Monday June 10th 1805.
The day being fair and fine we dryed all our baggage and merchandize.
Shields renewed the main Spring of my air gun we have been much
indebted to the ingenuity of this man on many occasions; without having
served any regular apprenticeship to any trade, he makes his own tools
principally and works extreemly well in either wood or metal, and in
this way has been extreenely servicable to us, as well as being a good
hunter and an excellent waterman. in order to guard against accedents
we thout it well to conceal some ammunicion here and accordingly buryed
a tin cannester of 4 lbs. of powder and an adequate quantity of lead
near our tent; a cannester of 6 lbs. lead and an ax in a thicket up the
S. Fork three hundred yards distant from the point. we concluded that
we still could spare more amunition for this deposit Capt. Clark was
therefore to make a further deposit in the morning, in addition to one
Keg of 20 lbs. and an adequate proportion of lead which had been laid
by to be buryed in the large Cash. we now scelected the articles to be
deposited in this cash which consisted of 2 best falling axes, one
auger, a set of plains, some files, blacksmiths bellowses and hammers
Stake tongs &c. 1 Keg of flour, 2 Kegs of parched meal, 2 Kegs of Pork,
1 Keg of salt, some chissels, a cooper's Howel, some tin cups, 2
Musquets, 3 brown bear skins, beaver skins, horns of the bighorned
anamal, a part of the men's robes clothing and all their superfluous
baggage of every discription, and beaver traps.--we drew up the red
perogue into the middle of a small Island at the entrance of Maria's
river, and secured and made her fast to the trees to prevent the high
floods from carrying her off put my brand on several trees standing
near her, and covered her with brush to shelter her from the effects of
the sun. At 3 P.M. we had a hard wind from the S. W. which continued
about an hour attended with thunder and rain. as soon as the shower had
passed over we drew out our canoes, corked, repared and loaded them. I
still feel myself somewhat unwell with the disentary, but determined to
set out in the morning up the South fork or Missouri leaving Capt.
Clark to compleat the deposit and follow me by water with the party;
accordingly gave orders to Drewyer, Joseph Fields, Gibson and Goodrich
to hold themselves in readiness to accompany me in the morning.
Sah-cah-gah, we a, our Indian woman is very sick this evening; Capt. C.
blead her. the night was cloudy with some rain.
I saw a small bird today which I do not recollect ever having seen
before. it is about the size of the blue thrush or catbird, and it's
contour not unlike that bird. the beak is convex, moderately curved,
black, smoth, and large in proportion to its size. the legs were black,
it had four toes of the same colour on eah foot, and the nails appeared
long and somewhat in form like the tallons of the haulk, the eye black
and proportionably large. a bluish brown colour occupyed the head,
neck, and back, the belly was white; the tail was reather long in
proportion and appeared to be composed of feathers of equal length of
which a part of those in the center were white the others black. the
wings were long and were also varigated with white and black. on each
side of the head from the beak back to the neck a small black stripe
extended imbrasing the eye. it appeared to be very busy in catching
insects which I presume is it's usual food; I found the nest of this
little bird, the female which differed but little in size or plumage
from the male was seting on four eggs of a pale blue colour with small
black freckles or dots.--the bee martin or Kingbird is common to this
country tho there are no bees in this country, nor have we met with a
honey bee since we passed the entrance of the Osage river.
[Clark, June 10, 1805]
June 10th Monday 1805
a fine day dry all our articles arrange our baggage burry Some Powder &
lead in the point, Some Lead a canister of Powder & an ax in a thicket
in the point at Some distance, buried on this day and in the large
cache or whole we buried on the up land near the S. fork 1 mile up S.
S. we drew up our large Perogue into the middle of a Small Island in
the North fork and covered her with bushes after makeing her fast to
the trees, branded several trees to prevent the Indians injureing her,
at 3 oClock we had hard wind from the S. W. thunder and rain for about
an hour after which we repaired & Corked the Canoes & loadded them--Sah
cah gah, we a our Indian woman verry Sick I blead her, we deturmined to
assend the South fork, and one of us, Capt. Lewis or My self to go by
land as far as the Snow mountains S. 20° W. and examine the river &
Countrey Course & to be Certain of our assending the proper river, Capt
Lewis inclines to go by land on this expedition, according Selects 4
men George Drewyer, Gibson, Jo. Fields & S. Gutrich to accompany him &
deturmine to Set out in the morning--The after noon or night Cloudy
Some rain, river riseing a little.
[Lewis, June 11, 1805]
Tuesday June 11th 1805
This morning I felt much better, but somewhat weakened by my disorder.
at 8 A.M. I swung my pack, and set forward with my little party.
proceeded to the point where Rose River a branch Maria's River
approaches the Missouri so nearly. from this hight we discovered a herd
of Elk on the Missouri just above us to which we desended and soon
killed four of them. we butchered them and hung up the meat and skins
in view of the river in order that the party might get them. I
determined to take dinner here, but before the meal was prepared I was
taken with such violent pain in the intestens that I was unable to
partake of the feast of marrowbones. my pain still increased and
towards evening was attended with a high fever; finding myself unable
to march, I determined to prepare a camp of some willow boughs and
remain all night. having brought no medecine with me I resolved to try
an experiment with some simples; and the Choke cherry which grew
abundanly in the bottom first struck my attention; I directed a parsel
of the small twigs to be geathered striped of their leaves, cut into
pieces of about 2 Inches in length and boiled in water untill a strong
black decoction of an astringent bitter tact was produced; at sunset I
took a point of this decoction and abut an hour after repeated the dze
by 10 in the evening I was entirely releived from pain and in fact
every symptom of the disorder forsook me; my fever abated, a gentle
perspiration was produced and I had a comfortable and refreshing nights
rest. Goodrich who is remarkably fond of fishing caught several douzen
fish of two different species--one about 9 inches long of white colour
round and in form and fins resembles the white chub common to the
Potomac; this fish has a smaller head than the Chubb and the mouth is
beset both above and below with a rim of fine sharp teeth; the eye
moderately large, the puple dark and the iris which is narrow is of a
yellowish brown colour, they bite at meat or grasshoppers. this is a
soft fish, not very good, tho the flesh is of a fine white colour. the
other species is precisely the form and about the size of the well
known fish called the Hickory Shad or old wife, with the exception of
the teeth, a rim of which garnish the outer edge of both the upper and
lower jaw; the tonge and pallet are also beset with long sharp teeth
bending inwards, the eye of this fish is very large, and the iris of a
silvery colour and wide. of the 1st species we had caught some few
before our arrival at the entrance of Maria's river, but of the last we
had seen none untill we reached that place and took them in Missouri
above it's junction with that river. the latter kind are much the best,
and do not inhabit muddy water; the white cat continue as high as the
entrance of Maria's R, but those we have caught above Mandans never
excede 6 lbs. I beleive that there are but few in this part of the
Missouri. saw an abundance of game today even in our short march of 9
miles.
[Clark, June 11, 1805]
June 11th Tuesday 1805
a fair morning wind from the S W. hard we burry 1 keg in the Cash & 2
Canisters of Powder in 2 seperate places all with Lead; & in the Cash 2
axes, auger, Plains, 1 Keg flour, 2 Kegs Pork, 2 Kegs Parchd meal 1 Keg
salt, files Chisel, 2 Musquits, Some tin cups, bowel, 3 bear Skins,
Beaver Skins, Horns, & parts of the mens robes & clothes.--Beaver Traps
and blacksmith's tools. Capt. Lewis Set out at 8 oClock we delayed to
repare Some guns out of order & complete our deposit, which took us the
day the evening fair and fine wind from the N. W. after night it became
cold & the wind blew hard, the Indian woman verry Sick, I blead her
which appeared to be of great Service to her both rivers riseing fast
[Lewis, June 12, 1805]
Wednesday June 12th 1805.
This morning I felt myself quite revived, took another portion of my
decoction and set out at sunrise. I now boar out from the river in
order to avoid the steep ravines of the river which usually make out in
the plain to the distance of one or two miles; after gaining the leavel
plain my couse was a litte to the West of S. W.--having traveled about
12 miles by 9 in the morning, the sun became warm, and I boar a little
to the south in order to gain the river as well to obtain water to
allay my thirst as to kill something for breakfast; for the plain
through which we had been passing possesses no water and is so level
that we cannot approach the buffaloe within shot before they discover
us and take to flight. we arrived at the river about 10 A.M. having
traveled about 15 m. at this place there is a handsom open bottom with
some cottonwood timber, here we met with two large bear, and killed
them boath at the first fire, a circumstance which I beleive has never
happend with the party in killing the brown bear before. we dressed the
bear, breakfasted on a part of one of them and hung the meat and skins
on the trees out of the reach of the wolves. I left a note on a stick
near the river for Capt. Clark, informing him of my progress &c.--after
refreshing ourselves abut 2 hours we again ascended the bluffs and
gained the high plain; saw a great number of burrowing squirrels in the
plains today. also wolves Antelopes mule deer and immence herds of
buffaloe. we passed a ridge of land considerably higher than the
adjacent plain on either side, from this hight we had a most beatifull
and picturesk view of the Rocky mountains which wer perfectly covered
with Snow and reaching from S. E. to the N. of N. W.--they appear to be
formed of several ranges each succeeding range rising higher than the
preceding one untill the most distant appear to loose their snowey tops
in the clouds; this was an august spectacle and still rendered more
formidable by the recollection that we had them to pass. we traveled
about twelve miles when we agin struck the Missoury at a handsome
little bottom of Cottonwood timber and altho the sun had not yet set I
felt myself somewhat weary being weakened I presume by late disorder;
and therfore determined to remain here during the ballance of the day
and night, having marched about 27 miles today. on our way in the
evening we had killed a buffaloe, an Antelope and three mule deer, and
taken a sufficient quantity of the best of the flesh of these anamals
for three meals, which we had brought with us. This evening I ate very
heartily and after pening the transactions of the day amused myself
catching those white fish mentioned yesterday; they are here in great
abundance I caught upwards of a douzen in a few minutes; they bit most
freely at the melt of a deer which goodrich had brought with him for
the purpose of fishing.
The narrow leafed cottonwood grows here in common with the other
species of the same tree with a broad leaf or that which has
constituted the major part of the timber of the Missouri from it's
junction with the Mississippi to this place. The narrow leafed
cottonwood differs only from the other in the shape of it's leaf and
greater thickness of it's bark. the leaf is a long oval acutely
pointed, about 21/2 or 3 Inches long and from 3/4 to an inch in width;
it is thick, sometimes slightly grooved or channeled; margin slightly
serrate; the upper disk of a common green while the under disk is of a
whiteish green; the leaf is smoth. the beaver appear to be extremely
fond of this tree and even seem to scelect it from among the other
species of Cottonwood, probably from it's affording a deeper and softer
bark than the other species.--saw some sign of the Otter as well as
beaver near our camp, also a great number of tracks of the brown bear;
these fellows leave a formidable impression in the mud or sand I
measured one this evening which was eleven inches long exclusive of the
tallons and seven and 1/4 in width.
[Clark, June 12, 1805]
June 12th 1805 Wednesday
last night was Clear and Cold, this morning fair we Set out at 8 oClock
& proceeded on verry well wind from the S. W. The interpreters wife
verry Sick So much So that I move her into the back part of our Covered
part of the Perogue which is Cool, her own situation being a verry hot
one in the bottom of the Perogue exposed to the Sun--Saw emence No. of
Swallows in the 1st bluff on the Lard. Side, water verry Swift, the
bluff are blackish Clay & Coal for about 80 feet. the earth above that
for 30 or 40 feet is a brownish yellow, a number of bars of corse
gravil and Stones of different Shape & Size &c. Saw a number of rattle
Snakes to day one of the men cought one by the head in Catch'g hold of
a bush on which his head lay reclined three canoes were in great danger
today one diped water, another was near turning over &c. at 2 oClock P
M a fiew drops of rain I walked thro a point and killed a Buck Elk &
Deer, and we camped on the Stard Side, the Interpreters woman verry
Sick worse than She has been. I give her medison one man have a fellon
riseing on his hand one other with the Tooth ake has taken cold in the
jaw &c.
[Lewis, June 13, 1805]
Thursday June 13th 1805.
This morning we set out about sunrise after taking breakfast off our
venison and fish. we again ascended the hills of the river and gained
the level country. the country through which we passed for the first
six miles tho more roling than that we had passed yesterday might still
with propryety he deemed a level country; our course as yesterday was
generally S W. the river from the place we left it appeared to make a
considerable bend to the South. from the extremity of this roling
country I overlooked a most beatifull and level plain of great extent
or at least 50 or sixty miles; in this there were infinitely more
buffaloe than I had ever before witnessed at a view. nearly in the
direction I had been travling or S. W. two curious mountains presented
themselves of square figures, the sides rising perpendicularly to the
hight of 250 feet and appeared to be formed of yellow clay; their tops
appeared to be level plains; these inaccessible hights appeared like
the ramparts of immence fortifications; I have no doubt but with very
little assistance from art they might be rendered impregnable. fearing
that the river boar to the South and that I might pass the falls if
they existed between this an the snowey mountains I altered my course
nealy to the South leaving those insulated hills to my wright and
proceeded through the plain; I sent Feels on my right and Drewyer and
Gibson on my left with orders to kill some meat and join me at the
river where I should halt for dinner. I had proceded on this course
about two miles with Goodrich at some distance behind me whin my ears
were saluted with the agreeable sound of a fall of water and advancing
a little further I saw the spray arrise above the plain like a collumn
of smoke which would frequently dispear again in an instant caused I
presume by the wind which blew pretty hard from the S. W. I did not
however loose my direction to this point which soon began to make a
roaring too tremendious to be mistaken for any cause short of the great
falls of the Missouri. here I arrived about 12 OClock having traveled
by estimate about 15 Miles. I hurryed down the hill which was about 200
feet high and difficult of access, to gaze on this sublimely grand
specticle. I took my position on the top of some rocks about 20 feet
high opposite the center of the falls. this chain of rocks appear once
to have formed a part of those over which the waters tumbled, but in
the course of time has been seperated from it to the distance of 150
yards lying prarrallel to it and forming a butment against which the
water after falling over the precipice beats with great fury; this
barrier extends on the right to the perpendicular clift which forms
that board of the river but to the distance of 120 yards next to the
clift it is but a few feet above the level of the water, and here the
water in very high tides appears to pass in a channel of 40 yds. next
to the higher part of the ledg of rocks; on the left it extends within
80 or ninty yards of the lard. Clift which is also perpendicular;
between this abrupt extremity of the ledge of rocks and the
perpendicular bluff the whole body of water passes with incredible
swiftness. immediately at the cascade the river is about 300 yds. wide;
about ninty or a hundred yards of this next the Lard. bluff is a smoth
even sheet of water falling over a precipice of at least eighty feet,
the remaining part of about 200 yards on my right formes the grandest
sight I ever beheld, the hight of the fall is the same of the other but
the irregular and somewhat projecting rocks below receives the water in
it's passage down and brakes it into a perfect white foam which assumes
a thousand forms in a moment sometimes flying up in jets of sparkling
foam to the hight of fifteen or twenty feet and are scarcely formed
before large roling bodies of the same beaten and foaming water is
thrown over and conceals them. in short the rocks seem to be most
happily fixed to present a sheet of the whitest beaten froath for 200
yards in length and about 80 feet perpendicular. the water after
decending strikes against the butment before mentioned or that on which
I stand and seems to reverberate and being met by the more impetuous
courant they role and swell into half formed billows of great hight
which rise and again disappear in an instant. this butment of rock
defends a handsom little bottom of about three acres which is
deversified and agreeably shaded with some cottonwood trees; in the
lower extremity of the bottom there is a very thick grove of the same
kind of trees which are small, in this wood there are several Indian
lodges formed of sticks. a few small cedar grow near the ledge of rocks
where I rest. below the point of these rocks at a small distance the
river is divided by a large rock which rises several feet above the
water, and extends downwards with the stream for about 20 yards. about
a mile before the water arrives at the pitch it decends very rappidly,
and is confined on the Lard. side by a perpendicular clift of about 100
feet, on Stard. side it is also perpendicular for about three hundred
yards above the pitch where it is then broken by the discharge of a
small ravine, down which the buffaloe have a large beaten road to the
water, for it is but in very few places that these anamals can obtain
water near this place owing to the steep and inaccessible banks. I see
several skelletons of the buffaloe lying in the edge of the water near
the Stard. bluff which I presume have been swept down by the current
and precipitated over this tremendious fall. about 300 yards below me
there is another butment of solid rock with a perpendicular face and
abot 60 feet high which projects from the Stard. side at right angles
to the distance of 134 yds. and terminates the lower part nearly of the
bottom before mentioned; there being a passage arround the end of this
butment between it and the river of about 20 yardes; here the river
again assumes it's usual width soon spreading to near 300 yards but
still continues it's rappidity. from the reflection of the sun on the
spray or mist which arrises from these falls there is a beatifull
rainbow produced which adds not a little to the beauty of this
majestically grand senery. after wrighting this imperfect discription I
again viewed the falls and was so much disgusted with the imperfect
idea which it conveyed of the scene that I determined to draw my pen
across it and begin agin, but then reflected that I could not perhaps
succeed better than pening the first impressions of the mind; I wished
for the pencil of Salvator Rosa or the pen of Thompson, that I might be
enabled to give to the enlightened world some just idea of this truly
magnifficent and sublimely grand object, which has from the
commencement of time been concealed from the view of civilized man; but
this was fruitless and vain. I most sincerely regreted that I had not
brought a crimee obscura with me by the assistance of which even I
could have hoped to have done better but alas this was also out of my
reach; I therefore with the assistance of my pen only indeavoured to
traces some of the stronger features of this seen by the assistance of
which and my recollection aided by some able pencil I hope still to
give to the world some faint idea of an object which at this moment
fills me with such pleasure and astonishment, and which of it's kind I
will venture to ascert is second to but one in the known world. I
retired to the shade of a tree where I determined to fix my camp for
the present and dispatch a man in the morning to inform Capt. C. and
the party of my success in finding the falls and settle in their minds
all further doubts as to the Missouri. the hunters now arrived loaded
with excellent buffaloe meat and informed me that they had killed three
very fat cows about 3/4 of a mile hence. I directed them after they had
refreshed themselves to go back and butcher them and bring another load
of meat each to our camp determining to employ those who remained with
me in drying meat for the party against their arrival. in about 2 hours
or at 4 OClock P.M. they set out on this duty, and I walked down the
river about three miles to discover if possible some place to which the
canoes might arrive or at which they might be drawn on shore in order
to be taken by land above the falls; but returned without effecting
either of these objects; the river was one continued sene of rappids
and cascades which I readily perceived could not be encountered with
our canoes, and the Clifts still retained their perpendicular structure
and were from 150 to 200 feet high; in short the river appears here to
have woarn a channel in the process of time through a solid rock. on my
return I found the party at camp; they had butchered the buffaloe and
brought in some more meat as I had directed. Goodrich had caught half a
douzen very fine trout and a number of both species of the white fish.
these trout are from sixteen to twenty three inches in length,
precisely resemble our mountain or speckled trout in form and the
position of their fins, but the specks on these are of a deep black
instead of the red or goald colour of those common to the U. States.
these are furnished long sharp teeth on the pallet and tongue and have
generally a small dash of red on each side behind the front ventral
fins; the flesh is of a pale yellowish red, or when in good order, of a
rose red.
I am induced to believe that the Brown, the white and the Grizly bear
of this country are the same species only differing in colour from age
or more probably from the same natural cause that many other anamals of
the same family differ in colour. one of those which we killed
yesterday was of a creemcoloured white while the other in company with
it was of the common bey or rdish brown, which seems to be the most
usual colour of them. the white one appeared from it's tallons and
teath to be the youngest; it was smaller than the other, and although a
monstrous beast we supposed that it had not yet attained it's growth
and that it was a little upwards of two years old. the young cubs which
we have killed have always been of a brownish white, but none of them
as white as that we killed yesterday. one other that we killed sometime
since which I mentioned sunk under some driftwood and was lost, had a
white stripe or list of about eleven inches wide entirely arround his
body just behind the shoalders, and was much darker than these bear
usually are. the grizly bear we have never yet seen. I have seen their
tallons in possession of the Indians and from their form I am perswaded
if there is any difference between this species and the brown or white
bear it is very inconsiderable. There is no such anamal as a black bear
in this open country or of that species generally denominated the black
bear
my fare is really sumptuous this evening; buffaloe's humps, tongues and
marrowbones, fine trout parched meal pepper and salt, and a good
appetite; the last is not considered the least of the luxuries.
[Clark, June 13, 1805]
June 13th Thursday 1805
a fair morning, Some dew this morning the Indian woman Verry sick I
gave her a doste of Salts. We Set out early, at a mile & 1/2 passed a
Small rapid Stream on the Lard Side which heads in a mountain to the S.
E 12 or 15 miles, which at this time covered with Snow, we call this
stream Snow river, as it is the conveyance of the melted snow from that
mountain at present. numbers of gees & goslings, the gees cannot fly at
this Season--goose berries are ripe and in great abundance, the yellow
Current is also Common, not yet ripe Killed a buffalow & Campd on the
Lard Side near an old Indian fortified campy one man Sick & 3 with
Swellings, the Indian woman verry Sick. Killed a goat & fraser 2
Buffalow
The river verry rapid maney Sholes great nos of large Stones passed
Some bluffs or low cliffts of Slate to day
[Lewis, June 14, 1805]
Friday June 14th 1805.
This morning at sunrise I dispatched Joseph Fields with a letter to
Capt. Clark and ordered him to keep sufficiently near the river to
observe it's situation in order that he might be enabled to give Capt.
Clark an idea of the point at which it would be best to halt to make
our portage. I set one man about preparing a saffold and collecting
wood to dry the meat Sent the others to bring in the ballance of the
buffaloe meat, or at least the part which the wolves had left us, for
those fellows are ever at hand and ready to partake with us the moment
we kill a buffaloe; and there is no means of puting the meat out of
their reach in those plains; the two men shortly after returned with
the meat and informed me that the wolves had devoured the greater part
of the meat. about ten OClock this morning while the men were engaged
with the meat I took my Gun and espontoon and thought I would walk a
few miles and see where the rappids termineated above, and return to
dinner. accordingly I set out and proceeded up the river about S. W.
after passing one continued rappid and three small cascades of abut for
or five feet each at the distance of about five miles I arrived at a
fall of about 19 feet; the river is hereabout 400 yds. wide. this pitch
which I called the crooked falls occupys about three fourths of the
width of the river, commencing on the South side, extends obliquly
upwards about 150 yds. then forming an accute angle extends downwards
nearly to the commencement of four small Islands lying near the N.
shore; among these Islands and between them and the lower extremity of
the perpendicular pitch being a distance of 100 yards or upwards, the
water glides down the side of a sloping rock with a volocity almost
equal to that of it's perpendicular decent. just above this rappid the
river makes a suddon bend to the right or Northwardly. I should have
returned from hence but hearing a tremendious roaring above me I
continued my rout across the point of a hill a few hundred yards
further and was again presented by one of the most beatifull objects in
nature, a cascade of about fifty feet perpendicular streching at
rightangles across the river from side to side to the distance of at
least a quarter of a mile. here the river pitches over a shelving rock,
with an edge as regular and as streight as if formed by art, without a
nich or brake in it; the water decends in one even and uninterupted
sheet to the bottom wher dashing against the rocky bottom rises into
foaming billows of great hight and rappidly glides away, hising
flashing and sparkling as it departs the sprey rises from one extremity
to the other to 50 f. I now thought that if a skillfull painter had
been asked to make a beautifull cascade that he would most probably
have pesented the precise immage of this one; nor could I for some time
determine on which of those two great cataracts to bestoe the palm, on
this or that which I had discovered yesterday; at length I determined
between these two great rivals for glory that this was pleasingly
beautifull, while the other was sublimely grand. I had scarcely infixed
my eyes from this pleasing object before I discovered another fall
above at the distance of half a mile; thus invited I did not once think
of returning but hurried thither to amuse myself with this newly
discovered object. I found this to be a cascade of about 14 feet
possessing a perpendicular pitch of about 6 feet. this was tolerably
regular streching across the river from bank to bank where it was about
a quarter of a mile wide; in any other neighbourhood but this, such a
cascade would probably be extoled for it's beaty and magnifficence, but
here I passed it by with but little attention, determining as I had
proceded so far to continue my rout to the head of the rappids if it
should even detain me all night. at every rappid cateract and cascade I
discovered that the bluffs grew lower or that the bed of the river rose
nearer to a level with the plains. still pursuing the river with it's
course about S. W. passing a continued sene of rappids and small
cascades, at the distance of 21/2 miles I arrived at another cataract
of 26 feet. this is not immediately perpendicular, a rock about 1/3 of
it's decent seems to protrude to a small distance and receives the
water in it's passage downwards and gives a curve to the water tho it
falls mostly with a regular and smoth sheet. the river is near six
hundred yards wide at this place, a beatifull level plain on the S.
side only a few feet above the level of the pitch; on the N. side where
I am the country is More broken and immediately behind me near the
river a high hill. below this fall at a little distance a beatifull
little Island well timbered is situated about the middle of the river.
in this Island on a Cottonwood tree an Eagle has placed her nest; a
more inaccessable spot I beleive she could not have found; for neither
man nor beast dare pass those gulphs which seperate her little domain
from the shores. the water is also broken in such manner as it decends
over this pitch that the mist or sprey rises to a considerable hight.
this fall is certainly much the greatest I ever behald except those two
which I have mentioned below. it is incomparably a geater cataract and
a more noble interesting object than the celibrated falls of Potomac or
Soolkiln &c. just above this is another cascade of about 5 feet, above
which the water as far as I could see began to abate of it's valosity,
and I therefore determined to ascend the hill behind me which promised
a fine prospect of the adjacent country, nor was I disappointed on my
arrival at it's summit. from hence I overlooked a most beatifull and
extensive plain reaching from the river to the base of the Snowclad
mountains to the S. and S. West; I also observed the missoury streching
it's meandering course to the South through this plain to a great
distance filled to it's even and grassey brim; another large river
flowed in on it's Western side about four miles above me and extended
itself though a level and fertile valley of 3 miles in width a great
distance to the N. W. rendered more conspicuous by the timber which
garnished it's borders. in these plains and more particularly in the
valley just below me immence herds of buffaloe are feeding. the
missouri just above this hill makes a bend to the South where it lies a
smoth even and unruffled sheet of water of nearly a mile in width
bearing on it's watry bosome vast flocks of geese which feed at
pleasure in the delightfull pasture on either border. the young geese
are now completely feathered except the wings which both in the young
and old are yet deficient. after feasting my eyes on this ravishing
prospect and resting myself a few minutes I determined to procede as
far as the river which I saw discharge itself on the West side of the
Missouri convinced that it was the river which the Indians call
medicine river and which they informed us fell into the Missouri just
above the falls I decended the hills and directed my course to the bend
of the Missouri near which there was a herd of at least a thousand
buffaloe; here I thought it would be well to kill a buffaloe and leave
him untill my return from the river and if I then found that I had not
time to get back to camp this evening to remain all night here there
being a few sticks of drift wood lying along shore which would answer
for my fire, and a few sattering cottonwood trees a few hundred yards
below which would afford me at least a semblance of a shelter. under
this impression I scelected a fat buffaloe and shot him very well,
through the lungs; while I was gazeing attentively on the poor anamal
discharging blood in streams from his mouth and nostrils, expecting him
to fall every instant, and having entirely forgotton to reload my
rifle, a large white, or reather brown bear, had perceived and crept on
me within 20 steps before I discovered him; in the first moment I drew
up my gun to shoot, but at the same instant recolected that she was not
loaded and that he was too near for me to hope to perform this
opperation before he reached me, as he was then briskly advancing on
me; it was an open level plain, not a bush within miles nor a tree
within less than three hundred yards of me; the river bank was sloping
and not more than three feet above the level of the water; in short
there was no place by means of which I could conceal myself from this
monster untill I could charge my rifle; in this situation I thought of
retreating in a brisk walk as fast as he was advancing untill I could
reach a tree about 300 yards below me, but I had no sooner terned
myself about but he pitched at me, open mouthed and full speed, I ran
about 80 yards and found he gained on me fast, I then run into the
water the idea struk me to get into the water to such debth that I
could stand and he would be obliged to swim, and that I could in that
situation defend myself with my espontoon; accordingly I ran haistily
into the water about waist deep, and faced about and presented the
point of my espontoon, at this instant he arrived at the edge of the
water within about 20 feet of me; the moment I put myself in this
attitude of defence he sudonly wheeled about as if frightened, declined
the combat on such unequal grounds, and retreated with quite as great
precipitation as he had just before pursued me. as soon as I saw him
run off in that manner I returned to the shore and charged my gun,
which I had still retained in my hand throughout this curious
adventure. I saw him run through the level open plain about three
miles, till he disappeared in the woods on medecine river; during the
whole of this distance he ran at full speed, sometimes appearing to
look behind him as if he expected pursuit. I now began to reflect on
this novil occurrence and indeavoured to account for this sudden
retreat of the bear. I at first thought that perhaps he had not smelt
me before he arrived at the waters edge so near me, but I then
reflected that he had pursued me for about 80 or 90 yards before I took
the water and on examination saw the grownd toarn with his tallons
immediately on the impression of my steps; and the cause of his allarm
still remains with me misterious and unaccountable.--so it was and I
feelt myself not a little gratifyed that he had declined the combat. My
gun reloaded I felt confidence once more in my strength; and determined
not to be thwarted in my design of visiting medicine river, but
determined never again to suffer my peice to be longer empty than the
time she necessarily required to charge her. I passed through the plain
nearly in the direction which the bear had run to medecine river, found
it a handsome stream, about 200 yds. wide with a gentle current,
apparently deep, it's waters clear, and banks which were formed
principally of darkbrown and blue clay were about the hight of those of
the Missouri or from 3 to 5 feet; yet they had not the appearance of
ever being overflown, a circumstance, which I did not expect so
immediately in the neighbourhood of the mountains, from whence I should
have supposed, that sudden and immence torrants would issue at certain
seasons of the year; but the reverse is absolutely the case. I am
therefore compelled to beleive that the snowey mountains yeald their
warters slowly, being partially effected every day by the influence of
the sun only, and never suddonly melted down by haisty showers of rain.
having examined Medecine river I now determined to return, having by my
estimate about 12 miles to walk. I looked at my watch and found it was
half after six P.M.--in returning through the level bottom of Medecine
river and about 200 yards distant from the Missouri, my direction led
me directly to an anamal that I at first supposed was a wolf; but on
nearer approach or about sixty paces distant I discovered that it was
not, it's colour was a brownish yellow; it was standing near it's
burrow, and when I approached it thus nearly, it couched itself down
like a cat looking immediately at me as if it designed to spring on me.
I took aim at it and fired, it instantly disappeared in it's burrow; I
loaded my gun and exmined the place which was dusty and saw the track
from which I am still further convinced that it was of the tiger kind.
whether I struck it or not I could not determine, but I am almost
confident that I did; my gun is true and I had a steady rest by means
of my espontoon, which I have found very serviceable to me in this way
in the open plains. It now seemed to me that all the beasts of the
neighbourhood had made a league to distroy me, or that some fortune was
disposed to amuse herself at my expence, for I had not proceded more
than three hundred yards from the burrow of this tyger cat, before
three bull buffaloe, which wer feeding with a large herd about half a
mile from me on my left, seperated from the herd and ran full speed
towards me, I thought at least to give them some amusement and altered
my direction to meet them; when they arrived within a hundred yards
they mad a halt, took a good view of me and retreated with
precipitation. I then continued my rout homewards passed the buffaloe
which I had killed, but did not think it prudent to remain all night at
this place which really from the succession of curious adventures wore
the impression on my mind of inchantment; at sometimes for a moment I
thought it might be a dream, but the prickley pears which pierced my
feet very severely once in a while, particularly after it grew dark,
convinced me that I was really awake, and that it was necessary to make
the best of my way to camp. it was sometime after dark before I
returned to the party; I found them extremely uneasy for my safety;
they had formed a thousand conjectures, all of which equally forboding
my death, which they had so far settled among them, that they had
already agreed on the rout which each should take in the morning to
surch for me. I felt myself much fortiegued, but eat a hearty supper
and took a good night's rest.--the weather being warm I had left my
leather over shirt and had woarn only a yellow flannin one.
[Clark, June 14, 1805]
June 14th Friday 1805
a fine morning, the Indian woman complaining all night & excessively
bad this morning--her case is Somewhat dangerous--two men with the
Tooth ake 2 with Turners, & one man with a Tumor & Slight fever passed
the Camp Capt. Lewis made the 1st night at which place he had left part
of two bear their skins &c three men with Turners went on shore and
Staycd out all night one of them killed 2 buffalow, a part of which we
made use of for brackfast, the Current excesevely rapid more So as we
assend we find great difficuelty in getting the Perogue & Canoes up in
Safety, Canoes take in water frequently, at 4 oClock this evening Jo.
Fields returned from Capt. Lewis with a letter for me, Capt Lewis dates
his letter from the Great falls of the Missouri, which Fields informs
me is about 20 miles in advance & about 10 miles above the place I left
the river the time I was up last week Capt. L. informs that those
falls; in part answer the discription given of them by the Indians,
much higher the Eagles nest which they describe is there, from those
Signs he is Convinced of this being the river the Indians call the
Missouri, he intends examineing the river above untill my arrival at a
point from which we can make a portage, which he is apprehensive will
be at least 5 miles & both above & below there is Several Small
pitches, & Swift troubled water we made only 10 miles to day and Camped
on the Lard Side, much hard Slate in the Clifts & but a Small quantity
of timber.
[Lewis, June 15, 1805]
Saturday June 15th 1805.
This morning the men again were sent to bring in some more meat which
Drewyer had killed yesterday, and continued the opperation of drying
it. I amused myself in fishing, and sleeping away the fortiegues of
yesterday. I caught a number of very fine trout which I made Goodrich
dry; goodrich also caught about two douzen and several small cat of a
yellow colour which would weigh about 4 lbs. the tails was seperated
with a deep angular nitch like that of the white cat of the missouri
from which indeed they differed only in colour. when I awoke from my
sleep today I found a large rattlesnake coiled on the leaning trunk of
a tree under the shade of which I had been lying at the distance of
about ten feet from him. I killed the snake and found that he had 176
scuta on the abdomen and i'7 half formed scuta on the tale; it was of
the same kinde which I had frequently seen before; they do not differ
in their colours from the rattle snake common to the middle attlantic
states, but considerably in the form and figures of those colours. This
evening after dark Joseph Fields returned and informed me that Capt
Clark had arrived with the party at the foot of a rappid about 5 miles
below which he did not think proper to ascend and would wait my arrival
there. I had discovered from my journey yesterday that a portage on
this side of the river will be attended by much difficulty in
consequence of several deep ravines which intersect the plains nearly
at right angles with the river to a considerable distance, while the
South side appears to be a delighfull smoth unbroken plain; the
bearings of the river also make it pobable that the portage will be
shorter on that side than on this.--I directed Fields to return early
in the morning to Capt. C. and request him to send up a party of men
for the dryed meat which we had made. I finde a very heavy due on the
grass about my camp every morning which no doubt procedes from the mist
of the falls, as it takes place no where in the plains nor on the river
except here.
[Clark, June 15, 1805]
June the 15th Satturday 1805
a fair morning and worm, we Set out at the usial time and proceeded on
with great dificuelty as the river is more rapid we can hear the falls
this morning verry distinctly--our Indian woman Sick &low Spirited I
gave her the bark & apply it exteranaly to her region which revived her
much. the curt. excessively rapid and dificuelt to assend great numbers
of dangerous places, and the fatigue which we have to encounter is
incretiatable the men in the water from morning untill night hauling
the Cord & boats walking on Sharp rocks and round Sliperery Stones
which alternately cut their feet & throw them down, not with Standing
all this dificuelty they go with great chearfulness, aded to those
dificuelties the rattle Snakes inumerable & require great caution to
prevent being bitten.--we passed a Small river on the Lard Side about
30 yards wide verry rapid which heads in the mountains to the S. E. I
Sent up this river 5 miles, it has Some timber in its bottoms and a
fall of 15 feet at one place, above this river the bluffs are of red
earth mixed with Stratums of black Stone, below this little river, we
pass a white clay which mixes with water like flour in every respect,
the Indian woman much wors this evening, She will not take any medison,
her husband petetions to return &c., river more rapid late in the
evening we arrived at a rapid which appeared So bad that I did not
think it prudent to attempt passing of it this evening as it was now
late, we Saw great numbers of Gees Ducks, Crows Blackbirds &c Geese &
Ducks with their young. after Landing I detached Joseph Fields to Capt.
Lewis to let him know where I was &c river rises a little this evening
we could not get a Sufficency of wood for our use
[Lewis, June 16, 1805]
Sunday June 16th 1805
J. Fields set out early on his return to the lower camp, at noon the
men arrived and shortly after I set out with them to rejoin the party.
we took with us the dryed meat consisting of about 600 lbs. and several
douzen of dryed trout. about 2 P.M. I reached the camp found the Indian
woman extreemly ill and much reduced by her indisposition. this gave me
some concern as well for the poor object herself, then with a young
child in her arms, as from the consideration of her being our only
dependence for a friendly negociation with the Snake Indians on whom we
depend for horses to assist us in our portage from the Missouri to the
columbia River. I now informed Capt. C. of my discoveries with rispect
to the most proper side for our portage, and of it's great length,
which I could not estimate at less than 16 miles. Capt. C. had already
sent two men this morning to examine the country on the S. side of the
river; he now passed over with the party to that side and fixed a camp
about a mile blow the entrance of a Creek where there was a sufficient
quantity of wood for fuel, an article which can be obtained but in few
places in this neighbourhood. after discharging the loads four of the
canoes were sent back to me, which by means of strong ropes we hawled
above the rappid and passed over to the south side from whence the
water not being rappid we can readily convey them into the creek by
means of which we hope to get them on the high plain with more ease.
one of the small canoes was left below this rappid in order to pass and
repass the river for the purpose of hunting as well as to procure the
water of the Sulpher spring, the virtues of which I now resolved to try
on the Indian woman. this spring is situated about 200 yards from the
Missouri on the N. E. side nearly opposite to the entrance of a large
creek; it discharges itself into the Missouri over a precepice of rock
about 25 feet, forming a pretty little ____ the water is as transparent
as possible strongly impregnated with sulpher, and I suspect Iron also,
as the colour of the hills and bluffs in the neighbourhood indicate the
existence of that metal. the water to all appearance is precisely
similar to that of Bowyer's Sulpher spring in Virginia. Capt. Clark
determined to set out in the morning to examine and survey the portage,
and discover the best rout. as the distance was too great to think of
transporting the canoes and baggage on the men's shoulders, we
scelected six men, and ordered them to look out some timber this
evening, and early in the morning to set about making a parsel of truck
wheels in order to convey our canoes and baggage over the portage. we
determined to leave the white perogue at this place, and substitute the
Iron boat, and also to make a further deposit of a part of our stores.
in the evening the men who had been sent out to examine the country and
made a very unfavourable report. they informed us that the creek just
above us and two deep ravenes still higher up cut the plain between the
river and mountain in such a manner, that in their opinions a portage
for the canoes on this side was impracticable. good or bad we must make
the portage. notwithstanding this report I am still convinced from the
view I had of the country the day before yesterday that a good portage
may be had on this side at least much better than on the other, and
much nearer also. I found that two dozes of barks and opium which I had
given her since my arrival had produced an alteration in her pulse for
the better; they were now much fuller and more regular. I caused her to
drink the mineral water altogether. wen I first came down I found that
her pulse were scarcely perceptible, very quick frequently irregular
and attended with strong nervous symptoms, that of the twitching of the
fingers and leaders of the arm; now the pulse had become regular much
fuller and a gentle perspiration had taken place; the nervous symptoms
have also in a great measure abated, and she feels herself much freeer
from pain. she complains principally of the lower region of the
abdomen, I therefore continued the cataplasms of barks and laudnumn
which had been previously used by my friend Capt Clark. I beleive her
disorder originated principally from an obstruction of the mensis in
consequence of taking could.--I determined to remain at this camp in
order to make some celestial observations, restore the sick woman, and
have all matters in a state of readiness to commence the portage
immediately on the return of Capt. Clark, who now furnished me with the
dayly occurrences which had taken place with himself and party since
our seperation which I here enter in his own words.
[Clark, June 16, 1805]
June 16th of Sunday 1805
Some rain last night a cloudy morning wind hard from the S. W. we Set
out passed the rapid by double manning the Perogue & Canoes and halted
at 1/4 of a mile to examine the rapids above, which I found to be an
Continued Cascade for as far as could be Seen which was about 2 miles,
I walked up on the Lard Side as high as a large Creek, which falls in
on the Lard. Side one mile above & opposit a large Sulpher Spring which
falls over the rocks on the Std. Side the wind rored from the S. W.
hard & Some rain, at about 2 oClock Capt Lewis joined me from the falls
5 miles distant, & infd. that the Lard Side was the best portage I
despatched 2 men this morning on the Lard. Side to examine the
portage.--the Indian woman verry bad, & will take no medisin what ever,
untill her husband finding her out of her Senses, easyly provailed on
her to take medison, if She dies it will be the fault of her husband as
I am now convinced-. we crossed the river after part of the day and
formed a Camp from which we intended to make the first portage, Capt.
Lewis stayed on the Std Side to direct the Canoes over the first riffle
4 of them passed this evening the others unloaded & part of the Perogue
Loading taken out--I deturmined to examine & Survey the Portage find a
leavel rout if possible--The 2 men despatched to examine the Portage
gave an unfavourable account of the Countrey, reporting that the Creek
& 2 deep reveens cut the Prarie in such a manner between the river and
mountain as to render a portage in their oppinion for the Canoes
impossible--we Selected 6 men to make wheels & to draw the Canoes on as
the distance was probably too far for to be caried on the mens Sholders
[Lewis, June 17, 1805]
Monday June 17th 1805.
Capt. Clark set out early this morning with five men to examine the
country and survey the river and portage as had been concerted last
evening. I set six men at work to pepare four sets of truck wheels with
couplings, toungs and bodies, that they might either be used without
the bodies for transporting our canoes, or with them in transporting
our baggage I found that the Elk skins I had prepared for my boat were
insufficient to compleat her, some of them having become dammaged by
the weather and being frequently wet; to make up this deficiency I sent
out two hunters this morning to hunt Elk; the ballance of the party I
employed first in unloading the white perogue, which we intend leaving
at this place, and bring the whole of our baggage together and
arranging it in proper order near our camp. this duty being compleated
I employed them in taking five of the small canoes up the creek which
we now call portage creek about 13/4 miles; here I had them taken out
and lyed in the sun to dry. from this place ther is a gradual ascent to
the top of the high plain to which we can now take them with ease; the
bluffs of this creek below and those of the river above it's entrance
are so steep that it would be almost impracticable to have gotten them
on the plain. we found much difficulty in geting the canoes up this
creek to the distance we were compelled to take them, in consequence of
the rappids and rocks which obstruct the channel of the creek. one of
the canoes overset and was very near injuring 2 men essencially. just
above the canoes the creek has a perpendicular fall of 5 feet and the
cliffts again become very steep and high. we were fortunate enough to
find one cottonwood tree just below the entrance of portage creek that
was large enough to make our carrage wheels about 22 Inches in
diameter; fortunate I say because I do not beleive that we could find
another of the same size perfectly sound within 20 miles of us. the
cottonwood which we are obliged to employ in the other parts of the
work is extreemly illy calculated for it being soft and brittle. we
have made two axeltrees of the mast of the white peroge, which I hope
will answer tolerably well tho it is reather small. The Indian woman
much better today, I have still continued the same course of medecine;
she is free from pain clear of fever, her pulse regular, and eats as
heartily as I am willing to permit her of broiled buffaloe well
seasoned with pepper and salt and rich soope of the same meat; I think
therefore that there is every rational hope of her recovery. saw a vast
number of buffaloe feeding in every direction arround us in the plains,
others coming down in large herds to water at the river; the fragments
of many carcases of these poor anamals daily pass down the river, thus
mangled I pesume in decending those immence cataracts above us. as the
buffaloe generally go in large herds to water and the passages to the
river about the falls are narrow and steep the hinder part of the herd
press those in front out of their debth and the water instatly takes
them over the cataracts where they are instantly crushed to death
without the possibility of escaping. in this manner I have seen ten or
a douzen disappear in a few minutes. their mangled carcases ly along
the shores below the falls in considerable quantities and afford fine
amusement for the bear wolves and birds of prey; this may be one reason
and I think not a bad one either that the bear are so tenatious of
their right of soil in this neighbourhood.
[Clark, June 17, 1805]
June 17th Monday 1805
a fine morning wind as usial Capt. Lewis with the party unloaded the
Perogue & he determined to keep the party employed in getting the
loading to the Creek about 1 mile over a low hill in my absence on the
Portage.
I Set out with 5 men at 8 oClock, and proceeded on up the Creek Some
distance to examine that & if possable assend that Suffcently high,
that a Streight Cours to the mouth of Medison river would head the 2
reveins, the Creek I found Confined rapid and Shallow generalley
Monday 17th of June passed through an open roleing Prarie, So as to
head the two reveins after heading two we Stand our Course So as to
Strike the river below the great pitch on our Course to the river
Crossed a Deep rivein near its mouth with Steep Clifts this rivein had
running water which was very fine, the river at this place is narrow &
Confined in perpindicular clifts of 170 feet from the tops of those
Clifts the Countrey rises with a Steep assent for about 250 feet more
we proceeded up the river passing a Sucession of rapids & Cascades to
the Falls, which we had herd for Several miles makeing a dedly Sound, I
beheld those Cateracts with astonishment the whole of the water of this
great river Confined in a Channel of 280 yards and pitching over a rock
of 97 feet 3/4 of an, from the foot of the falls arrises a Continued
mist which is extended for 150 yds. down & to near the top of the
Clifts on L Sd. the river below is Confined a narrow Chanl. Of 93 yards
haveing a Small bottom of timber on the Stard Side which is definded by
a rock, rangeing Cross wise the river a little below the Shoot, a Short
distance below this Cataract a large rock divides the Stream, I in
assendending the Clifts to take the hith of the fall was near Slipping
into the water, at which place I must have been Sucked under in an
instant, and with deficuelty and great risque I assended again, and
decended the Clift lower down (but few places Can be descended to the
river) and took the hight with as much accuricy as possible with a
Spirit Leavels &c. dined at a fine Spring 200 yards below the pitch
near which place 4 Cotton willow trees grew. on one of them I marked my
name the date, and hight of the falls,--we then proceeded up on the
river passing a Continued Cascade & rapid to a fall of 19 feet at 4
Small Islands, this fall is diaguanally across the river from the Lard
Side, forming an angle of 3/4 of the width from the Lard. from which
Side it pitches for 2/3 of that distance. on the Stard Side is a rapid
decline--below this Shoot a Deep revein falls in which we Camped for
the night which was Cold (The mountains in every derection has Snow on
Them) The plain to our left is leavel we Saw one Bear & inumerable
numbers of Buffalow, I Saw 2 herds of those animals watering
immediately above a considerable rapid, they decended by a narrow pass
to the bottom Small, the rier forced those forwd into the water Some of
which was taken down in an instant, and Seen no more others made Shore
with difficuelty, I beheld 40 or 50 of those Swimming at the Same time
those animals in this way are lost and accounts for the number of
buffalow carcases below the rapids
[Lewis, June 18, 1805]
Tuesday June 18th 1805.
This morning I employed all hands in drawing the perogue on shore in a
thick bunch of willow bushes some little distance below our camp;
fastened her securely, drove out the plugs of the gage holes of her
bottom and covered her with bushes and driftwood to shelter her from
the sun. I now scelected a place for a cash and set tree men at work to
complete it, and employed all others except those about the waggons, in
overhawling airing and repacking our indian goods ammunition, provision
and stores of every discription which required inspection. examined the
frame of my Iron boat and found all the parts complete except one
screw, which the ingenuity of Sheilds can readily replace, a resource
which we have very frequent occasion for. about 12 O'Clk. the hunters
returned; they had killed 10 deer but no Elk. I begin to fear that we
shall have some difficulty in procuring skins for the boat. I wold
prefer those of the Elk because I beleive them more durable and strong
than those of the Buffaloe, and that they will not shrink so much in
drying. we saw a herd of buffaloe come down to water at the sulpher
spring this evening, I dispatched some hunters to kill some of them,
and a man also for a cask of mineral water. the hunters soon killed two
of them in fine order and returned with a good quantity of the flesh,
having left the remainder in a situation that it will not spoil
provided the wolves do not visit it. The waggons are completed this
evening, and appear as if they would answer the purpose very well if
the axetrees prove sufficiently strong. the wind blew violently this
evening, as they frequently do in this open country where there is not
a tree to brake or oppose their force. The Indian woman is recovering
fast she set up the greater part of the day and walked out for the fist
time since she arrived here; she eats hartily and is free from fever or
pain. I continue same course of medecine and regimen except that I
added one doze of 15 drops of the oil of vitriol today about noon.
There is a species of goosberry which grows very common about here in
open situations among the rocks on the sides of the clifts. they are
now ripe of a pale red colour, about the size of a common goosberry.
and like it is an ovate pericarp of soft pulp invelloping a number of
smal whitish coloured seeds; the pulp is a yelloish slimy muselaginous
substance of a sweetish and pinelike tast, not agreeable to me. the
surface of the berry is covered with a glutinous adhesive matter, and
the frut altho ripe retains it's withered corollar. this shrub seldom
rises more than two feet high and is much branched, the leaves resemble
those of the common goosberry only not so large; it has no thorns. the
berry is supported by seperate peduncles or footstalks of half an inch
in length. immence quantities of small grasshoppers of a brown colour
in the plains, they no doubt contribute much to keep the grass as low
as we find it which is not generally more than three inches, the grass
is a narrow leaf, soft, and affords a fine pasture for the Buffaloe.-
[Clark, June 18, 1805]
June 18th Tuesday 1805
we Set out early and arrived at the second great Cataract at about 200
yds above the last of 19 feet pitch--this is one of the grandest views
in nature and by far exceeds any thing I ever Saw, the Missouri falling
over a Shelveing rock for 47 feet 8 Inches with a Cascade &c of 14 feet
7 Inches above the Shoot for a 1/4 mile I decended the Clift below this
Cateract with ease measured the hight of the purpendicular fall of 47
feet 8 Inches at which place the river is 473 yards wide as also the
hight of the Cascade &c. a continuel mist quite across this fall* after
which we proceeded on up the river a little more than a mile to the
largest fountain or Spring I ever Saw, and doubt if it is not the
largest in America Known, this water boils up from under th rocks near
the edge of the river and falls imediately into the river 8 feet and
keeps its Colour for 1/2 a mile which is emencely Clear and of a bluish
Cast, proceeded on up the river passed a Succession of rapids to the
next great fall of 26 Ft. 5 I. river 580 yards wide this fall is not
intirely perpdincular a Short bench gives a Curve to the water as it
falls a butifull Small Island at the foot of this fall near the Center
of the Channel Covered with trees, the Missouri at this fall is 36
yards wide, a Considerable mist rises at this fall ocasionally, from
this pitch to the head of the rapids is one mile & has a fall of 20
feet, this is also a handsome Scenery a fall in an open leavel plain,
after takeing the hight & measureing the river proceeded on, Saw a
gange of Buffalow Swiming the river above the falls, Several of which
was drawn in to the rapids and with dificuelty mad Shore half drowned,
we killed one of those Cows & took as much meat as we wished. emence
herds of those animals in every direction, passed 2 groves in the Point
just above the rapids & dined in one opposit the mouth of Medison
River, which fails in on the Stard. Side and is 137 yards wide at its
mouth the Missouri above is 800 yards wide, as the river Missouri
appears to bear S Easterley I assended about 4 miles high to a Creek
which appeared to head in South mountains passed a Island of ____ and a
little timber in an Easterly bend at 1 mile, passed Some timber in a
point at 2 mile at or near the lower point of a large Island on which
we Shot at a large white bear. passed a Small Island in the middle and
one close on the Lard Shore at 3 miles behind the head of which we
Camped. those 3 Islands are all opposit, Soon after we Camped two
ganges of Buffalow crossed one above & the other below we killed 7 of
them & a calf and Saved as much of the best of the meat as we could
this evening, one man A Willard going for a load of meat at 170 yards
distance on an Island was attact by a white bear and verry near being
Caught, prosued within 40 yards of Camp where I was with one man I
collected 3 others of the party and prosued the bear (who had prosued
my track from a buffalow I had killed on the Island at about 300 yards
distance and chance to meet Willard) for fear of his attacking one man
Colter at the lower point of the Island, before we had got down the
bear had allarmed the man and prosued him into the water, at our
approach he retreated, and we relieved the man in the water, I Saw the
bear but the bushes was So thick that I could not Shoot him and it was
nearly dark, the wind from the S W & Cool killed a beaver & an elk for
their Skins this evening
[Lewis, June 19, 1805]
Wednesday June 19th 1805.
This morning I sent over several men for the meat which was killed
yesterday, a few hours after they returned with it, the wolves had not
discovered it. I also dispatched George Drewyer Reubin Fields and
George Shannon on the North side of the Missouri with orders to proceed
to the entrance of Medecine river and indeavour to kill some Elk in
that neigh-bourhood. as there is more timber on that river than the
Missouri I expect that the Elk are more plenty. The cash completed
today. The wind blew violently the greater part of the day. the Indian
woman was much better this morning she walked out and gathered a
considerable quantity of the white apples of which she eat so heartily
in their raw state, together with a considerable quantity of dryed fish
without my knowledge that she complained very much and her fever again
returned. I rebuked Sharbono severely for suffering her to indulge
herself with such food he being privy to it and having been previously
told what she must only eat. I now gave her broken dozes of diluted
nitre untill it produced perspiration and at 10 P.M. 30 drops of
laudnum which gave her a tolerable nights rest. I amused myself in
fishing several hours today and caught a number of both species of the
white fish, but no trout nor Cat. I employed the men in making up our
baggage in proper packages for transportation; and waxed the stoppers
of my powder canesters anew. had the frame of my Iron boat clensed of
rust and well greased. in the evening the men mended their mockersons
and preparedthemselves for the portage. After dark my dog barked very
much and seemed extreemly uneasy which was unusual with him; I ordered
the sergt. of the guard to reconniter with two men, thinking it
possible that some Indians might be about to pay us a visit, or perhaps
a white bear; he returned soon after & reported that he believed the
dog had been baying a buffaloe bull which had attempted to swim the
river just above our camp but had been beten down by the stream landed
a little below our camp on the same side & run off.
[Clark, June 19, 1805]
June 19th Wednesday 1805
We went on the Island to hunt the White bear this morning but Could not
find him, after plotting my Courses &c. I deturmined to dry the meat we
killed and leave here, and proceed up the river as far as it bent to
the S. E. and examine a Small Creek above our Camp, I Set out and found
the Creek only Contained back water for 1 mile up, ascend near the
Missouri 3 miles to the bend, from which place it turnd. Westerly, from
this bend I with 2 men went forward towards the Camp of the party to
examine the best ground for the portage, the little Creek has verry
extencive bottoms which Spread out into a varriety of leavl rich
bottoms quite to the mountains to the East, between those bottoms is
hills low and Stoney on this declivity where it is Steep. I returned to
Camp late and deturmined that the best nearest and most eassy rout
would be from the lower part of the 3rd or white bear Island, the wind
all this day blew violently hard from the S W. off the Snowey
mountains, Cool, in my last rout I lost a part of my notes which could
not be found as the wind must have blown them to a great distance.
Summer duck Setting great numbers of buffalow all about our Camp
[Lewis, June 20, 1805]
Thursday June 20th 1805.
This morning we had but little to do; waiting the return of Capt.
Clark; I am apprehensive from his stay that the portage is longer than
we had calculated on. I sent out 4 hunters this morning on the opposite
side of the river to kill buffaloe; the country being more broken on
that side and cut with ravenes they can get within shoot of the
buffaloe with more ease and certainty than on this side of the river.
my object is if possible while we have now but little to do, to lay in
a large stock of dryed meat at this end of the portage to subsist the
party while engaged in the transportation of our baggage &c, to the
end, that they may not be taken from this duty when once commenced in
order to surch for the necessary subsistence. The Indian woman is qute
free from pain and fever this morning and appears to be in a fair way
for recovery, she has been walking about and fishing. In the evening 2
of the hunters returned and informed me that they had killed eleven
buffaloe eight of which were in very fine order, I sent off all hands
immediately to bring in the meat they soon returned with about half of
the best meat leaving three men to remain all night in order to secure
the ballance. the bufhaloe are in inimence numbers, they have been
constantly coming down in large herds to water opposite to us for some
hours sometimes two or three herds wartering at the same instant and
scarcely disappear before others supply their places. they appear to
make great use of the mineral water, whether this be owing to it's
being more convenient to them than the river or that they actually
prefer it I am at a loss to determine for they do not use it
invaryably, but sometimes pass at no great distance from it and water
at the river. brackish water or that of a dark colour impregnated with
mineral salts such as I have frequenly mentioned on the Missouri is
found in small quantities in some of the steep ravenes on the N. side
of the river opposite to us and the falls. Capt. Clark and party
returned late this evening when he gave me the following relation of
his rout and the occurrences which had taken place with them since
their departure.
Capt. Clark now furnished me with the field notes of the survey which
he had made of the Missouri and it's Cataracts cascades &c. from the
entrance of portage Creek to the South Eastwardly bend of the Missouri
above the White bear Islands, which are as follow.
[Clark, June 20, 1805]
June 20th Thursday 1805
a Cloudy morning, a hard wind all night and this morning, I direct
Stakes to be Cut to Stick up in the prarie to Show the way for the
party to transport the baggage &c. &c. we Set out early on the portage,
Soon after we Set out it began to rain and continued a Short time we
proceeded on thro a tolerable leavel plain, and found the hollow of a
Deep rivein to obstruct our rout as it Could not be passed with Canos &
baggage for Some distance above the place we Struck it I examined it
for Some time and finding it late deturmined to Strike the river & take
its Course & distance to Camp which I accordingly did the wind hard
from the S. W. a fair after noon, the river on both Sides Cut with
raveins Some of which is passes thro Steep Clifts into the river, the
Countrey above the falls & up the Medison river is leavel, with low
banks, a chain of mountains to the west Some part of which particuler
those to the N W. & S W are Covered with Snow and appear verry high--I
Saw a rattle Snake in an open plain 2 miles from any Creek or wood.
When I arrived at Camp found all well with great quantites of meet, the
Canoes Capt. Lewis had Carried up the Creek 1 mile to a good place to
assend the band & taken up. Not haveing Seen the Snake Indians or
knowing in fact whither to Calculate on their friendship or hostillity,
we have Conceived our party Sufficiently Small, and therefore have
Concluded not to dispatch a Canoe with a part of our men to St. Louis
as we have intended early in the Spring. we fear also that Such a
measure might also discourage those who would in Such Case remain, and
migh possibly hazard the fate of the expedition. we have never hinted
to any one of the party that we had Such a Scheem in contemplation, and
all appear perfectly to have made up their minds, to Succeed in the
expedition or perish in the attempt. we all believe that we are about
to enter on the most perilous and dificuelt part of our Voyage, yet I
See no one repineing; all appear ready to meet those dificuelties which
await us with resolution and becomeing fortitude.
We had a heavy dew this morning. the Clouds near those mountains rise
Suddonly and discharge their Contents partially on the neighbouring
Plains; the Same Cloud discharge hail alone in one part, hail and rain
in another and rain only in a third all within the Space of a fiew
Miles; and on the Mountains to the South & S. E. of us Sometimes Snow.
at present there is no Snow on those mountains; that which covered them
a fiew days ago has all disappeared. the Mountains to the N. W. and
West of us are Still entirely Covered are white and glitter with the
reflection of the Sun.
I do not believe that the Clouds that pervale at this Season of the
year reach the Summits of those lofty mountains; and if they do the
probability is that they deposit Snow only for there has been no
proceptable diminution of the Snow which they Contain Since we first
Saw them. I have thought it probable that these mountains might have
derived their appellation of Shineing Mountains, from their glittering
appearance when the Sun Shines in certain directions on the Snow which
Cover them.
Dureing the time of my being on the Plains and above the falls I as
also all my party repeatedly heard a nois which proceeded from a
Direction a little to the N. of West, as loud and resembling precisely
the discharge of a piece of ordinance of 6 pounds at the distance of 5
or six miles. I was informed of it Several times by the men J. Fields
particularly before I paid any attention to it, thinking it was thunder
most probably which they had mistaken. at length walking in the plains
yesterday near the most extreem S. E. bend of the River above the falls
I heard this nois very distinctly, it was perfectly calm clear and not
a Cloud to be Seen, I halted and listened attentively about two hour
dureing which time I heard two other discharges, and took the direction
of the Sound with my pocket Compass which was as nearly West from me as
I could estimate from the Sound. I have no doubt but if I had leasure I
could find from whence it issued. I have thought it probable that it
might be caused by running water in Some of the caverns of those emence
mountains, on the principal of the blowing caverns; but in Such case
the Sounds would be periodical and regular, which is not the Case with
this, being Sometimes heard once only and at other times Several
discharges in quick Succession. it is heard also at different times of
the day and night. I am at a great loss to account for this Phenomenon.
I well recollect hereing the Minitarees Say that those Rocky Mountains
make a great noise, but they could not tell me the Cause, neither Could
they inform me of any remarkable substance or situation in these
mountains which would autherise a conjecture of a probable cause of
this noise-. it is probable that the large river just above those Great
falls which heads in the detection of the noise has taken it's name
Medicine River from this unaccountable rumbling Sound, which like all
unacountable thing with the Indians of the Missouri is Called Medicine.
The Ricaras inform us of the black mountains making a Simalar noise &c.
&c. and maney other wonderfull tales of those Rocky mountains and those
great falls.
[Lewis, June 21, 1805]
Friday June 21st 1805.
This morning I employed the greater part of the men in transporting a
part of the bagage over portage creek to the top of the high plain
about three miles in advance on the portage. I also had one canoe
carryed on truck wheles to the same place and put the baggage in it, in
order to make an early start in the morning, as the rout of our portage
is not yet entirely settled, and it would be inconvenient to remain in
the open plain all night at a distance from water, which would probably
be the case if we did not set out early as the latter part of the rout
is destitute of water for about 8 miles--having determined to go to the
upper part of the portage tomorrow; in order to prepare my boat and
receive and take care of the stores as they were transported, I caused
the Iron frame of the boat and the necessary tools my private baggage
and Instruments to be taken as a part of this load, also the baggage of
Joseph Fields, Sergt. Gass and John sheilds, whom I had scelected to
assist me in constructing the leather boat. Three men were employed
today in shaving the Elk skins which had ben collected for the boat.
the ballance of the party were employed in cuting the meat we had
killed yesterday into thin Retches and drying it, and in bring in the
ballance of what had been left over the river with three men last
evening. I readily preceive several difficulties in preparing the
leather boat which are the want of convenient and proper timber; bark,
skins, and above all that of pitch to pay her seams, a deficiency that
I really know not how to surmount unless it be by means of tallow and
pounded charcoal which mixture has answered a very good purpose on our
wooden canoes heretofore. I have seen for the first time on the
Missouri at these falls, a species of fishing ducks with white wings,
brown and white body and the head and part of the neck adjoining of a
brick red, and the beak narrow; which I take to be the same common to
James river, the Potomac and Susquehanna. immence numbers of buffaloe
comeing to water at the river as usual. the men who remained over the
river last night killed several mule deer, and Willard who was with me
killed a young Elk. The wind blew violently all day. The growth of the
neighbourhood what little there is consists of the broad and narrow
leafed cottonwood, box alder, the large or sweet willow, the narrow and
broad leafed willow. the sweet willow has not been common to the
Missouri below this or the entrance of Maria's river; here attains to
the same size and in appearance much the same as in the Atlantic
States. the undergrowth consists of rosebushes, goosberry and current
bushes, honeysuckle small, and the red wood, the inner bark of which
the engages are fond of smoking mixed with tobacco.
[Clark, June 21, 1805]
June 21st Friday 1805
a fine morning wind from the S W. off the mountains and hard, Capt
Lewis with the men except a few take a part of the baggage & a Canoe up
the Hill 3 mile in advance, Several men employed in Shaveing & Graneing
Elk hides for the Iron boat as it is called--3 men were Sent up the
Medison river yesterday to kill Elk for the Skins for the boat, I fear
that we Shall be put to Some dificuelty in precureing Elk Skins
Sufficent-, Cloudy afternoon, we dry meat for the men to eat on their
return from the upper part of the portage Capt Lewis determine to
proceed to the upper part of the Portage tomorrow & with 3 men proced
to fix the Iron boat with Skins &c. &c.
[Lewis, June 22, 1805]
Saturday June 22cd 1805.
This morning early Capt Clark and myself with all the party except
Sergt. Ordway Sharbono, Goodrich, york and the Indian woman, set out to
pass the portage with the canoe and baggage to the Whitebear Islands,
where we intend that this portage shall end. Capt. Clarke piloted us
through the plains. about noon we reached a little stream about 8 miles
on the portage where we halted and dined; we were obliged here to renew
both axeltrees and the tongues and howns of one set of wheels which
took us no more than 2 hours. these parts of our carriage had been made
of cottonwood and one axetree of an old mast, all of which proved
deficient and had broken down several times before we reached this
place we have now renewed them with the sweet willow and hope that they
will answer better. after dark we had reached within half a mile of our
intended camp when the tongues gave way and we were obliged to leave
the canoe, each man took as much of the baggage as he could carry on
his back and proceeded to the river where we formed our encampment much
fortiegued. the prickly pears were extreemly troublesome to us sticking
our feet through our mockersons. Saw a great number of buffaloe in the
plains, also immence quantities of little birds and the large brown
curloo; the latter is now seting; it lays it's eggs, which are of a
pale blue with black specks, on the ground without any preperation of a
nest. there is a kind of larke here that much resembles the bird called
the oldfield lark with a yellow brest and a black spot on the croop;
tho this differs from ours in the form of the tail which is pointed
being formed of feathers of unequal length; the beak is somewhat longer
and more curved and the note differs considerably; however in size,
action, and colours there is no perceptable difference; or at least
none that strikes my eye. after reaching our camp we kindled our fires
and examined the meat which Capt. Clark had left, but found only a
small proportion of it, the wolves had taken the greater part. we eat
our suppers and soon retired to rest.
[Clark, June 22, 1805]
June 22nd Satturday 1805
a fine morning, Capt Lewis my Self and all the party except a Sergeant
Ordway Guterich and the Interpreter and his wife Sar car gah we a (who
are left at Camp to take Care of the baggage left) across the portage
with one Canoe on truck wheels and loaded with a part of our Baggage I
piloted thro the plains to the Camp I made at which place I intended
the portage to end which is 3 miles above the Medesin River we had
great dificuelty in getting on as the axeltree broke Several times, and
the Cuppling tongus of the wheels which was of Cotton & willow, the
only wood except Boxelder & ____ that grow in this quarter, we got
within half a mile of our intended Camp much fatigued at dark, our
tongus broke & we took a load to the river on the mens back, where we
found a number of wolves which had distroyed a great part of our meat
which I had left at that place when I was up day before yesterday we
Soon went to Sleep & Slept Sound wind from the ____ we deturmine to
employ every man Cooks & all on the portage after to day
Canoe and baggage brought up, after which we breakfasted and nearly
consumed the meat which he had left here. he now set out on his return
with the party. I employed the three men with me in the forenoon
clearing away the brush and forming our camp, and puting the frame of
the boat together. this being done I sent Shields and Gass to look out
for the necessary timber, and with J. Fields decended the river in the
canoe to the mouth of Medicine river in surch of the hunters whom I had
dispatched thither on the 19th inst. and from whom we had not heard a
sentence. I entered the mouth of medicine river and ascended it about
half a mile when we landed and walked up the Stard. side. frequently
hooping as we went on in order to find the hunters; at length after
ascending the river about five miles we found Shannon who had passed
the Medecine river & fixed his camp on the Lard. side, where he had
killed seven deer and several buffaloe and dryed about 600 lbs. of
buffaloe meat; but had killed no Elk. Shannon could give me no further
account of R. Fields and Drewyer than that he had left them about noon
on the 19th at the great falls and had come on the mouth of Medicine
river to hunt Elk as he had been directed, and never had seen them
since. the evening being now far spent I thought it better to pass the
Medicine river and remain all night at Shannon's camp; I passed the
river on a raft which we soon constructed for the purpose. the river is
here about 80 yds. wide, is deep and but a moderate current. the banks
low as those of the Missouri above the falls yet never appear to
overflow. as it will give a better view of the transactions of the
party, I shall on each day give the occurrences of both camps during
our seperation as I afterwards learnt those of the lower camp from
Capt. Clark. on his return today he cut of several angles of the rout
by which we came yesterday, shortened the portage considerably,
measured it and set up stakes throughout as guides to marke the rout.
he returned this evening to the lower camp in sufficient time to take
up two of the canoes from portage creek to the top of the plain about a
mile in advance. this evening the men repaired their mockersons, and
put on double souls to protect their feet from the prickley pears.
during the late rains the buffaloe have troden up the praire very much,
which having now become dry the sharp points of earth as hard as frozen
ground stand up in such abundance that there is no avoiding them. this
is particulary severe on the feet of the men who have not only their
own wight to bear in treading on those hacklelike points but have also
the addition of the burthen which they draw and which in fact is as
much as they can possibly move with. they are obliged to halt and rest
frequently for a few minutes, at every halt these poor fellows tumble
down and are so much fortiegued that many of them are asleep in an
instant; in short their fatiegues are incredible; some are limping from
the soreness of their feet, others faint and unable to stand for a few
minutes, with heat and fatiegue, yet no one complains, all go with
cheerfullness. in evening Reubin Fields returned to the lower camp and
informed Capt. Clark of the absence of Shannon, with rispect to whome
they were extreemly uneasy. Fields and Drewyer had killed several
buffaloe at the bend of the missouri above the falls and had dryed a
considerable quantity of meat; they had also killed several deer but no
Elk.
[Clark, June 23, 1805]
June 23rd Sunday 1805
a Cloudy morning wind from the S. E, after getting the Canoe to Camp &
the articles left in the plains we eate brackfast of the remaining meat
found in Camp & I with the party the truck wheels & poles to Stick up
in the prarie as a guide, Set out on our return, we proceeded on, &
measured the Way which I Streightened considerably from that I went on
yesterday, and arrived at our lower camp in Suffcent time to take up 2
Canoes on the top of the hill from the Creek, found all Safe at Camp
the men mended their mockersons with double Soles to Save their feet
from the prickley pear, (which abounds in the Praries,) and the hard
ground which in Some & maney places So hard as to hurt the feet verry
much, the emence number of Buffalow after the last rain has trod the
flat places in Such a manner as to leave it uneaven, and that has tried
and is wors than frozen ground, added to those obstructions, the men
has to haul with all their Strength wate & art, maney times every man
all catching the grass & knobes & Stones with their hands to give them
more force in drawing on the Canoes & Loads, and notwithstanding the
Coolness of the air in high presperation and every halt, those not
employed in reparing the Couse; are asleep in a moment, maney limping
from the Soreness of their feet Some become fant for a fiew moments,
but no man Complains all go Chearfully on--to State the fatigues of
this party would take up more of the journal than other notes which I
find Scercely time to Set down. I had the best rout Staked out and
measured which is 17 miles 3/4 to the river & 1/2 a mile up i.e 181/4
miles portage--from the lower rapid to the 1st Creek is 286 poles, to a
Deep run of water, Called Willow Run is 6 miles thence to the river 3
miles above Medison Riv at 3 Island Called White Bear Islands is 11
miles all prarie without wood or water except at the Creek & run which
afford a plenty of fine water and a little wood the plain is tolerably
leavel except at the river a Small assent & passing a low hill from the
Creek a rough & Steep assent for about 1/4 of a mile and Several
Gullies & a gradual hill for 11/2 miles the heads of Several gullies
which have Short assents & the willow run of a Steep hill on this run
grows Purple & red Currents. the red is now ripe the Purple full grown,
an emence number of Prarie birds now Setting of two kinds one larger
than a Sparrow dark yellow the Center feathers of its tail yellow & the
out Sides black Some Streeks about its neck, the other about the Same
Size White tail
[Lewis, June 24, 1805]
Monday June 24th 1805.
Supposing that Drewyer and R. Fields might possibly be still higher up
medicine river, I dispatched J. Fields up the river with orders to
proceede about four miles and then return whether he found them or not
and join Shannon at this camp. I set out early and walked down the
South West side of the river and sent Shannon down the opposite side to
bring the canoe over to me and put me across the Missouri; having
landed on the Lard. side of the Missouri I sent Shannon back with the
canoe to ascend the Medicine river as far as his camp to meet J. Fields
and bring the dryed meat at that place to the camp at the white bear
Islands which accomplished and arrived with Fields this evening. the
party also arrived this evening with two canoes from the lower camp.
they were wet and fatiegued, gave them a dram. R. Fields came with them
and gave me an account of his & Drewyer's hunt, and informed me that
Drewyer was still at their camp with the meat they had dryed. the iron
frame of my boat is 36 feet long 41/2 F. in the beam and 26 Inches in
the hole.
This morning early Capt. Clark had the remaining canoe drawn out of the
water; and divided the remainder of our baggage into three parcels, one
of which he sent today by the party with two canoes. The Indian woman
is now perfectly recovered. Capt. C. came a few miles this morning to
see the party under way and returned. on my arrival at the upper camp
this morning, I found that Sergt. Gass and Shields had made but slow
progress in collecting timber for the boat; they complained of great
difficulty in geting streight or even tolerably streight sticks of 4/2
feet long. we were obliged to make use of the willow and box alder, the
cottonwood being too soft and brittle. I kept one of them collecting
timber while the other shaved and fitted them. I have found some pine
logs among the drift wood near this place, from which, I hope to obtain
as much pitch as will answer to pay the seams of the boat. I directed
Fraizer to remain in order to sew the hides together, and form the
covering for the boat.
[Clark, June 24, 1805]
June 24th Monday 1805
a Cloudy morning I rose early had, the remaining Canoe hauled out of
the water to dry and divided the baggage into 3 parcels, one of which
the party took on their backs & one waggon with truk wheels to the
Canoes 3 miles in advance (Those Canoes or 5 of our Canoes were Carried
up the Creek 13/4 of a mile taken out on the bank and left to dry from
which place they are taken up a point and intersects this rout from the
mouth of the Creek at 3 miles from the foot of the rapids) after
getting up their loads they divided men & load & proceeded on with 2
canoes on truck wheels as before, I accompaned them 4 miles and
returned, my feet being verry Sore from the walk over ruts Stones &
hills & thro the leavel plain for 6 days proceeding Carrying my pack
and gun. Some few drops of rain in the fore part of the day, at 6
oClock a black Cloud arose to the N West, the wind shifted from the S
to that point and in a short time the earth was entirely Covered with
hail, Some rain Succeeded, which Continud for about an hour very
moderately on this Side of the river, without the earths being wet 1/2
an inch, the riveins on the opposit or N W Side discharged emence
torrents of water into the river, & Showed evidently that the rain was
much heavyer on that Side, Some rain at different times in the night
which was worm--Thunder without lightning accompanied the hail Cloud
[Lewis, June 25, 1805]
Tuesday June 25th 1805.
This morning early I sent the party back to the lower camp; dispatched
Frazier down with the canoe for Drewyer and the meat he had collected,
and Joseph Fields up the Missouri to hunt Elk. at eight OCIk. sent Gass
and Sheilds over to the large Island for bark and timber. about noon
Fields returned and informed me that he had seen two white bear near
the river a few miles above and in attempting to get a shoot them had
stumbled uppon a third which immediately made at him being only a few
steps distant; that in runing in order to escape from the bear he had
leaped down a steep bank of the river on a stony bar where he fell cut
his hand bruised his knees and bent his gun. that fortunately for him
the bank hid him from the bear when he fell and that by that means he
had escaped. this man has been truly unfortunate with these bear, this
is the second time that he has narrowly escaped from them. about 2 P. M
Shields and Gass returned with but a small quantity of both bark and
timber and informed me that it was all they could find on the Island;
they had killed two Elk the skins of which and a part of the flesh they
brought with them. in the evening Drewyer and Frazier arrivd with about
800 lbs. of excellent dryed meat and about 100 lbs of tallow. The river
is about 800 yds. wide opposite to us above these islands, and has a
very gentle current the bottoms are hadsome level and extensive on both
sides; the bank on this side is not more than 2 feet above the level of
the water; it is a pretty little grove in which our camp is situated.
there is a species of wild rye which is now heading it rises to the
hight of 18 or 20 inches, the beard is remarkably fine and soft it is a
very handsome grass the culm is jointed and is in every rispect the
wild rye in minuture. great quantities of mint also are here it
resemble the pepper mint very much in taste and appearance. the young
blackbirds which are almost innumerable in these islands just begin to
fly. see a number of water tarripens. I have made an unsuccessfull
attempt to catch fish, and do not think there are any in this part of
the river. The party that returned this evening to the lower camp
reached it in time to take one canoe on the plain and prepare their
baggage for an early start in the morning after which such as were able
to shake a foot amused themselves in dancing on the green to the music
of the violin which Cruzatte plays extreemly well.
Capt. C. somewhat unwell today. he made Charbono kook for the party
against their return. it is worthy of remark that the winds are
sometimes so strong in these plains that the men informed me that they
hoisted a sail in the canoe and it had driven her along on the truck
wheels. this is really sailing on dry land.
[Clark, June 25, 1805]
June 25th Tuesday 1805
a fair worm morning, Clouded & a few drops of rain at 5 oClock A.M.
fair I feel my Self a little unwell with a looseness &c. &c. put out
the Stores to dry & Set Chabonah &c to Cook for the party against their
return-he being the only man left on this Side with me I had a little
Coffee for brackfast which was to me a riarity as I had not tasted any
Since last winter. The wind from the N. W. & worm. This Countrey has a
romantick appearance river inclosed between high and Steep hills Cut to
pieces by revines but little timber and that Confined to the Rivers &
Creek, the Missourie has but a fiew Scattering trees on its borders,
and only one Solitary Cotton tree in sight of my Camp the wood which we
burn is drift wood which is broken to pieces in passing the falls, not
one large tree longer than about 8 or 10 feet to be found drifted below
the falls the plains are inferior in point of Soil to those below, more
Stone on the sides of the hill, grass but a few inches high and but few
flowers in the Plains, great quantites of Choke Cheries, Goose burres,
red & yellow berries, & red & Purple Currents on the edges of water
Courses in bottoms & damp places, about my Camp the Cliffs or bluffs
are a hard red or redish brown earth Containing Iron. we Catch great
quantities of Trout, and a kind of mustel, flat backs & a Soft fish
resembling a Shad and a few Cat. at 5 oClock the party returned,
fatigued as usial, and proceeded to mend their mockersons &c. and G
Shannon & R, Fds. to of the men who ware Sent up the medison river to
hunt Elk, they killed no Elk, Several Buffalow & Deer, and reports that
the river is 120 yds wide and about 8 feet deep Some timber on its
borders--a powerfull rain fell on the party on their rout yesterday Wet
Some fiew articles, and Caused the rout to be So bad wet & Deep thay
Could with dificuelty proceed, Capt. Lewis & the men with him much
employd with the Iron Boat in fitting it for the water, dispatched one
man to George Drewyers Camp below medison river for meat &c. a fair
after noon--great numbers of buffalow water opposit to my Camp everry
day--it may be here worthy of remark that the Sales were hoised in the
Canoes as the men were drawing them and the wind was great relief to
them being Sufficeritly Strong to move the Canoes on the Trucks, this
is Saleing on Dry land in every Sence of the word, Serjeant N Pryor
Sick, the party amused themselves with danceing untill 10 oClock all
Chearfullness and good humer, they all tied up their loads to make an
early Start in the morning.
[Lewis, June 26, 1805]
Wednesday June 26th 1805.
The Musquetoes are extreemly troublesome to us. This morning early I
dispatched J. Fields and Drewyer in one of the canoes up the river to
hunt Elk. set Frazier at work to sew the skins together for the
covering of the boat. Sheilds and Gas I sent over the river to lurch a
small timbered bottom on that side opposite to the Islands for timber
and bark; and to myself I assign the duty of cook as well for those
present as for the party which I expect again to arrive this evening
from the lower camp. I collected my wood and water, boiled a large
quantity of excellent dryed buffaloe meat and made each man a large
suet dumpling by way of a treat. about 4 P.M. Shields and Gass returned
with a better supply of timber than they had yet collected tho not by
any means enough. they brought some bark principally of the Cottonwood
which I found was too brittle and soft for the purpose; for this
article I find my only dependence is the sweet willow which has a tough
& strong bark. Shields and Gass had killed seven buffaloe in their
absence the skins of which and a part of the best of the meat they
brought with them. if I cannot procure a sufficient quantity of Elk's
skins I shall substitute those of the buffaloe. late in the evening the
party arrived with two more canoes and another portion of the baggage.
Whitehouse one of them much heated and fortiegued on his arrivall dank
a very hearty draught of water and was taken almost instanly extreemly
ill. his pulse were very full and I therefore bled him plentifully from
which he felt great relief. I had no other instrument with which to
perform this opperation but my pen knife, however it answered very
well. the wind being from S. E today and favourable the men made
considerable progress by means of their sails.
At the lower Camp. The party set out very early from this place, and
took with them two canoes and a second alotment of baggage consisting
of Parched meal, Pork, powder lead axes, tools, bisquit, portable
soupe, some merchandize and cloathing. Capt. C. gave Sergt. Pryor a
doze of salts this morning and employed Sharbono in rendering the
buffaloe tallow which had been collected there, he obtained a
sufficient quantity to fill three empty kegs. Capt. C. also scelected
the articles to be deposited in the cash consisting of my desk which I
had left for that purpose and in which I had left some books, my
specimens of plants minerals &c. collected from fort Mandan to that
place. also 2 Kegs of Pork, 1/2 a Keg of flour 2 blunderbushes, 1/2 a
keg of fixed ammunition and some other small articles belonging to the
party which could be dispenced with. deposited the swivel and carriage
under the rocks a little above the camp near the river. great numbers
of buffaloe still continue to water daily opposite the camp. The
antelopes still continue scattered and seperate in the plains. the
females with their young only of which they generally have two, and the
males alone. Capt. Clarke measured the rout from the Camp at the
Whitebear Islands to the lower camp which is as follows.-
[Clark, June 26, 1805]
June 26th Wednesday 1805
Some rain last night this morning verry Cloudy the party Set out this
morning verry early with their loads to the Canoe Consisting of Parched
meal Pork Powder Lead axes, Tools Bisquit, P. Soup & Some Merchendize &
Clothes &c. &c. I gave Serjt. Pryor a dolt of Salts, & Set Chabonah to
trying up the Buffalow tallow & put into the empty Kegs &c. I assort
our articles for to be left at this place buried, ____ Kegs of Pork,
1/2 a Keg of flour, 2 blunderbuts, ____ Caterrages a few Small
lumbersom articles Capt Lewiss Desk and Some books & Small articles in
it
The wind from the N. W. verry worm flying Clouds in the evening the
wind Shifted round to the East & blew hard, which is a fair wind for
the two Canoes to Sail on the Plains across the portage, I had three
Kegs of Buffalow Grease tried up. Great numbers of Buffalow opposite to
our Camp watering to day.
[Lewis, June 27, 1805]
Thursday June 27th 1805.
The party returned early this morning for the remaining canoe and
baggage; Whitehouse was not quite well this morning I therefore
detained him and about 10 A.M. set him at work with Frazier sewing the
skins together for the boat; Shields and Gass continued the operation
of shaving and fiting the horizontall bars of wood in the sections of
the boat; the timber is so crooked and indifferent that they make but
little progress, for myself I continued to act the part of cook in
order to keep all hands employed. some Elk came near our camp and we
killed 2 of them at 1 P.M. a cloud arrose to the S. W. and shortly
after came on attended with violent Thunder Lightning and hail &c. (see
notes on diary of the weather for June). soon after this storm was over
Drewyer and J. Fields returned. they were about 4 miles above us during
the storm, the hail was of no uncommon size where they were. They had
killed 9 Elk and three bear during their absence; one of the bear was
the largest by far that we have yet seen; the skin appear to me to be
as large as a common ox. while hunting they saw a thick brushey bottom
on the bank of the river where from the tracks along shore they
suspected that there were bare concealed; they therefore landed without
making any nois and climbed a leaning tree and placed themselves on
it's branches about 20 feet above the ground, when thus securely fixed
they gave a hoop and this large bear instantly rushed forward to the
place from whence he had heard the human voice issue, when he arrived
at the tree he made a short paus and Drewyer shot him in the head. it
is worthy of remark that these bear never climb. the fore feet of this
bear measured nine inches across and the hind feet eleven and--3/4 in
length & exclusive of the tallons and seven inches in width. a bear
came within thirty yards of our camp last night and eat up about thirty
weight of buffaloe suit which was hanging on a pole. my dog seems to be
in a constant state of alarm with these bear and keeps barking all
night. soon after the storm this evening the water on this side of the
river became of a deep crimson colour which I pesume proceeded from
some stream above and on this side. there is a kind of soft red stone
in the bluffs and bottoms. of the gullies in this neighbourhood which
forms this colouring matter.--At the lower camp. Capt. Clark completed
a draught of the river with the couses and distances from the entrance
of the Missouri to Ft. Mandan, which we intend depositing here in order
to guard against accedents. Sergt. Pryor is somewhat better this
morning. at 4 P.M. the party returned from the upper camp; Capt. C.
gave them a drink of grog; they prepared for the labour of the next
day. soon after the party returned it began to rain accompanyed by some
hail and continued a short time; a second shower fell late in the
evening accompanyed by a high wind from N. W.--the mangled carcases of
several buffaloe pass down the river today which had no doubt perished
in the falls.
[Clark, June 27, 1805]
June 27th Thursday 1805
a fair warm morning wind from the S, E, and moderate. Serjt. Pryor
Something better this morning, I proceed to finish a rough draugh of
the river & Distances to leave at this place, the wormest day we have
had this year, at 4 oClock the Party returned from the head of the
portage Soon after it began to hail and rain hard and continued for a
fiew minits & Ceased for an hour and began to rain again with a heavy
wind from the N W. I refresh the men with a drink of grog The river
beginning to rise a little the water is Coloured a redish brown, the
Small Streams, discharges in great torrents, and partake of the Choler
of the earth over which it passes-a great part of which is light & of a
redish brown. Several Buffalow pass drowned & in passing over the falls
Cloudy all night, Cold
[Lewis, June 28, 1805]
Friday June 28th 1805.
Set Drewyer to shaving the Elk skins, Fields to make the cross stays
for the boat, Frazier and Whitehouse continue their operation with the
skins, Shields and Gass finish the horizontal bars of the sections;
after which I sent them in surch of willow bark, a sufficient supply of
which they now obtained to bind the boat. expecting the party this
evening I prepared a supper for them but they did not arrive. not
having quite Elk skins enough I employed three buffaloe hides to cover
one section. not being able to shave these skins I had them singed
pretty closely with a blazeing torch; I think they will answer
tolerable well. The White bear have become so troublesome to us that I
do not think it prudent to send one man alone on an errand of any kind,
particularly where he has to pass through the brush. we have seen two
of them on the large Island opposite to us today but are so much
engaged that we could not spare the time to hunt them but will make a
frolick of it when the party return and drive them from these islands.
they come close arround our camp every night but have never yet
ventured to attack us and our dog gives us timely notice of their
visits, he keeps constantly padroling all night. I have made the men
sleep with their arms by them as usual for fear of accedents. the river
is now about nine inches higher than it was on my arrival. lower Camp.
early this morning Capt. C. dispatched the remaining canoe with some
baggage to the top of the plain above Portage creek three miles in
advance; some others he employed in carrying the articles to the cash
and depositing them and others to mend the carriages which wer somewhat
out of repair. this being accomplished he loaded the two carriages with
the remaining baggage and set out with all the party and proceeded on
with much difficulty to the canoe in the plain. portage creek had
arisen considerably and the water was of crimson colour and illy
tasted. on his arrival at the canoe he found there was more baggage
than he could possibly take at one load on the two sets of trucks and
therefore left some barrels of pork & flour and a few heavy boxes of
amunition which could not well be injured, and proceeded with the canoe
& one set of trucks loaded with baggage to willow run where he encamped
for the night, and killed two buffaloe to subsist the party. soon after
his arrival at willow run he experienced a hard shower of rain which
was succeeded by a violent wind from the S. W. off the snowy mountains,
accompanyed with rain; the party being cold and wet, he administered
the consolation of a dram to each.
[Clark, June 28, 1805]
June 28th Friday 1805
a fair morning wind from the South I dispatch the remaining Canoe with
baggage in her to the top of the Hill three miles, imploy Some hands in
Carrying those things we intend to deposit to the Carsh or hole, Some
to repareing one of the trucks &c. &c. the water is riseing and of a
redish brown Cholour after Covering the Carshe & loading the two
Carrges with the remaining part of our Baggage we all Set out passed
the Creek which had rose a little and the water nearly red, and bad
tasted, we assended the hill to the place the Canoe lay with great
labour, at the Canoe at which place we left Some boxes & Kegs of Pork &
flour for another Load, and proceeded on with the Canoe & what baggage
we could draw on the wheels to willow run 6 miles where we Camped, this
run mearly Some water remaining in holes &c. Soon after we halted we
had a Shower, and at dark we expereinced a most dredfull wind from off
the Snow Mountains to the S. W. accompd. with rain which continued at
intervales all night men wet. I refreshed them with a dram. Killed 2
Buffalow. Great nos. about
[Lewis, June 29, 1805]
Saturday June 29th 1805.
This morning we experienced a heavy shower of rain for about an hour
after which it became fair. not having seen the large fountain of which
Capt. Clark spoke I determined to visit it today as I could better
spare this day from my attention to the boat than probably any other
when the work would be further advanced; accordingly after seting the
hands at their several employments I took Drewyer and seet out for the
fountain and passed through a level beautiful plain for about Six miles
when I reached the brake of the river hills here we were overtaken by a
violent gust of wind and rain from the S. W. attended with thunder and
Litning. I expected a hail storm probably from this cloud and therefore
took refuge in a little gully wher there were some broad stones with
which I purposed protecting my head if we should have a repetition of
the seene of the 27th but fortunately we had but little hail and that
not large; I sat very composedly for about an hour without sheter and
took a copious drenching of rain; after the shower was over I continued
my rout to the fountain which I found much as Capt. C; had discribed &
think it may well be retained on the list of prodegies of this
neighbourhood towards which, nature seems to have dealt with a liberal
hand, for I have scarcely experienced a day since my first arrival in
this quarter without experiencing some novel occurrence among the party
or witnessing the appearance of some uncommon object. I think this
fountain the largest I ever beheld, and the hadsome cascade which it
affords over some steep and irregular rocks in it's passage to the
river adds not a little to it's beauty. it is about 25 yds. from the
river, situated in a pretty little level plain, and has a suddon decent
of about 6 feet in one part of it's course. the water of this fountain
is extreemly tranparent and cold; nor is it impregnated with lime or
any other extranious matter which I can discover, but is very pure and
pleasent. it's waters marke their passage as Capt. Clark observes for a
considerable distance down the Missouri notwithstanding it's rapidity
and force. the water of the fountain boil up with such force near it's
center that it's surface in that part seems even higher than the
surrounding earth which is a firm handsom terf of fine green grass.
after amusing myself about 20 minutes in examining the fountain I found
myself so chilled with my wet cloaths that I determined to return and
accordingly set out; on our way to camp we found a buffaloe dead which
we had shot as we came out and took a parsel of the meat to camp it was
in very good order; the hump and tongue of a fat buffaloe I esteem
great delicasies. on my arrival at camp I was astonished not to find
the party yet arrived, but then concluded that probably the state of
the praries had detained them, as in the wet state in which they are at
present the mud sticks to the wheels is such manner that they are
obliged to halt frequently and clense them. Transaction and
occurrencies which took place with Capt. Clark and party today.
Shortly after the rain which fell early this morning he found it
imposseble from the state of the plains for the party to reach the
upper extremity of the portage with their present load, and therefore
sent back almost all of the party to bring the baggage which had been
left behind yesterday. he determined himself to pass by the way of the
river to camp in order to supply the deficiency of some notes and
remarks which he had made as he first ascended the river but which he
had unfortunately lost. accordingly he left one man at Willow run to
guard the baggage and took with him his black man York, Sharbono and
his indian woman also accompanyed Capt. C. on his arrival at the falls
he perceived a very black cloud rising in the West which threatened
immediate rain; he looked about for a shelter but could find none
without being in great danger of being blown into the river should the
wind prove as violent as it sometimes is on those occasions in these
plains; at length about a 1/4 of a mile above the falls he discovered a
deep rivene where there were some shelving rocks under which he took
shelter near the river with Sharbono and the Indian woman; laying their
guns compass &c. under a shelving rock on the upper side of the rivene
where they were perfectly secure from the rain. the first shower was
moderate accompanyed by a violent rain the effects of which they did
but little feel; soon after a most violent torrent of rain decended
accompanyed with hail; the rain appeared to decend in a body and
instantly collected in the rivene and came down in a roling torrent
with irrisistable force driving rocks mud and everything before it
which opposed it's passage, Capt. C. fortunately discovered it a moment
before it reached them and seizing his gun and shot pouch with his left
hand with the right he assisted himself up the steep bluff shoving
occasionaly the Indian woman before him who had her child in her arms;
Sharbono had the woman by the hand indeavouring to pull her up the hill
but was so much frightened that he remained frequently motionless and
but for Capt. C. both himself and his woman and child must have
perished. so suddon was the rise of the water that before Capt C could
reach his gun and begin to ascend the bank it was up to his waist and
wet his watch; and he could scarcely ascend faster than it arrose till
it had obtained the debth of 15 feet with a current tremendious to
behold. one moment longer & it would have swept them into the river
just above the great cataract of 87 feet where they must have
inevitably perished. Sarbono lost his gun shot pouch, horn, tomahawk,
and my wiping rod; Capt. Clark his Umbrella and compas or
circumferenter. they fortunately arrived on the plain safe, where they
found the black man, York, in surch of them; york had seperated from
them a little while before the storm, in pursuit of some buffaloe and
had not seen them enter the rivene; when this gust came on he returned
in surch of them & not being able to find them for some time was much
allarmed. the bier in which the woman carrys her child and all it's
cloaths wer swept away as they lay at her feet she having time only to
grasp her child; the infant was therefore very cold and the woman also
who had just recovered from a severe indisposition was also wet and
cold, Capt C. therefore relinquished his intended rout and returned to
the camp at willow run in order also to obtain dry cloathes for himself
and directed them to follow him. on Capt. Clark's arrival at camp he
found that the party dispatched for the baggage had returned in great
confusion and consternation leaving their loads in the plains; the men
who were all nearly naked and no covering on the head were sorely
mawled with the hail which was so large and driven with such force by
the wind that it nocked many of them (town and one particulary as many
as three times most of them were bleeding freely and complained of
being much bruised. willow run raised about 6 feet with this rain and
the plains were so wet they could do nothing more this evening. Capt.
C. gave the party a dram to console them in some measure for their
general defeat.
[Clark, June 29, 1805]
Junne 29th Saltarday 1805
a little rain verry early this morning after Clear, finding that the
Prarie was So wet as to render it impossible to pass on to the end of
the portage, deturmined to Send hack to the top of the hill at the
Creek for the remaining part of the baggage left at that place
yesterday, leaveing one man to take care of the baggage at this place.
I deturmined any Self to proceed on to the falls and take the river,
according we all Set out., I took my Servent & one man Chabono our
Interpreter & his Squar accompanied, Soon after I arrived at the falls,
I perceived a Cloud which appeared black and threaten imediate rain, I
looked out for a Shelter but Could See no place without being in great
danger of being blown into the river if the wind Should prove as
turbelant as it is at Some times about 1/4 of a mile above the falls I
obsd a Deep rivein in which was Shelveing rocks under which we took
Shelter near the river and placed our guns the Compass &c. &c. Under a
Shelveing rock on the upper Side of the Creek, in a place which was
verry Secure from rain, the first Shower was moderate accompanied with
a violent wind, the effects of which we did not feel, Soon after a
torrent of rain and hail fell more violent than ever I Saw before, the
rain fell like one voley of water falling from the heavens and gave us
time only to get out of the way of a torrent of water which was Poreing
down the hill in the rivin with emence force tareing every thing before
it takeing with it large rocks & mud, I took my gun & Shot pouch in my
left hand, and with the right Scrambled up the hill pushing the
Interpreters wife (who had her Child in her arms) before me, the
Interpreter himself makeing attempts to pull up his wife by the hand
much Scared and nearly without motion--we at length retched the top of
the hill Safe where I found my Servent in Serch of us greatly agitated,
for our wellfar-. before I got out of the bottom of the revein which
was a flat dry rock when I entered it, the water was up to my waste &
wet my watch, I Scrcely got out before it raised 10 feet deep with a
torrent which turrouble to behold, and by the time I reached the top of
the hill, at least 15 feet water, I directed the party to return to the
Camp at the run as fast as possible to get to our lode where Clothes
Could be got to Cover the Child whose Clothes were all lost, and the
woman who was but just recovering from a Severe indispostion, and was
wet and Cold, I was fearfull of a relaps I caused her as also the
others of the party to take a little Spirits, which my Servent had in a
Canteen, which revived verry much. on arrival at the Camp on the willow
run-met the party who had returned in great Confusion to the run
leaveing their loads in the Plain, the hail & wind being So large and
violent in the plains, and them naked, they were much brused, and Some
nearly killed one knocked down three times, and others without hats or
any thing on their heads bloodey & Complained verry much; I refreshed
them with a little grog--Soon after the run began to rise and rose 6
feet in a few minits-. I lost at the river in the torrent the large
Compas, an eligant fusee, Tomahawk Humbrallo, Shot pouh, & horn wih
powder & Ball, mockersons, & the woman lost her Childs Bear & Clothes
bedding &c.--The Compass is a Serious loss; as we have no other large
one. The plains are So wet that we Can do nothing this evining
particilarly as two deep reveins are between ourselves & Load
====================
[Lewis, June 30, 1805]
Sunday June 30th 1805.
We had a heavy dew this morning which is a remarkable event. Fraizer
and Whitehouse still continue their opperation of sewing the skins
together. I set Shields and gass to shaving bark and Fields continued
to make the cross brases. Drewyer and myself rendered a considerable
quantity of tallow and cooked. I begin to be extremely impatient to be
off as the season is now waisting a pace nearly three months have now
elapsed since we left Fort Mandan and not yet reached the Rocky
Mountains I am therefore fully preswaded that we shall not reach Fort
Mandan again this season if we even return from the ocean to the Snake
Indians. wherever we find timber there is also beaver; Drewyer killed
two today. There are a number of large bat or goatsucker here I killed
one of them and found that there was no difference between them and
those common to the U States; I have not seen the leather winged bat
for some time nor is there any of the small goatsuckers in this quarter
of the country. we have not the whip-poor-will either. this last is by
many persons in the U States confounded with the large goat-sucker or
night-hawk as it is called in the Eastern States, and are taken for the
same bird. it is true that there is a great resemblance but they are
distinct species of the goatsucker. here the one exists without the
other. the large goat sucker lays it's eggs in these open plains
without the preperation of a nest we have found their eggs in several
instances they lay only two before they set nor do I beleive that they
raise more than one brood in a season; they have now just hatched their
young.--This evening the bark was shaved and the leather covering for
the sections were also completed and I had them put into the water, in
order to toughen the bark, and prepare the leather for sewing on the
sections in the morning. it has taken 28 Elk skins and 4 Buffaloe skins
to complete her. the crossbars are also finished this evening; we have
therefore only the way strips now to obtain in order to complete the
wood work, and this I fear will be a difficult task. The party have not
returned from the lower camp I am therefore fearfull that some uncommon
accedent has happened.