We set out at an early hour this morning and proceed on principally by

the chord untill about 9 A.M. when a fine breeze sprung up from the S.

E. and enabled us though the ballance of the day to employ our sails to

advantage; we proceed at a pretty good pace notwithstanding the courant

of the river was very strong. we passed two large and four small

Islands; also several streams on either side; the first of these is a

large Creek or small river which disinboged on the Stard. side about

11/2 miles above our encampment of last evening, it is 30 yards wide

and contains some water. the bed is gravley and intermixed with some

stone, it takes its rise in the mountains which are situated in a

Northwardly direction from its entrance, distant about 30 miles. the

air is so pure in this open country that mountains and other elivated

objects appear much nearer than they really are; these mountains do not

appear to be further than 15 m. we sent a man up this creek to explore

the country he returned late in the evening and informed that he had

proceeded ten miles directly towards these mountains and that he did

not think himself by any mean half way these mountains are rockey and

covered with some scattering pine. This stream we call North Mountain

creek. the next stream in order is a creek which falls in on Lard. 21/2

miles higher; this is 15 yds. wide no water; a large village of the

burrowing or barking squirrels on the Stard. side opposite it's

entrance, hence the name Little dog Ck. that being the name by which

the French Engages call this anamal. at three miles and at 10 ms. from

hence still ascending 2 Small creek fall in on the Stard. side, no

water. 51/2 miles higher a small river falls in on Lard. side this we

called South Mountain creek as from it's direction it appeared to take

it's rise in a range of Mountains lying in a S. Westerly direction from

it's entrance distant 50 or 60 m.; this creek is 40 yards wide and

discharges a handsome stream of water. it's bed is rockey with gravel

and sand, the banks high and country broken it's bottom narrow and no

timber. The country high and broken, a considerable portion of black

rock and brown sandy rock appear in the faces of the hills; the tops of

the hills covered with scattering pine spruce and dwarf cedar; the soil

poor and sterile, sandy near the tops of the hills, the whole producing

but little grass; the narrow bottoms of the Missouri producing little

else but Hysop or southern wood and the pulpy leafed thorn. Capt. Clark

walked on shore this evening and killed a buffaloe cow, we left 2

Canoes and six men to dress the Cow and bring on the meat, they did not

overtake us this evening. game is becoming more scarce, particularly

beaver, of which we have seen but few for several days the beaver

appears to keep pace with the timber as it declines in quantity they

also become more scarce.

[Clark, May 24, 1805]

May 24th Friday 1805

a Cold night the water in the Small vestles frosed 1/8 of an inch

thick, and the thermometer Stood this morning at the freesing point. we

Set out at an early hour and proceeded on, at 9 oClock we had a Breeze

from the S E which Continued all day. This Breeze afforded us good

Sailing, the river rising fast Current verry rapid. passed Several

Small Islands, two large & two Small Creeks, the 1st of those Creeks or

Small rivers 11/2 m. above our Camp is 30 yards wide and Contains water

and appears to take its rise in the North Mountns. which is Situated in

a northerley detection about 20 miles distant. 21/2 m. higher a Creek

falls in on the Lard. Side, opposit a large village of Barking

Squirels. 3 miles Still higher a Small Creek falls in on the Stard. 13

miles higher up a Small river falls in on the Lard Side which is 40

yards wide and has running water. This Stream appears to take its rise

in the South Mountains which is Situated in a Southerly direction 30 or

40 miles distant. I walked on the high countrey on the Stard. Side

found it broken & Dry Some pine, Spruce & Dwarf Cedar on the hill

sides, I Sent one man 10 mile out he reports a Similarity of Countrey

back I killed a fat buffalow a Short distance below the place we dined

2 Canoes & 6 men we left to get the meat did not join us this evening.

we Camped on the Lard point. the Cotton wood in this point is beginning

to put out a Second bud, the first being killed by the frost

[Lewis, May 25, 1805]

Saturday May 25th 1805.

The Two canoes which we left behind yesterday to bring on the meat did

not arrive this morning untill 8 A M. at which time we set out; the

wind being against us we did not proceed with so much ease or

expedition as yesterday, we imployed the toe line principally which the

banks favored the uce off; the courant strong particularly arround the

points against which the courant happened to set, and at the entrances

of the little gullies from the hills, those rivulets having brought

down considerable quantities of stone and deposited it at their

entrances forming partial barriers to the water of the river to the

distance of 40 or 50 feet from the shore, arround these the water run

with great violence, and compelled us in some instances to double our

force in order to get a perorogue or canoe by them. as we ascended the

river today I saw several gangs of the bighorned Anamals on the face of

the steep bluffs and clifts on the Stard. side and sent drewyer to kill

one which he accomplished; Capt. Clark and Bratton who were on shore

each killed one of these anamals this evening. The head and horns of

the male which Drewyer killed weighed 27 lbs. it was somewhat larger

than the male of the common deer, the boddy reather thicker deeper and

not so long in proportion to it's hight as the common deer; the head

and horns are remakably large compared with the other part of the

anamal; the whole form is much more delicate than that of the common

goat, and there is a greater disparity in the size of the male and

female than between those of either the deer or goat. the eye is large

and prominant, the puple of a deep sea green and small, the iris of a

silvery colour much like the common sheep; the bone above the eye is

remarkably prominant; the head nostrils and division of the upper lip

are precisely in form like the sheep. there legs resemble the sheep

more than any other animal with which I am acquainted tho they are more

delicately formed, like the sheep they stand forward in the knee and

the lower joint of the foreleg is smallest where it joins the knee, the

hoof is black & large in proportion, is divided, very open and roundly

pointed at the toe, like the sheep; is much hollowed and sharp on the

under edge like the Scotch goat, has two small hoofs behind each foot

below the ankle as the goat sheep and deer have. the belley, inside of

the legs, and the extremity of the rump and butocks for about two

inches arround the but of the tale, are white, as is also the tale

excet just at it's extremity on the upper side which is of a dark

brown. the tail is about three inches in length covered with short

hair, or at least not longer than that of the boddy; the outher parts

of the anamal are of a duskey brown or reather a leadcoloured light

brown; the anamal is now sheding it's winter coat which is thick not

quite as long as that of the deer and appears to be intermixed with a

considerable quantity of a fine fur which lyes next to the skin &

conceald by the coarcer hear; the shape of the hair itself is celindric

as that of the antelope is but is smaller shorter, and not compressed

or flattened as that of the deer's winter coat is, I believe this

anamal only sheds it's hair once a year. it has eight fore teeth in the

under jaw and no canine teeth. The horns are lagest at their base, and

occupy the crown of the head almost entirely. they are compressed, bent

backwards and lunated; the surface swelling into wavy rings which

incircleing the horn continue to succeed each other from the base to

the extremity and becoming less elivated and more distant as they

recede from the head. the horn for about two thirds of it's length is

filled with a porus bone which is united with the frontal bone. I

obtained the bones of the upper part of the head of this animal at the

big bone lick. the horns of the female are small, but are also compress

bent backwards and incircled with a succession of wavy rings. the horn

is of a light brown colour; when dressed it is almost white extreemly

transparent and very elastic. this horn is used by the natives in

constructing their bows; I have no doubt but it would eligant and

ucefull hair combs, and might probably answer as many valuable purposes

to civilized man, as it dose to the savages, who form their watercups

spoons and platters of it. the females have already brought forth their

young indeed from the size of the young I suppose that they produce

them early in March. they have from one to two at a birth. they feed on

grass but principally on the arromatic herbs which grow on the clifts

and inaccessable hights which they usually frequent. the places they

gerally celect to lodg is the cranies or cevices of the rocks in the

faces of inacessable precepices, where the wolf nor bear can reach them

and where indeed man himself would in many instancies find a similar

deficiency; yet these anamals bound from rock to rock and stand

apparently in the most careless manner on the sides of precipices of

many hundred feet. they are very shye and are quick of both sent and

sight.

At the distance of two 3/4 miles above our encampment of last evening

we passed a Creek 20 yard wide affording no runing water, we also

passed 7 Islands in the course of the day. The Country on either hand

is high broken and rockey; the rock is either soft brown sand stone

covered with a thin strata of limestone, or a hard black rugged

grannite, both usually in horizontal stratas and the Sandy rock

overlaying the other.--Salts and quarts still appear, some coal and

pumice stone also appear; the river bottoms are narrow and afford

scarcely any timber. the bars of the river are composed principally of

gravel, but little pine on the hills. We saw a Pole-cats this evening

it is the first we have seen for many days. buffalow are now scarce and

I begin to fear our harvest of white puddings are at an end.

[Clark, May 25, 1805]

May 25th Satturday 1805"

The two Canoes left for meat yesterday did not joint us untill 8 oClock

this morning at which time we Set out, the morning Cool & pleasent wind

a head all day from the S. W. we pass a Creek on the Lard. Side about

20 yards wide, which does not run, we also passd 7 Islands, I walked on

Shore and killed a female Ibex or big horn animal in my absence Drewyer

& Bratten killed two others, this animale is a species peculiar to this

upper part of the Missouri, the head and horns of the male which

Drewyer killed to day weighed 27 lbs it was Somewhat larger than the

Mail of the Common Deer;) The body reather thicker deeper and not So

long in proportion to its hight as the common Deer; the head and horns

of the male are remarkably large Compared with the other parts of the

animal; the whole form is much more delicate than that of the common

goat, and there is a greater disparity in the Size of the mail and

female than between those of either the deer or goat. the eye is large

and prominant, the puple of a deep Sea green and Small, the iris of a

Silvery Colour much like the common Sheep; the bone above the Eye is

remarkably prominant; the head nostrils and division of the upper lip

are precisely in form like the Sheep. their legs resemble the Sheep

more than any other animal with which I am acquainted tho they are more

delicately formed, like the Sheep they stand foward in the Knee and the

lower joint of the fore leg is Smallest where it joins the Knee, the

hoof is black and large in perpotion, is divided, very open and roundly

pointed at the toe; like the Sheep; is much hollowed and Sharp on the

under edge like the Scotch goat, has two Small Hoofs behind each foot

below the ankle as the goat Sheep and Deer have. the belley, iner Side

of the legs, and the extremity of the rump and buttocks for about two

inches 1/2 around the but of the tail, are white, as is also the tail

except just at its extremity on the upper Side which is of a dark

brown. the tail is about 3 inches in length covered with Short hair, or

at least not longer than that of the boddy; the outer part of the

animal are of a duskey brown or reather a lead coloured light brown;

the animal is now Sheding its winter coat which is thick not quite as

long as that of the Deer and appears to be inter mixt with a

considerable quantity of fine fur which lies next to the Skin and

concealed by the Coarcer hair; the Shape of the hair itself is

cylindric as that of the Antilope is, but is Smaller, Shorter and not

Compressed or flattened as that of the deers winter Coat is. I believe

this animal only Sheds it's hair once a year. it has Eight fore teeth

in the underjaw and no canine teeth. The Horns are large at their base,

and occupy the Crown of the head almost entirely, they are compressed,

bent backwards and lunated; the Surface Swelling into wavey rings which

incircleing the horn continue to Succeed each other from the base to

the extremity and becomeing less elivated and more distant as they

receed from the head. The horn for about two thirds of its length is

filled with a porus bone which is united with the frontal bone (Capt.

Lewis obtained the bones of the upper part of the head of this Animal

at the big Bone Lick in the State of Kentucky which I Saw and find to

be the Same in every respect with those of the Missouri and the Rockey

Mountains) the horns of the female are Small, but are also compressed

and bent backwards and incircled with a Succession of wavy rings. the

horn is of a light brown Colour; when Dressed it is almost white

extreamly transparent and very elastic. this horn is used by the nativs

in constructing their bows; I have no doubt of it's elegance and

usefullness in hair Combs, and might probably answer as maney valuable

purpoces to civilized man, as it does to the native indians, who form

their water Cups, Spoons and platters of it. the females have already

brought forth their young indeed from the Size of the young, I Suppose

that they produce them early in March. they have from one to two at a

birth. they feed on grass, but principally on the arramatic herbs which

grow on the Clifts and inaccessable hights which they frequent most

commonly, and the places they generally collect to lodge is the Cranies

or Cevices of the rocks in the face of inaccessable precepices, where

the wolf nor Bear Can reach them, and where indeed man himself would in

maney instances find a Similar deficiency; yet those animals bound from

rock to rock and Stand apparently in the most Careless manner on the

Side of precipices of maney hundred feet. they are very Shy and quick

of both Sent and Sight. The flesh of this animal is dark and I think

inferior to the flesh of the Common Deer, and Superior to the antilope

of the Missouri and the Columbian Plains-. In my walk of this day I saw

mountts. on either side of the river at no great distance, those

mountains appeared to be detached, and not ranges as laid down by the

Minetarrees, I also think I saw a range of high mounts. at a great

distance to the S S W. but am not certain as the horozon was not clear

enough to view it with Certainty. The country on either side is high

broken and rockey a dark brown hard rugid Stone intermixed with a Soft

white Sand Stone. the hills contain Coal or cabonated wood as below and

Some Scattering pumistone. the Sides of the river is bordered with

coars gravel, which in maney places have washed either together or down

Small brooks and forms bars at Some distance in the water, around which

the current passes with great valocity. the bottoms between hills and

river are narrow and Contain Scercely any timber. The appearence of

Salts, and bitumun Still Continue. we Saw a polecat to day being the

first which we have Seen for Some time past. The Air of this quarter is

pure and helthy. the water of the Missouri well tasted not quite So

muddy as it is below, not withstanding the last rains has raised the

river a little it is less muddy than it was before the rain.

[Lewis, May 26, 1805]

Sunday May 26th 1805.

Set out at an early hour and proceeded principally by the toe line,

using the oars mearly to pass the river in order to take advantage of

the shores. scarcely any bottoms to the river; the hills high and

juting in on both sides, to the river in many places. the stone

tumbleing from these clifts and brought down by the rivulets as

mentioned yesterday became more troublesome today. the black rock has

given place to a very soft sandstone which appears to be washed away

fast by the river, above this and towards the summits of the hills a

hard freestone of a brownish yellow colour shews itself in several

stratas of unequal thicknesses frequently overlain or incrusted by a

very thin strata of limestone which appears to be formed of concreted

shells. Capt. Clark walked on shore this morning and ascended to the

summit of the river hills he informed me on his return that he had seen

mountains on both sides of the river runing nearly parrallel with it

and at no great distance; also an irregular range of mountains on lard.

about 50 mes. distant, the extremities of which boar W and N. W. from

his station. he also saw in the course of his walk, some Elk, several

herds of the Big horn, and the large hare; the latter is common to

every part of this open country. scarcely any timber to be seen except

the few scattering pine and spruce which crown the high hills, or in

some instances grow along their sides. In the after part of the day I

also walked out and ascended the river hills which I found sufficiently

fortiegueing. on arriving to the summit one of the highest points in

the neighbourhood I thought myself well repaid for any labour; as from

this point I beheld the Rocky Mountains for the first time, I could

only discover a few of the most elivated points above the horizon, the

most remarkable of which by my pocket compass I found bore N. 65° W.

being a little to the N. of the N. W. extremity of the range of broken

mountains seen this morning by Capt. C. these points of the Rocky

Mountains were covered with snow and the sun shone on it in such manner

as to give me the most plain and satisfactory view. while I viewed

these mountains I felt a secret pleasure in finding myself so near the

head of the heretofore conceived boundless Missouri; but when I

reflected on the difficulties which this snowey barrier would most

probably throw in my way to the Pacific, and the sufferings and

hardships of myself and party in them, it in some measure

counterballanced the joy I had felt in the first moments in which I

gazed on them; but as I have always held it a crime to anticipate evils

I will believe it a good comfortable road untill I am compelled to

beleive differently. saw a few Elk & bighorns at a distance on my

return to the river I passed a creek about 20 yds. wide near it's

entrance it had a handsome little stream of runing water; in this creek

I saw several softshelled Turtles which were the first that have been

seen this season; this I believe proceeded reather from the season than

from their non existence in the portion of the river from the Mandans

hither. on the Stard. shore I killed a fat buffaloe which was very

acceptable to us at this moment; the party came up to me late in the

evening and encamped for the night on the Lard. side. it was after dark

before we finished butchering the buffaloe, and on my return to camp I

trod within five inches of a rattle snake but being in motion I passed

before he could probably put himself in a striking attitude and

fortunately escaped his bite, I struck about at random with my

espontoon being directed in some measure by his nois untill I killed

him. Our hunters had killed two of the Bighorned Anamals since I had

left them. we also passed another creek a few miles below Turtle Creek

on the Stard. 30 yds in width which also had runing water bed rockey.-

late this evening we passed a very bad rappid which reached quite

across the river, the party had considerable difficulty in ascending it

altho they doubled their crews and used both the rope and the pole.

while they were passing this rappid a female Elk and it's fawn swam

down throught the waves which ran very high, hence the name of Elk

rappids which they instantly gave this place, these are the most

considerable rappids which we have yet seen on the missouri and in

short the only place where there has appeared to be a suddon decent.

opposite to these rappids there is a high bluff and a little above on

Lard. a small cottonwood bottom in which we found sufficient timber for

our fires and encampment. here I rejoined the party after dark. The

appearances of coal in the face of the bluffs, also of birnt hills,

pumice stone salt and quarts continue as yesterday. This is truly a

desert barren country and I feel myself still more convinced of it's

being a continuation of the black hills. we have continued every day to

pass more or less old stick lodges of the Indians in the timbered

points, there are two even in this little bottom where we lye.-

[Clark, May 26, 1805]

May 26th Sunday 1805

We Set out early and proceeded as yesterday wind from the S. W. the

river enclosed with very high hills on either Side. I took one man and

walked out this morning, and ascended the high countrey to view the

mountains which I thought I Saw yesterday, from the first Sumit of the

hill I could plainly See the Mountains on either Side which I Saw

yesterday and at no great distance from me, those on the Stard Side is

an errigular range, the two extremities of which bore West and N. West

from me. those Mountains on the Lard. Side appeared to be Several

detached Knobs or mountains riseing from a leven open Countrey, at

different distances from me, from South West to South East, on one the

most S. Westerly of those Mountains there appeared to be Snow. I

crossed a Deep holler and assended a part of the plain elevated much

higher than where I first viewed the above mountains; from this point I

beheld the Rocky Mountains for the first time with Certainty, I could

only discover a fiew of the most elivated points above the horizon. the

most remarkable of which by my pocket Compas I found bore S. 60 W.

those points of the rocky Mountain were Covered with Snow and the Sun

Shown on it in Such a manner as to give me a most plain and

Satisfactory view. whilst I viewed those mountains I felt a Secret

pleasure in finding myself So near the head of the heretofore Conceived

boundless Missouri; but when I reflected on the difficulties which this

Snowey barrier would most probably throw in my way to the Pacific

Ocean, and the Sufferings and hardships of my Self and party in them,

it in Some measure Counter ballanced the joy I had felt in the first

moments in which I gazed on them; but as I have always held it little

Short of Criminality to anticipate evils I will allow it to be a good

Comfortable road untill I am Compelled to believe otherwise The high

Country in which we are at present and have been passing for Some days

I take to be a continuation of what the Indians as well as the French

Engages call the Black hills. This tract of Country So Called Consists

of a Collection of high broken and irregular hills and Short Chains of

Mountains, sometimes 100 miles in width and again becoming much

narrower, but always much higher than the Country on either Side; they

commence about the head of the Kanzas river and to the west of that

river near the Arkansaw river, from whence they take their Cource a

little to the west of N. W. approaching the Rocky Mountains obliquely

passing the river Platt near the forks, and intersepting the River

Rochejhone near the big bend of that river, and passing the Missouri at

this place-, and probably Continueing to Swell the Country as far North

as the Saskashawan river. tho they are lower here than they are

discribed to the South and may therefore termonate before they reach

the Saskashawan. the Black hills in their Course northerly appear to

approach more nearly the Rocky Mountains. I Saw a great number of white

brant, also the common brown brant, Geese of the common Size & kind and

a Small Species of geese, which differs considerably from the Common or

Canadian Goose; their necks, head and backs are considerably thicker,

Shorter and larger than the other in propotion to its Size they are

also more than a third Smaller, and their note more like that of the

brant or young goose which has not perfectly acquired his note, in all

other respect they are the Same in Colour habits and the number of

feathers in the tail, they frequently also ascocate with the large

Geese when in flocks, but never Saw them pared off with the larger or

common goose. The white Brant ascocates in very large flocks, they do

not appear to be mated or pared off as if they intended to raise their

young in this quarter, I therefore doubt whether they reside here

dureing the Summer for that purpose. this bird is larger than the

Common brown brant or 2/3 of the common goose. it is not So long by Six

inches from point to point of the wings when extended as the other; the

back head and neck are also larger and Stronger; their beak, legs and

feet are of a redish flesh coloured white. the eye of a moderate Size,

the puple of a deep Sea green encircled with a ring of yellowish brown.

it has 16 feathers of equal length in the tail their note differs but

little from the Common brant. they are of a pure white except the large

feathers of the 1st and 2d joint of the wings which are jut black.

The country which borders the river is high broken and rocky, generally

imbeded with a Soft Sand Stone higher up the hill the Stone is of a

brownish yellow hard and gritty those Stones wash down from the hills

into the river and cause the Shore to be rocky &c. which we find

troublesom to assend there is Scerce any bottom between the Hills &

river and but a fiew trees to be Seen on either Side except Scattering

pine on the Sides of the emence hills; we passed 2 Creeks on the Stard

Side both of them had running water in one of those Creek Capt Lewis

tells me he saw Soft Shell Turtle Capt Lewis in his walk killed a fat

Buffalow which we were in want of our hunters killed 2 Mountain rams or

bighorns in the evening late we passed a rapid which extended quite

across the river we assended it by the assistance of a Cord & poles on

the Lard. Side the Cliffs jut over, the opposit Side is a Small leavel

bottom, we Camped a little above in a Small grove of Cotton trees on

the Lard. Side in the rapid we saw a Dow Elk & her faun, which gave

rise to the name of Elk & faun Riffle we had a few drops of rain at

Dark.--the Salts Coal & Burnt hills & Pumicston Still Continue, game

Scerce this Countrey may with propriety I think be termed the Deserts

of America, as I do not Conceive any part can ever be Settled, as it is

deficent in water, Timber & too Steep to be tilled. We pass old Indian

lodges in the woody points everry day & 2 at our camp &c

[Lewis, May 26, 1805]

May 26, 1805.

One of the party killed a bighorned, the head and horns of which

weighed 27 lbs. a hare was also killed which weighed 81/2 lbs. the hare

are now of a plale lead brown colour-

[Lewis, May 27, 1805]

Monday May 27th 1805.

The wind blew so hard this morning that we did not sent out untill 10

A.M. we employed the chord most of the day; the river becomes more

rappid and is intercepted by shoals and a greater number of rocky

points at the mouths of the little gulies than we experienced

yesterday. the bluffs are very high steep rugged, containing

considerable quantities of stone and border the river closely on both

sides; once perhaps in the course of several miles there will be a few

acres of tolerably level land in which two or thre impoverished

cottonwood trees will be seen. great quantities of stone also lye in

the river and garnish it's borders, which appears to have tumbled from

the bluffs where the rains had washed away the sand and clay in which

they were imbeded. the bluffs are composed of irregular tho horizontal

stratas of yellow and brown or black clay, brown and yellowish white

sand, of soft yellowish white sand stone and a hard dark brown free

stone, also of large round kidneyformed and irregular seperate masses

of a hard black Iron stone, which is imbeded in the Clay and sand. some

little pine spruce and dwarf cedar on the hills. some coal or

carbonated wood still makes it's appearance in these bluffs,

pumicestone and birnt hills it's concommutants also are seen. the salts

and quarts are seen but not in such abundance. the country more broken

and barren than yesterday if possible. about midday it was very warm to

this the high bluffs and narrow channel of the river no doubt

contributed greatly. we passed a small untimbered Island this morning

on the Lard. side of the river just above our encampment of last

evening. saw a few small herds of the Bighorned anamals and two Elk

only, of the last we killed one, the river is generally about 200 yds.

wide, very rappid and has a perceptable fall or declination through

it's whole course.

This evening we encamped, for the benefit of wood, near two dead toped

cottonwood trees on the Lard. side; the dead limbs which had fallen

from these trees furnished us with a scanty supply only, and more was

not to be obtained in the neighbourhood.-

[Clark, May 27, 1805]

May 27th Monday 1805.

The wind blew hard from the S W. which detained us untill about 10

oClock, at which time we Set out and proceeded on, passed a Small

nacked Island on the Lard Side imediately above the timber in which we

Camped The river is verry Shoaley and the bad places are verry

numerous, i e at the mouth of every Drean the rocks which is a hard

dark gritey Stone is thrown out Some distance in the river which Cause

a Considerable riffle on that Side, the hills approach the river verry

Close on either Side, river narrow & no timber except Some Scattering

pine on the hills & hill Sides, the Salts, Coal, burn hills & Pumice

Stone &c. Continue, the hills are Generally Bluffs of various Coloured

earth most commonly black with different quallities stone intermixed

Some Stratums of Soft Sand Stone, Some hard, Some a dark brown & yellow

hard grit, those Stones are loosened by the earths washing from them

into the river and ultimately role down into the river, which appears

to be Crowded with them. This day is verry worm--we only Saw a fiew

Small herds of the big horn animals on the hills, and two Elk one of

which We killed, we Camped at 2 dead top trees on the Lard Side. The

river is Genly about 200 yards wide and Current very Swift to day and

has a verry perceptiable fall in all its Course--it rises a little.

[Lewis, May 28, 1805]

Tuesday May 28th 1805.

This morning we set forward at an early hour; the weather dark and

cloudy, the are smokey, had a few drops of rain; we employed the chord

generally to which we also gave the assistance of the pole at the

riffles and rocky points; these are as numerous and many of them much

worse than those we passed yesterday; arround those points the water

drives with great force, and we are obliged in many instaces to steer

our vessels through the appertures formed by the points of large sharp

rocks which reach a few inches above the surface of the water, here

sould our chord give way the bough is instantly drivin outwards by the

stream and the vessel thrown with her side on the rocks where she must

inevitably overset or perhaps be dashed to peices; our ropes are but

slender, all of them except one being made of Elk's skin and much

woarn, frequently wet and exposed to the heat of the weather are weak

and rotten; they have given way several times in the course of the day

but happily at such places that the vessel had room to wheel free of

the rocks and therefore escaped injury; with every precaution we can

take it is with much labour and infinite risk that we are enabled to

get around these points. found a new indian lodge pole today which had

been brought down by the stream, it was woarn at one end as if draged

by dogs or horses; a football also, and several other articles were

found, which have been recently brought down by the courant; these are

strong evedences of Indians being on the river above us, and probably

at no great distance; the football is such as I have seen among the

Minetaries and therefore think it most probable that they are a band of

the Minetaries of Fort de Prarie. the river country &c continued much

as yesterday untill late in the evening when we arrived at the entrance

of a large Creek discharges itself on the Stard. side, is 35 Yd. wide

and contains runing water; here the hills recede from the river on both

sides, the bottoms extensive particularly on the Stard. side where the

hills are comparitively low and open into three large vallies which

extend for a considerable distance in a Northwardly direction; here

also the river spreads to more than 3 times it's former width and is

filled with a number of small and handsome Islands covered with

cottonwood some timber also in the bottoms, the land again fertile.

These appearances were quite reviving after the drairy country through

which we had been passing. Capt. C. walked on shore in the early part

of the day and killed a big horned anamal; he saw a great number of

them as well as ourselves in the broken country. at 10 A.M. a few drops

of rain again fell and were attended with distant thunder which is the

first we have heated since we left the Mandans.--This evening we

encamped on Stard. opposite to the entrance of a small Creek. I beleive

the bighorn have their young at a very early season, say early in March

for they appear now to be half grown. One of the party saw a very large

bear today but being some distance from the river and no timber to

conceal him he did not think proper to fire on him.

[Clark, May 28, 1805]

May 28th Tuesday 1805

a Cloudy morning Some fiew drops of rain and verry Smokey wind from the

S. W. we Set out at an early hour, the Shoaley places are verry

numerous and Some bad to get around we have to make use of the Cord &

Poles, and our tow. ropes are all except one of Elkskin, & Stretch and

Sometimes brake which indanger the Perogues or Canoe, as it imedeately

turns and if any rock Should chance to be below, the rapidity of the

current would turn her over, She Should chance to Strike the rock we

observe great Caution at those places.

I walked on Shore found the Countrey ruged and as described yesterday,

I Saw great numbers of the Big horned animals, one of which I killed

their fauns are nearly half grown--one of the Party Saw a verry large

bear, picked up on the Shore a pole which had been made use of by the

Nativs for lodge poles, & haul'd by dogs it is new and is a Certain

Sign of the Indians being on the river above a foot ball and Several

other articles are also found to Substantiate this oppinion-. at 1

oClock we had a few drops of rain and Some thunder whic is the first

thunder we have had Sinc we Set out from Fort Mandan; at 10 miles the

the hills begin to widen & the river Spreds & is crouded with Islands

the bottoms Contain Some Scattering Cotton wood the Islands also

Contain timber--passed a Creek of running water on the Stard Side about

35 yards wide and camped imedeately opposit to a Small Creek on the

Lard. Side we call Bull Creek from the Circumstance of a Buffalow Bull

swiming from the opposit Side and comeing out of the river imedeately

across one of the Perogues without Sinking or injureing any thing in

the Perogue, and passing with great violence thro our Camp in the night

makeing 3 angles without hurting a man, altho they lay in every

direction, and it was very dark The Creek below 35 yards wide I call

Thompsons Creek after a valuable member of our party--this Creek

contains a Greater preportion of running water than Common.

[Lewis, May 29, 1805]

Wednesday May 29th 1905.

Last night we were all allarmed by a large buffaloe Bull, which swam

over from the opposite shore and coming along side of the white

perogue, climbed over it to land, he then alarmed ran up the bank in

full speed directly towards the fires, and was within 18 inches of the

heads of some of the men who lay sleeping before the centinel could

allarm him or make him change his course, still more alarmed, he now

took his direction immediately towards our lodge, passing between 4

fires and within a few inches of the heads of one range of the men as

they yet lay sleeping, when he came near the tent, my dog saved us by

causing him to change his course a second time, which he did by turning

a little to the right, and was quickly out of sight, leaving us by this

time all in an uproar with our guns in or hands, enquiring of each

other the case of the alarm, which after a few moments was explained by

the centinel; we were happy to find no one hirt. The next morning we

found that the buffaloe in passing the perogue had trodden on a rifle,

which belonged to Capt. Clark's black man, who had negligently left her

in the perogue, the rifle was much bent, he had also broken the

spindle, pivit, and shattered the stock of one of the bluntderbushes on

board, with this damage I felt well content, happey indeed, that we had

sustaned no further injury. it appears that the white perogue, which

contains our most valuable stores, is attended by some evil gennii.

This morning we set out at an early hour and proceded as usual by the

Chord. at the distance of 21/2 miles passed a handsome river which

discharged itself on the Lard. side, I walked on shore and acended this

river about a mile and a half in order to examine it. I found this

river about 100 yds. wide from bank to bank, the water occupying about

75 yard. the bed was formed of gravel and mud with some sand; it

appeared to contain much more water as the Muscle-Shell river, was more

rappid but equally navigable; there were no large stone or rocks in

it's bed to obstruct the navigation; the banks were low yet appeared

seldom to overflow; the water of this River is Clear than any we have

met with great abundance of the Argalia or Bighorned animals in the

high country through which this river passes Cap. C who assended this

R. much higher than I did has thought proper to call it Judieths River.

The bottoms of this stream as far as I could see were wider and

contained more timber than the Missouri; here I saw some box alder

intermixed with the Cottonwood willow rose bushes and honeysuckle with

some red willow constitute the undergrowth. on the Missouri just above

the entrance of the Big Horn River I counted the remains of the fires

of 126 Indian lodges which appeared to be of very recent date perhaps

12 or 15 days. Capt. Clark also saw a large encampent just above the

entrance of this river on the Stard. side of reather older date,

probably they were the same Indians. The Indian woman with us exmined

the mockersons which we found at these encampments and informed us that

they were not of her nation the Snake Indians, but she beleived they

were some of the Indians who inhabit the country on this side of Rocky

Mountains and North of the Missoury and I think it most probable that

they were the Minetaries of Fort de Prarie. At the distance of six 1/2

ms. from our encampment of last night we passed a very bad rappid to

which we gave the name of the Ash rappid from a few trees of that wood

growing near them; this is the first ash I have seen for a great

distance. at this place the hills again approach the river closely on

both sides, and the same seen which we had on the 27th and 28th in the

morning again presents itself, and the rocky points and riffles reather

more numerous and worse; there was but little timber; salts coal &c

still appear. today we passed on the Stard. side the remains of a vast

many mangled carcases of Buffalow which had been driven over a

precipice of 120 feet by the Indians and perished; the water appeared

to have washed away a part of this immence pile of slaughter and still

their remained the fragments of at least a hundred carcases they

created a most horrid stench. in this manner the Indians of the

Missouri distroy vast herds of buffaloe at a stroke; for this purpose

one of the most active and fleet young men is scelected and disguised

in a robe of buffaloe skin, having also the skin of the buffaloe's head

with the years and horns fastened on his head in form of a cap, thus

caparisoned he places himself at a convenient distance between a herd

of buffaloe and a precipice proper for the purpose, which happens in

many places on this river for miles together; the other indians now

surround the herd on the back and flanks and at a signal agreed on all

shew themselves at the same time moving forward towards the buffaloe;

the disguised indian or decoy has taken care to place himself

sufficiently nigh the buffaloe to be noticed by them when they take to

flight and runing before them they follow him in full speede to the

precepice, the cattle behind driving those in front over and seeing

them go do not look or hesitate about following untill the whole are

precipitated down the precepice forming one common mass of dead an

mangled carcases; the decoy in the mean time has taken care to secure

himself in some cranney or crivice of the clift which he had previously

prepared for that purpose. the part of the decoy I am informed is

extreamly dangerous, if they are not very fleet runers the buffaloe

tread them under foot and crush them to death, and sometimes drive them

over the precepice also, where they perish in common with the

buffaloe.--we saw a great many wolves in the neighbourhood of these

mangled carcases they were fat and extreemly gentle, Capt. C. who was

on shore killed one of them with his espontoon. just above this place

we came too for dinner opposite the entrance of a bold runing river 40

yds. wide which falls in on Lard. side. this stream we called slaughter

river. it's bottoms are but narrow and contain scarcely any timber. our

situation was a narrow bottom on the Stard. possessing some cottonwood.

soon after we landed it began to blow & rain, and as there was no

appearance of even wood enough to make our fires for some distance

above we determined to remain here untill the next morning, and

accordingly fixed our camp and gave each man a small dram.

notwithstanding the allowance of sperits we issued did not exceed 1/2

pn. man several of them were considerably effected by it; such is the

effects of abstaining for some time from the uce of sperituous liquors;

they were all very merry.--The hunters killed an Elk this evening, and

Capt. C. killed two beaver.

[Clark, May 29, 1805]

May 29th Wednesday 1805

In the last night we were alarmed by a Buffalow which Swam from the

opposit Shore landed opposit the Perogue in which Capt Lewis & my Self

were in he Crossed the perogue, and went with great force up to the

fire where Several men were Sleeping and was 18 inches of their heads,

when one man Sitting up allarmed him and he turned his course along the

range of men as they lay, passing between 4 fires and within a fiew

Inches of Some of the mens heads as they lay imediately in a direction

to our lodge about which Several men were lying. our Dog flew out & he

changed his course & passed without doeing more damage than bend a

rifle & brakeing hir Stock and injureying one of the blunder busts in

the perogue as he passed through--We Set out this morning at the usial

hour & proceeded on at 21/2 miles passed the mouth of a river ____

yards wide, discharging a great quantity of water, and Containing more

wood in its bottoms than the Missouri--this river Capt Lewis walked up

for a Short distance & he Saw an old encampment of Indians (I also saw

large encampment on the Stard Side at the mouth of a Small Creek of

about 100 Lodges which appeared to be 5 or 6 weeks past, the Indian

woman examined the mockersons &c. and told us they were the Indians

which resided below the rocky mountains & to the North of this

river,that her nation make their mockersons differently) at 61/2 miles

passed a considerable rapid at which place the hills approach near the

river on both Sides, leaveing a narrow bottom on the Stard. Side, (ash

rapid) and continue Close all day but little timber, I walked on the

bank in the evening and saw the remains of a number of buffalow, which

had been drove down a Clift of rocks I think from appearances that

upwards of 100 of those animals must have perished here, Great numbers

of wolves were about this place & verry jentle I killed one of them

with my Spear. The hills above ash rapid Contains more rock and Coal,

and the more rapid points. we Came too for Dinner opposit the enterence

of a Small river which falls in on the Lard Side and is about ____

yards wide, has a bold running Stream, Soon after we Came too it began

to rain & blow hard, and as we were in a good harbor & Small point of

woods on the Stard Side, and no timber for some distance above, induced

us to conclude to Stay all night. we gave the men a dram, altho verry

Small it was Sufficent to effect Several men. one of our hunters killed

an elk this evening--I killed 2 beaver on the Side of the bank a table

Spoon full of water exposed to the air in a Saucer would avaperate in

36 hours when the mercury did not Stand higher than the temperate point

in the heat of the day.

[Lewis, May 30, 1805]

Thursday May 30th 1805.

The rain which commenced last evening continued with little

intermission untill 11this morning when we set out; the high wind which

accompanied the rain rendered it impracticable to procede earlyer. more

rain has now fallen than we have experienced since the 15th of

September last. many circumstances indicate our near approach to a

country whos climate differs considerably from that in which we have

been for many months. the air of the open country is asstonishingly dry

as well as pure. I found by several experiments that a table spoon full

of water exposed to the air in a saucer would avaporate in 36 hours

when the murcury did not stand higher than the temperate point at the

greatest heat of the day; my inkstand so frequently becoming dry put me

on this experiment. I also observed the well seasoned case of my

sextant shrunk considerably and the joints opened. The water of the

river still continues to become clearer and notwithstanding the rain

which has fallen it is still much clearer than it was a few days past.

this day we proceded with more labour and difficulty than we have yet

experienced; in addition to the imbarrasments of the rappid courant,

riffles, & rockey point which were as bad if not worse than yesterday,

the banks and sides of the bluff were more steep than usual and were

now rendered so slippery by the late rain that the men could scarcely

walk. the chord is our only dependance for the courant is too rappid to

be resisted with the oar and the river too deep in most places for the

pole. the earth and stone also falling from these immence high bluffs

render it dangerous to pass under them. the wind was also hard and

against us. our chords broke several times today but happily without

injury to the vessels. we had slight showers of rain through the course

of the day, the air was could and rendered more disagreeable by the

rain. one of the party ascended the river hills and reported on his

return that there was snow intermixed with the rain which fell on the

hights; he also informed us that the country was level a little back

from the river on both sides. there is now no timber on the hills, an

only a few scattering cottonwood, ash, box Alder and willows to be seen

along the river. in the course of the day we passed several old

encampment of Indians, from the apparent dates of which we conceived

that they were the several encampments of a band of about 100 lodges

who were progressing slowly up the river; the most recent appeared to

have been evacuated about 5 weeks since. these we supposed to be the

Minetares or black foot Indians who inhabit the country watered by the

Suskashawan and who resort to the establishment of Fort de Prarie, no

part of the Missouri from the Minetaries to this place furnishes a

perminent residence for any nation yet there is no part of it but what

exhibits appearances of being occasionally visited by some nation on

hunting excurtions. The Minnetares of the Missoury we know extend their

excurtions on the S. side as high as the yellowstone river; the

Assinniboins still higher on the N. side most probably as high as about

Porcupine river and from thence upwards most probably as far as the

mountains by the Minetares of Fort de Prarie and the Black Foot Indians

who inhabit the S. fork of the Suskashawan. I say the Missouri to the

Rocky mountains for I am convinced that it penetrates those mountains

for a considerable distance.--Two buffaloe killed this evening a little

above our encampment.

[Clark, May 30, 1805]

May 30th Thursday 1805

The rain conmmenced yesterday evining, and continued moderately through

the course of the night, more rain has now fallin than we have

experienced Since the 15th of September last, the rain continued this

morning, and the wind too high for us to proceed, untill about 11

oClock at which time we Set out, and proceeded on with great labour, we

were obliged to make use of the Tow rope & the banks were So muddey &

Slipery that the men could Scercely walk not with Standing we proceeded

on as well as we could wind hard from the N W. in attempting to assend

a rapid our toe Cord broke & we turned without injurey, those rapids or

Shoaley points are noumerous and dificuelt, one being at the mouth of

every drean Some little rain at times all day one man assended the high

Countrey and it was raining & Snowing on those hills, the day has

proved to be raw and Cold. Back from the river is tollerably leavel, no

timber of any kind on the hills, and only a fiew Scattering cotton

willow & ash near the river, much hard rock; & rich earth, the Small

portion of rain which has fallen causes the rich earth as deep as is

wet to Slip into the river or bottoms &c.

we discover in Several places old encampments of large bands of

Indians, a fiew weeks past and appear to be makeing up the river--Those

Indians we believe to be the Blackfoot Inds. or Menetares who inhabit

the heads of the Saskashowin & north of this place and trade a little

in the Fort de Prarie establishments. we Camped in a grove of Cotton

trees on the Stard Side, river rise 11/2 In.

[Lewis, May 31, 1805]

Friday May 31st 1805.

This morning we proceeded at an early hour with the two perogues

leaving the canoes and crews to bring on the meat of the two buffaloe

that were killed last evening and which had not been brought in as it

was late and a little off the river. soon after we got under way it

began to rain and continued untill meridian when it ceased but still

remained cloudy through the ballance of the day. The obstructions of

rocky points and riffles still continue as yesterday; at those places

the men are compelled to be in the water even to their armpits, and the

water is yet very could, and so frequent are those point that they are

one fourth of their time in the water, added to this the banks and

bluffs along which they are obliged to pass are so slippery and the mud

so tenacious that they are unable to wear their mockersons, and in that

situation draging the heavy burthen of a canoe and walking ocasionally

for several hundred yards over the sharp fragments of rocks which

tumble from the clifts and garnish the borders of the river; in short

their labour is incredibly painfull and great, yet those faithfull

fellows bear it without a murmur. The toe rope of the white perogue,

the only one indeed of hemp, and that on which we most depended, gave

way today at a bad point, the perogue swung and but slightly touched a

rock, yet was very near overseting; I fear her evil gennii will play so

many pranks with her that she will go to the bottomm some of those

days.--Capt. C. walked on shore this morning but found it so

excessively bad that he shortly returned. at 12 OCk. we came too for

refreshment and gave the men a dram which they received with much

cheerfullness, and well deserved.

The hills and river Clifts which we passed today exhibit a most

romantic appearance. The bluffs of the river rise to the hight of from

2 to 300 feet and in most places nearly perpendicular; they are formed

of remarkable white sandstone which is sufficiently soft to give way

readily to the impression of water; two or thre thin horizontal stratas

of white free-stone, on which the rains or water make no impression,

lie imbeded in these clifts of soft stone near the upper part of them;

the earth on the top of these Clifts is a dark rich loam, which forming

a graduly ascending plain extends back from 1/2 a mile to a mile where

the hills commence and rise abruptly to a hight of about 300 feet more.

The water in the course of time in decending from those hills and

plains on either side of the river has trickled down the soft sand

clifts and woarn it into a thousand grotesque figures, which with the

help of a little immagination and an oblique view at a distance, are

made to represent eligant ranges of lofty freestone buildings, having

their parapets well stocked with statuary; collumns of various

sculpture both grooved and plain, are also seen supporting long

galleries in front of those buildings; in other places on a much nearer

approach and with the help of less immagination we see the remains or

ruins of eligant buildings; some collumns standing and almost entire

with their pedestals and capitals; others retaining their pedestals but

deprived by time or accident of their capitals, some lying prostrate an

broken othes in the form of vast pyramids of connic structure bearing a

sereis of other pyramids on their tops becoming less as they ascend and

finally terminating in a sharp point. nitches and alcoves of various

forms and sizes are seen at different hights as we pass. a number of

the small martin which build their nests with clay in a globular form

attatched to the wall within those nitches, and which were seen

hovering about the tops of the collumns did not the less remind us of

some of those large stone buildings in the U States. the thin stratas

of hard freestone intermixed with the soft sandstone seems to have

aided the water in forming this curious scenery. As we passed on it

seemed as if those seens of visionary inchantment would never have and

end; for here it is too that nature presents to the view of the

traveler vast ranges of walls of tolerable workmanship, so perfect

indeed are those walls that I should have thought that nature had

attempted here to rival the human art of masonry had I not recollected

that she had first began her work. These walls rise to the hight in

many places of 100 feet, are perpendicular, with two regular faces and

are from one to 12 feet thick, each wall retains the same thickness at

top which it possesses at bottom. The stone of which these walls are

formed is black, dence and dureable, and appears to be composed of a

large portion of earth intermixed or cemented with a small quantity of

sand and a considerable portion of talk or quarts. these stones are

almost invariably regular parallelepipeds, of unequal sizes in the

walls, but equal in their horizontal ranges, at least as to debth.

these are laid regularly in ranges on each other like bricks, each

breaking or covering the interstice of the two on which it rests. thus

the purpendicular interstices are broken, and the horizontal ones

extend entire throughout the whole extent of the walls. These stones

seem to bear some proportion to the thickness of the walls in which

they are employed, being larger in the thicker walls; the greatest

length of the parallelepiped appears to form the thickness of the

thiner walls, while two or more are employed to form that of the

thicker walls. These walls pass the river in several places, rising

from the water's edge much above the sandstone bluffs, which they seem

to penetrate; thence continuing their course on a streight line on

either side of the river through the gradually ascending plains, over

which they tower to the hight of from ten to seventy feet until) they

reach the hills, which they finally enter and conceal themselves. these

walls sometimes run parallel to each other, with several ranges near

each other, and at other times interscecting each other at right

angles, having the appearance of the walls of ancient houses or

gardens. I walked on shore this evening and examined these walls

minutely and preserved a specimine of the stone. I found the face of

many of the river hills formed of Clifts of very excellent free stone

of a light yellowish brown colour; on these clifts I met with a species

of pine which I had never seen, it differs from the pitchpine in the

particular of it's leaf and cone, the first being vastly shorter, and

the latter considerably longer and more pointed. I saw near those

bluffs the most beautiful) fox that I ever beheld, the colours appeared

to me to be a fine orrange yellow, white and black, I endevoured to

kill this anamal but it discovered me at a considerable distance, and

finding that I could get no nearer, I fired on him as he ran, and

missed him; he concealed himself under the rocks of the clift; it

appeared to me to be about the size of the common red fox of the

Atlantic states, or reather smaller than the large fox common to this

country; convinced I am that it is a distinct species. The appearance

of coal continues but in small quantities, but little appearance of

birnt hills or pumice stones the mineral salts have in some measure

abated and no quarts. we saw a great number of the Bighorn some mule

deer and a few buffaloe and Elk, no antelopes or common deer. Drewyer

who was with me and myself killed two bighorned anamals; the sides of

the Clifts where these anamals resort much to lodg, have the peculiar

smell of the sheepfolds. the party killed in addition to our hunt 2

buffaloe and an Elk. the river today has been from 150 to 250 yds. wide

but little timber today on the river.

[Clark, May 31, 1805]

May 31st Friday 1805.

A cloudy morning we dispatched all the Canoes to Collect the meat of 2

Buffalow killed last night a head and a little off the river, and

proceeded on with the perogues at an early hour. I attempted to walk on

Shore Soon found it verry laborious as the mud Stuck to my mockersons &

was verry Slippery. I return'd on board. it continued to rain

moderately untill about 12 oClock when it ceased, & Continued Cloudy.

the Stone on the edge of the river continue to form verry Considerable

rapids, which are troublesom & dificuelt to pass, our toe rope which we

are obliged to make use of altogether broke & we were in Some danger of

turning over in the perogue in which I was, we landed at 12 and

refreshed the men with a dram, our men are obliged to under go great

labour and fatigue in assending this part of the Missouri, as they are

compelled from the rapidity of the Current in many places to walk in

the water & on Slippery hill Sides or the Sides of rocks, on Gravel &

thro a Stiff mud bear footed, as they Cannot keep on Mockersons from

the Stiffness of the mud & decline of the Slipy. hills Sides--the Hills

and river Clifts of this day exhibit a most romantick appearance on

each Side of the river is a white Soft Sand Stone bluff which rises to

about half the hight of the hills, on the top of this Clift is a black

earth on points, in maney places this Sand Stone appears like antient

ruins some like elegant buildings at a distance, Some like Towers &c.

&c. in maney places of this days march we observe on either Side of the

river extraodanary walls of a black Semented Stone which appear to be

regularly placed one Stone on the other, Some of those walls run to the

hite of 100 feet, they are from about 1 foot to 12 feet thick and are

perpendicular, those walls Commence at the waters edge & in Some places

meet at right angles--those walls appear to Continue their Course into

the Sand Clifts, the Stones which form those walls are of different

Sizes all Squar edged, Great numbers has fallen off from the walls near

the river which cause the walls to be of uneaquil hite, in the evening

the Countrey becomes lower and the bottoms wider, no timber on the

uplands, except a few Cedar & pine on the Clifts a few Scattering

Cotton trees on the points in the river bottoms, The apparance of Coal

Continus Capt Lewis walked on Shore & observed a Species of Pine we had

never before Seen, with a Shorter leaf than Common & the bur different,

he also Collected Some of the Stone off one of the walls which appears

to be a Sement of Isin glass black earth we Camped on the Stard Side in

a Small timbered bottom above the mouth of a Creek on the Stard Side

our hunters killed, 2 animals with big horns, 2 Buffalow & an Elk, we

Saw Great numbers of those big horned animals on the Clifts, but fiew

Buffalow or Elk, no antelope, a fiew mule deer, Saw a fox to day. The

river rises a little it is from 150 to 250 yds. wide

[Clark, May 31, 1805]

May 31st Friday 1805

Cloudy morning, we proceeded on at an early hour with the two Perogues

leaving the Canoes and crews to bring on the meat of two Buffalow that

were killed last evening and which had not been brought in as it was

late and a little off the river. Soon after we got under way it began

to rain and Continued untill 12 oClock when it Seased but Still

remained cloudy through the ballance of the day. the obstructions of

rocky points and riffles Still continue as yesterday; at those places

the men are compelled to be in the water even to their armpits, and the

water is yet very cold, and So frequent are those points that they are

one fourth of their time in the water. added to this the bank and bluff

along which they are obliged to pass are So Slippery and the mud So

tenatious that they are unable to bare their mockersons, and in that

Situation dragging the heavy burthen of a Canoe and Walking

occasionally for Several hundred yards over the Sharp fragments of

rocks which tumble from the Clifts; and in Short their labour is

incredibly painfull and great, yet those faithfull fellows bear it

without a murmer.

The toe rope of the white perogue, the only one indeed of hemp, and

that on which we most depended, gave way to day at a bad point, the

perogue Swong and but slightly touched a rock, yet was very near

oversetting; I fear her evil Ginnie will play So many pranks with her

that She will go to the bottom Some of those days.

I attempted to walk on Shore this morning but found it so excessivily

bad that I Soon returned on board. at 12 oClock we came too for

refreshment and gave the men a dram which they received with much

Chearfulness, and well deserved all wet and disagreeable. Capt. Lewis

walked on Shore, he informed one that he Saw "the most butifull fox in

the world" the Colour appeared to him to be of a fine Orrange yellow,

white and black, he fired at this fox running and missed him, he

appeared to be about the size of the common red fox of the united

States, or rather smaller.

The hills and river clifts which we pass to day exhibit a most romantic

appearance. The Bluffs of the river rise to the hight of from 2 to 300

feet and in most places nearly perpendicular; they are formed of

remarkable white Sandstone which is Sufficiently Soft to give way

readily to the impression of water; two or three thin horizontal

Stratas of white free Stone, on which the rains or water make no

impression, lie imbeded in those clifts of Soft Stone near the upper

part of them; the earth on the top of these clifts is a dark rich loam,

which forming a gradual ascending plain extend back from 1/2 a mile to

a mile where the hills commence and rise abruptly to the hight of about

300 feet more. The water in the Course of time acecending from those

hills and plains on either Side of the river has trickled down the Soft

Sand Clifts and woarn it into a thousand grotesque figures; which with

the help of a little imagination and an oblique view at a distance are

made to represent elegant ranges of lofty freestone buildings, haveing

their parapets well Stocked with Statuary; Colloms of various

Sculptures both Grooved and plain, are also Seen Supporting long

galleries in part of those buildings; in other places on a much nearer

approach and with the with the help of less immagination we See the

remains of ruins of eligant buildings; Some Collumns Standing and

almost entire with their pedestals and Capitals, others retaining their

pedestals but deprived by time or accedint of their capitals, Some

lying prostrate and broken, others in the form of vast Pyramids of

connic Structure bearing a Serious of other pyramids on their tops

becomeing less as they ascend and finally termonateing in a Sharp

point. nitches and alcoves of various forms and Sizes are Seen at

different hights as we pass. a number of the Small martin which build

their nests with Clay of a globular form attached to the wall within

those nitches, and which were Seen hovering about the top of the

collumns did not the less remind us of Some of those large Stone

buildings in the United States. The thin Stratas of hard free Stone

intermixed with the Soft Sand Stone Seems to have aided the water in

forming this Curious Scenery.

as we passed on it Seemed as if those Seens of Visionary enchantment

would never have an end; for here it is too that nature presents to the

view of the traveler vast ranges of walls of tolerable workmanship, So

perfect indeed are those walls that I Should have thought that nature

had attempted here to rival the human art of Masonry had I not

recollected that She had first began her work. These walls rise to the

hight in many places of 100 feet, are perpindicular, with two regular

faces, and are from one to 12 feet thick, each wall retains the Same

thickness to the top which it possesses at bottom. The Stone of which

these walls are formed is black, dense and dureable, and appears to be

Composed of a large portion of earth intermixed or Cemented with a

Small quantity of Sand and a Considerable portion of quarts. these

Stones are almost invariably regular parallelepipeds, of unequal Sizes

in the wall, but equal in their horizontal ranges, at least as to

debth. These are laid regularly in ranges on each other like bricks,

each breaking or covering this interstice of the two on which it rests,

thus the pirpendicular interstices are broken, and the horizontal ones

extend entire throughout the whole extent of the walls. These Stones

Seam to bear Some proportion to the thickness of the walls in which

they are employd, being larger in the thicker walls; the greatest

length of the parallelepiped appear to form the thickness of the thiner

walls, while two or more are employed to form that of the thicker

walls. Those walls pass the river in Several places rising from the

waters edge much above the Sand Stone Bluffs, which they Seam to

penetrate; thence Continueing their course on a Streight line on either

Side of the river thorough the gradually ascending plains over which

they tower to the hight of from ten to 90 feet untill they reach the

hills which they finally enter and Conceal themselves. these walls

Sometimes run parallel to each other, with Several ranges near each

other, and at other times intersecting each other at right angles,

haveing the appearance of the walls of ancient houses or gardins. both

Capt Lewis and My self walked on Shore this evening and examined those

walls minutely and preserved a Specimine of the Stone.--I found many

clifts of very excellent free Stone of a light yellowish brown Colour.

Capt. Lewis observed a Species of pine which I had never Seen, it

differs from the pitch pine in the particular of its leaf and Cone, the

first being partly Shorter, and the latter considerably longer and more

pointed. The appearance of Coal Continues but in Smaller quantities,

but little appearance of burnt hills or pumicestone. the mineral Salt

in Some measure have abated and no quarts. we Saw a great number of the

Big Horn, Some mule deer, and a few Buffalow and Elk, no antelopes or

Common Deer-. Capt. Lewis killed a Big horn animal. the party killed 2

Buffalow one Elk and a Big horn or Ibex to day-. The river has been

from 150 to 250 yards wide but little timber on the river to day. river

less muddy than it was below.

[Lewis, June 1, 1805]

Saturday June 1st 1805

The moring was cloudy and a few drops of rain. Set out at an early hour

and proceeded as usual by the help of our chords. the river Clifts and

bluffs not so high as yesterday and the country becomes more level. a

mountain or a part of the N. Mountain appears to approach the river

within 8 or 10 ms. bearing N. from our encampment of the last evening.

Capt C. who walked on shore today informed me that the river hills were

much lower than usual and that from the tops of those hills he had a

delightfull view of rich level and extensive plains on both sides of

the river; in those plains, which in many places reach the river

clifts, he observed large banks of pure sand which appeared to have

been driven by the S W. winds from the river bluffs and there

deposited. the plains are more fertile at some distance from the river

than near the bluffs where the surface of the earth is very generally

covered with small smothe pebbles which have the appearance of having

been woarn by the agitation of the waters in which they were no doubt

once immerced. A range of high Mountains appear to the S. W. at a

considerable distance covered with snow, they appear to run Westerly.

no timber appears on the highlands; but much more than yesterday on the

river and Islands. rockey points and shoals less freequent than

yesterday but some of them quite as bad when they did occur. the river

from 2 to 400 yards wide, courant more gentle and still becoming

clearer. game is by no means as abundant as below; we killed one male

bighorn and a mule deer today; saw buffalow at a distance in the plains

particularly near a small Lake on Lard. side about 8 ms. distant. some

few drops of rain again fell this evening. we passed six Islands and

encamped on the 7th; they are all small but contain some timber. the

wind has been against us all day.--I saw the choke cherry the yellow

and red courant bushes; the wild rose appears now to be in full bloom

as are also the prickley pear which are numerous in these plains.--We

also saw some Indian Lodges of sticks today which did not appear to

have been long evacuated.--some coal appear in the bluffs.

[Clark, June 1, 1805]

June 1st Satterday 1805

a Cloudy morning we Set out at an early hour and proseeded on as usial

with the toe rope The Countrey appears to be lower and the Clifts not

So high or Common, a mountain or a part of the north Mountain about 8

or 10 miles N. of this place, I walked on Shore to day found the Plains

much lower than we have Seen them and on the top we behold an extencive

plain on both Sides, in this plain I observed maney noles of fine Sand

which appeared to have blown from the river bluffs and collected at

these points Those plains are fertile near the river a great no. of

Small Stone, I observed at Some distance to the S. W. a high mountain

which appears to bear westerly The Cole appear as usial, more Cotton

trees Scattered on the Shores & Islands than yesterday--no timber on

the high land, the river from 2 to 400 yards wide & current more jentle

than yesterday but fiew bad rapid points to day--the wild animals not

So plenty as below we only killed a ram & mule Deer to day, we Saw

Buffalow at a distance in the plains, particularly near a Lake on the

Lard. Side about 8 miles distant from the river--We passed Six Islands

and encamped on the 7th all those Islands are Small but contain Some

timber on them The river riseing a little Wind to day from the S. W.

Som fiew drops of rain in the morning and also in the evening, flying

Clouds all day

Saw Several Indian camps made of Sticks & bark Set up on end and do not

appear to belong evacuated--The roses are in full bloome, I observe

yellow berries, red berry bushes Great numbers of Wild or choke

Cheries, prickley pares are in blossom & in great numbers

[Lewis, June 2, 1805]

Sunday June 2ed 1805

The wind blew violently last night and was attended by a slight shower

of rain; the morning was fair and we set out at an early hour. imployed

the chord as usual the greater part of the day. the courant was strong

tho regular, and the banks afforded us good toeing. the wind was hard

and against us yet we proceded with infinitely more ease than the two

precedeing days. The river bluffs still continue to get lower and the

plains leveler and more extensive; the timber on the river increases in

quantity; the country in all other rispects much as discribed

yesterday. I think we are now completely above the black hills we had a

small shower of rain today but it lasted only a few minutes and was

very moderate. Game becomeing more abundant this morning and I thought

it best now to loose no time or suffer an opportunity to escape in

providing the necessary quantity of Elk's skins to cover my leather

boat which I now expect I shall be obliged to use shortly. Accordingly

I walked on shore most of the day with some of the hunters for that

purpose and killed 6 Elk 2 buffale 2 Mule deer and a bear. these

anamals were all in good order we therefore took as much of the meat as

our canoes and perogues could conveniently carry. the bear was very

near catching Drewyer; it also pursued Charbono who fired his gun in

the air as he ran but fortunately eluded the vigilence of the bear by

secreting himself very securely in the bushes untill Drewyer finally

killed it by a shot in the head; the shot indeed that will conquer the

farocity of those tremendious anamals.--in the course of the day we

passed 9 Islands all of them small and most of them containing some

timber.

we came too on the Lard. side in a handsome bottom of small cottonwood

timber opposite to the entrance of a very considerable river; but it

being too late to examine these rivers minutely to night we determined

to remain here untill the morning, and as the evening was favourable to

make some obsevations.-

[Clark, June 2, 1805]

June 2nd Sunday 1805

we had a hard wind and a little rain last night, this morning fair we

Set out at an early hour, wind from the S W. Some little rain to day

wind hard a head, the Countrey much like that of yesterday as discribed

Capt Lewis walked on Shore, himself & the hunters killed 6 Elk & a Bear

and 2 mule deer, and 2 buffalow which was all in good order a beaver

also killed to day, passed 9 Islands to day the Current Swift but

regular, we Camped on the Lard Side at the forks of the river the

Currents & Sizes of them we Could not examine this evening a fair night

we took Some Luner observations of moon & Stears

[Lewis, June 3, 1805]

Monday June 3rd 1805

This morning early we passed over and formed a camp on the point formed

by the junction of the two large rivers. here in the course of the day

I continued my observations as are above stated. An interesting

question was now to be determined; which of these rivers was the

Missouri, or that river which the Minnetares call Amahte Arz zha or

Missouri, and which they had discribed to us as approaching very near

to the Columbia river. to mistake the stream at this period of the

season, two months of the traveling season having now elapsed, and to

ascend such stream to the rocky Mountain or perhaps much further before

we could inform ourselves whether it did approach the Columbia or not,

and then be obliged to return and take the other stream would not only

loose us the whole of this season but would probably so dishearten the

party that it might defeat the expedition altogether. convinced we were

that the utmost circumspection and caution was necessary in deciding on

the stream to be taken. to this end an investigation of both streams

was the first thing to be done; to learn their widths, debths,

comparitive rappidity of their courants and thence the comparitive

bodies of water furnished by each; accordingly we dispatched two light

canoes with three men in each up those streams; we also sent out

several small parties by land with instructions to penetrate the

country as far as they conveniently can permiting themselves time to

return this evening and indeavour if possible to discover the distant

bearing of those rivers by ascending the rising grounds. between the

time of my A.M. and meridian Capt. C & myself stroled out to the top of

the hights in the fork of these rivers from whence we had an extensive

and most inchanting view; the country in every derection around us was

one vast plain in which innumerable herds of Buffalow were seen

attended by their shepperds the wolves; the solatary antelope which now

had their young were distributed over it's face; some herds of Elk were

also seen; the verdure perfectly cloathed the ground, the weather was

pleasent and fair; to the South we saw a range of lofty mountains which

we supposed to be a continuation of the S. Mountains, streching

themselves from S. E. to N. W. terminating abbrubtly about S. West from

us; these were partially covered with snow; behind these Mountains and

at a great distance, a second and more lofty range of mountains

appeared to strech across the country in the same direction with the

others, reaching from West, to the N of N. W., where their snowey tops

lost themselves beneath the horizon. this last range was perfectly

covered with snow. the direction of the rivers could be seen but little

way, soon loosing the break of their channels, to our view, in the

common plain. on our return to camp we boar a little to the left and

discovered a handsome little river falling into the N. fork on Lard.

side about 11/2 ms. above our camp. this little river has as much

timber in it's bottoms as either of the larger streams. there are a

great number of prickley pears in these plains; the Choke cherry grows

here in abundance both in the river bottoms and in the steep ravenes

along the river bluffs. saw the yellow and red courants, not yet ripe;

also the goosberry which begins to ripen; the wild rose which grows

here in great abundance in the bottoms of all these rivers is now in

full bloom, and adds not a little to the beaty of the cenery. we took

the width of the two rivers, found the left hand or S. fork 372 yards

and the N. fork 200. The noth fork is deeper than the other but it's

courant not so swift; it's waters run in the same boiling and roling

manner which has uniformly characterized the Missouri throughout it's

whole course so far; it's waters are of a whitish brown colour very

thick and terbid, also characteristic of the Missouri; while the South

fork is perfectly transparent runds very rappid but with a smoth

unruffled surface it's bottom composed of round and flat smooth stones

like most rivers issuing from a mountainous country. the bed of the N.

fork composed of some gravel but principally mud; in short the air &

character of this river is so precisely that of the missouri below that

the party with very few exceptions have already pronounced the N. fork

to be the Missouri; myself and Capt. C. not quite so precipitate have

not yet decided but if we were to give our opinions I believe we should

be in the minority, certain it is that the North fork gives the

colouring matter and character which is retained from hence to the

gulph of Mexico. I am confident that this river rises in and passes a

great distance through an open plain country I expect that it has some

of it's souces on the Eastern side of the rocky mountain South of the

Saskashawan, but that it dose not penetrate the first range of these

Mountains and that much the greater part of it's sources are in a

northwardly direction towards the lower and middle parts of the

Saskashawan in the open plains. convinced I am that if it penetrated

the Rocky Mountains to any great distance it's waters would be clearer

unless it should run an immence distance indeed after leaving those

mountains through these level plains in order to acquire it's turbid

hue. what astonishes us a little is that the Indians who appeared to be

so well acquainted with the geography of this country should not have

mentioned this river on wright hand if it be not the Missouri; the

river that scolds at all others, as they call it if there is in

reallity such an one, ought agreeably to their account, to have fallen

in a considerable distance below, and on the other hand if this

righthand or N. fork be the Missouri I am equally astonished at their

not mentioning the S. fork which they must have passed in order to get

to those large falls which they mention on the Missouri. thus have our

cogitating faculties been busily employed all day.

Those who have remained at camp today have been busily engaged in

dressing skins for cloathing, notwithstanding that many of them have

their feet so mangled and bruised with the stones and rough ground over

which they passed barefoot, that they can scarcely walk or stand; at

least it is with great pain they do either. for some days past they

were unable to wear their mockersons; they have fallen off

considerably, but notwithstanding the difficulties past, or those which

seem now to mennace us, they still remain perfectly cheerfull. In the

evening the parties whom we had sent out returned agreeably to

instructions. The parties who had been sent up the rivers in canoes

informed that they ascended some distance and had then left their

canoes and walked up the rivers a considerable distance further barely

leaving themselves time to return; the North fork was not so rappid as

the other and afforded the easiest navigation of course; Six feet

appeared to be the shallowest water of the S. Branch and 5 feet that of

the N. Their accounts were by no means satisfactory nor did the

information we acquired bring us nigher to the decision of our question

or determine us which stream to take. Sergt. Pryor had ascended the N.

fork and had taken the following courses and distances-viz-

Joseph and Reubin Fields reported that they had been up the South fork

about 7 mes. on a streight course somewhat N of W. and that there the

little river which discharges itself into the North fork just above us,

was within 100 yards of the S. fork; that they came down this little

river and found it a boald runing stream of about 40 yds. wide containg

much timber in it's bottom, consisting of the narrow and wide leafed

cottonwood with some birch and box alder undrgrowth willows rosebushes

currents &c. they saw a great number of Elk on this river and some

beaver. Those accounts being by no means satisfactory as to the

fundamental point; Capt. C. and myself concluded to set out early the

next morning with a small party each, and ascend these rivers untill we

could perfectly satisfy ourselves of the one, which it would be most

expedient for us to take on our main journey to the Pacific.

accordingly it was agreed that I should ascend the right hand fork and

he the left. I gave orders to Sergt. Pryor Drewyer, Shields, Windsor,

Cruzatte and La Page to hold themselves in readiness to accompany me in

the morning. Capt. Clark also selected Reubin &Joseph Fields, Sergt.

Gass, Shannon and his black man York, to accompany him. we agreed to go

up those rivers one day and a halfs march or further if it should

appear necessary to satisfy us more fully of the point in question. the

hunters killed 2 Buffaloe, 6 Elk and 4 deer today. the evening proved

cloudy. we took a drink of grog this evening and gave the men a dram,

and made all matters ready for an early departure in the morning. I had

now my sack and blanket happerst in readiness to swing on my back,

which is the first time in my life that I had ever prepared a burthen

of this kind, and I am fully convinced that it will not be the last. I

take my Octant with me also, this I confide La Page.

[Clark, June 3, 1805]

June 3rd Monday 1805

we formed a Camp on the point in the junction of the two rivers, and

dispatched a Canoe & three men up each river to examine and find if

possible which is the most probable branch, the left fork which is the

largest we are doubtfull of, the Indians do not mention any river

falling in on the right in this part of the Missouri, The Scolding

river, if there is Such a one Should have fallen in below agreeable to

their accts. we also dispatched men in different dircts. by land, to a

mountain Covered with Snow to the South & other up each river--Capt

Lewis and my Self walked out & assended the hill in the point observed

a leavel open Countrey to the foot of the mountains which lye South of

this, also a River which falls into the Right hand fork about 11/2

miles above its mouth on the Lard. Side this little river discharges a

great deal of water & contains as much Cotton timber in its bottoms as

either of the others we saw Buffalow & antelopes &c. wild Cheries, red

& yellow hurries, Goose berries &c. abound in the river bottoms,

prickley pares on the high plains, we had a meridian altitude and the

Lattd. produced was 47° 24' 12" N. the after part of the day proved

Cloudy, we measured each river and found the one to Right hand 200

yards wide of water & the Left hand fork 372 yards wide & rapid--the

right hand fork falling the other at a Stand and Clear, the right fork

and the river which fall into it is Coloured & a little muddey. Several

men Complain of their feet being Sore in walking in the Sand & their

being Cut by the Stones They to be Sure have a bad time of it obliged

to walk on Shore & haul the rope and 9/10 of their time bear footed, in

the evening late the Canoes returned and the men informed us that they

had assended Some miles by water & left their Canoes & walked on land

the greater part of the day, their accounts by no means Satisfactory,

Serjt. Pryor assended the right hand fork and took the following

Courses, &c

Joseph & Rubin Fields went up the left fork 7 miles on a direct line at

which place, the Small river which falls into the right hand fork

approaches within 100 yards of the South fork, they Came down the Small

river which is a bold Stream Covered with Elk & Some beaver, its

bottoms Covered with wood, as the Information given by those parties

respecting the rivers did not Satisfy us as to the main & principal

branch Capt. Lewis & my Self deturmined to go up each of those rivers

one Day & a half with a view to Satisfy ourselves which of the two was

the principal Stream and best calculated for us to assend--The hunters

Killed 2 buffalow, 6 Elk & Several deer to day we refreshed our party

with a dram &c Cloudy evining.-

[Lewis, June 4, 1805]

Tuesday June 4th 1805

This morning early Capt. C. departed, and at the same time I passed the

wright hand fork opposite to our camp below a small Island; from hence

I steered N. 30 W. 41/2 to a commanding eminence; here I took the

following bearings of the mountains which were in view. The North

Mountains appear to change their direction from that of being parallel

with the Missouri turning to the North and terminating abruptly; their

termineation bearing N. 48° E distant by estimate 30 mes. The South

Mountains appear to turn to the S. also terminating abrubtly, their

extremity bearing S. 8 W. distant 25 mes. The Barn Mountain, a lofty

mountain so called from it's resemblance to the roof of a large Barn,

is a seperate Mountain and appears reather to the wright of and

retreating from the extremity of the S. mts.; this boar S. 38 W.

distant 35 ms. The North fork which I am now ascending lies to my left

and appears to make a considerable bend to the N. W. on it's Western

border a range of hills about 10 mes. long appear to lye parallel with

the river and from hence bear N. 60° W. to the N. of this range of hills

an Elivated point of the river bluff on it's Lard. side boar N. 72° W.

distant 12 mes. to this last object I now directed my course through a

high level dry open plain. the whole country in fact appears to be one

continued plain to the foot of the mountains or as far as the eye can

reach; the soil appears dark rich and fertile yet the grass is by no

means as high nor dose it look so luxurient as I should have expected,

it is short just sufficient to conceal the ground. great abundance of

prickly pears which are extreemly troublesome; as the thorns very

readily perce the foot through the Mockerson; they are so numerous that

it requires one half of the traveler's attention to avoid them In these

plains I observed great numbers of the brown Curloos, a small species

of curloo or plover of a brown colour about the size of the common

snipe and not unlike it in form with a long celindric curved and

pointed beak; it's wings are proportionately long and the tail short;

in the act of liteing this bird lets itself down by an extention of

it's wings without motion holding their points very much together above

it's back, in this rispect differing ascentially from any bird I ever

observed. a number of sparrows also of three distinct species I

observed. also a small bird which in action resembles the lark, it is

about the size of a large sparrow of a dark brown colour with some

white fathers in the tail; this bird or that which I take to be the

male rises into the air about 60 feet and supporting itself in the air

with a brisk motion of the wings sings very sweetly, has several shrill

soft notes reather of the plaintive order which it frequently repeats

and varies, after remaining stationary about a minute in his aireal

station he descends obliquely occasionly pausing and accomnying his

decension with a note something like twit twit twit; on the ground he

is silent. thirty or forty of these birds will be stationed in the air

at a time in view, these larks as I shall call them add much to the

gayety and cheerfullness of the scene. All those birds are now seting

and laying their eggs in the plains; their little nests are to be seen

in great abundance as we pass. there are meriads of small grasshoppers

in these plains which no doubt furnish the principal aliment of this

numerous progeny of the feathered creation. after walking about eight

miles I grew thisty and there being no water in the plains I changed my

direction and boar obliquely in towards the river, on my arrival at

which about 3 mes. below the point of observation, we discovered two

deer at feed at some distance near the river; I here halted the party

and sent Drewyer to kill one of them for breakfast; this excellent

hunter soon exceded his orders by killing of them both; they proved to

be two Mule Bucks in fine order; we soon kindled a fire cooked and made

a hearty meal. it was not yet twelve when we arrived at the river and I

was anxious to take the Meridian Altd. of the sun but the clouds prevent

ed my obtaining the observation. after refreshing ourselves we proceded

up the river to the extremity of the first course, from whence the

river boar on it's general course N. 15° W. 2 M. to a bluff point on

Stard. here Drewyer killed four other deer of the common kind; we

skined them and hung up a part of the meat and the skins as we did also

of the first, and took as much of the meat as we thought would answer

for our suppers and proceeded N. 30 W. 2 m. to the entrance of a large

creek on Lard. side the part of the river we have passed is from 40 to

60 yds. wide, is deep, has falling banks, the courant strong, the water

terbid and in short has every appearance of the missouri below except

as to size. it's bottoms narrow but well timbered. Salts coal and other

mineral appearances as usual; the bluffs principally of dark brown,

yellow and some white clay; some freestone also appears in places. The

river now boar N. 20° E. 12 mes. to a bluff on Lard. At the commencement

of this course we ascended the hills which are about 200 feet high, and

passed through the plains about 3 m. but finding the dry ravines so

steep and numerous we determined to return to the river and travel

through it's bottoms and along the foot and sides of the bluffs,

accordingly we again reached the river about 4 miles from the

commencement of the last course and encamped a small distant above on

the Stard. side in a bend among the willow bushes which defended us

from the wind which blew hard from the N. W. it rained this evening and

wet us to the skin; the air was extremely could. just before we

encamped Drewyer fired at a large brown bar across the river and

wounded him badly but it was too late to pursue him. killed a braro and

a beaver, also at the place of our encampment, a very fine Mule deer.

we saw a great number of Buffaloe, Elk, wolves and foxes today. the

river bottoms form one emence garden of roses, now in full bloe.

[Clark, June 4, 1805]

June 4th Tuesday 1805

Capt. Lewis & my Self each with a Small party of men Set out earlythose

who accompanied Capt Lewis were G. Drewyer Serjt. Pryor, J Shields, P.

Crusat J. B. de Page, R. Winser, went up the N. side of the N. fork.

those who accompanied me were Serjt. Gass Jos. & Ruben Fields G.

Shannon & my black man York, and we Set out to examine the South fork,

our first Course was S. 25° W. 7 miles to the S. fork at a Spring, at

which place the little river which falls into the N. fork is 100 yards

distant only Seperated from the South fork by a narrow ridge. our

course from thence S. 20° W. 8 miles to the river at an Island where we

dined below a Small river falls in on the S E Side which heads in a

mountain to the S. E about 20 miles. North of this place about 4 miles

the little river brakes thro a high ridge into the open Leavel plain

thro which we have passd. from the point, this plain is covered with

low grass & prickley pear, emence number of Prarie dogs or barking

Squirel are thro this plain--after eating we proceeded on N. 45° W.

Struck the river at 3 miles 5, 9 & 13 miles at which place we encamped

in an old Indian lodge made of Stiks and bark at the river near our

camp we Saw two white Bear, one of them was nearly catching Joseph

Fields who could not fire, as his gun was wet the bear was So near that

it Struck his foot, and we were not in a Situation to give him

assistance, a Clift of rocks Seperated us the bear got allarmed at our

Shot & yells & took the river.--Some rain all the afternoon Saw Several

Gangues of Buffalow at a distance in the open plains on each Side, Saw

Mule deer antilopes & wolves--The river is rapid & Closely himed on one

or the other Side with high bluffs, Crouded with Islands & graveley

bars Containing but a Small quantity of timber on its bottoms & none on

the high land.

[Lewis, June 5, 1805]

Wednesday June 5th 1805.

This morning was cloudy and so could that I was obleged to have

recourse to a blanket coat in order to keep myself comfortable altho

walking. the rain continued during the greater part of last night. the

wind hard from N. W. we set out at sunrise and proceded up the river

eight miles on the course last taken yesterday evening, at the

extremity of which a large creek falls in on the Stard. 25 yards. wide

at it's entrance, some timber but no water, notwithstanding the rain;

it's course upwards is N. E. it is astonishing what a quantity of water

it takes to saturate the soil of this country, the earth of the plains

are now opened in large crivices in many places and yet looks like a

rich loam from the entrance of this Creek (which I called Lark C.) the

river boar N. 50. W. 4 m. at the entrance of this creek the bluffs were

very steep and approached the river so near on the Stard. side that we

ascended the hills and passed through the plains; at the extremity of

this course we returned to the river which then boar North 2 rues. from

the same point, I discovered a lofty single mountain which appeard to

be at a great distance, perhaps 80 or more miles it boar N. 52 W. from

it's conic figure I called it tower Mountain. we now passed through the

river bottoms to the extremity of the last course thence with the river

S 60° W 11/2 m. S 10 W. 3 m N 50 W 11/2 at the extremity of which I again

ascended the bluffs and took a course to a point of the Lard. bluffs of

the river which boar West 10 m. the river making a deep bend to the

south that is of at least five miles from the center of the chord line

to the center of the bend. on this course we passed through the plains

found the plains as yesterday extreemly leavel and beautifull, great

quanties of Buffaloe, some wolves foxes and Antelopes seen. near the

river the plain is cut by deep ravines in this plain and from one to

nine miles from the river or any water, we saw the largest collection

of the burrowing or barking squirrels that we had ever yet seen; we

passed through a skirt of the territory of this community for about 7

miles. I saw a flock of the mountain cock, or a large species of heath

hen with a long pointed tail which the Indians informed us were common

to the Rockey Mountains, I sent Shields to kill one of them but he was

obliged to fire a long distance at them and missed his aim. as we had

not killed or eat anything today we each killed a burrowing squrrel as

we passed them in order to make shure of our suppers. we again

intersepted the river at the expiration of the last course or the lard.

bluffs, from whence it now boar N 80° W. 2 mes. from this point saw some

other lofty mountains to the N. W. of Tower Mtn. which boar N. 65°W. 80

or 100 mes. distant at the expiration of this course we killed five Elk

and a blacktailed or mule deer and encamped on Stard. side of the river

in a handsome well timbered bottom where there were several old stick

lodges. in the forepart of the day there was but little timber in the

river bottoms but the quantity is now greater than usual. the river is

about 80 yds. wide with a strong steady courant and from 6 to 10 feet

water. I had the burrowing squirrels roasted by way of experiment and

found the flesh well flavored and tender; some of them were very fat.

[Clark, June 5, 1805]

June 5th Wednesday 1805

Some little rain & Snow last night the mountains to our S E. covered

with Snow this morning air verry Cold & raining a little, we Saw 8

buffalow opposit, they made 2 attempts to Cross, the water being So

Swift they Could not, about the time we were Setting out three white

bear approached our Camp we killed the three & eate part of one & Set

out & proceeded on N. 20° W 11 miles.--k the river at maney places in

this distance to a ridge on the N. Side t m the top of which I could

plainly See a mountain to the South & W. covered with Snow at a long

distance, The mountains opposit to us to the S. E. is also Covered with

Snow this morning.--a high ridge from those mountains approach the

river on the S E Side forming Some Clifts of hard dark Stone.--From the

ridge at which place I Struck the river last, I could ____ discover

that the river run west of South a long distance, and has a Strong

rapid Current, as this river Continued its width debth & rapidity and

the Course west of South, going up further would be useless, I

deturmined to return, I accordingly Set out, thro the plain on a Course

N. 30° E on my return & Struck the little river at 20 miles passing thro

a Leavel plain, at the little river we killed 2 buck Elk & dined on

their marrow, proceeded on a few miles & Camped, haveing killed 2 deer

which was verry fat, Some few drops of rain to day, the evening fair

wind hard from the N. E. I Saw great numbers of Elk & white tale deer,

Some beaver, antelope mule deer & wolves & one bear on this little

river marked my name in a tree N. Side near the ridge where the little

river brakes thro

[Lewis, June 6, 1805]

Thursday June 6th 1805.

I now became well convinced that this branch of the Missouri had it's

direction too much to the North for our rout to the Pacific, and

therefore determined to return the next day after taking an observation

of the sun's Meridian Altitude in order to fix the latitude of the

place. The forepart of the last evening was fair but in the latter part

of the night clouded up and contnued so with short intervals of

sunshine untill a little before noon when the whole horizon was

overcast, and I of course disappointed in making the observation which

I much wished. I had sent Sergt. Pryor and Windsor early this morning

with orders to procede up the river to some commanding eminence and

take it's bearing as far as possible. in the mean time the four others

and myself were busily engaged in making two rafts on which we purposed

descending the river; we had just completed this work when Sergt. Pryor

and Windsor returned, it being about noon; they reported that they had

proceded from hence S 70 W. 6 m. to the summit of a commanding eminence

from whence the river on their left was about 21/2 miles distant; that

a point of it's Lard. bluff, which was visible boar S 80 W. distant

about 15 ms.; that the river on their left bent gradually arround to

this point, and from thence seemed to run Northwardly. we now took

dinner and embarcked with our plunder and five Elk's skins on the rafts

but were soon convinced that this mode of navigation was hazerdous

particularly with those rafts they being too small and slender. we wet

a part of our baggage and were near loosing one of our guns; I

therefore determined to abandon the rafts and return as we had come, by

land. I regreted much being obliged to leave my Elk's skins, which I

wanted to assist in forming my leather boat; those we had prepared at

Fort Mandan being injured in such manner that they would not answer. we

again swung our packs and took our way through the open plains for

about 12 mes. when we struck the river; the wind blew a storm from N.

E. accompanyed by frequent showers of rain; we were wet and very could.

continued our rout down the river only a few miles before the

Abruptness of the clifts and their near approach to the river compelled

us take the plains and once more face the storm; here we boar reather

too much to the North and it was late in the evening before we reached

the river, in our way we killed two buffaloe and took with us as much

of the flesh as served us that night, and a part of the next day. we

encamped a little below the entrance of the large dry Creek called Lark

C. having traveled abut 25 mes. since noon. it continues to rain and we

have no shelter, an uncomfortable nights rest is the natural

consequence.

[Clark, June 6, 1805]

June 6th Thursday 1805

a Cloudy Cold raw day wind hard from the N. E. we Set out early &

traveled down the little river which was imedeately in our Course on

this river we killed 7 Deer for their Skins the bottoms of this little

river is in everry respect except in extent like the large bottoms of

the Missouri below the forks containing a great perpotion of a kind of

Cotton wood with a leaf resembling a wild Cherry-. I also observed wild

Tanzey on this little river in great quantities, we halted at 12 oClock

and eate a part of a fat Buck, after Dinner we assended the Plain at

which time it began to rain and Continued all day, at 5 oClock we

arrived at our Camp on the point, where I expected to meet Capt Lewis-

he did not return this evening.--my Self and party much fatigued

haveing walked Constantly as hard as we Could march over a Dry hard

plain, dcending & assending the Steep river hills & gullies, in my

absence the party had killed an Elk & 2 buffalow, I Sent out for the

meat a part of which was brought in--nothing remarkable had transpired

at camp in my absence

[Lewis, June 7, 1805]

Friday June 7th 1805.

It continued to rain almost without intermission last night and as I

expected we had a most disagreable and wrestless night. our camp

possessing no allurements, we left our watery beads at an early hour

and continued our rout down the river. it still continues to rain the

wind hard from N. E. and could. the grownd remarkably slipry, insomuch

that we were unable to walk on the sides of the bluffs where we had

passed as we ascended the river. notwithstanding the rain that has now

fallen the earth of these bluffs is not wet to a greater debth than 2

inches; in it's present state it is precisely like walking over frozan

grownd which is thawed to small debth and slips equally as bad. this

clay not only appears to require more water to saturate it as I before

observed than any earth I ever observed but when saturated it appears

on the other hand to yeald it's moisture with equal difficulty. In

passing along the face of one of these bluffs today I sliped at a

narrow pass of about 30 yards in length and but for a quick and

fortunate recovery by means of my espontoon I should been precipitated

into the river down a craggy pricipice of about ninety feet. I had

scarcely reached a place on which I could stand with tolerable safety

even with the assistance of my espontoon before I heard a voice behind

me cry out god god Capt. what shall I do on turning about I found it

was Windsor who had sliped and fallen abut the center of this narrow

pass and was lying prostrate on his belley, with his wright hand arm

and leg over the precipice while he was holding on with the left arm

and foot as well as he could which appeared to be with much difficulty.

I discovered his danger and the trepedation which he was in gave me

still further concern for I expected every instant to see him loose his

strength and slip off; altho much allarmed at his situation I disguised

my feelings and spoke very calmly to him and assured him that he was in

no kind of danger, to take the knife out of his belt behind him with

his wright hand and dig a hole with it in the face of the bank to

receive his wright foot which he did and then raised himself to his

knees; I then directed him to take off his mockersons and to come

forward on his hands and knees holding the knife in one hand and the

gun in the other this he happily effected and escaped. those who were

some little distance bhind returned by my orders and waded the river at

the foot of the bluff where the water was breast deep. it was useless

we knew to attempt the plains on this part of the river in consequence

of the numerous steep ravines which intersected and which were quite as

had as the river bluffs. we therefore continued our rout down the river

sometimes in the mud and water of the bottom lands, at others in the

river to our breasts and when the water became so deep that we could

not wade we cut footsteps in the face of the steep bluffs with our

knives and proceded. we continued our disagreeable march through the

rain mud and water untill late in the evening having traveled only

about 18 miles, and encamped in an old Indian stick lodge which

afforded us a dry and comfortable shelter. during the day we had killed

six deer some of them in very good order altho none of them had yet

entirely discarded their winter coats. we had reserved and brought with

us a good supply of the best peices; we roasted and eat a hearty supper

of our venison not having taisted a mosel before during the day; I now

laid myself down on some willow boughs to a comfortable nights rest,

and felt indeed as if I was fully repaid for the toil and pain of the

day, so much will a good shelter, a dry bed, and comfortable supper

revive the sperits of the waryed, wet and hungry traveler.

[Clark, June 7, 1805]

June 7th Friday 1805

rained moderately all the last night and Continus this morning, the

wind from the S. W, off the mountains, The Themometer Stood at 40° above

0, I allow Several men to hunt a Short time to day, the rain Continue

moderately all day the bottom verry muddey 2 buffalow an Elk & Deer

killed to day--Capt. Lewis not returned yet. river falling

[Lewis, June 8, 1805]

Saturday June 8th 1805

It continued to rain moderately all last night this morning was cloudy

untill about ten oClock when it cleared off and became a fine day. we

breakfasted and set out about sunrise and continued our rout down the

river bottoms through the mud and water as yesterday, tho the road was

somewhat better than yesterday and we were not so often compelled to

wade in the river. we passed some dangerous and difficult bluffs. The

river bottoms affording all the timber which is to be seen in the

country they are filled with innumerable litle birds that resort

thither either for shelter or to build their nests. when sun began to

shine today these birds appeared to be very gay and sung most

inchantingly; I observed among them the brown thrush, Robbin, turtle

dove, linnit goaldfinch, the large and small blackbird, wren and

several other birds of less note. some of the inhabitants of the

praries also take reffuge in these woods at night or from a storm. The

whole of my party to a man except myself were fully peswaided that this

river was the Missouri, but being fully of opinion that it was neither

the main stream or that which it would be advisable for us to take, I

determined to give it a name and in honour of Miss Maria W-d. called it

Maria's River. it is true that the hue of the waters of this turbulent

and troubled stream but illy comport with the pure celestial virtues

and amiable qualifications of that lovely fair one; but on the other

hand it is a noble river; one destined to become in my opinion an

object of contention between the two great powers of America and Great

Britin with rispect to the adjustment of the North westwardly boundary

of the former; and that it will become one of the most interesting

brances of the Missouri in a commercial point of view, I have but

little doubt, as it abounds with anamals of the fur kind, and most

probably furnishes a safe and direct communication to that productive

country of valuable furs exclusively enjoyed at present by the subjects

of his Britanic Majesty; in adition to which it passes through a rich

fertile and one of the most beatifully picteresque countries that I

ever beheld, through the wide expance of which, innumerable herds of

living anamals are seen, it's borders garnished with one continued

garden of roses, while it's lofty and open forrests, are the habitation

of miriads of the feathered tribes who salute the ear of the passing

traveler with their wild and simple, yet sweet and cheerfull melody.--I

arrived at camp about 5 OClock in the evening much fatiegued, where I

found Capt. Clark and the ballance of the party waiting our return with

some anxiety for our safety having been absent near two days longer

than we had engaged to return. on our way to camp we had killed 4 deer

and two Antelopes; the skins of which as well as those we killed while

on the rout we brought with us. Maria's river may be stated generally

from sixty to a hundred yards wide, with a strong and steady current

and possessing 5 feet water in the most sholly parts.

As the incidents which occurred Capt. C. during his rout will be more

fully and satisfactoryley expressed by himself I here insert a copy of

his journal during the days we wer seperated.-

I now gave myself this evening to rest from my labours, took a drink of

grog and gave the men who had accompanyed me each a dram. Capt. Clark

ploted the courses of the two rivers as far as we had ascended them. I

now began more than ever to suspect the varacity of Mr. Fidler or the

correctness of his instruments. for I see that Arrasmith in his late

map of N. America has laid down a remarkable mountain in the chain of

the Rocky mountains called the tooth nearly as far South as Latitude 45°,

and this is said to be from the discoveries of Mr. Fidler? we are now

within a hundred miles of the Rocky Mountains, and I find from my

observation of the 3rd Inst that the latitude of this place is 47° 24'

12.8". the river must therefore turn much to the South, between this

and the rocky Mountain to have permitted Mr. Fidler to have passed

along the Eastern border of these mountains as far S. as nearly 45°

without even seeing it. but from hence as far as Capt. C. had ascended

the S. fork or Missouri being the distance of 55 miles it's course is

S. 29°W. and it still appeared to bear considerably to the W. of South as

far as he could see it. I think therefore that we shall find that the

Missouri enters the rocky mountains to the North of 45°--we did take the

liberty of placing his discoveries or at least the Southern extremity

of them about a degree further N. in the sketh which we sent on to the

government this spring mearly from the Indian information of the

bearing from Fort Mandan of the entrance of the Missouri into the Rocky

Mountains, and I reather suspect that actual observation will take him

at least one other degree further North. The general Course of Maria's

river from hence to the extremity of the last course taken by Sergt.

pryor is N 69° W. 59 mes.

[Clark, June 8, 1805]

June 8th Saturday 1805

rained moderately all the last night & Some this morning untill 10

oClock, I am Some what uneasy for Capt. Lewis & party as days has now

passed the time he was to have returned, I had all the arms put in

order and permited Severall men to hunt, aired and dried our Stores &c.

The rivers at this point has fallen 6 Inches Sinc our arrival, at 10

oClock cleared away and became fair--the wind all the morning from the

S. W. & hard--The water of the South fork is of a redish brown colour

this morning the other river of a whitish colour as usual-The mountains

to the South Covered with Snow. Wind Shifted to the N E in the evening,

about 5 oClock Capt. Lewis arrived with the party much fatigued, and

inform'd me that he had assended the river about 60 miles by Land and

that the river had a bold current of about 80 or 100 yards wide the

bottoms of Gravel & mud, and may be estimated at 5 feet water in

Sholest parts

Some rain in the evening. the left hand fork rose a little.

[Lewis, June 9, 1805]

Sunday June 9th 1805.

We determined to deposite at this place the large red perogue all the

heavy baggage which we could possibly do without and some provision,

salt, tools powder and Lead &c with a view to lighten our vessels and

at the same time to strengthen their crews by means of the seven hands

who have been heretofore employd. in navigating the red perogue;

accordingly we set some hands to diging a hole or cellar for the

reception of our stores. these holes in the ground or deposits are

called by the engages cashes; on enquiry I found that Cruzatte was well

acquainted this business and therefore left the management of it

intirely to him. today we examined our maps, and compared the

information derived as well from them as from the Indians and fully

settled in our minds the propryety of addopting the South fork for the

Missouri, as that which it would be most expedient for us to take. The

information of Mr. Fidler incorrect as it is strongly argued the

necessity of taking the South fork, for if he has been along the

Eastern side of the rocky mountains as far as even Latd. 47°, which I

think fully as far south as he ever was in that direction, and saw only

small rivulets making down from those mountains the presumption is very

strong that those little streams do not penetrate the rocky Mountains

to such distance as would afford rational grownds for a conjecture that

they had their sources near any navigable branch of the Columbia, and

if he has seen those rivulets as far south as 47° they are most probably

the waters of some Nothern branch of the Missouri or South fork

probably the river called by the Indians Medicine River; we therefore

cannot hope by going Northwardly of this place being already in

Latititude 47° 24" to find a stream between this place and the

Saskashawan which dose penetrate the Rocky mountains, and which

agreeably to the information of the Indians with rispect to the

Missouri, dose possess a navigable curent some distance in those

mountains. The Indian information also argued strongly in favour of the

South fork. they informed us that the water of the Missouri was nearly

transparent at the great falls, this is the case with the water of the

South fork; that the falls lay a little to the South of sunset from

them; this is also brobable as we are only a few minutes North of Fort

Mandan and the South fork bears considerably South from hence to the

Mountains; that the falls are below the rocky mountains and near the

Nothern termineation of one range of those mountains. a range of

mountains which apear behind the S. Mountains and which appear to

terminate S. W. from this place and on this side of the unbroken chain

of the Rocky Mountains gives us hope that this part of their

information is also correct, and there is sufficient distance between

this and the mountains for many and I fear for us much too many falls.

another impression on my mind is that if the Indians had passed any

stream as large as the South fork on their way to the Missouri that

they would not have omitted mentioning it; and the South fork from it's

size and complexion of it's waters must enter the Ry. Mountains and in

my opinion penetrates them to a great distance, or els whence such an

immence body of water as it discharges; it cannot procede from the dry

plains to the N. W. of the Yellow Stone river on the East side of the

Rocky Mountains for those numerous large dry channels which we

witnessed on that side as we ascended the Missouri forbid such a

conjecture; and that it should take it's sourses to the N. W. under

those mountains the travels of Mr. Fidler fobid us to beleive. Those

ideas as they occurred to me I indevoured to impress on the minds of

the party all of whom except Capt. C. being still firm in the beleif

that the N. Fork was the Missouri and that which we ought to take; they

said very cheerfully that they were ready to follow us any wher we

thought proper to direct but that they still thought that the other was

the river and that they were affraid that the South fork would soon

termineate in the mountains and leave us at a great distance from the

Columbia. Cruzatte who had been an old Missouri navigator and who from

his integrity knowledge and skill as a waterman had acquired the

confidence of every individual of the party declared it as his opinion

that the N. fork was the true genuine Missouri and could be no other.

finding them so determined in this beleif, and wishing that if we were

in an error to be able to detect it and rectify it as soon as possible

it was agreed between Capt. C. and myself that one of us should set out

with a small party by land up the South fork and continue our rout up

it untill we found the falls or reached the snowy Mountains by which

means we should be enabled to determine this question prety accurately.

this expedition I prefered undertaking as Capt. C best waterman &c. and

determined to set out the day after tomorrow; I wished to make some

further observations at this place, and as we had determined to leave

our blacksmith's bellows and tools here it was necessary to repare some

of our arms, and particularly my Airgun the main spring of which was

broken, before we left this place. these and some other preperations

will necessarily detain us two perhaps three days. I felt myself very

unwell this morning and took a portion of salts from which I feel much

releif this evening. The cash being completed I walked to it and

examined it's construction. it is in a high plain about 40 yards

distant from a steep bluff of the South branch on it's nothern side;

the situation a dry one which is always necessary. a place being fixed

on for a cash, a circle abut 20 inches in diameter is first discribed,

the terf or sod of this circle is carefully removed, being taken out as

entire as possible in order that it may be replaced in the same

situation when the chash is filled and secured. this circular hole is

then sunk perpendicularly to the debth of one foot, if the ground be

not firm somewhat deeper. they then begin to work it out wider as they

proceed downwards untill they get it about six or seven feet deep

giving it nearly the shape of the kettle or lower part of a large

still. it's bottom is also somewhat sunk in the center. the dementions

of the cash is in proportion to the quantity of articles intended to be

deposited. as the earth is dug it is handed up in a vessel and

carefully laid on a skin or cloth and then carryed to some place where

it can be thrown in such manner as to conseal it usually into some

runing stream wher it is washed away and leaves no traces which might

lead to the discovery of the cash. before the goods are deposited they

must be well dryed; a parsel of small dry sticks are then collected and

with them a floor is maid of three or four inches thick which is then

covered with some dry hay or a raw hide well dryed; on this the

articles are deposited, taking care to keep them from touching the

walls by putting other dry sticks between as you stoe away the

merchandize, when nearly full the goods are covered with a skin and

earth thrown in and well ramed untill with the addition of the turf

furst removed the whole is on a level with the serface of the ground.

in this manner dryed skins or merchandize will keep perfectly sound for

several years. the traders of the Missouri, particularly those engaged

in the trade with the Siouxs are obliged to have frequent recourse to

this method in order to avoyd being robed. most of the men are busily

engaged dressing skins for cloathing. In the evening Cruzatte gave us

some music on the violin and the men passed the evening in dancing

singing &c and were extreemly cheerfull.-

[Clark, June 9, 1805]

June 9th Sunday a fair morning the wind hard from the S. W. the river

during the night fell 1 Inch, we conclude to burry a few of our heavy

articles, Some Powder & Lead provisions & a fiw Tools, in case of

accident and leave one perogue at this place, and as Soon as those

things are accomplished to assend the South fork, which appears to be

more in our Course than the N. fork the Genl. Course of the South fork

for 35 miles is S. 29° W.--that of the N. fork is N. 69° W. for 59 miles,

and as we are North of Fort mandan it is probable the most Southerley

fork is the best for us.--Capt. Lewis a little unwell to day & take

Salts &c. Send out 7 men to make a cache or hole to burry the Stores,

air out Cloathes &c. &c. finish'd the cache or Seller &c. the men all

engaged dressing Skins for their clothes, in the evening the party

amused themselves danceing and Singing Songes in the most Social

manner. had a meridian altitude which gave 47° 24' 29" took some Luner

observations which gave for Longitude ____ variation 151/2° East