[Clark, October 7, 1805]
October 7th Monday 1805
I continu verry unwell but obliged to attend every thing all the Canoes
put into the water and loaded, fixed our Canoes as well as possible and
Set out as we were about to Set out we missd. both of the Chiefs who
promised to accompany us; I also missed my Pipe Tomahawk which Could
not be found.
The after part of the day Cloudy proceded on passed 10 rapids which wer
danjerous the Canoe in which I was Struck a rock and Sprung a leak in
the 3rd rapid, we proceeded on 20 miles and Encamped on a Stard point
oppost a run. passed a Creek Small on the Lard. Side at 9 miles, a
Short distanc from the river at 2 feet 4 Inches N. of a dead toped pine
Treee had burid 2 Lead Canisters of Powder
Had the Canoes unloaded examined and mended a Small leake which we
discovered in a thin place in her Side passed Several Camps of Indians
to day our Course and distance Shall be given after I get to the forks.
&c.which the Indians Say is the last of the bad water untill we get to
the great falls 10 day below, where the white people live &c. The
Lodges are of Sticks set in a form of roof of a house & covered with
mats and Straw
[Clark, October 8, 1805]
8th Octr. 1805 Tuesday
a cloudy morning Changed Canoes and buried 2 Lead canisters of Powder 2
foot 4 In. North of a dead toped pine opposit our Camp & opposit the
mouth of a run after repareing leaks in the Canoes Sprung Coming over
the rapids yesterday Set out at 9 oClock
[Clark, October 8, 1805]
October 8th Tuesday 1805
A Cloudy morning loaded our Canoes which was unloaded last night and
Set out at 9 oClock passed 15 rapids four Islands and a Creek on the
Stard Side at 16 miles just below which one canoe in which Serjt. Gass
was Stearing and was nearle turning over, She Sprung a leak or Split
open on one Side and Bottom filled with water & Sunk on the rapid, the
men, Several of which Could not Swim hung on to the Canoe, I had one of
the other Canoes unloaded & with the assistance of our Small Canoe and
one Indian Canoe took out every thing & toed the empty Canoe on Shore,
one man Tompson a little hurt, every thing wet perticularly the greater
part of our Small Stock of merchindize, had every thing opened, and two
Sentinals put over them to keep off the Indians, who are enclined to
theave haveing Stole Several Small articles those people appeared
disposed to give us every assistance in their power dureing our
distress--We passed Several Encampments of Indians on the Islands and
those near the rapids in which places they took the Salmon, at one of
Those Camps we found our two Chiefs who had promised to accompany us,
we took them on board after the Serimony of Smokeing
[Clark, October 9, 1805]
Octo. 9th all day drying our roots good & articles which got wet in the
Canoe last night. our 2 Snake Indian guides left us without our
knowledge, The Indians troublesom Stole my Spoon which they returned.
men merry at night & Singular acts of a Ind. woman
[Clark, October 9, 1805]
October 9th Wednesday 1805
The morning Cool as usial the greater part of the day proved to be
Cloudy, which was unfavourable for drying our things &c. which got wet
yesterday. In examoning our canoe found that by putting Knees & Strong
peces pined to her Sides and bottom &c. She Could be made fit for
Service in by the time the goods dried, Set 4 men to work at her,
Serjt. Pryor & Gass, Jo Fields & Gibson, others to Collect rosin, at 1
oClock She was finished Stronger than ever The wet articles not
Sufficiently dried to pack up obliged us to delay another night dureing
the time one man was tradeing for fish for our voyage, at Dark we were
informed that our old guide & his Son had left us and had been Seen
running up the river Several miles above, we Could not account for the
Cause of his leaveing us at this time, without receiving his pay for
the Services he had rendered us, or letting us know anything of his
intention.
we requested the Chief to Send a horseman after our old guide to come
back and recive his pay &c. which he advised us not to do as his nation
would take his things from him before he passed their camps The Indians
and our party were very mery this after noon a woman faind madness &c.
&c. Singular acts of this woman in giveing in Small potions all She had
& if they were not received She would Scarrify her Self in a horid
manner &c. Capt Lewis recovring fast.
a verry worm day, Indians continue all day on the banks to view us as
low as the forks. Two Indians come up in a Canoe, who means to
accompany us to the Great rapids, Could get no observations, worm night
The water of the South fork is of a bluish green colour
[Clark, October 10, 1805]
October 10th Wednesday Thursday
a fine Morning loaded and Set out at 7 oClock at 21/2 miles passed a
run on the Stard. Side haveing passed 2 Islands and two bad rapids at 3
miles lower passed a Creek on the Lard. with wide Cotton willow bottoms
haveing passed an Island and a rapid an Indian Camp of three Lodgs
below the Creek at 81/2 miles lower we arrived at the heade of a verry
bad riffle at which place we landed near 8 Lodges of Indians on the
Lard Side to view the riffle, haveing passed two Islands & Six rapids
Several of them verry bad-after view'g this riffle two Canoes were
taken over verry well; the third Stuck on a rock which took us an hour
to get her off which was effected without her receving a greater
injurey than a Small Split in her Side which was repared in a Short
time, we purchased fish & dogs of those people, dined and proceeded on-
here we met with an Indian from the falls at which place he Sais he Saw
white people, and expressd an inclination to accompany us, we passd. a
fiew miles above this riffle 2 Lodges and an Indian batheing in a hot
bath made by hot Stones thrown into a pon of water. at this riffle
which we Call ragid rapid took meridian altitude of the Suns upper Limb
with Sextt. 74° 26' 0" Latd. produced ____ North at five miles lower and
Sixty miles below the forks arived at a large Southerly fork which is
the one we were on with the Snake or So-So-nee nation (haveing passed 5
rapids) This South fork or Lewis's River which has two forks which fall
into it on the South the ist Small the upper large and about 2 days
march up imediately parrelal to the first villages we Came to and is
called by those Indians Par-nash-te on this fork a little above its
mouth resides a Chief who as the Indian Say has more horses than he can
Count and further Sayeth that Louises River is navagable about 60 miles
up with maney rapids at which places the Indians have fishing Camps and
Lodjes built of an oblong form with flat ruffs. below the 1st river on
the South Side there is ten established fishing places on the 1st fork
which fall in on the South Side is one fishing place, between that and
the Par nash to River, five fishing places, above two, and one on that
river all of the Cho-pun-nish or Pierced Nose Nation many other Indians
reside high up those rivers The Countrey about the forks is an open
Plain on either Side I can observe at a distance on the lower Stard.
Side a high ridge of Thinly timbered Countrey the water of the South
fork-is a greenish blue, the north as clear as cristial
Imediately in the point is an Indian Cabin & in the South fork a Small
Island, we came to on the Stard. Side below with a view to make some
luner observations the night proved Cloudy and we were disapointed The
Indians Came down all the Couses of this river on each Side on horses
to view us as we were desending,--The man whome we saw at the ruged
rapid and expressed an inclination to accompany us to the great rapids,
came up with his Son in a Small Canoe and procisted in his intentions-
worthey of remark that not one Stick of timber on the river near the
forks and but a fiew trees for a great distance up the River we
decended I think Lewis's River is about 250 yards wide, the Koos koos
ke River about 150 yards wide and the river below the forks about 300
yards wide. a miss understanding took place between Shabono one of our
interpreters, and Jo. & R Fields which appears to have originated in
just--our diet extremely bad haveing nothing but roots and dried fish
to eate, all the Party have greatly the advantage of me, in as much as
they all relish the flesh of the dogs, Several of which we purchased of
the nativs for to add to our Store of fish and roots &c. &c.-
The Cho-pun-nish or Pierced nose Indians are Stout likeley men, handsom
women, and verry dressey in their way, the dress of the men are a white
Buffalow robe or Elk Skin dressed with Beeds which are generally white,
Sea Shells-i e the Mother of Pirl hung to ther hair & on a pice of
otter Skin about their necks hair Cewed in two parsels hanging forward
over their Sholders, feathers, and different Coloured Paints which they
find in their Countrey Generally white, Green & light Blue. Some fiew
were a Shirt of Dressed Skins and long legins, & Mockersons Painted,
which appears to be their winters dress, with a plat of twisted grass
about their necks.
The women dress in a Shirt of Ibex, or Goat Skins which reach quite
down to their anckles with a girdle, their heads are not ornemented,
their Shirts are ornemented with quilled Brass, Small peces of Brass
Cut into different forms, Beeds, Shells & curios bones &c. The men
expose those parts which are generally kept from view by other nations
but the women are more perticular than any other nation which I have
passed in Screting the parts
Their amusements appear but fiew as their Situation requires the utmost
exertion to prcure food they are generally employed in that pursute,
all the Summer & fall fishing for the Salmon, the winter hunting the
deer on Snow Shoes in the plains and takeing care of ther emence
numbers of horses, & in the Spring cross the mountains to the Missouri
to get Buffalow robes and meet &c. at which time they frequent meet
with their enemies & lose their horses & maney of ther people
Ther disorders are but fiew and those fiew of a Scofelous nature. they
make great use of Swetting. The hot and cold baethes, They are verry
Selfish and Stingey of what they have to eate or ware, and they expect
in return Something for everything give as presents or the Survices
which they doe let it be however Small, and fail to make those returns
on their part.
[Clark, October 11, 1805]
October 11th 1805
a cloudy morning wind from the East We Set out early and proceeded on
passed a rapid at two miles, at 6 miles we came too at Some Indian
lodges and took brackfast, we purchased all the fish we could and Seven
dogs of those people for Stores of Provisions down the river. at this
place I saw a curious Swet house under ground, with a Small whole at
top to pass in or throw in the hot Stones, which those in threw on as
much water as to create the temporature of heat they wished--at 9 mile
passed a rapid at 15 miles halted at an Indian Lodge, to purchase
provisions of which we precred some of the Pash-he-quar roots five dogs
and a few fish dried, after takeing Some dinner of dog &c we proceeded
on. Came to and encamped at 2 Indian Lodges at a great place of fishing
here we met an Indian of a nation near the mouth of this river.
we purchased three dogs and a fiew fish of those Indians, we Passed
today nine rapids all of then great fishing places, at different places
on the river saw Indian houses and Slabs & Spilt timber raised from the
ground being the different parts of the houses of the natives when they
reside on this river for the purpose of fishing at this time they are
out in the Plain on each side of the river hunting the antilope as we
are informed by our Chiefs, near each of those houses we observe Grave
yards picketed, or pieces of wood stuck in permiscuesly over the grave
or body which is Covered with earth, The Country on either Side is an
open plain leavel & fertile after assending a Steep assent of about 200
feet not a tree of any kind to be Seen on the river The after part of
the day the wind from the S. W. and hard. The day worm.
[Clark, October 12, 1805]
October 12th 1805 Saturday
a fair cool morning wind from E after purchasing all the drid fish
those people would Spear from their hole in which they wer buried we
Set out at 7 oClock and proceeded on
[Clark, October 12, 1805]
October 12th Saturday 1805
A fair Cool morning wind from the East. after purchaseing every Speces
of the provisions those Indians could Spare we Set out and proceeded on
at three miles passed four Islands Swift water and a bad rapid opposit
to those Islands on the Lard. Side. at 141/2 miles passed the mouth of
a large Creek on the Lard Side opposit a Small Island here the Countrey
assends with a gentle assent to the high plains, and the River is 400
yards wide about 1 mile below the Creek on the Same Side took meridian
altitude which gave 72° 30' 00" Latitude produced ____ North in the
afternoon the wind Shifted to the S. W. and blew hard we passed to day
____ rapids Several of them very bad and came to at the head of one (at
30 miles) on the Stard. Side to view it before we attemptd. to dsend
through it. The Indians had told us was verry bad--we found long and
dangerous about 2 miles in length, and maney turns necessary to Stear
Clare of the rocks, which appeared to be in every direction. The
Indians went through & our Small Canoe followed them, as it was late we
deturmined to camp above untill the morning. we passed Several Stoney
Islands today Country as yesterday open plains, no timber of any kind a
fiew Hack berry bushes & willows excepted, and but few drift trees to
be found So that fire wood is verry Scerce--The hills or assents from
the water is faced with a dark ruged Stone. The wind blew hard this
evening.-
[Clark, October 13, 1805]
October 13th Sunday 1805
rained a little before day, and all the morning, a hard wind from the S
West untill 9 oClock, the rained Seased & wind luled, and Capt Lewis
with two Canoes Set out & passed down the rapid The others Soon
followed and we passed over this bad rapid Safe. We Should make more
portages if the Season was not So far advanced and time precious with us
The wife of Shabono our interpetr we find reconsiles all the Indians,
as to our friendly intentions a woman with a party of men is a token of
peace
[Clark, October 13, 1805]
October 13th Sunday 1805
a windey dark raney morning The rain commenced before day and Continued
moderately until) near 12 oClock--we took all our Canoes through This
rapid without any injurey. a little below passed through another bad
rapid at ____ miles passed the Mo. of a large Creek little river in a
Stard. bend, imediately below a long bad rapid; in which the water is
Confined in a Chanel of about 20 yards between rugid rocks for the
distance of a mile and a half and a rapid rockey Chanel for 2 miles
above. This must be a verry bad place in high water, here is great
fishing place, the timbers of Several houses piled up, and a number of
wholes of fish, and the bottom appears to have been made use of as a
place of deposit for their fish for ages past, here two Indians from
the upper foks over took us and continued on down on horse back, two
others were at this mouth of the Creek--we passed a rapid about 9 mile
lower. at dusk came to on the Std. Side & Encamped. The two Inds. on
horse back Stayed with us. The Countery Thro which we passed to day is
Simlar to that of yesterday open plain no timber passed Several houses
evacuated at established fishing places, wind hard from The S. W. in
the evening and not very cold
[Clark, October 14, 1805]
October 14th Monday 1805
a verry Cool morning wind from the West Set out at 8 oClock proceeded on
at this rapid the Canoe a Stern Steared by drewyer Struck a rock turned
the men got out on a rock the Stern of the Canoe took in water and She
Sunk the men on the rock hel her, a number of articles floated all that
Could be Cought were taken by 2 of the othr Canoes, Great many articles
lost among other things 2 of the mens beding Shot pouches Tomahaws &c.
&c. and every article wet of which we have great Cause to lament as all
our loose Powder two Canisters, all our roots prepared in the Indian
way, and one half of our goods, fortunately the lead canisters which
was in the canoe was tied down, otherwise they must have been lost as
the Canoe turned over we got off the men from the rock toed our canoe
on Shore after takeing out all the Stores &c. we Could & put them out
to dry on the Island on which we found Some wood which was covered with
Stones, this is the Parts of an Indian house, which we used for fire
wood, by the wish of our two Chiefs--Those Chees, one of them was in
the Canoe, Swam in & Saved Some property, The Inds. have buried fish on
this Isld. which we are Cautious not to touch. our Small Canoe & three
Indians in another was out of Sight at the time our missfortune
hapined, and did not join us. wind hard S W.
[Clark, October 14, 1805]
October 14th Monday 1805
a Verry Cold morning wind from the West and Cool untill about 12 oClock
When it Shifted to the S. W. at 21/2 miles passed a remarkable rock
verry large and resembling the hull of a Ship Situated on a Lard point
at Some distance from the assending Countrey passed rapids at 6 and 9
miles. at 12 miles we Came too at the head of a rapid which the Indians
told me was verry bad, we viewed the rapid found it bad in decending
three Stern Canoes Stuk fast for Some time on the head of the rapid and
one Struk a rock in the worst part, fortunately all landed Safe below
the rapid which was nearly 3 miles in length. here we dined, and for
the first time for three weeks past I had a good dinner of Blue wing
Teel, after dinner we Set out and had not proceded on two miles before
our Stern Canoe in passing thro a Short rapid opposit the head of an
Island, run on a Smoth rock and turned broad Side, the men got out on
the rock all except one of our Indian Chiefs who Swam on Shore, The
Canoe filed and Sunk a number of articles floated out, Such as the mens
bedding clothes & Skins, the Lodge &c. &c. the greater part of which
were cought by 2 of the Canoes, whilst a 3rd was unloading & Steming
the Swift Current to the relief of the men on the rock who could with
much dificuelty hold the Canoe. however in about an hour we got the men
an Canoe to Shore with the Loss of Some bedding Tomahaws Shot pouches
Skins Clothes &c &c. all wet we had every articles exposed to the Sun
to dry on the Island, our loss in provisions is verry Considerable all
our roots was in the Canoe that Sunk, and Cannot be dried Sufficint to
Save, our loose powder was also in the Canoe and is all wett This I
think, we Shall saved.--In this Island we found some Split timber the
parts of a house which the Indians had verry Securely covered with
Stone, we also observed a place where the Indians had buried there
fish, we have made it a point at all times not to take any thing
belonging to the Indians even their wood. but at this time we are
Compelled to violate that rule and take a part of the Split timber we
find here bured for fire wood, as no other is to be found in any
direction. our Small Canoe which was a head returned at night with 2
ores which they found floating below. The wind this after noon from the
S. W. as usial and hard way of the forks to the Indian Camps at the
first were not one mouthfull to eate untill night as our hunters could
kill nothing and I could See & catch no fish except a few Small ones.
The Indians gave us 2 Sammon boiled which I gave to the men, one of my
men Shot a Sammon in the river about Sunset those fish gave us a
Supper. all the Camp flocked about me untill I went to Sleep--and I
beleve if they had a Sufficency to eate themselves and any to Spare
they would be liberal of it I detected the men to mend their Mockessons
to night and turn out in the morning early to hunt Deer fish birds &c.
&c. Saw great numbers of the large Black grass hopper. Some bars which
were verry wild, but few Birds. a number of ground Lizards; Some fiew
Pigions plainly See a rainge of mountains which bore S. E. & N. W. the
nearest point south about 60 miles, and becoms high toward the N. W.
The plaines on each Side is wavering. Labiesh killed 2 gees & 2 Ducks
of the large kind. at two oClock we loaded & Set out, our Powder &
Provisions of roots not Sufficently dry. we Shall put them out at the
forks or mouth of this river which is at no great distance, and at
which place we Shall delay to make Some Selestial observations &c.
passed Eleven Island and Seven rapids to day. Several of the rapids
verry bad and dificuelt to pass. The Islands of different Sizes and all
of round Stone and Sand, no timber of any kind in Sight of the river, a
fiew Small willows excepted; in the evening the countrey becomes lower
not exceding 90 or 100 feet above the water and back is a wavering
Plain on each Side, passed thro narrows for 3 miles where the Clifts of
rocks juted to the river on each Side compressing the water of the
river through a narrow chanel; below which it widens into a kind of
bason nearly round without any proceptiable current, at the lower part
of this bason is a bad dificuelt and dangerous rapid to pass, at the
upper part of this rapid we over took the three Indians who had Polited
us thro the rapids from the forks. those people with our 2 Chiefs had
proceeded on to this place where they thought proper to delay for us to
warn us of the difficulties of this rapid. we landed at a parcel of
Split timber, the timber of a house of Indians out hunting the Antilope
in the plains; and raised on Scaffolds to Save them from the Spring
floods. here we were obliged for the first time to take the property of
the Indians without the consent or approbation of the owner. the night
was cold & we made use of a part of those boards and Split logs for
fire wood. Killed two teel this evening. Examined the rapids which we
found more dificuelt to pass than we expected from the Indians
information. a Suckcession of Sholes, appears to reach from bank to
bank for 3 miles which was also intersepted with large rocks Sticking
up in every direction, and the chanel through which we must pass
crooked and narrow. we only made 20 miles today, owing to the detention
in passing rapids &c.
[Clark, October 16, 1805]
Oar. 16th 1805 Wednesday
a cool morning Set out early passed the rapid with all the Canoes
except Sgt. Pryors which run on a rock near the lower part of the rapid
and Stuck fast, by the assistance of the 3 other Canoes She was
unloaded and got off the rock without any further injorey than, the
wetting the greater part of her loading--loaded and proceeded on I
walked around this rapid
We halted a Short time above the Point and Smoked with the Indians, &
examined the Point and best place for our Camp, we Camped on the
Columbia River a little above the point I Saw about 200 men Comeing
down from their villages & were turned back by the Chief, after we
built our fires of what wood we Could Collect, & get from the Indians,
the Chief brought down all his men Singing and dancing as they Came,
formed a ring and danced for Some time around us we gave them a Smoke,
and they returned the village a little above, the Chief & Several delay
untill I went to bead. bought 7 dogs & they gave us Several fresh
Salmon & Som horse dried
[Clark, October 16, 1805]
October 16th Wednesday 1805
A cool morning deturmined to run the rapids, put our Indian guide in
front our Small Canoe next and the other four following each other, the
canoes all passed over Safe except the rear Canoe which run fast on a
rock at the lower part of the Rapids, with the early assistance of the
other Canoes & the Indians, who was extreamly ellert every thing was
taken out and the Canoe got off without any enjorie further than the
articles which it was loaded all wet. at 14 miles passed a bad rapid at
which place we unloaded and made a portage of 3/4 of a mile, haveing
passd. 4 Smaller rapids, three Islands and the parts of a house above,
I Saw Indians & Horses on the South Side below. five Indians came up
the river in great haste, we Smoked with them and gave them a piece of
tobacco to Smoke with their people and Sent them back, they Set out in
a run & continued to go as fast as They Could run as far as we Could
See them. after getting Safely over the rapid and haveing taken Diner
Set out and proceeded on Seven miles to the junction of this river and
the Columbia which joins from the N. W. passd. a rapid two Islands and
a graveley bare, and imediately in the mouth a rapid above an Island.
In every direction from the junction of those rivers the Countrey is
one Continued plain low and rises from the water gradually, except a
range of high Countrey which runs from S. W & N E and is on the opposit
Side about 2 miles distant from the Collumbia and keeping its detection
S W untill it joins a S W. range of mountains.
We halted above the point on the river Kimooenim to Smoke with the
Indians who had collected there in great numbers to view us, here we
met our 2 Chiefs who left us two days ago and proceeded on to this
place to inform those bands of our approach and friendly intentions
towards all nations &c. we also met the 2 men who had passed us Several
days ago on hors back, one of them we observed was a man of great
influence with those Indians, harranged them; after Smokeing with the
Indians who had collected to view us we formed a camp at the point near
which place I Saw a fiew pieces of Drift wood after we had our camp
fixed and fires made, a Chief came from their Camp which was about 1/4
of a mile up the Columbia river at the head of about 200 men Singing
and beeting on their drums Stick and keeping time to the musik, they
formed a half circle around us and Sung for Some time, we gave them all
Smoke, and Spoke to their Chiefs as well as we could by Signs informing
them of our friendly disposition to all nations, and our joy in Seeing
those of our Children around us, Gave the principal chief a large Medal
Shirt and Handkf. a 2nd Chief a Meadel of Small Size, and to the Cheif
who came down from the upper villages a Small Medal & Handkerchief.
The Chiefs then returned with the men to their camp; Soon after we
purchased for our Provisions Seven Dogs, Some fiew of those people made
us presents of fish and Several returned and delayed with us untill
bedtime--The 2 old Chiefs who accompanied us from the head of the river
precured us Some full Such as the Stalks of weed or plant and willow
bushes--one man made me a present of a about 20 lb. of verry fat Dried
horse meat.
Great quantities of a kind of prickley pares, much worst than any I
have before Seen of a tapering form and attach themselves by bunches.
[Clark, October 17, 1805]
October 17th Thursday 1805 Forks of Columbia
This morning after the Luner observations, the old chief came down, and
Several men with dogs to Sell & womin with fish &c. the Dogs we
purchased the fish not good.
I took 2 men and Set out in a Small Canoe with a view to go as high up
the Columbia river as the 1st forks which the Indians made Signs was
but a Short distance, I set out at 2 oClock firs course was N. 83° W 6
miles to the lower point of a Island on the Lard. Side, passed an
Island in the middle of the river at 5 miles, at the head of which is a
rapid not bad at this rapid 3 Lodges of mats on the Lard emenc
quantites of dried fish, then West 4 miles to the Lower point of an
Island on the Stard. Side, 2 lodges of Indians large and built of mats-
passed 3 verry large mat lodges at 2 mile on the Stard Side large
Scaffols of fish drying at every lodge, and piles of Salmon lying. the
Squars engaged prepareing them for the Scaffol--a Squar gave me a dried
Salmon from those lodes on the Island an Indian Showed me the mouth of
the river which falls in below a high hill on the Lard. N. 80° W. 8 miles
from the Island. The river bending Lard.--This river is remarkably
Clear and Crouded with Salmon in maney places, I observe in assending
great numbers of Salmon dead on the Shores, floating on the water and
in the Bottoms which can be seen at the debth of 20 feet. the Cause of
the emence numbers of dead Salmon I can't account for So it is I must
have seen 3 or 400 dead and maney living the Indians, I believe make
use of the fish which is not long dead as, I Struck one nearly dead and
left him floating, Some Indians in a canoe behind took the fish on
board his canoe
The bottoms on the South Side as high as the Tarcouche tesse is from 1
to 2 miles wide, back of the bottoms rises to hilly countrey, the Plain
is low on the North & Easte for a great distance no wood to be Seen in
any direction.
The Tarcouche tesse bears South of West, the Columbia N W above range
of hills on the West Parrelel a range of mountains to the East which
appears to run nearly North & South distance not more than 50 miles--I
returned to the point at Dusk followed by three canoes of Indians 20 in
number--I killed a Fowl of the Pheasent kind as large as a turkey. The
length from his Beeck to the end of its tail 2 feet 6--3/4 Inches, from
the extremity of its wings across 3 feet 6 Inches. the tail feathers 13
Inches long, feeds on grass hoppers, and the Seed of wild Isoop 6
Those Indians are orderly, badly dressed in the Same fashions of those
above except the women who wore Short Shirts and a flap over them 22
Fishing houses of Mats robes of Deer, Goat & Beaver.
[Clark, October 17, 1805]
October 17th Thursday 1805
A fair morning made the above observations during which time the
principal Chief came down with Several of his principal men and Smoked
with us. Several men and woman offered Dogs and fish to Sell, we
purchased all the dogs we could, the fish being out of Season and
dieing in great numbers in the river, we did not think proper to use
them, Send out Hunters to Shute the Prarie Cock a large fowl which I
have only Seen on this river; Several of which I have killed, they are
the Size of a Small turkey, of the pheasant kind, one I killed on the
water edge to day measured from the Beek to the end of the toe 2 feet 6
& 3/4 Inches; from the extremities of its wings 3 feet 6 inches; the
tale feathers is 13 inches long; they feed on grasshoppers and the Seed
of the wild plant which is also peculiar to this river and the upper
parts of the Missoury somewhat resembling the whins-. Capt. Lewis took
a vocabelary of the Language of those people who call themselves So
hulk, and also one of the language of a nation resideing on a Westerly
fork of the Columbia which mouthes a fiew miles above this place who
Call themselves Chim na pum Some fiew of this nation reside with the So
kulks nation, Their language differ but little from either the Sokulks
or the Cho-pun-nish (or pierced nose) nation which inhabit the
Koskoskia river and Lewis's R below.
I took two men in a Small Canoe and assended the Columbia river 10
miles to an Island near the Stard. Shore on which two large Mat Lodges
of Indians were drying Salmon, (as they informed me by Signs for the
purpose of food and fuel, & I do not think at all improbable that those
people make use of Dried fish as fuel,) The number of dead Salmon on
the Shores & floating in the river is incrediable to Say and at this
Season they have only to collect the fish Split them open and dry them
on their Scaffolds on which they have great numbers, how far they have
to raft their timber they make their Scaffolds of I could not lern; but
there is no timber of any Sort except Small willow bushes in Sight in
any directionfrom this Island the natives showed me the enterance of a
large Westerly fork which they Call Tapetett at about 8 miles distant,
the evening being late I deturmined to return to the forks, at which
place I reached at Dark. from the point up the Columbia River is N. 83°
W. 6 miles to the lower point of an Island near the Lard. Side passed a
Island in the middle of the river at 5 miles at the head of which is a
rapid, not dangerous on the Lard Side opposit to this rapid is a
fishing place 3 Mat Lodges, and great quants. of Salmon on Scaffolds
drying. Saw great numhers of Dead Salmon on the Shores and floating in
the water, great numbers of Indians on the banks viewing me and 18
canoes accompanied me from the point--The Waters of this river is
Clear, and a Salmon may be Seen at the deabth of 15 or 20 feet. West 4
miles to the lower point of a large Island near the Stard. Side at 2
Lodges, passed three large lodges on the Stard Side near which great
number of Salmon was drying on Scaffolds one of those Mat lodges I
entered found it crouded with men women and children and near the
enterance of those houses I saw maney Squars engaged Splitting and
drying Salmon. I was furnished with a mat to Sit on, and one man Set
about prepareing me Something to eate, first he brought in a piece of a
Drift log of pine and with a wedge of the elks horn, and a malet of
Stone curioesly Carved he Split the log into Small pieces and lay'd it
open on the fire on which he put round Stones, a woman handed him a
basket of water and a large Salmon about half Dried, when the Stones
were hot he put them into the basket of water with the fish which was
Soon Suflicently boiled for use. it was then taken out put on a platter
of rushes neetly made, and Set before me they boiled a Salmon for each
of the men with me, dureing those preperations, I Smoked with those
about me who Chose to Smoke which was but fiew, this being a custom
those people are but little accustomed to and only Smok thro form.
after eateing the boiled fish which was delicious, I Set out & halted
or came too on the Island at the two Lodges. Several fish was given to
me, in return for Which I gave Small pieces of ribbond from those
Lodges the natives Showed me the mouth of Tap teel River about 8 miles
above on the west Side this western fork appears to beare nearly West,
The main Columbia river N W.--a range of high land to the S W and
parralal to the river and at the distance of 2 miles on the Lard. Side,
the countrey low on the Stard. Side, and all Coverd. with a weed or
plant about 2 & three feet high and resembles the whins. I can proceive
a range of mountains to the East which appears to bare N. & South
distant about 50 or 60 miles. no wood to be Seen in any derection--On
my return I was followd. by 3 canoes in which there was 20 Indians I
shot a large Prairie Cock Several Grouse, Ducks and fish. on my return
found Great Numbr. of the nativs with Capt Lewis, men all employd in
dressing ther Skins mending their clothes and putting ther arms in the
best order the latter being always a matter of attention with us. The
Dress of those natives differ but little from those on the Koskoskia
and Lewis's rivers, except the women who dress verry different in as
much as those above ware long leather Shirts which highly ornimented
with heeds Shells &c. &c. and those on the main Columbia river only
ware a truss or pece of leather tied around them at their hips and
drawn tite between ther legs and fastened before So as barly to hide
those parts which are So Sacredly hid & Scured by our women. Those
women are more inclined to Copulency than any we have yet Seen, with
low Stature broad faces, heads flatened and the foward compressed so as
to form a Streight line from the nose to the Crown of the head, their
eyes are of a Duskey black, their hair of a corse black without
orniments of any kind braded as above, The orniments of each Sects are
Similar, Such as large blue & white beeds, either pendant from their
ears or encircling their necks, or wrists & arms. they also ware
bracelets of Brass, Copper & horn, and trinkets of Shells, fish bones
and curious feathers. Their garments Consists of a short Shirt of
leather and a roabe of the Skins of Deer or the Antilope but fiew of
them ware Shirts all have Short robes. Those people appears to live in
a State of comparitive happiness; they take a greater Share labor of
the woman, than is common among Savage tribes, and as I am informd.
Content with one wife (as also those on the Ki moo e nim river) Those
people respect the aged with veneration, I observed an old woman in one
of the Lodges which I entered She was entirely blind as I was informed
by Signs, had lived more than 100 winters, She occupied the best
position in the house, and when She Spoke great attention was paid to
what She Said-. Those people as also those of the flat heads which we
had passed on the Koskoske and Lewis's rivers are Subject to Sore eyes,
and maney are blind of one and Some of both eyes. this misfortune must
be owing to the reflections of the Sun &c. on the waters in which they
are continually fishing during the Spring Summer & fall, & the Snows
dureing the, winter Seasons, in this open countrey where the eye has no
rest. I have observed amongst those, as well in all other tribes which
I have passed on these waters who live on fish maney of different
Sectes who have lost their teeth about middle age, Some have their
teeth worn to the gums, perticelar those of the upper jaws, and the
tribes generally have bad teeth the cause of it I cannot account sand
attachd. to the roots &c the method they have of useing the dri'd
Salmon, which is mearly worming it and eating the rine & Scales with
the flesh of the fish, no doubt contributes to it
The Houses or Lodges of the tribes of the main Columbia river is of
large mats made of rushes, Those houses are from 15 to 60 feet in
length generally of an Oblong Squar form, Suported by poles on forks in
the iner Side, Six feet high, the top is covered also with mats
leaveing a Seperation in the whole length of about 12 or 15 inches
wide, left for the purpose of admitting light and for the Smok of the
fire to pass which is made in the middle of the house.--The roughfs are
nearly flat, which proves to me that rains are not common in this open
Countrey
Those people appeare of a mild disposition and friendly disposedThey
have in their huts independant of their nets gigs & fishing tackling
each bows & large quivers of arrows on which they use flint Spikes.
Theire ammusements are Similar to those of the Missouri. they are not
beggerley and receive what is given them with much joy.
I saw but flew horses they appeared make but little use of those
animals principally useing Canoes for their uses of procureing food &c.
[Clark, October 18, 1805]
October 18th Friday 1805
a cold morning faire & wind from S E Several Heath hens or large
Pheasents lit near us & the men killed Six of them.
Took one altitude of the Suns upper Limb 28° 22' 15" at h m s 8 1 24 A.M.
Several Indian Canoes Come down & joind those with us, made a Second
Chief by giveing a meadel & wampom I also gave a String of wampom to
the old Chief who came down with us and informed the Indians of our
views and intentions in a council
Measured the width of the Columbia River, from the Point across to a
Point of view is S 22° W from the Point up the Columa to a Point of view
is N. 84° W. 148 poles, thence across to the 1st point of view is S 281/2
E
Measured the width of Ki moo e nim River, from the Point across to an
object on the opposit side is N. 411/2 E from the Point up the river is
N. 8 E. 82 poles thence accross to the Point of view is N. 79° East