hills, where
Several horses fell, Some turned over, and others Sliped down Steep
hill Sides, one horse Crippeled & 2 gave out. with the greatest
dificuelty risque &c. we made five miles & Encamped on The left Side of
the Creek in a Small Stoney bottom after night Some time before the
rear Came up, one Load left, about 2 miles back, the horse on which it
was Carried Crippled. Some rain at night
[Clark, September 3, 1805]
September 3rd Tuesday 1805
A Cloudy morning, horses verry Stiff Sent 2 men back with the horse on
which Capt Lewis rode for the load left back last night which detained
us until) 8 oClock at which time we Set out. The Country is timbered
with Pine Generally the bottoms have a variety of Srubs & the fur trees
in Great abundance. hills high & rockey on each Side, in the after part
of the day the high mountains closed the Creek on each Side and obliged
us to take on the Steep Sides of those Mountains, So Steep that the
horses Could Screcly keep from Slipping down, Several Sliped & Injured
themselves verry much, with great dificuelty we made ____ miles &
Encamped on a branh of the Creek we assended after Crossing Several
Steep points & one mountain, but little to eate I killed 5 Pheasents &
The huntes 4 with a little Corn afforded us a kind of Supper, at dusk
it began to Snow at 3 oClock Some rain. The mountains to the East
Covered with Snow. we met with a great misfortune, in haveing our last
Thmometer broken by accident, This day we passed over emence hils and
Some of the worst roade that ever horses passed our horses frequently
fell Snow about 2 inches deep when it began to rain which termonated in
a Sleet our genl. Courses nearly North from the R
[Clark, September 4, 1805]
September 4th Wednesday 1805
a verry cold morning every thing wet and frosed, we detained untill 8
oClock to thaw the covering for the baggage &c. &c. groun covered with
Snow, we assended a mountain & took a Divideing ridge which we kept for
Several Miles & fell on the head of a Creek which appeared to run the
Course we wished to go, I was in front, & Saw Several of the Argalia or
Ibex decended the mountain by verry Steep decent takeing the advantage
of the points and best places to the Creek, where our hunter killed a
Deer which we made use of and prosued our Course down the Creek to the
forks about 5 miles where we met a part of the Flat head nation of 33
Lodges about 80 men 400 Total and at least 500 horses, those people
recved us friendly, threw white robes over our Sholders & Smoked in the
pipes of peace, we Encamped with them & found them friendly but nothing
but berries to eate a part of which they gave us, those Indians are
well dressed with Skin Shirts & robes, they Stout & light complected
more So than Common for Indians, The Chiefs harangued untill late at
night, Smoked our pipe and appeared Satisfied. I was the first white
man who ever wer on the waters of this river.
[Clark, September 5, 1805]
September 5th Thursday 1805
a Cloudy morning we assembled the Chiefs & warriers and Spoke to them
(with much dificuely as what we Said had to pass through Several
languajes before it got in to theirs, which is a gugling kind of
languaje Spoken much thro the fhrought) we informed them who we were,
where we Came from, where bound and for what purpose &c. &c. and
requsted to purchase & exchange a fiew horses with them, in the Course
of the day I purchased 11 horses & exchanged 7 for which we gave a fiew
articles of merchendize. those people possess ellegant horses.--we made
4 Chiefs whome we gave meadels & a few Small articles with Tobacco; the
women brought us a few berries & roots to eate and the Principal Chief
a Dressed Brarow, otter & two Goat & antilope Skins
Those people wore their hair the men Cewed with otter Skin on each Side
falling over the Sholrs forward, the women loose promisquisly over ther
Sholdrs & face long Shirts which Coms to the anckles & tied with a belt
about their waste with a roabe over, the have but fiew ornaments and
what they do were are Similar to the Snake Indians, They Call
themselves Eoote-lash-Schute and consist of 450 Lodges in all and
divided into Several bands on the heads of Columbia river & Missouri,
Some low down the Columbia River
[Clark, September 6, 1805]
September 6th Friday 1805
Some little rain, purchased two fine horses & took a Vocabiliary of the
language litened our loads & packed up, rained contd. Untill 12 oClock
we Set out at 2 oClock at the Same time all the Indians Set out on Ther
way to meet the Snake Indians at the 3 forks of the Missouri. Crossed a
Small river from the right we call ____ Soon after Setting out, also a
Small Creek from the North all three forks Comeing together below our
Camp at which place the Mountains Close on each Side of the river, We
proceeded on N 30 W. Crossed a Mountain and Struck the river Several
miles down, at which place the Indians had Encamped two days before, we
Proceeded on Down the River which is 30 yds. wide Shallow & Stoney.
Crossing it Several times & Encamped in a Small bottom on the right
side. rained this evening nothing to eate but berries, our flour out,
and but little Corn, the hunters killed 2 pheasents only--all our
horses purchased of the oote lash Shutes we Secured well for fear of
their leaveing of us, and watched them all night for fear of their
leaving us or the Indians prosuing & Steeling them.
[Clark, September 7, 1805]
September 7th Satturday 1805
A Cloudy & rainie Day the greater Part of the Day dark & Drisley we
proceedd on down the river thro a Vallie passed Several Small Runs on
the right & 3 creeks on the left The Vallie from 1 to 2 miles wide the
Snow top mountains to our left, open hilley Countrey on the right. Saw
2 horses left by the Indians Those horses were as wild a Elk. One of
our hunters Came up this morning without his horse, in the course of
the night the horse broke loose & Cleared out--we did not make Camp
untill dark, for the want of a good place, one of our hunters did not
join us this evening. he haveing killed an elk packed his horses &
could not overtake us
[Clark, September 8, 1805]
September 8th Sunday 1805
a Cloudy morning Set out early and proceeded on through an open vallie
for 23 miles passed 4 Creeks on the right Some runs on the left, The
bottoms as also the hills Stoney bad land. Some pine on the Creeks and
mountains, an partial on the hills to the right hand Side. two of our
hunters came up with us at 12 oClock with an Elk, & Buck--the wind from
the N. W. & Cold. The foot of the Snow mountains approach the River on
the left Side. Some Snow on The mountain to the right also proceeded on
down the Vallie which is pore Stoney land and encamped on the right
Side of the river a hard rain all the evening we are all Cold and wet.
on this part of the river on the head of Clarks River I observe great
quantities of a peculiar Sort of Prickly peare grow in Clusters ovel &
about the Size of a Pigions egge with Strong Thorns which is So birded
as to draw the Pear from the Cluster after penetrateing our feet.
Drewyer killed a Deer. I killed a prarie fowl we found 2 mears and a
Colt the mears were lame, we ventered to let our late purchase of
horses loose to night
[Lewis, September 9, 1805]
Monday September 9th 1805.
Set out at 7 A M. this morning and proceeded down the Flathead river
leaving it on our left, the country in the valley of this river is
generally a prarie and from five to 6 miles wide the growth is almost
altogether pine principally of the longleafed kind, with some spruce
and a kind of furr resembleing the scotch furr. near the wartercourses
we find a small proportion of the narrow leafed cottonwood some redwood
honeysuckle and rosebushes form the scant proportion of underbrush to
be seen. at 12 we halted on a small branch which falls in to the river
on the E. side, where we breakfasted on a scant proportion of meat
which we had reserved from the hunt of yesterday added to three geese
which one of our hunters killed this morning. two of our hunters have
arrived, one of them brought with him a redheaded woodpecker of the
large kind common to the U States. this is the first of the kind I have
seen since I left the Illinois. just as we were seting out Drewyer
arrived with two deer. we continued our rout down the valley about 4
miles and crossed the river; it is hear a handsome stream about 100
yards wide and affords a considerable quantity of very clear water, the
banks are low and it's bed entirely gravel. the stream appears
navigable, but from the circumstance of their being no sammon in it I
believe that there must be a considerable fall in it below. our guide
could not inform us where this river discharged itself into the
columbia river, he informed us that it continues it's course along the
mountains to the N. as far as he knew it and that not very distant from
where we then were it formed a junction with a stream nearly as large
as itself which took it's rise in the mountains near the Missouri to
the East of us and passed through an extensive valley generally open
prarie which forms an excellent pass to the Missouri. the point of the
Missouri where this Indian pass intersects it, is about 30 miles above
the gates of the rocky mountain, or the place where the valley of the
Missouri first widens into an extensive plain after entering the rockey
mountains. the guide informed us that a man might pass to the missouri
from hence by that rout in four days. we continued our rout down the W.
side of the river about 5 miles further and encamped on a large creek
which falls in on the West as our guide informes that we should leave
the river at this place and the weather appearing settled and fair I
determined to halt the next day rest our horses and take some
scelestial Observations. we called this Creek Travellers rest. it is
about 20 yards wide a fine bould clear runing stream the land through
which we passed is but indifferent a could white gravley soil. we
estimate our journey of this day at 19 M.
[Clark, September 9, 1805]
September 9th Monday 1805
a fair morning Set out early and proceeded on thro a plain as yesterday
down the valley Crossed a large Scattering Creek on which Cotton trees
grew at 11/2 miles, a Small one at 10 miles, both from the right, the
main river at 15 miles & Encamped on a large Creek from the left which
we call Travelers rest Creek. killed 4 deer & 4 Ducks & 3 prarie fowls.
day fair Wind N. W. See Suplement
[Lewis, September 10, 1805]
Tuesday September 10th 1805.
The morning being fair I sent out all the hunters, and directed two of
them to procede down the river as far as it's junction with the Eastern
fork which heads near the missouri, and return this evening. this fork
of the river we determined to name the Valley plain river. I think it
most probable that this river continues it's course along the rocky
Mts. Northwardly as far or perhaps beyond the scources of Medecine
river and then turning to the West falls into the Tacootchetessee. The
Minetares informed us that there was a large river west of, and at no
great distance from the sources of Medecine river, which passed along
the Rocky Mountains from S. to N.this evening one of our hunters
returned accompanyed by three men of the Flathead nation whom he had
met in his excurtion up travellers rest Creek. on first meeting him the
Indians were allarmed and prepared for battle with their bows and
arrows, but he soon relieved their fears by laying down his gun and
advancing towards them. the Indians were mounted on very fine horses of
which the Flatheads have a great abundance; that is, each man in the
nation possesses from 20 to a hundred head. our guide could not speake
the language of these people but soon engaged them in conversation by
signs or jesticulation, the common language of all the Aborigines of
North America, it is one understood by all of them and appears to be
sufficiently copious to convey with a degree of certainty the outlines
of what they wish to communicate. in this manner we learnt from these
people that two men which they supposed to be of the Snake nation had
stolen 23 horses from them and that they were in pursuit of the
theaves. they told us they were in great hast, we gave them some boiled
venison, of which the eat sparingly. the sun was now set, two of them
departed after receiving a few small articles which we gave them, and
the third remained, having agreed to continue with us as a guide, and
to introduce us to his relations whom he informed us were numerous and
resided in the plain below the mountains on the columbia river, from
whence he said the water was good and capable of being navigated to the
sea; that some of his relation were at the sea last fall and saw an old
whiteman who resided there by himself and who had given them some
handkerchiefs such as he saw in our possession.--he said it would
require five sleeps wich is six days travel, to reach his relations.
the Flatheads are a very light coloured people of large stature and
comely form.
[Clark, September 10, 1805]
September 10th Tuesday 1805
A fair morning Concluded to Delay to day and make Some observations, as
at this place the rout which we are to prosue will pass up the
Travelers rest Creek, The day proved fair and we took equal altitudes &
Some Inner observations. The Latd. 46° 48' 28" as the guide report that
no game is to be found on our rout for a long ways, ads an addition to
the cause of our delay to precure Some meat, despatched all our hunters
in different directions, to hunt the Deer which is the only large game
to be found they killed 4 deer a Beaver & 3 Grouse which was divided,
one of the hunters Colter, met with 3 Tushapaw Indians who were in
pursuit of 2 Snake Indians that bade taken from ther Camps on the head
of Kooskooske River 21 horses, Those Indians came with Colter to our
Camp & informed by Signs of their misfortune & the rout to ther
villages &c. &c. one of them Concluded to return with us. we gave them
a ring fish hook & tied a pece of ribin in the hare of each which
appeared to please them verry much, Cap Lewis gave them a Steel & a
little Powder to make fire, after eating 2 of them proceeded on in
pursute of their horses. men all much engaged preparing mockersons &c.
&c. The Countrey about this place is already described in that above.
[Clark, September 11, 1805]
September 11th Wednesday 1805
A fair morning wind from the N W we Set out at 3 oClock and proceeded
on up the Travelers rest Creek, accompanied by the flat head or
Tushapaws Indians about 7 miles below this Creek a large fork comes in
from the right and heads up against the waters of the Missouri below
the Three forks, this river has extensive Vallies of open leavel land,
"and passes in its Whole Course thro a Valie" they call it our Guide
tels us a fine large roade passes up this river to the Missouri--The
loss of 2 of our horses detained us util. 3 oClock. P.M. our Flathead
Indian being restless thought proper to leave us and proceed on alone,
Sent out the hunters to hunt in advance as usial. (we have Selected 4
of the best hunters to go in advance to hunt for the party. This
arrangement has been made long sinc) we Proceeded on up the Creek on
the right Side thro a narrow valie and good road for 7 miles and
Encamped at Some old Indian Lodges, nothing killed this evening hills
on the right high & ruged, the mountains on the left high & Covered
with Snow. The day Verry worm
[Clark, September 12, 1805]
September 12th Thursday 1805
a white frost Set out at 7 oClock & proceeded on up the Creek, passed a
Fork on the right on which I saw near an old Indian encampment a Swet
house Covered wthh earth, at 2 miles assended a high hill & proceeded
through a hilley and thickly timbered Countrey for 9 miles & on the
Right of the Creek, passing Several branches from the right of fine
clear water and Struck at a fork at which place the road forks, one
passing up each fork. The Timber is Short & long leaf Pine Spruce Pine
& fur. The road through this hilley Countrey is verry bad passing over
hills & thro Steep hollows, over falling timber &c. &c. continued on &
passed Some most intolerable road on the Sides of the Steep Stoney
mountains, which might be avoided by keeping up the Creek which is
thickly covered with under groth & falling timber Crossed a mountain 8
miles with out water & encamped on a hill Side on the Creek after
Decending a long Steep mountain, Some of our Party did not git up
untill 10 oClock P M. I mad camp at 8 on this roade & particularly on
this Creek the Indians have pealed a number of Pine for the under bark
which they eate at certain Seasons of the year, I am told in the Spring
they make use of this bark our hunters Killed only one Pheasent this
after noon. Party and horses much fatigued.
[Clark, September 13, 1805]
September 13th Wednesday 1805 a cloudy morning Capt Lewis and one of
our guides lost their horses, Capt Lewis & 4 men detained to hunt the
horses, I proceeded on with the partey up the Creek at 2 miles passed
Several Springs which I observed the Deer Elk &c. had made roads to,
and below one of the Indians had made a whole to bathe, I tasted this
water and found it hot & not bad tasted The last ____ in further
examonation I found this water nearly boiling hot at the places it
Spouted from the rocks (which a hard Corse Grit, and of great size the
rocks on the Side of the Mountain of the Same texture) I put my finger
in the water, at first could not bare it in a Second-as Several roads
led from these Springs in different derections, my Guide took a wrong
road and took us out of our rout 3 miles through intolerable rout,
after falling into the right road I proceeded on thro tolerabl rout for
abt. 4 or 5 miles and halted to let our horses graze as well as waite
for Capt Lewis who has not yet Come up, The pine Countrey falling
timber &c. &c. Continue. This Creek is verry much darned up with the
beaver, but we can See none, dispatched two men back to hunt Capt Lewis
horse, after he came up, and we proceeded over a mountain to the head
of the Creek which we left to our left and at 6 miles from the place I
nooned it, we fell on a Small Creek from the left which Passed through
open glades Some of which 1/2 a mile wide, we proceeded down this Creek
about 2 miles to where the mountains Closed on either Side crossing the
Creek Several times & Encamped.
One Deer & Some Pheasants killed this morning, I shot 4 Pheasents of
the Common Kind except the taile was black. The road over the last
mountain was thick Steep & Stoney as usial, after passing the head of
Travelers rest Creek, the road was verry fine leavel open & firm Some
mountains in view to the S E & S W. Covered with Snow.
[Clark, September 14, 1805]
September 14th Thursday 1805
a Cloudy day in the Valies it rained and hailed, on the top of the
mountains Some Snow fell we Set out early and Crossed a high mountn on
the right of the Creek for 6 miles to the forks of the Glade Creek the
right hand fork which falls in is about the Size of the other, we
Crossed to the left Side at the foks, and Crossd a verry high Steep
mountain for 9 miles to a large fork from the left which appears to
head in the Snow toped mountains Southerley and S. E. we Crossd. Glade
Creek above its mouth, at a place the Tushepaws or Flat head Indians
have made 2 wears across to Catch Sammon and have but latterly left the
place I could see no fish, and the grass entirely eaten out by the
horses, we proceeded on 2 miles & Encamped opposit a Small Island at
the mouth of a branch on the right side of the river which is at this
place 80 yards wide, Swift and Stoney, here we wer compelled to kill a
Colt for our men & Selves to eat for the want of meat & we named the
South fork Colt killed Creek, and this river we Call Flathead River-
The Mountains which we passed today much worst than yesterday the last
excessively bad & Thickly Strowed with falling timber & Pine Spruc fur
Hackmatak & Tamerack, Steep & Stoney our men and horses much fatigued,
The rain ____
[Clark, September 15, 1805]
Wednesday Septr. 15th 1805
We set out early. the morning Cloudy and proceeded on Down the right
Side of River over Steep points rockey & buschey as usial for 4 miles
to an old Indian fishing place, here the road leaves the river to the
left and assends a mountain winding in every direction to get up the
Steep assents & to pass the emence quantity of falling timber which had
falling from dift. causes i e. fire & wind and has deprived the Greater
part of the Southerley Sides of this mountain of its gren timber, 4
miles up the mountain I found a Spring and halted for the rear to come
up and to let our horses rest & feed, about 2 hours the rear of the
party came up much fatigued & horses more So, Several horses Sliped and
roled down Steep hills which hurt them verry much The one which Carried
my desk & Small trunk Turned over & roled down a mountain for 40 yards
& lodged against a tree, broke the Desk the horse escaped and appeared
but little hurt Some others verry much hurt, from this point I observed
a range of high mountains Covered with Snow from S E. to S W with Their
top bald or void of timber. after two hours delay we proceeded on up
the mountain Steep & ruged as usial, more timber near the top, when we
arrived at the top As we Conceved we could find no water and Concluded
to Camp and make use of the Snow we found on the top to cook the remnt.
of our Colt & make our Supe, evening verry Cold and Cloudy. Two of our
horses gave out, pore and too much hurt to proceed on and left in the
rear--nothing killed to day except 2 Phests.
From this mountain I could observe high ruged mountains in every
direction as far as I could See. with the greatest exertion we Could
only make 12 miles up this mountain and encamped on the top of the
mountain near a Bank of old Snow about 3 feet deep lying on the
Northern Side of the mountain and in Small banks on the top & leavel
parts of the mountain, we melted the Snow to drink, and Cook our horse
flesh to eat.
[Clark, September 16, 1805]
Saturday Septr. 16th 1805
began to Snow about 3 hours before Day and Continud all day the Snow in
The morning 4 Inches deep on The old Snow, and by night we found it
from 6 to 8 Inches deep I walked in front to keep the road and found
great dificuelty in keeping it as in maney places the Snow had entirely
filled up the track, and obliged me to hunt Several minits for the
track at 12 oClock we halted on the top of the mountain to worm & dry
our Selves a little as well as to let our horses rest and graze a
little on Some long grass which I observed, (on) The South Steep hills
Side & falling timber Continue to day, and a thickly timbered Countrey
of 8 different kinds of pine, which are So covered with Snow, that in
passing thro them we are continually covered with Snow, I have been wet
and as cold in every part as I ever was in my life, indeed I was at one
time fearfull my feet would freeze in the thin mockersons which I wore,
after a Short delay in the middle of the Day, I took one man and
proceeded on as fast as I could about 6 miles to a Small branch passing
to the right, halted and built fires for the party agains their arrival
which was at Dusk verry cold and much fatigued we Encamped at this
Branch in a thickly timbered bottom which was Scercely large enough for
us to lie leavil, men all wet cold and hungary. Killed a Second Colt
which we all Suped hartily on and thought it fine meat.
I saw 4 Black tail Deer to day before we Set out which came up the
mountain and what is Singular Snaped 7 tims at a large buck. it is
Singular as my gun has a Steel frisen and never Snaped 7 times before
in examining her found the flint loose to describe the road of this day
would be a repitition of yesterday excpt the Snow which made it much
wors to proseed as we had in maney places to derect our Selves by the
appearence of the rubbings of the Packs against the trees which have
limbs quiet low and bending downwards
[Clark, September 17, 1805]
Sunday 17th Septr. 1805
Cloudy morning our horses much Scattered which detained us untill one
oClock P.M. at which time we Set out the falling Snow & Snow from the
trees which kept us wet all the after noon passed over Several high
ruged Knobs and Several dreans & Springs passing to the right, &
passing on the ridge devideing the waters of two Small rivers. road
excessively bad Snow on the Knobs, no Snow in the vallies Killed a fiew
Pheasents which was not Sufficient for our Supper which compelled us to
kill Something. a coalt being the most useless part of our Stock he
fell a Prey to our appetites. The after part of the day fare, we made
only 10 miles to day two horses fell & hurt themselves very much. we
Encamped on the top of a high Knob of the mountain at a run passing to
the left. we proceed on as yesterday, & with dificulty found the road
[Lewis, September 18, 1805]
Wednesday September 18th 1805.
Cap Clark set out this morning to go a head with six hunters. there
being no game in these mountains we concluded it would be better for
one of us to take the hunters and hurry on to the leavel country a head
and there hunt and provide some provision while the other remained with
and brought on the party the latter of these was my part; accordingly I
directed the horses to be gotten up early being determined to force my
march as much as the abilities of our horses would permit. the
negligence of one of the party Willard who had a spare horse not
attending to him and bringing him up last evening was the cause of our
detention this morning untill 1/2 after 8 A M when we set out. I sent
willard back to serch for his horse, and proceeded on with the party at
four in the evening he overtook us without the horse, we marched 18
miles this day and encamped on the side of a steep mountain; we
suffered for water this day passing one rivulet only; we wer fortunate
in finding water in a steep raviene about 1/2 maile from our camp. this
morning we finished the remainder of our last coult. we dined & suped
on a skant proportion of portable soupe, a few canesters of which, a
little bears oil and about 20 lbs. of candles form our stock of
provision, the only recources being our guns & packhorses. the first is
but a poor dependance in our present situation where there is nothing
upon earth exept ourselves and a few small pheasants, small grey
Squirrels, and a blue bird of the vulter kind about the size of a
turtle dove or jay bird. our rout lay along the ridge of a high
mountain course S. 20 W. 18 in. used the snow for cooking.
[Clark, September 18, 1805]
Monday 18th Septr. 1805
a fair morning cold I proceded on in advance with Six hunters to try
and find deer or Something to kill we passed over a countrey Similar to
the one of yesterday more falling timber passed Several runs & Springs
passing to the right from the top of a high part of the mountain at 20
miles I had a view of an emence Plain and leavel Countrey to the S W. &
West at a great distance a high mountain in advance beyond the Plain,
Saw but little Sign of deer and nothing else, much falling timber, made
32 miles and Encamped on a bold running Creek passing to the left which
I call Hungery Creek as at that place we had nothing to eate. I halted
only one hour to day to let our horses feed on Grass and rest
[Lewis, September 19, 1805]
Thursday September 19th 1805.
Set out this morning a little after sun rise and continued our rout
about the same course of yesterday or S. 20 W. for 6 miles when the
ridge terminated and we to our inexpressable joy discovered a large
tract of Prairie country lying to the S. W. and widening as it appeared
to extend to the W. through that plain the Indian informed us that the
Columbia river, in which we were in surch run. this plain appeared to
be about 60 Miles distant, but our guide assured us that we should
reach it's borders tomorrow the appearance of this country, our only
hope for subsistance greately revived the sperits of the party already
reduced and much weakened for the want of food. the country is thickly
covered with a very heavy growth of pine of which I have ennumerated 8
distinct species. after leaving the ridge we asscended and decended
several steep mountains in the distance of 6 miles further when we
struck a Creek about 15 yards wide our course being S. 35 W. we
continued our rout 6 miles along the side of this creek upwards passing
2 of it's branches which flowed in from the N. 1st at the place we
struck the creek and the other 3 miles further. the road was
excessively dangerous along this creek being a narrow rockey path
generally on the side of steep precipice, from which in many places if
ether man or horse were precipitated they would inevitably be dashed in
pieces. Fraziers horse fell from this road in the evening, and roled
with his load near a hundred yards into the Creek. we all expected that
the horse was killed but to our astonishment when the load was taken
off him he arose to his feet & appeared to be but little injured, in 20
minutes he proceeded with his load. this was the most wonderfull escape
I ever witnessed, the hill down which he roled was almost perpendicular
and broken by large irregular and broken rocks. the course of this
Creek upwards due W. we encamped on the Stard. side of it in a little
raviene, having traveled 18 miles over a very bad road. we took a small
quantity of portable soup, and retired to rest much fatiegued. several
of the men are unwell of the disentary. brakings out, or irruptions of
the Skin, have also been common with us for some time.
[Clark, September 19, 1805]
Tuesday 19th Septr. 1805
Set out early proceeded on up the Creek passing through a Small glade
at 6 miles at which place we found a horse. I derected him killed and
hung up for the party after takeing a brackfast off for our Selves
which we thought fine after Brackfast proceed on up the Creek two miles
& left it to our right passed over a mountain, and the heads of branch
of hungary Creek, two high mountains, ridges and through much falling
timber (which caused our road of to day to be double the derect
distance on the Course) Struck a large Creek passing to our left which
I Kept down for 4 miles and left it to our left & passed over a
mountain bad falling timber to a Small Creek passing to our left and
Encamped. I killed 2 Pheasents, but fiew birds Blue jay, Small white
headed hawk, Some Crows & ravins & large hawks. road bad.
[Lewis, September 20, 1805]
Friday September 20th 1805.
This morning my attention was called to a species of bird which I had
never seen before. It was reather larger than a robbin, tho much it's
form and action. the colours were a blueish brown on the back the wings
and tale black, as wass a stripe above the croop 3/4 of an inch wide in
front of the neck, and two others of the same colour passed from it's
eyes back along the sides of the head. the top of the head, neck brest
and belley and butts of the wing were of a fine yellowish brick reed.
it was feeding on the buries of a species of shoemake or ash which
grows common in country & which I first observed on 2d of this month. I
have also observed two birds of a blue colour both of which I believe
to be of the haulk or vulter kind. the one of a blue shining colour
with a very high tuft of feathers on the head a long tale, it feeds on
flesh the beak and feet black. it's note is cha-ah, cha-ah. it is about
the size of a pigeon; and in shape and action resembles the jay bird.-
another bird of very similar genus, the note resembling the mewing of
the cat, with a white head and a light blue colour is also common, as
are a black species of woodpecker about the size of the lark woodpecker
Three species of Pheasants, a large black species, with some white
feathers irregularly scattered on the brest neck and belley a smaller
kind of a dark uniform colour with a red stripe above the eye, and a
brown and yellow species that a good deel resembles the phesant common
to the Atlantic States. we were detained this morning untill ten oclock
in consequence of not being enabled to collect our horses. we had
proceeded about 2 miles when we found the greater part of a horse which
Capt Clark had met with and killed for us. he informed me by note that
he should proceed as fast as possible to the leavel country which lay
to the S. W. of us, which we discovered from the hights of the
mountains on the 19th there he intended to hunt untill our arrival. at
one oclock we halted and made a hearty meal on our horse beef much to
the comfort of our hungry stomachs. here I larnt that one of the
Packhorses with his load was missing and immediately dispatched
Baptiest Lapage who had charge of him, to surch for him. he returned at
;3 OC. without the horse. The load of the horse was of considerable
value consisting of merchandize and all my stock of winter cloathing. I
therefore dispatched two of my best woodsmen in surch of him, and
proceeded with the party. Our rout lay through a thick forrest of large
pine the general course being S. 25 W. and distance about 15 miles. our
road was much obstructed by fallen timber particularly in the evening
we encamped on a ridge where ther was but little grass for our horses,
and at a distance from water. however we obtained as much as served our
culinary purposes and suped on our beef. the soil as you leave the
hights of the mountains becomes gradually more fertile. the land
through which we passed this evening is of an excellent quality tho
very broken, it is a dark grey soil. a grey free stone appearing in
large masses above the earth in many places. saw the hucklebury,
honeysuckle, and alder common to the Atlantic states, also a kind of
honeysuckle which bears a white bury and rises about 4 feet high not
common but to the western side of the rockey mountains. a growth which
resembles the choke cherry bears a black bury with a single stone of a
sweetish taste, it rises to the hight of 8 or 10 feet and grows in
thick clumps. the Arborvita is also common and grows to an immence
size, being from 2 to 6 feet in diameter.
[Clark, September 20, 1805]
Wednesday 20th September 1805
I Set out early and proceeded on through a Countrey as ruged as usial
passed over a low mountain into the forks of a large Creek which I kept
down 2 miles and assended a Steep mountain leaveing the Creek to our
left hand passed the head of Several dreans on a divideing ridge, and
at 12 miles decended the mountain to a leavel pine Countrey proceeded
on through a butifull Countrey for three miles to a Small Plain in
which I found maney Indian lodges, at the distance of 1 mile from the
lodges I met 3 boys, when they Saw me ran and hid themselves searched
found gave them Small pieces of ribin & Sent them forward to the
village a man Came out to meet me with;great Caution & Conducted us to
a large Spacious Lodge which he told me (by Signs) was the Lodge of his
great Chief who had Set out 3 days previous with all the Warriers of
the nation to war on a South West derection & would return in 15 or 18
days. the fiew men that were left in the Village aged, great numbers of
women geathered around me with much apparent Signs of fear, and apr.
pleased they gave us a Small piece of Buffalow meat, Some dried Salmon
beries & roots in different States, Some round and much like an onion
which they call quamash the Bread or Cake is called Passhe-co Sweet, of
this they make bread & Supe they also gave us the bread made of this
root all of which we eate hartily, I gave them a fiew Small articles as
preasents, and proceeded on with a Chief to his Village 2 miles in the
Same Plain, where we were treated kindly in their way and continued
with them all night Those two Villages consist of about 30 double
lodges, but fiew men a number of women & children; They call themselves
Cho pun-nish or Pierced Noses; " their dialect appears verry different
from the Tushapaws altho origneally the Same people" They are darker
than the Tushapaws Their dress Similar, with more beads white & blue
principally, brass & Copper in different forms, Shells and ware their
haire in the Same way. they are large Portley men Small women & handsom
fetued Emence quantity of the quawmash or Pas-shi-co root gathered & in
piles about the plains, those roots grow much an onion in marshey
places the seed are in triangular Shell on the Stalk. they Sweat them
in the following manner i. e. dig a large hole 3 feet deep Cover the
bottom with Split wood on the top of which they lay Small Stones of
about 3 or 4 Inches thick, a Second layer of Splited wood & Set the
whole on fire which heats the Stones, after the fire is extinguished
they lay grass & mud mixed on the Stones, on that dry grass which
Supports the Pash-Shi-co root a thin Coat of the Same grass is laid on
the top, a Small fire is kept when necessary in the Center of the kite
&c.
I find myself verry unwell all the evening from eateing the fish &
roots too freely. Sent out the hunters they killed nothing Saw Some
Signs of deer.
[Lewis, September 21, 1805]
Saturday September 21st 1805.
We were detained this morning untill 11 OCk. in consequence of not
being able to collect our horses. we then set out and proceeded along
the ridge on which we had encamped, leaving which at 11/2 we passed a
large creek runing to the left just above it's junction with another
which run parrallel with and on the left of our road before we struck
the creek; through the level wide and heavy timbered bottom of this
creek we proceeded about 21/2 miles when bearing to the right we passed
a broken country heavily timbered great quantities of which had fallen
and so obstructed our road that it was almost impracticable to proceed
in many places. though these hills we proceeded about 5 Ms. when we
passed a small creek on which Capt Clark encamped on the 19th passing
this creek we continued our rout 5 Ms thro a similar country when we
struck a large creek at the forks, passed the Northen branch and
continued down it on the West side 1 mile and encamped in a small open
bottom where there was tolerable food for our horses. I directed the
horses to be hubbled to prevent delay in the morning being determined
to make a forced march tomorrow in order to reach if possible the open
country. we killed a few Pheasants, and I killd a prarie woolf which
together with the ballance of our horse beef and some crawfish which we
obtained in the creek enabled us to make one more hearty meal, not
knowing where the next was to be found. the Arborvita increases in
quantity and size. I saw several sticks today large enough to form
eligant perogues of at least 45 feet in length.--I find myself growing
weak for the want of food and most of the men complain of a similar
deficiency and have fallen off very much. the general course of this
day S 30 W 15M.
[Clark, September 21, 1805]
Septr. 21st Saturday 1805
a fine morning Sent out all the hunters early in different directions
to Kill Something and delayed with the Indians to prevent Suspicion &
to acquire as much information as possible. one of them Drew me a Chart
of the river & nations below informed of one falls below which the
white men lived from whome they got white beeds cloth &c. &c. The day
proved warm, 2 Chifs of Bands visited me to day--the hunters all
returned without any thing, I collected a horse load of roots & 3
Sammon & Sent R Fields with one Indian to meet Capt Lewis at 4 oClock
Set out with the other men to the river, passed thro a fine Pine
Country decended a Steep ruged hill verry long to a Small river which
comes from our left and I suppose it to be ____ River passed down the
river 2 miles on a Steep hill side at r r oClock P.M. arrived at a camp
of 5 Squars a boy & 2 Children those people were glad to See us & gave
us drid Sammon one had formerly been taken by the Minitarries of the
north & Seen white men, our guide called the Chief who was fishing on
the other Side of the river, whome I found a Cherfull man of about 65 I
gave him a Medal.
[Clark, September 21, 1805]
Thursday 21st Septr. 1805
A fine morning Sent out all the hunters in different directions to hunt
deer, I myself delayd with the Chief to prevent Suspission and to
Collect by Signs as much information as possible about the river and
Countrey in advance. The Cheif drew me a kind of chart of the river,
and informed me that a greater Cheif than himself was fishing at the
river half a days march from his village called the twisted hare, and
that the river forked a little below his Camp and at a long distance
below & below 2 large forks one from the left & the other from the
right the river passed thro'gh the mountains at which place was a great
fall of the water passing through the rocks, at those falls white
people lived from whome they preceured the white Beeds & Brass &c.
which the womin wore; a Chief of another band visit me to day and
Smoked a pipe, I gave my handkerchief & a Silver Cord with a little
Tobacco to those Chiefs, The hunters all return without any thing, I
purchased as much Provisions as I could with what fiew things I chaned
to have in my Pockets, Such a Salmon Bread roots & berries, & Sent one
man R. Fields with an Indian to meet Capt. Lewis, and at 4 oClock P M.
Set out to the river, met a man at dark on his way from the river to
the village, whome I hired and gave the neck handkerchief of one of the
men, to polit me to the Camp of the twisted hare we did not arrive at
the Camp of the Twisted hare but oppost, untill half past 11 oClock P
M. found at this Camp five Squars & 3 Children. my guide called to the
Chief who was Encamped with 2 others on a Small Island in the river, he
Soon joind me, I found him a Chearfull man with apparant Siencerity, I
gave him a medal &c. and Smoked untill 1 oClock a.m. and went to Sleep.
The Countrey from the mountains to the river hills is a leavel rich
butifull Pine Countrey badly watered, thinly timbered & covered with
grass--The weather verry worm after decending into the low Countrey,-
the river hills are verry high & Steep, Small bottoms to this little
river which is Flat head & is 160 yards wide and Sholey This river is
the one we killed the first Coalt on near a fishing were I am verry
Sick to day and puke which relive me.
[Lewis, September 22, 1805]
Sunday September 22cd 1805.
Notwithstanding my positive directions to hubble the horses last
evening one of the men neglected to comply. he plead ignorance of the
order. this neglect however detained us untill 1/2 after eleven OCk at
which time we renewed our march, our course being about west. we had
proceeded about two and a half miles when we met Reubin Fields one of
oure hunters, whom Capt. Clark had dispatched to meet us with some
dryed fish and roots that he had procured from a band of Indians, whose
lodges were about eight miles in advance. I ordered the party to halt
for the purpose of taking some refreshment. I divided the fish roots
and buries, and was happy to find a sufficiency to satisfy compleatly
all our appetites. Fields also killed a crow after refreshing ourselves
we proceeded to the village due West 71/2 Miles where we arrived at 5
OCk. in the afternoon our rout was through lands heavily timbered, the
larger wood entirely pine. the country except the last 3 miles was
broken and decending the pleasure I now felt in having tryumphed over
the rocky Mountains and decending once more to a level and fertile
country where there was every rational hope of finding a comfortable
subsistence for myself and party can be more readily conceived than
expressed, nor was the flattering prospect of the final success of the
expedition less pleasing. on our approach to the village which
consisted of eighteen lodges most of the women fled to the neighbouring
woods on horseback with their children, a circumstance I did not expect
as Capt. Clark had previously been with them and informed them of our
pacific intentions towards them and also the time at which we should
most probably arrive. the men seemed but little concerned, and several
of them came to meet us at a short distance from their lodges unarmed.
[Clark, September 22, 1805]
September 22nd Sunday 1805
a fine morning, I proceed on down the little river to about 11/2 a mile
& found the Chif in a Canoe Comeing to meet me I got into his Canoe &
Crossed over to his Camp on a Small Island at a rapid Sent out the
hunters leaving one to take care of the baggage, & after eating a part
of a Samn. I Set out on my return to meet Capt. Lewis with the Chief &
his Son at 2 miles met Shields with 3 Deer, I took a Small peice &
Changed for his horse which was fresh & proced on this horse threw me 3
times which hurt me Some. at Dark met Capt Lewis Encamped at the first
Village men much fatigued & reduced, the Supply which I sent by R Flds.
was timely, they all eate hartily of roots & fish, 2 horses lost 1 Days
journey back
[Clark, September 22, 1805]
Friday 22nd Septr. 1805
a verry worm day the hunters Shild killed 3 Deer this morning. I left
them on the Island and Set out with the Chief & his Son on a young
horse for the Village at which place I expected to meet Capt Lewis this
young horse in fright threw himself & me 3 times on the Side of a Steep
hill & hurt my hip much, Cought a Coalt which we found on the roade & I
rode it for Several miles untill we saw the Chiefs horses, he cought
one & we arrived at his Village at Sunset, & himself and myslf walked
up to the 2d Village where I found Capt Lewis & the party Encamped,
much fatigued, & hungery, much rejoiced to find something to eate of
which They appeared to partake plentifully. I cautioned them of the
Consequences of eateing too much &c.
The planes appeared covered with Spectators viewing the White men and
the articles which we had, our party weacke and much reduced in flesh
as well as Strength, The horse I left hung up they receved at a time
they were in great want, and the Supply I Sent by R. Fields proved
timely and gave great encouragement to the party with Captn. Lewis. he
lost 3 horses one of which belonged to our guide. Those Indians Stole
out of R. F. Shot pouch his knife wipers Compas & Steel, which we Could
not precure from them, we attempted to have Some talk with those people
but Could not for the want of an Interpreter thro which we Could
Speake, we were Compelled to converse Altogether by Signs--I got the
Twisted hare to draw the river from his Camp down which he did with
great cherfullness on a white Elk Skin, from the 1s fork which is a few
seven miles below, to the large fork on which the So So ne or Snake
Indians fish, is South 2 Sleeps; to a large river which falls in on the
N W. Side and into which The Clarks river empties itself is 5 Sleeps
from the mouth of that river to the falls is 5 Sleeps at the falls he
places Establishments of white people &c. and informs that great
numbers of Indians reside on all those foks as well as the main river;
one other Indian gave me a like account of the Countrey, Some few drops
of rain this evening. I precured maps of the Country & river with the
Situation of Indians, To come from Several men of note Seperately which
varied verey little.
[Clark, September 23, 1805]
Septr. 23rd Sunday
Traded with the Indians, made 3 Chiefs and gave them meadels & Tobacco
& Handkerchif & knives, and a flag & left a Flag & hand kerches for the
great Chief when he returns from war, in the evening proceeded to the
2d Vilg 2 miles, a hard wind and rain at dark, traded for Some root
Bread & Skins to make Shirts. hot day
[Clark, September 23, 1805]
Saturday 23rd Septr 1805.
We assembled the principal Men as well as the Chiefs and by Signs
informed them where we came from where bound our wish to inculcate
peace and good understanding between all the red people &c. which
appeared to Satisfy them much, we then gave 2 other Medals to other
Chefs of bands, a flag to the twisted hare, left a flag & Handkerchief
to the grand Chief gave, a Shirt to the Twisted hare & a knife &
Handkerchif with a Small pece of Tobacco to each. Finding that those
people gave no provisions to day we deturmined to purchase with our
Small articles of merchindize, accord we purchased all we could, Such
as roots dried, in bread, & in ther raw State, Berris of red Haws &
Fish and in the evening Set out and proceeded on to the 2d Village 2
miles dist. where we also purchased a few articles all amounting to as
much as our weak horses Could Carry to the river Capt. Lewis & 2 men
verry Sick this evening, my hip verry Painfull, the men trade a few old
tin Canisters for dressed Elk Skin to make themselves Shirts, at dark a
hard wind from The S W accompaned with rain which lasted half an hour.
The twisted hare envited Capt Lewis & myself to his lodge which was
nothin more than Pine bushes & bark, and gave us Some broiled dried
Salmon to eate, great numbers about us all night at this village the
women were busily employed in gathering and drying the Pas-she co root
of which they had great quantites dug in piles
[Clark, September 24, 1805]
Septr. 24th Monday 1805
Set out early for the river and proceeded on the Same road I had
prevsly gorn to the Island at which place I had found the Chief &
formed a Camp several 8 or 9 men Sick, Capt Lewis Sick all Complain of
a Lax & heaviness at the Stomack, I gave rushes Pills to Several hot
day maney Indians & thier gangues of horses follow us hot day Hunter
had 5 Deer
[Clark, September 24, 1805]
Sunday 24th Septr. 1805
a fine morning collected our horses despatched J. Colter back to hunt
the horses lost in the mountains & bring up Some Shot left behind, and
at 10 oClock we all Set out for the river and proceeded on by the Same
rout I had previously traveled, and at Sunset We arrived at the Island
on which I found the Twisted hare and formed a Camp on a large Island a
littl below, Capt Lewis Scercely able to ride on a jentle horse which
was furnishd by the Chief, Several men So unwell that they were
Compelled to lie on the Side of the road for Some time others obliged
to be put on horses. I gave rushes Pills to the Sick this evening.
Several Indians follow us.
[Clark, September 25, 1805]
Septr. 25th I with th Chief & 2 young men went down to hunt timber for
Canoes--proceeded on down to the forks 4 miles N 70° W 2 miles S. 75°W 2
miles, halted young men Cought 6 Sammon, the forks nearly the Same
Size, Crossed the South fork & found Timber large Pine in a bottom
Proceeded up the South Side 3 parts of Party Sick Capt Lewis verry Sick
hot day
[Clark, September 25, 1805]
Monday 25th of September 1805
a verry hot day most of the Party Complaining and 2 of our hunters left
here on the 22nd verry Sick they had killed only two Bucks in my
absence. I Set out early with the Chief and 2 young men to hunt Some
trees Calculated to build Canoes, as we had previously deturmined to
proceed on by water, I was furnished with a horse and we proceeded on
down the river Crossed a Creek at 1 mile from the right verry rockey
which I call rock dam Creek & Passed down on the N side of the river to
a fork from the North which is about the Same Size and affords about
the Same quantity of water with the other forks we halted about an
hour, one of the young men took his guilt and killed 6 fine Salmon two
of them were roasted and we eate, two Canoes Came up loaded with the
furnitur & provisions of 2 families, those Canoes are long Stedy and
without much rake I crossed the South fork and proceeded up on the
South Side, the most of the way thro a narrow Pine bottom in which I
Saw fine timber for Canoes one of the Indian Canoes with 2 men with
Poles Set out from the forks at the Same time I did and arrived at our
Camp on the Island within 15 minits of the Same time I did, not
withstanding 3 rapids which they had to draw the Canoe thro in the
distance, when I arrived at Camp found Capt Lewis verry Sick, Several
men also verry Sick, I gave Some Salts & Tarter emetic, we deturmined
to go to where the best timbr was and there form a Camp
[Clark, September 26, 1805]
Septr. 26th Set out early and proceeded down the river to the bottom on
the S Side opposit the forks & formed a Camp had ax handled ground &c.
our axes all too Small, Indians caught Sammon & Sold us, 2 Chiefs &
thir families came & camped near us, Several men bad, Capt Lewis Sick I
gave Pukes Salts &c. to Several, I am a little unwell. hot day
[Clark, September 26, 1805]
Tuesday 26th Septr. 1805
Set out early and proceeded on down the river to a bottom opposit the
forks of the river on the South Side and formed a Camp. Soon after our
arrival a raft Came down the N. fork on which was two men, they came
too, I had the axes distributed and handled and men apotned. ready to
commence building canoes on tomorrow, our axes are Small & badly
Calculated to build Canoes of the large Pine, Capt Lewis Still very
unwell, Several men taken Sick on the way down, I administered Salts
Pils Galip, Tarter emetic &c. I feel unwell this evening, two Chiefs &
their families follow us and encamp near us, they have great numbers of
horses. This day proved verry hot, we purchase fresh Salmon of the
Indians
[Clark, September 27, 1805]
Septr. 27th Thursday 1805
Set all the men able to work abt. building Canoes, Colter returned and
found one horse & the Canister of Shot left in the mountains he also
killed a Deer 1/2 of which he brought hot day--men Sick
[Clark, September 27, 1805]
27th Septr. Wednesday 1805
all the men able to work comened building 5 Canoes, Several taken Sick
at work, our hunters returned Sick without meet. J. Colter returned he
found only one of the lost horses, on his way killed a deer, half of
which he gave the Indians the other proved nourishing to the Sick The
day verry hot, we purchase fresh Salmon of them Several Indians Come up
the river from a Camp Some distance below Capt Lewis very Sick nearly
all the men Sick. our Shoshonee Indian Guide employed himself makeing
flint points for his arrows
[Clark, September 28, 1805]
Septr. 28th Friday Several men Sick all at work which is able, nothing
killed to day. Drewyer Sick maney Indians visit us worm day
[Clark, September 28, 1805]
Thursday 28th Septr. 1805
Our men nearly all Complaining of ther bowels, a heaviness at the
Stomach & Lax, Some of those taken first getting better, a number of
Indians about us gazeing &c. &c. This day proved verry worm and
Sultery, nothing killed men complaining of their diat of fish & roots.
all that is able working at the Canoes, Several Indians leave us to
day, the raft continue on down the river, one old man informed us that
he had been to the White peoples fort at the falls & got white beeds &c
his Story was not beleved as he Could explain nothing.
[Clark, September 29, 1805]
Septr. 29th Satterday Drewyer killed 2 deer Collins 1 der men Conte
Sickly at work all able to work.
[Clark, September 29, 1805]
Sunday 29th Septr. 1805
a Cool morning wind from the S. W. men Sick as usial, all The men that
are able to at work, at the Canoes Drewyer killed 2 Deer Colter killed
1 Deer, the after part of this day worm Cap Lewis very Sick, and most
of the men complaning very much of ther bowels & Stomach
[Clark, September 30, 1805]
Sunday 30th Septr. 1805 Forks
a fine morning our men recruting a little cool, all at work doing
Something except 2 which are verry Sick, Great run of Small duck
passing down the river this morning.
[Clark, September 30, 1805]
Septr. 30th Saturday (Monday) 1805
a fine fair morning a the men recruiting a little, all at work which
are able. Great number of Small Ducks pass down the river this morning.
maney Indians passing up and down the river.
[Clark, October 1, 1805]
October 1st 1805 Tuesday
a cool morning wind from the N. E. I examine & Dry all our article
Cloths &. nothing to eate except Drid fish verry bad diet Capt Lewis
getting much better than for Several days past Several Indians visit us
from the different villages below and on the main fork S. nothing killed
[Clark, October 1, 1805]
October 1st Tuesday 1805
A cool morning wind from the East had Examined and dried all our
clothes and other articles and laid out a Small assortment of Such
articles as those Indians were fond of to trade with them for Some
provisions (they are remarkably fond of Beeds) nothin to eate except a
little dried fish which they men complain of as working of them as as
much as a dost of Salts. Capt Lewis getting much better. Several
Indians visit us from the different tribes below Some from the main
South fork our hunters killed nothing to day worm evening
[Clark, October 2, 1805]
Oct. 2nd 1805 Wednesday
dispatch 2 men & an Indian up to the villages we first Came too to
purchase roots fish &c. nothing to eate but roots. gave a small pice of
Tobacco to the Indians, 3 broachs & 2 rings with my Handkerchif divided
between 5 of them. I walked on the hills to hunt to day, Saw only one
deer, Could kill nothing day excesively hot in the river bottom wind
North, Burning out the holler of our canoes, men Something better
nothing except a Small Prarie wolf Killed to day, our Provisions all
out except what fiew fish we purchase of the Indians with us; we kill a
horse for the men at work to eate &c. &c.
[Clark, October 2, 1805]
October 2nd Wednesday 1805
Despatched 2 men Frasure & S. Guterich back to the village with 1
Indian & 6 horses to purchase dried fish, roots &c. we have nothing to
eate but roots, which give the men violent pains in their bowels after
eating much of them. To the Indians who visited us yesterday I gave
divided my Handkerchief between 5 of them, with a Small piece of
tobacco & a pece of riebin & to the 2 principal men each a ring &
brooch. I walked out with my gun on the hills which is verry Steep &
high could kill nothing. day hot wind N. Hunters killed nothing excep a
Small Prarie wolf. Provisions all out, which Compells us to kill one of
our horses to eate and make Suep for the Sick men.
[Clark, October 3, 1805]
October 3rd Thursday 1805 Canoe Camp
a fair cool morning wind from the East all our men getting well and at
work at the canoes &c.
[Clark, October 3, 1805]
October 3rd Thursday 1805
a fine morning cool wind East all our men getting better in helth, and
at work at the Canoes &. The Indians who visited us from below Set out
on their return early. Several others Came from different directions
[Clark, October 4, 1805]
October 4th 1805 Friday
This morning is a little cool wind from the East. displeased an Indian
by refuseing to let him have a pice of Tobacco. thre Inds. from the S.
fork visit us Frasur and Guterich return from the village with fish
roots &c. which they purchased
[Clark, October 4, 1805]
October 4th Friday 1805
a Cool wind from off the Eastern mountains I displeased an Indian by
refuseing him a pice of Tobacco which he tooke the liberty to take out
of our Sack Three Indians visit us from the Grat River South of us. The
two men Frasure and Guterich return late from the Vllage with Fish
roots &c. which they purchased as our horse is eaten we have nothing to
eate except dried fish & roots which disagree with us verry much. The
after part of this day verry warm. Capt Lewis Still Sick but able to
walk about a little.
[Clark, October 5, 1805]
October 5th Saturday 1805
a Cool morning wind from the East, Collected all our horses, & Branded
them 38 in No. and delivered them to the men who were to take Charge of
them, each of which I gave a Knife & one a wampom Shell gorget, The
Lattd. of this place the mean of 2 observations is 46° 34' 56.3" North.
nothing to eate but dried roots & Dried fish, Capt Lewis & my Self eate
a Supper of roots boiled, which filled us So full of wind, that we were
Scercely able to Breathe all night felt the effects of it. Lanced 2
Canoes to day one proved a little leakey the other a verry good one
[Clark, October 5, 1805]
October 5th Saty 1805
Wind Easterley and Cool, had all our horses 38 in number Collected and
branded Cut off their fore top and delivered them to the 2 brothers and
one Son of one of the Chiefs who intends to accompany us down the river
to each of those men I gave a Knife & Some Small articles &c. they
promised to be attentive to our horses untill we Should return.
Lattitude of this place from the mean of two observations is 46° 34'
56.3" North
Nothing to eate except dried fish & roots. Capt Lewis & myself eate a
Supper of roots boiled, which Swelled us in Such a manner that we were
Scercely able to breath for Several hours--finished and lanced 2 of our
Canoes this evening which proved to be verry good our hunters with
every diligence Could kill nothing. The hills high and ruged and woods
too dry to hunt the deer which is the only game in our neighbourhood.
Several Squars Came with Fish and roots which we purchased of them for
Beeds, which they were fond of--Capt Lewis not So well to day as
yesterday
[Clark, October 6, 1805]
October 6th Sunday 1805
A Col Easterley wind which Spring up in the latter part of the night
and Continues untill about 7 or 8 oClock A.M. had all our Saddles
Collected a whole dug and in the night buried them, also a Canister of
powder and a bag of Balls at the place the Canoe which Shields made was
cut from the body of the tree--The Saddles were buried on the Side of a
bend about 1/2 a mile below--all the Canoes finished this evening ready
to be put into the water. I am taken verry unwell with a paine in the
bowels & Stomach, which is certainly the effects of my diet-which last
all night-.
The winds blow cold from a little before day untill the Suns gets to
Some hight from the Mountans East as they did from the mountans at the
time we lay at the falls of Missouri from the West The river below this
forks is Called Kos kos keel it is Clear rapid with Shoals or Swift
places The open Countrey Commences a fiew miles below This on each side
of the river, on the Lard Side below the 1st Creek. with a few trees
Scattered near the river. passd maney bad rapids, one Canoe that in
which I went in front Sprung a Leak in passing the 3rd rapid