[Lewis, May 1, 1805]

Wednesday May 1st 1805.

Set out this morning at an early, the wind being favourable we used our

sales which carried us on at a good pace untill about 12 OCk. when the

wind became so high that the small canoes were unable to proceed one of

them which seperated from us just befor the wind became so violent, is

now lying on the opposite side of the river, being unable to rejoin us

in consequence of the waves, which during those gusts run several feet

high. we came too on the Lard. shore in a handsome bottom well stocked

with cottonwood timber; here the wind compelled us to spend the

ballance of the day. we sent out some hunters who killed a buffaloe, an

Elk, a goat and two beaver. game is now abundant. the country appears

much more pleasant and fertile than that we have passed for several

days; the hills are lower, the bottoms wider, and better stocked with

timber, which consists principally of cottonwood, not however of large

size; the under-growth willow on the verge of the river and sandbars,

rose bushes, red willow and the broad leafed willow in the bottom

lands; the high country on either side of the river is one vast plain,

intirely destitute of timber, but is apparently fertile, consisting of

a dark rich mellow looking lome. John Shields sick today with the

rheumatism. Shannon killed a bird of the plover kind. weight one pound.

it measured from the tip of the toe, to the extremity of the beak, 1

foot 10 Inches; from tip to tip of wings when extended 2 F. 5 I.; Beak

3 5/8 inches; tale 3 1/8 inches; leg and toe 10 Ins.--the eye black,

piercing, prominent and moderately large. the legs are Hat thin,

slightly imbricated and of a pale sky blue colour, being covered with

feathers as far as the mustle extends down it, which is about half it's

length. it has four toes on each foot, three of which, are connected by

a web, the fourth is small and placed at the heel about the 1/8 of an

inch up the leg. the nails are black and short, that of the middle toe

is extreemly singular, consisting of two nails the one laping on or

overlaying the other, the upper one somewhat the longest and sharpest.

the tale contains eleven feathers of equal length, & of a bluish white

colour. the boddy and underside of the wings, except the large feathers

of the 1st & 2cd joints of the same, are white; as are also the

feathers of the upper part of the 4th joint of the wing and part of

those of the 3rd adjacent thereto, the large feathers of the 1st or

pinion and the 2cd joint are black; a part of the larger feathers of

the 3rd joint on the upper side and all the small feathers which cover

the upper part of the wings are black, as are also the tuft of long

feathers on each side of the body above the joining of the wing,

leaving however a stripe of white betwen them on the back. the head and

neck are shaped much like the grey plover, and are of a light brickdust

brown; the beak is black and flat, largest where it joins the head, and

from thence becoming thiner and tapering to a very sharp point, the

upper chap being 1/8 of an inch the longest turns down at the point and

forms a little hook. the nostrils, which commence near the head are

long, narrow, connected, and parallel with the beak; the beak is much

curved, the curvature being upwards in stead of downwards as is common

with most birds; the substance of the beak precisely resembles

whalebone at a little distance, and is quite as flexable as that

substance their note resembles that of the grey plover, tho is reather

louder and more varied, their habits appear also to be the same, with

this difference; that it sometimes rests on the water and swims which I

do not recollect having seen the plover do. this bird which I shall

henceforth stile the Missouri plover, generally feeds about the shallow

bars of the river; to collect it's food which consists of ____, it

immerces it's beak in the water and throws it's head and beak from side

to side at every step it takes.

[Clark, May 1, 1805]

May the 1st Wednesday 1805

We Set out at Sun rise under a Stiff Breeze from the East, the morning

Cool & Cloudy. one man J. Shields Sick with rhumetism--one of the men

(Shannon) Shot a Gull or pleaver, which is about the Size of an Indian

hen, with a Sharp pointed bill turning up & 4 Inches long, the head and

neck of a light brown, the breast, the underfeathers of the 2nd and 3d

joint of the wings, the Short feathers on the upper part of the 3rd

joint of the wings, down the back the rump & tail white. The large

feathers of the 1st joints of the wing the upper feathers of the 2d

joints of the wings, on the body on the joints of the wing and the bill

is black.--the legs long and of a Skie blue. The feet webed &c. This

fowl may be properly Stiled the Missouri Pleaver--the wind became verry

Hard and we put too on the L. Side, as the wind Continued with Some

degree of violence and the waves too high for the Canoes we were

obliged to Stay all day

[Lewis, May 1, 1805]

May 1st 1805.

Shannon killed a bird of the plover kind the weight one pound.--eye

black percing and prominent

Measure F.

Inchs

from the tip of the toe to the extremity of the beak 1

10

from tip to tip of wing when extended 2 5

length of beak 3

5/8

length of tale 3

1/8

length of leg and toe

10

the legs are flat, of pale skye blue colour and but slightly

imbricated. the second joint, as low as the mustle extends is covered

with feathers which is about half it's length. it has three toes on a

foot connected by a web. there is also a small toe on each foot placed

about the eighth of an inch up the leg behind. the nails are black and

short and those of the middle toes ar singular-there being two nails on

each the one above the other the upper one the longest and sharpest.-

the tale contains eleven feathers of the same length of a bluish white

colour. the body and under side of the wings except the large feathers

of the 1 & 2cd joints of the wings are white, as are also the feathers

of the upper part of the 4th joint of the wing. and some of those of

the 3rd adjoining.--the large feathers of the pinion or first (joint) &

the second joint are black; a part of the larger feathers of the third

joint on the upper side and all the smaller feathers which cover the

upper part of these joints ar black; as are also the tuft of long

feathers on each side of the body above the joining of the wing,

leaving however a stripe of white between them on the back. the head

and neck are shaped much like the grey plover, and is a light brickdust

brown. the beak is black and flat, largest where it joins the head and

from thence tapering every way gradually to a very sharp point the

upper beak being 1/8 of an inch the longest turning down at the point.

the nostrils are parrallal with the beak and are long narrow and

connected. the beak is curvated and invirted; the Curvature being

upwards in stead of downwards as those of most birds are--the substance

of the beak is as flexable as whalebone and at a little distance

precisely resembles that substance. their note is like that of the

common whistling or grey plover tho reather louder, and more varied,

and their habits are the same with that bird so far as I have been

enabled to learn, with this difference however that this bird sometimes

lights in the water and swims.--it generally feads about the shallow

bars of the river; to collect it's food, it immerces it's beak in the

water, and thows it's head and beak from side to side at every step it

takes.

[Lewis, May 2, 1805]

Thursday May 2ed 1805

The wind continued violent all night nor did it abate much of it's

violence this morning, when at daylight it was attended with snow which

continued to fall untill about 10 A.M. being about one inch deep, it

formed a singular contrast with the vegitation which was considerably

advanced. some flowers had put forth in the plains, and the leaves of

the cottonwood were as large as a dollar. sent out some hunters who

killed 2 deer 3 Elk and several buffaloe; on our way this evening we

also shot three beaver along the shore; these anamals in consequence of

not being hunted are extreemly gentle, where they are hunted they never

leave their lodges in the day, the flesh of the beaver is esteemed a

delecacy among us; I think the tale a most delicious morsal, when

boiled it resembles in flavor the fresh tongues and sounds of the

codfish, and is usually sufficiently large to afford a plentifull meal

for two men. Joseph Fields one of the hunters who was out today found

several yards of scarlet cloth which had been suspended on the bough of

a tree near an old indian hunting camp, where it had been left as a

sacrefice to the deity by the indians, probably of the Assinniboin

nation, it being a custom with them as well as all the nations

inhabiting the waters of the Missouri so far as they are known to us,

to offer or sacrefice in this manner to the deity watever they may be

possessed off which they think most acceptable to him, and very

honestly making their own feelings the test of those of the deity offer

him the article which they most prize themselves. this being the most

usual method of weshiping the great sperit as they term the deity, is

practiced on interesting occasions, or to produce the happy eventuation

of the important occurrances incident to human nature, such as relief

from hungar or mallady, protection from their enemies or the delivering

them into their hands, and with such as cultivate, to prevent the

river's overflowing and distroying their crops &c. screfices of a

similar kind are also made to the deceased by their friends and

relatives. the are was very piercing this evening the water friezed on

the oars as they rowed. the wind dying at 5 P.M. we set out.

every thing which is incomprehensible to the indians they call big

medicine, and is the opperation of the presnts and power of the great

sperit. this morning one of the men shot the indian dog that had

followed us for several days, he would steal their cooked provision.

[Clark, May 2, 1805]

May 2nd Thursday 1805

The wind blew verry hard all the last night, this morning about Sunrise

began to Snow, (The Thermomtr. at 28 abov o) and Continued untill about

10 oClock, at which time it Seased, the wind Continued hard untill

about 2 P.M. the Snow which fell to day was about 1 In deep, a verry

extroadernaley Climate, to behold the trees Green & flowers Spred on

the plain, & Snow an inch deep. we Set out about 3 oClock and proceeded

on about five 1/2 miles and encamped on the Std Side, the evening verry

cold, Ice freesing to the Ores, I Shot a large beaver & Drewyer three

in walking on the bank, the flesh of those animals the party is fond of

eating &c.

[Lewis, May 3, 1805]

Friday May 3rd 1805.

The morning being very could we did not set out as early as usual; ice

formed on a kettle of water 1/4 of an inch thick. the snow has melted

generally in the bottoms, but the hills still remain covered. on the

lard side at the distance of 2 miles we passed a curious collection of

bushes which had been tyed up in the form of a faciene and standing on

end in the open bottom it appeared to be about 30 feet high and ten or

twelve feet in diameter, this we supposed to have been placed there by

the Indians, as a sacrefice for some purpose. The wind continued to

blow hard from the West but not so strong as to compel us to ly by.

Capt. Clark walked on shore and killed an Elk which he caused to be

butched by the time I arrived with the party, here we halted and dined

being about 12 OCk. our usual time of halting for that purpose. after

dinner Capt. Clark pursued his walk, while I continued with the party,

it being a rule which we had established, never to be absent at the

same time from the party. the plains or high lands are much less

elivated than they were, not being more than from 50 to 60 feet above

the river bottom, which is also wider than usual being from 5 to 9 ms.

in width; traces of the ancient beds of the river are visible in many

places through the whole extent of this valley. since the hills have

become lower the appearance of the stratas of coal burnt hills and

pumice stone have in a great measure ceased; I saw none today. we saw

vast quantities of Buffaloe, Elk, deer principally of the long tale

kind, Antelope or goats, beaver, geese, ducks, brant and some swan.

near the entrance of the river mentioned in the 10th course of this

day, we saw an unusual number of Porcupines from which we determined to

call the river after that anamal, and accordingly denominated it

Porcupine river. this stream discharges itself into the Missouri on the

Stard. side 2000 miles above the mouth of the latter, it is a beatifull

bold runing stream, 40 yards wide at it's entrance; the water is

transparent, it being the first of this discription that I have yet

seen discharge itself into the Missouri; before it enters a large sand

bar through which it discharges itself into the missouri it's banks and

bottom are formed of a stiff blue and black clay; it appears to be

navigable for canoes and perogues at this time and I have no doubt but

it might be navigated with boats of a considerable size in high water.

it's banks appear to be from 8 to ten feet high and seldom overflow;

from the quantity of water furnished by this river, the appearance of

the country, the direction it pursues, and the situation of it's

entrance, I have but little doubt but it takes it's source not far from

the main body of the Suskashawan river, and that it is probably

navigable 150 miles; perhaps not very distant from that river. should

this be the case, it would afford a very favorable communication to the

Athebaskay country, from whence the British N. W. Company derive so

large a portion of their valuable furs.--Capt. Clark who ascended this

river several miles and passed it above where it entered the hills

informed me on his return that he found the general width of the bed of

the river about one hundred yards, where he passed the river the bed

was 112 yards wide, the water was knee deep and 38 yard in width; the

river which he could observe from the rising grounds for about 20

miles, bore a little to the East of North. there was a considerable

portion of timber in the bottom lands of this river. Capt Clark also

met with limestone on the surface of the earth in the course of his

walk. he also saw a range of low mountains at a distance to the W of N

, their direction being N. W. the country in the neighborhood of this

river, and as far as the eye can reach, is level, fertile, open and

beatifull beyond discription. 1/4 of a mile above the entrance of this

river a large creek falls in which we called 2000 mile creek. I sent

Rubin Fields to examine it, he reported it to be a bold runing stream,

it's bed 30 yards wide. we proceeded about 3 miles abov this creek and

encamped on the Stard. shore. I walked out a little distance and met

with 2 porcupines which were feeding on the young willow which grow in

great abundance on all the sandbars; this anamal is exceedingly clumsy

and not very watchfull I approached so near one of them before it

percieved me that I touched it with my espontoon.--found the nest of a

wild goose among some driftwood in the river from which we took three

eggs. this is the only nest we have met with on driftwood, the usual

position is the top of a broken tree, sometimes in the forks of a large

tree but almost invariably, from 15 to 20 feet or upwards high.-

[Clark, May 3, 1805]

May 3rd Friday 1805

we Set out reather later this morning than usial owing to weather being

verry cold, a frost last night and the Thermt. Stood this morning at 26

above 0 which is 6 Degrees blow freeseing--the ice that was on the

Kittle left near the fire last night was 1/4 of an inch thick. The Snow

is all or nearly all off the low bottoms, the Hills are entireley

Covered. three of our party found in the back of a bottom 3 pieces of

Scarlet one brace in each, which had been left as a Sacrifice near one

of their Swet houses, on the L. S. we passed to day a curious

collection of bushes tied up in the shape of fascene about 10 feet

diamuter, which must have been left also by the natives as an offering

to their medison which they Convinced protected or gave them relief

near the place, the wind Continued to blow hard from the West, altho

not Sufficently So to detain us, I walked on Shore and killed an Elk &

had him bucchured by the time the Perogus Came up which was the usial

time of dineing. The high lands are low and from 8 to 9 miles apart and

there is evident marks of the bead of the river having been changed

frequently but little appearance of the Coal & burnt hills to day-

Great numbers of Buffalow, Elk, Deer, antilope, beaver, Porcupins, &

water fowls Seen to day, Such as, Geese, ducks of dift. kinds, & a fiew

Swan--I continued my walk on Shore after dinner, and arrived at the

mouth of a river on the St. Side, which appeared to be large, and I

concluded to go up this river a few miles to examine it accordingly I

Set out North 1 mile thro wood or timbered bottom, 2 miles through a

butifull leavel plain, and 1 mile over a high plain about 50 feet

higher than the bottom & Came to the little river, which I found to be

a butifull clear Stream of about 100 yds. from bank to bank, (I waded

this river at the narrowest part and made it 112 Steps from bank to

bank and at this place which was a kind of fording place the water was

near Knee deep, and 38 steps wide, the bottom of a hard stiff Black

Clay,) I observed a Great perportion of timber in the bottoms of this

river as far as I could See which was to the East of N. 18 or 20 miles,

it appears to be navigable at this time for Canoes, and from

appearances must be navagable a long distance for Perogus & boats in

high water. This river we call Porcupine from the great number of those

anamals found about it's mouth.--a Short distance above about 1/4 mile

and on the Lard Side a large Creek falls in, which R. Fields went to

examine & reports that it is a bold running Stream, 30 yds wide as this

Creek is 2000 miles up the Missouri we Call it the 2000 mile Creek, we

proceeded on 3 miles & Camped on the S. S. here I joined Capt Lewis who

had in my absens walkd. on the upper Side of Porcupine River for Some

distance--This river from its Size & quantity of water must head at no

great distance from the Saskashawan on this river I Saw emence herds

Elk & Buffalow & many deer & Porcupine. I also Saw the top of a

mountain which did not appear verry high to the West of N. & bore N W.

I Saw on the high land limestone & pebble--The Countrey about the mouth

of this river and as far as the eye Can reach is butifull open

Countrey. The greater part of the Snow is melted.

[Lewis, May 4, 1805]

Saturday May 4th 1805.

We were detained this morning untill about 9 OCk. in order to repare

the rudder irons of the red perogue which were broken last evening in

landing; we then set out, the wind hard against us. I walked on shore

this morning, the weather was more plesant, the snow has disappeared;

the frost seems to have effected the vegetation much less than could

have been expected the leaves of the cottonwood the grass the box alder

willow and the yellow flowering pea seem to be scarcely touched; the

rosebushes and honeysuckle seem to have sustaned the most considerable

injury. The country on both sides of the Missouri continues to be open

level fertile and beautifull as far as the eye can reach which from

some of the eminences is not short of 30 miles. the river bottoms are

very extensive and contain a much greater proportion of timber than

usual; the fore part of this day the river was bordered with timber on

both sides, a circumstance which is extreemly rare and the first which

has occurred of any thing like the same extent since we left the

Mandans, in the after part of the day we passed an extensive beautifull

plain on the Stard. side which gradually ascended from the river. I saw

immence quantities of buffaloe in every direction, also some Elk deer

and goats; having an abundance of meat on hand I passed them without

firing on them; they are extreemly gentle the bull buffaloe

particularly will scarcely give way to you. I passed several in the

open plain within fifty paces, they viewed me for a moment as something

novel and then very unconcernedly continued to feed. Capt. Clark walked

on shore this evening and did not rejoin us untill after dark, he

struck the river several miles above our camp and came down to us. we

saw many beaver some which the party shot, we also killed two deer

today. much sign of the brown bear. passed several old Indian hunting

camps in the course of the day one of them contained two large lodges

which were fortifyed with old driftwood and fallen timber; this

fortification consisted of a circular fence of timber lade horizontally

laping on and over laying each other to the hight of 5 feet. these

pounds are sometimes built from 20 to 30 feet in diameter and covered

over with the trunks and limbs of old timber. the usual construction of

the lodges we have lately passed is as follows. three or more strong

sticks the thickness of a man's leg or arm and about 12 feet long are

attatched together at one end by a with of small willows, these are

then set on end and spread at the base, forming a circle of ten twelve

or 14 feet in diameter; sticks of driftwood and fallen timber of

convenient size are now placed with one end on the ground and the other

resting against those which are secured together at top by the with and

which support and give the form to the whole, thus the sticks are laid

on untill they make it as thick as they design, usually about three

ranges, each piece breaking or filling up the interstice of the two

beneath it, the whole forming a connic figure about 10 feet high with a

small apperture in one side which answers as a door. leaves bark and

straw are sometimes thrown over the work to make it more complete, but

at best it affords a very imperfect shelter particularly without straw

which is the state in which we have most usually found them.

At noon the sun was so much obscured that I could not obtain his

maridian Altitude which I much wished in order to fix the latitude of

the entrance of Porcupine river. Joseph Fields was very sick today with

the disentary had a high fever I gave him a doze of Glauber salts,

which operated very well, in the evening his fever abated and I gave

him 30 drops of laudnum.-

[Clark, May 4, 1805]

May 4th Satturday 1805

The rudder Irons of our large Perogue broke off last night, the

replaceing of which detained us this morning untill 9 oClock at which

time we Set out the wind a head from the west, The Countrey on each

Side of the Missouri is a rich high and butifull the bottoms are

extencive with a great deal of timber on them all the fore part of this

day the wood land bordered the river on both Sides, in the after part a

butifull assending plain on the Std Side we Camped on the Std. Side a

little above we passed a Small Creek on the L. Side near which I Saw

where an Indian lodge had been fortified many year past. Saw great

numbers of anamals of different kinds on the banks, I Saw the black

martin to day-in the evening I walkd. on Shore on the Std Side & Struck

the river Several miles above our Camp & did not get to Camp untill

Some time after night--we have one man Sick, The river has been falling

for Several days passed; it now begins to rise a little; the rate of

rise & fall is from one to 3 inches in 24 hours.

[Lewis, May 5, 1805]

Sunday May 5th 1805

A fine morning I walked on shore untill 8 A M when we halted for

breakfast and in the course of my walk killed a deer which I carried

about a mile and a half to the river, it was in good order. soon after

seting out the rudder irons of the white perogue were broken by her

runing fowl on a sawyer, she was however refitted in a few minutes with

some tugs of raw hide and nales. as usual saw a great quantity of game

today; Buffaloe Elk and goats or Antelopes feeding in every direction;

we kill whatever we wish, the buffaloe furnish us with fine veal and

fat beef, we also have venison and beaver tales when we wish them; the

flesh of the Elk and goat are less esteemed, and certainly are

inferior. we have not been able to take any fish for some time past.

The country is as yesterday beatifull in the extreme.

saw the carcases of many Buffaloe lying dead along the shore partially

devoured by the wolves and bear. saw a great number of white brant also

the common brown brant, geese of the common kind and a small species of

geese which differ considerably from the common canadian goose; their

neck head and beak are considerably thicker shorter and larger than the

other in proportion to it's size, they are also more than a third

smaller, and their note more like that of the brant or a young goose

which has not perfectly acquired his notes, in all other rispects they

are the same in colour habits and the number of feathers in the tale,

they frequently also ascociate with the large geese when in flocks, but

never saw them pared off with the large or common goose. The white

brant ascociate in very large flocks, they do not appear to be mated or

pared off as if they intended to raise their young in this quarter, I

therefore doubt whether they reside here during the summer for that

purpose.

this bird is about the size of the common brown brant or two thirds of

the common goose, it is not so long by six inches from point to point

of the wings when extended as the other; the beak head and neck are

also larger and stronger; their beak legs and feet are of a redish or

fleshcoloured white. the eye is of moderate size, the puple of a deep

sea green incircled with a ring of yellowish brown. it has sixteen

feathers of equal length in the tale; their note differs but little

from the common brant, their flesh much the same, and in my opinion

preferable to the goose, the flesh is dark. they are entirely of a

beatifull pure white except the large feathers of the 1st and second

joints of the wings which are jut black. form and habits are the same

with the other brant; they sometimes ascociate and form one common

flock. Capt Clark found a den of young wolves in the course of his walk

today and also saw a great number of those anamals; they are very

abundant in this quarter, and are of two species the small woolf or

burrowing dog of the praries are the inhabitants almost invariably of

the open plains; they usually ascociate in bands of ten or twelve

sometimes more and burrow near some pass or place much frequented by

game; not being able alone to take a deer or goat they are rarely ever

found alone but hunt in bands; they frequently watch and seize their

prey near their burrows; in these burrows they raise their young and to

them they also resort when pursued; when a person approaches them they

frequently bark, their note being precisely that of the small dog. they

are of an intermediate size between that of the fox and dog, very

active fleet and delicately formed; the ears large erect and pointed

the head long and pointed more like that of the fox; tale long; the

hair and fur also resembles the fox tho is much coarser and inferior.

they are of a pale redish brown colour. the eye of a deep sea green

colour small and piercing. their tallons are reather longer than those

of the ordinary wolf or that common to the atlantic states, none of

which are to be found in this quarter, nor I believe above the river

Plat.--The large woolf found here is not as large as those of the

atlantic states. they are lower and thicker made shorter leged. their

colour which is not effected by the seasons, is a grey or blackish

brown and every intermediate shade from that to a creen coloured white;

these wolves resort the woodlands and are also found in the plains, but

never take refuge in the ground or burrow so far as I have been able to

inform myself. we scarcely see a gang of buffaloe without observing a

parsel of those faithfull shepherds on their skirts in readiness to

take care of the mamed & wounded. the large wolf never barks, but howls

as those of the atlantic states do. Capt. Clark and Drewyer killed the

largest brown bear this evening which we have yet seen. it was a most

tremendious looking anamal, and extreemly hard to kill notwithstanding

he had five balls through his lungs and five others in various parts he

swam more than half the distance acoss the river to a sandbar & it was

at least twenty minutes before he died; he did not attempt to attact,

but fled and made the most tremendous roaring from the moment he was

shot. We had no means of weighing this monster; Capt. Clark thought he

would weigh 500 lbs. for my own part I think the estimate too small by

100 lbs. he measured 8 Feet 71/2 Inches from the nose to the extremety

of the hind feet, 5 F. to 1/2 Inch arround the breast, 1 F. 11 I.

arround the middle of the arm, & 3 F. 11 I. arround the neck; his

tallons which were five in number on each foot were 4 1/8 Inches in

length. he was in good order, we therefore divided him among the party

and made them boil the oil and put it in a cask for future uce; the oil

is as hard as hogs lard when cool, much more so than that of the black

bear. this bear differs from the common black bear in several respects;

it's tallons are much longer and more blont, it's tale shorter, it's

hair which is of a redish or bey brown, is longer thicker and finer

than that of the black bear; his liver lungs and heart are much larger

even in proportion with his size; the heart particularly was as large

as that of a large Ox. his maw was also ten times the size of black

bear, and was filled with flesh and fish. his testicles were pendant

from the belly and placed four inches assunder in seperate bags or

pouches.--this animal also feeds on roots and almost every species of

wild fruit.

The party killed two Elk and a Buffaloe today, and my dog caught a

goat, which he overtook by superior fleetness, the goat it must be

understood was with young and extreemly poor. a great number of these

goats are devowered by the wolves and bear at this season when they are

poor and passing the river from S. W. to N. E. they are very inactive

and easily taken in the water, a man can out swim them with great ease;

the Indians take them in great numbers in the river at this season and

in autumn when they repass to the S. W.

[Clark, May 5, 1805]

5th of May Sunday 1805

We Set out verry early and had not proceeded far before the rudder

Irons of one of the Perogus broke which detained us a Short time Capt

Lewis walked on Shore this morning and killed a Deer, after brackfast I

walked on Shore Saw great numbers of Buffalow & Elk Saw also a Den of

young wolves, and a number of (frown wolves in every direction, the

white & Grey Brant is in this part of the Missouri I shot at the white

brant but at So great a distance I did not kill, The Countrey on both

sides is as yesterday, handsom & fertile--The river rising & Current

Strong & in the evening we Saw a Brown or Grisley beare on a Sand

beech, I went out with one man Geo. Drewyer & Killed the bear, which

was verry large and a turrible looking animal, which we found verry

hard to kill we Shot ten Balls into him before we killed him, & 5 of

those Balls through his lights This animal is the largest of the

Carnivorous kind I ever Saw we had nothing that could way him, I think

his weight may be Stated at 500 pounds, he measured 8 feet 71/2 In.

from his nose to the extremity of the Toe, 5 feet 101/2 in. arround the

breast, 1 feet 11 Ins. around the middle of the arm, 3 feet 11 Ins.

arround the neck his tallents was 4 Inches &3/8 long, he was good

order, and appeared verry different from the Common black bear in as

much as his tallents were blunt, his tail Short, his liver & lights

much larger, his maw ten times as large and Contained meat or flesh &

fish only--we had him Skined and divided, the oile tried up & put in

Kegs for use. we Camped on the Stard Side, our men killed three Elk and

a Buffalow to day, and our Dog Cought an antilope a fair race, this

animal appeared verry pore & with young.

[Lewis, May 6, 1805]

Monday May 6th 1805.

The morning being fair and pleasant and wind favourable we set sale at

an early hour, and proceeded on very well the greater part of the day;

the country still continues level fertile and beautifull, the bottoms

wide and well timbered comparitively speaking with other parts of the

river; no appearance of birnt hills pumice stone or coal, the salts of

tartar or vegitable salts continues to appear on the river banks, sand

bars and in many parts of the plains most generally in the little

revines at the base of the low hills. passed three streames today which

discharged themselves on the Lard. side; the first of these we call

little dry creek it contained some water in standing pools but

discharged none, the 2ed 50 yards wide no Water, we called it Big dry

Creek, the 3rd is bed of a conspicuous river 200 yards wide which we

called little dry river; the banks of these streams are low and bottoms

wide with but little timber, their beds are almost entirely formed of a

fine brown sand intermixed with a small proportion of little pebbles,

which were either transparent, white, green, red, yellow or brown.

these streams appeared to continue their width without diminution as

far as we could perceive them, which with rispect to the river was many

miles, they had recenly discharged their waters. from the appearance of

these streams, and the country through which they passed, we concluded

that they had their souces in level low dry plains, which probably is

the character of the country for a great distance west of this, or to

the vicinity of the black hills, that the country being low on the same

level nearly and in the same parallel of latitude, that the rains in

the spring of the year suddonly melts the snow at the same time and

causes for a few days a vast quantity of water which finds it's way to

the Missouri through those channels; by reference to the diary of the

weather &c it will be percieved that there is scarcely any rain during

the summer Autumn and winter in this open country distant from the

mountains. Fields still continues unwell. saw a brown bear swim the

river above us, he disappeared before we can get in reach of him; I

find that the curiossity of our party is pretty well satisfyed with

rispect to this anamal, the formidable appearance of the male bear

killed on the 5th added to the difficulty with which they die when even

shot through the vital parts, has staggered the resolution several of

them, others however seem keen for action with the bear; I expect these

gentlemen will give us some amusement shotly as they soon begin now to

coppolate. saw a great quantity of game of every species common here.

Capt Clark walked on shore and killed two Elk, they were not in very

good order, we therefore took a part of the meat only; it is now only

amusement for Capt. C. and myself to kill as much meat as the party can

consum; I hope it may continue thus through our whole rout, but this I

do not much expect. two beaver were taken in traps this morning and one

since shot by one of the party. saw numbers of these anamals peeping at

us as we passed out of their wholes which they form of a cilindric

shape, by burrowing in the face of the abbrupt banks of the river.

[Clark, May 6, 1805]

May 6th Monday 1805

a fine morning wind from the N. E. we Set out early and proceeded on

verry well under Sail the greater part of the day, passed two Creeks &

a River to day on the Lard. Side, neither of them discharged any water

into the Missouri, they were wide and Continued their width for Some

distance, the little water of those Creeks & the little river must wash

the low Country, I believe those Streams to be the Conveyance of the

water of the heavy rains & melting Snows in the Countrey back &c. &c. I

walked on Shore and Killed two Elk neither of which was fat, we saved

the best of the meat, one beaver Shot to day. the countrey on both

Sides butifull no appearances of either Coal or pumice Stone & burnt

hills, The Salts of Tarter or white aprs. of Salts are yet to be Seen.

[Lewis, May 7, 1805]

Tuesday May 7th 1805.

A fine morning, set out at an early hour; the drift wood begins to come

down in consequence of the river's rising; the water is somewhat

clearer than usual, a circumstance I did not expect on it's rise. at 11

A.M. the wind became so hard that we were compelled to ly by for

several hours, one of the small canoes by the bad management of the

steersman filled with water and had very nearly sunk; we unloaded her

and dryed the baggage; at one we proceed on the wind having in some

measure abated. the country we passed today on the North side of the

river is one of the most beautifull plains we have yet seen, it rises

gradually from the river bottom to the hight of 50 or 60 feet, then

becoming level as a bowling green. extends back as far as the eye can

reach; on the S. side the river hills are more broken and much higher

tho some little destance back the country becomes level and fertile. no

appearance of birnt hills coal or pumicestone, that of salts still

continue. vegitation appears to have advanced very little since the

28th Ulto.--we continue to see a great number of bald Eagles, I presume

they must feed on the carcases of dead anamals, for I see no fishing

hawks to supply them with their favorite food. the water of the river

is so terbid that no bird wich feeds exclusively on fish can subsist on

it; from it's mouth to this place I have neither seen the blue crested

fisher nor a fishing hawk. this day we killed 3 Buffaloe 1 Elk & 8

beaver; two of the Buffaloe killed by Capt Clark near our encampment of

this evening wer in good order dressed them and saved the meat, the Elk

I killed this morning, thought it fat, but on examineation found it so

lean that we took the tongue marrowbones and Skin only.

[Clark, May 7, 1805]

May 7th Tuesday, 1805

A fine morning river rose 11/2 Inches last night, the drift wood

beginning to run the water Something Clearer than usial, the wind

became verry hard, and at 11 oClock one Canoe by bad Stearing filled

with water, which detained us about 3 hours, had a Meridian altitude,

the Laid. from which is 47°36' 11" 6/10 The Countrey on the North Side of

the Missouri is one of the handsomest plains we have yet Seen on the

river the plain rises from the river bottom gradually. The Hills on the

South Side is high & uneavin. no appearance of Coal or burnt hills,

that of Salts Still appear; vegitation appears to be Slow, I walked on

the bank to day and Shot 2 beaver, in the evening Killed two Buffalow

in tolerable order which we Saved and Camped on the Lard Side. 8

beaver, 3 buffalow & an Elk killed to day

[Lewis, May 8, 1805]

Wednesday May 8th 1805.

Set out at an early hour under a gentle brieze from the East. a black

cloud which suddonly sprung up at S. E. soon over shaddowed the

horizon; at 8 A.M. it gave us a slight sprinke of rain, the wind became

much stronger but not so much so as to detain us. we nooned it just

above the entrance of a large river which disimbogues on the Lard.

side; I took the advantage of this leasure moment and examined the

river about 3 miles; I found it generally 150 yards wide, and in some

places 200. it is deep, gentle in it's courant and affords a large

boddy of water; it's banks which are formed of a dark rich loam and

blue clay are abbrupt and about 12 feet high. it's bed is principally

mud. I have no doubt but it is navigable for boats perogues and canoes,

for the latter probably a great distance. the bottoms of this stream ar

wide, level, fertile and possess a considerable proportion of timber,

principally Cottonwood. from the quantity of water furnised by this

river it must water a large extent of country; perhaps this river also

might furnish a practicable and advantageous communication with the

Saskashiwan river; it is sufficiently large to justify a belief that it

might reach to that river if it's direction be such. the water of this

river possesses a peculiar whiteness, being about the colour of a cup

of tea with the admixture of a tablespoonful) of milk. from the colour

of it's water we called it Milk river. (we think it possible that this

may be the river called by the Minitares the river which scoalds at all

others or ____) Capt Clark who walked this morning on the Lard. shore

ascended a very high point opposite to the mouth of this river; he

informed me that he had a perfect view of this river and the country

through which it passed for a great distance (probably 50 or 60 Miles,)

that the country was level and beautifull on both sides of the river,

with large herds of Buffaloe distributed throughout that the river from

it's mouth boar N. W. for 12 or 15 Miles when it forked, the one taking

a direction nearly North, and the other to the West of N. West. from

the appearance of the vallies and the timber on each of these streams

Capt. C. supposed that they were about the same size. great appearance

of beaver on this river, and I have no doubt but what they continue

abundant, there being plenty of cottonwood and willow, the timber on

which they subsist. The country on the Lard. side of the river is

generally high broken hills, with much broken, grey black and brown

grannite scattered on the surface of the earth in a confused manner.

The wild Licquorice is found on the sides of these hills, in great

abundance. at a little distance from the river there is no timber to be

seen on either side; the bottom lands are not more than one fifth

covered with timber; the timber as below is confined to the borders of

the river. in future it will be understood that there is no timber of

any discription on the upland unless particularly mentioned; and also

that one fifth of the bottom lands being covered with timber is

considered a large proportion. The white apple is found in great

abundance in this neighbourhood; it is confined to the highlands

principally. The whiteapple, so called by the French Engages, is a

plant which rises to the hight of 6 or 9 Inchs. rarely exceeding a

foot; it puts forth from one to four and sometimes more stalks from the

same root, but is most generally found with one only, which is branched

but not defusely, is cylindric and villose; the leafstalks, cylindric,

villose and very long compared with the hight of the plant, tho

gradually diminish in length as they ascend, and are irregular in point

of position; the leaf, digitate, from three to five in number, oval 1

Inch long, absolutely entire and cottony; the whole plant of a pale

green, except the under disk of the leaf which is of a white colour

from the cottony substance with which it is covered. the radix a

tuberous bulb; generally ova formed, sometimes longer and more rarely

partially divided or brancing; always attended with one or more

radicles at it's lower extremity which sink from 4 to 6 inches deep.

the bulb covered with a rough black, tough, thin rind which easily

seperates from the bulb which is a fine white substance, somewhat

porus, spungy and moist, and reather tough before it is dressed; the

center of the bulb is penitrated with a small tough string or ligament,

which passing from the bottom of the stem terminates in the extremity

of the radicle, which last is also covered by a prolongation of the

rind which invellopes the bulb. The bulb is usually found at the debth

of 4 inches and frequently much deeper. This root forms a considerable

article of food with the Indians of the Missouri, who for this purpose

prepare them in several ways. they are esteemed good at all seasons of

the year, but are best from the middle of July to the latter end of

Autumn when they are sought and gathered by the provident part of the

natives for their winter store. when collected they are striped of

their rhind and strung on small throngs or chords and exposed to the

sun or placed in the smoke of their fires to dry; when well dryed they

will keep for several years, provided they are not permitted to become

moist or damp; in this situation they usually pound them between two

stones placed on a piece of parchment, untill they reduce it to a fine

powder thus prepared they thicken their soope with it; sometimes they

also boil these dryed roots with their meat without breaking them; when

green they are generally boiled with their meat, sometimes mashing them

or otherwise as they think proper. they also prepare an agreeable dish

with them by boiling and mashing them and adding the marrow grease of

the buffaloe and some buries, until the whole be of the consistency of

a haisty pudding. they also eat this root roasted and frequently make

hearty meals of it raw without sustaining any inconvenience or injury

therefrom. The White or brown bear feed very much on this root, which

their tallons assist them to procure very readily. the white apple

appears to me to be a tastless insippid food of itself tho I have no

doubt but it is a very healthy and moderately nutricious food. I have

no doubt but our epicures would admire this root very much, it would

serve them in their ragouts and gravies in stead of the truffles

morella.

We saw a great number buffaloe, Elk, common and Black taled deer, goats

beaver and wolves. Capt C. killed a beaver and a wolf, the party killed

3 beaver and a deer. We can send out at any time and obtain whatever

species of meat the country affords in as large quantity as we wish. we

saw where an Indian had recently grained, or taken the hair off of a

goatskin; we do not wish to see those gentlemen just now as we presume

they would most probably be the Assinniboins and might be troublesome

to us. Capt C. could not be certain but thought he saw the smoke and

some Indian lodges at a considrable distance up Milk river.

[Clark, May 8, 1805]

May the 8th Wednesday 1805

a verry black Cloud to the S W. we Set out under a gentle breeze from

the N. E. about 8 oClock began to rain, but not Sufficient to wet, we

passed the mouth of a large river on the Starboard Side 150 yards wide

and appears to be navagable. the Countrey thro which it passes as far

as Could be seen from the top of a verry high hill on which I was, a

butifull leavil plain this river forks about N W from its mouth 12 or

15 miles one fork runs from the North & the other to the West of N W.

the water of this river will justify a belief that it has its Sourse at

a considerable distance, and waters a great extent of Countrey--we are

willing to believe that this is the River the Minitarres Call the river

which Scolds at all others

the Countrey on the Lard. Side is high & broken with much Stone

Scattered on the hills, In walking on Shore with the Interpreter & his

wife, the Squar Geathered on the Sides of the hills wild Lickerish, &

the white apple as called by the angegies and gave me to eat, the

Indians of the Missouri make great use of the white apple dressed in

different ways--Saw great numbers of Buffalow, Elk, antelope & Deer,

also black tale deer beaver & wolves, I killed a beaver which I found

on the bank, & a wolf. The party killed 3 Beaver 1 Deer I saw where an

Indian had taken the hair off a goat Skin a fiew days past--Camped

early on the Lard. Side. The river we passed today we call Milk river

from the peculiar whiteness of it's water, which precisely resembles

tea with a considerable mixture of milk.

[Lewis, May 9, 1805]

Thursday May 9th 1805.

Set out at an early hour; the wind being favourable we used our sails

and proceeded very well; the country in appearance is much as yester,

with this difference that the land appears more fertile particularly of

the Lard. hills which are not so stoney and less broken; the timber has

also in some measure declined in quantity. today we passed the bed of

the most extraordinary river that I ever beheld. it is as wide as the

Missouri is at this place or 1/2 a mile wide and not containing a

single drop of runing water; some small standing pools being all the

water that could be per-ceived. it falls in on the Lard. side. I walked

up this river about three miles and ascended an eminence from which I

could perceive it many miles; it's course about South for 10 or 12

miles, when it viered around to the E of S. E. as far as I could see.

the valley of this river is wide and possesses but a scanty proportion

of timber; the hills which border it are not very high nor is the

country very broken; it is what may properly be designated a wavy or

roling country intersperced with some handsom level plains. the bank

are low and abbrupt, seldom more than 6 or eight feet above the level

of the bed, yet show but little appearance of being overflown; they are

of black or yellow clay or a rich sandy loam. the bed is entirely

composed of a light brown sand the particles of which as well as that

of the Missoury are remarkably fine. this river I presume must extend

back as far as the black hills and probably is the channel through

which a great extent of plain country discharge their superfluous

waters in the spring season. it had the appearance of having recently

discharged it's waters; and from the watermark, it did not appear that

it had been more than 2 feet deep at it's greatest hight. This stream

(if such it can properly be termed) we called Big dry river. about a

mile below this river on the same side a large creek falls in also dry

at present. The mineral salts and quarts appear in large quantities in

this neighbourhood. the sand of the Missouri from it's mouth to this

place has always possessed a mixture of granulated talk or I now think

most probably that it is this quarts. Capt C. killed 2 bucks and 2

buffaloe, I also killed one buffaloe which proved to be the best meat,

it was in tolerable order; we saved the best of the meat, and from the

cow I killed we saved the necessary materials for making what our

wrighthand cook Charbono calls the boudin blanc, and immediately set

him about preparing them for supper; this white pudding we all esteem

one of the greatest delacies of the forrest, it may not be amiss

therefore to give it a place. About 6 feet of the lower extremity of

the large gut of the Buffaloe is the first mosel that the cook makes

love to, this he holds fast at one end with the right hand, while with

the forefinger and thumb of the left he gently compresses it, and

discharges what he says is not good to eat, but of which in the squel

we get a moderate portion; the mustle lying underneath the shoulder

blade next to the back, and fillets are next saught, these are needed

up very fine with a good portion of kidney suit; to this composition is

then added a just proportion of pepper and salt and a small quantity of

flour; thus far advanced, our skilfull opporater C-o seizes his

recepticle, which has never once touched the water, for that would

intirely distroy the regular order of the whole procedure; you will not

forget that the side you now see is that covered with a good coat of

fat provided the anamal be in good order; the operator sceizes the

recepticle I say, and tying it fast at one end turns it inwards and

begins now with repeated evolutions of the hand and arm, and a brisk

motion of the finger and thumb to put in what he says is bon pour

manger; thus by stuffing and compressing he soon distends the

recepticle to the utmost limmits of it's power of expansion, and in the

course of it's longtudinal progress it drives from the other end of the

recepticle a much larger portion of the ____ than was prevously

discharged by the finger and thumb of the left hand in a former part of

the operation; thus when the sides of the recepticle are skilfully

exchanged the outer for the iner, and all is compleatly filled with

something good to eat, it is tyed at the other end, but not any cut

off, for that would make the pattern too scant; it is then baptised in

the missouri with two dips and a flirt, and bobbed into the kettle;

from whence after it be well boiled it is taken and fryed with bears

oil untill it becomes brown, when it is ready to esswage the pangs of a

keen appetite or such as travelers in the wilderness are seldom at a

loss for.

we saw a great quantity of game today particularly of Elk and Buffaloe,

the latter are now so gentle that the men frequently throw sticks and

stones at them in order to drive them out of the way. we also saw this

evening emence quantities of timber cut by the beaver which appeared to

have been done the preceeding year, in place particularly they had cut

all the timber down for three acres in front and on nearly one back

from the river and had removed a considerable proportion of it, the

timber grew very thick and some of it was as large as a man's body. the

river for several days has been as wide as it is generally near it's

mouth, tho it is much shallower or I should begin to dispair of ever

reaching it's source; it has been crouded today with many sandbars; the

water also appears to become clearer, it has changed it's complexin

very considerably. I begin to feel extreemly anxious to get in view of

the rocky mountains.

I killed four plover this evening of a different species from any I

have yet seen; it resembles the grey or whistling plover more than any

other of this family of birds; it is about the size of the yellow

legged or large grey plover common to the lower part of this river as

well as most parts of the Atlantic States where they are sometimes

called the Jack curloo; the eye is moderately large, are black with a

narrow ring of dark yellowish brown; the head, neck, upper part of the

body and coverts of the wings are of a dove coloured brown, which when

the bird is at rest is the predominant colour; the brest and belley are

of a brownish white; the tail is composed of 12 feathers of 3 Ins.

being of equal length, of these the two in the center are black, with

traverse bars of yellowish brown; the others are a brownish white. the

large feathers of the wings are white tiped with blacked. the beak is

black, 21/2 inches in length, slightly tapering, streight of a

cilindric form and blontly or roundly pointed; the chaps are of equal

length, and nostrils narrow. longitudional and connected; the feet and

legs are smoth and of a greenish brown; has three long toes and a short

one on each foot, the long toes are unconnected with a web, and the

short one is placed very high up the leg behind, insomuch that it dose

not touch the ground when the bird stands erect. the notes of this bird

are louder and more various than any other of this family that I have

seen.

[Clark, May 9, 1805]

May 9th Thursday 1805

a fine Day wind from the East we proceeded on verry well the Countrey

much the appearance which it had yesterday the bottom & high land rich

black earth, Timber not so abondant as below, we passed the mouth of a

river (or the appearance of a river) on the Lard. Side the bend of

which as far as we went up it or could See from a high hill is as large

as that of the Missouri at this place which is near half a mile this

river did not Contain one drop of running water, about a mile below

this river a large Creeke joins the river L. S. which is also Dry-

Those dry Streams which are also verry wide, I think is the Conveyance

of the melted Snow, & heavy rains which is Probable fall in from the

high mountanious Countrey which is Said to be between this river & the

Yellow Stone river--I walked on Shore the fore part of this day, &

observed Great quantities of the Shining Stone which we view as quarts,

I killed 2 Bucks & a Buffalow, Capt Lewis also killed one which verry

good meat, I saw emunerable herds of buffalow, & goats to day in every

derection--The Missouri keeps its width which is nearly as wide as near

its mouth, great number of Sand bars, the water not So muddy & Sand

finer & in Smaller perpotion. Capt. Lewis killed 4 pleaver different

from any I have ever before Seen, larger & have white breast & the

underfeathers of the wings are white &c.

[Lewis, May 9, 1805]

May 9th 1805.

I killed four plover this evening of a different kind from any I have

yet seen. it resembles the grey or whistling plover more than any other

of this family of birds, tho it is much larger. it is about the size of

the yellow leged plover common to the U States, and called the jack

curlooe by some. the legs are of a greenish brown; the toes, three and

one high at the heel unconnected with a webb, the breast and belly of a

brownish white; the head neck upper part of the body and coverts of the

wings are of a dove colured brown which when the bird is at rest is the

predomanent colour. the tale has 12 feathers of the same length of

which the two in the center are black with transverse bars of yellowish

bron, the others are a brownish white. the large feathers of the wings

are white tiped with black. the eyes are black with a small ring of

dark yellowish brown--the beak is black, 21/2 inches long, cilindrical,

streight, and roundly or blountly pointed. the notes of this bird are

louder and more various than of any other species which I have seen.-

[Lewis, May 10, 1805]

Friday May 10th 1805.

Set out at sunrise and proceeded but a short distance ere the wind

became so violent that we were obliged to come too, which we did on the

Lard. side in a suddon or short bend of the river where we were in a

great measure sheltered from the effects of the wind. the wind

continued violent all day, the clouds were thick and black, had a

slight sprinkle of rain several times in the course of the day. we sent

out several hunters to scower the country, to this we were induced not

so much from the want of provision as to discover the Indians whome we

had reasons to believe were in the neighbourhood, from the circumstance

of one of their dogs comeing to us this morning shortly after we

landed; we still beleive ourselves in the country usually hunted by the

Assinniboins, and as they are a vicious illy disposed nation we think

it best to be on our guard, accordingly we inspected the arms and

accoutrements the party and found them all in good order. The hunters

returned this evening having seen no tents or Indians nor any fresh

sign of them; they killed two Mule deer, one common fallow or

longtailed deer, 2 Buffaloe and 5 beaver, and saw several deer of the

Mule kind of immence size, and also three of the Bighorned anamals.

from the appearance of the Mule deer and the bighorned anamals we

beleive ourselves fast approaching a hilly or mountainous country; we

have rarely found the mule deer in any except a rough country; they

prefer the open grounds and are seldom found in the woodlands near the

river; when they are met with in the woodlands or river bottoms and are

pursued, they invariably run to the hills or open country as the Elk

do. the contrary happens with the common deer ther are several

esscential differences between the Mule and common deer as well in form

as in habits. they are fully a third larger in general, and the male is

particularly large; I think there is somewhat greater disparity of size

between the male and female of this speceis than there is between the

male and female fallow deer; I am convinced I have seen a buck of this

species twice the volume of a buck of any other species. the ears are

peculiarly large; I measured those of a large buck which I found to be

eleven inches long and 31/2 in width at the widest part; they are not

so delicately formed, their hair in winter is thicker longer and of a

much darker grey, in summer the hair is still coarser longer and of a

paleer red, more like that of the Elk; in winter they also have a

considerable quantity of a very fine wool intermixed with the hair and

lying next to the skin as the Antelope has. the long hair which grows

on the outer sides of the 1st joint of the hinder legs, and which in

the common deer do not usually occupy more than 2 inches in them

occupys from 6 to eight; their horns also differ, these in the common

deer consist of two main beams from which one or more points project

the beam graduly deminishing as the points procede from it, with the

mule deer the horns consist of two beams which at the distance of 4 or

6 inches from the head divide themselves each into two equal branches

which again either divide into two other equal branches or terminate in

a smaller, and two equal ones; having either 2 4 or 6 points on a beam;

the horn is not so rough about the base as the common deer and are

invariably of a much darker colour. the most striking difference of

all, is the white rump and tale. from the root of the tail as a center

there is a circular spot perfectly white, of abot 3 inches radius,

which occupys a part of the rump and extremitys of the buttocks and

joins the white of the belley underneath; the tail which is usually

from 8 to 9 inches long, for the first 4 or 5 inches from it's upper

extremity is covered with short white hairs, much shorter indeed than

the hairs of the body; from hence for about one inch further the hair

is still white but gradually becomes longer, the tail then terminates

in a tissue of black hair of about 3 Inches long. from this black hair

of the tail they have obtained among the French engages the appelation

of the black taled deer, but this I conceive by no means characteristic

of the anamal as much the larger portion of the tail is white. the year

and the tail of this anamal when compared with those of the common

(leer, so well comported with those of the mule when compared with the

horse, that we have by way of distinction adapted the appellation of

the mule deer which I think much more appropriate. on the inner corner

of each eye there is a drane or large recepicle which seems to answer

as a drane to the eye which gives it the appearance of weeping, this in

the common deer of the atlantic states is scarcely perceptable but

becomes more conspicuous in the fallow deer, and still more so in the

Elk; this recepticle in the Elk is larger than in any of the pecora

order with which I am acquainted.

Boils and imposthumes have been very common with the party Bratton is

now unable to work with one on his hand; soar eyes continue also to be

common to all of us in a greater or less degree. for the imposthume I

use emmolient poltices, and for soar eyes a solution of white vitriol

and the sugar of lead in the proportion of 2 grs. of the former and one

of the latter to each ounce of water.

[Clark, May 10, 1805]

May the 10th Friday 1805

river fell 3/4 of an inch last night, wind from the N. W, we proceeded

on but a short distance e'r'e the wind became So violent we could not

proceed came to on the Lard. Side in a Short bend, the wind Continued

all day Several times in the course of the day We had some fiew drops

of rain from verry black Clouds, no thunder or lightning latterly, Soon

after we landed a Dog came to us from the opposit Side, which induced a

belief that we had not passd. the Assinniboin Indians, parties wer Sent

on the hills in different derections to examine but Saw no tents or

fresh Sign. examined the arms &c. of the party found all in good order.

Three mule deer, two Buffalow & 5 beaver killed, 3 of the mountain ram

Seen.

[Lewis, May 11, 1805]

Saturday May 11th 1805. Set out this morning at an early hour, the

courant strong; and river very crooked; the banks are falling in very

fast; I sometimes wonder that some of our canoes or perogues are not

swallowed up by means of these immence masses of earth which are

eternally precipitating themselves into the river; we have had many

hair breadth escapes from them but providence seems so to have ordered

it that we have as yet sustained no loss in consequence of them. The

wind blue very hard the forepart of last night but abated toward

morning; it again arose in the after part of this day and retarded our

progress very much. the high lands are broken, the hills higher and

approach nearer the river, tho the soil of both hills and bottoms

appear equally as furtile as below; it consists of a black looking tome

with a moderate portion of sand; the hills and bluffs to the debth of

20 or thirty feet, seemed to be composed entirely of this loam; when

thrown in the water it desolves as readily as loaf sugar and

effervesses like marle. great appearance of quarts and mineral salts,

the latter appears both on the hills and bottoms, in the bottoms of the

gullies which make down from the hills it lies incrusting the earth to

the debth of 2 or 3 inches, and may with a fether be swept up and

collected in large quantities, I preserved several specimines of this

salts. the quarts appears most commonly in the faces of the bluffs. no

coal, burnt hills, or pumice stone. saw today some high hills on the

Stard. whose summits were covered with pine. Capt Clark went on shore

and visited them; he brought with him on his return som of the boughs

of this pine it is of the pitch kind but I think the leaves somewhat

longer than ours in Virginia. Capt C. also in his walk killed 2 Mule

deer a beaver and two buffaloe; these last he killed about 3 miles

above where we encamped this evening in the expectation that we would

reach that place, but we were unable to do so from the adverse winds

and other occurrences, and he came down and joined us about dark. there

is a dwarf cedar growing among the pine on the hills; it rises to the

hight thre sometimes 4 feet, but most generally spreads itself like a

vine along the surface of the earth, which it covers very closely,

puting out roots from the underside of the limbs; the leaf is finer and

more delicate than the common red ceader, it's fruit and smell are the

same with the red ceader. the tops of these hills which produce the

pine and cedar is of a different soil from that just described; it is a

light coloured poor sterile sandy soil, the base usually a yellow or

white clay; it produces scarcely any grass, some scattering tuffts of

sedge constitutes the greater part of it's grass. About 5 P.M. my

attention was struck by one of the Party runing at a distance towards

us and making signs and hollowing as if in distress, I ordered the

perogues to put too, and waited untill he arrived; I now found that it

was Bratton the man with the soar hand whom I had permitted to walk on

shore, he arrived so much out of breath that it was several minutes

before he could tell what had happened; at length he informed me that

in the woody bottom on the Lard. side about 11/2 below us he had shot a

brown bear which immediately turned on him and pursued him a

considerable distance but he had wounded it so badly that it could not

overtake him; I immediately turned out with seven of the party in quest

of this monster, we at length found his trale and persued him about a

mile by the blood through very thick brush of rosbushes and the large

leafed willow; we finally found him concealed in some very thick brush

and shot him through the skull with two balls; we proceeded dress him

as soon as possible, we found him in good order; it was a monstrous

beast, not quite so large as that we killed a few days past but in all

other rispects much the same the hair is remarkably long fine and rich

tho he appears parshally to have discharged his winter coat; we now

found that Bratton had shot him through the center of the lungs,

notwithstanding which he had pursued him near half a mile and had

returned more than double that distance and with his tallons had

prepared himself a bed in the earth of about 2 feet deep and five long

and was perfectly alive when we found him which could not have been

less than 2 hours after he received the wound; these bear being so hard

to die reather intimedates us all; I must confess that I do not like

the gentlemen and had reather fight two Indians than one bear; there is

no other chance to conquer them by a single shot but by shooting them

through the brains, and this becomes difficult in consequence of two

large muscles which cover the sides of the forehead and the sharp

projection of the center of the frontal bone, which is also of a pretty

good thickness. the flece and skin were as much as two men could

possibly carry. by the time we returned the sun had set and I

determined to remain here all night, and directed the cooks to render

the bear's oil and put it in the kegs which was done. there was about

eight gallons of it.

the wild Hysop grows here and in all the country through which we have

passed for many days past; tho from big Dry river to this place it has

been more abundant than below, and a smaller variety of it grows on the

hills, the leaves of which differ considerably being more deeply

indented near it's extremity. the buffaloe deer and Elk feed on this

herb in the winter season as they do also on the small willow of the

sandbars. there is another growth that begins now to make it's

appearance in the bottom lands and is becoming extreemly troublesome;

it is a shrub which rises to the hight of from two to four feet, much

branched, the bark of the trunk somewhat rough hard and of light grey

colour; the wood is firm and stif, the branches beset with a great

number of long, shap, strong, wooddy looking thorns; the leaf is about

3/4 or an inch long, and one 1/8 of an inch wide, it is obtuse,

absolutely entire, veinless fleshy and gibbose; has no perceptable

taste or smell, and no anamal appears to eat it. by way of designating

when I mention it hereafter I shall call it the fleshey leafed thorn

[Clark, May 11, 1805]

May the 11th Satturday 1805.

Wind hard fore part of last night the latter part verry Cold a white

frost this morning, the river riseing a little and verry Crooked the

high land is rugged and approaches nearer than below, the hills and

bluff exhibit more mineral quats & Salts than below, the gullies in

maney places are white, and their bottoms one, two & 3 Inches deep of

this mineral, no appearance of either burnt pumice Stone or Coal, the

Countrey hilley on both Sides of a rich black earth, which disolves

This kind of Countrey Continues of the Same quallity for maney miles on

either Side, we observed Some hills which appeared to be timbered, I

walked to this timber and found it to pitch pine & Dwarf Cedar, we

observe in every derection Buffalow, Elk, Antelopes & Mule deer

inumerable and So jintle that we Could approach near them with great

ease, I killed 2 Mule Deer for the benifit of their Skins for the

party, and about the place I expected the party would get to Camp I

killed 2 fat Bulls for theire use, in my absence they had killed a fine

fat Yellow bear below which detained them and they did not reach the

place I expected, but had Camped on the Lard. Side about 2 miles below

on my return to the party I killed a fat Beaver the wind blew verry

hard from the S. W. all the after part of this day which retarded our

progress verry much. river rose 2 In

[Lewis, May 12, 1805]

Sunday May 12th 1805.

Set out at an early hour, the weather clear and Calm; I walked on shore

this morning for the benifit of exersize which I much wanted, and also

to examine the country and it's productions, in these excurtions I most

generally went alone armed with my rifle and espontoon; thus equiped I

feel myself more than an equal match for a brown bear provided I get

him in open woods or near the water, but feel myself a little diffident

with respect to an attack in the open plains, I have therefore come to

a resolution to act on the defencive only, should I meet these

gentlemen in the open country. I ascended the hills and had a view of a

rough and broken country on both sides of the river; on the North side

the summits of the hills exhibit some scattering pine and cedar, on the

South side the pine has not yet commenced tho there is some cedar on

the face of the hills and in the little ravines. the choke cherry also

grows here in the hollows and at the heads of the gullies; the choke

Cherry has been in blume since the ninth inst. this growth has

freequently made it's appearance on the Missouri from the neighbourhood

of the Baldpated Prarie, to this place in the form of it's leaf colour

and appearance of it's bark, and general figure of it's growth it

resembles much the Morillar cherry,1 tho much smaller not generally

rising to a greater hight than from 6 to 10 feet and ascociating in

thick clusters or clumps in their favorit situations which is usually

the heads of small ravines or along the sides of small brooks which

flow from the hills. the flowers which are small and white are

supported by a common footstalk as those of the common wild cherry are,

the corolla consists of five oval petals, five stamen and one

pistillum, and of course of the Class and order Pentandria Monogynia.

it bears a fruit which much resembles the wild cherry in form and

colour tho larger and better flavoured; it's fruit ripens about the

begining of July and continues on the trees untill the latter end of

September--The Indians of the Missouri make great uce of this cherry

which they prepare for food in various ways, sometimes eating when

first plucked from the trees or in that state pounding them mashing the

seed boiling them with roots or meat, or with the prarie beans and

white-apple; again for their winter store they geather them and lay

them on skins to dry in the sun, and frequently pound them and make

them up in small roles or cakes and dry them in the sun; when thus

dryed they fold them in skins or put them in bags of parchment and keep

them through the winter either eating them in this state or boiling

them as before mentioned. the bear and many birds also feed on these

burries. the wild hysop sage, fleshey leaf thorn, and some other herbs

also grow in the plains and hills, particularly the arromatic herb on

which the Antelope and large hare feed. The soil has now changed it's

texture considerably; the base of the hills and river bottoms continue

the same and are composed of a rich black loam while the summits of the

hills and about half their hight downwards are of a light brown colour,

poor sterile and intermixed with a coarse white sand. about 12 OClock

the wind veered about to the N. W. and blew so hard that we were

obliged to Ly by the ballance of the day. we saw great quantities of

game as usual. the bottom lands still becomeing narrower.

About sunset it began to rain, and continued to fall a few drops at a

time untill midnight; the wind blew violently all night.

[Clark, May 12, 1805]

May 12th Sunday 1805.

Set out at an early hour, the morning Clear and Calm, Capt. Lewis

walked on Shore this morning about 12 oClock the wind becam Strong from

the E. about half past one oClock the wind Shifted round to the N. W.

and blew verry hard all the latter part of the day, which obliged us to

Lay by--The Countrey is hilley & rugged and the earth of a lightish

brown and but indifferent, Some Small Cedar is Scattered on the Sides

of the hils & in the hollars, Some pine ridges is also to be Seen on

the North Side, we observe great quantites of game as usual. I killed a

beaver in the water, Saw Several Sitting on the bank near the waters

edge about Sunset it began to rain, and rained very moderately only a

fiew drops at a time for about half the night, wind Continued violent

all night

[Lewis, May 13, 1805]

Monday May 13th 1805.

The wind continued to blow so violently this morning that we did not

think it prudent to set out. sent out some hunters. At 1 P.M. the wind

abated, and altho the hunters had not all returned we set out; the

courant reather stronger than usual and the water continues to become

reather clearer, from both which I anticipate a change of Country

shortly. the country much the same as yesterday; but little timber in

the bottoms and a scant proportion of pine an cedar crown the Stard.

hills. Capt C. who was on shore the greater part of the day killed a

mule and a Common deer, the party killed several deer and some Elk

principally for the benefit of their skins which are necessary to them

for cloathing, the Elk skins I now begin to reserve for making the

leather boat at the falls. the hunters joined us this evening; Gibson

had wounded a very large brown bear but it was too late in the evening

to pursue him.

[Clark, May 13, 1805]

13th of May Monday 1805

The wind Continued to blow hard untill one oClock P M. to day at which

time it fell a little and we Set out and proceeded on verry well about

9 miles and Camped on the Lard Side. the countrey much the Same

appearance as yesterday but little timber in the bottoms; Some Pine in

places on the Stard. Hills. I killed two deer this evening one a mule

deer & the other a common Deer, the party killed Several this morning

all for the use of their Skins which are now good, one man Gibson

wounded a verry large brown bear, too late this evening to prosue him-

We passed two Creeks in a bend to the Lard Side neither them had any

water, are somewhat wider; passed some high black bluffs. saw immence

herds of buffaloe today also Elk deer wolves and Antelopes. passed

three large creeks one on the Stard. and two others on the Lard. side,

neither of which had any runing water. Capt Clark walked on shore and

killed a very fine buffaloe cow. I felt an inclination to eat some veal

and walked on shore and killed a very fine buffaloe calf and a large

woolf, much the whitest I had seen, it was quite as white as the wool

of the common sheep. one of the party wounded a brown bear very badly,

but being alone did not think proper to pursue him. In the evening the

men in two of the rear canoes discovered a large brown bear lying in

the open grounds about 300 paces from the river, and six of them went

out to attack him, all good hunters; they took the advantage of a small

eminence which concealed them and got within 40 paces of him

unperceived, two of them reserved their fires as had been previously

conscerted, the four others fired nearly at the same time and put each

his bullet through him, two of the balls passed through the bulk of

both lobes of his lungs, in an instant this monster ran at them with

open mouth, the two who had reserved their fires discharged their

pieces at him as he came towards them, boath of them struck him, one

only slightly and the other fortunately broke his shoulder, this

however only retarded his motion for a moment only, the men unable to

reload their guns took to flight, the bear pursued and had very nearly

overtaken them before they reached the river; two of the party betook

themselves to a canoe and the others seperated an concealed themselves

among the willows, reloaded their pieces, each discharged his piece at

him as they had an opportunity they struck him several times again but

the guns served only to direct the bear to them, in this manner he

pursued two of them seperately so close that they were obliged to throw

aside their guns and pouches and throw themselves into the river altho

the bank was nearly twenty feet perpendicular; so enraged was this

anamal that he plunged into the river only a few feet behind the second

man he had compelled take refuge in the water, when one of those who

still remained on shore shot him through the head and finally killed

him; they then took him on shore and butched him when they found eight

balls had passed through him in different directions; the bear being

old the flesh was indifferent, they therefore only took the skin and

fleece, the latter made us several gallons of oil; it was after the sun

had set before these men come up with us, where we had been halted by

an occurrence, which I have now to recappitulate, and which altho

happily passed without ruinous injury, I cannot recollect but with the

utmost trepidation and horror; this is the upseting and narrow escape

of the white perogue It happened unfortunately for us this evening that

Charbono was at the helm of this Perogue, in stead of Drewyer, who had

previously steered her; Charbono cannot swim and is perhaps the most

timid waterman in the world; perhaps it was equally unluckey that Capt.

C. and myself were both on shore at that moment, a circumstance which

rarely happened; and tho we were on the shore opposite to the perogue,

were too far distant to be heard or to do more than remain spectators

of her fate; in this perogue ____ were embarked, our papers,

Instruments, books medicine, a great part of our merchandize and in

short almost every article indispensibly necessary to further the

views, or insure the success of the enterprize in which we are now

launched to the distance of 2200 miles. surfice it to say, that the

Perogue was under sail when a sudon squawl of wind struck her

obliquely, and turned her considerably, the steersman allarmed, in

stead of puting her before the wind, lufted her up into it, the wind

was so violent that it drew the brace of the squarsail out of the hand

of the man who was attending it, and instantly upset the perogue and

would have turned her completely topsaturva, had it not have been from

the resistance mad by the oarning against the water; in this situation

Capt. C and myself both fired our guns to attract the attention if

possible of the crew and ordered the halyards to be cut and the sail

hawled in, but they did not hear us; such was their confusion and

consternation at this moment, that they suffered the perogue to lye on

her side for half a minute before they took the sail in, the perogue

then wrighted but had filled within an inch of the gunwals; Charbono

still crying to his god for mercy, had not yet recollected the rudder,

nor could the repeated orders of the Bowsman, Cruzat, bring him to his

recollection untill he threatend to shoot him instantly if he did not

take hold of the rudder and do his duty, the waves by this time were

runing very high, but the fortitude resolution and good conduct of

Cruzat saved her; he ordered 2 of the men to throw out the water with

some kettles that fortunately were convenient, while himself and two

others rowed her ashore, where she arrived scarcely above the water; we

now took every article out of her and lay them to drane as well as we

could for the evening, baled out the canoe and secured her; there were

two other men beside Charbono on board who could not swim, and who of

course must also have perished had the perogue gone to the bottom.

while the perogue lay on her side, finding I could not be heard, I for

a moment forgot my own situation, and involluntarily droped my gun,

threw aside my shot pouch and was in the act of unbuttoning my coat,

before I recollected the folly of the attempt I was about to make,

which was to throw myself into the river and indevour to swim to the

perogue; the perogue was three hundred yards distant the waves so high

that a perogue could scarcely live in any situation, the water

excessively could, and the stream rappid; had I undertaken this project

therefore, there was a hundred to one but what I should have paid the

forfit of my life for the madness of my project, but this had the

perogue been lost, I should have valued but little.--After having all

matters arranged for the evening as well as the nature of circumstances

would permit, we thought it a proper occasion to console ourselves and

cheer the sperits of our men and accordingly took a drink of grog and

gave each man a gill of sperits.

[Clark, May 14, 1805]

14th of May Tuesday 1805

A verry Clear Cold morning a white frost & some fog on the river the

Thermomtr Stood at 32 above 0, wind from the S. W. we proceeded on

verry well untill about 6 oClock a Squawl of wind Struck our Sale broad

Side and turned the perogue nearly over, and in this Situation the

Perogue remained untill the Sale was Cut down in which time She nearly

filed with water--the articles which floated out was nearly all caught

by the Squar who was in the rear. This accident had like to have cost

us deerly; for in this perogue were embarked our papers, Instruments,

books, medicine, a great proportion of our merchandize, and in short

almost every article indispensibly necessary to further the views, or

insure the success of the enterprize in which, we are now launched to

the distance of 2,200 miles. it happened unfortunately that Capt. Lewis

and myself were both on shore at the time of this occurrence, a

circumstance which seldom took place; and tho we were on the shore

opposit to the perogue were too far distant to be heard or do more than

remain spectators of her fate; we discharged our guns with the hope of

attracting the attention of the crew and ordered the sail to be taken

in but such was their consternation and confusion at the instant that

they did not hear us. when however they at length took in the sail and

the perogue wrighted; the bowsman Cruzatte by repeated threats so far

brought Charbono the Sternman to his recollection that he did his duty

while two hands bailed the perogue and Cruzatte and two others rowed

her on shore were she arrived scarcely above the water. we owe the

preservation of the perogue to the resolution and fortitude of Cruzatte

The Countrey like that of yesterday, passed a Small Island and the

enterence of 3 large Creeks, one on the Stard. & the other 2 on the

Lard Side, neither of them had any running water at this time--Six good

hunters of the party fired at a Brown or Yellow Bear Several times

before they killed him, & indeed he had like to have defeated the whole

party, he pursued them Seperately as they fired on him, and was near

Catching Several of them one he pursued into the river, this bear was

large & fat would way about 500 wt; I killed a Buffalow, & Capt. Lewis

a Calf & a wolf this evening.

[Lewis, May 15, 1805]

Wednesday May 15th

as soon as a slight shower of rain passed over this morning, we spread

the articles to dry which had got wet yesterday in the white perogue;

tho the day proved so cloudy and damp that they received but little

benifit from the sun or air; we were enabled to put them in such a

state as to prevent their sustaining further injury. our hunters killed

several deer, and saw three bear one of which they wounded.

[Clark, May 15, 1805]

May 15th Wednesday 1805

Our medisons, Instruments, merchandize, Clothes, provisions &c. &c.

which was nearly all wet we had put out to air and dry. the day being

Cloudy & rainey those articles dried but little to day--our hunters

killed Several deer &c. and Saw three Bear one of which they wounded &c.

We see Buffalow on the banks dead, others floating down dead, and

others mired every day, those buffalow either drown in Swiming the

river or brake thro the ice

[Lewis, May 16, 1805]

Thursday May 16th

The morning was fair and the day proved favorable to our operations; by

4 oClock in the evening our Instruments, Medicine, merchandize

provision &c, were perfectly dryed, repacked and put on board the

perogue. the loss we sustained was not so great as we had at first

apprehended; our medicine sustained the greatest injury, several

articles of which were intirely spoiled, and many others considerably

injured; the ballance of our losses consisted of some gardin seeds, a

small quantity of gunpowder, and a few culinary articles which fell

overboard and sunk, the Indian woman to whom I ascribe equal fortitude

and resolution, with any person onboard at the time of the accedent,

caught and preserved most of the light articles which were washed

overboard all matters being now arranged for our departure we lost no

time in seting out; proceeced on tolerably well about seven miles and

encamped on the Stard. side. in the early part of the day two of our

men fired on a panther, a little below our encampment, and wounded it;

they informed us that it was very large, had just killed a deer partly

devoured it, and in the act of concealing the ballance as they

discovered him. we caught two Antelopes at our encampment in attempting

to swim the river; these anamals are but lean as yet, and of course not

very pleasant food. I walked on shore this evening and killed a

buffaloe cow and calf, we found the calf most excellent veal. the

country on either side of the river is broken and hills much higher

than usual, the bottoms now become narrow and the timber more scant;

some scattering pine and cedar on the steep declivities of the hills.-

this morning a white bear toar Labuiche's coat which he had left in the

plains.

[Clark, May 16, 1805]

May 16th Thursday 1805 a fair morning our articles all out to Dry at 4

oClock we had every thing that was Saved dry and on bord, our loss is

Some medison, Powder, Seeds, & Several articles which Sunk, and maney

Spoiled had a medn. altitude which gave for Latd. _° _' _" N.--two of our

men fired at a pant hr a little below our Camp, this animale they say

was large, had Caught a Deer & eate it half & buried the ballance. a

fiew antilope Swam the river near our Camp two of them were Cought by

the party in the river. at half past 4 oClock we Set out and proceeded

on verry well ____ miles and incamped on the Std. Side the Countrey as

before hilley & broken verry Small proprotion of timber in the points,

Some little pine & Ceader in the hills

Buffalow & Deer is yet plenty on the river in the small timbered

bottoms Capt Lewis walked out on the Std. Side and killed a Cow & Calf

the calf was verry fine their bases. it is somewhat singular that the

lower part of these hills appear to be formed of a dark rich loam while

the upper region about 150 feet is formed of a whiteish brown sand, so

hard in many parts as to resemble stone; but little rock or stone of

any kind to be seen in these hills. the river is much narrower than

usual, the bed from 200 to 300 yards only and possessing a much larger

proportion of gravel than usual. a few scattering cottonwood trees are

the only timber near the river; the sandbars, and with them the willow

points have almost entirely disappeared. greater appearance than usual

of the saline incrustations of the banks and river hills. we passed two

creeks the one on Stard. side, and the other just below our camp on the

Lard. side; each of these creeks afford a small quantity of runing

water, of a brackish tast. the great number of large beds of streams

perfectly dry which we daily pass indicate a country but badly watered,

which I fear is the case with the country through which we have been

passing for the last fifteen or twenty days. Capt Clark walked on shore

this evening and killed an Elk; buffaloe are not so abundant as they

were some days past. the party with me killed a female brown bear, she

was but meagre, and appeared to have suckled young very recently. Capt.

Clark narrowly escaped being bitten by a rattlesnake in the course of

his walk, the party killed one this evening at our encampment, which he

informed me was similar to that he had seen; this snake is smaller than

those common to the middle Atlantic States, being about 2 feet 6 inches

long; it is of a yellowish brown colour on the back and sides,

variagated with one row of oval spots of a dark brown colour lying

transversely over the back from the neck to the tail, and two other

rows of small circular spots of the same colour which garnis the sides

along the edge of the scuta. it's bely contains 176 scuta on the belly

and 17 on the tale. Capt Clark informed me that he saw some coal which

had been brought down by the water of the last creek we passed; this

creek also throws out considerable quantities of Driftwood, though

there is no timber on it which can be perceived from the Missouri; we

called this stream rattlesnake creek. Capt Clark saw an Indian

fortifyed camp this evening, which appeared to have been recently

occupyed, from which we concluded it was probable that it had been

formed by a war party of the Menetares who left their vilage in March

last with a view to attack the blackfoot Indians in consequence of

their having killed some of their principal warriors the previous

autumn. we were roused late at night by the Sergt. of the guard, and

warned of the danger we were in from a large tree that had taken fire

and which leant immediately over our lodge. we had the loge removed,

and a few minutes after a large proportion of the top of the tree fell

on the place the lodge had stood; had we been a few minutes later we

should have been crushed to attoms. the wind blew so hard, that

notwithstanding the lodge was fifty paces distant from the fire it

sustained considerable injury from the burning coals which were thrown

on it; the party were much harrassed also by this fire which

communicated to a collection of fallen timber, and could not be

extinguished.

[Clark, May 17, 1805]

May 17th Friday 1805

a fine morning wind from the N W. mercury at 60° a 0. river falling a

little. we Set out at an early hour and proceeded on verry well by the

assistance of the Toe rope principally, the Countrey verry rugged &

hills high and the river washing the base on each Side, Great

appearance of the Salt Substance. a fiew Cotton trees is the only

timber which is Scattered in the bottoms & the hills contain a fiew

Pine & Cedar, which is Scattered. river much narrower than below from 2

to 300 yards wide, the bottoms muddey & hills rich earth except near

their topes--We passed 2 large Creeks to day one on the Starbd Side and

the other just below our camp on the Lard. Side each of those creeks

has a little running water near their mouthes which has a brackish

taste, I was nearly treading on a Small fierce rattle Snake different

from any I had ever Seen &c. one man the party killed another of the

Same kind. I walked on Shore after dinner & killed an Elk--the party in

my absence Killed a female Brown or yellow Bear which was meagre the

appearances of the Hills & Countrey is as before mentioned except a

greater appearance of the white appearance of Salts or tarter and Some

Coal which has been thrown out by the floods in the last Creek-

Buffalow & Deer is not plenty to day, Elk is yet to be Seen in

abundance we Camped in the upper part of a Small timbered bottom on the

Lard. Side in which I Saw a fortified Indian Camp, which I Suppose is

one of the Camps of a Mi ne tar re war party of about 15 men, that Set

out from their village in March last to war against the Blackfoot

Indians.

we were roused late at night and warned of the danger of fire from a

tree which had Cought and leaned over our Lodge, we had the lodge moved

Soon after the Dry limbs & top of the tree fell in the place the Lodge

Stood, the wind blew hard and the dry wood Cought & fire flew in every

direction, burnt our Lodge verry much from the Coals which fell on it

altho at Some distance in the plain, the whole party was much disturbed

by this fire which could not be extinguished &c

[Lewis, May 18, 1805]

Saturday May 18th 1805.

The wind blew hard this morning from the West. we were enabled to

employ our toe line the greater part of the day and therefore proceeded

on tolerably well. there are now but few sandbars, the river is narrow

and current gentle. the timber consists of a few cottonwood trees along

the verge of the river; the willow has in a great measure disappeared.

in the latter part of the day the hills widened, the bottoms became

larger, and contained more timber. we passed a creek on the Stard. side

about three oclock, which afforded no water; came too and encamped on

the Lard. side opposite to the lower point of a small Island, two miles

short of the extremity of the last course of this day. Capt Clark in

the course of his walk this evening killed four deer, two of which were

the black tailed or mule deer; the skins are now good, they have not

yet produced their young.--we saw a number of buffaloe, Elk, deer and

Antelopes.--the saline substance frequently mentioned continues to

appear as usual.-

[Clark, May 18, 1805]

May 18th Satturday 1805

A windey morning wind from the West we proceeded on verry well with the

assistance of the Toe Coard, river narrow but flew Sand bars, & current

jentle, but a few Cotton Trees Contained in the bottoms willow is not

common on the bears as usial Some little on the Sides of the river is

yet to be Seen, the after part of the day was Cloudy & at about 12

oClock it began to rain and continued moderately for about 11/2 hours,

not Sufficient to wet a man thro his clothes; this is the first rain

Since we Set out this Spring The hills widen and the bottoms Contain

more timber than for Several days past, we passed a Wisers Creek on the

Std. Side about 3 oClock and Camped on the Lard Side opposit the lower

point of a handsom little Island near the middle of the river. I walked

on Shore and killed four Deer, 2 common & 2 mule deer, one of which had

3 fauns, 2 others had 2 each, those deer are fat, & their Skins

tolerable good, which are now in demand with us for clothes Such as

Legins & Mockersons, I Saw great numbers of Buffalows & Elk; Some of

the party Shoot & Catch beaver every day & night

[Lewis, May 19, 1805]

Sunday May 19th 1805.

The last night was disagreeably could; we were unable to set out untill

8 oclock A.M. in consequence of a heavy fogg, which obscured the river

in such a manner that we could not see our way; this is the first we

have experienced in any thing like so great a degree; there was also a

fall of due last evening, which is the second we have experienced since

we have entered this extensive open country. at eight we set out and

proceeded as yesterday by means of the cord principally, the hills are

high and the country similar to that of yesterday. Capt Clark walked on

shore with two of the hunters and killed a brown bear; notwithstanding

that it was shot through the heart it ran at it's usual pace near a

quarter of a mile before it fell. one of the party wounded a beaver,

and my dog as usual swam in to catch it; the beaver bit him through the

hind leg and cut the artery; it was with great difficulty that I could

stop the blood; I fear it will yet prove fatal to him. on Capt. Clark's

return he informed me that he had from the top of one of the adjacent

hights discovered the entrance of a large stream which discharged

itself into the Missouri on the Lard. side distant 6 or seven miles;

from the same place he also saw a range of Mountains, bearing W.

distant 40 or 50 miles; they appeared to proceed in a S. S. W.

direction; the N. N. E. extremity of these mountains appeared abrupt.

This afternoon the river was croked, rappid and containing more sawyers

than we have seen in the same space since we left the entrance of the

river Platte. Capt. C. in the course of his walk killed three deer and

a beaver, I also walked on shore this evening a few miles and killed an

Elk, a buck, and a beaver. the party killed and caught 4 other beaver &

3 deer.

The men complain much of sore eyes and imposthumes.

[Clark, May 19, 1805]

May 19th Sunday 1805

a verry cold night, the murckery Stood at 38 at 8 oClock this morning,

a heavy dew which is the 2d I have Seen this Spring. The fog (which was

the first) was So thick this morning that we could not Set out untill

the Sun was about 2 hours up, at which time a Small breeze Sprung up

from the E. which Cleared off the fog & we proceeded on by means of the

Cord The hills are high & rugged the Countrey as yesterday--I walked on

Shore with two men we killed a white or grey bear; not withstanding

that it was Shot through the heart it ran at it's usial pace near a

quarter of a mile before it fell. Capt Lewis's dog was badly bitten by

a wounded beaver and was near bleading to death-. after killing the

Bear I continued my walk alone, & killed 3 Deer & a Beaver; finding

that the Perogues were below I assended the highest hill I could See,

from the top of which I Saw the mouth of M. Shell R & the meanderings

of the Missouri for a long distance. I also Saw a high mountain in a

westerley direction, bearing S. S W. about 40 or 50 miles distant, in

the evening the river was verry Crooked and much more rapid &

Containing more Sawyers than any which we have passed above the River

Platte Capt Lewis walked on Shore this after noon & killed an Elk, Buck

& a Beaver, I kiled three Deer at dinner, the hunters killed three

other Deer to day Several beaver also killed. We Camped on the Stard

Side in a bottom of Small Cotton wood

[Lewis, May 20, 1805]

Monday May 20th 1805

Set out at an early hour as usual, the banks being favourable and water

strong we employed the toe rope principally; river narrow and croked;

country much as that of yesterday; immence number of the prickley pears

in the plains and on the hills. At the distance of 21/4 miles passed

the entrance of a large Creek, affording but little water; this stream

we named Blowing Fly Creek, from the immence quantities of those

insects found in this neighbourhood, they infest our meat while

roasting or boiling, and we are obliged to brush them off our provision

as we eat. At 11 A.M. we arrived at the entrance of a handsome bold

river which discharges itself into the Missouri on the Lard. side; this

stream we take to be that called by the Minnetares the ____ or

Muscleshell River; if it be the same, of which I entertain but little

doubt, it takes it's rise, by their information in the 1st Chain of the

Rocky Mountains at no great distance from the Yellow stone river, from

whence in it's course to this place it passes through a high and broken

country pretty well timbered, particularly on it's borders, and

intersperced with handsome fertile plains and medows. but from the

circumstance of the same Indians informing us that we should find a

well timbered country in the neighbourhood of it's mouth, I am induced

to beleive that the timbered country of which they speak is similar to

that we have passed for a day or two, or that in our view above, which

consists of nothing more than a few scattering small scrubby pine and

dwarf cedar on the summits of some of the highest hills nine tenths of

the country being wholy destitute of timber of any kind, covered with a

short grass, arromatic herbs and the prickley pear; the river bottom

however, so far as we have explored it or 8 m. are well stocked with

Cottonwood timber of tollerable size, & lands of excellent quality. We

halted at thentrance of the river on the point formed by it's junction

with the Missouri determining to spend the day, make the necessary

observations and send out some hunters to explore the country. The

Muscle Shell river falls into the Missouri 2270 miles above it's mouth,

and is 110 yards in width, it affords much more water than streams of

it's width generally do below, it's courant is by no means rappid, and

from appearances it might be navigated with canoes a considerable

distance; it's bed is coarse sand and gravel principally with an

occasion mixture of black mud; it's banks abbrupt and about 12 feet

high yet never appear to overflow; the waters of this river is of a

greenish yellow cast, much more transparent than the Missouri, which

last is also much more transparent than below but still retains it's

whiteish hue and a proportion of it's sedement. the Missouri opposite

to this point is deep, gentle in it's courant, and 222 yards in width.

The hunters returned this evening and informed us that the country

continued much the same in appearance as that we saw where we were or

broken, and that about five miles abe the mouth of shell river a

handsome river of about fifty yards in width discharged itself into the

shell river on the Stard. or upper side; this stream we called

Sah-ca-gar me-ah or bird woman's River, after our interpreter the Snake

woman. Shields also found a bould spring or fountain issuing from the

foot of the Lard. hills about 4 miles up the Missouri; a fountain in

this plain country is a great novelty; I have not seen a bould fountain

of pure water except one since I left the Mandans; there a number of

small ones but all without exception are impregnated with the salts

which abound in this country, and with which I believe the Missoury

itself considerably impregnated but to us in the habit of useing it not

perceptible; the exception I make is a very fine fountain under the

bluffs on the Lard. side of the Missouri and at a distance from the

river about five miles below the entrance of the yellowstone River. The

sands of the Missouri are not so abundant as they have been for some

time past, being confined to the points only; the bed of the river

principally mud and still too deep to use the seting pole. Capt. Clark

walked out today and killed two deer and an Elk, the hunters killed 4

deer and elk and a buffaloe. I saw two large Owls with remarkable long

feathers on the sides of the head which resembled ears; I take them to

be the large hooting owl tho they are somewhat larger and their colours

brighter than those common to the J States.-

[Clark, May 20, 1805]

May 20th Monday 1805

a fine morning wind from the N E. river falling a little We Set out at

7 oClock and proceeded on verry well as usial by the assistance of the

Cord passed Some verry Swift water, river narrow and Crooked, at 11

oClock arrived at the mouth of Shell river on the Lard Side and formed

a Camp for the present. haveing passed a large Creek about 4 miles

below on the Ld Side which we call Blowing fly Creek from the emence

quantites of those insects which geather on our meat in Such numbers

that we are oblige to brush them off what we eate.

muscle Shell River falls in on Lard Side 2270 miles up Contains a

greater perportion of water than Rivers of its Size below, I measured

it and find it to be 110 yards wide, the water of a Greenish yellow

Colour, and appers to be navagable for Small Craft, The Minetarras

inform us that this river heads in the 1st of the rockey Mountains &

passes through a broken Countrey. its head at no great distance from

the Yellow Stone River The Countrey about this river as described

yesterday we took the Meredian altitude 59° 50' 0" back observation and

found the Latd. to be 47° 0' 24"

The Missouri at the mouth of Shell River is 222 yards wide with a Smoth

Current the Missouri water is not So muddey as below, but retains

nearly its usial Cholour, and the Sands principally Confined to the

points I killed two Deer & an Elk, the hunters killed an Elk & Several

deer mearly for their Skins to make Leagins,--Sent men out in every

derection, the Countrey generally verry broken Some leavel plains up

the Shell river The bottoms of the Shell river is well timbered as also

a Small river which falls into that river on the upper Side 5 miles

above its mouth. The hills on the Lard. Contain Scattering Pine & Cedar.

[Lewis, May 21, 1805]

Tuesday May 21st 1805

A delightfull morning set out at an early hour and proceeded on very

well, imployed the chord principally; the shores are abbrupt and bould

and composed of a black and yellow clay; see no extensive collection of

pure sand, the bars are composed black mud and a small poportion of

fine sand; the courant still pretty strong. the Missouri in it's course

downward makes a suddon and extensive bend to receive the Muscle shell

river, the point of country thus formed tho high is still much lower

than that surrounding it, thus forming a valley of wavey country which

extends itself for a great distance in a Northerly direction; the soil

is fertile, produces a fine turf of low grass and some herbs, also

immence quantities of the Prickley pear, without a stick of timber of

any discription. the country on the South side is high broken and

crowned with some scrubby pines and dwarf cedar; the leaf of this pine

is much longer than the common pitch or red pine of Virginia, the cone

is also longer and slimer, and the imbrications wider and thicker, and

the whole frequently covered with rosin. Mineral appearances as usual.

the growse or praire hen are now less abundant on the river than they

were below; perhaps they betake themselves to the open plains at a

distance from the river at this season.-

The wind which was moderate all the fore part of the day continued to

encrease in the evening, and about dark veered about to N. W. and blew

a storm all night, in short we found ourselves so invelloped with

clouds of dust and sand that we could neither cook, eat, nor sleep; and

were finally compelled to remove our lodge about eight oClock at night

to the foot of an adjacent hill where we were covered in some measure

from the wind by the hills. several loose articles blown over board and

lost. our first station was on a bar on Stard. opposite the lower point

of a small Island, which we now called windy Island. the bends of the

river are short and suddon, the points covered with some cottonwood,

larger willow, or broadleafed willow with an abundance of the wild rose

and some small honeysuckle bushes constitute the undergrowth, the

redwood is also found in small quantities. Capt. C walked on shore

today and killed 2 Elk; the party killed several deer and a buffaloe

Cow.-

[Clark, May 21, 1805]

May 21st Tuesday 1805.

a butifull morning, wind from the West, river falling a little, we Set

out at an early hour and proceed on in the usial way by the assistance

of the Coard principally, but little use of the Oares & less with the

poles as the bottoms are muddey, we Se no great bodies of pure Sand the

bars & points are rich mud mixed with fine Sand. I walked on Shore

Stard. Side the river makes a great bend to the South to receve Shell

River, the boint for many miles out in a Northerley direction is a rich

uneaven valley Contain Some Short grass, and Prickley pears without

timber The Countrey on the South Side of the Missouri is high, Soil and

mineral appearance as usial, more Scattering pine & Cedar on the hills,

the wind which blew moderatly all the forepart of the day increassd and

about Dark Shifted to the N W. and Stormed all night, Several loose

articles were blown over board, our lodge & Camp which was on a Sand

bar on the Std. Side & opposite to the lower point of an Island we were

obliged to move under the hills, the dust & Sand blew in clouds. The

bends of the river are Short and points Covered with Cotton wood under

groth wild rose bushes I killed 2 Elk to day Several Deer Killd. & a

Buffalow Cow.

[Lewis, May 22, 1805]

Wednesday May 22cd 1805.

The wind blew so violently this morning that we did not think it

prudent to set out untill it had in some measure abated; this did not

happen untill 10 A.M. when we proceeded principally by the toe lines

the bottoms somewhat wider than usual, the lands fertile or apparently

so tho the short grass and the scantey proportion of it on the hills

would indicate no great fertility. passed Windy Island on Lard. at 1 M.

51/2 miles above passed a large Island in a bend on Stard. side, and

three miles further on the same side passed the entrance of grows Creek

20 yds wide, affords but little water. this creek we named from seeing

a number of the pointed tail praire hen near it's mouth, these are the

fist we have seen in such numbers for some days. I walked on shore this

morning the country is not so broken as yesterday tho still high and

roling or wavy; the hills on Lard. side possess more pine than usual;

some also on the Stard. hills. Salts and other mineral appearances as

usual. the river continues about the same width or from 200 to 250 yds.

wide, fewer sandbars and the courant more gentle and regular; game not

so abundant as below the Muscle Shell river. I killed a deer in the

course of my walk today. Capt. C. also walked out this evening and took

a view of the country from a conspicuous point and found it the same as

has been discribed. we have caught but few fish since we left the

Mandans, they do not bite freely, what we took were the white cat of 2

to 5 lbs. I presume that fish are scarce in this part of the river. We

encamped earlyer this evening than usual in order render the oil of a

bear which we killed. I do not believe that the Black bear common to

the lower part of this river and the Atlantic States, exists in this

quarter; we have neither seen one of them nor their tracks which would

be easily distinguished by it's shortness of tallons when compared with

the brown grizly or white bear. I believe that it is the same species

or family of bears which assumes all those colours at different ages

and seasons of the year.

[Clark, May 22, 1805]

May 22nd Wednesday 1805

The wind Continued to blow So violently hard we did not think it

prudent to Set out untill it luled a little, about 10 oClock we Set out

the morning Cold, passed a Small Island in the bend to the Lard Side, &

proceeded on at 5 miles higher passed a Island in a bend to the Stard

Side, and a Creek a Short distance above on the Stard Side 20 yds. w

Capt Lewis walked out before dinner & Killed a Deer, I walked out after

dinner and assended & but a few miles to view the Countrey, which I

found roleing & of a verry rich Stickey Soil produceing but little

vegitation of any kind except the prickley-piar, but little grass &

that verry low. a great deal of Scattering Pine on the Lard Side & Some

fur on the Stard. Sd. The mineral productions as described in the

proceeding days, game not So abundant as below, the river Continue

about the Same width, fewer Sand bars & current more regular, river

falls about an inch a day We camped on the Stard. Side, earlier than we

intend on account of Saveing the oil of a bear which the party killed

late this afternoon.

Maney of the Creeks which appear to have no water near ther mouths have

Streams of running water higher up which rise & waste in the Sand or

gravel. the water of those Creeks are So much impregnated with the Salt

Substance that it cannot be Drank with pleasure.

[Lewis, May 23, 1805]

Thursday May 23rd 1805.

Set out early this morning, the frost was severe last night, the ice

appeared along the edge of the water, water also freized on the oars.

at the distance of one mile passed the entrance of a creek 15 yds. wide

on Stard. side, this we call Teapot Creek, it affords no water at it's

mouth but has runing water at some small distance above, this I beleive

to be the case with many of those creekes which we have passed since we

entered this hilley country, the water is absorbed by the earth near

the river and of course appear dry; they afford but little water at any

rate, and that is so strongly impregnated with these salts that it is

unfit for uce; all the wild anamals appear fond of this water; I have

tryed it by way of experiment & find it moderately pergative, but

painfull to the intestens in it's opperation. this creek runs directly

towards some low mountains which lye N. W. of it and appear to be about

30 mes. distant, perhaps it heads in them. This range of mountains

appear to be about 70 miles long runing from E to W. having their

Eastern extremity about 30 mes. distant in a northwardly direction from

pot Island.--also passed two small creeks on Lard. and two others on

Stard. all inconsiderable and dry at their entrances. just above the

entrance of Teapot Creek on the stard. there is a large assemblage of

the burrows of the Burrowing Squirrel they generally seelect a south or

a south Easterly exposure for their residence, and never visit the

brooks or river for water; I am astonished how this anamal exists as it

dose without water, particularly in a country like this where there is

scarcely any rain during Yi of the year and more rarely any due; yet we

have sometimes found their villages at the distance of five or six

miles from any water, and they are never found out of the limits of the

ground which their burrows occupy; in the Autumn when the hard frosts

commence they close their burrows and do not venture out again untill

spring, indeed some of them appear to be yet in winter quarters. passed

3 Islands the two first covered with tall cottonwood timber and the

last with willows only. river more rappid, & the country much the same

as yesterday. some spruce pine of small size appears among the pitch

pine, and reather more rock than usual on the face of the hills. The

musquetoes troublesome this evening, a circumstance I did not expect

from the temperature of the morning. The Gees begin to lose the

feathers of their wings and are unable to fly. Capt Clark walked on

shore and killed 4 deer and an Elk. We killed a large fat brown bear

which took the water after being wounded and was carried under some

driftwood where he sunk and we were unable to get him. Saw but few

buffaloe today, but a great number of Elk, deer, some antelopes and 5

bear. The wild rose which is now in blume are very abundant, they

appear to differ but little from those common to the Atlantic States,

the leaves of the bushes and the bush itself appear to be of somewhat

smaller size.

[Clark, May 23, 1805]

May 23rd Thursday 1805

a Severe frost last night, the Thrmotr. Stood at the freesing point

this morning i e 32 a 0. wind S W. the water freeses on the oars. Ice

on the edge of the river we Set out at an early hour and passed the

mouth a Creek at 1 mile on the Stard. Side which heads in a mountain N

W of its mouth 30 or _____ miles, the Countrey on each Side is as

passed yesterday passed 2 Small Creeks on the Stard & 2 on the Lard.

Side to day. a mountain which appears to be 60 or 70 miles long bearing

E. & W is about 25 miles distant from this river on the Stard Side

Notherley of Pot Island I walked on Shore and killed 4 deer & an Elk, &

a beaver in the evening we killed a large fat Bear, which we

unfortunately lost in the river, after being Shot took the water & was

Carried under a drift passed in course of this day three Islands, two

of them Covered with tall timber & a 3rd with willows

The after part of this day was worm & the Misquitors troublesome. Saw

but five Buffalow a number of Elk & Deer & 5 bear & 2 Antilopes to day.

the river beginning to rise, and Current more rapid than yesterday, in

maney places I saw Spruces on the hills Sides Stard. this evening.

[Lewis, May 24, 1805]

Friday May 24th 1805.

The water standing in the vessels freized during the night 1/8 of an

inch thick, ice also appears along the verge of the river. the folage

of some of the cottonwood trees have been entirely distroyed by the

frost and are again puting forth other buds. the high country in which

we are at present and have been passing for some days I take to be a

continuation of what the Indians as well as the French Engages call the

Black hills. This tract of country so called consists of a collection

of high broken and irregular hills and short chain of mountains

sometimes 120 miles in width and again becomeing much narrower, but

always much higher than the country on either side; they commence about

the head of the Kanzas river and to the West of that river near the

Arkansas, from whence they take their course a little to the W. of N.

W. approaching the rockey Mountains obliquely, passing the river platte

above the forks and intercepting the Yellowstone river near the big

bend and passing the Missouri at this place and probably continuing to

swell the country as far North as the Saskashawan river tho they are

lower here than they are discribed to the Sth. and may therefore

probably terminate before they reach the Suskashawan. the black hills

in their course nothwardly appear to approach more nearly to the Rocky

Mountains.