[The Luneta.] Three nights in each week they have music in the plaza,

in front of the governor's palace, by the bands of four different

regiments, who collect there after the evening parade. Most of the

better class resort here, for the pleasure of enjoying it. We went

thither to see the people as well as to hear the music. This is the

great resort of the haut ton, who usually have their carriages in

waiting, and promenade in groups backwards and forwards during the

time the music is playing. This is by far the best opportunity that

one can have for viewing the society of Manila, which seems as easy

and unrestrained as the peculiar gravity and ceremonious mode of

intercourse among the old Spaniards can admit. Before the present

governor took office, it had been the custom to allow the bands to

play on the Prado every fine evening, when all the inhabitants could

enjoy it until a late hour; but he has interdicted this practice,

and of course given much dissatisfaction; he is said to have done

this in a fit of ill temper, and although importuned to restore this

amusement to the common people, he pertinaciously refuses.

The bands of the regiments are under the direction of Frenchmen and

Spaniards: the musicians are all natives, and play with a correct ear.

Our afternoons were spent in drives on the Prado, where all the

fashion and rank of Manila are to be met, and where it is exceedingly

agreeable to partake of the fresh and pure air after a heated day in

the city. The extreme end of the Prado lies along the shore of the bay

of Manila, having the roadstead and ships on one side, and the city

proper with its fortifications and moats on the other. This drive

usually lasts for an hour, and all sorts of vehicles are shown off,

from the governor's coach and six, surrounded by his lancers, to the

sorry chaise and limping nag. The carriage most used is a four-wheeled

biloche, with a gig top, quite low, and drawn by two horses, on one

of which is a postilion; these vehicles are exceedingly comfortable

for two persons. The horses are small, but spirited, and are said

to be able to undergo great fatigue, although their appearance

does not promise it. This drive is enlivened by the music of the

different regiments, who are at this time to be seen manoeuvering on

the Prado. The soldiers have a very neat and clean appearance; great

attention is paid to them, and the whole are well appointed. The force

stationed in Manila is six thousand, and the army in the Philippines

amounts to twenty thousand men. The officers are all Spaniards,

generally the relations and friends of those in the administration

of the government. The pay of the soldiers is four dollars a month,

and a ration, which is equal to six cents a day. As troops I was told,

they acquitted themselves well. The Prado is laid out in many avenues,

leading in various directions to the suburbs, and these are planted

with wild almond trees, which afford a pleasant shade. It is well kept,

and creditable to the city.

In passing the crowds of carriages very little display of female

beauty is observed, and although well-dressed above, one cannot but

revert to their wearing no stockings beneath.

On the Prado is a small theatre, but so inferior that the building

scarce deserves the name: the acting was equally bad. This amusement

meets with little encouragement in Manila and, I was told, was

discountenanced by the Governor.

[A tertulia.] I had the pleasure during our stay of attending a

tertulia in the city. The company was not a large one, comprising

some thirty or forty ladies and about sixty gentlemen. It resembled

those of the mother country. Dancing was introduced at an early hour,

and continued till a few minutes before eleven o'clock, at which

time the gates of the city are always shut. It was amusing to see

the sudden breaking up of the party, most of the guests residing out

of the city. The calling for carriages, shawls, hats, etc., produced

for a few minutes great confusion, every one being desirous of getting

off at the earliest moment possible, for fear of being too late. This

regulation, by which the gates are closed at so early an hour, does

not appear necessary, and only serves to interrupt the communication

between the foreign and Spanish society as the former is obliged, as

before observed, to live outside of the city proper. This want of free

intercourse is to be regretted, as it prevents that kind of friendship

by which many of their jealousies and prejudices might be removed.

The society at this tertulia was easy, and so far as the enjoyment

of dancing went, pleasant; but there was no conversation. The

refreshments consisted of a few dulces, lemonade, and strong drinks

in an anteroom. The house appeared very spacious and well adapted for

entertainments, but only one of the rooms was well lighted. From the

novelty of the scene, and the attentions of the gentleman of the house,

we passed a pleasant evening.

The natives and mestizos attracted much of my attention at

Manila. Their dress is peculiar: over a pair of striped trousers

of various colors, the men usually wear a fine grass-cloth shirt,

a large straw hat, and around the head or neck a many colored silk

handkerchief. They often wear slippers as well as shoes. The Chinese

dress, as they have done for centuries, in loose white shirts and

trousers. One peculiarity of the common men is their passion for

cock-fighting; and they carry these fowls wherever they go, after a

peculiar fashion under their arm.

[Cock-figghting.] Cock-fighting is licensed by the government, and

great care is taken in the breeding of game fowls, which are very large

and heavy birds. They are armed with a curved double-edged gaff. The

exhibitions are usually crowded with half-breeds or mestizos, who are

generally more addicted to gambling than either the higher or lower

classes of Spaniards. It would not be an unapt designation to call

the middling class cock-fighters, for their whole lives seem to be

taken up with the breeding and fighting of these birds. On the exit

from a cockpit, I was much amused with the mode of giving the return

check, which was done by a stamp on the naked arm, and precludes

the possibility of its transfer to another person. The dress of the

lower order of females is somewhat civilized, yet it bore so strong

a resemblance to that of the Polynesians as to recall the latter

to our recollection. A long piece of colored cotton is wound round

the body, like the pareu, and tucked in at the side: this covers

the nether limbs; and a jacket fitting close to the body is worn,

without a shirt. In some, this jacket is ornamented with work around

the neck; it has no collar, and in many cases no sleeves, and over

this a richly embroidered cape. The feet are covered with slippers,

with wooden soles, which are kept on by the little toe, only four toes

entering the slipper, and the little one being on the outside. The

effect of both costumes is picturesque.

[Ducks.] The market is a never failing place of amusement to a

foreigner, for there a crowd of the common people is always to be seen,

and their mode of conducting business may be observed. The canals

here afford great facilities for bringing vegetables and produce to

market in a fresh state. The vegetables are chiefly brought from the

shores of the Laguna de Bay, through the river Pasig. The meat appeared

inferior, and as in all Spanish places the art of butchering is not

understood. The poultry, however, surpasses that of any other place

I have seen, particularly in ducks, the breeding of which is pursued

to a great extent. Establishments for breeding these birds are here

carried on in a systematic manner, and are a great curiosity. They

consist of many small enclosures, each about twenty feet by forty or

fifty, made of bamboo, which are placed on the bank of the river,

and partly covered with water. In one corner of the enclosure is a

small house, where the eggs are hatched by artificial heat, produced

by rice-chaff in a state of of fermentation. It is not uncommon to see

six or eight hundred ducklings all of the same age. There are several

hundreds of these enclosures, and the number of ducks of all ages

may be computed at millions. The manner in which they are schooled

to take exercise, and to go in and out of the water, and to return

to their house, almost exceeds belief. The keepers or tenders are of

the Tagalog tribe, who live near the enclosures, and have them at all

times under their eye. The old birds are not suffered to approach

the young, and all of one age are kept together. They are fed upon

rice and a small species of shell-fish that is found in the river

and is peculiar to it. From the extent of these establishments we

inferred that ducks were the favorite article of food at Manila, and

the consumption of them must be immense. The markets are well supplied

with chickens, pigeons, young partridges, which are brought in alive,

and turkeys. Among strange articles that we saw for sale, were cakes

of coagulated blood. The markets are well stocked with a variety of

fish, taken both in the Laguna and bay of Manila, affording a supply

of both the fresh and salt water species, and many smaller kinds that

are dried and smoked. Vegetables are in great plenty, and consist

of pumpkins, lettuce, onions, radishes, very long squashes, etc.;

of fruits, they have melons, chicos, durians, marbolas, and oranges.

[Fish.] Fish are caught in weirs, by the hook, or in seines. The former

are constructed of bamboo stakes, in the shallow water of the lake,

at the point where it flows through the Pasig river. In the bay,

and at the mouth of the river, the fish are taken in nets, suspended

by the four corners from hoops attached to a crane, by which they are

lowered into the water. The fishing-boats are little better than rafts,

and are called sarabaos.

The usual passage-boat is termed banca, and is made of a single

trunk. These are very much used by the inhabitants. They have a

sort of awning to protect the passenger from the rays of the sun;

and being light are easily rowed about, although they are exceedingly

uncomfortable to sit in, from the lowness of the seats, and liable to

overset, if the weight is not placed near the bottom. The outrigger

was very often dispensed with, owing to the impediment it offered to

the navigation of their canals; these canals offer great facilities

for the transportation of burdens; the banks of almost all of them

are faced with granite. Where the streets cross them, there are

substantial stone bridges, which are generally of no more than one

arch, so as not to impede the navigation. The barges used for the

transportation of produce resemble our canal-boats, and have sliding

roofs to protect them from the rain.

Water, for the supply of vessels, is brought off in large earthen

jars. It is obtained from the river, and if care is not taken, the

water will be impure; it ought to be filled beyond the city. Our

supply was obtained five or six miles up the river, by a lighter,

in which were placed a number of water-casks. It proved excellent.

The trade of Manila extends to all parts of the world.

There are many facilities for the transaction of business, as far as

the shipment of articles is concerned; but great difficulties attend

the settling of disputed accounts, collecting debts, etc., in the

way of which the laws passed in 1834 have thrown many obstacles. All

commercial business of this kind goes before, first, the Junta

de Comercio, and then an appeal to the Tribunal de Comercio. This

appeal, however, is merely nominal; for the same judges preside in

each, and they are said to be susceptible of influences that render

an appeal to them by honest men at all times hazardous. The opinion

of those who have had the misfortune to be obliged to recur to these

tribunals is, that it is better to suffer wrong than encounter both

the expense and vexation of a resort to them for justice. In the

first of these courts the decision is long delayed, fees exacted,

and other expenses incurred; and when judgment is at length given,

it excites one party or the other to appeal: other expenses accrue

in consequence, and the advocates and judges grow rich while both the

litigants suffer. I understood that these tribunals were intended to

simplify business, lessen the time of suits, and promote justice; but

these results have not been obtained, and many believe that they have

had the contrary effect, and have opened the road to further abuses.

[Environs.] The country around Manila, though no more than an extended

plain for some miles, is one of great interest and beauty, and affords

many agreeable rides on the roads to Santa Ana and Mariquina. Most of

the country-seats are situated on the Pasig river; they may indeed

be called palaces, from their extent and appearance. They are built

upon a grand scale, and after the Italian style, with terraces,

supported by strong abutments, decked with vases of plants. The

grounds are ornamented with the luxuriant, lofty, and graceful trees

of the tropics; these are tolerably well kept. Here and there fine

large stone churches, with their towers and steeples, are to be seen,

the whole giving the impression of a wealthy nobility, and a happy

and flourishing peasantry.

[The cemetery.] In one of our rides we made a visit to the Campo Santo

or cemetery, about four miles from Manila. It is small, but has many

handsome trees about it; among them was an Agati, full of large white

flowers, showing most conspicuously. The whole place is as unlike a

depository of the dead as it well can be. Its form is circular, having

a small chapel, in the form of a rotunda, directly opposite the gate,

or entrance. The walls are about twenty feet high, with three tiers of

niches, in which the bodies are enclosed with quicklime. Here they are

allowed to remain for three years, or until such time as the niches

may be required for further use. Niches may be purchased, however,

and permanently closed up; but in the whole cemetery there were but

five thus secured. This would seem to indicate an indifference on the

part of the living, for their departed relatives or friends; at least

such was my impression at the time. The center of the enclosure is laid

out as a flower-garden and shrubbery, and all the buildings are washed

a deep buff-color, with white cornices; these colors, when contrasted

with the green foliage, give an effect that is not unpleasing. In

the chapel are two tombs, the one for the bishop, and the other for

the governor. The former, I believe, is occupied, and will continue

to be so, until another shall follow him; but the latter is empty,

for, since the erection of the cemetery, none of the governors have

died. In the rear of the chapel is another small cemetery, called Los

Angeles; and, further behind, the Osero. The former is similar to the

one in front, but smaller, and appropriated exclusively to children;

the latter is an open space, where the bones of all those who have

been removed from the niches, after three years, are east out, and

now lie in a confused heap, with portions of flesh and hair adhering

to them. No person is allowed to be received here for interment,

until the fees are first paid to the priest, however respectable the

parties may be; and all those who pay the fees, and are of the true

faith, can be interred. I was told of a corpse of a very respectable

person being refused admittance, for the want of the priest's pass,

to show that the claim had been satisfied, and the coffin stopped

in the road until it was obtained. We ourselves witnessed a similar

refusal. A servant entered with a dead child; borne on a tray, which

he presented to the sacristan to have interred, the latter asked him

for the pass, which not being produced, he was dismissed, nor was he

suffered to leave his burden until this requisite could be procured

from the priest, who lived opposite. The price of interment was three

dollars, but whether this included the purchase of the niche, or its

rent for the three years only, I did not learn.

The churches of Manila can boast of several fine-toned bells, which

are placed in large belfries or towers. There was one of these towers

near the Messrs. Sturges', where we stayed; and the manner in which

the bell was used, when swung around by the force of two or three men,

attracted our attention; for the ringers occasionally practised feats

of agility by passing over with the bell, and landing on the coping on

the opposite side. The tower being open, we could see the manoeuver

from the windows, and, as strangers, went there to look on. One day,

whilst at dinner, they began to ring, and as many of the officers

had not witnessed the fact, they sought the windows. This excited

the vanity of those in the belfry, who redoubled their exertions,

and performed the feat successfully many times, although in some

instances they narrowly escaped accident, by landing just within

the outside coping. This brought us all to the window, and the next

turn, more force having been given to the bell, the individual who

attempted the feat was thrown headlong beyond the tower, and dashed

to pieces on the pavement beneath. Although shocked at the accident,

I felt still more so when, after a few minutes, the bell was again

heard making its usual sound, as if nothing had occurred to interrupt

the course of its hourly peals.

[Monasteries.] In company with Dr. Tolben, I visited one of the

convents where he attended on some of the monks who were sick; he

seemed well acquainted with them all. I was much struck with the extent

of the building, which was four stories high, with spacious corridors

and galleries, the walls of which were furnished with pictures

representing the martyrdom of the Dominican friars in Japan. These were

about seventy in number, in the Chinese style of art, and evidently

painted by some one of that nation, calling himself an artist. From

appearances, however, I should think they were composed by the priests,

who have not a little taxed their invention to find out the different

modes in which a man can be put to death. Many evidently, if not all,

had been invented for the pictures. So perplexed had they apparently

been, that in one of the last it was observed that the executioner

held his victim at arms' length by the heels, and was about to let him

drop headforemost into a well. From the galleries we passed into the

library, and thence into many of the rooms, and finally we mounted to

the top of the monastery, which affords a beautiful view of the bay,

city, and suburbs. There I was presented to three of the friars,

who were pleasant and jolly-looking men. Upon the roof was a kind

of observatory, or look-out, simply furnished with billiard-tables

and shuffleboards, while the implements for various other games lay

about on small tables, with telescopes on stands, and comfortable

arm-chairs. It was a place where the friars put aside their religious

and austere character or appearance, and sought amusement. It was

a delightful spot, so far as coolness and the freshness of the sea

air were concerned, and its aspect gave me an insight behind the

curtain of these establishments that very soon disclosed many things

I was ignorant of before. All the friars were of a rotund form,

and many of them bore the marks of good living in their full, red,

and bloated faces. It seems to be generally understood at Manila,

that they live upon the fat of the land. We visited several of the

rooms, and were warmly greeted by the padres, one of whom presented

me with a meteorological table for the previous year.

The revenues of all these religious establishments are considerable;

the one I visited belonged to the Dominicans, and was very rich. Their

revenues are principally derived from lands owned by them, and the

tithes from the different districts which they have under their charge,

to which are added many alms and gifts. On inquiry, I found their

general character was by no means thought well of, and they had of

late years lost much of the influence that they possessed before the

revolution in the mother country.

Among the inhabitants we saw here, was a native boy of the Igorots,

or mountain tribe. He is said to be a true Negrito. (Another confusion

of facts.--C.)

[Mountaineers.] The Spaniards, as has been stated, have never been

able to subdue this tribe, who are said to be still as wild as on

their first landing; they are confined almost altogether to the plains

within or near the mountains, and from time to time make inroads in

great force on the outer settlements, carrying off as much plunder

as possible. The burden of this often causes them to be overtaken

by the troops. When overtaken, they fight desperately, and were it

not for the fire-arms of their adversaries, would give them much

trouble. Few are captured on such occasions, and it is exceedingly

difficult to take them alive, unless when very young. These mountains

furnish them with an iron ore almost pure, in manufacturing which

they show much ingenuity. Some of their weapons were presented to

the Expedition by Josiah Moore, Esq. These are probably imitations

of the early Spanish weapons used against them. From all accounts,

the natives are of Malay origin, and allied to those of the other

islands of the extensive archipelago of the Eastern Seas; but the

population of the towns and cities of the island are so mixed,

from the constant intercourse with Chinese, Europeans, and others,

that there is no pure blood among them. When at Manila, we obtained a

grammar of the Tagalog language, which is said to be now rarely heard,

and to have become nearly obsolete. This grammar is believed to be the

only one extant, and was procured from a padre, who presented it to the

Expedition. (Tagalog is here mistaken for a mountaineer's dialect.--C.)

The Pampangans are considered the finest tribe of natives; they are

excessively fond of horse-racing, and bet very considerable sums upon

it; they have the reputation of being an industrious and energetic

set of men.

[Revenue.] The mode of raising revenue by a poll-tax causes great

discontent among all classes, for although light, it is, as it always

has been elsewhere, unpopular. All the Chinese pay a capitation tax

of four dollars. The revenue from various sources is said to amount

to one million six hundred thousand dollars, of which the poll-tax

amounts to more than one-half, the rest being derived from the customs,

tobacco, etc. There is no tax upon land. It was thought at Manila

that a revenue might be derived by indirect taxation, far exceeding

this sum, without being sensibly felt by the inhabitants. This mode

is employed in the eastern islands under the English and Dutch rule,

and it is surprising that the Spaniards also do not adopt it, or some

other method to increase resources that are so much needed. Whenever

the ministry in Spain had to meet a claim, they were a few years

ago in the habit of issuing drafts on this colonial government in

payment. These came at last in such numbers, that latterly they have

been compelled to suspend the payment of them.

The revenue of the colonial government is very little more than will

meet the expenses; and it is believed that, notwithstanding these

unaccepted claims, it received orders to remit the surplus, if any,

to Spain, regardless of honor or good faith.

[Government.] The government of the Philippines is in the hands of a

governor-general, who has the titles of viceroy, commander-in-chief,

sub-delegate, judge of the revenue from the post-office, commander of

the troops, captain-general, and commander of the naval forces. His

duties embrace every thing that relates to the security and defence

of the country. As advisers, he has a council called the Audiencia.

The islands are divided into provinces, each of which has a

military officer with the title of governor, appointed by the

governor-general. They act as chief magistrates, have jurisdiction

over all disputes of minor importance, have the command of the troops

in time of war, and are collectors of the royal revenues, for the

security of which they give bonds, which must be approved of by the

comptroller-general of the treasury. The province of Cavite is alone

exempt from this rule, and the collection of tribute is there confided

to a police magistrate.

Each province is again sub-divided into pueblos, containing a greater

or less number of inhabitants, each of which has again its ruler,

called a gobernadorcillo, who has in like manner other officers under

him to act as police magistrates. The number of the latter are very

great, each of them having his appropriate duties. These consist in the

supervision of the grain fields, coconut groves, betel-nut plantations,

and in the preservation of the general order and peace of the town. So

numerous are these petty officers, that there is scarcely a family of

any consequence, that has not a member who holds some kind of office

under government. This policy, in case of disturbances, at once

unites a large and influential body on the side of the government,

that is maintained at little expense. The gobernadorcillo exercises

the municipal authority, and is especially charged to aid the parish

priest in every thing appertaining to religious observances, etc.

In the towns where the descendants of the Chinese are sufficiently

numerous, they can, by permission of the governor, elect their own

petty governors and officers from among themselves.

In each town there is also a headman (cabeza de barangay), who has

the charge of fifty tributaries, in each of which is included as

many families. This division is called a barangay. This office forms

by far the most important part of the machinery of government in the

Philippine Islands, for these headmen are the attorneys of these small

districts, and become the electors of the gobernadorcillos, and other

civil officers. Only twelve, however, of them or their substitutes,

are allowed to vote in each town.

The office of head-man existed before the conquest of the island,

and the Spaniards showed their wisdom in continuing and adapting it to

their system of police. The office among the natives was hereditary,

but their conquerors made it also elective, and when a vacancy now

occurs through want of heirs, or resignation, it is filled up by

the superintendent of the province, on the recommendation of the

gobernadorcillo and the headman. This is also the case when any new

office is created. The privileges of the headmen are great; themselves,

their wives, and their first-born children, are exempted from paying

tribute to the crown, an exoneration which is owing to their being

collectors of the royal revenues. Their duties consist in maintaining

good order and harmony, in dividing the labor required for the public

benefit equally, adjusting differences, and receiving the taxes.

The gobernadorcillo takes cognizance of all civil cases not exceeding

two taels of gold, or forty-four dollars in silver; all criminal

cases must be sent to the chief of the province. The headmen formerly

served for no more than three years, and if this was done faithfully,

they became and were designated as principals, in virtue of which

rank they received the title of Don.

The election takes place at the court-house of the town; the electors

are the gobernadorcillo whose office is about to expire, and twelve

of the oldest headmen, cabezas de barangay, collectors of tribute

for the gobernadorcillo they must select, by a plurality of votes,

three individuals, who must be able to speak, read, and write the

Spanish language. The voting is done by ballot, in the presence

of the notary (escribano), and the chief of the province, who

presides. The curate may be present, to look after the interest of

the church but for no other purpose. After the votes are taken, they

are sealed and transmitted to the governor-general, who selects one

of the three candidates, and issues a commission. In the more distant

provinces, the chief of the district has the authority to select the

gobernadorcillo, and fill up the commission, a blank form of which,

signed by the governor-general, is left with him for that purpose.

The headmen may be elected petty governors, and still retain their

office, and collect the tribute or taxes; for it is not considered

just, that the important office of chief of Barangay should deprive

the holder of the honor of being elected gobernadorcillo.

The greater part of the Chinese reside in the province of Tondo,

but the tribute is there collected by the alcalde mayor, with an

assistant taken from among the officers of the royal treasury.

The poll-tax on the Chinese amounts to four dollars a head; it was

formerly one-half more. Tax-lists of the Chinese are kept, in which

they are registered and classified; and opposite the name is the

amount at which the individual is assessed.

The Spanish government seems particularly desirous of giving

consequence even to its lowest offices; and in order to secure it to

them, it is directed that the chiefs of provinces, shall treat the

gobernadorcillos with respect, offering them seats when they enter

their houses or other places, and not allowing them to remain standing;

furthermore, the parish curates are required to treat them with

equal respect. So far as concerns the provinces, the government may

be called, notwithstanding the officers, courts. etc., monastic. The

priests rule, and frequently administer punishment, with their own

hands, to either sex, of which an instance will be cited hereafter.

[A country excursion.] As soon as we could procure the necessary

passports, which were obligingly furnished by the governor to "Don

Russel Sturges y quatro Anglo Americanos," our party left Manila

for a short jaunt to the mountains. It was considered as a mark of

great favor on the part of his excellency to grant this indulgence,

particularly as he had a few months prior denied it to a party of

French officers. I was told that he preferred to make it a domestic

concern, by issuing the passport in the name of a resident, in order

that compliance in this case might not give umbrage to the French. It

was generally believed that the cause of the refusal in the former

instance was the imprudent manner in which the French officers went

about taking plans and sketches, at the corners of streets, etc., which

in the minds of an unenlightened and ignorant colonial government, of

course excited suspicion. Nothing can be so ridiculous as this system

of passports; for if one was so disposed, a plan, and the most minute

information of every thing that concerns the defences of places, can

always be obtained at little cost now-a-days; for such is the skill of

engineers, that a plan is easily made of places, merely by a sight of

them. We were not, however, disposed to question the propriety of the

governor's conduct in the former case, and I left abundantly obliged

to him for a permission that would add to our stock of information.

It was deemed at first impossible for the party to divide, as they

had but one passport, and some difficulties were anticipated from

the number being double that stated in the passport. The party

consisted of Messrs. Sturges, Pickering, Eld, Rich, Dana, and

Brackenridge. Mr. Sturges, however, saw no difficulty in dividing the

party after they had passed beyond the precincts of the city, taking

the precaution, at the same time, not to appear together beyond the

number designated on the paper.

On the 14th, they left Manila, and proceeded in carriages to Santa Ana,

on the Pasig, in order to avoid the delay that would ensue if they

followed the windings of the river in a banca, and against the current.

At Santa Ana they found their bancas waiting for them, and

embarked. Here the scene was rendered animated by numerous boats of

all descriptions, from the parao to the small canoe of a single log.

There is a large population that live wholly on the water: for the

padrones of the parao have usually their families with them, which,

from the great variety of ages and sexes, give a very different and

much more bustling appearance to the crowd of boats, than would be the

case if they only contained those who are employed to navigate them. At

times the paraos and bancas, of all sizes, together with the saraboas

and pativas (duck establishments), become jumbled together, and create

a confusion and noise such as is seldom met with in any other country.

[Duck farms.] The pativas are under the care of the original

inhabitants, to whom exclusively the superintendence of the ducklings

seems to be committed. The pens are made of bamboo, and are not

over a foot high. The birds were all in admirable order, and made no

attempt to escape over the low barrier, although so light that it was

thought by some of our gentlemen it would not have sufficed to confine

American ducks, although their wings might have been cut. The mode of

giving them exercise was by causing them to run round in a ring. The

good understanding existing between the keepers and their charge was

striking, particularly when the former were engaged in cleansing the

pens, and assisting the current to carry off the impurities. In the

course of their sail, it was estimated that hundreds of thousands of

ducks of all ages were seen.

The women who were seen were usually engaged in fishing with a hook

and line, and were generally standing in the water, or in canoes. The

saraboas were here also in use. The run of the fish is generally

concentrated by a chevaux-de-frise to guide them towards the nets

and localities where the fishermen place themselves.

At five o'clock they reached the Laguna de Bay, where they took in a

new crew, with mast and sail. This is called twenty-five miles from

Manila by the river; the distance in a bird's flight is not over

twelve. The whole distance is densely peopled, and well cultivated. The

crops consist of indigo, rice, etc., with groves of the betel, palm,

coconut, and quantities of fruit trees.

The shores of the lake are shelving, and afford good situations

for placing fish-weirs, which are here established on an extensive

scale. These weirs are formed of slips of bamboo, and are to be seen

running in every direction to the distance of two or three miles. They

may be said to invest entirely the shores of the lake for several miles

from its outlet, and without a pilot it would be difficult to find the

way through them. At night, when heron and tern were seen roosting on

the top of each slat, these weirs presented rather a curious spectacle.

The Laguna de Bay is said to be about ten leagues in length by three in

width, and trends in a north-northwest and south-southeast direction.

After dark, the bancas separated. Mr. Sturges, with Dr. Pickering

and Mr. Eld, proceeded to visit the mountain of Maijaijai,

while Messrs. Rich, Dana, and Brackenridge, went towards the Taal

Volcano. The latter party took the passport, while the former relied

upon certain letters of introduction for protection, in case of

difficulty.

Mr. Sturges, with his party, directed his course to the east side

of the lake, towards a point called Jalajala, which they reached

about three o'clock in the morning, and stopped for the crew to cook

some rice, etc. At 8 o'clock a.m., they reached Santa Cruz, situated

about half a mile up a small streamlet, called Paxanau. At this place

they found Don Escudero to whom they had a letter of introduction,

and who holds a civil appointment. They were kindly received by this

gentleman and his brown lady, with their interesting family. He at

once ordered horses for them to proceed to the mission of Maijaijai,

and entertained them with a sumptuous breakfast.

They were not prepared to set out before noon, until which time they

strolled about the town of Santa Cruz, the inhabitants of which

are Tagalogs. There are only two old Spaniards in the place. The

province in which Santa Cruz is situated contains about five thousand

inhabitants, of whom eighteen hundred pay tribute.

The people have the character of being orderly, and govern themselves

without the aid of the military. The principal article of culture is

the coconut tree, which is seen in large groves. The trunks of these

were notched, as was supposed, for the purpose of climbing them. From

the spathe a kind of spirit is manufactured, which is fully as strong

as our whiskey.

About noon they left Don Escudero's, and took a road leading to the

southward and eastward, through a luxuriant and beautiful country,

well cultivated, and ornamented with lofty coconut trees, betel

palms, and banana groves. Several beautiful valleys were passed,

with streamlets rushing through them.

Maijaijai is situated about one thousand feet above the Laguna de Bay,

but the rise is so gradual that it was almost imperceptible. The

country has everywhere the appearance of being densely peopled;

but no more than one village was passed between Santa Cruz and the

mission. They had letters to F. Antonio Romana y Aranda, padre of

the mission, who received them kindly, and entertained them most

hospitably. [Climbing Banajao.] When he was told of their intention

to visit the mountain, he said it was impossible with such weather,

pointing to the black clouds that then enveloped its summit; and he

endeavoured to persuade the gentlemen to desist from what appeared

to him a mad attempt; but finding them resolved to make the trial,

he aided in making all the necessary preparations, though he had no

belief in their success.

On the morning of the 27th, after mass, Mr. Eld and Dr. Pickering

set out, but Mr. Sturges preferred to keep the good padre company

until their return. The padre had provided them with guides, horses,

twenty natives, and provisions for three days. He had been himself

on the same laborious journey, some six months before, and knew its

fatigues, although it turned out afterwards that his expedition was

performed in fine weather, and that he had been borne on a litter by

natives the whole way.

The first part of the road was wet and miry, and discouraging

enough. The soil was exceedingly rich, producing tropical plants

in great profusion, in the midst of which were seen the neat bamboo

cottages, with their industrious and cleanly-looking inhabitants. When

they reached the foot of the mountain, they found it was impossible to

ride farther, and were obliged to take to walking, which was, however,

less of a hardship than riding the little rats of horses, covered with

mud and dirt, which were at first deemed useless; but the manner in

which they ascended and maintained themselves on the slippery banks,

surpassed anything they had before witnessed in horseflesh. The first

part of the ascent of the mountain was gradual, but over a miry path,

which was extremely slippery; and had it not been for the sticks stuck

down by the party of the padre in their former ascent, they would have

found it extremely difficult to overcome; to make it more disagreeable,

it rained all the time.

It took about two hours to reach the steep ascent. The last portion

of their route had been through an uninhabited region, with some

openings in the woods, affording pasture-grounds to a few small herds

of buffalo. In three hours they reached the half-way house, by a very

steep and regular ascent. Here the natives insisted upon stopping

to cook their breakfast, as they had not yet partaken of anything

through the day. The natives now endeavored to persuade them it was

impracticable to go any farther, or at least to reach the top of the

mountain and return before night. Our gentlemen lost their patience at

the delay, and after an hour's endurance of it, resolved to set out

alone. Six of the natives followed them, and by half-past three they

reached the summit, where they found it cold and uncomfortable. The

ascent had been difficult, and was principally accomplished by catching

hold of shrubs and the roots of trees. The summit is comparatively

bare, and not more than fifty feet in width. The side opposite to

that by which they mounted was perpendicular, but owing to the thick

fog they could not see the depth to which the precipice descended.

The observations with the barometers were speedily taken, which gave

the height of Banajao as six thousand five hundred feet. The trees

on the summit were twenty or thirty feet high, and a species of

fir was very common. Gaultheria, attached to the trunks of trees,

Rhododendrons, and Polygonums, also abounded. The rocks were so

covered with soil that it was difficult to ascertain their character;

Dr. Pickering is of opinion, however, that they are not volcanic. The

house on the summit afforded them little or no shelter; being a mere

shed, open on all sides, they found it untenantable, and determined

to return as soon as their observations were finished, to the half-way

house, which they reached before dark.

The night was passed uncomfortably, and in the morning they made

an early start down the mountain to reach the native village at its

foot, where they were refreshed with a cup of chocolate, cakes, and

some dulces, according to the custom of the country. At ten o'clock

they reached the mission, where they were received by the padre and

Mr. Sturges. The former was greatly astonished to hear that they

had really been to the summit, and had accomplished in twenty-four

hours what he had deemed a labor of three days. He quickly attended

to their wants, the first among which was dry clothing; and as their

baggage had unfortunately been left at Santa Cruz, the wardrobe of

the rotund padre was placed at their disposal. Although the fit was

rather uncouth on the spare forms of our gentlemen, yet his clothes

served the purpose tolerably well, and were thankfully made use

of. During their absence, Mr. Sturges had been much amused with the

discipline he had witnessed at the hands of the church, which here

seem to be the only visible ruling power. Two young natives had made

complaint to the padre that a certain damsel had entered into vows

or engagements to marry both; she was accordingly brought up before

the padre, Mr. Sturges being present. The padre first lectured her

most seriously upon the enormity of her crime, then inflicted several

blows on the palm of her outstretched hand, again renewing the lecture,

and finally concluding with another whipping. The girl was pretty, and

excited the interest of our friend, who looked on with much desire to

interfere, and save the damsel from the corporal punishment, rendered

more aggravated by the dispassionate and cool manner in which it and

the lecture were administered. In the conversation which ensued, the

padre said he had more cases of the violation of the marriage vow,

and of infidelity, than any other class of crimes.

After a hearty breakfast, or rather dinner, and expressing their

thanks to the padre, they rode back to Santa Cruz, where they arrived

at an early hour, and at nine o'clock in the evening they embarked

in their bancas for Manila.

[Los Baños.] In the morning they found themselves, after a comfortable

night, at Los Baños. Here they took chocolate with the padre, to whom

Mr. Sturges had a letter, who informed them that the other party had

left the place the evening before for Manila.

This party had proceeded to the town of Baia, where they arrived at

daylight on the 15th. Baia is quite a pretty place, and well situated;

the houses are clean and comfortable, and it possessed a venerable

stone church, with towers and bells. On inquiring for the padre,

they found that he was absent, and it was in consequence impossible

for them to procure horses to proceed to the Volcano of Taal. They

therefore concluded to walk to the hot springs at Los Baños, about

five miles distant. Along the road they collected a number of curious

plants. Rice is much cultivated, and fields of it extend to some

distance on each side of the road. Buffaloes were seen feeding and

wallowing in the ditches.

At Los Baños the hot springs are numerous, the water issuing from the

rock over a considerable surface. The quantity of water discharged

by them is large, and the whole is collected and conducted to the

bathing-houses. The temperature of the water at the mouth of the

culvert was 180°.

The old bath-house is a singular-looking place, being built on the

hill-side, in the old Spanish style, with large balconies, that are

enclosed in the manner already described, in speaking of the houses

in Manila. It is beautifully situated, and overlooks the baths and

lake. The baths are of stone, and consist of two large rooms, in

each of which is a niche, through which the hot water passes. This

building is now in ruins, the roof and floors having fallen in.

Los Baños is a small village, but contains a respectable-looking

stone church, and two or three houses of the same material. Here the

party found a difficulty in getting on, for the alcalde could not

speak Spanish, and they were obliged to use an interpreter, in order

to communicate with him. Notwithstanding this, he is a magistrate,

whose duty it is to administer laws written in that language. Finding

they could not succeed even here in procuring guides or horses,

they determined to remain and explore Mount Maquiling, the height

of which is three thousand four hundred and fifty feet, and in the

meantime to send for their bancas.

The next day they set out on their journey to that mountain, and the

first part of their path lay over a gentle ascent, through cultivated

grounds. Next succeeded an almost perpendicular hill, bare of trees,

and overgrown with a tall grass, which it was difficult to pass

through.

Such had been the time taken up, that the party found it impossible

to reach the summit and return before dark. They therefore began

to collect specimens; and after having obtained a full load, they

returned late in the afternoon to Los Baños.

The mountain is composed of trachytic rocks and tufa, which are

occasionally seen to break through the rich and deep soil, showing

themselves here and there, in the deep valleys which former volcanic

action has created, and which have destroyed the regular outline

of the cone-shaped mountain. The tufa is generally found to form

the gently-sloping plains that surround these mountains, and has in

all probability been ejected from them. Small craters, of some two

hundred feet in height, are scattered over the plains. The tufa is

likewise exposed to view on the shores of the lake; but elsewhere,

except on a few bare hills, it is entirely covered with the dense

and luxuriant foliage. The tufa is generally of a soft character,

crumbling in the fingers, and in it are found coarse and fine fragments

of scoria, pumice, etc. The layers are from a few inches to five feet

in thickness.

In the country around Los Baños, there are several volcanic hills, and

on the sides of Mount Maquiling are appearances of parasitic cones,

similar to those observed at the Hawaiian Islands; but time and the

foliage have so disguised them, that it is difficult to determine

exactly their true character.

I regretted exceedingly that the party that set out for the Lake of

Taal was not able to reach it, as, from the accounts I had, it must

be one of the most interesting portions of the country. It lies nearly

south-west from Manila, and occupies an area of about one hundred and

twenty square miles. The Volcano of Taal is situated on an island

near the center of it, and is now in action. The cone which rises

from its center is remarkably regular, and consists for the most part

of cinders and scoria. It has been found to be nine hundred feet in

elevation above the lake. The crater has a diameter of two miles,

and its depth is equal to the elevation; the walls of the crater

are nearly perpendicular, so much so that the descent cannot be

made without the assistance of ropes. At the bottom there are two

small cones. Much steam issues from the many fissures, accompanied

by sulphurous acid gas. The waters of the lake are impregnated with

sulphur, and there are said to be also large beds of sulphur. In

the opinion of those who have visited this spot, the whole lake once

formed an immense crater; and this does not appear very improbable,

if we are to credit the accounts we received of the many craters

on this island that are now filled with water; for instance, in the

neighborhood of San Pablo there are said to be eight or nine.

[The hot springs.] The hot springs of Los Baños are numerous, and in

their vicinity large quantities of steam are seen to issue from the

shore of the lake. There are about a dozen which give out a copious

supply of water. The principal one has been enclosed, and made

to flow through a stone aqueduct, which discharges a considerable

stream. The temperature of the water as it leaves the aqueduct is

178°. The villagers use it for cooking and washing; the signs of the

former employment are evident enough from the quantities of feathers

from the poultry that have been scalded and plucked preparatory to

cooking. The baths are formed by a small circular building six feet

in diameter, erected over the point of discharge for the purpose of

securing a steam-bath; the temperature of these is 160° and 140°. A

change of temperature is said to have occurred in the latter.

The rocks in the vicinity are all tufa, and some of the springs break

out close to the cold water of the lake. Near the aqueduct, a stone

wall surrounds one of the principal outlets. Two-thirds of the area

thus enclosed is occupied by a pond of warm water, and the other third

is divided into two stone reservoirs, built for baths. These baths

had at one time a high reputation, and were a very fashionable resort

for the society of Manila; but their celebrity gradually diminished,

and the whole premises have gone out of repair, and are fast falling

to ruin.

The water of the springs has no perceptible taste, and only a very

faint smell of sulphur is perceived. No gas escapes from it, but a

white incrustation covers the stones over which the water flows.

Some of these waters were obtained, and since our return were put into

the hands of Dr. C. T. Jackson, of Boston, who gives the following

analysis:

Specific gravity, 1.0043; thermometer 60°; barometer 30.05 in.

A quantity of the water, equal in bulk to three thousand grains of

distilled water, on evaporation gave--

Dry salts, 5.95 grains.

A quantity of the water, equal in bulk to one thousand grains of

distilled water, was operated on for each of the following ingredients:

Chlorine 0.66

Carbonic acid 0.16

Sulphuric acid 0.03

Soda and sodium 0.97

Magnesia 0.09

Lime 0.07

Potash traces

Organic matter ,,

Manganese ,,

----

1.98

[Mount Maquiling.] On Mount Maquiling, wild buffaloes, hogs, a small

species of deer, and monkeys are found. Birds are also very numerous,

and among them is the horn-bill; the noise made by this bird resembles

a loud barking; report speaks of them as an excellent bird for the

table. Our gentlemen reached their lodging-place as the night closed

in, and the next day again embarked for Manila, regretting that

time would not permit them to make another visit to so interesting

a field of research. They found the lake so rough that they were

compelled to return, and remain until eight o'clock. This, however,

gave our botanists another opportunity of making collections, among

which were beautiful specimens of Volkameria splendens, with elegant

scarlet flowers, and a Brugmansia, which expanded its beautiful

silvery flowers after sunset. On the shores a number of birds were

feeding, including pelicans, with their huge bills, the diver, with

its long arched neck, herons, gulls, eagles, and snow-white cranes,

with ducks and other small aquatic flocks. Towards night these were

joined by large bats, that were seen winging their way towards the

plantations of fruit. These, with quantities of insects, gave a vivid

idea of the wonderful myriads of animated things that are constantly

brought into being in these tropical and luxuriant climates.

Sailing all night in a rough sea, they were much incommoded by the

water, which was shipped into the banca and kept them constantly baling

out: they reached the Pasig river at daylight, and again passed the

duck establishments, and the numerous boats and bancas on their way

to the markets of Manila.

Both the parties reached the consul's the same day, highly pleased with

their respective jaunts. To the kindness of Messrs. Sturges and Moore,

we are mainly indebted for the advantages and pleasures derived from

the excursions.

The instruments were now embarked, and preparations made for going

to sea. Our stay at Manila had added much to our collections; we

obtained many new specimens, and the officers and naturalists had

been constantly and profitably occupied in their various duties.

We went on board on January 20, and were accompanied to the vessel

by Messrs. Sturges and Moore, with several other residents of Manila.

We had, through the kindness of Captain Salomon, procured a native

pilot for the Sulu Sea, who was to act as interpreter.

On the morning of the 21st, we took leave of our friends, and got

under way. The same day, and before we had cleared the bay, we spoke

the American ship Angier, which had performed the voyage from the

United States in one hundred and twenty-four days, and furnished us

with late and interesting news. We then, with a strong northerly wind,

made all sail to the south for the Straits of Mindoro.

Sulu in 1842

On the evening of January 21, the Vincennes, with the tender in

company, left Manila bay. I then sent for Mr. Knox, who commanded

the latter, and gave him directions to keep closely in company with

the Vincennes, and at the same time pointed out to him places of

rendezvous where the vessels might again meet in case any unavoidable

circumstance caused their separation. I was more particular in giving

him instructions to avoid losing sight of the Vincennes, as I was aware

that my proposed surveys might be impeded or frustrated altogether,

were I deprived of the assistance of the vessel under his command.

[Mindoro.] On the 22nd, we passed the entrance of the Straits of San

Bernardino. It would have been my most direct route to follow these

straits until I had passed Mindoro, and it is I am satisfied the safest

course, unless the winds are fair, for the direct passage. My object,

however, was to examine the ground for the benefit of others, and the

Apo Shoal, which lies about mid-channel between Palawan and Mindoro,

claimed my first attention. The tender was despatched to survey it,

while I proceeded in the Vincennes to examine the more immediate

entrance to the Sulu Sea, off the southwest end of Mindoro.

Calavite Peak is the north point of Mindoro, and our observations

made it two thousand feet high. This peak is of the shape of a

dome, and appears remarkably regular when seen from its western

side. On approaching Mindoro, we, as is usual, under high islands,

lost the steady breeze, and the wind became light for the rest of

the day. Mindoro is a beautiful island, and is evidently volcanic;

it appears as if thrown up in confused masses; it is not much settled,

as the more southern islands are preferred to it as a residence.

On the 23rd, we ascertained the elevation of the highest peak of

the island by triangulation to be three thousand one hundred and

twenty-six fet. The easternmost island of the Palawan group, Busuanga,

was at the time just in sight from the deck, to the southwest.

It had been my intention to anchor at Ambolou Island; but the wind

died away before we reached it, and I determined to stand off and on

all night.

On the 24th, I began to experience the truth of what Captain Halcon had

asserted, namely, that the existing charts were entirely worthless,

and I also found that my native pilot was of no more value than

they were, he had evidently passed the place before; but whether

the size of the vessel, so much greater than any he had sailed in,

confused him, or whether it was from his inability to understand and

to make himself understood by us, he was of no use whatever, and we

had the misfortune of running into shoal water, barely escaping the

bottom. These dangers were usually quickly passed, and we soon found

ourselves again floating in thirty or forty fathoms water.

We continued beating to windward, in hopes of being joined by the

Flying-fish, and I resolved to finish the survey towards the island

of Semarara. We found every thing in a different position from that

assigned it by any of the charts with which we were furnished. On

this subject, however, I shall not dwell, but refer those who desire

particular information to the charts and Hydrographical Memoir.

Towards evening, I again ran down to the southwest point of the island

of Mindoro, and sent a letter on shore to the pueblo, with directions

to have it put on board the tender, when she should arrive. We then

began to beat round Semarara, in order to pass over towards Panay.

The southern part of Mindoro is much higher than the northern

but appears to be equally rough. It is, however, susceptible of

cultivation, and there are many villages along its shores.

Semarara is moderately high, and about fifteen miles in circumference;

it is inhabited, and like Mindoro much wooded. According to the native

pilot, its shores are free from shoals. It was not until the next day

that we succeeded in reaching Panay. I determined to pass the night

off Point Potol, the north end of Panay, as I believed the sea in its

neighborhood to be free of shoals, and wished to resume our running

survey early in the morning.

[Panay.] At daylight on the 27th we continued the survey down the

coast of Panay, and succeeded in correcting many errors in the

existing charts (both English and Spanish). The channel along this

side is from twelve to twenty miles wide, and suitable for beating

in; little current is believed to exist; and the tides, as far as

our observations went, seem to be regular and of little strength.

The island of Panay is high and broken, particularly on the south

end; its shores are thickly settled and well cultivated. Indigo and

sugar-cane claim much of the attention of the inhabitants. The natives

are the principal cultivators. They pay to government a capitation tax

of seven reals. Its population is estimated at three hundred thousand,

which I think is rather short of the actual number.

On all the hills there are telegraphs of rude construction, to give

information of the approach of piratical prahus from Sulu, which

formerly were in the habit of making attacks upon the defenceless

inhabitants and carrying them off into slavery. Of late years they have

ceased these depredations, for the Spaniards have resorted to a new

mode of warfare. Instead of pursuing and punishing the offenders, they

now intercept all their supplies, both of necessaries and luxuries;

and the fear of this has had the effect to deter pirates from their

usual attacks.

We remained off San Pedro for the night, in hopes of falling in with

the Flying-fish in the morning.

On the morning of the 28th, the Flying-fish was discovered plainly in

sight. I immediately stood for her, fired a gun and made signal. At

seven o'clock, another gun was fired, but the vessel still stood off,

and was seen to make sail to the westward without paying any regard

whatever to either, and being favored by a breeze while the Vincennes

was becalmed, she stole off and was soon out of sight. [270]

After breakfast we opened the bay of Antique, on which is situated the

town of San José. As this bay apparently offered anchorage for vessels

bound up this coast, I determined to survey it; and for this purpose

the boats were hoisted out and prepared for surveying. Lieutenant

Budd was despatched to visit the pueblo called San José.

On reaching the bay, the boats were sent to different points of it,

and when they were in station, the ship fired guns to furnish bases

by the sound, and angles were simultaneously measured. The boats made

soundings on their return to the ship, and thus completed this duty,

so that in an hour or two afterwards the bay was correctly represented

on paper. It offers no more than a temporary anchorage for vessels,

and unless the shore is closely approached, the water is almost too

deep for the purpose.

[San José.] At San José a Spanish governor resides, who presides over

the two pueblos of San Pedro and San José, and does the duty also

of alcalde. Lieutenant Budd did not see him, as he was absent, but

his lady did the honors. Lieutenant Budd represented the pueblo as

cleanly and orderly. About fifteen soldiers were seen, who compose

the governor's guard, and more were said to be stationed at San

Pedro. A small fort of eight guns commands the roadstead. The beach

was found to be of fine volcanic sand, composed chiefly of oxide of

iron, and comminuted shells; there is here also a narrow shore reef

of coral. The plain bordering the sea is covered with a dense growth

of coconut trees. In the fine season the bay is secure, but we were

informed that in westerly and southwesterly gales heavy seas set in,

and vessels are not able to lie at anchor. Several small vessels were

lying in a small river about one and a half miles to the southward of

the point on which the fort is situated. The entrance to this river

is very narrow and tortuous.

Panay is one of the largest islands of the group. We had an opportunity

of measuring the height of some of its western peaks or highlands,

none of which exceed three thousand feet. The interior and eastern side

have many lofty summits, which are said to reach an altitude of seven

thousand five hundred feet; but these, as we passed, were enveloped

in clouds, or shut out from view by the nearer highlands. The general

features of the island are like those of Luzon and Mindoro. The few

specimens we obtained of its rocks consisted of the different varieties

of talcose formation, with quartz and jasper. The specimens were of

no great value, as they were much worn by lying on the beach.

The higher land was bare of trees, and had it not been for the

numerous fertile valleys lying between the sharp and rugged spurs,

it would have had a sterile appearance.

The bay of Antique is in latitude 10° 40' N., longitude 121° 59'

30'' E.

It was my intention to remain for two or three days at a convenient

anchorage to enable us to make short excursions into the interior;

but the vexatious mismanagement of the tender now made it incumbent

that I should make every possible use of the time to complete the

operations connected with the hydrography of this sea; for I perceived

that the duties which I intended should be performed by her, would now

devolve upon the boats, and necessarily expose both officers and men to

the hazard of contracting disease. I regretted giving up this design,

not only on my own account and that of the Expedition, but because of

the gratification it would have afforded personally to the naturalists.

The town of San José has about thirty bamboo houses, some of which

are filled in with clay or mortar, and plastered over, both inside

and out. Few of them are more than a single story in height. That of

the governor is of the same material, and overtops the rest; it is

whitewashed, and has a neat and cleanly appearance. In the vicinity of

the town are several beautiful valleys, which run into the mountains

from the plain that borders the bay. The landing is on a bamboo bridge,

which has been erected over an extensive mud-flat, that is exposed at

low water, and prevents any nearer approach of boats. This bridge is

about seven hundred feet in length; and a novel plan has been adopted

to preserve it from being carried away. The stems of bamboo not

being sufficiently large and heavy to maintain the superstructure in

the soft mud, a scaffold is constructed just under the top, which is

loaded with blocks of large stone, and the outer piles are secured to

anchors or rocks, with grass rope. The roadway or top is ten feet wide,

covered with split bamboo, woven together, and has rails on each side,

to assist the passenger. This is absolutely necessary for safety;

and even with this aid, one unaccustomed to it must be possessed

of no little bodily strength to pass over this smooth, slippery,

and springy bridge, without accident.

Two pirogues were at anchor in the bay, and on the shore was the

frame of a vessel which had evidently been a long while on the stocks,

for the weeds and bushes near the keel were six or eight feet high,

and a portion of the timbers were decayed. Carts and sleds drawn by

buffaloes were in use, and everything gave it the appearance of a

thriving village. Although I have mentioned the presence of soldiers,

it was observed on landing that no guard was stationed about or even at

the fort; but shortly afterwards a soldier was seen hurrying towards

the latter, in the act of dressing himself in his regimentals, and

another running by his side, with his cartridge-box and musket. In

a little while one was passing up and down on his post, as though he

was as permanent there as the fort itself.

After completing these duties, the light airs detained us the remainder

of the day under Panay, in sight of the bay. On the 29th, at noon,

we had been wafted by it far enough in the offing to obtain the

easterly breeze, which soon became strong, with an overcast sky,

and carried us rapidly on our course; my time would not permit my

heaving-to. We kept on our course for Mindanao during the whole night,

and were constantly engaged in sounding, with our patent lead, with

from thirty to forty fathoms cast, to prevent our passing over this

part of the sea entirely unexamined.

[Mindanao.] At daylight on the 31st, we had the island of Mindanao

before us, but did not reach its western cape until 5 p.m. This island

is high and broken, like those to the north of it, but, unlike them,

its mountains are covered with forests to their very tops, and there

were no distinct cones of minor dimensions, as we had observed on

the others. If they do exist, they were hidden by the dense forest.

I had determined to anchor at Caldera, a small port on the south-west

side of Mindanao, about ten miles distant from Zamboanga, where the

governor resides. The latter is a considerable place, but the anchorage

in its roadstead is said to be bad, and the currents that run through

the Straits of Basilan are represented to be strong. Caldera, on the

other hand, has a good, though small anchorage, which is free from the

currents of the straits. It is therefore an excellent stopping-place,

in case of the tide proving unfavorable. On one of its points stands

a small fort, which, on our arrival, hoisted Spanish colors.

At six o'clock we came to anchor at Caldera, in seven fathoms

water. There were few indications of inhabitants, except at and

near the fort. An officer was despatched to the fort, to report the

ship. It was found to be occupied by a few soldiers under the command

of a lieutenant.

[Caldera fort.] The fort is about seventy feet square, and is built

of large blocks of red coral, which evidently have not been taken from

the vicinity of the place, as was stated by the officers of the fort;

for although our parties wandered along the alluvial beach for two or

three miles in each direction, no signs of coral were observed. Many

fragments of red, gray, and purple basalt and porphyry were met with

along the beach; talcose rock and slate, syenite, hornblend, quartz,

both compact and slaty, with chalcedony, were found in pieces and

large pebbles. Those who were engaged in dredging reported the bottom

as being of coral, in from four to six or eight fathoms; but this

was of a different kind from that of which the fort was constructed.

The fort was built in the year 1784, principally for protection against

the Sulu pirates, who were in the habit of visiting the settlements,

and carrying off the inhabitants as slaves, to obtain ransom for

them. This, and others of the same description, were therefore

constructed as places of refuge for the inhabitants, as well as to

afford protection to vessels.

Depredations are still committed, which render it necessary to keep

up a small force. One or two huts which were seen in the neighborhood

of the bay, are built on posts twenty feet from the ground, and into

them they ascend by ladders, which are hauled up after the occupants

have entered.

These, it is said, are the sleeping-huts, and are so built for the

purpose of preventing surprise at night. Before our arrival we had

heard that the villages were all so constructed, but a visit to one

soon showed that this was untrue. The natives seen at the village

were thought to be of a decidedly lighter color and a somewhat

different expression from the Malays. They were found to be very

civil, and more polished in manners than our gentlemen expected. On

asking for a drink of water, it was brought in a glass tumbler on a

china plate. An old woman, to whom they had presented some trifles,

took the trouble to meet them in another path on their return, and

insisted on their accepting a basket of potatoes. Some of the houses

contained several families, and many of them had no other means of

entrance than a notched post stuck up to the door.

The forests of Mindanao contain a great variety of trees, some of

which are of large size, rising to the height of one hundred and

and one hundred and fifty feet. Some of their trunks are shaped like

buttresses, similar to those before spoken of at Manila, from which

they obtain broad slabs for the tops of tables. The trunks were

observed to shoot up remarkably straight. Our botanical gentlemen,

though pleased with the excursion, were disappointed at not being

able to procure specimens from the lofty trees; and the day was less

productive in this respect than they had anticipated. Large woody

vines were common, which enveloped the trunks of trees in their folds,

and ascending to their tops, prevented the collection of the most

desirable specimens.

The paths leading to the interior were narrow and much obstructed;

one fine stream was crossed. Many buffaloes were observed wallowing

in the mire, and the woods swarmed with monkeys and numbers of birds,

among them the horn-bills; these kept up a continued chatter, and made

a variety of loud noises. The forests here are entirely different from

any we had seen elsewhere; and the stories of their being the abode

of large boas and poisonous snakes, make the effect still greater

on those who visit them for the first time. Our parties, however,

saw nothing of these reptiles, nor anything to warrant a belief that

such exist. Yet the officer at the fort related to me many snake

stories that seemed to have some foundation; and by inquiries made

elsewhere, I learned that they were at least warranted by some facts,

though probably not to the extent that he represented.

Traces of deer and wild hogs were seen, and many birds were obtained,

as well as land and sea shells. Among the latter was the Malleus

vulgaris, which is used as food by the natives. The soil on this

part of the island is a stiff clay, and the plants it produces

are mostly woody; those of an herbaceous character were scarce,

and only a few orchideous epiphytes and ferns were seen. Around the

dwellings in the villages were a variety of vegetables and fruits,

consisting of sugar-cane, sweet-potato, gourds, pumpkins, peppers,

rice, water and musk melons, all fine and of large size.

The officer at the fort was a lieutenant of infantry; one of that rank

is stationed here for a month, after which he, with the garrison,

consisting of three soldiers, are relieved, from Zamboanga, where

the Spaniards have three companies.

[Zamboanga.] Zamboanga is a convict settlement, to which the native

rogues, principally thieves, are sent. The Spanish criminals, as I

have before stated in speaking of Manila, are sent to Spain.

The inhabitants of the island of Mindanao, who are under the subjection

of Spain, are about ten thousand in number, of whom five or six

thousand are at or in the neighborhood of Zamboanga. The original

inhabitants, who dwell in the mountains and on the east coast, are

said to be quite black, and are represented to be a very cruel and

bad set; they have hitherto bid defiance to all attempts to subjugate

them. When the Spaniards make excursions into the interior, which is

seldom, they always go in large parties on account of the wild beasts,

serpents, and hostile natives; nevertheless, the latter frequently

attack and drive them back.

The little fort is considered as a sufficient protection for the

fishermen and small vessels against the pirates, who inhabit the

island of Basilan, which is in sight from Mindanao, and forms the

southern side of the straits of the same name. It is said that about

seven hundred inhabit it. The name of Moro is given by the Spaniards

to all those who profess the Mohammedan religion, and by such all the

islands to the west of Mindanao, and known under the name of the Sulu

archipelago, are inhabited.

The day we spent at Caldera was employed in surveying the bay, and

in obtaining observations for its geographical position, and for

magnetism. The flood tide sets to the northward and westward, through

the straits, and the ebb to the eastward. In the bay we found it to

run two miles an hour by the log, but it must be much more rapid in

the straits.

At daylight on February 1st, we got under way to stand over for

the Sangboys, a small island with two sharp hills on it. One and a

half miles from the bay we passed over a bank, the least water on

which was ten fathoms on a sandy bottom, and on which a vessel might

anchor. The wind shortly after failed us, and we drifted with the tide

for some hours, in full view of the island of Mindanao, which is bold

and picturesque. We had thus a good opportunity of measuring some of

its mountain ranges, which we made about three thousand feet high.

In the afternoon, a light breeze came from the southwest, and before

sunset I found that we were again on soundings. As soon as we had

a cast of twenty fathoms, I anchored for the night, judging it much

better than to be drifting about without any knowledge of the locality

and currents to which we were subjected.

On the morning of the 2nd, we got under way to proceed to the

westward. As the bottom was unequal, I determined to pass through

the broadest channel, although it had the appearance of being the

shoalest, and sent two boats ahead to sound. In this way we passed

through, continuing our surveying operations, and at the same time

made an attempt to dredge; but the ground was too uneven for the

latter purpose, and little of value was obtained.

[Sulu.] Shortly after passing the Sangboys, we had the island of

Sulu in sight, for which I now steered direct. At sunset we found

ourselves within five or six miles of Soung Harbor; but there was not

sufficient light to risk the dangers that might be in our course,

nor wind enough to command the ship; and having no bottom where we

were, I determined again to run out to sea, and anchor on the first

bank I should meet. At half-past eight o'clock, we struck sounding

in twenty-six fathoms, and anchored.

At daylight we determined our position by angles, and found it

to correspond with part of the route we had passed over the day

before, and that we were about fifteen miles from the large island

of Sulu. Weighing anchor, we were shortly wafted by the westerly

tide and a light air towards that beautiful island, which lay in the

midst of its little archipelago; and as we were brought nearer and

nearer, we came to the conclusion that in our many wanderings we had

seen nothing to be compared to this enchanting spot. It appeared to

be well cultivated, with gentle slopes rising here and there into

eminences from one to two thousand feet high. One or two of these

might be dignified with the name of mountains, and were sufficiently

high to arrest the passing clouds; on the afternoon of our arrival

we had a singular example in the dissipation of a thunderstorm.

Although much of the island was under cultivation, yet it had all the

freshness of a forest region. The many smokes on the hills, buildings

of large size, cottages, and cultivated spots, together with the

moving crowds on the land, the prahus, canoes, and fishing-boats on

the water gave the whole a civilized appearance. Our own vessel lay,

almost without a ripple at her side, on the glassy surface of the

sea, carried onwards to our destined anchorage by the flowing tide,

and scarce a sound was heard except the splashing of the lead as

it sought the bottom. The effect of this was destroyed in part by

the knowledge that this beautiful archipelago was the abode of a

cruel and barbarous race of pirates. Towards sunset we had nearly

reached the bay of Soung, when we were met by the opposing tide,

which frustrated all our endeavors to reach it, and I was compelled

to anchor, lest we should again be swept to sea.

As soon as the night set in, fishermen's lights were seen moving along

the beach in all directions, and gliding about in canoes, while the sea

was filled with myriads of phosphorescent animalcula. After watching

this scene for two or three hours in the calm and still night, a storm

that had been gathering reached us; but it lasted only for a short

time, and cleared off after a shower, which gave the air a freshness

that was delightful after the sultry heat we had experienced during

the day.

The canoes of this archipelago were found to be different from any

that we had heretofore seen, not only in shape, but in making use

of a double outrigger, which consequently must give them additional

security. The paddle also is of a different shape, and has a blade at

each end, which are used alternately, thus enabling a single person to

manage them with ease. These canoes are made of a single log, though

some are built upon. They seldom carry more than two persons. The

figure on the opposite page will give a correct idea of one of them.

We saw the fishermen engaged in trolling and using the line; but the

manner of taking fish which has been heretofore described is chiefly

practised. In fishing, as well as in all their other employments,

the kris and spear were invariably by their side.

[Sulu harbor.] The next morning at eight o'clock we got under way,

and were towed by our boats into the bay of Soung, where we anchored

off the town in nine fathoms water. While in the act of doing so,

and after our intentions had become too evident to admit of a doubt,

the Sultan graciously sent off a message giving us permission to

enter his port.

Lieutenant Budd was immediately despatched with the interpreter to call

upon the Datu Mulu or governor, and to learn at what hour we could see

the Sultan. When the officer reached the town, all were found asleep;

and after remaining four hours waiting, the only answer he could get

out of the Datu Mulu was, that he supposed that the Sultan would be

awake at three o'clock, when he thought I could see him.

During this time the boats had been prepared for surveying; and after

landing the naturalists, they began the work.

At the appointed time, Captain Hudson and myself went on shore to wait

upon the Sultan. On our approach to the town, we found that a great

proportion of it was built over the water on piles, and only connected

with the shore by narrow bridges of bamboo. The style of building in

Sulu does not differ materially from that of the Malays. The houses

are rather larger, and they surpass the others in filth.

[Pirate craft.] We passed for some distance between the bridges to

the landing, and on our way saw several piratical prahus apparently

laid up. Twenty of these were counted, of about thirty tons burden,

evidently built for sea-vessels, and capable of mounting one or two

long guns. We landed at a small streamlet, and walked a short distance

to the Datu's house, which is of large dimensions and rudely built on

piles, which raise it about six feet above the ground, and into which

we were invited. The house of the Datu contains one room, part of which

is screened off to form the apartment of his wife. Nearly in the center

is a raised dais, eight or ten feet square, under which are stowed

all his valuables, packed in chests and Chinese trunks. Upon this

dais are placed mats for sleeping, with cushions, pillows, etc.; and

over it is a sort of canopy, hung around with fine chintz or muslin.

The dais was occupied by the Datu, who is, next to the Sultan, the

greatest man of this island. He at once came from it to receive us, and

had chairs provided for us near his sanctum. After we were seated, he

again retired to his lounge. The Datu is small in person, and emaciated

in form, but has a quick eye and an intelligent countenance. He

lives, as he told me, with all his goods around him, and they formed

a collection such as I could scarcely imagine it possible to bring

together in such a place. The interior put me in mind of a barn

inhabited by a company of strolling players. On one side were hung up

a collection of various kinds of gay dresses, here drums and gongs,

there swords, lanterns, spears, muskets, and small cannon; on another

side were shields, buckler, masks, saws, and wheels, with belts, bands,

and long robes. The whole was a strange mixture of tragedy and farce;

and the group of natives were not far removed in appearance from the

supernumeraries that a Turkish tragedy might have brought together in

the green-room of a theatre. A set of more cowardly-looking miscreants

I never saw. They appeared ready either to trade with us, pick our

pockets, or cut our throats, as an opportunity might offer.

The wife's apartment was not remarkable for its comforts, although

the Datu spoke of it with much consideration, and evidently held his

better half in high estimation. He was also proud of his six children,

the youngest of whom he brought out in its nurse's arms, and exhibited

with much pride and satisfaction. He particularly drew my attention

to its little highly-wrought and splendidly-mounted kris, which was

stuck through its girdle, as an emblem of his rank. He was in reality a

fine-looking child. The kitchen was behind the house, and occupied but

a small space, for they have little in the way of food that requires

much preparation. The house of the Datu might justly be termed nasty.

We now learned the reason why the Sultan could not be seen; it was

Friday, the Mahomedan Sabbath, and he had been at the mosque from

an early hour. Lieutenant Budd had been detained, because it was not

known when he would finish his prayers; and the ceremonies of the day

were more important than usual, on account of its peculiar sanctity

in their calendar.

[Visiting the Sultan.] Word had been sent off to the ship that the

Sultan was ready to receive me, but the messenger passed us while on

our way to shore. After we had been seated for a while, the Datu asked

if we were ready to accompany him to see the Sultan; but intimated

that no one but Captain Hudson and myself could be permitted to

lay eyes on him. Being informed that we were, he at once, and in

our presence, slipped on his silken trousers, and a new jacket,

covered with bell-buttons; put on his slippers, strapped himself

round with a long silken net sash, into which he stuck his kris, and,

with umbrella in hand, said he was ready. He now led the way out of

his house, leaving the motley group behind, and we took the path to

the interior of the town, towards the Sultan's. The Datu and I walked

hand in hand, on a roadway about ten feet wide, with a small stream

running on each side. Captain Hudson and the interpreter came next,

and a guard of six trusty slaves brought up the rear.

When we reached the outskirts of the town, about half a mile from

the Datu's, we came to the Sultan's residence, where he was prepared

to receive us in state. His house is constructed in the same manner

as that of the Datu, but is of larger dimensions, and the piles are

rather higher. Instead of steps, we found a ladder, rudely constructed

of bamboo, and very crazy. This was so steep that it was necessary to

use the hands in mounting it. I understood that the ladder was always

removed in the night, for the sake of security. We entered at once

into the presence-chamber, where the whole divan, if such it may be

called, sat in arm-chairs, occupying the half of a large round table,

covered with a white cotton cloth. On the opposite side of the table,

seats were placed for us. On our approach, the Sultan and all his

council rose, and motioned us to our seats. When we had taken them,

the part of the room behind us was literally crammed with well-armed

men. A few minutes were passed in silence, during which time we

had an opportunity of looking at each other, and around the hall in

which we were seated. The latter was of very common workmanship, and

exhibited no signs of oriental magnificence. Overhead hung a printed

cotton cloth, forming a kind of tester, which covered about half of

the apartment. In other places the roof and rafters were visible. A

part of the house was roughly partitioned off, to the height of nine

or ten feet, enclosing, as I was afterwards told, the Sultan's sleeping

apartment, and that appropriated to his wife and her attendants.

The Sultan is of middle height, spare and thin; he was dressed in a

white cotton shirt, loose trousers of the same material, and slippers;

he had no stockings; the bottom of his trousers was worked in scollops

with blue silk, and this was the only ornament I saw about him. On his

head he wore a small colored cotton handkerchief, wound into a turban,

that just covered the top of his head. His eyes were bloodshot, and had

an uneasy wild look, showing that he was under the effects of opium,

of which they all smoke large quantities. His teeth were as black as

ebony, which, with his bright cherry-colored lips, [271] contrasted

with his swarthy skin, gave him anything but a pleasant look.

On the left hand of the Sultan sat his two sons, while his right

was occupied by his councillors; just behind him, sat the carrier

of his betel-nut casket. The casket was of filigree silver, about

the size of a small tea-caddy, of oblong shape, and rounded at the

top. It had three divisions, one for the leaf, another for the nut,

and a third for the lime. Next to this official was the pipe-bearer,

who did not appear to be held in such estimation as the former.

[Treaty with United States.] I opened the conversation by desiring

that the Datu would explain the nature of our visit, and tell the

Sultan that I had come to make the treaty which he had some time

before desired to form with the United States. [272]

The Sultan replied that such was still his desire; upon which I told

him I would draw one up for him that same day. While I was explaining

to him the terms, a brass candlestick was brought in with a lighted

tallow candle, of a very dark color, and rude shape, that showed

but little art in the manufacture. This was placed in the center

of the table, with a plate of Manila cigars. None of them, however,

were offered to us, nor any kind of refreshment.

Our visit lasted nearly an hour. When we arose to take our leave,

the Sultan and his divan did the same, and we made our exit with low

bows on each side.

I looked upon it as a matter of daily occurrence for all those

who came to the island to visit the Sultan; but the Datu Mulu took

great pains to make me believe that a great favor had been granted in

allowing us a sight of his ruler. On the other hand, I dwelt upon the

condescension it was on my part to visit him, and I refused to admit

that I was under any gratitude or obligation for the sight of His

Majesty the Sultan Mohammed Damaliel Kisand, but said that he might

feel grateful to me if he signed the treaty I would prepare for him.

On our return from the Sultan's to the Datu Mulu's house, we found

even a greater crowd than before. The Datu, however, contrived to

get us seats. The attraction which drew it together was to look at

Mr. Agate, who was taking a sketch of Mohammed Polalu, the Sultan's

son, and next heir to the throne. I had hoped to procure one of the

Sultan, but this was declared to be impossible.

The son, however, has all the characteristics of the Sulu, and

the likeness was thought an excellent one. Mohammed Polalu is about

twenty-three years of age, of a tall slender figure, with a long face,

heavy and dull eyes, as though he was constantly under the influence

of opium. So much, indeed, was he addicted to the use of this drug,

even according to the Datu Mulu's accounts, that his strength and

constitution were very much impaired. As he is kept particularly

under the guardianship of the Datu, the latter has a strong interest

in preserving this influence over him, and seems on this account to

afford him every opportunity of indulging in this deplorable habit.

During our visit, the effects of a pipe of this drug were seen upon

him; for but a short time after he had reclined himself on the Datu's

couch and cushion, and taken a few whiffs, he was entirely overcome,

stupid, and listless. I had never seen any one so young, bearing

such evident marks of the effects of this deleterious drug. When

but partially recovered from its effects he called for his betelnut,

to revive him by its exciting effects. This was carefully chewed by

his attendant to a proper consistency, moulded in a ball about the

size of a walnut, and then slipped into the mouth of the heir apparent.

[Interior travel prohibited.] One of the requests I had made of the

Sultan was, that the officers might have guides to pass over the

island. This was at once said to be too dangerous to be attempted, as

the datus of the interior and southern towns would in all probability

attack the parties. I understood what this meant, and replied that

I was quite willing to take the responsibility, and that the party

should be well armed. To this the Sultan replied that he would

not risk his own men. This I saw was a mere evasion, but it was

difficult and would be dangerous for our gentlemen to proceed alone,

and I therefore said no more. On our return to the Datu's, I gave

them permission to get as far from the beach as they could, but I was

afterwards informed by them that in endeavoring to penetrate into the

woods, they were always stopped by armed men. This was also the case

when they approached particular parts of the town, but they were not

molested as long as their rambles were confined to the beach. At the

Datu's we were treated to chocolate and negus in gilt-edged tumblers,

with small stale cakes, which had been brought from Manila.

After we had sat some time I was informed that Mr. Dana missed his

bowie-knife pistol, which he had for a moment laid down on a chest. I

at once came to the conclusion that it had been stolen, and as the

theft had occurred in the Datu's house, I determined to hold him

responsible for it, and gave him at once to understand that I should

do so, informing him that the pistol must be returned before the next

morning, or he must take the consequences. This threw him into some

consternation, and by my manner he felt that I was serious.

Captain Hudson and myself, previous to our return on board, visited

the principal parts of the town. The Chinese quarter is separated

by a body of water, and has a gateway that leads to a bridge. The

bridge is covered by a roof, and on each side of it are small shops,

which are open in front, and thus expose the goods they contain. In

the rear of the shops were the dwellings of the dealers. This sort

of bazaar contained but a very scanty assortment, and the goods were

of inferior quality.

We visited some blacksmith-shops, where they were manufacturing krises

and spears. These shops were open sheds; the fire was made upon the

ground, and two wooden cylinders, whose valves were in the bottom,

served for bellows; when used, they had movable pistons, which were

worked by a man on an elevated seat, and answered the purpose better

than could have been expected.

The kris is a weapon in which this people take great pride; it is of

various shapes and sizes, and is invariably worn from infancy to old

age; they are generally wavy in their blades, and are worn in wooden

scabbards, which are neatly made and highly polished.

The market was well stocked with fruit and fish. Among the former the

durian seemed to predominate; this was the first time we had seen

it. It has a very disagreeable odour, as if decayed, and appears

to emit a sulphuretted hydrogen gas, which I observed blackened

silver. Some have described this fruit as delicious, but if the

smell is not enough, the taste in my opinion will convince any one

of the contrary.

Mr. Brackenridge made the following list of their fruits: Durian,

Artocarpus integrifolia, Melons, water and musk, Oranges, mandarin

and bitter, Pineapples, Carica papaya, Mangosteen, Bread-fruit,

Coco and Betelnut. The vegetables were capsicums, cucumbers, yams,

sweet-potatoes, garlic, onions, edible fern-roots, and radishes of

the salmon variety, but thicker and more acrid in flavor.

[A stolen granite monument.] In walking about the parts of the town we

were permitted to enter, large slabs of cut granite were seen, which

were presumed to be from China, where the walls of canals or streamlets

are lined with it. But Dr. Pickering in his rambles discovered pieces

that had been cut as if to form a monument, and remarked a difference

between it and the Chinese kind. On one or two pieces he saw the mark

No. 1, in black paint; the material resembled the Chelmsford granite,

and it occurred to him that the stone had been cut in Boston. I

did not hear of this circumstance until after we had left Sulu, and

have little doubt now that the interdiction against our gentlemen

visiting some parts of the town was owing to the fear they had of the

discovery of this plunder. This may have been the reason why they so

readily complied with my demands, in order to get rid of us as soon as

possible, feeling themselves guilty, and being unprepared for defence;

for, of the numerous guns mounted, few if any were serviceable.

The theft of the pistol was so barefaced an affair, that I made up

my mind to insist on its restoration. At the setting of the watch

in the evening, it had been our practice on board the Vincennes to

fire a small brass howitzer. This frequently, in the calm evenings,

produced a great reverberation, and rolled along the water to the

surrounding islands with considerable noise. Instead of it, on this

evening, I ordered one of the long guns to be fired, believing that

the sound and reverberation alone would suffice to intimidate such

robbers. One was accordingly fired in the direction of the town,

which fairly shook the island, as they said, and it was not long

before we saw that the rogues were fully aroused, for the clatter of

gongs and voices that came over the water, and the motion of lights,

convinced me that the pistol would be forthcoming in the morning. In

this I was not mistaken, for at early daylight I was awakened by a

special messenger from the Datu to tell me that the pistol was found,

and would be brought off without delay; that he had been searching for

it all night, and had at last succeeded in finding it, as well as the

thief, on whom he intended to inflict the bastinado. Accordingly, in

a short time the pistol was delivered on board, and every expression

of friendship and good-will given, with the strongest assurances that

nothing of the kind should happen again.

[Marongas island.] As our naturalists could have no opportunity

of rambling over the island of Sooloo, it was thought that one

of the neighbouring islands (although not so good a field) would

afford them many of the same results, and that they could examine

it unmolested. Accordingly, at an early hour, they were despatched

in boats for that purpose, with a sufficient guard to attend them

in case of necessity. The island on which they landed, Marongas,

has two hills of volcanic conglomerate and vesicular lava, containing

angular fragments embedded. The bottom was covered with living coral,

of every variety, and of different colors; but there was nothing like

a regular coral shelf, and the beach was composed of bits of coral

intermixed with dead shells, both entire and comminuted. The center

of the island was covered with mangrove-bushes; the hills were cones,

but had no craters on them. The mangroves had grown in clusters,

giving the appearance of a number of small islets. This, with the

neighboring islands, were thought to be composed in a great part of

coral, but it was impossible for our gentlemen to determine the fact.

The day was exceedingly hot, and the island was suffering to such

a degree from drought that the leaves in many cases were curled and

appeared dry. On the face of the rocky cliff they saw many swallows

(hirundo esculenta) flying in and out of the caverns facing the sea;

but they were not fortunate enough to find any of the edible nests,

so much esteemed by Chinese epicures.

At another part of the island they heard the crowing of a cock,

and discovered a small village, almost hidden by the mangroves, and

built over the water. In the neighborhood were several fish-baskets

set out to dry, as well as a quantity of fencing for weirs, all made

of rattan. Their shape was somewhat peculiar. After a little while the

native fishermen were seen approaching, who evidently had a knowledge

of their visit from the first. They came near with great caution

in their canoes; but after the first had spoken and reconnoitered,

several others landed, exhibiting no signs of embarrassment, and soon

motioned our party off. To indicate that force would be resorted to,

in case of refusal, at the same time they pointed to their arms, and

drew their krises. Our gentlemen took this all in good part, and, after

dispensing a few trifling presents among them, began their retreat

with a convenient speed, without, however, compromising their dignity.

The excursion had been profitable in the way of collections, having

yielded a number of specimens of shrubs and trees, both in flower

and fruit; but owing to the drought, the herbaceous plants were, for

the most part, dried up. Among the latter, however, they saw a large

and fine terrestrial species of Epidendrum, whose stem grew to the

height of several feet, and when surmounted by its flowers reached

twelve or fifteen feet high. Many of the salt-marsh plants seen in

the Fijis, were also observed here. Besides the plants, some shells

and a beautiful cream-colored pigeon were obtained.

During the day we were busily engaged in the survey of the harbor,

and in making astronomical and magnetical observations on the beach,

while some of the officers were employed purchasing curiosities,

on shore, at the town, and alongside the ship. These consisted of

krises, spears, shields, and shells; and the Sulus were not slow in

comprehending the kind of articles we were in search of.

Few if any of the Sulus can write or read, though many talk

Spanish. Their accounts are all kept by the slaves. Those who can read

and write are, in consequence, highly prized. All the accounts of the

Datu of Soung are kept in Dutch, by a young Malay from Tarnate, who

writes a good hand, and speaks English, and whom we found exceedingly

useful to us. He is the slave of the Datu, who employs him for this

purpose only. He told us he was captured in a brig by the pirates of

Basilan, and sold here as a slave, where he is likely to remain for

life, although he says the Datu has promised to give him his freedom

after ten years.

Horses, cows, and buffaloes are the beasts of burden, and a Sulu

may usually be seen riding either one or the other, armed cap-a-pie,

with kris, spear, and target, or shield.

They use saddles cut out of solid wood, and many ride with their

stirrups so short that they bring the knees very high, and the

riders look more like well-grown monkeys than mounted men. The cows

and buffaloes are guided by a piece of thong, through the cartilage

of the nose. By law, no swine are allowed to be kept on the island,

and if they are bought, they are immediately killed. The Chinese are

obliged to raise and kill their pigs very secretly, when they desire

that species of food; for, notwithstanding the law and the prejudices

of the inhabitants, the former continue to keep swine.

[Natives.] The inhabitants of Sulu are a tall, thin, and

effeminate-looking race: I do not recollect to have seen one corpulent

person among them. Their faces are peculiar for length, particularly

in the lower jaw and chin, with high cheek-bones, sunken, lack-lustre

eyes, and narrow foreheads. Their heads are thinly covered with hair,

which appears to be kept closely cropped. I was told that they pluck

out their beards, and dye their teeth black with antimony, and some

file them.

Their eyebrows appear to be shaven, forming a very regular and high

arch, which they esteem a great beauty.

The dress of the common people is very like that of the Chinese,

with loose and full sleeves, without buttons. The materials of which

it is made are grass-cloths, silks, satins, or white cotton, from

China. I should judge from the appearance of their persons, that they

ought to be termed, so far as ablutions go, a cleanly people. There

is no outward respect or obeisance shown by the slave to his master,

nor is the presence of the Datu, or even of the Sultan himself, held

in any awe. All appear upon an equality, and there does not seem to

be any controlling power; yet it may be at once perceived that they

are suspicious and jealous of strangers.

The Sulus, although they are ready to do any thing for the sake of

plunder, even to the taking of life, yet are not disposed to hoard

their ill-gotten wealth, and, with all their faults, cannot be termed

avaricious.

They have but few qualities to redeem their treachery, cruelty,

and revengeful dispositions; and one of the principal causes of

their being so predominant, or even of their existence, is their

inordinate lust for power. When they possess this, it is accompanied

by a haughty, consequential, and ostentatious bravery. No greater

affront can be offered to a Sulu, than to underrate his dignity and

official consequence. Such an insult is seldom forgiven, and never

forgotten. From one who has made numerous voyages to these islands, I

have obtained many of the above facts, and my own observation assures

me that this view of their character is a correct one. I would,

however, add another trait, which is common among them, and that is

cowardice, which is obvious, in spite of their boasted prowess and

daring. This trait of character is universally ascribed to them among

the Spaniards in the Philippines, who ought to be well acquainted

with them.

The dress of the women is not unlike that of the men in

appearance. They wear close jackets of various colors when they go

abroad, and the same loose breeches as the men, but over them they

usually have a large wrapper (sarong), not unlike the pareu of the

Polynesian islanders, which is put round them like a petticoat, or

thrown over the shoulders. Their hair is drawn to the back of the head,

and around the forehead it is shaven in the form of a regular arch,

to correspond with the eyebrows. Those that I saw at the Sultan's

were like the Malays, and had light complexions, with very black

teeth. The Datu thought them very handsome, and on our return he

asked me if I had seen the Sultan's beauties. The females of Sulu

have the reputation of ruling their lords, and possess much weight

in the government by the influence they exert over their husbands.

[Superiority of women.] It may be owing to this that there is little

jealousy of their wives, who are said to hold their virtues in no

very great estimation. In their houses they are but scantily clothed,

though women of rank have always a large number of rings on their

fingers, some of which are of great value, as well as earrings of

fine gold. They wear no stockings, but have on Chinese slippers, or

Spanish shoes. They are as capable of governing as their husbands,

and in many cases more so, as they associate with the slaves, from

whom they obtain some knowledge of Christendom, and of the habits

and customs of other nations, which they study to imitate in every way.

The mode in which the Sulus employ their time may be exemplified by

giving that of the Datu; for all, whether free or slave, endeavor to

imitate the higher rank as far as is in their power. The datus seldom

rise before eleven o'clock, unless they have some particular business;

and the Datu Mulu complained of being sleepy in consequence of the

early hour at which we had disturbed him.

On rising, they have chocolate served in gilt glassware, with some

light biscuit, and sweetmeats imported from China or Manila, of

which they informed me they laid in large supplies. They then lounge

about their houses, transacting a little business, and playing at

various games, or, in the trading season, go to the meeting of the

Ruma Bechara.

At sunset they take their principal meal, consisting of stews of fish,

poultry, beef, eggs, and rice, prepared somewhat after the Chinese

and Spanish modes, mixed up with that of the Malay. Although Moslems,

they do not forego the use of wine, and some are said to indulge in

it to a great extent. After sunset, when the air has become somewhat

cooled by the refreshing breezes, they sally forth attended by their

retainers to take a walk, or proceed to the bazaars to purchase goods,

or to sell or to barter away their articles of produce. They then pay

visits to their friends, when they are in the habit of having frequent

convivial parties, talking over their bargains, smoking cigars,

drinking wine and liquors, tea, coffee, and chocolate, and indulging

in their favorite pipe of opium. At times they are entertained with

music, both vocal and instrumental, by their dependants. Of this art

they appear to be very fond, and there are many musical instruments

among them. A datu, indeed, would be looked upon as uneducated if he

could not play on some instrument.

It is considered polite that when refreshments are handed they should

be partaken of. Those offered us by the Datu were such as are usual,

but every thing was stale. Of fruit they are said to be very fond,

and can afford to indulge themselves in any kinds. With all these

articles to cloy the appetite, only one set meal a day is taken;

though the poorer classes, fishermen and laborers, partake of two.

[Government.] The government of the Sulu Archipelago is a kind of

oligarchy, and the supreme authority is vested in the Sultan and the

Ruma Bechara or trading council. This consists of about twenty chiefs,

either datus, or their next in rank, called orangs, who are governors

of towns or detached provinces. The influence of the individual

chiefs depends chiefly upon the number of their retainers or slaves,

and the force they can bring into their service when they require

it. These are purchased from the pirates, who bring them to Sulu and

its dependencies for sale. The slaves are employed in a variety of

ways, as in trading prahus, in the pearl and bêche de met fisheries,

and in the search after the edible birds' nests.

A few are engaged in agriculture, and those who are at all educated

are employed as clerks. These slaves are not denied the right of

holding property, which they enjoy during their lives, but at their

death it reverts to the master. Some of them are quite rich, and

what may appear strange, the slaves of Sulu are invariably better

off than the untitled freemen, who are at all times the prey of the

hereditary datus, even of those who hold no official stations. By

all accounts these constitute a large proportion of the population,

and it being treason for any low-born freeman to injure or maltreat

a datu, the latter, who are of a haughty, overbearing, and tyrannical

disposition, seldom keep themselves within bounds in their treatment

of their inferiors. The consequence is, the lower class of freemen

are obliged to put themselves under the protection of some particular

datu, which guards them from the encroachment of others. The chief

to whom they thus attach themselves, is induced to treat them well,

in order to retain their services, and attach them to his person,

that he may, in case of need, be enabled to defend himself from

depredations, and the violence of his neighbors.

Such is the absence of legal restraint, that all find it necessary

to go abroad armed, and accompanied by a trusty set of followers,

who are also armed. This is the case both by day and night, and,

according to the Datu's account, frequent affrays take place in the

open streets, which not unfrequently end in bloodshed.

Caution is never laid aside, the only law that exists being that of

force; but the weak contrive to balance the power of the strong by

uniting. They have not only contentions and strife among themselves,

but it was stated at Manila that the mountaineers of Sulu, who are

said to be Christians, occasionally make inroads upon them. At Sulu,

however, it did not appear that they were under much apprehension of

these attacks. The only fear I heard expressed was by the Sultan,

in my interview with him; and the cause of this, as I have already

stated, was probably a desire to find an excuse for not affording us

facilities to go into the interior. Within twenty years, however,

the reigning sultan has been obliged to retire within his forts,

in the town of Sulu, which I have before adverted to.

These people are hostile to the Sulus of the coast and towns, who

take every opportunity to rob them of their cattle and property,

for which the mountaineers seek retaliation when they have an

opportunity. From the manner in which the Datu spoke of them,

they are not much regarded. Through another source I learned that

the mountaineers were Papuans, and the original inhabitants of the

islands, who pay tribute to the Sultan, and have acknowledged his

authority, ever since they were converted to Islamism. Before that

time they were considered extremely ferocious, and whenever it was

practicable they were destroyed. Others speak of an original race

of Dyacks in the interior, but there is one circumstance to satisfy

me that there is no confidence to be placed in this account, namely,

that the island is not of sufficient extent to accommodate so numerous

a population as some ascribe to it.

The forts consist of a double row of piles, filled in with coral

blocks. That situated on the east side of the small stream may be

said to mount a few guns, but these are altogether inefficient; and

in another, on the west side, which is rather a rude embankment than

a fort, there are some twelve or fifteen pieces of large calibre;

but I doubt very much if they had been fired off for years, and many

of the houses built upon the water would require to be pulled down

before these guns could be brought to bear upon any thing on the side

of the bay, supposing them to be in a good condition; a little farther

to the east of the town, I was informed they had a kind of stockade,

but none of us were permitted to see it.

[Population.] According to our estimates, and the information we

received while at Sulu, the island itself does not contain more than

thirty thousand inhabitants, of which the town of Soung may have six

or seven thousand. The whole group may number about one hundred and

thirty thousand. I am aware, however, that it is difficult to estimate

the population of a half-civilized people, who invariably exaggerate

their own strength; and visitors are likewise prone to do the same

thing. The Chinese comprise about an eighth of the population of the

town, and are generally of the lower class. They are constantly busy

at their trades, and intent upon making money.

At Soung, business seems active, and all, slaves as well as masters,

seem to engage in it. The absence of a strong government leaves all at

liberty to act for themselves, and the Ruma Bechara gives unlimited

freedom to trade. These circumstances promote the industry of the

community, and even that of the slave, for he too, as before observed,

has a life interest in what he earns.

Soung being the residence of the Sultan, as well as the grand depot

for all piratical goods, is probably more of a mart than any of the

surrounding towns. In the months of March and April it is visited by

several Chinese junks, who remain trading until the beginning of the

month of August. If delayed after that time, they can scarcely return

in safety, being unable to contend with the boisterous weather and

head winds that then prevail in the Chinese seas. These junks are said

to come chiefly from Amoy, where the cottons, etc., best suited for

the Sulus are made. Their cargoes consist of a variety of articles of

Chinese manufacture and produce, such as silk, satin goods, cottons,

red and checked, grass-cloth clothing, handkerchiefs, cutlery, guns,

ammunition, opium, lumber, china and glass-ware, rice, sugar, oil,

lard, and butter. In return for this merchandise they obtain camphor,

birds' nests, rattans, bêche de mer, pearls, and pearl-shells, coco,

tortoise-shell, and wax; but there is no great quantity of these

articles to be obtained, perhaps not more than two or three cargoes

during the season. The trade requires great knowledge of the articles

purchased, for the Chinese and Sulus are both such adepts in fraud,

that great caution and circumspection are necessary.

[Customs dues.] The duties on importation are not fixed, but are

changed and altered from time to time by the Ruma Bechara. The

following was stated to me as the necessary payments before trade

could be carried on:

A large ship, with Chinese on board, pays $2,000

A large ship, without Chinese on board, pays 1,800

Small ships 1,500

Large brig 1,000

Small brig 500

Schooners from 150 to 400

This supposes them all to have full cargoes. That a difference should

be made in a vessel with or without Chinamen, seems singular; but this,

I was told, arose from the circumstance that English vessels take them

on board, in order to detect and prevent the impositions of the Sulus.