This morning Capt. Clark dispatched two men to kill some buffaloe, two
others to the falls to surch for the articles lost yesterday, one he
retained to cook and sent the others for the baggage left in the plains
yesterday. the hunters soon returned loaded with meat those sent for
the baggage brought it up in a few hours, he then set four men at work
to make axeltrees and repare the carrages; the others he employed in
conveying the baggage over the run on their sholders it having now
fallent to about 3 feet water. the men complained much today of the
bruises and wounds which they had received yesterday from the hail. the
two men sent to the falls returned with the compas which they found
covered in the mud and sand near the mouth of the rivene the other
articles were irrecoverably lost. they found that part of rivene in;
which Capt. C. had been seting yesterday, filled with huge rocks. at 11
A.M. Capt. Clark dispatched the party with a load of the baggage as far
as the 6 miles stake, with orders to deposit it there and return with
the carriages which they did accordingly. they experienced a heavy gust
of wind this evening from the S. W. after which it was a fair
afternoon. more buffaloe than usual were seen about their camp; Capt. C
assured me that he beleives he saw at least ten thousand at one view.
[Clark, June 30, 1805]
June 30th Sunday 1805.
a fair morning, I dispatch the party except 5 for the remaining baggage
Scattered in the plains, two to hunt for meat, two to the falls, and
one to Cook at 10 oClock the hunters Came in loaded with fat meat, &
those were dispatched for the baggage returned with it. I Set 4 men to
make new axeltrees & repare the Carrages, others to take the load
across the run which had fallen & is about 3 feet water, men Complain
of being Swore this day dull and lolling about, The two men dispatched
in Serch of the articls lost yesterday returned and brought the Compass
which they found in the mud & Stones near the mouth of the revein, no
other articles found, the place I Sheltered under filled up with hugh
Rocks, I Set the party out at 11 oClock to take a load to the 6 mile
Stake & return this evening, and I intend to take on the ballance to
the river tomorrow if the prarie will permit. at 3 oClock a Storm of
wind from the S. W. after which we had a clear evening. Great numbers
of Buffalow in every direction, I think 10,000 may be Seen in a view.
[Lewis, July 1, 1805]
Monday July 1st 1805.
This morning I set Frazier and Whitehouse to sewing the leather on the
sides of the sections of the boat; Shields and J. Fields to collect and
split light wood and prepare a pit to make tar. Gas I set at work to
make the way strips out of some willow limbs which tho indifferent were
the best which could be obtained. Drewyer and myself completed the
opperation of rendering the tallow; we obtained about 100 lbs. by
evening the skins were all attatched to their sections and I returned
them again to the water. all matters were now in readiness to commence
the opperation of puting the parts of the boat together in the morning.
the way strips are not yet ready but will be done in time as I have
obtained the necessary timber. the difficulty in obtaining the
necessary materials has retarded my operations in forming this boat
extreemly tedious and troublesome; and as it was a novel peice of
machinism to all who were employed my constant attention was necessary
to every part of the work; this together with the duties of cheif cook
has kept me pretty well employed. at 3 P.M. Capt. Clark arrived with
the party all very much fortiegued. he brought with him all the baggage
except what he had deposited yesterday at the six mile stake, for which
the party were too much fortiegued to return this evening. we gave them
a dram and suffered them to rest from their labours this evening. I
directed Bratton to assist in making the tar tomorrow, and scelected
several others to assist in puting the boat together. the day has been
warm and the Musquetoes troublesome of course the bear were about our
camp all last night, we have therefore determined to beat up their
quarters tomorrow, and kill them or drive them from their haunts about
this place.
[Clark, July 1, 1805]
White Bear Islands above the Falls of the Missouri July 1st Monday 1805
I arrived at this place to day at 3 oClock P.M. with the party from the
lower part of the portage much fatigued &c.
[Clark, July 1, 1805]
July 1st Monday 1805.
We Set out early this morning with the remaining load, and proceeded on
verry well to Capt Lewis's Camp where we arrived at 3 oClock, the Day
worm and party much fatigued, found Capt. Lewis and party all buisey
employd in fitting up the Iron boat, the wind hard from the S, W,--one
man verry unwell, his legs & theis broke out and Swelled the hail which
fell at Capt. Lewis Camp 27 Ins was 7 Inches in circumfrance & waied 3
ounces, fortunately for us it was not So large in the plains, if it had
we Should most certainly fallen victims to its rage as the men were
mostly naked, and but few with hats or any covering on their heads, The
hunters killed 3 white bear one large, the fore feet of which measured
9 Inchs across, the hind feet 11 Inchs 3/4 long & 7 Inch's wide a bear
nearly Catching Joseph Fields Chased him into the water, bear about the
Camp every night & Seen on an Isld. in the day
[Lewis, July 2, 1805]
Tuesday July 2cd 1805
A shower of rain fell very early this morning after which we dispatched
the men for the remaining baggage at the 6 mile stake. Shields and
Bratton seting their tarkiln, Sergts. Pryor and Gass at work on the
waystrips and myself and all other hands engaged in puting the boat
together which we accomplished in about 3 hours and I then set four men
at work sewing the leather over the cross bars of Iron on the inner
side of the boat, which form the ends of the sections. about 2 P.M. the
party returned with the baggage, all well pleased that they had
completed the laborious task of the portage. The Musquetoes uncommonly
troublesome the wind hard from the S. W. all day I think it possible
that these almost perpetual S. W. winds proceede from the agency of the
Snowey Mountains and the wide level and untimbered plains which streach
themselves along their bases for an immence distance (i e) that the air
comeing in contact with the snow is suddonly chilled and condenced,
thus becoming heaver than the air beneath in the plains, it glides down
the sides of these mountains & decends to the plains, where by the
constant action of the sun on the face of an untimbered country there
is a partial vacuum formed for it's reception. I have observed that the
winds from this quarter are always the coldest and most violent which
we experience, yet I am far from giving full credit to my own
hypothesis on this subject; if hoever I find on the opposite side of
these mountains that the winds take a contrary direction I shall then
have more faith. After I had completed my observation of Equal
Altitudes today Capt. Clark Myself and 12 men passed over to the large
Island to hunt bear. the brush in that part of it where the bear
frequent is an almost impenetrable thicket of the broad leafed willow;
this brush we entered in small parties of 3 or four together and
surched in every part. we found one only which made at Drewyer and he
shot him in the brest at the distance of about 20 feet, the ball
fortunately passed through his heart, the stroke knocked the bear down
and gave Drewyer time to get out of his sight; the bear changed his
course we pursued him about a hundred yards by the blood and found him
dead; we surched the thicket in every part but found no other, and
therefore returned. this was a young male and would weigh about 400
lbs. the water of the Missouri here is in most places about 10 feet
deep. after our return, in moving some of the baggage we caught a large
rata it was somewhat larger than the common European rat, of lighter
colour; the body and outer part of the legs and head of a light lead
colour, the belly and inner side of the legs white as were also the
feet and years. the toes were longer and the ears much larger than the
common rat; the ears uncovered with hair. the eyes were black and
prominent the whiskers very long and full. the tail was reather longer
than the body and covered with fine fur or poil of the same length and
colour of the back. the fur was very silkey close and short. I have
frequently seen the nests of these rats in clifts of rocks and hollow
trees but never before saw one of them. they feed very much on the
fruit and seed of the prickly pear; or at least I have seen large
quantities of the hulls of that fruit lying about their holes and in
their nests.
[Clark, July 2, 1805]
July 2nd Tuesday 1805
Some rain at day light this morning. dispatched the party for the
remaining baggage left at the 6 mile Stake, they returned in the
evening and we Crossed to a large Island nearly opposit to us to kill
bear which has been Seen frequently in the Island, we killed one bear &
returned at Sun Set. The Roreing of the falls for maney miles above us
[Clark, July 2, 1805]
July 2nd Tuesday 1805
Some rain at day light this morn'g after which a fair morning,
dispatched the men for the Kegs &c. left at the Six mile Stake, others
to get timber for the boat &c. Musquetors verry troublesom to day, day
worm, after the return of the men with the articles left at the 6 mile
Stake Capt. Lewis my Self & 12 men Crossed to an Island on which we Saw
a bear the evening before, & Several had been Seen by the party at this
place, we killed one of the bear and returned. The river at this place
is ____ yards wide and about 10 feet water Cought a rat in our Stores,
which had done some mischief, this rat was about the Sise of a Comn.
large rat, larger ears, long whiskers & toes, with a tail long & hairey
like a ground Squirel, verry fine fur and lighter than the Common rat.
Wind to day as usial from the S. W. and hard all the after part of the
day, those winds are also Cool and generally verry hard.
[Lewis, July 3, 1805]
Wednesday July 3rd 1805.
This morning early we employed all hands; some were making tar or
attempting to make it, others were attatching the skins on the boat,
other cuting and fiting the bark for lining puting in the woodworke &c
some hunters were sent out to kill buffaloe in order to make pemecon to
take with us and also for their skins which we now want to cover our
baggage in the boat and canoes when we depart from hence. the Indians
have informed us that we should shortly leave the buffaloe country
after passing the falls; this I much regret for I know when we leave
the buffaloe that we shal sometimes be under the necessity of fasting
occasionally. and at all events the white puddings will be
irretreivably lost and Sharbono out of imployment. our tar-kiln which
ought to have began to run this morning has yealded no tar as yet and I
am much affraid will not yeald any, if so I fear the whole opperation
of my boat will be useless. I fear I have committed another blunder
also in sewing the skins with a nedle which has sharp edges these have
cut the skin and as it drys I discover that the throng dose not fill
the holes as I expected tho I made them sew with a large throng for
that purpose. at 10 OCk A.M. we had a slight shower which scarcely wet
the grass. One buffaloe only and 2 Antelopes killed today six beaver
and 2 otter have been killed within the last three days. The current of
the river looks so gentle and inviting that the men all seem anxious to
be moving upward as well as ourselves. we have got the boat prety well
forward today and think we shall be able to complete her tomorrow
except paying her, to do which will require some little time to make
her first perfectly dry. she has assumed her shape and looks extreemly
well. She will be very light, more so than any vessel of her size that
I ever saw.
[Clark, July 3, 1805]
July 3rd Wednesday 1805
all of party employd in Sowing the Skins to the boat, burning Tare,
preparing timber, hunting buffalow for their meat & Skins, drying &
repacking the Stores, Goods &c. &c. at 1 oClock began to rain. in the
evening the hunters killed two antilopes & a Buffalow.
[Clark, July 3, 1805]
July 3rd Wednesday 1805
A fine morning wind from the S. W all the party employd, Some about the
boat, attaching the Skins & Sowing them to the Sections, others
prepareing timber, Some, burning tar of the drift pine, Some airring
and repacking the Stores & Goods, & others hunting for Meet to make
pemitigon & for the use of their Skins to Cover the Canoes & boat,-. a
Small Shower at 1 oClock which did Scercely wet the grass-. one
buffalow and two Antilopes Killed this evening. Six beaver & 2 orters
has been Killed at this camp within a fiew days we discover no fish
above the falls as yet--the only timber in this part of the Countrey is
willow, a fiew Cotton trees which is neither large nor tall, Boxalders
and red wood. (Boil roche arrow wood)
The water tolerably clear and Soft in the river, Current jentle and
bottoms riseing from the water; no appearance of the river riseing more
than a few feet above the falls, as high up as we have yet explored.
but few trees on the Std Side the grass is high and fine near the
river. the winds has blown for Several days from the S. W. I think it
possible that those almost perpetial S W. winds, proceed from the
agency of the Snowey mountains and the wide leavel and untimbered
plains which Streach themselves along their borders for an emence
distance, that the air comeing in Contact with the Snow is Suddenly
chilled and condensed, thus becomeing heavyer than the air beneath in
the plains it glides down the Sides of those mountains and decends to
the plains, where by the constant action of the Sun on the face of the
untimbered country there is a partial vacuom formed for it's reception
I have observed that the winds from this quarter is always the Coaldest
and most violent which we experience, yet I am far from giveing full
credit to this hypothesis on this Subject; if I find however on the
opposit Side of these mountains that the winds take a contrary
direction I Shall then have full faith. (The winds take a contrary
direction in the morning or from the mountains on the west Side)
[Lewis, July 4, 1805]
Thursday July 4th 1805.
Yesterday we permitted Sergt. Gass McNeal and several others who had
not yet seen the falls to visit them. no appearance of tar yet and I am
now confident that we shall not be able to obtain any; a serious
misfortune. I employed a number of hands on the boat today and by 4
P.M. in the evening completed her except the most difficult part of the
work that of making her seams secure. I had her turned up and some
small fires kindled underneath to dry her. Capt. C. completed a draught
of the river from Fort Mandan to this place which we intend depositing
at this place in order to guard against accedents. not having seen the
Snake Indians or knowing in fact whether to calculate on their
friendship or hostility or friendship we have conceived our party
sufficiently small and therefore have concluded not to dispatch a canoe
with a part of our men to St. Louis as we had intended early in the
spring. we fear also that such a measure might possibly discourage
those who would in such case remain, and might possibly hazzard the
fate of the expedition. we have never once hinted to any one of the
party that we had such a scheme in contemplation, and all appear
perfectly to have made up their minds to suceed in the expedition or
purish in the attempt. we all beleive that we are now about to enter on
the most perilous and difficult part of our voyage, yet I see no one
repining; all appear ready to met those difficulties which wait us with
resolution and becoming fortitude. we had a heavy dew this morning. the
clouds near these mountains rise suddonly and discharge their contents
partially on the neighbouring plains; the same cloud will discharge
hail alone in one part hail and rain in another and rain only in a
third all within the space of a few miles; and on the Mountains to the
S. E. of us sometimes snow. at present there is no snow on those
mountains; that which covered them when we first saw them and which has
fallen on them several times since has all disappeared. the Mountains
to the N. W. & W. of us are still entirely covered are white and
glitter with the reflection of the sun. I do not beleive that the
clouds which prevail at this season of the year reach the summits of
those lofty mountains; and if they do the probability is that they
deposit snow only for there has been no perceptible deminution of the
snow which they contain since we first saw them. I have thought it
probable that these mountains might have derived their appellation of
shining Mountains, from their glittering appearance when the sun shines
in certain directions on the snow which covers them. since our arrival
at the falls we have repeatedly witnessed a nois which proceeds from a
direction a little to the N. of West as loud and resembling precisely
the discharge of a piece of ordinance of 6 pounds at the distance of
three miles. I was informed of it by the men several times before I
paid any attention to it, thinking it was thunder most probably which
they had mistaken at length walking in the plains the other day I heard
this noise very distictly, it was perfectly calm clear and not a cloud
to be seen, I halted and listened attentively about an hour during
which time I heard two other discharges and tok the direction of the
sound with my pocket compass. I have no doubt but if I had leasure I
could find from whence it issued. I have thout it probable that it
might be caused by runing water in some of the caverns of those immence
mountains, on the principal of the blowing caverns; but in such case
the sounds would be periodical & regular, which is not the case with
this, being sometimes heard once only and at other times, six or seven
discharges in quick succession. it is heard also at different seasons
of the day and night. I am at a loss to account for this phenomenon.
our work being at an end this evening, we gave the men a drink of
sperits, it being the last of our stock, and some of them appeared a
little sensible of it's effects the fiddle was plyed and they danced
very merrily untill 9 in the evening when a heavy shower of rain put an
end to that part of the amusement tho they continued their mirth with
songs and festive jokes and were extreemly merry untill late at night.
we had a very comfortable dinner, of bacon, beans, suit dumplings &
buffaloe beaf &c. in short we had no just cause to covet the sumptuous
feasts of our countrymen on this day.--one Elk and a beaver were all
that was killed by the hunters today; the buffaloe seem to have
withdrawn themselves from this neighbourhood; tho the men inform us
that they are still abundant about the falls.
[Clark, July 4, 1805]
,July the 4th Thursday 1805
A fine morning, a heavy dew last night, all hands employed in
Completeing the leather boat, gave the Party a dram which made Several
verry lively, a black Cloud came up from the S. W, and rained a fiew
drops I employ my Self drawing a Copy of the river to be left at this
place for fear of Some accident in advance, I have left buried below
the falls a Map of the Countrey below Fort Mandan with Sundery private
papers the party amused themselves danceing untill late when a Shower
of rain broke up the amusement, all lively and Chearfull, one Elk and a
beaver kill'd to day. our Tar kill like to turn out nothing from the
following cause.
The climate about the falls of Missouri appears to be Singular Cloudy
every day (Since our arrival near them) which rise from defferent
directions and discharge themselves partially in the plains &
mountains, in Some places rain others rain & hail, hail alone, and on
the mountains in Some parts Snow. a rumbling like Cannon at a great
distance is heard to the west if us; the Cause we Can't account
[Lewis, July 5, 1805]
Friday July 5th 1805.
This morning I had the boat removed to an open situation, scaffold her
off the ground, turned her keel to the sun and kindled fires under her
to dry her more expeditiously. I then set a couple of men to pounding
of charcoal to form a composition with some beeswax which we have and
buffaloe tallow now my only hope and resource for paying my boat; I
sincerely hope it may answer yet I fear it will not. the boat in every
other rispect completely answers my most sanguine expectation; she is
not yet dry and eight men can carry her with the greatest ease; she is
strong and will carry at least 8,000 lbs. with her suit of hands; her
form is as complete as I could wish it. the stitches begin to gape very
much since she has began to dry; I am now convinced this would not have
been the case had the skins been sewed with a sharp point only and the
leather not cut by the edges of a sharp nedle. about 8 A M. a large
herd of buffaloe came near our camp and Capt. Clark with a party of the
hunters indeavoured to get a shoot at them but the wind proved
unfavourable and they ran off; the hunters pursued and killed three of
them; we had most of the meat brought in and set a party to drying it.
their skins were all brought in and streached to dry for the purpose of
covering the baggage. 2 Wolves and three Antelopes also killed today.
we permitted three other men to visit the falls today; these were the
last of the party who had not as yet indulged themselves with this
grand and interesting seen. the buffaloe again appear in great numbers
about our camp and seem to be moving down the river. it is somewhat
remarkable that altho you may see ten or a douzen herds of buffaloe
distinctly scattered and many miles distant yet if they are undisturbed
by pursuit, they will all be traveling in one direction. the men who
were permitted to visit the falls today returned in the evening and
reported that the buffaloe were very numerous in that quarter; and as
the country is more broken near the river in that quarter we conclude
to dispatch a couple of canoes tomorrow with some hunters to kill as
many as will answer our purposes.
The plains in this part of the country are not so fertile as below the
entrance of the Cockkle or missel shell river and from thence down the
Missouri there is also much more stone on the sides of the hills and on
the broken lands than below.-
[Clark, July 5, 1805]
July 5th Friday 1805
A fine morning and but little wind, worm and Sultrey at 8 oClock--I Saw
a large gangue of Buffalow and prosued them with Several men the wind
was unfavourable and we Could not get near them, the party Scattered &
Killed 3 buffalow and brought in their Skins and Some meat, Killed 2
wolves & 3 Antilopes for their Skins, Capt. Lewis much engaged in
Completeing the Leather boat. Three men went to See the Falls, Saw
great numbers of Buffalow on both Sides of the river. great numbers of
young black birds
[Lewis, July 6, 1805]
Saturday July 6th 1805
In the couse of last night had several showers of hail and rain
attended with thunder and lightning. about day a heavy storm came on
from the S W attended with hail rain and a continued roar of thunder
and some lightning. the hail was as large as musket balls and covered
the ground perfectly. we hand some of it collected which kept very well
through the day and served to cool our water. These showers and gusts
keep my boat wet in dispite of my exertions. she is not yet ready for
the grease and coal. after the hail and rain was over this morning we
dispatched 4 hunters and two canoes to the head of the rappids as we
had determined last evening. the red and yellow courants are now ripe
and abundant, they are reather ascid as yet. There is a remarkable
small fox which ascociate in large communities and burrow in the
praries something like the small wolf but we have not as yet been able
to obtain one of them; they are extreemly watchfull and take reffuge in
their burrows which are very deep; we have seen them no where except
near these falls.
[Clark, July 6, 1805]
July 6th Satturday 1805
a heavy wind from the S W and Some rain about mid night last, at day
light this morning a verry black Cloud from the S W, with a Contined
rore of thunder & Some lightening and rained and hailed tremendiously
for about 1/2 an hour, the hail was the Size of a musket ball and
Covered the ground. this hail & rain was accompand. by a hard wind
which lasted for a fiew minits. Cloudy all the forepart of the day,
after Part Clear. dispatched 4 men in 2 Canoes to the falls, to kill
Buffalow, for their Skins & Meat others employd about the boat, I
cought Some Small fish this evening.
[Lewis, July 7, 1805]
Sunday July 7th 1805.
The weather warm and cloudy therefore unfavourable for many operations;
I keep small fires under the boat; the blowing flies are innumerable
about it; the moisture retained by the bark prevents it from drying as
fast as it otherwise would. we dispatched two other hunters to kill Elk
or buffaloe for their skins to cover our baggage. we have no tents; the
men are therefore obliged to have recourse to the sails for shelter
from the weather and we have not more skins than are sufficient to
cover our baggage when stoed away in bulk on land. many of the men are
engaged in dressing leather to cloath themselves. their leather
cloathes soon become rotton as they are much exposed to the water and
frequently wet. Capt. Clarks black man York is very unwell today and he
gave him a doze of tartar emettic which operated very well and he was
much better in the evening. this is a discription of medecine that I
nevr have recourse to in my practice except in cases of the
intermittent fever. this evening the hunters returned with the canoes
and brought thre buffaloe skins only and two Antelope 4 deer and three
wolf skins; they reported that the buffaloe had gone further down the
river. the two hunters whom we sent out from hence returned also
without having killed anything except one Elk. I set one of the party
at work to make me some sacks of the wolf skins, to transport my
Instruments when occasion requirs their being carried any distance by
land.--we had a light shower of rain about 4 P.M. attended with some
thunder and lightning. one beaver caught this morning. the musquetoes
are excessively troublesome to us. I have prepared my composition which
I should have put on this evening but the rain prevented me.
[Clark, July 7, 1805]
July 7th Sunday 1805
A Warm day wind from the S. W Cloudy as usial, the four men hunters did
not return last night. dispatched 2 men to kill Elk for the use of
their Skin for the boat. my man York Sick, I give him a dosh of Tarter.
Some rain in the after part of the day in the evining the hunters
returned with three buffalow Skins two goat Skins, four Deer Skins, two
deer, & 3 wolve Skins, to be used in Covering the boat Canoes & to make
mockersons, one Elk also killed to day
[Lewis, July 8, 1805]
Monday July 8th 1805.
Capt. Clark Determined to make a second effort to replace the notes
which he had made with rispect to the river and falls accordingly he
set out after an early breakfast and took with him the greater part of
the men with a view also to kill buffaloe should there be any in that
quarter. after geting some distance in the plains he divided the party
and sent them in different directions and himself and two others struck
the Missouri at the entrance of medicine river and continued down it to
the great Cataract, from whence he returned through the plains to camp
where he arrived late in the evening. the hunters also returned having
killed 3 buffaloe 2 Antelopes and a deer. he informed me that the
immence herds of buffaloe which we had seen for some time past in this
neighbourhood have almost entirely disappeared and he beleives are gone
down the river.
The day being warm and fair about 12 OCk. the boat was sufficiently dry
to receive a coat of the composition which I accordingly applyed. this
adds very much to her appearance whether it will be effectual or not.
it gives her hull the appearance of being formed of one solid piece.
after the first coat had cooled I gave her a second which I think has
made it sufficiently thick. The mountains which ly before us from the
South, to the N. W. still continue covered with snow. one hunter also
passed the river to hunt this morning in the evening he returned having
killed a Buck and a male Antelope. The party who were down with Capt.
Clark also killed a small fox which they brought with them. it was a
female appeared to give suck, otherwise it is so much like the comm
small fox of this country commonly called the kit fox that I should
have taken it for a young one of that species; however on closer
examination it did apear to differ somewhat; it's colour was of a
lighter brown, it's years proportionably larger, and the tale not so
large or the hair not so long which formed it. they are very delicately
formed, exceedingly fleet, and not as large as the common domestic cat.
their tallons appear longer than any species of fox I ever saw and seem
therefore prepared more amply by nature for the purpose of burrowing.
there is sufficient difference for discrimination between it and the
kit fox, and to satisfy me perfectly that it is a distinct species. the
men also brought me a living ground squirrel which is something larger
than those of the U States or those of that kind which are also common
here. this is a much hadsomer anamal. like the other it's principal
colour is a redish brown but is marked longitudinally with a much
greater number of black or dark bron stripes; the spaces between which
is marked by ranges of pure white circular spots, about the size of a
brister blue shot. these colours imbrace the head neck back and sides;
the tail is flat, or the long hair projecting horizontally from two
sides of it only gives it that appearance. the belly and breast are of
much lighter brown or nearly white. this is an inhabitant of the open
plain altogether, wher it burrows and resides; nor is it like the other
found among clifts of rocks or in the woodlands. their burrows
sometimes like those of the mole run horizontally near the surface of
the ground for a considerable distance, but those in which they reside
or take refuge strike much deeper in the earth.--Slight rain this
afternoon. musquetoes troublesome as usual.
[Clark, July 8, 1805]
July 8th Monday 1805
A worm morning flying Clouds I deturmin take the width of the river at
the falls & the Medison river and to take the greater part of the men
which Can be Speared to Kill Buffalow for their Skins as well as meat,
devided the party & Sent them in different directions to hunt &
proceeded my Self to the mouth of Medison river measured it and found
it to be 137 yards wide, in the narrowest part of the Missouri
imediately above Medison river the Missouri is 300 yards wide, below
and a little above the falls 1440 yards wide with the direction of the
upper great fall 580 yards wide, at the great Spring 270 yards wide, at
the handsom falls of 47 ft. 8 I. the river is 473 yards wide, at the
lower great falls the river is confined within 280 yards, below the
falls the water occupies 93 yards only--after takeing the wedth of the
river at those Sundery placies I returned thro the plains in a direct
line to Camp. Some rain this evening after a verry hot day.--the
mountains which are in view to the South & N W. are Covered with Snow.
those nearer us and forma 3/4 Circle around us is not Covered with Snow
at this time. The hunters killed 3 buffalow, two antelopes, & a Deer to
day--the emence herds of buffalow which was near us a fiew days ago,
has proceeded on down the river, we Can See but a fiew Bulls in the
plains
[Lewis, July 9, 1805]
Tuesday July 9th 1805.
The morning was fair and pleant. the Islands seem crouded with
blackbirds; the young brude is now completely feathered and flying in
common with the others. we corked the canoes and put them in the water
and also launched the boat, she lay like a perfect cork on the water.
five men would carry her with the greatest ease. I now directed seats
to be fixed in her and oars to be fitted. the men loaded the canoes in
readiness to depart. just at this moment a violent wind commenced and
blew so hard that we were obliged to unload the canoes again; a part of
the baggage in several of them got wet before it could be taken out.
the wind continued violent untill late in the evening, by which time we
discovered that a greater part of the composition had seperated from
the skins and left the seams of the boat exposed to the water and she
leaked in such manner that she would not answer. I need not add that
this circumstance mortifyed me not a little; and to prevent her leaking
without pich was impossible with us, and to obtain this article was
equally impossible, therefore the evil was irraparable I now found that
the section formed of the buffaloe hides on which some hair had been
left, answered much the best purpose; this leaked but little and the
parts which were well covered with hair about 1/8th of an inch in
length retained the composition perfectly and remained sound and dry.
from these circumstances I am preswaided, that had I formed her with
buffaloe skins singed not quite as close as I had done those I
employed, that she would have answered even with this composition. but
to make any further experiments in our present situation seemed to me
madness; the buffaloe had principally dserted us, and the season was
now advancing fast. I therefore relinquished all further hope of my
favorite boat and ordered her to be sunk in the water, that the skins
might become soft in order the better to take her in peices tomorrow
and deposite the iron fraim at this place as it could probably be of no
further service to us. had I only singed my Elk skins in stead of
shaving them I beleive the composition would have remained and the boat
have answered; at least untill we could have reached the pine country
which must be in advance of us from the pine which is brought down by
the water and which is probably at no great distance where we might
have supplyed ourselves with the necessary pich or gum. but it was now
too late to introduce a remidy and I bid a dieu to my boat, and her
expected services.--The next difficulty which presented itself was how
we should convey the stores and baggage which we had purposed carrying
in the boat. both Capt. Clark and myself recollected having heard the
hunters mention that the bottoms of the river some few miles above us
were much better timbered than below and that some of the trees were
large. the idea therefore suggested itself of building two other canoes
sufficiently large to carry the surplus baggage. on enquiry of the
hunters it seemed to be the general opinion that trees sufficiently a
large for this purpose might be obtained in a bottom on the opposite
side about 8 miles distant by land and reather more than double that
distance by water; accordingly Capt. Clark determined to set out early
in the morning with ten of the best workmen and proceede by land to
that place while the others would in the mean time be employed by
myself in taking the Boat in peices and depositing her, together with
the articles which we had previously determined to deposit at this
place, and also in trasporting all the baggage up the river to that
point in the six small canoes. this plan being settled between us
orders were accordingly given to the party, and the ten men who were to
accompany Capt. Clark had ground and prepared their axes and adds this
evening in order to prepare for an early departure in the morning. we
have on this as well as on many former occasions found a small
grindstone which I brought with me from Harper's ferry extreemly
convenient to us. if we find trees at the place mentioned sufficiently
large for our purposes it will be extreemly fortunate; for we have not
seen one for many miles below the entrance of musselshell River to this
place, which would have answered.-
[Clark, July 9, 1805]
July 9th Tuesday 1805
a clear worm morning wind from the S W. Lanced the Leather boat, and
found that it leaked a little; Corked Lanced & loaded the Canoes,
hurried our truk wheels, & made a Carsh for a Skin & a fiew papers I
intend to leave here on trial found the leather boat would not answer
without the addition of Tar which we had none of, haveing Substituted
Cole & Tallow in its place to Stop the Seams &c. which would not answer
as it Seperated from the Skins when exposed to the water and left the
Skins naked & Seams exposed to the water this falire of our favourate
boat was a great disapointment to us, we haveing more baggage than our
Canoes would Carry. Concluded to build Canoes for to Carry them; no
timber near our Camp. I deturmined to proceed on up the river to a
bottom in which our hunters reported was large Trees &c.
[Lewis, July 10, 1805]
Wednesday July 10th 1805.
Capt. Clark set out with his party early this morning and passed over
to the opposite side. after which I dispatched Sergt. Ordway with 4
Canoes and 8 men to take up a load of baggage as far as Capt. Clark's
camp and return for the remainder of our plunder. with six others I now
set to work on my boat, which had been previously drawn out of the
water before the men departed, and in two hours had her fraim in
readiness to be deposited. had a cash dug and deposited the Fraim of
the boat, some papers and a few other trivial articles of but little
importance. the wind blew very hard the greater part of the day. I also
had the truck wheels buried in the pit which had been made to hold the
tar. having nothing further to do I amused myself in fishing and caught
a few small fish; they were of the species of white chub mentioned
below the falls, tho they are small and few in number. I had thought on
my first arrival here that there were no fish in this part of the
river. Capt. Clark proceeded up the river 8 miles by land (distance by
water 231/4) and found 2 trees of Cottonwood and cut them down; one
proved to be hollow and split in falling at the upper part and was
somewhat windshaken at bottom; the other proved to be much windshaken.
he surched the bottom for better but could not find any he therefore
determined to make canoes of those which he had fallen; and to contract
their length in such manner as to clear the craks and the worst of the
windsken parts making up the deficiency by allowing them to be as wide
as the trees would permit. they were much at a loss for wood to make
axhandles. the Chokecherry is the best we can procure for this purpose
and of that wood they made and broke thir 13 handles in the course of
this part of a day. had the eyes of our axes been round they would have
answered this country much better. the musquetoes were very troublesome
to them as well as ourselves today. Sergt. Ordway proceeded up the
river about 5 miles when the wind became so violent that he was obliged
to ly by untill late in the evening when he again set out with the
canoes and arrived within 3 miles of Capt. Clark's Camp where he halted
for the night. about five miles above whitebear camp there are two
Islands in the river covered with Cottonwood box alder and some sweet
willow also the undergrowth like that of the islands at this place.-
[Clark, July 10, 1805]
July 10th Wednesday 1805
a fair windey day wind hard the most of the day from the S. W.rained
modderately all last night (by Showers) we dispatched Serjt. Ordway
with 4 Canoes loaded & 8 men by water to assend as high as I Should
have found timber for Canoes & formed a Camp;-. I Set out with Sergt.
Pryor four Choppers two Involids & one man to hunt, Crossed to the Std.
Side and proceeded on up the river 8 miles by land (distance by water
231/4 ms.) and found two Trees which I thought would make Canoes, had
them fallen, one of them proved to be hollow & Split at one End & verry
much win Shaken at the other, the other much win Shaken, we Serched the
bottoms for better trees and made a trial of Several which proved to be
more indifferent. I deturmined to make Canoes out of the two first
trees we had fallen, to Contract thir length so as to clear the hollow
& winshakes, & ad to the width as much as the tree would allow. The
Musquitors emencely noumerous & troublesom, Killed two deer & a goat.
The Canoes did not arrive as I expected, owing to the hard wind which
blew a head in maney places. we ar much at a loss for wood to make ax
hilthes,13 hath been made & broken in this piece of a day by the four
Choppers, no other wood but Cotton Box elder Choke Cherry and red arrow
wood. we Substitute the Cherry in place of Hickory for ax hilthes ram
rods, &c. &c.
[Lewis, July 11, 1805]
Thursday July 11th 1805.
We had now nothing to do but wait for the canoes; as they had not
returned I sent out some of the small party with me to hunt; in the
evening they returned with a good quantity of the flesh of a fat
buffaloe which they had killed. the canoes not arrived this evening. I
saw several very large grey Eagles today they are a half as large again
as the common bald Eagle of this country. I do not think the bald Eagle
here qute so large as those of the U States; the grey Eagle is
infinitely larger and is no doubt a distinct species. this evening a
little before the sun set I heared two other discharges of this
unaccounable artillery of the Rocky Mountains proceeding from the same
quarter that I had before heard it. I now recollected the Minnetares
making mention of the nois which they had frequently heard in the Rocky
Mountains like thunder; and which they said the mountains made; but I
paid no attention to the information supposing it either false or the
fantom of a supersticious immagination. I have also been informed by
the engages that the Panis and Ricaras give the same account of the
Black mountains which lye West of them. this phenomenon the philosophy
of the engages readily accounts for; they state it to be the bursting
of the rich mines of silver which these mountains contain.
This morning Capt. Clark dispatched Bratton to meet the canoes which
were detained by the wind to get a couple of axes. he obtained the axes
and returned in about two hours. this man has been unable to work for
several days in consequence of a whitlow on one of his fingers; a
complaint which has been very common among the men. one of the canoes
arrived at Capt. Clarks camp about 10 A.M. this he had unloaded and set
a few miles up the river for a buffaloe which had been killed, the
party sent killed another in thir rout and brought in the flesh and
skins of both they were in good order; his hunters had also killed two
deer and an Antelope yesterday. the three other canoes did not arrive
untill late in the evening in consequence of the wind and the fear of
weting their loads which consisted of articles much more liable to be
injured by moisture than those which composed the load of that which
arrived in the morning. Capt. C. had the canoes unloaded and ordered
them to float down in the course of the night to my camp, but the wind
proved so high after night that they were obliged to put too about 8
miles above and remain untill morning. Capt. C. kept the party with him
busily engaged at the canoes. his hunters killed and brought in three
very fat deer this evening.
[Clark, July 11, 1805]
July 11th Thursday 1805
a fair windey morning wind S. W. I dispatch W Bratten (who cannot work
he haveing a turner rising on his finger) to meat the Canoes & bring
from them two axes, which is necessary for the work at the perogues or
Canoes, and is indespenceable he returned in about two hours & informed
that one Canoe was within three miles, about 1 oClock the Canoe which
Bratten left arrived haveing killed a Buffalow on the river above our
Camp, at which place the bend of the river below & that above is about
1 mile apart, I dispatched Serjt. Pryor with 3 men in the Canoe to get
the meat they killed another buffalow near the one killed and brought
the meat of both down. at Sunset the 3 remaining Canoes arrived
unloaded & returned imeadeately with orders to flote down to Camp at
the portage to night for the purpose of takeing up the remaining
baggage. Musquitors verry troublesom, and in addition to their torments
we have a Small Knat, which is as disagreeable, our hunter killed 3
Deer to day one of them verry fat. all the men with me engaged about
the Canoes hunting &c. &.
[Lewis, July 12, 1805]
Friday July 12th 1805.
The canoes not having arrived and the wind still high I dispatched
Sergt. Gass with three men to join Capt. Clark and assist in completing
the canoes retaining only a few who in addition to those in the canoes
that I expect every moment, will be sufficient to man the six canoes
and take up all the baggage we have here at one load. I feel
excessively anxious to be moving on. the canoes were detained by the
wind untill 2 P.M. when they set out and arrived at this place so late
that I thought it best to detain them untill morning. Bratton came down
today for a cople of axes which I sent by him; he returned immediately.
Sergt. Gass and party joined Capt. Clark at 10 A.M. Capt. C. kept all
the men with him busily engaged some in drying meat, others in hunting,
and as many as could be employed about the canoes. Segt. Pryor got his
sholder dislocated yesterday, it was replaced immediately and is likely
to do him but little injury; it is painfull to him today. the hunters
with Capt. C. killed three deer and two otter today. the otter are now
plenty since the water has become sufficiently clear for them to take
fish. the blue crested fisher, or as they are sometimes called the
Kingfisher, is an inhabitant of this part of the country; this bird is
very rare on the Missouri; I have not seen more than three or four of
those birds during my voyage from the entrance of the Missouri to the
mouth of Maria's river and those few were reather the inhabitants of
streams of clerer water which discharged themselves into the Missouri
than of that river, as they were seen about the entrances of such
streams. Musquetoes extreemly troublesome to me today nor is a large
black knat less troublesome, which dose not sting, but attacks the eye
in swarms and compells us to brush them off or have our eyes filled
with them. I made the men dry the ballance of the freshe meet which we
had abot the camp amounting to about 200 lbs.
[Clark, July 12, 1805]
July 12th Friday 1805
a fair windey morning wind from the S. W. all hands at work at Day
light Some at the Canoes, & others drying meat for our voyage-
Dispatched W. Brattin to the lower Camp for two axes which are
necessary to carry on our work at this place &. Serjt. Pryors Sholder
was put out of place yesterday Carrying Meat and is painfull to day.
wind hard all day dispatched 2 hunters, they returnd in the evening
with three Deer & 2 orters. four men arrived from the lower Camp by
land to assist at this place in building the Canoes &c. musquitors &
knats verry troublesom all day. a fiew wild pigions about our Camp.
[Lewis, July 13, 1805]
Saturday July 13th 1805.
This morning being calm and Clear I had the remainder of our baggage
embarked in the six small canoes and maned them with two men each. I
now bid a cheerfull adue to my camp and passed over to the opposite
shore. Baptiest La Page one of the men whom I had reserved to man the
canoes being sick I sent Charbono in his stead by water and the sick
man and Indian woman accompanyed me by land. from the head of the white
bear Islands I passed in a S. W. direction and struck the Missouri at 3
miles and continued up it to Capt. Clark's camp where I arrived about 9
A.M. and found them busily engaged with their canoes Meat &c. in my way
I passed a very extraordinary Indian lodge, or at least the fraim of
one; it was formed of sixteen large cottonwood poles each about fifty
feet long and at their larger end which rested on the ground as thick
as a man's body; these were arranged in a circular manner at bottom and
equally distributed except the omission of one on the East side which I
suppose was the entrance to the lodge; the upper part of the poles are
united in a common point above and secured with large wyths of willow
brush. in the center of this fabric there was the remains of a large
fire; and about the place the marks of about 80 leather lodges. I know
not what was the intention or design of such a lodge but certain I am
that it was not designed for a dwelling of anyone family. it was 216
feet in circumpherence at the base. it was most probably designed for
some great feast, or a council house on some great national concern. I
never saw a similar one nor do the nations lower down the Missouri
construct such. The canoes and party with Sergt. Ordway poceeded up the
river about 5 miles when the wind became so violent that two of the
canoes shiped a considerable quanty of water and they were compelled to
put too take out the baggage to dry and clense the canoes of the water.
about 5 P.M. the wind abated and they came on about 8 miles further and
encamped. I saw a number of turtledoves and some pigeons today. of the
latter I shot one; they are the same common to the United States, or
the wild pigeon as they are called. nothing remarkable in the
appearance of the country; the timber entirely confined to the river
and the country back on either side as far as the eye can reach
entirely destitute of trees or brush. the timber is larger and more
abundant in the bottom in which we now are than I have seen it on the
Missouri for many hundred miles. the current of the river is still
extreemly gentle. The hunters killed three buffaloe today which were in
good order. the flesh was brought in dryed the skins wer also streached
for covering our baggage. we eat an emensity of meat; it requires 4
deer, an Elk and a deer, or one buffaloe, to supply us plentifully 24
hours. meat now forms our food prinsipally as we reserve our flour
parched meal and corn as much as possible for the rocky mountains which
we are shortly to enter, and where from the indhan account game is not
very abundant. I preserved specemines of several small plants to day
which I have never before seen. The Musquetoes and knats are more
troublesome here if possible than they were at the White bear Islands.
I sent a man to the canoes for my musquetoe bier which I had neglected
to bring with me, as it is impossible to sleep a moment without being
defended against the attacks of these most tormenting of all insects;
the man returned with it a little after dark.
[Clark, July 13, 1805]
July 13th Saturday 1805.
a fair Calm Morning, verry Cool before day--we were visited by a
Buffalow Bull who came within a fiew Steps of one of the Canoes the men
were at work. Capt. Lewis one man &c. arrived over Land at 9 oClock,
the wind rose and blew hard from the S. E. the greater part of the day
both Canoes finished all to Corking & fixing ores &c. &c. The Hunters
killed 3 Buffalow the most of all the meat I had dried for to make
Pemitigon. The Musquetors & Knats verry troublesom all day & night
[Lewis, July 14, 1805]
Sunday July 14th 1805.
This morning was calm fair and warm; the Musquetoes of course
troublesome. all hands that could work were employed about the canoes.
which we completed and launched this evening. the one was 25 feet and
the other 33 feet in length and about 3 feet wide. we have now the
seats and oars to make and fit &c. I walked out today and ascended the
bluffs which are high rockey and steep; I continued my rout about 31/2
when I gained a conspicuous eminence about 2 mes. distant from the
river a little below the entrance of Fort Mountain Creek. from this
place I had a commanding view of the country and took the bearings of
the following places. (viz)
To the point at which the Missouri first enters the Rocky Mountains
S. 28° W.
25
To the termineation of the 1st Chain of Rocky Mountains; northwardly,
being that through which the Missouri first passes
N. 73° W
80
To the extremity or tirmineation of 2cd Chain of the Rocky Mountains
N. 65 W.
150
To the most distant point of a third and continued chain of the same
mts
N. 50°W.
200
The direction of the 2cd Do. from S 45 E. to N. 45 W.
To Fort Mountain
S. 75° W.
8
The country in most parts very level and in others swelling with gentle
rises and decents, or in other wirds what I have heretofore designated
a wavy country destitute of timber except along the water-courses. On
my return to camp found Sergt. Ordway had arrived with all the canoes
about noon and had unloaded them every preperation except the entire
completion of the oars poles &c is made for our departure tomorrow. the
grass and weeds in this bottom are about 2 feet high; which is a much
greater hight than we have seen them elsewhere this season. here I
found the sand rush and nittles in small quantities. the grass in the
plains is not more than 3 inches high. grasshoppers innumerable in the
plains and the small birds before noticed together with the brown
Curlooe still continue nomerous in every part of the plains.
had a slight shower at 4 P.M. this evening.
[Clark, July 14, 1805]
July 14th Sunday 1805
a fine morning Calm and worm musquetors & Knats verry troublesom. The
Canoes arrive at 12 oClock & unloade to Dry &c. finished & Lanced the 2
Canoes, Some rain this afternoon. all prepareing to Set out on tomorrow.
[Lewis, July 15, 1805]
Monday July 15th 1805.
We arrose very early this morning, assigned the canoes their loads and
had it put on board. we now found our vessels eight in number all
heavily laden, notwithstanding our several deposits; tho it is true we
have now a considerable stock of dryed meat and grease. we find it
extreemly difficult to keep the baggage of many of our men within
reasonable bounds; they will be adding bulky articles of but little use
or value to them. At 10 A.M. we once more saw ourselves fairly under
way much to my joy and I beleive that of every individual who compose
the party. I walked on shore and killed 2 Elk near one of which the
party halted and dined. we took the skins marrow bones and a part of
the flesh of these Elk. in order to lighten the burthen of the canoes I
continued my walk all the evening and took our only invalledes Potts an
LaPage with me. we passed the river near where we dined and just above
the entrance of a beautifull river 80 yards wide which falls in on the
Lard. side which in honour of Mr. Robert Smith the Secretary of the
Navy we called Smith's River. this stream meanders through a most
lovely valley to the S. E. for about 25 miles when it enters the Rocky
mountains and is concealed from our view. many herds of buffaloe were
feeding in this valley. we again crossed the river to the Stard. side
and passed through a plain and struck the river at a Northwardly bend
where there was timber here we waited untill the canoes arrived by
which time it was so late that we concluded to encamp for the night.
here Drewyer wouded a deer which ran into the river my dog pursued
caught it drowned it and brought it to shore at our camp. we have now
passed Fort Mountain on our right it appears to be about ten miles
distant. this mountain has a singular appearance it is situated in a
level plain, it's sides stand nearly at right angles with each other
and are each about a mile in extent. these are formed of a yellow clay
only without the mixture of rock or stone of any size and rise
perpendicularly to the hight of 300 feet. the top appears to be a level
plain and from the eminence on which I was yesterday I could see that
it was covered with a similar cost of grass with the plain on which it
stands. the surface appears also to possess a tolerable fertile mole of
2 feet thick. and is to all appearance inaccessible. from it's figure
we gave it the name of fort mountain. those mounds before mentioned
near the falls have much the same appearance but are none of them as
large as this one. the prickly pear is now in full blume and forms one
of the beauties as well as the greatest pests of the plains. the
sunflower is also in blume and is abundant. this plant is common to
every part of the Missouri from it's entrance to this place. the
lambsquarter, wild coucumber, sand rush and narrow dock are also common
here. Drewyer killed another deer and an Otter today. we find it
inconvenient to take all the short meanders of the river which has now
become cooked and much narrower than below, we therefore take it's
general course and lay down the small bends by the eye on our daily
traverse or chart. the river is from too to 150 yds. wide. more timber
on the river than below the falls for a great distance. on the banks of
the river there are many large banks of sand much elivated above the
plains on which they ly and appear as if they had been collected in the
course of time from the river by the almost incessant S. W. winds; they
always appear on the sides of the river opposite to those winds.
The couses and distances from the White bear islands to the camp at
which we made the canoes as taken by Sergt. Ordway.-
[Clark, July 15, 1805]
July 15th Monday 1805
rained all the last night I was wet all night this morning wind hard
from the S. W. we Set out at 10 oClock and proceeded on verry well
passed a river on the Lard Side about 80 yards wide which we Call after
the Secy of the Navey Smiths River the river verry Crooked bottoms
extensive rich and Passes thro a butifull vally between 2 mts. Conts.
high grass, our Canoes being So Small Several of the men Capt. Lewis &
my Self Compelled to walked on Shore & Cross the bends to keep up with
the Canoes--a round mountain on our right abt. 10 miles appears
inaxcessable we Call fort mountain. The Prickley pear in bloom but fiew
other flowers. Sun flowr are common, also lambs quarter & Nettles. Capt
Lew Killed 2 Elk & the hunters killed 2 Deer & a Ortter, we Camped on
the Stard Side at which place I Saw many beaver, the timber on the edge
of the river more Common than below the falls--as I am compelled to
walk on Shore find it verry dificuelt to take the Courses of the river,
as it is verry Crooked more So than below
[Lewis, July 16, 1805]
Tuesday July 16th 1805.
We had a heavy dew last night sen one man back this morning for an ax
that he had carelessly left last evening some miles below, and set out
at an early hour. early this morning we passed about 40 little booths
formed of willow bushes to shelter them from the sun; they appeared to
have been deserted about 10 days; we supposed that they were snake
Indians. they appeared to have a number of horses with them-. this
appearance gives me much hope of meeting with these people shortly.
Drewyer killed a buffaloe this morning near the river and we halted and
breakfasted on it. here for the first time I ate of the small guts of
the buffaloe cooked over a blazing fire in the Indian stile without any
preperation of washing or other clensing and found them very good.-
After breakfast I determined to leave Capt. C. and party, and go on to
the point where the river enters the Rocky Mountains and make the
necessary observations against their arrival; accordingly I set out
with the two invalleds Potts and LaPage and Drewyer; I passed through a
very handsome level plain on the Stard. side of the river, the country
equally level and beautiful) on the opposite side; at the distance of 8
mes. passed a small stream on which I observed a considerable quantity
of aspin. a little before 12 I halted on the river at a Stard. bend and
well timbered bottom about 41/2 miles below the mountains and made the
following observation.
after this observation we pursued our rout through a high roling plain
to a rappid immediately at the foot of the mountain where the Missouri
first enters them. the current of the missouri below these rappids is
strong for several miles, tho just above there is scarcely any current,
the river very narrow and deep abot 70 yds. wide only and seems to be
closely hemned in by the mountains on both sides, the bottoms only a
few yards in width. an Indian road enters the mountain at the same
place with the river on the Stard side and continues along it's border
under the steep clifts these mountains appear to be only about 800 feet
above the river and are formed almost entirely of a hard black
grannite. with a few dwarf pine and cedar scattered on them. at this
place there is a large rock of 400 feet high wich stands immediately in
the gap which the missouri makes on it's passage from the mountains; it
is insulated from the neighbouring mountains by a handsome little plain
which surrounds it base on 3 sides and the Missouri washes it's base on
the other, leaving it on the Lard. as it decends. this rock I called
the tower. it may be ascended with some difficulty nearly to it's
summit, and from it there is a most pleasing view of the country we are
now about to leave. from it I saw this evening immence herds of
buffaloe in the plains below. near this place we killed a fat elk on
which we both dined and suped. the Musquetoes are extreemly troublesome
this evening and I had left my bier, of course suffered considerably,
and promised in my wrath that I never will be guily of a similar peice
of negligence while on this voyage.
[Clark, July 16, 1805]
July 16th Tuesday 1805
a fair morning after a verry cold night, heavy dew, dispatched one man
back for an ax left a fiew miles below, and Set out early Killed a
Buffalow on which we Brackfast Capt Lewis & 3 men went on to the
mountain to take a meridian altitude, passed about 40 Small Camps,
which appeared to be abandoned about 10 or 12 days, Suppose they were
Snake Indians, a fiew miles above I Saw the poles Standing in thir
position of a verry large lodge of 60 feet Diamater, & the appearance
of a number of Leather Lodges about, this Sign was old & appeared to
have been last fall great number of buffalow the river is not So wide
as below from 100 to 150 yards wide & Deep Crouded with Islands &
Crooked Some Scattering timber on its edge Such as Cotton wood Cotton
willow, willow and box elder, the Srubs are arrow wod, red wood, Choke
Cherry, red berries, Goose beries, Sarvis burey, red & yellow Currents
a Spcie of Shomake &c.
I camped on the head of a Small Island near the Stard. Shore at the
Rockey Mountains this Range of mountains appears to run N W & S E and
is about 800 feet higher than the Water in the river faced with a hard
black rock the current of the River from the Medison river to the
mountain is gentle bottoms low and extensive, and its General Course is
S. 10° W. about 30 miles on a direct line
[Lewis, July 17, 1805]
Wednesday July 17th 1805.
The sunflower is in bloom and abundant in the river bottoms. The
Indians of the Missouri particularly those who do not cultivate maze
make great uce of the seed of this plant for bread, or use it in
thickening their scope. they most commonly first parch the seed and
then pound them between two smooth stones until) they reduce it to a
fine meal. to this they sometimes mearly add a portion of water and
drink it in that state, or add a sufficient quantity of marrow grease
to reduce it to the consistency of common dough and eate it in that
manner. the last composition I think much best and have eat it in that
state heartily and think it a pallateable dish. there is but little of
the broad leafed cottonwood above the falls, much the greater portion
being of the narrow leafed kind. there are a great abundance of red
yellow perple & black currants, and service berries now ripe and in
great perfection. I find these fruits very pleasent particularly the
yellow currant which I think vastly preferable to those of our gardens.
the shrub which produces this fruit rises to the hight of 6 or 8 feet;
the stem simple branching and erect. they grow closly ascociated in
cops either in the oppen or timbered lands near the watercouses. the
leaf is petiolate of a pale green and resembles in it's form that of
the red currant common to our gardens. the perianth of the
fructification is one leaved, five cleft, abreviated and tubular, the
corolla is monopetallous funnel-shaped; very long, superior, withering
and of a fine orrange colour. five stamens and one pistillum; of the
first, the fillaments are capillare, inserted into the corolla, equal,
and converging; the anther ovate, biffid and incumbent. with rispect to
the second the germ is roundish, smoth, inferior pedicelled and small;
the style, long, and thicker than the stamens, simple, cylindrical,
smooth, and erect, withering and remains with the corolla untill the
fruit is ripe. stigma simple obtuse and withering.--the fruit is a
berry about the size and much the shape of the red currant of our
gardins, like them growing in clusters supported by a compound
footstalk, but the peduncles which support the several berries are
longer in this species and the berries are more scattered. it is quite
as transparent as the red current of our gardens, not so ascid, & more
agreeably flavored. the other species differ not at all in appearance
from the yellow except in the colour and flavor of their berries. I am
not confident as to the colour of the corolla, but all those which I
observed while in blume as we came up the Missouri were yellow but they
might possibly have been all of the yellow kind and that the perple red
and black currants here may have corollas of different tints from that
of the yellow currant.--The survice berry differs somewhat from that of
the U States the bushes are small sometimes not more than 2 feet high
and scarcely ever exceed 8 and are proportionably small in their stems,
growing very thickly ascosiated in clumps. the fruit is the same form
but for the most part larger more lucious and of so deep a perple that
on first sight you would think them black.--there are two species of
goosbirris here allso but neither of them yet ripe. the choke cherries
also abundant and not yet ripe. there is Box alder, red willow and a
species of sumac here also. there is a large pine tree situated on a
small island at the head of these rappids above our camp; it being the
first we have seen for a long distance near the river I called the
island pine island. This range of the rocky mountains runs from S E to
N. W.--at 8 A.M. this morning Capt. Clark arrived with the party. we
took breakfast here, after which I had the box which contained my
instruments taken by land arround tower rock to the river above the
rappid; the canoes ascended with some difficulty but without loss or
injury, with their loads.
After making those observations we proceed, and as the canoes were
still heavy loaded all persons not employed in navigating the canoes
walled on shore. the river clifts were so steep and frequently
projecting into the river with their perpendicular points in such
manner that we could not pass them by land, we wer therefore compelled
to pass and repass the river very frequently in the couse of the
evening. the bottoms are narrow the river also narrow deep and but
little current. river from 70 to 100 yds. wide. but little timber on
the river aspin constitutes a part of that little. see more pine than
usual on the mountains tho still but thinly scattered. we saw some
mountain rams or bighorned anamals this evening, and no other game
whatever and indeed there is but little appearance of any. in some
places both banks of the river are formed for a short distance of
nearly perpendicular rocks of a dark black grannite of great hight; the
river has the appearance of having cut it's passage in the course of
time through this solid rock. we ascended about 6 miles this evening
from the entrance of the mountain and encamped on the Stard. side where
we found as much wood as made our fires. musquetoes still troublesome
knats not as much so.--Capt. C. now informed me that after I left him
yesterday, he saw the poles of a large lodge in praire on the Stard.
side of the river which was 60 feet in diameter and appeared to have
been built last fall; there were the remains of about 80 leather lodges
near the place of the same apparent date. This large lodge was of the
same construction of that mentioned above the white bear Islands. the
party came on very well and encamped on the lower point of an island
near the Stard. shore on that evening. this morning they had set out
early and proceeded without obstruction untill they reached the rappid
where I was encamped.
[Clark, July 17, 1805]
July 17th Wednesday 1805
Set out early this morning and Crossed the rapid at the Island Cald
pine rapid with Some dificuelty, at this rapid I came up with Capt
Lewis & party took a Medn. altitude & we took Some Luner Observations
&c. and proceeded on, the emence high Precipies oblige all the party to
pass & repass the river from one point to another the river confined in
maney places in a verry narrow Chanel from 70 to 120 yards wide bottoms
narrow without timber and maney places the mountain approach on both
Sides, we observe great deel of Scattering pine on the mountains, Some
aspin, Spruce & fur trees took a meridian altd. which gave for
Lattitude 46° 42' 14" 7/10 N we proceeded on verry well about 8 miles &
Camped on the Stard Side The river crooked bottoms narrow, Clifts high
and Steep, I assended a Spur of the Mountain which I found to be highe
& dificuelt of axcess, Containig Pitch Pine & Covered with grass
Scercely any game to be Seen The yellow Current now ripe also the
fussey red Choke Cheries getting ripe Purple Current are also ripe. Saw
Several Ibex or mountain rams to day
[Lewis, July 18, 1805]
Thursday July 18th 1805.
Set out early this morning. previous to our departure saw a large herd
of the Bighorned anamals on the immencely high and nearly perpendicular
clift opposite to us; on the fase of this clift they walked about and
hounded from rock to rock with apparent unconcern where it appared to
me that no quadruped could have stood, and from which had they made one
false step they must have been precipitated at least a 500 feet. this
anamal appears to frequent such precepices and clifts where in fact
they are perfectly secure from the pursuit of the wolf, bear, or even
man himself.--at the distance of 21/2 miles we passed the entrance of a
considerable river on the Stard. side; about 80 yds. wide being nearly
as wide as the Missouri at that place. it's current is rapid and water
extreamly transparent; the bed is formed of small smooth stones of flat
rounded or other figures. it's bottoms are narrow but possess as much
timber as the Missouri. the country is mountainous and broken through
which it passes. it appears as if it might be navigated but to what
extent must be conjectural. this handsome bold and clear stream we
named in honour of the Secretary of war calling it Dearborn's river.-
as we were anxious now to meet with the Sosonees or snake Indians as
soon as possible in order to obtain information relative to the
geography of the country and also if necessary, some horses we thought
it better for one of us either Capt. C. or myself to take a small party
& proceed on up the river, some distance before the canoes, in order to
discover them, should they be on the river before the daily discharge
of our guns, which was necessary in procuring subsistence for the
party, should allarm and cause them to retreat to the mountains and
conceal themselves, supposing us to be their enemies who visit them
usually by the way of this river. accordingly Capt. Clark set out this
morning after breakfast with Joseph Fields, Pots and his servant York.
we proceeded on tolerably well; the current stonger than yesterday we
employ the cord and oars principally tho sometimes the setting pole. in
the evening we passed a large creek about 30 yds. wide which
disembogues on the Stard. side; it discharges a bold current of water
it's banks low and bed frormed of stones altogether; this stream we
called Ordway's creek after Sergt. John Ordway. I have observed for
several days a species of flax growing in the river bottoms the leaf
stem and pericarp of which resembles the common flax cultivated in the
U States. the stem rises to the hight of about 21/2 or 3 feet high; as
many as 8 or ten of which proceede from the same root. the root appears
to be perennial. the bark of the stem is thick strong and appears as if
it would make excellent Hax. the seed are not yet ripe but I hope to
have an opportunity of collecting some of them after they are so if it
should on experiment prove to yeald good flax and at the same time
admit of being cut without injuring the perennial root it will be a
most valuable plant, and I think there is the greatest probability that
it will do so, for notwithstanding the seed have not yet arrived at
maturity it is puting up suckers or young shoots from the same root and
would seem therefore that those which are fully grown and which are in
the proper stage of vegitation to produce the best fax are not longer
essencial to the preservation or support of the root. the river
somewhat wider than yesterday and the mountains more distant from the
river and not so high; the bottoms are but narrow and little or no
timber near the river. some pine on the mountains which seems
principally confined to their uper region. we killed one Elk this
morning and found part of the flesh and the skin of a deer this evening
which had been kited and left by Capt. Clark. we saw several herds of
the Bighorn but they were all out of our reach on inacessable clifts.-
we encamped on the Lard. side in a small grove of narrow leafed
cottonwood there is not any of the broad leafed cottonwood on the river
since it has entered the mountains. Capt Clark ascended the river on
the Stard. side. in the early part of the day after he left me the
hills were so steep that he gained but little off us; in the evening he
passed over a mountain by which means he cut off many miles of the
river's circuitous rout; the Indian road which he pursued over this
mountain is wide and appears as if it had been cut down or dug in many
places; he passed two streams of water, the branches of Ordway's creek,
on which he saw a number of beaver dams succeeding each other in close
order and extending as far up those streams as he could discover them
in their couse towards the mountains. he also saw many bighorn anamals
on the clifts of the mountains. not far beyond the mountain which he
passed in the evening he encamped on a small stream of runing water.
having travelled about 20 m. the water of those rivulets which make
down from these mountains is extreemly cold pure and fine. the soil
near the river is of a good quality and produces a luxuriant growth of
grass and weeds; among the last the sunflower holds a distinguished
place. the aspin is small but grows very commonly on the river and
small streams which make down from the Mouts.
I also observed another species of flax today which is not so large as
the first, sildome obtaining a greater hight than 9 Inches or a foot
the stem and leaf resemble the other species but the stem is rarely
branched, bearing a single monopetallous bellshaped blue flower which
is suspended with it's limb downwards,
[Clark, July 18, 1805]
July 18th Tursday 1805
a fine morning passed a Considerable river which falls in on the Stard
Side and nearly as wide as the Missouri we call Dearbournes river after
the Sety. of war. we thought it prudent for a partey to go a head for
fear our fireing Should allarm the Indians and cause them to leave the
river and take to the mountains for Safty from their enemes who visit
them thro this rout. I deturmined to go a head with a Small partey a
few days and find the Snake Indians if possible after brackfast I took
J. Fields Potts & my Servent proceeded on. the Country So Hilley that
we gained but little of the Canoes untill in the evening I passed over
a mountain on an Indian rode by which rout I cut off Several miles of
the Meanderings of the River, the roade which passes this mountain is
wide and appears to have been dug in maney places, we Camped on a Small
run of Clear Cold water, musquitors verry troublesom the forepart of
the evening I Saw great maney Ibex. we Crossed two Streams of running
water on those Streams I saw Several Beaver dams. ordway Creek the
Countrey is Mountanious & rockey except the valey &c. which is Covered
with earth of a good quallity without timber, The timber which is
principally pitch pine is Confined to the mountains, the Small runs &
Creeks which have water running in them Contain Cotton-Willow, Willow,
& aspin. trees all Small I Saw maney fine Springs & Streams of running
water which Sink & rise alternately in the Valies the water of those
Streams are fine, those Streams which run off into the river are darned
up by the beaver from near ther mouthes up as high as I could See up
them
[Lewis, July 19, 1805]
Friday July 19th 1805
The Musquetoes are very troublesome to us as usual. this morning we set
out early and proceeded on very well tho the water appears to encrease
in volocity as we advance. the current has been strong all day and
obstructed with some rapids, tho these are but little broken by rocks
and are perfectly safe. the river deep and from 100 to 150 yds. wide. I
walked along shore today and killed an Antelope. whever we get a view
of the lofty summits of the mountains the snow presents itself, altho
we are almost suffocated in this confined vally with heat. the pine
cedar and balsum fir grow on the mountains in irregular assemleages or
spots mostly high up on their sides and summits. this evening we
entered much the most remarkable clifts that we have yet seen. these
clifts rise from the waters edge on either side perpendicularly to the
hight of 1200 feet. every object here wears a dark and gloomy aspect.
the towering and projecting rocks in many places seem ready to tumble
on us. the river appears to have forced it's way through this immence
body of solid rock for the distance of 53/4 miles and where it makes
it's exit below has thown on either side vast collumns of rocks
mountains high. the river appears to have woarn a passage just the
width of it's channel or 150 yds. it is deep from side to side nor is
ther in the 1st 3 miles of this distance a spot except one of a few
yards in extent on which a man could rest the soal of his foot. several
fine springs burst out at the waters edge from the interstices of the
rocks. it happens fortunately that altho the current is strong it is
not so much so but what it may be overcome with the oars for there is
hear no possibility of using either the cord or Setting pole. it was
late in the evening before I entered this place and was obliged to
continue my rout untill sometime after dark before I found a place
sufficiently large to encamp my small party; at length such an one
occurred on the lard. side where we found plenty of lightwood and
pichpine. this rock is a black grannite below and appears to be of a
much lighter colour above and from the fragments I take it to be flint
of a yelloish brown and light creemcolourd yellow.--from the singular
appearance of this place I called it the gates of the rocky mountains.
the mountains higher today than yesterday, saw some Bighorns and a few
Antelopes also beaver and Otter; the latter are now very plenty one of
the men killed one of them today with a setting pole. musquetoes less
troublesome than usual. we had a thundershower today about 1 P.M. which
continued about an hour and was attended with som hail. we have seen no
buffaloe since we entered the mounts. this morning early Capt. Clark
pursued his rout, saw early in the day the remains of several Indians
camps formed of willow brush which appeared to have been inhabited some
time this spring. saw where the natives had pealed the bark off the
pine trees about this same season. this the indian woman with us
informs that they do to obtain the sap and soft part of the wood and
bark for food. at 11 A.M. Capt. C. feell in with a gang of Elk of which
he killed 2. and not being able to obtain as much wood as would make a
fire substituded the dung of the buffaloe and cooked a part of their
meat on which they breakfasted and again pursueed their rout, which lay
along an old indian road. this evening they passed a hansome valley
watered by a large creek which extends itself with it's valley into the
mountain to a considerable distance. the latter part of the evening
their rout lay over a hilly and mountanous country covered with the
sharp fragments of flint which cut and bruised their feet excessively;
nor wer the prickly pear of the leveler part of the rout much less
painfull; they have now become so abundant in the open uplands that it
is impossible to avoid them and their thorns are so keen and stif that
they pearce a double thickness of dressed deers skin with ease. Capt.
C. informed me that he extracted 17 of these bryers from his feet this
evening after he encamped by the light of the fire. I have guarded or
reather fortifyed my feet against them by soaling my mockersons with
the hide of the buffaloe in parchment. he encamped on the river much
fortiegud having passed two mountains in the course of the day and
travelled about 30 miles.-
[Clark, July 19, 1805]
July 19th Fryday 1805
a find morning I proceeded on in an Indian path river verry crooked
passed over two mountains Saw Several Indian Camps which they have left
this Spring. Saw trees Peeled & found poles &c. at 11 oC I Saw a gange
of Elk as we had no provision Concluded to kill Some Killd two and
dined being oblige to Substitute dry buffalow dung in place of wood,
this evening passed over a Cream Coloured flint which roled down from
the Clifts into the bottoms, the Clifts Contain flint a dark grey Stone
& a redish brown intermixed and no one Clift is Solid rock, all the
rocks of everry description is in Small pices appears to have been
broken by Some Convulsion--passed a butifull Creek on the Std. Side
this eveng which meanders thro a butifull Vallie of great extent, I
call after Sgt Pryor the countrey on the Lard Side a high mountain Saw
Several Small rapids to day the river Keep its width and appear to be
deep, my feet is verry much brused & cut walking over the flint, &
constantly Stuck full Prickley pear thorns, I puled out 17 by the light
of the fire to night We camped on the river Same (Lard) Side Musqutors
verry troublesom.
[Lewis, July 20, 1805]
Saturday 20 h 1805.
Set out early this morning as usual, currant strong, we therefore
employ the toe rope when ever the banks permit the use of it; the water
is reather deep for the seting pole in most places. at 6 A.M. the hills
retreated from the river and the valley became wider than we have seen
it since we entered the mountains. some scattering timber on the river
and in the valley. consisting of the narrowleafed Cottonwood aspin &
pine. vas numbers of the several species of currants goosberries and
service berries; of each of these I preserved some seeds. I found a
black currant which I thought preferable in flavor to the yellow. this
currant is really a charming fruit and I am confident would be prefered
at our markets to any currant now cultivated in the U States. we killed
an Elk this morning which was very acceptable to us. through the valley
which we entered early in the morning a large creek flows from the
mountains and discharges itself into the river behind an island on
Stard. side about 15 yds. wide this we called Potts's Creek after John
Potts one of our party. about 10 A.M. we saw the smoke arrose as if the
country had been set on fire up the valley of this creek about 7 ms.
distant we were at a loss to determine whether it had been set on fire
by the natives as a signall among themselves on discovering us, as is
their custom or whether it had been set on fire by Capt. C. and party
accedentally. the first however proved to be the fact, they had
unperceived by us discovered Capt. Clark's party or mine, and had set
the plain on fire to allarm the more distant natives and fled
themselves further into the interior of the mountains. this evening we
found the skin of an Elk and part of the flesh of the anamal which
Capt. C. had left near the river at the upper side of the valley where
he assended the mountain with a note informing me of his transactions
and that he should pass the mounts which lay just above us and wate our
arrival at some convenient place on the river. the other elk which
Capt. C. had killed we could not find. about 2 in the evening we had
passed through a range of low mountains and the country bacame more
open again, tho still broken and untimbered and the bottoms not very
extensive. we encamped on the Lard. side near a spring on a high bank
the prickly pears are so abundant that we could scarcely find room to
lye. just above our camp the river is again closed in by the Mouts. on
both sides. I saw a black woodpecker today about the size of the lark
woodpecker as black as a crow. I indevoured to get a shoot at it but
could not. it is a distinct species of woodpecker; it has a long tail
and flys a good deel like the jay bird.
This morning Capt. Clark set out early and proceeded on through a
valley leaving the river about six miles to his left; he fell in with
an old Indian road which he pursued untill it struck the river about 18
miles from his camp of the last evening just above the entrance of a
large creek which we call white paint Creek. the party were so much
fortiegued with their march and their feet cut with the flint and
perced with the prickly pears untill they had become so painfull that
he proceeded but little further before he determined to encamp on the
river and wait my arrival.--Capt. C. saw a smoke today up the valley of
Pryor's creek which was no doubt caused by the natives likewise. he
left signals or signs on his rout in order to inform the indians should
they pursue his trale that we were not their enemies, but white men and
their friends.--cloth &c
[Clark, July 20, 1805]
July 20th Satturday 1805
a fine morning we proceded on thro a valley leaveing the river about 6
miles to our left and fell into an Indian roade which took us to the
river above the mo. of a Creek 18 miles The Misquetors verry troublesom
my man York nearly tired out, the bottoms of my feet blistered. I
observe a Smoke rise to our right up the Valley of the last Creek about
12 miles distant, The Cause of this Smoke I can't account for certainly
tho think it probable that the Indians have heard the Shooting of the
Partey below and Set the Praries or Valey on fire to allarm their
Camps; Supposeing our party to be a war party comeing against them, I
left Signs to Shew the Indians if they Should come on our trail that we
were not their enemeys. Camped on the river, the feet of the men with
me So Stuck with Prickley pear & cut with the Stones that they were
Scerseley able to march at a Slow gate this after noon
[Lewis, July 21, 1805]
Sunday July 21st 1805.
Set out early this morning and passed a bad rappid where the river
enters the mountain about 1 m. from our camp of last evening the Clifts
high and covered with fragments of broken rocks. the current strong; we
employed the toe rope principally, and also the pole as the river is
not now so deep but reather wider and much more rapid our progress was
therefore slow and laborious. we saw three swans this morning, which
like the geese have not yet recovered the feathers of the wing and
could not fly we killed two of them the third escaped by diving and
passed down with the current; they had no young ones with them
therefore presume they do not breed in this country these are the first
we have seen on the river for a great distance. we daily see great
numbers of gees with their young which are perfectly feathered except
the wings which are deficient in both young and old. my dog caught
several today, as he frequently dose. the young ones are very fine, but
the old gees are poor and unfit for uce. saw several of the large brown
or sandhill Crain today with their young. the young Crain is as large
as a turkey and cannot fly they are of a bright red bey colour or that
of the common deer at this season. this bird feeds on grass prinsipally
and is found in the river bottoms. the grass near the river is lofty
and green that of the hill sides and high open grounds is perfectly dry
and appears to be scorched by the heat of the sun. the country was
rough mountainous & much as that of yesterday untill towards evening
when the river entered a beautifull and extensive plain country of
about 10 or 12 miles wide which extended upwards further that the eye
could reach this valley is bounded by two nearly parallel ranges of
high mountains which have their summits partially covered with snow.
below the snowey region pine succeeds and reaches down their sides in
some parts to the plain but much the greater portion of their surfaces
is uncovered with timber and expose either a barren sterile soil
covered with dry parched grass or black and rugged rocks. the river
immediately on entering this valley assumes a different aspect and
character, it spreads to a mile and upwards in width crouded with
Islands, some of them large, is shallow enough for the use of the
seting pole in almost every part and still more rappid than before;
it's bottom is smooth stones and some large rocks as it has been since
we have entered the mountains. the grass in these extensive bottoms is
green and fine, about 18 inches or 2 feet high. the land is a black
rich loam and appears very fertile. we encamped in this beatiful valley
on the Lard. side the party complain of being much fatiegued with this
days travel. we killed one deer today.--This morning we passed a bold
creek 28 yds. wide which falls in on Stard. side. it has a handsome and
an extensive valley. this we called Pryor's Creek after Sergt. (John)
Pryor one of our party. I also saw two fesants today of a dark brown
colour much larger than the phesant of the U States.
this morning Capt. Clark having determined to hunt and wait my arrival
somewhere about his preset station was fearfull that some indians might
still be on the river above him sufficiently near to hear the report of
his guns and therefore proceeded up, the river about three miles and
not finding any indians nor discovering any fresh appearance of them
returned about four miles below and fixed his camp near the river;
after refreshing themselves with a few hours rest they set out in
different directions to hunt. Capt C. killed a buck and Fields a buck
and doe. he caught a young curlooe which was nearly feathered. the
musquetoes were equally as troublesome to them as to ourselves this
evening; tho some hours after dark the air becomes so cold that these
insects disappear. the men are all fortunately supplyed with musquetoe
biers otherwise it would be impossible for them to exist under the
fatiegues which they daily encounter without their natural rest which
they could not obtain for those tormenting insects if divested of their
biers. timber still extreemly scant on the river but there is more in
this valley than we have seen since we entered the mountains; the
creeks which fall into the river are better supplyed with this article
than the river itself.-
we saw a number of trout today since the river has become more shallow;
also caught a fish of a white colour on the belly and sides and of a
bluish cast on the back which had been accedentally wounded by a
setting pole. it had a long pointed mouth which opened somewhat like
the shad.
[Clark, July 21, 1805]
July 21st Sunday 1805
a fine morning our feet So brused and Cut that I deturmined to delay
for the Canoes, & if possible kill Some meat by the time they arrived,
all the Creeks which fall into the Missouri on the Std. Side Since
entering the Mountains have extencive Valies of open Plain. the river
bottoms Contain nothing larger than a Srub untill above the last Creek
the Creeks & runs have timber on them generally, the hills or mountains
are in Some places thickly covered with pine & Cedar &c. &c. I
proceeded on about 3 miles this morning finding no fresh Indian Sign
returned down the river four miles and Camped, turned out to hunt for
Some meat, which if we are Suckessfull will be a Seasonable Supply for
the partey assending. emence quantities of Sarvice buries, yellow, red,
Purple & black Currents ripe and Superior to any I ever tasted
particularly the yellow & purple kind. Choke Cheries are Plenty; Some
Goose buries--The wild rose Continue the Willow more abundant no Cotton
wood of the Common kind Small birds are plenty, Some Deer, Elk, Goats,
and Ibex; no buffalow in the Mountains.
Those mountains are high and a great perportion of them rocky Vallies
fertile I observe on the highest pinicals of Some of the mountains to
the West Snow lying in Spots Some Still further North are covered with
Snow and cant be Seen from this point The Winds in those mountains are
not Settled generally with the river, to day the wind blow hard from
the West at the Camp. The Missouri Continus its width the Current
Strong and Crouded with little Islands and Cose graveley bars; but
little fine Sand the Chanel generally a Corse gravel or Soft mud.
Musquetors & Knats verry troublesom. I killed a Buck, and J. Fields
killed a Buck and Doe this evening. Cought a young Curlough.
[Lewis, July 22, 1805]
Monday July 22cd 1805.
We set out early as usual. The river being divided into such a number
of channels by both large and small Island that I found it impossible
to lay it down correctly following one channel only in a canoe and
therefore walked on shore took the general courses of the river and
from the rising grounds took a view of the Islands and it's different
channels which I laid don in conformity thereto on my chart. there
being but little timber to obstruct my view I could see it's various
meanders very satisfactorily. I passed though a large Island which I
found a beautifull level and fertile plain about 10 feet above the
surface of the water and never overflown. on this Island I met with
great quantities of a smal onion about the size of a musquit ball and
some even larger; they were white crisp and well flavored I geathered
about half a bushel of them before the canoes arrived. I halted the
party for breakfast and the men also geathered considerable quantities
of those onions. it's seed had just arrived to maturity and I gathered
a good quantity of it. This appears to be a valuable plant inasmuch as
it produces a large quantity to the squar foot and bears with ease the
rigor of this climate, and withall I think it as pleasantly flavored as
any species of that root I ever tasted. I called this beatifull and
fertile island after this plant Onion Island. here I passed over to the
stard. shore where the country was higher and ascended the river to the
entrance of a large creek which discharges itself into the Missouri on
the Stard. side. it is composed of three pretty considerable creeks
which unite in a beautifull and extensive vally a few miles before it
discharges itself into the river. while wateing for the canoes to
arrive I killed an otter which sunk to the bottom on being shot, a
circumstance unusual with that anamal. the water was about 8 feet deep
yet so clear that I could see it at the bottom; I swam in and obtained
it by diving. I halted the party here for dinner; the canoes had taken
different channels through these islands and it was sometime before
they all came up. I placed my thermometer in a good shade as was my
custom about 4 P.M. and after dinner set out without it and had
proceeded near a mile before I recollected it I sent Sergt. Ordway back
for it, he found it and brought it on. the murcury stood at 80 a. 0
this is the warmest day except one which we have experienced this
summer. The Indian woman recognizes the country and assures us that
this is the river on which her relations live, and that the three forks
are at no great distance. this peice of information has cheered the
sperits of the party who now begin to console themselves with the
anticipation of shortly seeing the head of the missouri yet unknown to
the civilized world. the large creek which we passed on Stard. 15 yds.
we call white Earth Creek from the circumstance of the natives
procuring a white paint on this crek.--Saw many gees, crams, and small
birds common to the plains, also a few phesants and a species of small
curlooe or plover of a brown colour which I first met with near the
entrance of Smith's river but they are so shy and watchfull there is no
possibility of geting a shoot at them it is a different kind from any
heretofore discribed and is about the size of the yellow leged plover
or jack Curlooe. both species of the willow that of the broad leaf and
narrow leaf still continue, the sweet willow is very scarce. the rose
bush, small honesuckle, the pulpy leafed thorn, southernwood, sage Box
alder narrow leafed cottonwood, red wod, a species of sumac are all
found in abundance as well as the red and black goosberries, service
berries, choke cherries and the currants of four distinct colours of
black, yellow, red and perple. the cherries are not yet ripe. the bear
appear to feed much on the currants. late this evening we arrived at
Capt. Carks camp on the stard. side of the river; we took them on board
with the meat they had collected and proceeded a short distance and
encamped on an Island Capt. Clark's party had killed a deer and an Elk
today and ourselves one deer and an Antelope only. altho Capt C. was
much fatiegued his feet yet blistered and soar he insisted on pursuing
his rout in the morning nor weould he consent willingly to my releiving
him at that time by taking a tour of the same kind. finding him anxious
I readily consented to remain with the canoes; he ordered Frazier and
Jo. & Reubin Filds to hold themselves in readiness to accompany him in
the morning. Sharbono was anxious to accompany him and was accordingly
permitted. the musquetoes and knats more than usually troublesome to us
this evening.-
[Clark, July 22, 1805]
July 22d Monday 1805
a fine morning wind from the S. E. the last night verry cold, my
blanket being Small I lay on the grass & Covered with it. I opened the
bruses & blisters of my feet which caused them to be painfull
dispatched all the men to hunt in the bottom for Deer, deturmined my
Self to lay by & nurs my feet. haveing nothing to eat but venison and
Currents, I find my Self much weaker than when I left the Canoes and
more inclined to rest & repose to day. These men were not Suckcessfull
in hunting killed only one Deer Capt Lewis & the Party arvd. at 4
oClock & we all proceeded on a Short distance and Camped on an Island
the Musquitors verry troublesom this evening G Drewyer not knowing the
place we Camped Continued on up the river. I deturmined to proceed on
in pursute of the Snake Indians on tomorrow and directed Jo Rubin
Fields Frasure to get ready to accompany me. Shabono, our interpreter
requested to go, which was granted &c. In my absence the hunters had
killed Some Deer & a Elk, one fusee found &c. &c.
[Lewis, July 23, 1805]
Tuesday July 23rd 1805.
Set out early as usual; Capt. Clark left us with his little party of 4
men and continued his rout on the Stard. side of the river. about 10
OCk. A M. we came up with Drewyer who had seperated from us yesterday
evening and lay out all night not being able to find where we had
encamped. he had killed 5 deer which we took on board and continued our
rout. the river is still divided by a great number of islands, it
channels sometimes seperating to the distance of 3 miles; the current
very rapid with a number of riffles; the bed gravel and smooth stones;
the banks low and of rich loam in the bottoms; some low bluffs of
yellow and red clay with a hard red slate stone intermixed. the bottoms
are wide and but scantily timbered; the underbrush very thick
consisting of the narrow & broad leafed willow rose and Currant bushes
principally. high plains succeeds the river bottoms and extend back on
either side to the base of the mountains which are from 8 to 12 miles
assunder, high, rocky, some small pine and Cedar on them and ly
parallel with the river. passed a large creek on Lard. side 20 yds.
wide which after meandering through a beautifull and extensive bottom
for several miles nearly parallel with the river discharges itself
opposite to a large cluster of islands which from their number I called
the 10 islands and the creek Whitehous's Creek, after Josph. Whitehouse
one of the party. saw a great abundance of the common thistles; also a
number of the wild onions of which we collected a further supply. there
is a species of garlic also which grows on the high lands with a flat
leaf now green and in bloe but is strong tough and disagreeable. found
some seed of the wild flax ripe which I preserved; this plant grows in
great abundance in these bottoms. I halted rearther early for dinner
today than usual in order to dry some articles which had gotten wet in
several of the canoes. I ordered the canoes to hoist their small flags
in order that should the indians see us they might discover that we
were not Indians, nor their enemies. we made great uce of our seting
poles and cords the uce of both which the river and banks favored. most
of our small sockets were lost, and the stones were so smooth that the
points of their poles sliped in such manner that it increased the
labour of navigating the canoes very considerably, I recollected a
parsel of giggs which I had brought on, and made the men each atatch
one of these to the lower ends of their poles with strong wire, which
answered the desired purpose. we saw Antelopes Crain gees ducks beaver
and Otter. we took up four deer which Capt. Clark & party had killed
and left near the river. he pursued his rout untill late in the evening
and encamped on the bank of the river 25 ms. above our encampment of
the last evening; he followed an old indian road which lyes along the
river on the stard side Capt. saw a number of Antelopes, and one herd
of Elk. also much sign of the indians but all of ancient date. I saw
the bull rush and Cattail flag today.
I saw a black snake today about two feet long the Belly of which was as
black as any other part or as jet itself. it had 128 scuta on the
belley 63 on the tail.
[Clark, July 23, 1805]
July 23rd Tuesday 1805
a fair morning wind from the South. I Set out by land at 6 miles
overtook G Drewyer who had killed a Deer. we killed in the Same bottom
4 deer & a antelope & left them on the river bank for the Canoes
proceeded on an Indian roade through a wider Vallie which the Missouri
Passes about 25 miles & Camped on the bank of the river, High mountains
on either Side of the Vallie Containing Scattering Pine & Cedar Some
Small Cotton willow willow &c. on the Islands & bank of the river I Saw
no fresh Sign of Indians to day Great number of antelopes Some Deer & a
large Gangue of Elk
[Lewis, July 24, 1805]
Wednesday July 24th 1805.
Set out at sunrise; the current very strong; passed a remarkable bluff
of a crimson coloured earth on Stard. intermixed with Stratas of black
and brick red slate. the valley through which the river passed today is
much as that of yesterday nor is there any difference in the appearance
of the mountains, they still continue high and seem to rise in some
places like an amphatheater one rang above another as they receede from
the river untill the most distant and lofty have their tops clad with
snow. the adjacent mountains commonly rise so high as to conceal the
more distant and lofty mountains from our view. I fear every day that
we shall meet with some considerable falls or obstruction in the river
notwithstanding the information of the Indian woman to the contrary who
assures us that the river continues much as we see it. I can scarcely
form an idea of a river runing to great extent through such a rough
mountainous country without having it's stream intercepted by some
difficult and gangerous rappids or falls. we daily pass a great number
of small rappids or riffles which decend one to or 3 feet in 150 yards
but they are rarely incommoded with fixed or standing rocks and altho
strong rappid water are nevertheless quite practicable & by no means
dangerous. we saw many beaver and some otter today; the former dam up
the small channels of the river between the islands and compell the
river in these parts to make other channels; which as soon as it has
effected that which was stoped by the beaver becomes dry and is filled
up with mud sand gravel and drift wood. the beaver is then compelled to
seek another spot for his habitation wher he again erects his dam. thus
the river in many places among the clusters of islands is constantly
changing the direction of such sluices as the beaver are capable of
stoping or of 20 yds. in width. this anamal in that way I beleive to be
very instrumental in adding to the number of islands with which we find
the river crouded. we killed one deer today and found a goat or
Antelope which had been left by Capt. Clark. we saw a large bear but
could not get a shoot at him. we also saw a great number of Crams &
Antelopes, some gees and a few red-headed ducks the small bird of the
plains and curloos still abundant. we observed a great number of snakes
about the water of a brown uniform colour, some black, and others
speckled on the abdomen and striped with black and brownish yellow on
the back and sides. the first of these is the largest being about 4
feet long, the second is of that kind mentioned yesterday, and the last
is much like the garter snake of our country and about it's size. none
of these species are poisonous I examined their teeth and fund them
innosent. they all appear to be fond of the water, to which they fly
for shelter immediately on being pursued.--we saw much sign of Elk but
met with none of them. from the appearance of bones and excrement of
old date the buffaloe sometimes straggle into this valley; but there is
no fresh sighn of them and I begin think that our harrvest of white
puddings is at an end, at least untill our return to the buffaloe
country. our trio of pests still invade and obstruct us on all
occasions, these are the Musquetoes eye knats and prickley pears, equal
to any three curses that ever poor Egypt laiboured under, except the
Mahometant yoke. the men complain of being much fortiegued, their
labour is excessively great. I occasionly encourage them by assisting
in the labour of navigating the canoes, and have learned to push a
tolerable good pole in their fraize. This morning Capt. Clark set out
early and pursued the Indian road whih took him up a creek some miles
abot 10 A.M. he discovered a horse about six miles distant on his left,
he changed his rout towards the horse, on approaching him he found the
horse in fine order but so wild he could not get within less than
several hundred paces of him. he still saw much indian sign but none of
recent date. from this horse he directed his course obliquely to the
river where on his arrival he killed a deer and dined. in this wide
valley where he met with the horse he passed five handsome streams, one
of which only had timber another some willows and much stoped by the
beaver. after dinner he continued his rout along the river upwards and
encamped having traveled about 30 mes.
[Clark, July 24, 1805]
July 24th Wednesday 1805
a fine day wind from the N W. I proceeded on up a Creek on the
direction of the Indian road at 10 oClock discovered a horse 6 miles to
my left towards the river as I approached the horse found him fat and
verry wild we could not get near him, we changed our Direction to the
river for water haveing previously Crossed 5 handsom Streams in one
Vallie one only had any timber on it one other Willows only & a number
of beaver Dams. when I Struck the river turned down to kill a Deer
which we dined on & proceeded on up the river a fiew miles an Campd. on
the river. the river much like it was yesterday. the mountains on
either Side appear like the hills had fallen half down & turned Side
upwards the bottoms narrow and no timber a fiew bushes only.
[Lewis, July 25, 1805]
Thursday July 25th 1805.
Set out at an early hour and proceeded on tolerably well the water
still strong and some riffles as yesterday. the country continues much
the same as the two preceeding days. in the forenoon we saw a large
brown bear on an island but he retreated immediately to the main shore
and ran off before we could get in reach of him. they appear to be more
shy here than on the Missouri below the mountains. we saw some
antelopes of which we killed one. these anamals appear now to have
collected again is small herds several females with their young and one
or two males compose the herd usually. some males are yet soletary or
two perhaps together scattered over the plains which they seen
invariably to prefer to the woodlands. if they happen accedentaly in
the woodlands and are allarmed they run immediately to the plains,
seeming to plaise a just confidence in their superior fleetness and
bottom. we killed a couple of young gees which are very abundant and
fine; but as they are but small game to subsist a party on of our
strength I have forbid the men shooting at them as it waists a
considerable quantity of amunition and delays our progress. we passed
Capt. Clark's encampment of the 23rd inst. the face of the country &
anamal and vegatable productions were the same as yesterday, untill
late in the evening, when the valley appeared to termineate and the
river was again hemned in on both sides with high caiggy and rocky
clifts. soon after entering these hills or low mountains we passed a
number of fine bold springs which burst out underneath the Lard. clifts
near the edge of the water; they wer very cold and freestone water. we
passed a large Crk. today in the plain country, 25 yds. wide, which
discharges itself on the Stard. side; it is composed of five streams
which unite in the plain at no great distance from the river and have
their souces in the Mts. this stream we called Gass's Creek. after
Sergt. Patric Gass one of our party.--two rapids near the large spring
we passed this evening were the worst we have seen since that we passed
on entering the rocky Mountain; they were obstructed with sharp pointed
rocks, ranges of which extended quite across the river. the clifts are
formed of a lighter coloured stone than those below I obseve some
limestone also in the bed of the river which seem to have been brought
down by the current as they are generally small and woarn smooth.--This
morning Capt. Clark set out early and at the distance of a few miles
arrived at the three forks of the Missouri, here he found the plains
recently birnt on the stard. side, and the track of a horse which
appeared to have passed only about four or five days. after taking
breakfast of some meat which they had brought with them, examined the
rivers, and written me a note informing me of his intended rout, he
continued on up the North fork, which though not larger than the middle
fork, boar more to the West, and of course more in the direction we
were anxious to pursue. he ascended this stream about 25 miles on
Stard. side, and encamped, much fatiegued, his feet blistered and
wounded with the prickley pear thorns. Charbono gave out, one of his
ankles failed him and he was unable to proceede any further.--I
observed that the rocks which form the clifts on this part of the river
appear as if they had been undermined by the river and by their weight
had seperated from the parent hill and tumbled on their sides, the
stratas of rock of which they are composed lying with their edges up;
others not seperated seem obliquely depressed on the side next the
river as if they had sunk down to fill the cavity which had been formed
by the washing and wearing of the river. I have observed a red as well
as a yellow species of goosberry which grows on the rocky Clifts in
open places of a swetish pine like flavor, first observed in the
neighbourhood of the falls; at least the yellow species was first
observed there. the red differs from it in no particular except it's
colour and size being somewhat larger; it is a very indifferent fruit,
but as they form a variety of the native fruits of this country I
preserved some of their seeds. musquetoes and knats troublesome as
usual.
[Clark, July 25, 1805]
July 25th Thursday 1805
a fine morning we proceeded on a fiew miles to the three forks of the
Missouri those three forks are nearly of a Size, the North fork appears
to have the most water and must be Considered as the one best
calculated for us to assend middle fork is quit as large about 90 yds.
wide. The South fork is about 70 yds wide & falls in about 400 yards
below the midle fork. those forks appear to be verry rapid & Contain
Some timber in their bottoms which is verry extincive,--on the North
Side the Indians have latterly Set the Praries on fire, the Cause I
can't account for. I Saw one horse track going up the river about four
or 5 days past. after Brackfast (which we made on the ribs of a Buck
killed yesterday), I wrote a note informing Capt Lewis the rout I
intended to take, and proeeded on up the main North fork thro a vallie,
the day verry hot about 6 or 8 miles up the North fork a Small rapid
river falls in on the Lard Side which affords a great Deel of water and
appears to head in the Snow mountains to the S W. this little river
falls into the Missouri by three mouthes, haveing Seperated after it
arrives in the river Bottoms, and Contains as also all the water
courses in this quarter emence number of Beaver & orter maney thousand
enhabit the river & Creeks near the 3 forks (Pholosiphie's River)--We
Campd on the Same Side we assended Starboard 20 miles on a direct line
up the N. fork. Shabono our intrepreter nearly tired one of his ankles
falling him--The bottoms are extencive and tolerable land Covered with
tall grass & prickley pears The hills & mountains are high Steep &
rockey. The river verry much divided by Islands Some Elk Bear & Deer
and Some Small timber on the Islands. Great quantities of Currents,
red, black, yellow, Purple, also Mountain Currents which grow on the
Sides of Clifts; inferior in taste to the others haveing Sweet pineish
flaver and are red & yellow, Choke Cheries, Boin roche, and the red
buries also abound--musquitors verry trouble Som untill the mountain
breeze Sprung up which was a little after night.
[Lewis, July 26, 1805]
Friday July 26th 1805.
Set out early this morning as usual current strong with frequent
riffles; employ the cord and seting poles. the oars scarcely ever being
used except to pass the river in order to take advantage of the shore
and cur-rent. at the distance of 33/4 m. passed the entrance of a large
Creek 15 yds. wide which discharges itself on Lard. near the center of
a Lard. bend it is a bold runing stream this we called Howard's Creek
after Thomas P. Howard one of our party. at the distance of one mile
further we passed the entrance of a small run which falls in just above
a rocky clift on Lard. here the hills or reather mountains again recede
from the river and the valley again widens to the extent of several
miles with wide and fertile bottom lands. covered with grass and in
many places a fine terf of greenswoard. the high lands are thin meagre
soil covered with dry low sedge and a species of grass also dry the
seeds of which are armed with a long twisted hard beard at the upper
extremity while the lower point is a sharp subulate firm point beset at
it's base with little stiff bristles standing with their points in a
contrary direction to the subulate point to which they answer as a barb
and serve also to pres it forward when onece entered a small distance.
these barbed seed penetrate our mockersons and leather legings and give
us great pain untill they are removed. my poor dog suffers with them
excessively, he is constantly hinting and scratching himself as if in a
rack of pain. the prickly pear also grow here as abundantly as usual.
there is another species of the prickly pear of a globular form,
composed of an assemblage of little conic leaves springing from a
common root to which their small points are attached as a common center
and the base of the cone forms the apex of the leaf which is garnished
with a circular range of sharp thorns quite as stif and more keen than
the more common species with the flat leaf, like the Cockeneal plant.
on entering this open valley I saw the snowclad tops of distant
mountains before us. the timber and mountains much as heretofore. saw a
number of beaver today and some otter, killed one of the former, also 4
deer; found a deer's skin which had been left by Capt. C. with a note
informing me of his having met with a horse but had seen no fresh
appearance of the Indians. the river in the valley is from 2 to 250
yds. wide and crouded with Islands, in some places it is 3/4 of a mile
wide including islands. were it passed the hills it was from 150 to 200
yds. the banks are still low but never overflow. one of the men brought
me an indian bow which he found, it was made of cedar and about 2 F. 9
Inh. in length. it had nothing remarkable in it's form being much such
as is used by the Mandans Minetares &c. This morning Capt. Clark left
Sharbono and Joseph Fields at the camp of last evening and proceeded up
the river about 12 miles to the top of a mountain from whence he had an
extensive view of the valley of the river upwards and of a large creek
which flowed into it on Std. side. not meeting with any fresh
appearance of Indians he determined to return and examine the middle
fork of the missouri and meet me by the time he expected me to arrive
at the forks. he returned down the mountain by the way of an old Indian
road which led through a deep hollow of the mountain facing the south
the day being warm and the road unshaded by timber he suffered
excessively with heat and the want of water, at length he arrived at a
very cold spring, at which he took the precaution of weting his feet
head and hands before drank but notwithstanding this precaution he soon
felt the effects of the water. he felt himself very unwell shortly
after but continued his march rejoined Sharbono and Fields where the
party eat of a fawn which Jo. Fields had killed in their absence Capt.
C. was so unwell that he had no inclination to eat. after a short
respite he resumed his march pass the North fork at a large island;
here Charbono was very near being swept away by the current and cannot
swim, Capt. C however risqued him and saved his life. Capt. C.
continued his march to a small river which falls into the North fork
some miles above the junction of the 3 forks it being the distance of
about four miles from his camp of last evening here finding himself
still more unwell he determined to encamp. they killed two brown or
Grisley bear this evening on the island where they passed the N. fork
of the Missouri. this stream is much divided by islands and it's
current rapid and much as that of the missouri where we are and is
navigable.-