[Clark, July 26, 1805]

July 26th Friday 1805

I deturmined to leave Shabono & one man who had Sore feet to rest &

proceed on with the other two to the top of a mountain 12 miles distant

west and from thence view the river & vallies a head, we with great

dificuelty & much fatigue reached the top at 11 oClock from the top of

this mountain I could see the Course of the North fork about 10 miles

meandering through a Vallie but Could discover no Indians or Sign which

was fresh. I could also See Some distance up the Small River below, and

also the middle fork after Satisfying my Self returned to the two men

by an old Indian parth, on this parth & in the Mountain we Came to a

Spring of excessive Cold water, which we drank reather freely of as we

were almost famished; not with Standing the precautions of wetting my

face, hands, & feet, I Soon felt the effects of the water. We Contind.

thro a Deep Vallie without a Tree to Shade us Scorching with heat to

the men who had killed a pore Deer, I was fatigued my feet with Several

blisters & Stuck with prickley pears. I eate but verry little

deturmined to Cross to the middle fork and examine that. we Crossed the

Missouri which was divided by a verry large Island, the first Part was

knee deep, the other waste deep & verry rapid--I felt my Self verry

unwell & took up Camp on the little river 3 miles above its mouth &

near the place it falls into the bottom a fiew Drops of rain this

evening

we killed 2 bear which was imediately in our way. both pore emence

number of Beaver and orter in this little river which forks in the

bottom

[Lewis, July 27, 1805]

Saturday July 27th 1805.

We set out at an early hour and proceeded on but slowly the current

still so rapid that the men are in a continual state of their utmost

exertion to get on, and they begin to weaken fast from this continual

state of violent exertion. at the distance of 13/4 miles the river was

again closely hemned in by high Clifts of a solid limestone rock which

appear to have tumbled or sunk in the same manner of those discribed

yesterday. the limestone appears to be of an excellent quality of deep

blue colour when fractured and of a light led colour where exposed to

the weather. it appears to be of a very fine grain the fracture like

that of marble. we saw a great number of the bighorn on those Clifts.

at the distance of 33/4 ms. further we arrived at 9 A.M. at the

junction of the S. E. fork of the Missouri and the country opens

suddonly to extensive and beatifull plains and meadows which appear to

be surrounded in every direction with distant and lofty mountains;

supposing this to be the three forks of the Missouri I halted the party

on the Lard. shore for breakfast and walked up the S. E. fork about 1/2

a mile and ascended the point of a high limestone clift from whence I

commanded a most perfect view of the neighbouring country. From this

point I could see the S. E. fork about 7 miles. it is rapid and about

70 yards wide. throughout the distance I saw it, it passes through a

smoth extensive green meadow of fine grass in it's course meandering in

several streams the largest of which passes near the Lard. hills, of

which, the one I stand on is the extremity in this direction. a high

wide and extensive plain succeeds the meadow and extends back several

miles from the river on the Stard. sade and with the range of mountains

up the Lard. side of the middle fork. a large spring arrises in this

meadow about 1/4 of a mile from the S. E. fork into which it discharges

itself on the Stard. side about 400 paces above me. from E to S.

between the S. E. and middle forks a distant range of lofty mountains

rose their snow-clad tops above the irregular and broken mountains

which lie adjacent to this beautifull spot. the extreme point to which

I could see the S. E. fork boar S. 65° E. distant 7 ms. as before

observed. between the middle and S. E. forks near their junctions with

the S. W. fork there is a handsom site for a fortification it consists

of a limestone rock of an oblong form; it's sides perpendicular and

about 25 ft high except at the extremity towards the middle fork where

it ascends gradually and like the top is covered with a fine terf of

greenswoard. the top is level and contains about 2 Acres. the rock

rises from the level plain as if it had been designed for some such

purpose. the extream point to which I can see the bottom and meandering

of the Middle fork bears S. 15 E distant about 14 miles. here it turns

to the right around a point of a high plain and disappears to my view.

it's bottoms are several miles in width and like that of the S. E. fork

form one smoth and beautifull green meadow. it is also divided into

several streams. betwen this and the S. W. fork there is an extensive

plain which appears to extend up both those rivers many miles and back

to the mountains. the extreme point to which I can see the S. W. fork

bears S. 30 W. distant about 12 miles. this stream passes through a

similar country with the other two and is more divided and serpentine

in it's course than either of the others; it also possesses abundanly

more timber in it's bottoms. the timber here consists of the

narrowleafed cottonwood almost entirely. but little box alder or sweet

willow the underbrush thick and as heretofore discribed in the quarter

of the missouri. a range of high mountains at a considerable distance

appear to reach from South to West and are partially covered with snow

the country to the right of the S. W. fork like that to the left of the

S. E. fork is high broken and mountainous as is that also down the

missouri behind us, through which, these three rivers after assembling

their united force at this point seem to have forced a passage these

bottom lands tho not more than 8 or 9 feet above the water seem never

to overflow. after making a draught of the connection and meanders of

these streams I decended the hill and returned to the party, took

breakfast and ascended the S. W. fork 13/4 miles and encamped at a

Lard. bend in a handsome level smooth plain just below a bayou, having

passed the entrance of the middle fork at 1/2 a mile. here I encamped

to wait the return of Capt. Clark and to give the men a little rest

which seemed absolutely necessary to them. at the junction of the S. W.

and Middle forks I found a note which had been left by Capt. Clark

informing me of his intended rout, and that he would rejoin me at this

place provided he did not fall in with any fresh sighn of Indians, in

which case he intended to pursue untill he over took them calculating

on my taking the S. W. fork, which I most certainly prefer as it's

direction is much more promising than any other. beleiving this to be

an essential point in the geography of this western part of the

Continent I determined to remain at all events untill I obtained the

necessary data for fixing it's latitude Longitude &c. after fixing my

camp I had the canoes all unloaded and the baggage stoed away and

securely covered on shore, and then permitted several men to hunt. I

walked down to the middle fork and examined and compared it with the S.

W. fork but could not satisfy myself which was the largest stream of

the two, in fact they appeared as if they had been cast in the same

mould there being no difference in character or size, therefore to call

either of these streams the Missouri would be giving it a preference

wich it's size dose not warrant as it is not larger then the other.

they are each 90 yds. wide. in these meadows I saw a number of the

duckanmallad with their young which are now nearly grown. Currants of

every species as well as goosberries are found here in great abundance

and perfection. a large black goosberry which grows to the hight of

five or six feet is also found here. this is the growth of the bottom

lands and is found also near the little rivulets which make down from

the hills and mountains it puts up many stems from the same root, some

of which are partialy branched and all reclining. the berry is

attatched seperately by a long peduncle to the stem from which they

hang pendant underneath. the berry is of an ovate form smooth as large

as the common garden goosberry when arrived at maturity and is as black

as jet, tho the pulp is of a cimson colour. this fruit is extreemly

asced. the leaf resembles the common goosberry in form but is reather

larger and somewhat proportioned to the superior size of it's stem when

compared with the common goosberry. the stem is covered with very sharp

thorns or bryers. below the tree forks as we passed this morning I

observed many collections of the mud nests of the small martin

attatched to the smooth face of the limestone rocks sheltered by

projections of the same rock above. Our hunters returned this evening

with 6 deer 3 Otter and a musk rat. they informed me that they had seen

great numbers of Antelopes, and much sign of beaver Otter deer Elk, &c.

at 3 P.M. Capt Clark arrived very sick with a high fever on him and

much fatiegued and exhausted. he informed me that he was very sick all

last night had a high fever and frequent chills & constant aking pains

in all his mustles. this morning notwithstanding his indisposition he

pursued his intended rout to the middle fork about 8 miles and finding

no recent sign of Indians rested about an hour and came down the middle

fork to this place. Capt. C. thought himself somewhat bilious and had

not had a passage for several days; I prevailed on him to take a doze

of Rushes pills, which I have always found sovereign in such cases and

to bath his feet in warm water and rest himself. Capt. C's

indisposition was a further inducement for my remaining here a couple

of days; I therefore informed the men of my intention, and they put

their deer skins in the water in order to prepare them for dressing

tomorrow. we begin to feel considerable anxiety with rispect to the

Snake Indians. if we do not find them or some other nation who have

horses I fear the successfull issue of our voyage will be very

doubtfull or at all events much more difficult in it's accomplishment.

we are now several hundred miles within the bosom of this wild and

mountanous country, where game may rationally be expected shortly to

become scarce and subsistence precarious without any information with

rispect to the country not knowing how far these mountains continue, or

wher to direct our course to pass them to advantage or intersept a

navigable branch of the Columbia, or even were we on such an one the

probability is that we should not find any timber within these

mountains large enough for canoes if we judge from the portion of them

through which we have passed. however I still hope for the best, and

intend taking a tramp myself in a few days to find these yellow

gentlemen if possible. my two principal consolations are that from our

present position it is impossible that the S. W. fork can head with the

waters of any other river but the Columbia, and that if any Indians can

subsist in the form of a nation in these mountains with the means they

have of acquiring food we can also subsist. Capt. C. informed me that

there is a part of this bottom on the West side of the Middle fork near

the plain, which appears to overflow occasionally and is stony.

[Clark, July 27, 1805]

July 27th Saturday 1805

I was verry unwell all last night with a high fever & akeing in all my

bones. my fever &c. continus, deturmind to prosue my intended rout to

the middle fork, accordingly Set out in great pain across a Prarie 8

miles to the Middle this fork is nearly as large as the North fork &

appears to be more rapid, we examined and found no fresh Sign of

Indians, and after resting about an hour, proceeded down to the

junction thro a wide bottom which appears to be overflown every year, &

maney parts Stoney this river has Several Islands and number of beaver

& orter, but little timber. we could See no fresh Sign of Indians just

above the Point I found Capt Lewis encamped haveing arrived about 2

oClock. Several Deer killed this evening. I continue to be verry unwell

fever verry high; take 5 of rushes pills & bathe my feet & legs in hot

water

[Lewis, July 28, 1805]

Sunday July 28th 1805.

My friend Capt. Clark was very sick all last night but feels himself

somwhat better this morning since his medicine has opperated. I

dispatched two men early this morning up the S. E. Fork to examine the

river; and permitted sundry others to hunt in the neighbourhood of this

place. Both Capt. C. and myself corrisponded in opinon with rispect to

the impropriety of calling either of these streams the Missouri and

accordingly agreed to name them after the President of the United

States and the Secretaries of the Treasury and state having previously

named one river in honour of the Secretaries of War and Navy. In

pursuance of this resolution we called the S. W. fork, that which we

meant to ascend, Jefferson's River in honor of Thomas Jefferson. the

Middle fork we called Madison's River in honor of James Madison, and

the S. E. Fork we called Gallitin's River in honor of Albert Gallitin.

the two first are 90 yards wide and the last is 70 yards. all of them

run with great valocity and thow out large bodies of water. Gallitin's

River is reather more rapid than either of the others, is not quite as

deep but from all appearances may be navigated to a considerable

distance. Capt. C. who came down Madison's river yesterday and has also

seen Jefferson's some distance thinks Madison's reather the most rapid,

but it is not as much so by any means as Gallitin's. the beds of all

these streams are formed of smooth pebble and gravel, and their waters

perfectly transparent; in short they are three noble streams. there is

timber enough here to support an establishment, provided it be erected

with brick or stone either of which would be much cheaper than wood as

all the materials for such a work are immediately at the spot. there

are several small sand-bars along the shores at no great distance of

very pure sand and the earth appears as if it would make good brick. I

had all our baggage spread out to dry this morning; and the day proving

warm, I had a small bower or booth erected for the comfort of Capt. C.

our leather lodge when exposed to the sun is excessively hot. I observe

large quantities of the sand rush in these bottoms which grow in many

places as high as a man's breast and stand as thick as the stalks of

wheat usually do. this affords one of the best winter pastures on earth

for horses or cows, and of course will be much in favour of an

establishment should it ever be thought necessary to fix one at this

place. the grass is also luxouriant and would afford a fine swarth of

hay at this time in parsels of many acres together. all those who are

not hunting altho much fatiegued are busily engaged in dressing their

skins, making mockersons leggings &c to make themselves comfortable.

the Musquetoes are more than usually troublesome, the knats are not as

much so. in the evening about 4 O'Ck the wind blew hard from South West

and after some little time brought on a Cloud attended with thunder and

Lightning from which we had a fine refreshing shower which cooled the

air considerably; the showers continued with short intervals untill

after dark. in the evening the hunters all returned they had killed 8

deer and 2 Elk. some of the deer wer in excellent order. those whome I

had sent up Gallitin's river reported that after it passed the point to

which I had seen it yesterday that it turned more to the East to a

considerable distance or as far as they could discover the opening of

the Mountains formed by it's valley which was many miles. the bottoms

were tolerably wide but not as much so as at or near it's mouth. it's

current is rappid and the stream much divided with islands but is

sufficiently deep for canoe navigation. Our present camp is precisely

on the spot that the Snake Indians were encamped at the time the

Minnetares of the Knife R. first came in sight of them five years

since. from hence they retreated about three miles up Jeffersons river

and concealed themselves in the woods, the Minnetares pursued, attacked

them, killed 4 men 4 women a number of boys, and mad prisoners of all

the females and four boys, Sah-cah-gar-we-ah or Indian woman was one of

the female prisoners taken at that time; tho I cannot discover that she

shews any immotion of sorrow in recollecting this event, or of joy in

being again restored to her native country; if she has enough to eat

and a few trinkets to wear I beleive she would be perfectly content

anywhere.

[Clark, July 28, 1805]

July 28th Sunday 1805

I was verry unwell all night, Something better this morning, a very

worm day untill 4 oClock when the wind rose & blew hard from the S W.

and was Cloudy, The Thermometr. Stood at 90° above 0 in the evening a

heavy thunder Shower from the S W. which continud at intervales untill

after dark, Several deer killed to day men all employed dressing Skins

for Clothes & Mockersons, two men went up the East fork & reports that

it is nearly the Size of the N. fork, verry rapid & has maney Islands.

Our present Camp is the prosise Spot the Snake Indians were Camped at

the time the Minetarries came in Sight, attacked & killed 4 men 4 women

& a number of boys, & made prisoners of all. the females & 4 boys.

[Lewis, July 29, 1805]

Monday July 29th 1805.

This morning some of the hunters turned out and returned in a few hours

with four fat bucks, the venison is now very fine we have killed no

mule deer since we lay here, they are all of the longtailed red deer

which appear quite as large as those of the United States. the hunters

brought in a living young sandhill crane it has nearly obtained it's

growth but cannot fly; they had pursued it and caught it in the

meadows. it's colour is precisely that of the red deer. we see a number

of the old or full grown crams of this species feeding in these

meadows. this young animal is very ferce and strikes a severe blow with

his beak; after amusing myself with it I had it set at liberty and it

moved off apparently much pleased with being releived from his

captivity. the men have been busily engaged all day in dising skins and

making them into various garments all are leather dressers and taylors.

we see a great abundance of fish in the stream some of which we take to

be trout but they will not bite at any bate we can offer them. the King

fisher is common on the river since we have left the falls of the

Missouri. we have not seen the summer duck since we left that place,

nor do I beleive that it is an inhabitant of the Rocky mountains. the

Duckanmallard were first seen with their young on the 20th inst. and I

forgot to note it; they are now abundant with their young but do not

breed in the missouri below the mountains. the grasshopers and crickets

are abundant in the plains as are also the small birds frequently

mentioned. there is also in these plains a large ant with a redish

brown body and legs, and a black head and abdomen; they construct

little perimids of small gravel in a conic shape, about 10 or 12 inches

high without a mixture of sticks and with but little earth. Capt. Clark

is much better today, is perfectly clear of fever but still very

languid and complains of a general soarness in all his limbs. I

prevailed on him to take the barks which he has done and eate tolerably

freely of our good venison.

[Clark, July 29, 1805]

July 29 Monday 1805

A fair morning wind from the North I feel my Self something better to

day, made some Celestial observations took two Merdn. altitudes which

gave for Latd. 45° 22' 34" N men all dressing Skins &c.

[Lewis, July 30, 1805]

Tuesday July 30th 1805.

Capt. Clark being much better this morning and having completed my

observations we reloaded our canoes and set out, ascending Jeffersons

river. Sharbono, his woman two invalleds and myself walked through the

bottom on the Lard. side of the river about 41/2 miles when we again

struck it at the place the woman informed us that she was taken

prisoner. here we halted untill Capt. Clark arrived which was not

untill after one P.M. the water being strong and the river extreemly

crooked. we dined and again proceeded on; as the river now passed

through the woods the invalleds got on board together with Sharbono and

the Indian woman; I passed the river and continued my walk on the

Stard. side. saw a vast number of beaver in many large dams which they

had maid in various bayoes of the river which are distributed to the

distance of three or four miles on this side of the river over an

extensive bottom of timbered and meadow lands intermixed. in order to

avoid these bayoes and beaver dams which I found difficult to pass I

directed my course to the high plain to the right which I gained after

some time with much difficulty and waiding many beaver dams to my waist

in mud and water. I would willingly have joined the canoes but the

brush were so thick, the river crooked and bottoms intercepted in such

manner by the beaver dams, that I found it uceless to attempt to find

them, and therefore proceeded on up the river in order to intersept it

where it came near the plain and woult be more collected into one

channel. at length about sunset I arrived at the river only about six

miles from my calculation on a direct line from the place I had left

the canoes but I thought they were still below me. I found the river

was divided where I reached it by an Island and was therefore fearfull

that they might pass without my seeing them, and went down to the lower

point of the large island; here I discovered a small Island, close

under the shore on which I was; I passed the narrow channel to the

small island and examined the gravly bar along the edge of the river

for the tracks of the men, knowing from the appearance of the river at

this place that if they had passed they would have used the cord on the

side where I was. I saw no tracks and was then fully convinced that

they were below me. I fired my gun and hallooed but counld hear nothing

of them. by this time it was getting nearly dark and a duck lit on the

shore in about 40 steps of me and I killed it; having now secured my

supper I looked our for a suitable place to amuse myself in combating

the musquetoes for the ballance of the evening. I found a parsel of

drift wood at the head of the little Island on which I was and

immediately set it on fire and collected some willow brush to lye on. I

cooked my duck which I found very good and after eating it layed down

and should have had a comfortable nights lodge but for the musquetoes

which infested me all night. late at night I was awakened by the nois

of some animal runing over the stoney bar on which I lay but did not

see it; from the weight with which it ran I supposed it to be either an

Elk or a brown bear. the latter are very abundant in this

neighbourhood. the night was cool but I felt very little inconvenience

from it as I had a large fire all night. Capt. Clark had proceeded on

after I seperated from him and encamped on a islad. only about 2 miles

below me but did not hear the report of my gun nor of my hooping.-I saw

some deer and antelopes.

[Clark, July 30, 1805]

July 30th Monday 1805

We Set out 8 oClock and proceeded on 131/2 miles up the N. fork the

river verry rapid & Sholey the Channel entirely Corse gravel many

Islands and a number of Chanels in different directions thro the bottom

&c. passed the place the Squar interpretress was taken, one man with

his Sholder Strained, 2 with Turners, we Camped on the Std. Side the

evening Cool. Capt Lewis who walkd on Shore did not join me this evening

[Lewis, July 31, 1805]

Wednesday July 31st 1805.

This morning I waited at my camp very impatiently for the arrival of

Capt. Clark and party; I observed by my watch that it was 7 A.M. and

they had not come in sight. I now became very uneasy and determined to

wait until 8 and if they did not arrive by that time to proceed on up

the river taking it as a fact that they had passed my camp some miles

last evening. just as I set out to pursue my plan I discovered Charbono

walking up shore some distance below me and waited untill arrived I now

learnt that the canoes were behind, they arrived shortly after. their

detention had been caused by the rapidity of the water and the

circuitous rout of the river. they halted and breakfasted after which

we all set out again and I continued my walk on the Stard. shore the

river now becomes more collected the islands tho numerous ar generally

small. the river continues rapid and is from 90 to 120 yd. wide has a

considerable quantity of timber in it's bottoms. towards evening the

bottoms became much narrower and the timber much more scant. high hills

set in close on the Lard. and the plain high waivy or reather broken on

the Stard. and approach the river closely for a shot distance vally

above 11/2 M wd. About one mile above Capt. Clark's encampment of the

last evening the principall entrance of a considerable river discharges

itself into Jefferson's river. this stream is a little upwards of 30

yd. wide discharges a large quantity of very clear water it's bed like

that of Jefferson's river is pebble and gravel. it takes it's rise in

the snowclad mountains between Jefferson's and Madison's Rivers to the

S. W. and discharges itself into the former by seven mouths it has some

timber in it's bottoms and vas numbers of beaver and Otter. this stream

we call River Philosophy. the rock of the clifts this evening is a hard

black grannite like that of the clifts of most parts of the river below

the limestone clifts at the 3 forks of the Missouri this evening just

before we encamped Drewyer discovered a brown bear enter a small cops

of bushes on the Lard. side; we surrounded the place an surched the

brush but he had escaped in some manner unperceived but how we could

not discover. nothing killed today and our fresh meat is out. when we

have a plenty of fresh meat I find it impossible to make the men take

any care of it, or use it with the least frugallity. tho I expect that

necessity will shortly teach them this art. the mountiains on both

sides of the river at no great distance are very lofty. we have a lame

crew just now, two with turners or bad boils on various parts of them,

one with a bad stone bruise, one with his arm accedently dislocated but

fortunately well replaced, and a fifth has streigned his back by

sliping and falling backwards on the gunwall of the canoe. the latter

is Sergt. Gass. it gives him great pain to work in the canoe in his

present situation, but he thinks he can walk with convenience, I

therefore scelected him as one of the party to accompany me tomorrow,

being determined to go in quest of the Snake Indians. I also directed

Drewyer and Charbono to hold themselves in readiness. Charbono thinks

that his ankle is sufficiently recovered to stand the march but I

entertain my doubts of the fact; he is very anxious to accompany me and

I therefore indulge him. There is some pine on the hills on both sides

of the river opposite to our encampment which is on the Lard. side upon

a small island just above a run. the bull rush & Cat-tail flag grow in

great abundance in the moist parts of the bottoms the dryer situations

are covered with fine grass, tanzy, thistles, onions and flax. the

bottom land fertile and of a black rich loam. the uplands poor sterile

and of a light yellow clay with a mixture of small smooth pebble and

gravel, poducing prickley pears, sedge and the bearded grass in great

abundance; this grass is now so dry that it would birn like tinder.--we

saw one bighorn today a few antelopes and deer.-

[Clark, July 31, 1805]

July 31st Tuesday 1805

a fair Morning Capt Lewis out all night, we arrived at his Camp to

brackfast, he was without a blanket, & he killed a Duck whiche Suped on

&c. the river as yesterday Sholey & rapid, passed the lower mouth of a

Small river on the Lard. in the morning & the upper mouth a ____ Miles

above, this little river is the one I camped on the 26th & heads in the

Snow mountains to the S W. proceeded on verry well and Camped on a

Small Island a little above the place I Camped the 25th instant at the

mouth of a run on the Lard Side, the bottoms from the Mouth of the

river extend to 21/2 Miles & enter a Short & high hill which is about 1

mile thro and, the river then passes thro a 2d value of about 11/2

Miles wide, Some Islands. below this Knobe the river is Crouded with

Islands, we are out of fresh meet, & nothing killed to day The

Mountains on either Side is high & rough we have two men with toumers

and unable to work.

Capt Lewis deturmin to proceed on with three men in Serch of the Snake

Indians, tomorrow

[Lewis, August 1, 1805]

August 1st 1805

At half after 8 A.M. we halted for breakfast and as had been previously

agreed on between Capt. Clark and myself I set out with 3 men in quest

of the Snake Indians. the men I took were the two Interpreters Drewyer

and Sharbono and Sergt. Gass who by an accedental fall had so disabled

himself that it was with much pain he could work in the canoes tho he

could march with convenience. the rout we took lay over a rough high

range of mountains on the North side of the river. the rive entered

these mountains a few miles above where we left it. Capt Clark

recommended this rout to me from a belief that the river as soon as it

past the mountains boar to the N. of W. he having a few days before

ascended these mountains to a position from which he discovered a large

valley passing betwen the mountains and which boar to the N. West. this

however poved to be the inlet of a large creek which discharged itself

into the river just above this range of mountans, the river bearing to

the S. W. we were therefore thrown several miles out of our rout. as

soon as we discovered our mistake we directed our course to the river

which we at length gained about 2 P.M. much exhausted by the heat of

the day the roughnes of the road and the want of water. the mountains

are extreemly bare of timber and our rout lay through the steep valleys

exposed to the heat of the sun without shade and scarcely a breath of

air; and to add to my fatiegue in this walk of about 11 miles I had

taken a doze of glauber salts in the morning in consequence of a slight

desentary with which I had been afflicted for several days; being

weakened by the disorder and the opperation of the medecine I found

myself almost exhausted before we reached the river. I felt my sperits

much revived on our near approach to the river at the sight of a herd

of Elk of which Drewyer and myself killed two. we then hurried to the

river and allayed our thirst. I ordered two of the men to skin the Elk

and bring the meat to the river while myself and the other prepared a

fire and cooked some of the meat for our dinner. we made a comfortable

meal of the Elk and left the ballance of the meat on the bank of the

river the party with Capt. Clark. this supply was no doubt very

acceptable to them as they had had no fresh meat for near two days

except one beaver Game being very scarce and shy. we had seen a few

deer and some goats but had not been fortunate enough to kill any of

them. after dinner we resumed our march and encamped about 6 m. above

on the Stard side of the river.

[Lewis, August 1, 1805]

Thursday August 1st 1805.

This morning we set out early and proceeded on tolerably well untill 8

OCT. by which time we had arrived within a few miles of a mountain

through which the river passes. we halted on the Stard. side and took

breakfast. after which or at 1/2 after 8 A.M. as had been previously

concerted betwen Capt. Clark and myself I set out with three men in

surch of the Snake Indians or Sosonees. our rout lay over a high range

of mountains on the North side of the river. Capt C. recommended this

rout to me no doubt from a beleif that the river as soon as it passed

this chain of mountains boar to the N. of W. he having on the 26th ult.

ascended these mountains to a position from whence he discoved a large

valley passing between the mountains which boar to the N. W. and

presumed that the river passed in that direction; this however proved

to be the passage of a large creek which discharged itself into the

river just above this range of mountains, the river bearing to the S.

W. we were therefore thrown several miles out of our rout. as soon as

we discovered our error we directed our course to the river which we at

length gained about 2 P.M. much exhausted by the heat of the day, the

roughness of the road and the want of water. the mountains are

extreemly bare of timber, and our rout lay through the steep and narrow

hollows of the mountains exposed to the intese heat of the midday sun

without shade or scarcely a breath of air to add to my fatiegue in this

walk of about 11 miles, I had taken a doze of glauber salts in the

morning in consequence of a slight disentary with which I had been

afflicted for several days. being weakened by the disorder and the

operation of the medicine I found myself almost exhausted before we

reached the river. I felt my sperits much revived on our near approach

to the river at the sight of a herd of Elk, of which Drewyer and myself

soon killed a couple. we then hurryed to the river and allayed our

thirst. I ordered two of the men to skin the Elk and bring the meat to

the river, while myself and the other prepared a fire and cooked some

of the meat for our dinner. we made a comfortable meal on the Elk, and

left the ballance of the meat and skins on the bank of the river for

Capt. Clark and party. this supply will no doubt be acceptable to them,

as they had had no fresh meat when I left them for almost 2 days except

one beaver; game being very scarce and shy above the forks. we had seen

a few deer and antelopes but had not been fortunate enough to kill any

of them. as I passed these mountains I saw a flock of the black or dark

brown phesants; the young phesant is almost grown we killed one of

them. this bird is fully a third larger than the common phesant of the

Atlantic states. it's form is much the same. it is booted nearly to the

toes and the male has not the tufts of long black feathers on the sides

of the neck which are so conspicuous in those of the Atlantic. their

colour is a uniform dark brown with a small mixture of yellow or

yelloish brown specks on some of the feathers particularly those of the

tail, tho the extremities of these are perfectly black for about one

inch. the eye is nearly black, the iris has a small dash of yellowish

brown. the feathers of the tail are reather longer than that of our

phesant or pattridge as they are Called in the Eastern States; are the

same in number or eighteen and all nearly of the same length, those in

the intermediate part being somewhat longest. the flesh of this bird is

white and agreeably flavored. I also saw near the top of the mountain

among some scattering pine a blue bird about the size of the common

robbin. it's action and form is somewhat that of the jay bird and never

rests long in any one position but constantly flying or hoping from

sprey to sprey. I shot at one of them but missed it. their note is loud

and frequently repeated both flying and when at rest and is char ah',

char'ah, char ah', as nearly as letters can express it. after dinner we

resumed our march and my pack felt much lighter than it had done about

2 hours before. we traveled about six miles further and encamped on the

stard. bank of the river, making a distance of 17 miles for this day.

the Musquetoes were troublesome but I had taken the precaution of

bringing my bier.

Shortly after I left Capt. Clark this morning he proceed on and passed

through the mountains; they formed tremendious clifts of ragged and

nearly perpendicular rocks; the lower.part of this rock is of the

black grannite before mentioned and the upper part a light coloured

freestone. these clifts continue for 9 miles and approach the river

very closely on either side. he found the current verry strong. Capt.

C. killed a big horn on these clifts which himself and party dined on.

after passing this range of mountains he entered this beautifull valley

in which we also were it is from 6 to 8 miles wide. the river is

crooked and crouded with islands, it's bottoms wide fertile and covered

with fine grass from 9 inches to 2 feet high and possesses but a scant

proportion of timber, which consists almost entirely of a few narrow

leafed cottonwood trees distributed along the verge of the river. in

the evening Capt. C. found the Elk I had left him and ascended a short

distance above to the entrance of a large creek which falls in on

Stard. and encamped opposite to it on the Lard. side. he sent out the

two Fieldses to hunt this evening and they killed 5 deer, which with

the Elk again gave them a plentifull store of fresh provisions. this

large creek we called Field's Creek after Reubin Fields one our party.

on the river about the mountains wich Capt. C. passed today he saw some

large cedar trees and some juniper also just at the upper side of the

mountain there is a bad rappid here the toe line of our canoe broke in

the shoot of the rapids and swung on the rocks and had very nearly

overset. a small distance above this rapid a large bold Creek falls in

on Lard. side which we called Frazier's Creek after Robt. Frazier. They

saw a large brown bear feeding on currants but could not get a shoot at

him.

[Clark, August 1, 1805]

August 1st Wednesday 1805

A fine day Capt. Lewis left me at 8 oClock just below the place I

entered a verrey high mountain which jutted its tremedious Clifts on

either Side for 9 Miles, the rocks ragide Some verry dark & other part

verry light rock the light rocks is Sand Stone. The water Swift & very

Sholey. I killed a Ibix on which the whole party Dined, after passing

through the Mountain we entered a wide extesive vallie of from 4 to 8

Miles wide verry leavell a Creek falls in at the Commencement of this

Vallie on the Lard Side, the river widens & spreds into Small Chanels.

We encamped on the Lard Side opposit a large Creek I sent out Jo. & R

fields to hunt this evening they killed 5 Deer, I saw a large Bear

eateing Currents this evining The river so rapid that the greatest

exertion is required by all to get the boats on wind S W Murckery at

sun rise 50° Ab. 0

[Lewis, August 2, 1805]

August 2nd 1805.

We resumed our march this morning at sunrise the weather was fair and

wind from N. W. finding that the river still boar to the south I

determined to pass it if possible to shorten our rout this we effected

about five miles above our camp of last evening by wading it. found the

current very rappid about 90 yards wide and waist deep this is the

first time that I ever dared to make the attempt to wade the river, tho

there are many places between this and the three forks where I presume

it migh be attempted with equal success. the valley though which our

rout of this day lay and through which the river winds it's meandering

course is a beatifull level plain with but little timber and that on

the verge of the river. the land is tolerably fertile, consisting of a

black or dark yellow loam, and covered with grass from 9 Inches to 2

feet high. the plain ascends gradually on either side of the river to

the bases of two ranges of mountains which ly parrallel to the river

and which terminate the width of the vally. the tops of these mountains

were yet partially covered with snow while we in the valley. were

suffocated nearly with the intense heat of the midday sun. the nights

are so could that two blankets are not more than sufficient covering.

we found a great courants, two kinds of which were red, others yellow

deep purple and black, also black goosburies and service buries now

ripe and in full perfection, we feasted suptuously on our wild fruit

particularly the yellow courant and the deep purple servicebury which I

found to be excellent the courrant grows very much like the red currant

common to the gardens in the atlantic states tho the leaf is somewhat

different and the growth taller. the service burry grows on a smaller

bush and differs from ours only in colour and the superior excellence

of it's flavor and size, it is of a deep purple. this day we saw an

abundance of deer and goats or antelopes and a great number of the

tracks of Elk; of the former we killed two. we continued our rout along

this valley which is from six to eight Miles wide untill sun set when

we encamped for the night on the river bank having traveled about 24

miles. I feel myself perfectly recovered of my indisposition and do not

doubt being able to pursue my march with equal comfort in the morning.

[Lewis, August 2, 1805]

Friday August 2cd 1805.

We resumed our march this morning at sunrise; the day was fair and wind

from N. W. finding that the river still boar to the South I determined

to pass it if possible in order to shorten our rout; this we effected

by wading the river about 5 miles above our encampment of the last

evening. we found the current very rapid waist deep and about 90 yd.

wide bottom smooth pebble with a small mixture of coarse gravel. this

is the first time that I ever dared to wade the river, tho there are

many places between this and the forks where I presume it might be

attempted with equal success. The vally allong which we passed today,

and through which the river winds it's meandering course is from 6 to 8

miles wide and consists of a beatifull level plain with but little

timber and that confined to the verge of the river; the land is

tolerably fertile, and is either black or a dark yellow loam, covered

with grass from 9 inches to 2 feet high. the plain ascends gradually on

either side of the river to the bases of two ranges of high mountains,

which lye parallel to the river and prescribe the limits of the plains.

the tops of these mountains are yet covered partially with snow, while

we in the valley are nearly suffocated with the intense heat of the

midday sun; the nights are so cold that two blankets are not more than

sufficient covering. soon after passing the river this morning Sergt.

Gass lost my tommahawk in the thick brush and we were unable to find

it, I regret the loss of this usefull implement, however accedents will

happen in the best families, and I consoled myself with the

recollection that it was not the only one we had with us. the bones of

the buffaloe and their excrement of an old date are to be met with in

every part of this valley but we have long since lost all hope of

meeting with that animal in these mountains. we met with great

quantities of currants today, two species of which were red, others

yellow, deep perple and black; also black goosberries and

serviceberries now ripe and in great perfection. we feasted sumptuously

on our wild fruits, particularly the yellow currant and the deep perple

serviceberries, which I found to be excellent. the serviceberry grows

on a small bush and differs from ours only in colour size and superior

excellence of it's flavour. it is somewhat larger than ours. on our way

we saw an abundance of deer Antelopes, of the former we killed 2. we

also saw many tracks of the Elk and bear. no recent appearance of

Indians. the Indians in this part of the country appear to construct

their lodges with the willow boughs and brush; they are small of a

conic figure and have a small aperture on one side through which they

enter. we continued our rout up this valley on the Lard. side of the

river untill sunset, at which time we encamped on the Lard. bank of the

river having traveled 24 miles. we had brought with us a good stock of

venison of which we eat a hearty supper. I feel myself perfectly

recovered of my indisposition, and do not doubt being able to pursue my

rout tomorrow with the same comfort I have done today.--we saw some

very large beaver dams today in the bottoms of the river several of

which wer five feet high and overflowed several acres of land; these

dams are formed of willow brush mud and gravel and are so closely

interwoven that they resist the water perfectly. the base of this work

is thick and rises nearly perpendicularly on the lower side while the

upper side or that within the dam is gently sloped. the brush appear to

be laid in no regular order yet acquires a strength by the irregularity

with which they are placed by the beaver that it would puzzle the

engenuity of man to give them.

Capt. Clark continued his rout early this morning. the rapidity of the

current was such that his progress was slow, in short it required the

utmost exertion of the men to get on, nor could they resist this

current by any other means than that of the cord and pole. in the

course of the day they passed some villages of burrowing squirrels, saw

a number of beaver dams and the inhabitants of them, many young ducks

both of the Duckanmallard and the redheaded fishing duck, gees, several

rattle snakes, black woodpeckers, and a large gang of Elk; they found

the river much crouded with island both large and small and passed a

small creek on Stard. side which we called birth Creek. Capt. Clark

discovers a tumor rising on the inner side of his ankle this evening

which was painfull to him. they incamped in a level bottom on the Lard.

side.-

[Clark, August 2, 1805]

August 2nd Friday 1805

a fine day Set out early the river has much the Same kind of banks

Chanel Current &c. as it had in the last vallie, I walked out this

morning on Shore & Saw Several rattle Snakes in the plain, the wind

from the S W we proceeded on with great dificuelty from the rapidity of

the current & rapids, abt. 15 miles and Encamped on the Lard Side, saw

a large Gangue of Elk at Sunset to the S W. passed a Small Creek on the

Stard Side and maney large and Small Islands. Saw a number of young

Ducks as we have also Seen everry Day, Some geese I saw Black

woodpeckers--I have either got my foot bitten by Some poisonous insect

or a turner is riseing on the inner bone of my ankle which is painfull

[Lewis, August 3, 1805]

August the 3rd 1805.

Set out this morning at sunrise and continued our rout through the

valley on the Lard. side of the river. at eleven A.M. Drewyer killed a

doe and we halted and took breakfast. the mountains continue high on

either side of the valley, and are but skantily supplyed with timber;

small pine appears to be the prevalent growth. there is no timber in

the valley except a small quantity of the narrow leafed cottonwood on

the verge of the river. the underwood consists of the narrowleafed or

small willow, honeysuckle rosebushes, courant, goosbury and service

bury bushes allso a small quantity of a species of dwarf burch the leaf

of which, oval, deep green, finely indented and very small. we encamped

this evening after sunset having traveled by estimate 23 miles. from

the width and appearance of the valley at this place I concieved that

the river forked not far above me and therefore resolved the next

morning to examine the adjacent country more minutely.

[Lewis, August 3, 1805]

Saturday August 3rd 1805.

Set out early this morning, or before sunrise; still continued our

march through the level valley on the lard. side of the river. the

valley much as yesterday only reather wider; I think it 12 Miles wide,

tho the plains near the mountains rise higher and are more broken with

some scattering pine near the mountain. in the leaveler parts of the

plain and river bottoms which are very extensive there is no timber

except a scant proportion of cottonwood neat the river. the under wood

consists of the narrow leafed or small willow, the small honeysuckle,

rosebushes, currant, serviceberry, and goosbery bushes; also a small

species of berth in but small quantities the leaf which is oval finely,

indented, small and of a deep green colour. the stem is simple

ascending and branching, and seldom rises higher than 10 or 12 feet.

the Mountains continue high on either side of the valley, and are but

scantily supplyed with timber; small pine apears to be the prevalent

growth; it is of the pith kind, with a short leaf. at 11 A.M. Drewyer

killed a doe and we halted about 2 hours and breakfasted, and then

continued our rout untill night without halting, when we arrived at the

river in a level bottom which appeared to spread to greater extent than

usual. from the appearance of the timber I supposed that the river

forked above us and resolved to examine this part of the river minutely

tomorrow. this evening we passed through a high plain for about 8 miles

covered with prickley pears and bearded grass, tho we found this even

better walking than the wide bottoms of the river, which we passed in

the evening; these altho apparently level, from some cause which I know

not, were formed into meriads of deep holes as if rooted up by hogs

these the grass covered so thick that it was impossible to walk without

the risk of falling down at every step. some parts of these bottoms

also possess excellent terf or peat, I beleive of many feet deep. the

mineral salts also frequently mentioned on the Missouri we saw this

evening in these uneven bottoms. we saw many deer, Antelopes ducks,

gees, some beaver and great appearance of their work. also a small bird

and the Curlooe as usual. we encamped on the river bank on Lard. side

having traveled by estimate 23 Miles. The fish of this part of the

river are trout and a species of scale fish of a white colour and a

remarkable small long mouth which one of our men inform us are the same

with the species called in the Eastern states bottlenose. the snowey

region of the mountains and for some distance below has no timber or

herbage of any kind; the timber is confined to the lower and middle

regions. Capt. Clark set out this morning as usual. he walked on shore

a small distance this morning and killed a deer. in the course of his

walk he saw a track which he supposed to be that of an Indian from the

circumstance of the large toes turning inward. he pursued the track and

found that the person had ascended a point of a hill from which his

camp of the last evening was visible; this circumstance also confirmed

the beleif of it's being an Indian who had thus discovered them and ran

off. they found the river as usual much crouded with islands, the

currant more rapid & much more shallow than usual. in many places they

were obliged to double man the canoes and drag them over the stone and

gravel. this morning they passed a small creek on Stard. at the

entrance of which Reubin Fields killed a large Panther. we called the

creek after that animal Panther Creek. they also passed a handsome

little stream on Lard. which is form of several large springs which

rise in the bottoms and along the base of the mountains with some

little rivulets from the melting snows. the beaver have formed many

large dams on this stream. they saw some deer Antelopes and the common

birds of the country. in the evening they passed a very bad rappid

where the bed of the river is formed entrely of solid rock and encamped

on an island just above. the Panther which Fields killed measured seven

and 1/2 feet from the nose to the extremity of the tail. it is precisely

the same animal common to the western part of our country. the men wer

compelled to be a great proportion of their time in the water today;

they have had a severe days labour and are much fortiegued.

[Clark, August 3, 1805]

August 3rd Saturday1805

a fine morning wind from the N E I walked on Shore & killed a Deer in

my walk I saw a fresh track which I took to be an Indian from the Shape

of the foot as the toes turned in, I think it probable that this Indian

Spied our fires and Came to a Situation to view us from the top of a

Small knob on the Lard Side. the river more rapid and Sholey than

yesterday one R. F. man killed a large Panthor on the Shore we are

oblige to haul over the Canoes Sholey in maney places where the Islands

are noumerous and bottom Sholey, in the evening the river more rapid

and Sholey we encamped on an Island avove a part of the river which

passed thro a rockey bed enclosed on both sides with thick willow

current & red buries &c &c passed a bold Stream which heads in the

mountains to our right and the drean of the minting Snow in the Montn.

on that side ar in View--at 4 oClock passed a bold Stream which falls

from a mountn in three Channels to our left, the Greater portion of the

Snow on this mountain is melted, but little remaining near us Some Deer

Elk & antelopes & Bear in the bottoms. but fiew trees and they Small

the Mountains on our left Contain pine those on our right but verry

partially Supplied and what pine & cedar it has is on the Lower region,

no wood being near the Snow. great numbers of Beaver Otter &c. Some

fish trout & and bottle nose. Birds as usial. Geese young Ducks &

Curlows

[Lewis, August 4, 1805]

August 4th 1805.

Set out very early this morning and steered S. E. by E. about 4 Miles

when we passed a bould runing creek about 12 yards wide the water could

and remarkably clear, we then changed our course to S. E. passing

obliquely across a valley which boar nearly E leaving the valley which

we had pursued for the 2 precedeing days. at the distance of 3 miles we

passed a handsome little river which passes through this valley; it is

about 30 yards wide affords a considerable quantity of water and I

believe it may be navigated some miles. I then changed my rout to S. W.

passed a high plain which lyes between the vallies and returned to the

S. valley, in passing which I fell in with a river about 45 yards wide

which I waideg and then continued my rout down to it's junction with

the river just mentioned, and from thence to the entrance of the creek

which falls in about 2 miles below; still continuing my rout down this

stream about three miles further and about 2 M. below our encampment of

the last evening this river forms a junction with a river 50 yards wide

which comes from the N. W. and falling into the S. valley runs

parrallel with the middle fork about 12 miles. this is a bould rappid &

clear stream it's bed so broken and obstructed by gravel bars and

Islands that it appeared to me impossible to navigate it with safety.

the middle fork is gentle and possesses about 2/3ds as much water as

this rappid stream, it's cours so far as I can observe it is about S.

W. and it appears to be navigable; its water is much warmer than that

of the rappid fork and somewhat turbid, from which I concluded that it

had it's source at a greater distance in the mountains and passed

through an opener country than the other. under this impression I wrote

a note to Capt. Clark recommending his taking the middle fork provided

he should arrive at this place before my return which I expect will be

the day after tomorrow. the note I left on a pole at the forks of the

river and having refreshed ourselves and eat heartily of some venison

we killed this morning I continued my rout up the Stard side of the N.

W. fork, determining to pursue it untill 12 OC. the next day and then

pass over to the middle fork and return to their junction or untill I

met Capt. Clark. we encamped this evening near the point where the

river leaves the valley and enters the mountains, having traveled about

20 miles.-

[Lewis, August 4, 1805]

Sunday August 4th 1805.

Set out very early this morning and Steered S. E. by E. 4 M. when we

pased a bold runing Creek 12 yds. wide, the water of which was clear

and very cold. it appears to be formed by four dranes from the snowey

mountains to our left. after passing this creek we changed our

direction to S. E. passing obliquely across a valley which boar E

leaving the valley we had pursued for the two peceeding days. at the

distance of 3 Ms. we passed a handsome little river which meanders

through this valley; it is about 30 yds wide, affords a considerable

quantity of water and appears as if it might be navigated some miles.

the currant is not rapid nor the water very clear; the banks are low

and the bed formed of stone and gravel. I now changed my rout to S. W.

passed a high plain which lies betwen the valleies and returned to the

South valley, in passing which I fell in with a river about 45 yds.

wide gravley bottom gentle currant waist deep and water of a whitish

blue tinge. this stream we waded and continued our rout down it to the

entrance of the river just mentioned about 3/4 of a mile. still

continuing down we passed the entrance of the creek about 2 miles lower

down; and at the distance of three miles further arrived at it's

junction with a river 50 yds. wide which Comes from the S. W. and

falling into the South valley runs parallel with the middle fork about

12 miles before it forms a junction. I now found that our encampment of

the last evening was about 11/2 miles above the entrance of this large

river on Stard. this is a bold rappid and Clear Stream, it's bed so

much broken and obstructed by gravley bars and it's waters so much

subdivided by Islands that it appears to me utterly impossible to

navigate it with safety. the middle fork is gentle and possesses about

2/3rds as much water as this stream. it's course so far as I can

observe it is about S. W., and from the opening of the valley I beleive

it still bears more to the West above it may be safely navigated. it's

water is much warmer then the rapid fork and it's water more turbid;

from which I conjecture that it has it's sources at a greater distance

in the mountains and passes through an opener country than the other.

under this impression I wrote a note to Capt Clark, recommending his

taking the middle fork povided he should arrive at this place before my

return, which I expect will be the day after tomorrow. this note I left

on a pole at the forks of the river, and having refreshed ourselves and

eat heartily of some venison which we killed this morning we continued

our rout up the rapid fork on the Stard side, resolving to pursue this

stream untill noon tomorrow and then pass over to the middle fork and

come down it to their junction or untill I meet Capt Clark. I have seen

no recent Indian sign in the course of my rout as yet. Charbono

complains much of his leg, and is the cause of considerable detention

to us. we encamped on the river bank near the place at which it leaves

the valley and enters the mountain having traveled about 23 miles. we

saw some Antelopes deer Grains, gees, and ducks of the two species

common to this country. the summer duck has ceased to appear, nor do I

beleive it is an inhabitant of this part of the country. the timber &c

is as heretofore tho there is more in this valley on the rapid fork

than we have seen in the same extent on the river since we entered this

valley. the Indians appear on some parts of the river to have distroyed

a great proportion of the little timber which there is by seting fire

to the bottoms. This morning Capt. Clark set out at sunrise, and sent

two hunters ahead to kill some meat. at 8 A.M. he arrived at my camp of

the 2ed inst. where he breakfasted; here he found a note which I had

left for him at that place informing him of the occurences of my rout

&c. the river continued to be crouded with Islands, rapid and shoaly.

these shoals or riffles succeeded each other every 3 or four hundred

yards; at those places they are obliged to drag the canoes over the

stone there not being water enough to float them, and betwen the riffles

the current is so strong that they are compelled to have cecourse to

the cord; and being unable to walk on the shore for the brush wade in

the river along the shore and hawl them by the cord; this has increased

the pain and labour extreemly; their feet soon get tender and soar by

wading and walking over the stones. these are also so slipry that they

frequently get severe falls. being constantly wet soon makes them feble

also. their hunters killed 2 deer today and some gees and ducks wer

killed by those who navigated the canoes. they saw deer antelopes

Grains beaver Otter &c. Capt. Clark's ancle became so painfull to him

that he was unable to walk.--This evening they encamped on the Stard.

side in a bottom of cottonwood timber all much fatiegued.

[Clark, August 4, 1805]

August 4th Sunday 1805

a fine morning cool proceeded on verry early and Brackfast at the Camp

Capt Lewis left yesterday morning, at this Camp he left a note

informing that he discovered no fresh Sign of Indians &c. The river

continued to be crouded with Islands Sholey rapid & clear, I could not

walk on Shore to day as my ankle was Sore from a turner on that part.

the method we are compelled to take to get on is fatigueing & laborious

in the extreen, haul the Canoes over the rapids, which Suckceed each

other every two or three hundred yards and between the water rapid

oblige to towe & walke on Stones the whole day except when we have

poleing men wet all day Sore feet &c. &c Murcury at Sun rise 49 a. 0,

[Lewis, August 5, 1805]

Monday August 5th 1805

As Charbono complained of being unable to march far today I ordered him

and Sergt. Gass to pass the rappid river near our camp and proceed at

their leasure through the level bottom to a point of high timber about

seven miles distant on the middle fork which was in view; I gave them

my pack that of Drewyer and the meat which we had, directing them to

remain at that place untill we joined them. I took Drewyer with me and

continued my rout up the stard. side of the river about 4 miles and

then waded it; found it so rapid and shallow that it was impossible to

navigate it. continued up it on the Lard. side about 11/2 miles further

when the mountains put in close on both sides and arrose to great

hight, partially covered with snow. from hence the course of the river

was to the East of North. I took the advantage of a high projecting

spur of the mountain which with some difficulty we ascended to it's

summit in about half an hour. from this eminance I had a pleasing view

of the valley through which I had passed many miles below and the

continuation of the middle fork through the valley equally wide above

me to the distance of about 20 miles when that also appeared to enter

the mountains and disappeared to my view; however the mountains which

termineate the valley in this direction appeared much lower than those

up either of the other forks. on the rapid fork they appeared still to

rise the one range towering above another as far as I could perceive

them. the middle fork as I suspected dose bear considerably to the West

of South and the gap formed by it in the mountains after the valley

terminates is in the same direction. under these circumstances I did

not hesitate in beleiving the middle fork the most proper for us to

ascend. about South from me, the middle fork approached within about 5

miles. I resolved to pass across the plains to it and return to Gass

and Charbono, accordingly we set out and decended the mountain among

some steep and difficult precipices of rocks. here Drewyer missed his

step and had a very dangerous fall, he sprained one of his fingers and

hirt his leg very much. in fifteen or 20 minutes he was able to proceed

and we continued our rout to the river where we had desighned to

interscept it. I quenched my thirst and rested a few minutes examined

the river and found it still very navi-gable. an old indian road very

large and plain leads up this fork, but I could see no tracks except

those of horses which appeared to have passed early in the spring. as

the river mad a great bend to the South East we again ascended the high

plain and steered our course as streight as we could to the point where

I had directed Gass and Sharbono to remain. we passed the plain

regained the bottom and struck the river about 3 miles above them; by

this time it was perfectly dark & we hooped but could hear no tidings

of them. we had struck the river at the point of timber to which I had

directed them, but having mistaken a point of woods lower down, had

halted short of the place. we continued our rout after dark down the

bottom through thick brush of the pulppy leafed thorn and prickly pears

for about 2 hours when we arrived at their camp. they had a small

quantity of meat left which Drewyer and myself eat it being the first

we had taisted today. we had traveled about 25 miles. I soon laid down

and slept very soundly untill morning. I saw no deer today nor any game

except a few Antelopes which were very shy. the soil of the plains is a

light yellow clay very meager and intermixed with a large proportion of

gravel, producing nothing except the twisted or bearded grass, sedge

and prickly pears. the dryer parts of the bottoms are also much more

indifferent in point of soil to those below and are covered with the

southernwood pulpy leafed thorn and prickley pears with but little

grass. the moist parts are fertile and covered with fine grass and sand

rushes.

This morning Capt. Clark set out at sunrise and dispatched Joseph &

Reubin Fields to hunt. they killed two deer on one of which the party

breakfasted. the river today they found streighter and more rapid even

than yesterday, and the labour and difficulty of the navigation was

proportionably increased, they therefore proceeded but slowly and with

great pain as the men had become very languid from working in the water

and many of their feet swolen and so painfull that they could scarcely

walk. at 4 P.M. they arrived at the confluence of the two rivers where

I had left the note. this note had unfortunately been placed on a green

pole which the beaver had cut and carried off together with the note;

the possibility of such an occurrence never one occurred to me when I

placed it on the green pole. this accedent deprived Capt. Clark of any

information with ripect to the country and supposing that the rapid

fork was most in the direction which it was proper we should pursue, or

West, he took that stream and asscended it with much difficulty about a

mile and encamped on an island that had been lately overflown and was

yet damp; they were therefore compelled to make beds of brush to keep

themselves out of the mud. in ascending this stream for about a quarter

of a mile it scattered in such a maner that they were obliged to cut a

passage through the willow brush which leant over the little channels

and united their tops. Capt. Clarks ankle is extreemly painfull to him

this evening; the tumor has not yet mature, he has a slight fever.--The

men were so much fortiegued today that they wished much that navigation

was at an end that they might go by land.-

[Clark, August 5, 1805]

August 5th Monday 1805

a Cold Clear morning the wind from the S. E. the river Streight & much

more rapid than yesterday, I Sent out Jo. & R. Fields to kill Some meat

they killed 2 Deer & we brackfast on one of them and proceeded on with

great dificuelety from the rapidity of the Current, and numerable

rapids we had to encounter, at 4 oClock P M Murcury 49 ab. 0, passed

the mouth of principal fork which falls in on the Lard. Side, this fork

is about the Size of the Stard. one less water reather not so rapid,

its Course as far as can be Seen is S. E & appear to pass through

between two mountains, the N W. fork being the one most in our course

i. e. S 25 W. as far as I can See, deturmind me to take this fork as

the principal and the one most proper the S E fork is of a Greenish

Colour & contains but little timber. The S W fok contains more timber

than is below for Some distance, we assended this fork about one mile

and Encamped on an Island which had been laterly overflown & was wet we

raised our bead on bushes, we passed a part of the river above the

forks which was divided and Scattered thro the willows in Such a manner

as to render it dificuelt to pass through for a 1/4 of a mile, we wer

oblige to Cut our way thro the willows--Men much fatigued from their

excessive labours in hauling the Canoes over the rapids &c. verry weak

being in the water all day. my foot verry painfull

Assended the N W Fork 9 miles on a Course S. 30° W. to a Bluff on the

Stard. Side passed Several Bayous & Islands

[Lewis, August 6, 1805]

Tuesday August 6th 1805.

We set out this morning very early on our return to the forks. having

nothing to eat I set Drewyer to the woodlands to my left in order to

kill a deer, sent Sergt. Gass to the right with orders to keep

sufficiently near to discover Capt. C. and the party should they be on

their way up that stream, and with Sharbono I directed my course to the

main forks through the bottom directing the others to meet us there.

about five miles above the forks I head the hooping of the party to my

left and changed my rout towards them; on my arrival found that they

had taken the rapid fork and learnt from Capt. Clark that he had not

found the note which I had left for him at that place and the reasons

which had induced him to ascend this stream. it was easeist & more in

our direction, and apd. to contain as much water he had hoever

previously to my comeing up with him, met Drewyer who informed him of

the state of the two rivers and was on his return. one of their canoes

had just overset and all the baggage wet, the medecine box among other

articles and several articles lost a shot pouch and horn with all the

implements for one rifle lost and never recovered. I walked down to the

point where I waited their return. on their arrival found that two

other canoes had filled with water and wet their cargoes completely.

Whitehouse had been thrown out of one of the canoes as she swing in a

rapid current and the canoe had rubed him and pressed him to the bottom

as she passed over him and had the water been 2 inches shallower must

inevitably have crushed him to death. our parched meal, corn, Indian

preasents, and a great part of our most valuable stores were wet and

much damaged on this ocasion. to examine, dry and arrange our stores

was the first object; we therefore passed over to the lard. side

opposite to the entrance of the rapid fork where there was a large

gravly bar that answered our purposes; wood was also convenient and

plenty. here we fixed our camp, and unloaded all our canoes and opened

and exposed to dry such articles as had been wet. a part of the load of

each canoe consisted of the leaden canestirs of powder which were not

in least injured, tho some of them had remained upwards of an hour

under water. about 20 lbs. of powder which we had in a tight Keg or at

least one which we thought sufficiently so got wet and intirely

spoiled. this would have been the case with the other had it not have

been for the expedient which I had fallen on of securing the powder by

means of the lead having the latter formed into canesters which were

filled with the necessary proportion of poder to discharge the lead

when used, and those canesters well secured with corks and wax. in this

country the air is so pure and dry that any vessel however well

seasoned the timber may be will give way or shrink unless it is kept

full of some liquid. we found that three deer skins which we had left

at a considerable hight on a tree were taken off which we supposed had

been done by a panther. we sent out some men to hunt this evening, they

killed 3 deer and four Elk which gave us a plentifull supply of meat

once more. Shannon had been dispatched up the rapid fork this morning

to hunt, by Capt Clark before he met with Drewyer or learnt his mistake

in the rivers. when he returned he sent Drewyer in surch of him, but he

rejoined us this evening and reported that he had been several miles up

the river and could find nothing of him. we had the trumpet sounded and

fired several guns but he did not join us this evening. I am fearful he

is lost again. this is the same man who was seperated from us 15 days

as we came up the Missouri and subsisted 9 days of that time on grapes

only. Whitehouse is in much pain this evening with the injury one of

his legs sustained from the canoe today at the time it upset and swing

over him. Capt Clarks ankle is also very painfull to him.--we should

have given the party a days rest some where near this place had not

this accedent happened, as I had determined to take some observations

to fix the Latitude and longitude of these forks. our merchandize

medecine &c are not sufficiently dry this evening we covered them

securely for the evening. Capt Clark had ascended the river about 9

miles from this place on a course of S 30° W. before he met with Drewyer.

we beleive that the N. W. or rapid fork is the dane of the melting

snows of the mountains, and that it is not as long as the middle fork

and dose not at all seasons of the year supply any thing like as much

water as the other and that about this season it rises to it's greatest

hight. this last appears from the apparent bed of the river which is

now overflown and the water in many plases spreads through old channels

which have their bottoms covered with grass that has grown this season

and is such as appears on the parts of the bottom not innundated. we

therefore determined that the middle fork was that which ought of right

to bear the name we had given to the lower portion or River Jefferson

and called the bold rapid an clear stream Wisdom, and the more mild and

placid one which flows in from the S. E. Philanthrophy, in

commemoration of two of those cardinal virtues, which have so eminently

marked that deservedly selibrated character through life.

[Clark, August 6, 1805]

August 6th Tuesday 1805

a Clear morning Cool wind from the S W we proceeded on with much

dificuelty and fatigue over rapids & Stones; river about 40 or 50 yards

wide much divided by Islands and narrow Bayoos to a low bluff on the

Stard Side & Brackfast, dureing the time of Brackfast Drewyer Came to

me from Capt. Lewis and informed me that they had explored both forks

for 30 or 40 miles & that the one we were assending was impractiabl

much further up & turned imediately to the north, The middle fork he

reported was jintle and after a Short distanc turned to the S. W. and

that all the Indian roades leades up the middle fork. this report

deturmind me to take the middle fork, accordingly Droped down to the

forks where I met with Capt Lewis & party, Capt Lewis had left a Letter

on a pole in the forks informing me what he had discovered & the course

of the rivers &c. this lettr was Cut down by the beaver as it was on a

green pole & Carried off. Three Skins which was left on a tree was

taken off by the Panthers or wolvers. In decending to the Point one

Canoe Struck & turned on a rapid & Sunk, and wet every thing which was

in her, this misfortune obliged us to halt at the forks and dry those

articles, one other Canoe nearly turning over, filled half full of

water & wet our medison & Some Goods Corn &c. Several hunters out to

day & killed a young Elk, Antilope, & 3 Deer, one man Shannon did not

return to night--This evening Cool my anckle much wors than it has

been--this evening a Violent wind from the N. W accompanied with rain

which lasted half an hour wind N. W

[Lewis, August 7, 1805]

Wednesday August 7th 1805.

The morning being fair we spread our stores to dry at an early hour.

Dispatched Reubin Fields in surch of Shannon. our stores were now so

much exhausted that we found we could proceed with one canoe less. we

therefore drew out one of them into a thicket of brush and secured her

in such manner that the water could not take her off should the river

rise to the hight where she is. The creek which falls in above us we

called turf creek from the cercustance of it's bottoms being composed

of excellent turf. my air gun was out of order and her sights had been

removed by some accedent I put her in order and regulated her. she shot

again as well as she ever did. The clouds last night prevented my

taking any lunar observations this day I took Equal Altitudes of the 0

with Sextant.

At one oclock all our baggage was dry we therefore packed it up

reloaded the canoes and the party proceeded with Capt. Clark up

Jefferson's river. I remained with Sergt. Gass to complete the

observation of equal altitudes and joined them in the evening at their

camp on the Lard. side just above the entrance of turf creek. we had a

shower of rain wich continued about 40 minutes attended with thunder

and lightning. this shower wet me perfectly before I reached the camp.

the clouds continued during the night in such manner that I was unable

to obtain any lunar observations. This evening Drewyer brought in a

deer which he had killed. we have not heard any thing from Shannon yet,

we expect that he has pursued Wisdom river upwards for som distance

probably killed some heavy animal and is waiting our arrival. the large

biteing fly or hare fly as they sometimes called are very troublesome

to us. I observe two kinds of them a large black species and a small

brown species with a green head. the musquetoes are not as troublesome

as they were below, but are still in considerable quantities. the eye

knats have disappeared. the green or blowing flies are still in swarms.

r the courses from the entrance of Wisdom river to the forks of

Jefferson's river are taken directly to the objects mentioned and the

distance set down is that by land on a direct line between the points;

the estimated distances by water is also added in the body of the

remarks on each course.

[Clark, August 7, 1805]

August 7th Wednesday 1805

a fine morning put out our Stores &c. to dry & took equal altitudes

with the Sextant,--as our Store were a little exorsted and one Canoe

became unnecessary deturmind to leave one. we Hauled her up in the

bushes on the lower Side of the main fork & fastened her So that the

water could not flote her off. The Countrey in this quarter is as

follows i, e a Vallie of 5 or 6 miles wide Inclosed between two high

Mountains, the bottom rich Some Small timber on the Islands & bushes on

the edges of the river Some Bogs & verry good turf in different places

in the vallie, Some scattering Pine & ceder on the mountains in places,

other Parts nacked except grass and Stone The Lattitude of the Mouth of

Wisdom River is 45° 2' 21.6" North, we proceeded up the Main Middle or S.

E. fork, passed a Camped on the Lard. Side above the mouth of a bold

running Stream 12 yards wide, which we call turf Creek from the number

of bogs & quanty of turf in its waters. this Creek runs thro a open

Plain for Several miles, takeing its rise in a high mountain to the N

E. The river Jefferson above Wisdom is gentle Crooked and about 40

yards wide, Containing but little timber, Some few Cotton willow Willow

& Birch, and the Srubs common to the countrey and before mentioned at 5

oClock a thunder Storm from the N. W. accompanied with rain which

lasted about 40 minits.--despatched R Fields to hunt Shannon, who was

out huntg. on Wisdom river at the time I returned down that Stream, and

has made on up the river expecting us to follow him up that river one

Deer killed this evening. all those Streams Contain emence number of

Beaver orter Muskrats &c.

[Lewis, August 8, 1805]

Thursday August 8th 1805.

We had a heavy dew this morning. as one canoe had been left we had now

more hads to spear for the chase; game being scarce it requires more

hunters to supply us. we therefore dispatched four this morning. we set

out at sunrise and continued our rout up the river which we find much

more gentle and deep than below the entrance of Wisdom river it is from

35 to 45 yards wide very crooked many short bends constituteing large

and general bends; insomuch that altho we travel briskly and a

considerable distance yet it takes us only a few miles on our general

course or rout. there is but very little timber on this fork

principally the under brush frequently mentioned. I observe a

considerable quantity of the buffaloe clover in the bottoms. the

sunflower, flax, green swoard, thistle and several species of the rye

grass some of which rise to the hight of 3 or 4 feet. there is a grass

also with a soft smooth leaf that bears it's seeds very much like the

timothy but it dose not grow very luxouriant or appear as if it would

answer so well as the common timothy for meadows. I preserved some of

it's seeds which are now ripe, thinking perhaps it might answer better

if cultivated, at all events is at least worth the experi-ment. it

rises about 3 feet high. on a direct line about 2 miles above our

encampment of this morning we passed the entrance of Philanthrophy

River which discharges itself by 2 channels a small distance assunder.

this river from it's size and S. Eastwardly course no doubt heads with

Madisons river in the snowey mountains visible in that direction. at

Noon Reubin Fields arrived and reported that he had been up Wisdom

river some miles above where it entered the mountain and could find

nothing of Shannon, he had killed a deer and an Antelope. great

quantity of beaver Otter and musk-rats in these rivers. two of the

hunters we sent out this morning returned at noon had killed each a

deer and an Antelope. we use the seting poles today almost altogether.

we encamped on the Lard sides where there was but little timber were

obliged to use willow brush for fuel; the rosebushes and bryers were

very thick. the hunters brought in another deer this evening. to tumor

on Capt. Clarks ankle has discharged a considerable quantity of matter

but is still much swolen and inflamed and gives him considerable pain.

saw a number of Gees ducks and some Crains today. the former begin to

fly.

the evening again proved cloudy much to my mortification and prevented

my making any lunar observations. the Indian woman recognized the point

of a high plain to our right which she informed us was not very distant

from the summer retreat of her nation on a river beyond the mountains

which runs to the west. this hill she says her nation calls the

beaver's head from a conceived remblance of it's figure to the head of

that animal. she assures us that we shall either find her people on

this river or on the river immediately west of it's source; which from

it's present size cannot be very distant. as it is now all important

with us to meet with those people as soon as possible, I determined to

proceed tomorrow with a small party to the source of the principal

stream of this river and pass the mountains to the Columbia; and down

that river untill I found the Indians; in short it is my resolusion to

find them or some others, who have horses if it should cause me a trip

of one month. for without horses we shall be obliged to leave a great

part of our stores, of which, it appears to me that we have a stock

already sufficiently small for the length of the voyage before us.

[Clark, August 8, 1805]

August 8th Thursday 1805

We proceeded on early wind from the S W. The Thermometer at 52 a 0 at

Sunrise at 5 miles by water & 41/2 on a derect line from the forks we

passed a River on the Lard Side 30 yards wide and navagable for Some

distance takeing its rise in the Mountains Easterly & with the waters

of Madisons River, passes thro an extensive vallie open & furtill &c.

this river we call Philanthophy--above this river (which has but little

timber) Jeffersons R is crooked with Short bends a fiew Islands and

maney gravelly Sholes, no large timber, Small willow Birch & Srubs &c.

Encamped on the Lard Side, R Fields joined us this eveng. & informes

that he could not find Shannon my foot yet verry Swore

[Lewis, August 9, 1805]

Friday August 9th 1805.

The morning was fair and fine; we set out at an early hour and

proceeded on very well. some parts of the river more rapid than

yesterday. I walked on shore across the land to a point which I

presumed they would reach by 8 A.M. our usual time of halting. by this

means I acquired leasure to accomplish some wrightings which I

conceived from the nature of my instructions necessary lest any

accedent should befall me on the long and reather hazardous rout I was

now about to take. the party did not arrive and I returned about a mile

and met them, here they halted and we breakefasted; I had killed two

fine gees on my return. while we halted here Shannon arrived, and

informed us that having missed the party the day on which he set out he

had returned the next morning to the place from whence he had set out

or furst left them and not finding that he had supposed that they wer

above him; that he then set out and marched one day up wisdom river, by

which time he was convinced that they were not above him as the river

could not be navigated; he then returned to the forks and had pursued

us up this river. he brought the skins of three deer which he had

killed which he said were in good order. he had lived very plentifully

this trip but looked a good deel worried with his march. he informed us

that Wisdom river still kept it's course obliquely down the Jefferson's

river as far as he was up it. immediately after breakfast I slung my

pack and set out accompanyed by Drewyer Shields and McNeal who had been

previously directed to hold themselves in readiness for this service. I

directed my course across the bottom to the Stard. plain led left the

beaver's head about 2 miles to my left and interscepted the river about

8 miles from the point at which I had left it; I then waded it and

continued my rout to the point where I could observe that it entered

the mountain, but not being able to reach that place, changed my

direction to the river which I struck some miles below the mountain and

encamped for the evening having traveled 16 M. we passed a handsom

little stream formed by some large spring which rise in this wide

bottom on the Lard. side of the river. we killed two Antelopes on our

way and brought with us as much meat as was necessary for our suppers

and breakfast the next morning. we found this bottom fertile and

covered with taller grass than usual. the river very crooked much

divided by islands, shallow rocky in many plases and very rapid;

insomuch that I have my doubts whether the canoes could get on or not,

or if they do it must be with great labour.--Capt. Clark proceeded

after I left him as usual, found the current of the river increasing in

rapidity towards evening. his hunters killed 2 antelopes only. in the

evening it clouded up and we experienced a slight rain attended with

some thunder and lightning. the musquetoes very troublesome this

evening. there are some soft bogs in these vallies covered with turf.

the earth of which this mud is composed is white or bluish white and

appears to be argillacious.

[Clark, August 9, 1805]

August 9th Friday 1805

a fine morning wind from the N. E we proceeded on verry well rapid

places more noumerous than below, Shannon the man whome we lost on

Wisdom River Joined us, haveing returned to the forks & prosued us up

after prosueing Wisdom River one day

Capt Lewis and 3 men Set out after brackft. to examine the river above,

find a portage if possible, also the Snake Indians. I Should have taken

this trip had I have been able to march, from the rageing fury of a

turner on my anckle musle, in the evening Clouded up and a fiew drops

of rain Encamped on the Lard Side near a low bluff, the river to day as

yesterday. the three hunters Could kill only two antelopes to day, game

of every kind Scerce

[Lewis, August 10, 1805]

Saturday August 10th 1805.

We set out very early this morning and continued our rout through the

wide bottom on the Lard. side of the river after passing a large creek

at about 5 miles we fel in with a plain Indian road which led towards

the point that the river entered the mountain we therefore pursued the

road I sent Drewyer to the wright to kill a deer which we saw feeding

and halted on the river under an immencely high perpendicular clift of

rocks where it entered the mountain here we kindled a fire and waited

for Drewyer. he arrived in about an hour and a half or at noon with

three deer skins and the flesh of one of the best of them, we cooked

and eat a haisty meal and departed, returning a shot distance to the

Indian road which led us the best way over the mountains, which are not

very high but ar ruggid and approach the river closely on both sides

just below these mountains I saw several bald Eagles and two large

white headed fishinghawks boath these birds were the same common to our

country.

from the number of rattle snakes about the Clifts at which we halted we

called them the rattle snake clifts. this serpent is the same before

discribed with oval spots of yellowish brown. the river below the

mountains is rapid rocky, very crooked, much divided by islands and

withal shallow. after it enters the mountains it's bends are not so

circuetous and it's general course more direct, but it is equally

shallow les divided more rocky and rapid. we continued our rout along

the Indian road which led us sometimes over the hills and again in the

narrow bottoms of the river till at the distance of fifteen Ms. from

the rattle snake Clifts we arrived in a hadsome open and leavel vally

where the river divided itself nearly into two equal branches; here I

halted and examined those streams and readily discovered from their

size that it would be vain to attempt the navigation of either any

further. here also the road forked one leading up the vally of each of

these streams. I therefore sent Drewer on one and Shields on the other

to examine these roads for a short distance and to return and compare

their information with respect to the size and apparent plainness of

the roads as I was now determined to pursue that which appeared to have

been the most traveled this spring. in the mean time I wrote a note to

Capt. Clark informing him of the occurrences which had taken place,

recommending it to him to halt at this place untill my return and

informing him of the rout I had taken which from the information of the

men on their return seemed to be in favour of the S W or Left hand fork

which is reather the smallest. accordingly I put up my note on a dry

willow pole at the forks, and set out up the S. E. fork, after

proceeding about 11/2 miles I discovered that the road became so blind

that it could not be that which we had followed to the forks of

Jefferson's river, neither could I find the tracks of the horses which

had passed early in the spring along the other; I therefore determined

to return and examine the other myself, which I did, and found that the

same horses had passed up the West fork which was reather largest, and

more in the direction that I wished to pursue; I therefore did not

hesitate about changing my rout but determined to take the western

road. I now wrote a second note to Capt C. informing him of this change

and sent Drewyer to put it with the other at the forks and waited

untill he returned. there is scarcely any timber on the river above the

R. Snake Clifts, nor is there anything larger than willow brush in

sight of these forks. immediately in the level plain between the forks

and about 1/2 a mile distance from them stands a high rocky mountain,

the base of which is surrounded by the level plain; it has a singular

appearance. the mountains do not appear very high in any direction tho

the tops of some of them are partially covered with snow. this

convinces me that we have ascended to a great hight since we have

entered the rocky Mountains, yet the ascent has been so gradual along

the vallies that it was scarcely perceptable by land. I do not beleive

that the world can furnish an example of a river runing to the extent

which the Missouri and Jefferson's rivers do through such a mountainous

country and at the same time so navigable as they are. if the Columbia

furnishes us such another example, a communication across the continent

by water will be practicable and safe. but this I can scarcely hope

from a knowledge of its having in it comparitively short course to the

ocean the same number of feet to decend which the Missouri and

Mississippi have from this point to the Gulph of Mexico.

The valley of the west fork through which we passed for four miles boar

a little to N of West and was about 1 mile wide hemned in on either

side by rough mountain and steep Clifts of rock at 41/2 miles this

stream enters a beatifull and extensive plain about ten miles long and

from 5 to six in width. this plain is surrounded on all sides by a

country of roling or high wavy plains through which several little

rivulets extend their wide vallies quite to the Mountains which

surround the whole in an apparent Circular manner; forming one of the

handsomest coves I ever saw, of about 16 or 18 miles in diameter. just

after entering this cove the river bends to the N. W. and runs close

under the Stard. hills. here we killed a deer and encamped on the

Stard.,side and made our fire of dry willow brush, the only fuel which

the country produces. there are not more than three or four cottonwood

trees in this extensive cove and they are but small. the uplands are

covered with prickly pears and twisted or bearded grass and are but

poor; some parts of the bottom lands are covered with grass and

tolerably fertile; but much the greater proportion is covered with

prickly pears sedge twisted grass the pulpy leafed thorn southernwood

wild sage &c and like the uplands is very inferior in point of soil. we

traveled by estimate 30 Ms. today, that is 10 to the Rattle snake

Clift, 15 to the forks of Jefferson's river and 5 to our camp in the

cove. at the apparent extremity of the bottom above us two

perpendicular clifts of considerable hight stand on either side of the

river and appers at this distance like a gate, it is about 10 M. due

West.

Capt Clark set out at sunrise this morning and pursued his rout; found

the river not rapid but shallow also very crooked. they were obliged to

drag the canoes over many riffles in the course of the day. they passed

the point which the natives call the beaver's head. it is a steep rocky

clift of 150 feet high near the Stard. side of the river, opposite to

it at the distance of 300 yards is a low clift of about 50 feet which

is the extremity of a spur of the mountains about 4 miles distant on

Lard. at 4 P.M. they experienced a heavy shower of rain attended with

hail thunder and Lightning which continued about an hour. the men

defended themselves from the hail by means of the willow bushes but all

the party got perfectly wet. after the shower was over they pursued

their march and encamped on the stard side only one deer killed by

their hunters today. tho they took up another by the way which had been

killed three days before by Jos. Fields and hung up near the river.

[Clark, August 10, 1805]

August 10th Satturday 1805

Some rain this morning at Sun rise and Cloudy we proceeded on passed a

remarkable Clift point on the Stard. Side about 150 feet high, this

Clift the Indians Call the Beavers head, opposit at 300 yards is a low

clift of 50 feet which is a Spur from the Mountain on the Lard. about 4

miles, the river verry Crooked, at 4 oClock a hard rain from the S W

accompanied with hail Continued half an hour, all wet, the men

Sheltered themselves from the hail with bushes We Encamped on the Stard

Side near a Bluff, only one Deer killed to day, the one killed Jo

Fields 3 Days past & hung up we made use of river narrow, & Sholey but

not rapid.

[Lewis, August 11, 1805]

Sunday August 11th 1805.

We set out very early this morning; but the track which we had pursued

last evening soon disappeared. I therefore resolved to proceed to the

narrow pass on the creek about 10 miles West in hopes that I should

again find the Indian road at the place, accordingly I passed the river

which was about 12 yards wide and bared in several places entirely

across by beaver dams and proceeded through the level plain directly to

the pass. I now sent Drewyer to keep near the creek to my right and

Shields to my left, with orders to surch for the road which if they

found they were to notify me by placing a hat in the muzzle of their

gun. I kept McNeal with me; after having marched in this order for

about five miles I discovered an Indian on horse back about two miles

distant coming down the plain toward us. with my glass I discovered

from his dress that he was of a different nation from any that we had

yet seen, and was satisfyed of his being a Sosone; his arms were a bow

and quiver of arrows, and was mounted on an eligant horse without a

saddle, and a small string which was attatched to the underjaw of the

horse which answered as a bridle. I was overjoyed at the sight of this

stranger and had no doubt of obtaining a friendly introduction to his

nation provided I could get near enough to him to convince him of our

being whitemen. I therefore proceeded towards him at my usual pace.

when I had arrived within about a mile he mad a halt which I did also

and unloosing my blanket from my pack, I mad him the signal of

friendship known to the Indians of the Rocky mountains and those of the

Missouri, which is by holding the mantle or robe in your hands at two

corners and then throwing up in the air higher than the head bringing

it to the earth as if in the act of spreading it, thus repeating three

times. this signal of the robe has arrisen from a custom among all

those nations of spreading a robe or skin for ther gests to set on when

they are visited. this signal had not the desired effect, he still kept

his position and seemed to view Drewyer an Shields who were now

comiming in sight on either hand with an air of suspicion, I wold

willingly have made them halt but they were too far distant to hear me

and I feared to make any signal to them least it should increase the

suspicion in the mind of the Indian of our having some unfriendly

design upon him. I therefore haistened to take out of my sack some

beads a looking glas and a few trinkets which I had brought with me for

this purpose and leaving my gun and pouch with McNeal advanced unarmed

towards him. he remained in the same stedfast poisture untill I arrived

in about 200 paces of him when he turn his hose about and began to move

off slowly from me; I now called to him in as loud a voice as I could

command repeating the word tab-ba-bone, which in their language

signifyes white man. but loking over his sholder he still kept his eye

on Drewyer and Sheilds who wer still advancing neither of them haveing

segacity enough to recollect the impropriety of advancing when they saw

me thus in parley with the Indian. I now made a signal to these men to

halt, Drewyer obeyed but Shields who afterwards told me that he did not

obseve the signal still kept on the Indian halted again and turned his

horse about as if to wait for me, and I beleive he would have remained

untill I came up whith him had it not been for Shields who still

pressed forward. whe I arrived within about 150 paces I again

repepeated the word tab-ba-bone and held up the trinkits in my hands

and striped up my shirt sieve to give him an opportunity of seeing the

colour of my skin and advanced leasure towards him but he did not

remain untill I got nearer than about 100 paces when he suddonly turned

his hose about, gave him the whip leaped the creek and disapeared in

the willow brush in an instant and with him vanished all my hopes of

obtaining horses for the preasent. I now felt quite as much

mortification and disappointment as I had pleasure and expectation at

the first sight of this indian. I fet soarly chargrined at the conduct

of the men particularly Sheilds to whom I principally attributed this

failure in obtaining an introduction to the natives. I now called the

men to me and could not forbare abraiding them a little for their want

of attention and imprudence on this occasion. they had neglected to

bring my spye-glass which in haist I had droped in the plain with the

blanket where I made the signal before mentioned. I sent Drewyer and

Shields back to surche it, they soon found it and rejoined me. we now

set out on the track of the horse hoping by that means to be lead to an

indian camp, the trail of inhabitants of which should they abscond we

should probably be enabled to pursue to the body of the nation to which

they would most probably fly for safety. this rout led us across a

large Island framed by nearly an equal division of the creek in this

bottom; after passing to the open ground on the N. side of the creek we

observed that the track made out toward the high hills about 3 m.

distant in that direction. I thought it probable that their camp might

probably be among those hills & that they would reconnoiter us from the

tops of them, and that if we advanced haistily towards them that they

would become allarmed and probably run off; I therefore halted in an

elivated situation near the creek had a fire kindled of willow brush

cooked and took breakfast. during this leasure I prepared a small

assortment of trinkits consisting of some mockkerson awls a few strans

of several kinds of beads some paint a looking glass &c which I

attatched to the end of a pole and planted it near our fire in order

that should the Indians return in surch of us they might from this

token discover that we were friendly and white persons. before we had

finised our meal a heavy shower of rain came on with some hail wich

continued abot 20 minutes and wet us to the skin, after this shower we

pursued the track of the horse but as the rain had raised the grass

which he had trodden down it was with difficulty that we could follow

it. we pursued it however about 4 miles it turning up the valley to the

left under the foot of the hills. we pas several places where the

Indians appeared to have been diging roots today and saw the fresh

tracks of 8 or ten horses but they had been wandering about in such a

confused manner that we not only lost the track of the hose which we

had been pursuing but could make nothing of them. in the head of this

valley we passed a large bog covered with tall grass and moss in which

were a great number of springs of cold pure water, we now turned a

little to the left along the foot of the high hills and arrived at a

small branch on which we encamped for the night, having traveled in

different directions about 20 Miles and about 10 from the camp of last

evening on a direct line. after meeting with the Indian today I fixed a

small flag of the U'S. to a pole which I made McNeal carry. and planted

in the ground where we halted or encamped.

This morning Capt Clark dispatched several hunters a head; the morning

being rainy and wet did not set out untill after an early breakfast. he

passed a large Island which he called the 3000 mile Island from the

circumstance of it's being that distance from the entrance of the

Missouri by water. a considerable proportion of the bottom on Lard.

side is a bog covered with tall grass and many parts would afford fine

turf; the bottom is about 8 Ms. wide and the plains which succeed it on

either side extend about the same distance to the base of the

mountains. they passed a number of small Islands and bayous on both

sides which cut and intersect the bottoms in various directions. found

the river shallow and rapid, insomuch that the men wer compelled to be

in the water a considerable proportion of the day in drageing the

canoes over the shoals and riffles. they saw a number of geese ducks

beaver & otter, also some deer and antelopes. the men killed a beaver

with a seting pole and tommahawked several Otter. the hunters killed 3

deer and an Antelope. Capt. C. observed some bunches of privy near the

river. there are but few trees in this botom and those small narrow

leafed Cottonwood. the principal growth is willow with the narrow leaf

and Currant bushes. they encamped this evening on the upper point of a

large Island near the Stard. shore.-

[Clark, August 11, 1805]

August 11th Sunday 1805.

a Shower of rain this morning at Sun rise, Cloudy all the morning wind

from the S W passed a large Island which I call the 3000 mile Island as

it is Situated that distance from the mouth of the Missouri by water, a

number of Small Bayoes running in different directions thro the Bottom,

which is about 5 miles wide, then rises to an ellivated plain on each

Side which extends as far. passed Several Small Islands and a number of

Bayoes on each Side and Encamped on the upper point of a large Island,

our hunters killed three Deer, one antilope, and Tomahawked Several

Orter to day killed one Beaver with a Setting pole. I observed Some

bunches of Privey on the banks

[Lewis, August 12, 1805]

Monday August 12th 1805

This morning I sent Drewyer out as soon as it was light, to try and

discover what rout the Indians had taken. he followed the track of the

horse we had pursued yesterday to the mountain wher it had ascended,

and returned to me in about an hour and a half. I now determined to

pursue the base of the mountains which form this cove to the S. W. in

the expectation of finding some Indian road which lead over the

Mountains, accordingly I sent Drewyer to my right and Shields to my

left with orders to look out for a road or the fresh tracks of horses

either of which we should first meet with I had determined to pursue.

at the distance of about 4 miles we passed 4 small rivulets near each

other on which we saw som resent bowers or small conic lodges formed

with willow brush. near them the indians had geathered a number of

roots from the manner in which they had toarn up the ground; but I

could not discover the root which they seemed to be in surch of. I saw

several large hawks that were nearly black near this place we fell in

with a large and plain Indian road which came into the cove from the N.

E. and led along the foot of the mountains to the S. W. oliquely

approaching the main stream which we had left yesterday. this road we

now pursued to the S. W. at 5 miles it passed a stout stream which is a

principal fork of the man stream and falls into it just above the

narrow pass between the two clifts before mentioned and which we now

saw below us. here we halted and breakfasted on the last of our

venison, having yet a small peice of pork in reseve. after eating we

continued our rout through the low bottom of the main stream along the

foot of the mountains on our right the valley for 5 mes. further in a

S. W. direction was from 2 to 3 miles wide the main stream now after

discarding two stream on the left in this valley turns abruptly to the

West through a narrow bottom betwen the mountains. the road was still

plain, I therefore did not dispair of shortly finding a passage over

the mountains and of taisting the waters of the great Columbia this

evening. we saw an animal which we took to be of the fox kind as large

or reather larger than the small wolf of the plains. it's colours were

a curious mixture of black, redis-brown and yellow. Drewyer shot at him

about 130 yards and knocked him dow bet he recovered and got out of our

reach. it is certainly a different animal from any that we have yet

seen. we also saw several of the heath cock with a long pointed tail

and an uniform dark brown colour but could not kill one of them. they

are much larger than the common dunghill fowls, and in their habits and

manner of flying resemble the growse or prarie hen. at the distance of

4 miles further the road took us to the most distant fountain of the

waters of the mighty Missouri in surch of which we have spent so many

toilsome days and wristless nights. thus far I had accomplished one of

those great objects on which my mind has been unalterably fixed for

many years, judge then of the pleasure I felt in allying my thirst with

this pure and ice cold water which issues from the base of a low

mountain or hill of a gentle ascent for 1/2 a mile. the mountains are

high on either hand leave this gap at the head of this rivulet through

which the road passes. here I halted a few minutes and rested myself.

two miles below McNeal had exultingly stood with a foot on each side of

this little rivulet and thanked his god that he had lived to bestride

the mighty & heretofore deemed endless Missouri. after refreshing

ourselves we proceeded on to the top of the dividing ridge from which I

discovered immence ranges of high mountains still to the West of us

with their tops partially covered with snow. I now decended the

mountain about 3/4 of a mile which I found much steeper than on the

opposite side, to a handsome bold running Creek of cold Clear water.

here I first tasted the water of the great Columbia river. after a

short halt of a few minutes we continued our march along the Indian

road which lead us over steep hills and deep hollows to a spring on the

side of a mountain where we found a sufficient quantity of dry willow

brush for fuel, here we encamped for the night having traveled about 20

Miles. as we had killed nothing during the day we now boiled and eat

the remainder of our pork, having yet a little flour and parched meal.

at the creek on this side of the mountain I observed a species of deep

perple currant lower in its growth, the stem more branched and leaf

doubly as large as that of the Missouri. the leaf is covered on it's

under disk with a hairy pubersence. the fruit is of the ordinary size

and shape of the currant and is supported in the usual manner, but is

ascid & very inferior in point of flavor.

this morning Capt. Clark set out early. found the river shoally, rapid

shallow, and extreemly difficult. the men in the water almost all day.

they are geting weak soar and much fortiegued; they complained of the

fortiegue to which the navigation subjected them and wished to go by

land Capt. C. engouraged them and passifyed them. one of the canoes was

very near overseting in a rapid today. they proceeded but slowly. at

noon they had a thunderstorm which continued about half an hour. their

hunters killed 3 deer and a fawn. they encamped in a smoth plain near a

few cottonwood trees on the Lard. side.-

[Clark, August 12, 1805]

August 12th Monday 1805

We Set out early (Wind N E) proceeded on passed Several large Islands

and three Small ones, the river much more Sholey than below which

obliges us to haul the Canoes over those Sholes which Suckceed each

other at Short intervales emencely laborious men much fatigued and

weakened by being continualy in the water drawing the Canoes over the

Sholes encamped on the Lard Side men complain verry much of the emence

labour they are obliged to undergo & wish much to leave the river. I

passify them. the weather Cool, and nothing to eate but venison, the

hunters killed three Deer to day

[Lewis, August 13, 1805]

Tuesday August 13th 1805.

We set out very early on the Indian road which still led us through an

open broken country in a westerly direction. a deep valley appeared to

our left at the base of a high range of mountains which extended from

S. E. to N. W. having their sides better clad with pine timber than we

had been accustomed to see the mountains and their tops were also

partially covered with snow. at the distance of five miles the road

after leading us down a long decending valley for 2 Ms. brought us to a

large creek about 10 yds. wide; this we passed and on rising the hill

beyond it had a view of a handsome little valley to our left of about a

mile in width through which from the appearance of the timber I

conjectured that a river passed. I saw near the creek some bushes of

the white maple, the shumate of the small species with the winged rib,

and a species of honeysuckle much in it's growth and leaf like the

small honeysuckle of the Missouri only reather larger and bears a

globular berry as large as a garden pea and as white as wax. this berry

is formed of a thin smooth pellicle which envellopes a soft white

musilagenous substance in which there are several small brown seed

irregularly scattered or intermixed without any sell or perceptable

membranous covering.--we had proceeded about four miles through a wavy

plain parallel to the valley or river bottom when at the distance of

about a mile we saw two women, a man and some dogs on an eminence

immediately before us. they appeared to vew us with attention and two

of them after a few minutes set down as if to wait our arrival we

continued our usual pace towards them. when we had arrived within half

a mile of them I directed the party to halt and leaving my pack and

rifle I took the flag which I unfurled and avanced singly towards them

the women soon disappeared behind the hill, the man continued untill I

arrived within a hundred yards of him and then likewise absconded. tho

I frequently repeated the word tab-ba-bone sufficiently loud for him to

have heard it. I now haistened to the top of the hill where they had

stood but could see nothing of them. the dogs were less shye than their

masters they came about me pretty close I therefore thought of tying a

handkerchief about one of their necks with some beads and other

trinkets and then let them loose to surch their fugitive owners

thinking by this means to convince them of our pacific disposition

towards them but the dogs would not suffer me to take hold of them;

they also soon disappeared. I now made a signal fror the men to come

on, they joined me and we pursued the back tarck of these Indians which

lead us along the same road which we had been traveling. the road was

dusty and appeared to have been much traveled lately both by men and

horses. these praries are very poor the soil is of a light yellow clay,

intermixed with small smooth gravel, and produces little else but

prickly pears, and bearded grass about 3 inches high. the prickley pear

are of three species that with a broad leaf common to the missouri;

that of a globular form also common to the upper part of the Missouri

and more especially after it enters the Rocky Mountains, also a 3rd

peculiar to this country. it consists of small circular thick leaves

with a much greater number of thorns. these thorns are stronger and

appear to be barbed. the leaves grow from the margins of each other as

in the broad leafed pear of the missouri, but are so slightly attatched

that when the thorn touches your mockerson it adhears and brings with

it the leaf covered in every direction with many others. this is much

the most troublesome plant of the three. we had not continued our rout

more than a mile when we were so fortunate as to meet with three female

savages. the short and steep ravines which we passed concealed us from

each other untill we arrived within 30 paces. a young woman immediately

took to flight, an Elderly woman and a girl of about 12 years old

remained. I instantly laid by my gun and advanced towards them. they

appeared much allarmed but saw that we were to near for them to escape

by flight they therefore seated themselves on the ground, holding down

their heads as if reconciled to die which the expected no doubt would

be their fate; I took the elderly woman by the hand and raised her up

repeated the word tab-babone and strip up my shirt sieve to sew her my

skin; to prove to her the truth of the ascertion that I was a white man

for my face and hads which have been constantly exposed to the sun were

quite as dark as their own. they appeared instantly reconciled, and the

men coming up I gave these women some beads a few mockerson awls some

pewter looking-glasses and a little paint. I directed Drewyer to

request the old woman to recall the young woman who had run off to some

distance by this time fearing she might allarm the camp before we

approached and might so exasperate the natives that they would perhaps

attack us without enquiring who we were. the old woman did as she was

requested and the fugitive soon returned almost out of breath. I

bestoed an equvolent portion of trinket on her with the others. I now

painted their tawny cheeks with some vermillion which with this nation

is emblematic of peace. after they had become composed I informed them

by signs that I wished them to conduct us to their camp that we wer

anxious to become acquainted with the chiefs and warriors of their

nation. they readily obeyed and we set out, still pursuing the road

down the river. we had marched about 2 miles when we met a party of

about 60 warriors mounted on excellent horses who came in nearly full

speed, when they arrived I advanced towards them with the flag leaving

my gun with the party about 50 paces behid me. the chief and two others

who were a little in advance of the main body spoke to the women, and

they informed them who we were and exultingly shewed the presents which

had been given them these men then advanced and embraced me very

affectionately in their way which is by puting their left arm over you

wright sholder clasping your back, while they apply their left cheek to

yours and frequently vociforate the word ah-hi'-e, &h-hi'-e that is, I

am much pleased, I am much rejoiced. bothe parties now advanced and we

wer all carresed and besmeared with their grease and paint till I was

heartily tired of the national hug. I now had the pipe lit and gave

them smoke; they seated themselves in a circle around us and pulled of

their mockersons before they would receive or smoke the pipe. this is a

custom among them as I afterwards learned indicative of a sacred

obligation of sincerity in their profession of friendship given by the

act of receiving and smoking the pipe of a stranger. or which is as

much as to say that they wish they may always go bearfoot if they are

not sincere; a pretty heavy penalty if they are to march through the

plains of their country. after smoking a few pipes with them I

distributed some trifles among them, with which they seemed much

pleased particularly with the blue beads and vermillion. I now informed

the chief that the object of our visit was a friendly one, that after

we should reach his camp I would undertake to explain to him fully

those objects, who we wer, from whence we had come and wither we were

going; that in the mean time I did not care how soon we were in motion,

as the sun was very warm and no water at hand. they now put on their

mockersons, and the principal chief Ca-me-ah-wait made a short speach

to the warriors. I gave him the flag which I informed him was an emblem

of peace among whitemen and now that it had been received by him it was

to be respected as the bond of union between us. I desired him to march

on, which did and we followed him; the dragoons moved on in squadron in

our rear. after we had marched about a mile in this order he halted

them ang gave a second harang; after which six or eight of the young

men road forward to their encampment and no further regularity was

observed in the order of march. I afterwards understood that the

Indians we had first seen this morning had returned and allarmed the

camp; these men had come out armed cap a pe for action expecting to

meet with their enemies the Minnetares of Fort de Prarie whome they

Call Rah'-kees. they were armed with bows arrow and Shield except three

whom I observed with small pieces such as the N. W. Company furnish the

natives with which they had obtained from the Rocky Mountain Indians on

the yellow stone river with whom they are at peace. on our arrival at

their encampmen on the river in a handsome level and fertile bottom at

the distance of 4 Ms. from where we had first met them they introduced

us to a londge made of willow brush and an old leather lodge which had

been prepared for our reception by the young men which the chief had

dispatched for that purpose. Here we were seated on green boughs and

the skins of Antelopes. one of the warriors then pulled up the grass in

the center of the lodge forming a smal circle of about 2 feet in

diameter the chief next produced his pipe and native tobacco and began

a long cerimony of the pipe when we were requested to take of our

mockersons, the Chief having previously taken off his as well as all

the warriors present. this we complyed with; the Chief then lit his

pipe at the fire kindled in this little magic circle, and standing on

the oposite side of the circle uttered a speach of several minutes in

length at the conclusion of which he pointed the stem to the four

cardinal points of the heavens first begining at the East and ending

with the North. he now presented the pipe to me as if desirous that I

should smoke, but when I reached my hand to receive it, he drew it back

and repeated the same cremony three times, after which he pointed the

stern first to the heavens then to the center of the magic circle

smoked himself with three whifs and held the pipe untill I took as many

as I thought proper; he then held it to each of the white persons and

then gave it to be consumed by his warriors. this pipe was made of a

dense simitransparent green stone very highly polished about 21/2

inches long and of an oval figure, the bowl being in the same direction

with the stem. a small piece of birned clay is placed in the bottom of

the bowl to seperate the tobacco from the end of the stem and is of an

irregularly rounded figure not fitting the tube purfectly close in

order that the smoke may pass. this is the form of the pipe. their

tobacco is of the same kind of that used by the Minnetares Mandans and

Ricares of the Missouri. the Shoshonees do not cultivate this plant,

but obtain it from the Rocky mountain Indians and some of the bands of

their own nation who live further south. I now explained to them the

objects of our journey &c. all the women and children of the camp were

shortly collected about the lodge to indulge themselves with looking at

us, we being the first white persons they had ever seen. after the

cerimony of the pipe was over I distributed the remainder of the small

articles I had brought with me among the women and children. by this

time it was late in the evening and we had not taisted any food since

the evening before. the Chief informed us that they had nothing but

berries to eat and gave us some cakes of serviceberries and Choke

cherries which had been dryed in the sun; of these I made a hearty

meal, and then walked to the river, which I found about 40 yards wide

very rapid clear and about 3 feet deep. the banks low and abrupt as

those of the upper part of the Missouri, and the bed formed of loose

stones and gravel. Cameahwait informed me that this stream discharged

itself into another doubly as large at the distance of half a days

march which came from the S. W. but he added on further enquiry that

there was but little more timber below the junction of those rivers

than I saw here, and that the river was confined between inacessable

mountains, was very rapid and rocky insomuch that it was impossible for

us to pass either by land or water down this river to the great lake

where the white men lived as he had been informed. this was unwelcome

information but I still hoped that this account had been exagerated

with a view to detain us among them. as to timber I could discover not

any that would answer the purpose of constructing canoes or in short

more than was bearly necessary for fuel consisting of the narrow leafed

cottonwood and willow, also the red willow Choke Cherry service berry

and a few currant bushes such as were common on the Missouri. these

people had been attacked by the Minetares of Fort de prarie this spring

and about 20 of them killed and taken prisoners. on this occasion they

lost a great part of their horses and all their lodges except that

which they had erected for our accomodation; they were now living in

lodges of a conic figure made of willow brush. I still observe a great

number of horses feeding in every direction around their camp and

therefore entertain but little doubt but we shall be enable to furnish

ourselves with an adiquate number to transport our stores even if we

are compelled to travel by land over these mountains. on my return to

my lodge an indian called me in to his bower and gave me a small morsel

of the flesh of an antelope boiled, and a peice of a fresh salmon

roasted; both which I eat with a very good relish. this was the first

salmon I had seen and perfectly convinced me that we were on the waters

of the Pacific Ocean. the course of this river is a little to the North

of west as far as I can discover it; and is bounded on each side by a

range of high Mountains. tho those on the E. side are lowest and more

distant from the river.

This evening the Indians entertained us with their dancing nearly all

night. at 12 O'Ck. I grew sleepy and retired to rest leaving the men to

amuse themselves with the Indians. I observe no essential difference

between the music and manner of dancing among this nation and those of

the Missouri. I was several times awoke in the course of the night by

their yells but was too much fortiegued to be deprived of a tolerable

sound night's repose.

This morning Capt Clark set out early having previously dispatched some

hunters ahead. it was cool and cloudy all the forepart of the day. at 8

A.M. they had a slight rain. they passed a number of shoals over which

they were obliged to drag the canoes; the men in the water 3/4ths of

the day, they passed a bold runing stream 7 yds. wide on the Lard. side

just below a high point of Limestone rocks. this stream we call

McNeal's Creek after Hugh McNeal one of our party. this creek heads in

the Mountains to the East and forms a handsome valley for some miles

between the mountains. from the top of this limestone Clift above the

creek The beaver's head boar N 24° E. 12 Ms. the course of Wisdom river

or that which the opening of it's valley makes through the mountains is

N. 25 W. to the gap through which Jefferson's river enters the

mountains above is S 18° W 10 M. they killed one deer only today. saw a

number of Otter some beaver Antelopes ducks gees and Grains. they

caught a number of fine trout as they have every day since I left them.

they encamped on Lrd. in a smooth level prarie near a few cottonwood

trees, but were obliged to make use of the dry willow brush for fuel.

[Clark, August 13, 1805]

August 13th Tuesday 1805

a verry Cool morning the Thermometer Stood at 52 a 0 all the fore part

of the day. Cloudy at 8 oClock a mist of rain we proceeded on passed

inumerable Sholes obliged to haul the boat 3/4 of the Day over the

Shole water. passed the mouth of a bold running Stream 7 yards wide on

the Lard Side below a high Point of Limestone rocks on the Stard Side

this Creek heads in the mountains to the easte and forms a Vallie

between two mountains. Call this stream McNeal Creek From the top of

this rock the Point of the Beaver head hill bears N. 24° E 12 ms.