Cherris for us half the men of the tribe with the Chief turned out to
hunt the antilopes, at 3 oClock after giveing a fiew Small articles as
presents I set out accompanied by an old man as a Guide (I endevered to
procure as much information from thos people as possible without much
Suckcess they being but little acquainted or effecting to be So-) I lef
one man to purchase a horse and overtake me and proceeded on thro a
wide rich bottom on a beaten Roade 8 miles Crossed the river and
encamped on a Small run, this evening passed a number of old lodges,
and met a number of men women children & horses, met a man who appeared
of Some Consideration who turned back with us, he halted a woman & gave
us 3 Small Sammon, this man continued with me all night and partook of
what I had which was a little Pork verry Salt. Those Indians are verry
attentive to Strangers &c. I left our interpreter & his woman to
accompany the Indians to Capt Lewis tomorrow the Day they informed me
they would Set out I killed a Pheasent at the Indian Camp larger than a
dungal fowl with feshey protuberances about the head like a turkey.
Frost last night
[Lewis, August 21, 1805]
Wednesday August 21st 1805.
This morning was very cold. the ice 1/4 of an inch thick on the water
which stood in the vessels exposed to the air. some wet deerskins that
had been spread the grass last evening are stiffly frozen. the ink
feizes in my pen. the bottoms are perfectly covered with frost insomuch
that they appear to be covered with snow. This morning early I
dispatched two hunters to kill some meat if possible before the Indians
arrive; Drewyer I sent with the horse into the cove for that purpose.
The party pursued their several occupations as yesterday. by evening I
had all the baggage, saddles, and harness completely ready for a march.
after dark, I made the men take the baggage to the cash and deposit it.
I beleve we have been unperceived by the Indians in this movement.
notwithstanding the coldness of the last night the day has proved
excessively warm. neither of the hunters returned this evening and I
was obliged to issue pork and corn. The mockersons of both sexes are
usually the same and are made of deer Elk or buffaloe skin dressed
without the hair. sometimes in the winter they make them of buffaloe
skin dressed with the hair on and turn the hair inwards as the Mandans
Minetares and most of the nations do who inhabit the buffaloe country.
the mockerson is formed with one seem on the outer edge of the foot is
cut open at the instep to admit the foot and sewed up behind. in this
rispect they are the same with the Mandans. they sometimes ornament
their mockersons with various figures wrought with the quills of the
Porcupine. some of the dressey young men orniment the tops of their
mockersons with the skins of polecats and trale the tail of that animal
on the ground at their heels as they walk.the robe of the woman is
generally smaller than that of the man but is woarn in the same manner
over the sholders. the Chemise is roomy and comes down below the middle
of the leg the upper part of this garment is formed much like the shirt
of the men except the sholder strap which is never used with the
Chemise. in women who give suck, they are left open at the sides nearly
as low as the waist, in others, close as high as the sleeve. the sleeve
underneath as low as the elbow is open, that part being left very full.
the sides tail and upper part of the sleeves are deeply fringed and
sometimes ornimented in a similar manner with the shirts of the men
with the addition of little patches of red cloth about the tail edged
around with beads. the breast is usually ornament with various figures
of party colours rought with the quills of the Porcupine. it is on this
part of the garment that they appear to exert their greatest ingenuity.
a girdle of dressed leather confines the Chemise around the waist. when
either the man or woman wish to disengage their arm from the sleeve
they draw it out by means of the opening underneath the arm an throw
the sleeve behind the body. the legings of the women reach as high as
the knee and are confined with a garter below. the mockerson covers and
confins it's lower extremity. they are neither fringed nor ornamented.
these legings are made of the skins of the antelope and the Chemise
usually of those of the large deer Bighorn and the smallest elk.--They
seldom wear the beads they possess about their necks at least I have
never seen a grown person of either sex wear them on this part; some
their children are seen with them in this way. the men and women were
them suspen from the ear in little bunches or intermixed with
triangular peices of the shells of the perl oister. the men also were
them attached in a similar manner to the hare of the fore part of the
crown of the head; to which they sometimes make the addition of the
wings and tails of birds. the nose in neither sex is pierced nor do
they wear any ornament in it. they have a variety of small sea shells
of which they form collars woarn indiscriminately by both sexes. these
as well as the shell of the perl oister they value very highly and
inform us that they obtain them from their friends and relations who
live beyond the barren plain towards the Ocean in a S. Westerly
direction. these friends of theirs they say inhabit a good country
abounding with Elk, deer, bear, and Antelope, and possess a much
greater number of horses and mules than they do themselves; or using
their own figure that their horses and mules are as numerous as the
grass of the plains. the warriors or such as esteem themselves brave
men wear collars made of the claws of the brown bear which are also
esteemed of great value and are preserved with great care. these claws
are ornamented with beads about the thick end near which they are
peirced through their sides and strung on a throng of dressed leather
and tyed about the neck commonly with the upper edge of the tallon next
the breast or neck but sometimes are reversed. it is esteemed by them
an act of equal celebrity the killing one of these bear or an enimy,
and with the means they have of killing this animal it must really be a
serious undertaking. the sweet sented grass which grows very abundant
on this river is either twisted or plaited and woarn around the neck in
ether sex, but most commonly by the men. they have a collar also woarn
by either sex. it generally round and about the size of a man's finger;
formed of leather or silk-grass twisted or firmly rolled and covered
with the quills of the porcupine of different colours. the tusks of the
Elk are pierced strung on a throng and woarn as an orniment for the
neck, and is most generally woarn by the women and children. the men
frequently wear the skin of a fox or a broad strip of that of the otter
around the forehead and head in form of a bando. they are also fond of
the feathers of the tail of the beautifull eagle or callumet birds with
which they ornament their own hair and the tails and mains of their
horses. The dress of these people is quite as desent and convenient as
that of any nation of Indians I ever saw.
This morning early Capt. C. resumed his march; at the distance of five
miles he arrived at some brush lodges of the Shoshones inhabited by
about seven families here he halted and was very friendly received by
these people, who gave himself and party as much boiled salmon as they
could eat; they also gave him several dryed salmon and a considerable
quantity of dryed chokecherries. after smoking with them he visited
their fish wear which was abut 200 yds. distant. he found the wear
extended across four channels of the river which was here divided by
three small islands. three of these channels were narrow, and were
stoped by means of trees fallen across, supported by which stakes of
willow were driven down sufficiently near each other to prevent the
salmon from passing. about the center of each a cilindric basket of
eighteen or 20 feet in length terminating in a conic shape at it's
lower extremity, formed of willows, was opposed to a small apperture in
the wear with it's mouth up stream to receive the fish. the main
channel of the water was conducted to this basket, which was so narrow
at it's lower extremity that the fish when once in could not turn
itself about, and were taken out by untying the small ends of the
longitudinal willows, which frormed the hull of the basket. the wear in
the main channel was somewhat differently contrived. there were two
distinct wears formed of poles and willow sticks, quite across the
river, at no great distance from each other. each of these, were
furnished with two baskets; the one wear to take them ascending and the
other in decending. in constructing these wears, poles were first tyed
together in parcels of three near the smaller extremity; these were set
on end, and spread in a triangular form at the base, in such manner,
that two of the three poles ranged in the direction of the intended
work, and the third down the stream. two ranges of horizontal poles
were next lashed with willow bark and wythes to the ranging poles, and
on these willow sticks were placed perpendicularly, reaching from the
bottom of the river to about 3 or four feet above it's surface; and
placed so near each other, as not to permit the passage of the fish,
and even so thick in some parts, as with the help of gravel and stone
to give a direction to the water which they wished.--the baskets were
the same in form of the others. this is the form of the work, and
disposition of the baskets.
After examining the wears Capt. C. returned to the lodges, and shortly
continued his rout and passed the river to the Lard. side a little
distance below the wears. he sent Collins with an Indian down the Lard.
side of the river to the forks 5 me. in surch of Cruzatte who was left
at the upper camp yesterday to purchase a horse and had followed on
today and passed them by another road while they were at the lodges and
had gone on to the forks. while Capt. Clark was at these lodges an
Indian brought him a tomehawk which he said he found in the grass near
the lodge where I had staid at the upper camp when I was first with his
nation the tommahawk was Drewyer's he missed it in the morning before
we had set out and surched for it but it was not to be found I beleive
the young fellow stole it, but if he did it is the only article they
have pilfered and this was now returned. Capt. C. after traveling about
20 miles through the valley with the course of the river nearly N. W.
encamped on the Stard. side in a small bottom under a high Clift of
rocks. on his way one of the party killed a very large Salmon in a
creek which they passed at the distance of 14 ms. he was joined this
evening by Cruzatte and Collins who brought with them five fresh salmon
which had been given them by the Indians at the forks. the forks of
this river is famous as a gig fishery and is much resorted by the
natives.--They killed one deer today. The Guide apeared to be a very
friendly intelligent old man, Capt. C. is much pleased with him.
[Clark, August 21, 1805]
August 21st Wednesday 1805
Frost last night proceeded on with the Indians I met about 5 miles to
there Camp, I entered a lodge and after Smokeing with all who Came
about me I went to See the place those people take the fish, a wear
across the Creek in which there is Stuk baskets Set in different
derections So as to take the fish either decending or assending on my
return to the Camp which was 200 yards only the different lodges (which
is only bushes) brought in to the lodge I was introduced into, Sammon
boiled, and dried Choke Chers. Sufficent for all my party.--one man
brought me a tomahawk which we expected they had Stolen from a man of
Capt Lewis's party, this man informed me he found the tomk in the grass
near the place the man Slept. Crossed the River and went over a point
of high land & Struck it again near a Bluff on the right Side the man I
left to get a horse at the upper Camp missed me & went to the forks
which is about five miles below the last Camp.
I sent one man by the forks with derections to join me to night with
the one now at that place, those two men joined me at my Camp on the
right Side below the 1st Clift with 5 Sammon which the Indians gave
them at the forks, the place they gig fish at this Season. Their method
of takeing fish with a gig or bone is with a long pole, about a foot
from one End is a Strong String attached to the pole, this String is a
little more than a foot long and is tied to the middle of a bone from 4
to 6 inches long, one end Sharp the other with a whole to fasten on the
end of the pole with a beard to the large end, the fasten this bone on
one end & with the other, feel for the fish & turn and Strike them So
hard that the bone passes through and Catches on the opposit Side,
Slips off the End of the pole and holds the Center of the bone Those
Indians are mild in their disposition appear Sincere in their
friendship, punctial, and decided. kind with what they have, to Spare.
They are excessive pore, nothing but horses there Enemies which are
noumerous on account of there horses & Defenceless Situation, have
Deprived them of tents and all the Small Conveniances of life. They
have only a few indifferent Knives, no ax, make use of Elk's horn
Sharpened to Spit ther wood, no clothes except a Short Legins & robes
of different animals, Beaver, Bear, Buffalow, wolf Panthor, Ibex, Sheep
Deer, but most commonly the antilope Skins which they ware loosely
about them--Their ornements are Orter Skin dcurated with See Shells &
the Skins & tales of the white weasel, Sea Shels of different size hung
to their Ears hair and breast of their Shirts, beeds of Shells platted
grass, and Small Strings of otter Skin dressed, they are fond of our
trinkets, and give us those ornements as the most valueable of their
possession. The women are held Sacred and appear to have an equal Shere
in all Conversation, which is not the Case in any othe nation I have
Seen. their boeys & Girls are also admited to Speak except in Councils,
the women doe all the drugery except fishing and takeing care of the
horses, which the men apr. to take upon themselves.--The men ware the
hair loose flowing over ther Sholders & face the women Cut Short,
orniments of the back bones of fish Strung plated grass grains of Corn
Strung Feathers and orniments of Birds Claws of the Bear encurcling
their necks the most Sacred of all the orniments of this nation is the
Sea Shells of various Sizes and Shapes and colours, of the bassterd
perl kind, which they inform us they get from the Indians to the South
on the other Side of a large fork of this river in passing to which
they have to pass thro Sandy & barron open plains without water to
which place they can travel in 15 or 20 days--The men who passed by the
forks informed me that the S W. fork was double the Size of the one I
came down, and I observed that it was a handsom river at my camp I
shall injustice to Capt Lewis who was the first white man ever on this
fork of the Columbia Call this Louis's river. one Deer killed this
morning, and a Sammon in the last Creek 21/2 feet long The Westerley
fork of the Columbia River is double the Size of the Easterley fork &
below those forks the river is about the Size Jeffersons River near its
mouth or 100 yards wide, it is verry rapid & Sholey water Clear but
little timber. This Clift is of a redish brown Colour the rocks which
fall from it is a dark brown flint tinged with that Colour. Some
Gullies of white Sand Stone and Sand fine & as white as Snow. The
mountains on each Side are high, and those on the East ruged & Contain
a fiew Scattering pine, those on the West contain pine on ther tops &
high up the hollows--The bottoms of this is wide & rich from some
distance above the place I struck the East fork they are also wide on
the East Passed a large Creek which fall in on the right Side 6 miles
below the forks a road passes up this Creek & to the Missouri.
[Lewis, August 22, 1805]
Thursday August 22ed 1805
This morning early I sent a couple of men to complete the covering of
the cash which could not be done well last night in the dark, they soon
accomplished their work and returned. late last night Drewyer returned
with a fawn he had killed and a considerable quantity of Indian
plunder. the anecdote with rispect to the latter is perhaps worthy of
relation. he informed me that while hunting in the Cove yesterday about
12 OCk. he came suddonly upon an Indian Camp, at which there were a
young man an Old man a boy and three women, that they seemed but little
supprised at seeing him and he rode up to them and dismounted turning
horse out to graize. these people had just finished their repast on
some roots, he entered into conversation with them by signs, and after
about 20 minutes one of the women spoke to the others of the party and
they all went immediately and collected their horses brought them to
camp and saddled them at this moment he thought he would also set out
and continue his hunt, and accorgingly walked to catch his horse at
some little distance and neglected to take up his gun which, he left at
camp. the Indians perceiving him at the distance of fifty paces
immediately mounted their horses, the young man took the gun and the
whole of them left their baggage and laid whip to their horses
directing their course to the pass of the mountains. finding himself
deprived of his gun he immediately mounted his horse and pursued; after
runing them about 10 miles the horses of two of the women nearly gave
out and the young fellow with the gun from their frequent crys
slackened his pace and being on a very fleet horse road around the
women at a little distance at length Drewer overtook the women and by
signs convinced them that he did not wish to hirt them they then halted
and the young fellow approached still nearer, he asked him for his gun
but the only part of the answer which he could understand was pah kee
which he knew to be the name by which they called their enimies.
watching his opportunity when the fellow was off his guard he suddonly
rode along side of him seized his gun and wrest her out of his hands.
the fellow finding Drewyer too strong for him and discovering that he
must yeald the gun had pesents of mind to open the pan and cast the
priming before he let the gun escape from his hands; now finding
himself devested of the gun he turned his horse about and laid whip
leaving the women to follow him as well as they could. Drewyer now
returned to the place they had left their baggage and brought it with
him to my camp. it consisted of several dressed and undressed skins; a
couple of bags wove with the fingers of the bark of the silk-grass
containing each about a bushel of dryed service berries some checherry
cakes and about a bushel of roots of three different kinds dryed and
prepared for uce which were foalded in as many parchment hides of
buffaloe. some flint and the instrument of bone for manufactureing the
flint into arrow points. some of this flint was as transparent as the
common black glass and much of the same colour easily broken, and
flaked off much like glass leaving a very sharp edge. one speceis of
the roots were fusiform abot six inches long and about the size of a
man's finger at the larger end tapering to a small point. the radicles
larger than in most fusiform roots. the rind was white and thin. the
body or consistence of the root was white mealy and easily reduced by
pounding to a substance resembleing flour which thickens with boiling
water something like flour and is agreeably flavored. this rout is
frequently eaten by the Indians either green or in it's dryed state
without the preparation of boiling. another speceis was much mutilated
but appeared to be fibrous; the parts were brittle, hard of the size of
a small quill, cilindric and as white as snow throughout, except some
small parts of the hard black rind which they had not seperated in the
preperation. this the Indians with me informed were always boiled for
use. I made the exprement, found that they became perfectly soft by
boiling, but had a very bitter taste, which was naucious to my pallate,
and I transfered them to the Indians who had eat them heartily. a third
speceis were about the size of a nutmeg, and of an irregularly rounded
form, something like the smallest of the Jerusalem artichoke, which
they also resemble in every other appearance. they had become very hard
by being dryed these I also boiled agreeably to the instruction of the
Indians and found them very agreeable. they resemble the Jerusalem
Artichoke very much in their flavor and I thought them preferable,
however there is some allowance to be made for the length of time I
have now been without vegitable food to which I was always much
attatched. these are certainly the best root I have yet seen in uce
among the Indians. I asked the Indians to shew me the plant of which
these roots formed a part but they informed me that neither of them
grew near this place. I had set most of the men at work today to dress
the deerskin belonging to those who had gone on command with Capt.
Clark. at 11 A.M. Charbono the Indian Woman, Cameahwait and about 50
men with a number of women and children arrived. they encamped near us.
after they had turned out their horses and arranged their camp I called
the Cheifs and warriors together and addressed them a second time; gave
them some further presents, particularly the second and third Cheifs
who it appeared had agreeably to their promise exerted themselves in my
favour. having no fresh meat and these poor devils half starved I had
previously prepared a good meal for them all of boiled corn and beans
which I gave them as soon as the council was over and I had distributed
the presents. this was thankfully received by them. the Chief wished
that his nation could live in a country where they could provide such
food. I told him that it would not be many years before the whitemen
would put it in the power of his nation to live in the country below
the mountains where they might cultivate corn beans and squashes. he
appeared much pleased with the information. I gave him a few dryed
squashes which we had brought from the Mandans he had them boiled and
declared them to be the best thing he had ever tasted except sugar, a
small lump of which it seems his sister Sah-cah-gar Wea had given him.
late in the evening I made the men form a bush drag, and with it in
about 2 hours they caught 528 very good fish, most of them large trout.
among them I now for the first time saw ten or a douzen of a whte
speceis of trout. they are of a silvery colour except on the back and
head, where they are of a bluish cast. the scales are much larger than
the speckled trout, but in their form position of their fins teeth
mouth &c they are precisely like them they are not generally quite as
large but equally well flavored. I distributed much the greater portion
of the fish among the Indians. I purchased five good horses of them
very reasonably, or at least for about the value of six dollars a peice
in merchandize. the Indians are very orderly and do not croud about our
camp nor attempt to disterb any article they see lying about. they
borrow knives kettles &c from the men and always carefully return them.
Capt. Clark says, "we set out early and passed a small creek at one
mile, also the points of four mountains which were high steep and
rocky. the mountains are so steep that it is almost incredible to
mention that horses had passed them. our road in many places lay over
the sharp fragments of rocks which had fallen from the mountains and
lay in confused heaps for miles together; yet notwithstanding our
horsed traveled barefoot over them as fast as we could and did not
detain us. passed two bold runing streams, and arrived at the entrance
of a small river" where some Indian families resided. they had some
scaffoalds of fish and burries exposed to dry. they were not acquainted
with the circumstance of any whitemen being in their country and were
therefore much allarmed on our approach several of the women and
children fled in the woods for shelter. the guide was behind and the
wood thick in which their lodges were situated we came on them before
they had the least notice of us. those who remained offered us every
thing they had, which was but little; they offered us collars of elks
tusks which their children woar Salmon beries &c. we eat some of their
fish and buries but returned them the other articles they had offered
with a present of some small articles which seemed to add much to their
pacification.
The guide who had by this time arrived explained to them who we were
and our object in visiting them; but still there were some of the women
and Children inconsoleable, they continued to cry during our stay,
which was about an hour. a road passes up this river which my guide
informed me led over the mountains to the Missouri. from this place I
continued my rout along the steep side of a mountain for about 3 miles
and arrived at the river near a small Island on the lower point of
which we encamped in the evening we attempted to gig fish but were
unsuccessfull only obtaining one small salmon. in the course of the day
we had passed several women and children geathering burries who were
very liberal in bestoing us a part of their collections. the river is
very rapid and shoaly; many rocks lie in various derections scattered
throughout it's bed. There are some few small pine scattered through
the bottoms, of which I only saw one which appeared as if it would
answer for a canoe and that was but small. the tops of the mountains on
the Lard. side are covered with pine and some also scattered on the
sides of all the mountains. I saw today a speceis of woodpecker, which
fed on the seeds of the pine. it's beak and tail were white, it's wings
were black, and every other part of a dark brown. it was about the size
of a robin-
[Clark, August 22, 1805]
August 22d Thursday 1805
We Set out early passed a Small Creek on the right at 1 mile and the
points of four mountains verry Steap high & rockey, the assent of three
was So Steap that it is incrediable to describe the rocks in maney
places loose & Sliped from those mountains and is a bed of rugid loose
white and dark brown loose rock for miles. the Indian horses pass over
those Clifts hills Sids & rocks as fast as a man, the three horses with
me do not detain me any on account of those dificuelties, passed two
bold rung. Streams on the right and a Small river at the mouth of Which
Several families of Indians were encamped and had Several Scaffolds of
fish & buries drying we allarmed them verry much as they knew nothing
of a white man being in their Countrey, and at the time we approached
their lodges which was in a thick place of bushes-my guiedes were
behind.--They offered every thing they possessed (which was verry
littl) to us, Some run off and hid in the bushes The first offer of
theirs were Elks tuskes from around their Childrens necks, Sammon &c.
my guide attempted passifyed those people and they Set before me
berres, & fish to eate, I gave a fiew Small articles to those fritened
people which added verry much to their pasification but not entirely as
Some of the women & Childn. Cried dureing my Stay of an hour at this
place, I proceeded on the Side of a verry Steep & rockey mountain for 3
miles and Encamped on the lower pt. of an Island. we attempted to gig
fish without Suckcess. caught but one Small one.The last Creek or Small
river is on the right Side and "a road passes up it & over to the
Missouri" in this day passed Several womin and Children gathering and
drying buries of which they were very kind and gave us a part. the
river rapid and Sholey maney Stones Scattered through it in different
directions. I Saw to day Bird of the wood pecker kind which fed on Pine
burs its Bill and tale white the wings black every other part of a
light brown, and about the Size of a robin. Some fiew Pine Scattered in
the bottoms & Sides of the Mountains (the Top of the Motn. to the left
Covered & inaxcessable) I Saw one which would make a Small Canoe.
[Lewis, August 23, 1805]
Friday August 23rd 1805.
This morning I arrose very early and despatched two hunters on
horseback with orders to extend their hunt to a greater distance up the
S. E. fork than they had done heretofore, in order if possible to
obtain some meet for ourselves as well as the Indians who appeared to
depend on us for food and our store of provision is growing too low to
indulge them with much more corn or flour. I wished to have set out
this morning but the cheef requested that I would wait untill another
party of his nation arrived which he expected today, to this I
consented from necessity, and therefore sent out the hunters as I have
mentioned. I also laid up the canoes this morning in a pond near the
forks; sunk them in the water and weighted them down with stone, after
taking out the plugs of the gage holes in their bottoms; hoping by this
means to guard against both the effects of high water, and that of the
fire which is frequently kindled in these plains by the natives. the
Indians have promised to do them no intentional injury and beleive they
are too lazy at any rate to give themselves the trouble to raise them
from their present situation in order to cut or birn them. I reminded
the chief of the low state of our stores of provision and advised him
to send his young men to hunt, which he immediately recommended to them
and most of them turned out. I wished to have purchased some more
horses of them but they objected against disposing of any more of them
untill we reach their camp beyond the mountains. the Indians pursued a
mule buck near our camp I saw this chase for about 4 miles it was
really entertaining, there were about twelve of them in pursuit of it
on horseback, they finally rode it down and killed it. the all came in
about 1 P.M. having killed 2 mule deer and three goats. this mule buck
was the largest deer of any kind I had ever seen. it was nearly as
large as a doe Elk. I observed that there was but little division or
distribution of the meat they had taken among themselves. some familes
had a large stock and others none. this is not customary among the
nations of Indians with whom I have hitherto been acquainted I asked
Cameahwait the reason why the hunters did not divide the meat among
themselves; he said that meat was so scarce with them that the men who
killed it reserved it for themselves and their own families. my hunters
arrived about 2 in the evening with two mule deer and three common
deer. I distributed three of the deer among those families who appeared
to have nothing to eat. at three P.M. the expected party of Indians
arrived, about 50 men women and Children. I now learnt that most of
them were thus far on their way down the valley towards the buffaloe
country, and observed that there was a good deel of anxiety on the part
of some of those who had promised to assist me over the mountains to
accompany this party, I felt some uneasiness on this subject but as
they still said they would return with me as they had promised I said
nothing to them but resolved to set out in the morning as early as
possible. I dispatched two hunters this evening into the cove to hunt
and leave the meat they might kill on the rout we shall pass tomorrow.
The metal which we found in possession of these people consited of a
few indifferent knives, a few brass kettles some arm bands of iron and
brass, a few buttons, woarn as ornaments in their hair, a spear or two
of a foot in length and some iron and brass arrow points which they
informed me they obtained in exchange for horses from the Crow or Rocky
Mountain Indians on the yellowstone River. the bridlebits and stirrips
they obtained from the Spaniards, tho these were but few. many of them
made use of flint for knives, and with this instrument, skined the
animals they killed, dressed their fish and made their arrows; in short
they used it for every purpose to which the knife is applyed. this
flint is of no regular form, and if they can only obtain a part of it,
an inch or two in length that will cut they are satisfyed, they renew
the edge by fleaking off the flint by means of the point of an Elk's or
deer's horn. with the point of a deer or Elk's horn they also form
their arrow points of the flint, with a quickness and neatness that is
really astonishing. we found no axes nor hatchets among them; what wood
they cut was done either with stone or Elk's horn. the latter they use
always to rive or split their wood. their culinary eutensils exclusive
of the brass kettle before mentioned consist of pots in the form of
ajar made either of earth, or of a white soft stone which becomes black
and very hard by birning, and is found in the hills near the three
forks of the Missouri betwen Madison's and Gallitin's rivers they have
also spoons made of the Buffaloe's horn and those of the Bighorn. Their
bows are made of ceader or pine and have nothing remarkable about them.
the back of the bow is covered with sinues and glue and is about 21/2
feet long. much the shape of those used by the Siouxs Mandans
Minnetares &c. their arrows are more slender generally than those used
by the nations just mentioned but much the same in construction. Their
Sheild is formed of buffaloe hide, perfectly arrow proof, and is a
circle of 2 feet 4 I. or 2 F. 6 I. in diameter. this is frequently
painted with varios figures and ornamented around the edges with
feather and a fringe of dressed leather. they sometimes make bows of
the Elk's horn and those also of the bighorn. those of the Elk's horn
are made of a single peice and covered on the back with glue and sinues
like those made of wood, and are frequently ornamented with a stran
wrought porcupine quills and sinues raped around them for some distance
at both extremities. the bows of the bighorn are formed of small peices
laid flat and cemented with gleue, and rolled with sinews, after which,
they are also covered on the back with sinews and glew, and highly
ornamented as they are much prized. forming the sheild is a cerimony of
great importance among them, this implement would in their minds be
devested of much of its protecting power were it not inspired with
those virtues by their old men and jugglers. their method of preparing
it is thus, an entire skin of a bull buffaloe two years old is first
provided; a feast is next prepared and all the warriors old men and
jugglers invited to partake. a hole is sunk in the ground about the
same in diameter with the intended sheild and about 18 inches deep. a
parcel of stones are now made red hot and thrown into the hole water is
next thrown in and the hot stones cause it to emit a very strong hot
steem, over this they spread the green skin which must not have been
suffered to dry after taken off the beast. the flesh side is laid next
to the groround and as many of the workmen as can reach it take hold on
it's edges and extend it in every direction. as the skin becomes
heated, the hair seperates and is taken of with the fingers, and the
skin continues to contract untill the whoe is drawn within the compas
designed for the shield, it is then taken off and laid on a parchment
hide where they pound it with their heels when barefoot. this operation
of pounding continues for several days or as long as the feast lasts
when it is delivered to the propryeter and declared by the jugglers and
old men to be a sufficient defence against the arrows of their enimies
or even bullets if feast has been a satisfactory one. many of them
beleive implisitly that a ball cannot penitrate their sheilds, in
consequence of certain supernaural powers with which they have been
inspired by their jugglers.--The Poggamoggon is an instrument with a
handle of wood covered with dressed leather about the size of a whip
handle and 22 inches long; a round stone of 2 pounds weight is also
covered with leather and strongly united to the leather of the handle
by a throng of 2 inches long; a loop of leather united to the handle
passes arond the wrist. a very heavy blow may be given with this
instrument. They have also a kind of armor which they form with many
foalds of dressed Atelope's skin, unite with glue and sand. with this
they cover their own bodies and those of their horses. these are
sufficient against the effects of the arrow.--the quiver which contains
their arrows and implements for making fire is formed of various skins.
that of the Otter seems to be prefered. they are but narrow, of a
length sufficent to protect the arrow from the weather, and are woarn
on the back by means of a strap which passes over the left sholder and
under the wright arm.their impliments for making fire is nothing more
than a blunt arrow and a peice of well seasoned soft spongey wood such
as the willow or cottonwood. the point of this arrow they apply to this
dry stick so near one edge of it that the particles of wood which are
seperated from it by the friction of the arrow falls down by it's side
in a little pile. the arrow is held between the palms of the hand with
the fingers extended, and being pressed as much as possible against the
peice is briskly rolled between the palms of the hands backwards and
forwards by pressing the arrow downwards the hands of course in rolling
arrow also decend; they bring them back with a quick motion and repeat
the operation till the dust by the friction takes fire; the peice and
arrow are then removed and some dry grass or Boated wood is added. it
astonished me to see in what little time these people would kindle fire
in this way. in less than a minute they will produce fire.
Capt. Clark set out this morning very early and poroceeded but slowly
in consequence of the difficulty of his road which lay along the steep
side of a mountain over large irregular and broken masses of rocks
which had tumbled from the upper part of the mountain. it was with much
wrisk and pain that the horses could get on. at the distance of four
miles he arrived at the river and the rocks were here so steep and
juted into the river such manner that there was no other alternative
but passing through the river, this he attempted with success tho water
was so deep for a short distance as to swim the horses and was very
rapid; he continued his rout one mile along the edge of the river under
this steep Clift to a little bottom, below which the whole current of
the river beat against the Stard. shore on which he was, and which was
formed of a solid rock perfectly inaccessible to horses. here also the
little track which he had been pursuing, terminated. he therefore
determined to leave the horses and the majority of the party here and
with his guide and three men to continue his rout down the river still
further, in order more fully to satisfy himself as to it's
practicability. accordingly he directed the men to hunt and fish at
this place untill his return. they had not killed anything today but
one goose, and the ballance of the little provision they had brought
with them, as well as the five salmon they had procured yesterday were
consumed last evening; there was of tours no inducement for his halting
any time, at this place; after a few minutes he continued his rout
clambering over immence rocks and along the sides of lofty precepices
on the border of the river to the distance of 12 miles, at which place
a large creek discharged itself on the Norh side 12 yds. wide and deep.
a short distance above the entrance of this creek there is a narrow
bottom which is the first that he had found on the river from that in
which he left the horses and party. a plain indian road led up this
creek which the guide informed him led to a large river that ran to the
North, and was frequented by another nation who occasionally visited
this river for the purpose of taking fish. at this place he saw some
late appearance of Indians having been encamped and the tracks of a
number of horses. Capt. C. halted here about 2 hours, caught some small
fish, on which, with the addition of some berries, they dined. the
river from the place at which he left the party to his present station
was one continued rapid, in which there were five shoals neither of
which could be passed with loaded canoes nor even run with empty ones.
at those several places therefore it would be necessary to unload and
transport the baggage for a considerable distance over steep and almost
inacassable rocks where there was no possibility of employing horses
for the releif of the men; the canoes would next have to be let down by
cords and even with this precaution Capt. C. conceived there would be
much wriske of both canoes and men. at one of those shoals the lofty
perpendicular rocks which from the bases of the mountains approach the
river so nearly on each side, as to prevent the possibility of a
portage, or passage for the canoes without expending much labour in
removing rocks and cuting away the earth in some places. to surmount
These difficulties, precautions must be observed which in their
execution must necessarily consume much time and provision, neither of
which we can command. the season is now far advanced to remain in these
mountains as the Indians inform us we shall shortly have snow; the
salmon have so far declined that they are themselves haistening from
the country and not an animal of any discription is to be seen in this
difficult part of the river larger than a pheasant or a squirrel and
they not abundant; add to this that our stock of provision is now so
low that it would not support us more than ten days. the bends of the
river are short and the currant beats from side to side against the
rocks with great violence. the river is about 100 yds. wide and so deep
that it cannot be foarded but in a few places, and the rocks approach
the river so near in most places that there is no possibility of
passing between them and the water; a passage therefore with horses
along the river is also impracticable. The sides of these mountains
present generally one barren surface of confused and broken masses of
stone. above these are white or brown and towards the base of a grey
colour and so hard that when struck with a steel, yeald fire like
flint. those he had just past were scarcely releived by the appearance
of a tree; but those below the entrance of the creek were better
covered with timber, and there were also some tall pine near the river.
The sides of the mountains are very steep, and the torrents of water
which roll down their sides at certain seasons appear to carry with
them vast quantities of the loose stone into the river. after dinner
Capt. C. continued his rout down the river and at 1/2 a mile pased
another creek not so large as that just mentioned, or about 5 yards
wide. here his guide informed him that by ascending this creek some
distance they would have a better road and would cut off a considerable
bend which the river made to the south; accordingly he pursued a well
beaten Indian track which led up this creek about six miles, then
leaving the creek on the wright he passed over a ridge, and at the
distance of a mile arrived at the river where it passes through a well
timbered bottom of about eighty acres of land; they passed this bottom
and asscended a steep and elivated point of a mountain, from whence the
guide shewed him the brake of the river through the mountains for about
20 miles further. this view was terminated by one of the most lofty
mountains, Capt. C. informed me, he had ever seen which was perfectly
covered with snow. the river directed it's course immediately to this
stupendous mountain at the bace of which the gude informe him those
difficulties of which himself and nation had spoken, commenced. that
after the river reached this mountain it continued it's rout to the
North for many miles between high and perpendicular rocks, roling
foaming and beating against innumerable rocks which crouded it's
channel; that then it penetrated the mountain through a narrow gap
leaving a perpendicular rock on either side as high as the top of the
mountain which he beheld. that the river here making a bend they could
not see through the mountain, and as it was impossible to decend the
river or clamber over that vast mountain covered with eternal snow,
neither himself nor any of his nation had ever been lower in this
direction, than in view of the place at which the river entered this
mountain; that if Capt. C. wished him to do so, he would conduct him to
that place, where he thought they could probably arrive by the next
evening. Capt. C. being now perfictly satisfyed as to the
impractability of this rout either by land or water, informed the old
man, that he was convinced of the varacity of his assertions and would
now return to the village from whence they had set out where he
expected to meet myself and party. they now returned to the upper part
of the last creek he had passed, and encamped. it was an hour after
dark before he reached this place. a small river falls into this fork
of the Columbia just above the high mountain through which it passes on
the south side.
[Clark, August 23, 1805]
August 23rd Friday 1805
We Set out early proceed on with great dificuelty as the rocks were So
Sharp large and unsettled and the hill sides Steep that the horses
could with the greatest risque and dificulty get on, no provisions as
the 5 Sammons given us yesterday by the Indians were eaten last night,
one goose killed this morning; at 4 miles we came to a place the horses
Could not pass without going into the river, we passed one mile to a
verry bad riffle the water Confined in a narrow Channel & beeting
against the left Shore, as we have no parth further and the Mounts. jut
So close as to prevent the possibiley of horses proceeding down, I
deturmined to delay the party here and with my guide and three men
proceed on down to examine if the river continued bad or was
practiable. I Set out with three men directing those left to hunt and
fish until my return. I proceeded on Somtims in a Small wolf parth & at
other times Climeing over the rocks for 12 miles to a large Creek on
the right Side above the mouth of this Creek for a Short distance is a
narrow bottom & the first, below the place I left my partey, a road
passes down this Creek which I understoode passed to the water of a
River which run to Th North & was the ground of another nation, Some
fresh Sign about this Creek of horse and Camps. I delayd 2 hours to
fish, Cought Some Small fish on which we dined.
The River from the place I left my party to this Creek is almost one
continued rapid, five verry Considerable rapids the passage of either
with Canoes is entirely impossable, as the water is Confined betwen
hugh Rocks & the Current beeting from one against another for Some
distance below &c. &c. at one of those rapids the mountains Close So
Clost as to prevent a possibility of a portage with great labour in
Cutting down the Side of the hill removeing large rocks &c. &c. all the
others may be passed by takeing every thing over Slipery rocks, and the
Smaller ones Passed by letting down the Canoes empty with Cords, as
running them would certainly be productive of the loss of Some Canoes,
those dificuelties and necessary precautions would delay us an emince
time in which provisions would be necessary. (we have but little and
nothing to be precured in this quarter except Choke Cheres & red haws
not an animal of any kind to be seen and only the track of a Bear)
below this Creek the lofty Pine is thick in the bottom hill Sides on
the mountains & up the runs. The river has much the resemblance of that
above bends Shorter and no passing, after a few miles between the river
& the mountains & the Current So Strong that is dangerous crossing the
river, and to proceed down it would rendr it necessarey to Cross almost
at every bend This river is about 100 yards wide and can be forded but
in a few places. below my guide and maney other Indians tell me that
the Mountains Close and is a perpendicular Clift on each Side, and
Continues for a great distance and that the water runs with great
violence from one rock to the other on each Side foaming & roreing thro
rocks in every direction, So as to render the passage of any thing
impossible. those rapids which I had Seen he said was Small & trifleing
in comparrison to the rocks & rapids below, at no great distance & The
Hills or mountains were not like those I had Seen but like the Side of
a tree Streight up--Those Mountains which I had passed were Steep
Contain a white, a brown, & low down a Grey hard stone which would make
fire, those Stone were of different Sises all Sharp and are continuly
Slipping down, and in maney places one bed of those Stones inclined
from the river bottom to the top of the mountains, The Torrents of
water which come down aftr a rain carries with it emence numbers of
those Stone into the river about 1/2 a mile below the last mentioned
Creek another Creek falls in, my guide informed me that our rout was up
this Creek by which rout we would Save a considerable bend of the river
to the South. we proceeded on a well beeten Indian parth up this Creak
about 6 miles and passed over a ridge 1 mile to the river in a Small
vally through which we passed and assended a Spur of the Mountain from
which place my guide Shew me the river for about 20 miles lower &
pointed out the dificulty we returned to the last Creek & camped about
one hour after dark.
There my guide Shewed me a road from the N Which Came into the one I
was in which he Said went to a large river which run to the north on
which was a Nation he called Tushapass, he made a map of it
[Lewis, August 24, 1805]
Saturday August 24th 1805.
As the Indians who were on their way down the Missouri had a number of
spare hoses with them I thought it probable that I could obtain some of
them and therefore desired the Cheif to speak to them and inform me
whether they would trade. they gave no positive answer but requested to
see the goods which I was willing to give in exchange. I now produced
some battle axes which I had made at Fort Mandan with which they were
much pleased. knives also seemed in great demand among them. I soon
purchased three horses and a mule. for each horse I gave an ax a knife
handkercheif and a little paint; & for the mule the addition of a knife
a shirt handkercheif and a pair of legings; at this price which was
quite double that given for the horses, the fellow who sold him made a
merit of having bestoed me one of his mules. I consider this mule a
great acquisition. These Indians soon told me that they had no more
horses for sale and I directed the party to prepare to set out. I had
now nine horses and a mule, and two which I had hired made twelve these
I had loaded and the Indian women took the ballance of the baggage. I
had given the Interpreter some articles with which to purchase a horse
for the woman which he had obtained. at twelve Oclock we set out and
passed the river below the forks, directing our rout towards the cove
along the track formerly mentioned. most of the horses were heavily
laden, and it appears to me that it will require at least 25 horses to
convey our baggage along such roads as I expect we shall be obliged to
pass in the mountains. I had now the inexpressible satisfaction to find
myself once more under way with all my baggage and party. an Indian had
the politeness to offer me one of his horses to ride which I accepted
with cheerfullness as it enabled me to attend better to the march of
the party. I had reached the lower part of the cove when an Indian rode
up and informed me that one of my men was very sick and unable to come
on. I directed the party to halt at a small run which falls into the
creek on Lard. at the lower part of the Cove and rode back about 2
Miles where I found Wiser very ill with a fit of the cholic. I sent
Sergt. Ordway who had remained with him for some water and gave him a
doze of the essence of Peppermint and laudinum which in the course of
half an hour so far recovered him that he was enabled to ride my horse
and I proceeded on foot and rejoined the party. the sun was yet an hour
high but the Indians who had for some time impatiently waited my return
at length unloaded and turned out their horses and my party had
followed there ex-ample. as it was so late and the Indians had prepared
their camp for the night I thought it best to acquiess and determined
also to remain. we had traveled only about six miles. after we encamped
we had a slight shower of rain. Goodrich who is our principal fisherman
caught several fine trout. Drewyer came to us late in the evening and
had not killed anything. I gave the Indians who were absolutely engaged
in transporting the baggage, a little corn as they had nothing to eat.
I told Cameahwait that my stock of provision was too small to indulge
all his people with provision and recommended it to him to advise such
as were not assisting us with our baggage to go on to their camp to
morrow and wait our arrival; which he did accordingly. Cameahwait
literally translated is one who never walks. he told me that his nation
had also given him another name by which he was signalized as a warrior
which was Too-et'-te-con'-e or black gun. these people have many names
in the course of their lives, particularly if they become distinguished
characters. for it seems that every important event by which they
happen to distinguish themselves intitles them to claim another name
which is generally scelected by themselves and confirmed by the nation.
those distinguishing acts are the killing and scalping an enemy, the
killing a white bear, leading a party to war who happen to be
successfull either in destroying their enemies or robing them of their
horses, or individually stealing the horses of an enemy. these are
considered acts of equal heroism among them, and that of killing an
enemy without scalping him is considered of no importance; in fact the
whole honour seems to be founded in the act of scalping, for if a man
happens to slay a dozen of his enemies in action and others get the
scalps or first lay their hand on the dead person the honor is lost to
him who killed them and devolves on those who scalp or first touch
them. Among the Shoshones, as well as all the Indians of America,
bravery is esteemed the primary virtue; nor can any one become eminent
among them who has not at some period of his life given proofs of his
possessing this virtue. with them there can be no preferment without
some warelike achievement, and so completely interwoven is this
principle with the earliest Elements of thought that it will in my
opinion prove a serious obstruction to the restoration of a general
peace among the nations of the Missouri. while at Fort Mandan I was one
day addressing some cheifs of the Minetares wo visited us and pointing
out to them the advantages of a state of peace with their neighbours
over that of war in which they were engaged. the Chiefs who had already
geathered their havest of larals, and having forceably felt in many
instances some of those inconveniences attending a state of war which I
pointed out, readily agreed with me in opinon. a young fellow under the
full impression of the Idea I have just suggested asked me if they were
in a state of peace with all their neighhours what the nation would do
for Cheifs?, and added that the cheifs were now oald and must shortly
die and that the nation could not exist without cheifs. taking as
granted that there could be no other mode devised for making Cheifs but
that which custom had established through the medium of warlike
acievements.
The few guns which the Shoshones have are reserved for war almost
exclusively and the bow and arrows are used in hunting. I have seen a
few skins among these people which have almost every appearance of the
common sheep. they inform me that they finde this animals on the high
mountains to the West and S. W. of them. it is about the size of the
common sheep, the wool is reather shorter and more intermixed with long
hairs particularly on the upper part of the neck. these skins have been
so much woarn that I could not form a just Idea of the animal or it's
colour. the Indians however inform me that it is white and that it's
horns are lunated comprest twisted and bent backward as those of the
common sheep. the texture of the skin appears to be that of the sheep.
I am now perfectly convinced that the sheep as well as the Bighorn
exist in these mountains.
The usual caparison of the Shoshone horse is a halter and saddle. the
1st consists either of a round plated or twisted cord of six or seven
strands of buffaloe's hair, or a throng of raw hide made pliant by
pounding and rubing. these cords of bufaloe's hair are about the size
of a man's finger and remarkably strong. this is the kind of halter
which is prefered by them. the halter of whatever it may be composed is
always of great length and is never taken from the neck of the horse
which they commonly use at any time. it is first attatched at one end
about the neck of the horse with a knot that will not slip, it is then
brought down to his under jaw and being passed through the mouth
imbaces the under jaw and tonge in a simple noose formed by crossing
the rope inderneath the jaw of the horse. this when mounted he draws up
on the near side of the horse's neck and holds in the left hand,
suffering it to trail at a great distance behind him sometimes the
halter is attatched so far from the end that while the shorter end
serves him to govern his horse, the other trails on the grond as before
mentioned. they put their horses to their full speed with those cords
trailing on the ground. when they turn out the horse to graze the noose
is mearly loosed from his mouth. the saddle is made of wood and covered
with raw hide which holds the parts very firmly together. it is made
like the pack saddles in uce among the French and Spaniards. it
consists of two flat thin boards which fit the sides of the horses
back, and are held frirm by two peices which are united to them behind
and before on the outer side and which rise to a considerable hight
terminating sometimes in flat horizontal points extending outwards, and
alwas in an accute angle or short bend underneath the upper part of
these peices. a peice of buffaloe's skin with the hair on, is usually
put underneath the saddle; and very seldom any covering on the saddle.
stirrups when used are made of wood and covered with leather. these are
generally used by the elderly men and women; the young men scarcely
ever use anything more than a small pad of dressed leather stuffed with
hair, which is confined with a leather thong passing arond the body of
the horse in the manner of a girth. they frequently paint their
favorite horses, and cut their ears in various shapes. they also
decorate their mains and tails, which they never draw or trim, with the
feathers of birds, and sometimes suspend at the breast of the horse the
finest ornaments they possess. the Spanish bridle is prefered by them
when they can obtain them, but they never dispence with the cord about
the neck of the horse, which serves them to take him with more ease
when he is runing at large. They are excellent horsemen and extreemly
expert in casting the cord about the neck of a horse. the horses that
have been habituated to be taken with the cord in this way, however
wild they may appear at first, surrender the moment they feel the cord
about their necks.--There are no horses in this quarter which can with
propriety be termed wild. there are some few which have been left by
the indians at large for so great a length of time that they have
become shye, but they all shew marks of having been in possession of
man. such is that one which Capt. Clark saw just below the three forks
of the Missouri, and one other which I saw on the Missouri below the
entrance of the Mussle shell river.--Capt. Clark set out very early
this morning on his return, he traveled down the creek to it's entrance
by the same Indian track he had ascended it; at the river he marked his
name on a pine tree, then ascended to the bottom above the second
creek, and brekfasted on burries, which occupyed them about one hour.
he now retraced his former track and joined the party where he had left
them at 4 P.M. on his way Capt. C. fell from a rock and injured one of
his legs very much. the party during his absence had killed a few
pheasants and caught a few small fish on which together with haws and
Serviceburies they had subsisted. they had also killed one cock of the
Mountains Capt. Clark now wrote me a discription of the river and
country, and stated our prospects by this rout as they have been
heretofore mentioned and dispatched Colter on horseback with orders to
loose no time reaching me. he set out late with the party continued his
rout about two miles and encamped. Capt Clark had seen some trees which
would make small canoes but all of them some distance below the Indian
Caps which he passed at the entrance of fish Creek.
[Clark, August 24, 1805]
August 24th Satturday 1805
Set out verry early this morning on my return passed down the Creek at
the mouth marked my name on a pine Tree, proceed on to the bottom above
the Creek & Brackfast on buries & delayed 1 hour, then proceed on up
the river by the Same rout we decended to the place I left my party
where we arrived at 4 oClock, (I Sliped & bruised my leg verry much on
a rock) the party had killed Several phesents and Cought a fiew Small
fish on which they had Subsisted in my absence. also a heath hen, near
the Size of a Small turkey.
I wrote a letter to Capt Lewis informing him of the prospects before us
and information recved of my guide which I thought favourable &c. &
Stating two plans one of which for us to pursue &c. and despatched one
man & horse and directed the party to get ready to march back, every
man appeared disheartened from the prospects of the river, and nothing
to eate, I Set out late and Camped 2 miles above, nothing to eate but
Choke Cherries & red haws which act in different ways So as to make us
Sick, dew verry heavy, my beding wet in passing around a rock the
horses were obliged to go deep into the water.
The plan I stated to Capt Lewis if he agrees with me we shall adopt is
to procure as many horses (one for each man) if possible and to hire my
present guide who I sent on to him to interegate thro the Intprtr. and
proceed on by land to Some navagable part of the Columbia River, or to
the Ocean, depending on what provisions we can procure by the gun aded
to the Small Stock we have on hand depending on our horses as the last
resort.
a second plan to divide the party one part to attempt this deficuet
river with what provisions we had, and the remaindr to pass by Land on
hose back Depending on our gun &c for Provisions &c. and come together
occasionally on the river.
the 1s of which I would be most pleased with &c.
I saw Several trees which would make Small Canoes and by putting 2
together would make a Siseable one, all below the last Indian Camp
Several miles
[Lewis, August 25, 1805]
Sunday August 25th 1805.
This morning loaded our horses and set out a little after sunrise; a
few only of the Indians unengaged in assisting us went on as I had
yesterday proposed to the Cheif. the others flanked us on each side and
started some Antelope which they pursued for several hours but killed
none of them. we proceeded within 2 Ms. of the narrow pass or seven
miles from our camp of last evening and halted for dinner. Our hunters
joined us at noon with three deer the greater part of which I gave the
indians. sometime after we had halted, Charbono mentioned to me with
apparent unconcern that he expected to meet all the Indians from the
camp on the Columbia tomorrow on their way to the Missouri. allarmed at
this information I asked why he expected to meet them. he then informed
me that the 1st Cheif had dispatched some of his young men this morning
to this camp requesting the Indians to meet them tomorrow and that
himself and those with him would go on with them down the Missouri, and
consequently leave me and my baggage on the mountain or thereabouts. I
was out of patience with the folly of Charbono who had not sufficient
sagacity to see the consequencies which would inevitably flow from such
a movement of the indians, and altho he had been in possession of this
information since early in the morning when it had been communicated to
him by his Indian woman yet he never mentioned it untill the after
noon. I could not forbear speaking to him with some degree of asperity
on this occasion. I saw that there was no time to be lost in having
those orders countermanded, or that we should not in all probability
obtain any more horses or even get my baggage to the waters of the
Columbia. I therefore Called the three Cheifs together and having
smoked a pipe with them, I asked them if they were men of their words,
and whether I could depent on the promises they had made me; they
readily answered in the affermative; I then asked them if they had not
promised to assist me with my baggage to their camp on the other side
of the mountains, or to the place at which Capt. Clark might build the
canoes, should I wish it. they acknowledged that they had. I then asked
them why they had requested their people on the other side of the
mountain to meet them tomorrow on the mountain where there would be no
possibility of our remaining together for the purpose of trading for
their horses as they had also promised. that if they had not promised
to have given me their assistance in transporting my baggage to the
waters on the other side of the mountain that I should not have
attempted to pass the mountains but would have returned down the river
and that in that case they would never have seen anymore white men in
their country. that if they wished the white men to be their friends
and to assist them against their enemies by furnishing them with arms
and keeping their enemies from attacking them that they must never
promis us anything which they did not mean to perform. that when I had
first seen them they had doubted what I told them about the arrival of
the party of whitemen in canoes, that they had been convinced that what
I told them on that occasion was true, why then would they doubt what I
said on any other point. I told them that they had witnessed my
liberality in dividing the meat which my hunters killed with them; and
that I should continue to give such of them as assisted me a part of
whatever we had ourselves to eat. and finally concluded by telling them
if they intended to keep the promisses they had made me to dispatch one
of their young men immediately with orders to their people to remain
where they were untill our arrival. the two inferior cheifs said that
they wished to assist me and be as good as their word, and that they
had not sent for their people, that it was the first Chief who had done
so, and they did not approve of the measure. Cameahwait remained silent
for some time, at length he told me that he knew he had done wrong but
that he had been induced to that measure from seeing all his people
hungary, but as he had promised to give me his assistance he would not
in future be worse than his word. I then desired him to send
immediately and countermand his orders; acordingly a young man was sent
for this purpose and I gave him a handkerchief to engage him in my
interest. this matter being arranged to my satisfaction I called all
the women and men together who had been assisting me in the
transportation of the baggage and gave them a billet for each horse
which they had imployed in that service and informed them when we
arrived at the plaice where we should finally halt on the river I would
take the billet back and give them merchandize for it. every one
appeared now satisfyed and when I ordered the horses loaded for our
departure the Indians were more than usually allert. we continued our
march untill late in the evening and encamped at the upper part of the
cove where the creek enters the mountains; here our hunters joined us
with another deer which they had killed, this I gave to the women and
Children, and for my own part remained supperless. I observed
considerable quantities of wild onions in the bottom lands of this
cove. I also saw several large hares and many of the cock of the plains.
Capt. Clark set out early this morning and continued his rout to the
indian camp at the entrance of fish Creek; here he halted about an
hour; the indians gave himself and party some boiled salmon and
hurries. these people appeared extreemly hospitable tho poor and dirty
in the extreem. he still pursued the track up the river by which he had
decended and in the evening arrived at the bluff on the river where he
had encamped on the 21st Inst. it was late in the evening before he
reached this place. they formed their camp, and Capt. C. sent them in
different directions to hunt and fish. some little time after they
halted a party of Indians passed by on their way down the river,
consisting of a man a woman and several boys; from these people the
guide obtained 2 salmon which together with some small fish they caught
and a beaver which Shannon killed furnished them with a plentifull
supper. the pine grows pretty abundantly high up on the sides of the
mountains on the opposite side of the river. one of the hunters saw a
large herd of Elk on the opposite side of the river in the edge of the
timbered land.--Winsor was taken very sick today and detained Capt C.
very much on his march. three hunters whom he had sent on before him
this morning joined him in the evening having killed nothing; they saw
only one deer.
The course and the distances, of Capt. Clark's rout down this branch of
the Columbia below this bluff, commencing opposite to an Island, are as
follow.
This morning while passing through the Shoshone cove Frazier fired his
musquet at some ducks in a little pond at the distance of about 60
yards from me; the ball rebounded from the water and pased within a
very few feet of me. near the upper part of this cove the Shoshonees
suffered a very severe defeat by the Minnetares about six years since.
this part of the cove on the N. E. side of the Creek has lately been
birned by the Indians as a signal on some occasion.
[Clark, August 25, 1805]
August 25th Sunday 1805
Set out verry early and halted one hour at the Indian Camp, they were
kind gave us all a little boiled Sarnmon & dried buries to eate, abt.
half as much as I could eate, those people are kind with what they have
but excessive pore & Durtey.--we proceeded on over the mountains we had
before passed to the Bluff we Encamped at on the 21s instant where we
arrived late and turned out to hunt & fish, Cought Several Small fish,
a party of Squars & one man with Several boys going down to guathe
berries below, my guide got two Sammon from this party (which made
about half a Supper for the party), after Dark Shannon came in with a
beaver which the Party suped on Sumptiously--one man verry Sick to day
which detained us verry much I had three hunters out all day, they saw
one Deer, killed nothing. one of the Party Saw 9 Elk on a Mountain to
our right assending, amongst the Pine timber which is thick on that side
[Lewis, August 26, 1805]
Monday August 26th 1805.
This morning was excessively cold; there was ice on the vessels of
water which stood exposed to the air nearly a quarter of an inch thick.
we collected our horses and set out at sunrise. we soon arrived at the
extreem source of the Missouri; here I halted a few minutes, the men
drank of the water and consoled themselves with the idea of having at
length arrived at this long wished for point. from hence we proceeded
to a fine spring on the side of the mountain where I had lain the
evening before I first arrived at the Shoshone Camp. here I halted to
dine and graize our horses, there being fine green grass on that part
of the hillside which was moistened by the water of the spring while
the grass on the other parts was perfectly dry and parched with the
sun. I directed a pint of corn to be given each Indian who was engaged
in transporting our baggage and about the same quantity to each of the
men which they parched pounded and made into supe. one of the women who
had been assisting in the transportation of the baggage halted at a
little run about a mile behind us, and sent on the two pack horses
which she had been conducting by one of her female friends. I enquired
of Cameahwait the cause of her detention, and was informed by him in an
unconcerned manner that she had halted to bring fourth a child and
would soon overtake us; in about an hour the woman arrived with her
newborn babe and passed us on her way to the camp apparently as well as
she ever was. It appears to me that the facility and ease with which
the women of the aborigines of North America bring fourth their
children is reather a gift of nature than depending as some have
supposed on the habitude of carrying heavy burthens on their backs
while in a state of pregnancy. if a pure and dry air, an elivated and
cold country is unfavourable to childbirth, we might expect every
difficult incident to that operation of nature in this part of the
continent; again as the snake Indians possess an abundance of horses,
their women are seldom compelled like those in other parts of the
continent to carry burthens on their backs, yet they have their
children with equal convenience, and it is a rare occurrence for any of
them to experience difficulty in childbirth. I have been several times
informed by those who were conversent with the fact, that the indian
women who are pregnant by whitemen experience more difficulty in
childbirth than when pregnant by an Indian. if this be true it would go
far in suport of the opinion I have advanced.
the tops of the high and irregular mountains which present themselves
to our view on the opposite side of this branch of the Columbia are yet
perfectly covered with snow; the air which proceeds from those
mountains has an agreeable coolness and renders these parched and South
hillsides much more supportable at this time of the day it being now
about noon. I observe the indian women collecting the root of a speceis
of fennel which grows in the moist grounds and feeding their poor
starved children; it is really distressing to witness the situation of
those poor wretches. the radix of this plant is of the knob kind, of a
long ovate form terminating in a single radicle, the whole bing about 3
or four inches in length and the thickest part about the size of a
man's little finger. it is white firm and crisp in it's present state,
when dryed and pounded it makes a fine white meal; the flavor of this
root is not unlike that of annisseed but not so pungent; the stem rises
to the hight of 3 or four feet is jointed smooth and cilindric; from r
to 4 of those knobed roots are attatched to the base of this stem. the
leaf is sheathing sessile, & pultipartite, the divisions long and
narrow; the whole is of a deep green. it is now in blame; the flowers
are numerous, small, petals white, and are of the umbellaferous kind.
several small peduncles put forth from the main stock one at each joint
above the sheathing leaf. it has no root leaves. the root of the
present year declines when the seeds have been matured and the
succeeding spring other roots of a similar kind put fourth from the
little knot which unites the roots and stem and grow and decline with
the stem as before mentioned. The sunflower is very abundant near the
watercourses the seeds of this plant are now rip and the natives
collect them in considerable quantities and reduce them to meal by
pounding and rubing them between smooth stones. this meal is a favorite
food their manner of using it has been beforementiond. after dinner we
continued our rout towards the village. on our near approach we were
met by a number of young men on horseback. Cameahwait requested that we
would discharge our guns when we arrived in sight of the Village,
accordingly when I arrived on an eminence above the village in the
plain I drew up the party at open order in a single rank and gave them
a runing fire discharging two rounds. they appeared much gratifyed with
this exhibition. we then proceeded to the village or encampment of
brush lodges 32 in number. we were conducted to a large lodge which had
been prepared for me in the center of their encampmerit which was
situated in a beautifull level smooth and extensive bottom near the
river about 3 miles above the place I had first found them encamped.
here we arrived at 6 in the evening arranged our baggage near my tent
and placed those of the men on either side of the baggage facing
outwards. I found Colter here who had just arrived with a letter from
Capt. Clark in which Capt. C. had given me an account of his
peregrination and the description of the river and country as before
detailed from this view of the subject I found it a folly to think of
attemping to decend this river in canoes and therefore to commence the
purchase of horses in the morning from the indians in order to carry
into execution the design we had formed of passing the rocky Mountains.
I now informed Cameahwait of my intended expedition overland to the
great river which lay in the plains beyond the mountains and told him
that I wished to purchase 20 horses of himself and his people to convey
our baggage. he observed that the Minnetares had stolen a great number
of their horses this spring but hoped his people would spear me the
number I wished. I also asked a guide, he observed that he had no doubt
but the old man who was with Capt. C. would accompany us if we wished
him and that he was better informed of the country than any of them.
matters being thus far arranged I directed the fiddle to be played and
the party danced very merily much to the amusement and gratification of
the natives, though I must confess that the state of my own mind at
this moment did not well accord with the prevailing mirth as I somewhat
feared that the caprice of the indians might suddenly induce them to
withhold their horses from us without which my hopes of prosicuting my
voyage to advantage was lost; however I determined to keep the indians
in a good humour if possible, and to loose no time in obtaining the
necessary number of horses. I directed the hunters to turn out early in
the morning and indeavor to obtain some meat. I had nothing but a
little parched corn to eat this evening.