[Missionaries' achievements.] Evidently, it is necessary to appeal to

aid of another kind, and to employ means, which, although indirect

ones, are, beyond all dispute, the best adapted to the peculiar

circumstances of the country,--means which, by influencing the mind,

excite veneration, subdue the rude understanding of the inhabitants,

and incline them to bear our dominion without repugnance. It is well

understood what these means are, how much they are at hand, and how

greatly also they have always been envied by other European nations,

who have sought to extend and consolidate their conquests in both

the Indies. Let us listen to La Pérouse, if we wish to know and

admire the army with which our missionaries subdued the natives of

both Californias; let us read, dispassionately, the wonderful deeds

of the Jesuits in other parts of America, and, above all, let us

visit the Philippine Islands and, with astonishment, shall we there

behold extended ranges, studded with temples and spacious convents;

the Divine worship celebrated with pomp and splendor; regularity

in the streets, and even luxury in the houses and dress; schools

of the first rudiments in all the towns, and the inhabitants well

versed in the art of writing. We shall there see causeways raised,

bridges of a good architecture built, and, in short, all the measure

of good government and police, in the greatest part of the country,

carried into effect, yet the whole is due to the exertions, apostolic

labors and pure patriotism of the ministers of religion. Let us

travel over the provinces, and we shall there see towns of 5000,

10,000, and 20,000 Indians, peacefully governed by one weak old man,

who, with his doors open at all hours, sleeps quiet and secure in

his dwelling, without any other magic, or any other guards, than the

love and respect with which he has known to inspire his flock. And,

when this is contemplated, can it be deemed possible, through foolish

jealousy and vain wish for those persons only pointed out by the

general laws in ordinary cases, to intervene in the government of the

natives, that the fruit of so much time constancy are not to be lost,

but also by hereafter disregarding and rejecting a co-operation,

as efficient as it is economical, that attempts should purposely be

made to destroy the mainspring of the whole of this political machine?

[Curtailing priestly authority.] Such, nevertheless, are the mistaken

ideas which, within the last few years, have unhappily led to the

adoption of measures, diametrically opposed to the public interest,

under the pretext of curtailing the excessive authority of the

parish-curates. The superior government, not satisfied with having

deprived the ministers of the faculty of personally prescribing certain

correctional punishments, which although of little moment, when applied

with discretion, greatly contributed to fortify their ascendency,

and consequently, that of the sovereign; but, in order to exclude and

divest them of all intervention in the civil administration, a direct

attempt has also been made to lower the esteem in which they are held,

by awakening the distrust of the Indian, and, as much as possible,

removing him to a greater distance from them. In proof of this, and

in order that what has been said may not be deemed an exaggeration,

it will suffice to quote the substance of two regulations, remarkable

for their obvious tendency to weaken the influence and credit of the

spiritual administrators.

By one of these, it is enacted that in order to prevent the abuses

and notorious malversation of the funds of the sanctuary, specially

applicable to the expenses of the festivities and worship of each

parish, and arising out of the real and half for this purpose

contributed by each tributary person, and collected and privately

administered by the curate, the same shall hereafter be kept in a chest

with three keys, and lodged in the head-town of each province. The keys

are to be left, one in possession of the chief magistrate, another in

the hands of the governor of the respective town, and the remaining

one with the parish-curate. By the other measure it is declared, as

a standing rule, that no Indian, who may lately have been employed

in the domestic service of the curate, shall in his own town be

considered eligible to any office belonging to the judicial department.

On measures of this kind, comments are unnecessary; their meaning and

effect cannot be mistaken. I shall, therefore, merely observe, that

no untimely means could have been devised more injurious to the state,

to the propagation of religion, and even to the natives themselves. It

is, in fact, a most strange affair, that such endeavors should have

been made to impeach the purity, by at the same time degrading the

respectable character of the parish-curates, more particularly at a

period when, owing to partality and the scarcity of religious men,

it would have seemed more natural to uphold, and by new inducements

encourage the zeal and authority of the remaining few. This step

appears the more singular, I repeat, at a moment when, neither

by suspending the sending out of missionaries to China, and the

almost entire abandonment of the spiritual conquest of the Igorots

and other infidel tribes, inhabiting the interior of these islands,

have the above Spanish laborers been able to carry on the ordinary

administration, nor prevent entire provinces from being transferred,

as is now the case, into the hands of Indians and mestizo clergymen

of the Sangley race, who, through their great ignorance, corrupt

morals, and total want of decorum, universally incur the contempt

of the flocks committed to their care, and, in consequence of their

tyrannical conduct, cause the people to sigh for the mild yoke of

their ancient pastors.

[Friars bulwark of Spanish rule.] If, therefore, it is the wish of

the government to retain the subjection of this colony, and raise

it to the high degree of prosperity of which it is susceptible,

the first thing, in my opinion, that ought to be attended to is the

good organization of its spiritual administration. On this subject

we must not deceive ourselves. I again repeat, that as long as the

local government, in consequence of the want of military forces,

and owing to the scarcity of Europeans, does not in itself possess

the means of insuring obedience, no other alternative remains. It is

necessary to call in to its aid the powerful influence of religion,

and to obtain from the Peninsula fresh supplies of missionaries. As

in their nature the latter are essentially different from the other

public functionaries, it is well known they neither seek nor aspire to

any remuneration for their labors, their only hope being to obtain,

in the opinion of the community at large, that degree of respect to

which they justly consider themselves entitled. Let, therefore, their

pre-eminences be retained to them: let them be treated with decorum;

the care and direction of the Indians confided to their charge, and

they always be found united in support of justice and the legitimate

authority.

[Unwise to discredit priests.] Nothing is more unjust, and of nothing

have the spiritual directors of the provinces so much reason to

complain, than the little discernment with which they have sometimes

been judged and condemned, by causing the misconduct of some of their

individual members to affect the whole body. Hence is it that no one

can read without shame and indignation, the insidious suggestions and

allusions, derogatory to their character, contained in the Regulations

of Government framed at Manila in the year 1758, and which although

modified by orders of the king, are at the present moment still in

force, owing to the want of others, and found in a printed form in

the hands of every one. Granting that in some particular instances,

real causes of complaint might have existed, yet in the end, what

does it matter if here and there a religious character has abused

the confidence reposed in him, as long as the spirit by which the

generality of them are actuated, corresponds to the sanctity of their

state, and is besides conformable to the views of government? Why

should we be eternally running after an ideal of perfection which

can never be met with? Nor, indeed, is this necessary in the present

construction of society.

[Testimony in their behalf] If, however, any weight is to be attached

to imposture with which, from personal motives, attempts have been

made to obscure the truth, and prejudice the public mind against

the regular clergy; or, if the just defense on which I have entered,

should be attributed to partiality or visionary impressions, let the

Archives of the Colonial Department be opened, and we shall there

find the report drawn up by order of the king on November 26, 1804, by

the governor of the Philippine Islands, Don Rafael Maria de Aguilar,

with a view to convey information regarding the enquiries at that

time instituted respecting the reduction of the inhabitants of the

Island of Mindoro; a report extremely honorable to the regular clergy,

and dictated by the experience that general had acquired during a

period of more than twelve years he had governed. Therein also will

be seen the answer to the consultation addressed to his successor in

the command, Don Mariano Fernandez de Folgueras, under date of April

25, 1809, in which he most earnestly beseeches the king to endeavor,

by every possible means, to send out religious missionaries; deploring

the decline and want of order he had observed with his own eyes in the

towns administered by native clergymen, and pointing out the urgent

necessity of intrusting the spiritual government of these provinces

to the dexterous management of the former. Testimonies of such weight

are more than sufficient at once to refute the calumnies and contrary

opinions put forth on this subject, and at the same time serve as

irrefragable proofs of the scrupulous impartiality with which I have

endeavored to discuss so delicate a matter.

In a general point of view, I have alluded to the erroneous system,

which during the last few years has been pursued by the government

with regard to the parish-curates employed in the interior, and also

sufficiently pointed out the advantages reasonably to be expected

if the government, acting on a different policy, or rather guided

by other motives of state, instead of following the literal text

of our Indian legislation, should come to the firm determination of

indirectly divesting themselves of a small portion of their authority

in favor of the religious laborers who are acting on the spot. Having

said thus much, I shall proceed to such further details as are more

immediately connected with the present chapter.

[Ecclesiastical Organization.] The ecclesiastical jurisdiction is

exercised by the metropolitan archbishop of Manila, aided by the

three suffragans of Nueva Segovia, Nueva Caceres and Cebu.

The archbishopric of Manila comprehends the provinces of Tondo,

Bulacan, Pampanga, Bataan, Cavite, Laguna de Bay, Zambales, Batangas,

and the Island of Mindoro.

The bishopric of Nueva Segovia comprehends the province of Pangasinan,

the missions of Ituy and Paniqui, the provinces of Ilocos, Cagayan,

and the missions of the Batanes Islands.

That of Nueva Caceres comprehends the provinces of Tayabas, Nueva

Ecija, Camarines and Albay.

That of Cebu comprehends the Islands of Cebu and Bohol, Iloilo,

Capiz and Antique, in the Island of Panay, the Islands of La Paragua,

Negros and Samar, Misamis, Caraga and Zamboanga in that of Mindanao,

and the Mariana Islands.

The archbishop has a salary of $5,000 and the bishops $4,000 each. The

curacies exceed 500, and although all of them originally were in charge

of persons belonging to the religious orders, owing to the expulsion

of the Jesuits and the excessive scarcity of regular clergy, so many

native priests have gradually been introduced among them, that,

at present, nearly half the towns are under their direction. The

rest are administered by the religious orders of St. Augustine,

St. Dominic and St. Francis, in the following manner:

Towns.

The Augustinians 88

The barefooted Augustinians (Recoletos) 52

The Dominicans 57

The Franciscans 96

Total 293

It ought, however, to be observed, that since the detailed statement

was made out, from which the above extract has been taken, so many

members of the religious orders have died, that it has been necessary

to replace them in many towns with native clergymen, as a temporary

expedient, and till new missionaries shall arrive from Spain.

[Dual supervision over friars.] The monastic curates are immediately

subject to their provincial superior, in the character of friars but

depend on the diocesan bishop in their quality of parish priests; and

in like manner obey their own provincial vicars, as well as those of

the bishop. They are alternately eligible to the dignities of their

own order, and generally promoted, or relieved from their ministry,

at the discretion of the provincial chapter, or according to the final

determination of the vice-patron or bishop, affixed to the triple

list presented to him. Besides the ordinary obligations attached to

the care of souls, they are enjoined to assist at the elections of

governors and other officers of justice, in their respective towns,

in order to inform the chief magistrate respecting the aptitude of

the persons proposed for election on the triple lists, and to point

out the legal defects attributable to any of them. On this account,

they are not, however, allowed to interfere in the smallest degree

with any of these proceedings, and much less make a formal proposal,

as most assuredly would be advisable if permitted so to do, in favor

of any particular person or persons in their opinion fit for the

discharge of the above mentioned duties. It is their obligation to

ascertain the correctness of the tribute lists presented to them

for their examination and signature by the chief of the clans,

by carefully comparing them with the registers kept in their own

department; and also to certify the general returns, without which

requisite the statements transmitted by the chief magistrates to

the accountant-general's office are not admitted. Above all they

are bound to affix their signatures to the effective payments made

by the magistrate to their parishioners on account of daily labor,

and to certify similarly the value of materials employed in public

works. Besides the above, they are continually called upon to draw

up circumstantial reports, or declarations, required by the superior

tribunals; they receive frequent injunctions to co-operate in the

increase of the king's revenue and the encouragement of agriculture

and industry; in a word, there is scarcely a thing to which their

attention is not called, and to which it is not expected they should

contribute by their influence, directly or indirectly.

[Allowances from treasury.] The royal treasury pays them an annual

allowance equal to $180, in kind and money, for each five hundred

tributes under their care, and this, added to the emoluments of the

church, renders the total proceeds of a curacy generally equivalent

to about from six to eight reals for each entire tribute; but

from this allowance are to be deducted the expenses of coadjutors,

subsistence, servants, horses, and all the other charges arising

out of the administration of such wearisome duties; nor are the

parishioners under any other obligation than to provide the churches

with assistants, or sacristans and singers, and the curates with

provisions at tariff prices.

[Need of more European clergy.] Finally, as from what has been above

stated it would appear, that as many as five hundred religious persons

are necessary for the spiritual administration of the interior towns

and districts, besides the number requisite to do the duty and fill

the dignities of the respective orders and convents in the capital,

independent of which there ought to be a proportionate surplus,

applicable to the progressive reduction of the infidel tribes

inhabiting the uplands, as well as the preaching of the Gospel

in China and Cochinchina, most assuredly, it would be expedient

to assemble and keep together a body of no less than seven hundred

persons, if it is the wish of the government, on a tolerable scale, to

provide for the wants of these remote missions. At the present moment

the number does not exceed three hundred, including superannuated,

exempt from service, and lay-brothers, whilst the native clergymen

in effective possession of curacies, and including substitutes,

coadjutors and weekly preachers, exceed one thousand. And as the

latter, in general unworthy of the priesthood, are rather injurious

than really serviceable to the state, it should not be deemed unjust

if they were altogether deprived of the dignity of parish curates,

and only allowed to exercise their functions in necessary cases, or by

attaching them to the curacies in the quality of coadjutors. By this

plan, at the same time that the towns would be provided with suitable

and adequate ministers, the native clergymen would be distributed

in a proper manner and placed near the religious persons charged

to officiate, would acquire the necessary knowledge and decorum,

and in the course of time might obtain character and respect among

their countrymen.

To many, a measure of this kind may, in some respects, appear harsh

and arbitrary; but persons, practically acquainted with the subject

and country, will deem it indispensable, and the only means that

can be resorted to, in order to stop the rapid decline remarkable in

this interesting department of public administration. Fortunately,

no grounded objections can be alleged against it; nor is there any

danger of serious consequences resulting from the plan being carried

into effect. In vain would it be to argue that, if the reform is to

take place, a large number of priests would be reduced to beggary,

owing to the want of occupation; because, as things now stand, many of

the religious curates employ three or four coadjutors, and, no doubt,

they would then gladly undertake to make provision for the remainder

of those who may be thrown out of employment. On the other hand, with

equal truth it may be observed that the inhabitants of the interior,

far from regretting, or taking part on behalf of the native clergy,

would celebrate, as a day of gladness and rejoicing, the removal of

the latter, in return for their beloved Castilian Fathers.

[Restriction of native ordinations recommended.] In case the ideas

above suggested should be adopted in all their parts, it may be proper

to add that an injunction ought to be laid on the reverend bishops

in future to confer holy orders with more scrupulosity and economy,

than, unfortunately, heretofore has been the case; by representing to

them that, if, at certain periods the Popes have been influenced by

powerful reasons not to insist on ordinations taking place in Europe,

as was formerly the case, very weighty motives now equally urge the

government to decline, in the Philippine Islands, paying so much to

religious vocation, and to relax in the policy of raising the natives

to the dignity of the priesthood.

[Moro depredations.] Long have the inhabitants of the Philippines

deplored, and in vain remonstrated, against the ravages committed

on their coasts and settlements by the barbarous natives of the

Islands of Mindanao, Basilan and Jolo, as well as by the Malanos,

Ilanos and Tirone Moros and others; and there is nothing that so much

deserves the attention, and interests the honor of the Captain-General

commanding in this quarter, as an early and efficient attempt to check

and punish these cruel enemies. It is indeed true that, in the years

1636 and 1638, General Don Sebastian Hurtado de Corcuera, undertook in

person and happily carried into effect the reduction of the Sultan of

Mindanao and the conquest of the Island of Jolo, placing in the latter

a governor and establishing three military posts there; under the

protection of the garrisons of which, Christianity was considerably

extended. It is equally true, that on the subsequent abandonment of

this important acquisition, owing to the government being compelled to

attend to other urgent matters, the enemy acquired a greater degree of

audacity, and the captain-general in command afterwards sent armaments

to check his inroads. On one of these occasions, our troops obliged an

army of more than 5,000 Moros, who had closely beset the fortress of

Zamboanga, to raise the siege; and also in the years 1731 and 1734,

fresh detachments of our men were landed on the Islands of Jolo,

Capul and Basilan, and their success was followed by the destruction

and ruin of the fortified posts, vessels, and settlements of those

perfidious Mahometans. It is not, however, less certain that at the

periods above mentioned, the war was carried on rather from motives

of punishment and revenge, and suggested by a sudden and passing zeal,

than in conformity to any progressive and well-combined system. Since

then these laudable military enterprises have been entirely neglected,

as well on account of the indolence of some of the governors, as

the too great confidence placed in the protestations of friendship

and treaties of peace with which, from time to time, the Sultans

of Jolo and Mindanao have sought to lull them to sleep. Their want

of sincerity is proved by the circumstance of the piracies of their

respective subjects not ceasing, the chiefs sometimes feigning they

were carried on without their license or knowledge; and, at others,

excusing themselves on the plea of their inability to restrain the

insolence of the Tirones and other independent tribes. Nevertheless,

it is notorious that the above-mentioned sultans indirectly encouraged

the practice of privateering, by affording every aid in their power

to those who fitted out vessels, and purchasing from the pirates all

the Christians they captured and brought to them.

[A missionary's appeal.] Father Juan Angeles, superior of the mission

established in Jolo, at the request of Sultan Alimudin himself (or

Ferdinand I as he was afterwards unworthily called on being made a

Christian with no other view than the better to gain the confidence

of the Spaniards) in a report he sent to the government from the

above Island, under date of September 24, 1748, describing the

Sultan's singular artifices to amuse him and frustrate the object

of his mission, fully confirms all that has just been said, and,

on closing his report, makes use of the following remarkable words:

"When is it we shall have had enough of treaties with these Moros, for

have we not before us the experience of more than one hundred years,

during which period of time, they have not kept a single article

in any way burdensome to, or binding on, themselves? They will never

observe the conditions of peace, because their property consists in the

possession of slaves, and with them they traffic, the same as other

nations do with money. Sooner will the hawk release his prey from

his talons than they will put an end to their piracies. The cause of

their being still unfaithful to Spain arises out of this matter having

been taken up by fits and starts, and not in the serious manner it

ought to have been done. To make war on them, in an effectual manner,

fleets must not be employed, but they must be attacked on land, and

in their posts in the interior; for it is much more advisable at once

to spend ten with advantage and in a strenuous manner to attain an

important object than to lay out twenty by degrees and without fruit."

[Governmental lenience.] It is an undeniable fact that the government,

lulled and deceived by the frequent embassies and submissive and

crouching letters which those fawning sultans have been in the habit

of transmitting to them, instead of adopting the energetic measures

urged by the above-mentioned missionary, have constantly endeavored

to renew and secure the friendship of those chiefs, by means of

treaties and commercial relations; granting, with this view, ample

licenses to every one who ventured to ship merchandise to Jolo, and

winking at the traffic carried on by the governors of the fortress of

Zamboanga with the people of Mindanao; whilst the latter, on their

part, sporting with our foolish credulity, have never ceased waging

a most destructive war against us, by attacking our towns situated

on the coast, not even excepting those of the Island of Luzon. They

have sometimes carried their audacity so far as to show themselves

in the neighborhood of the capital itself, and at others taken up

their temporary residence in the district of Mindoro and in places

of the jurisdictions of Samar and Leyte; and in short, even dared

to form an establishment or general deposit for their plunder in the

Island of Buras, where they quietly remained during the years 1797,

1798 and 1799 to the great injury of our commerce and settlements.

[Authority for war not lacking.] This want of exertion to remedy evils

of so grievous a nature is the more to be deplored as the Philippine

governors have at all times been fully authorized to carry on war,

and promote the destruction of the Moros, under every sacrifice, and

especially by the royal orders and decrees of October 26, and November

1, 1758, and July 31, 1766, in all of which his majesty recommends,

in the most earnest manner, "the importance of punishing the audacity

of the barbarous infidels, his majesty being desirous that, in order

to maintain his subjects of the Philippines free from the piracies and

captivity they so frequently experience, no expenses or pains should

be spared; it being further declared, that as this is an object deeply

affecting the conscience of his majesty, he especially enjoins the

aforesaid government to observe his order; and finally, with a view

to provide for the exigencies arising out of similar enterprises,

the viceroy of New Spain is instructed to attend to the punctual

remittance, not only of the usual "situado," or annual allowance,

but also of the additional sum of $70,000 in the first and succeeding

years, etc." In a word, our monarchs, Ferdinand VI and Carlos III,

omitted nothing that could in any way promote so important an object;

whether it is that the governors have disregarded such repeated orders

from the sovereigns, or mistaken the means by which they were to be

carried into effect, certain it is that the unhappy inhabitants of

the Philippines have continued to be witnesses, and at the same time

the victims of the culpable apathy of those who have successively

held the command of these Islands within the last fifty or sixty years.

[Native efforts for self-defence.] Abandoned therefore to their own

resources, and from time to time relieved by the presence of a few

gunboats which, after scouring the coasts, have never been able

to come up with the light and fast sailing vessels of the enemy,

the inhabitants of our towns and settlements have been under the

necessity of intrenching and fortifying themselves in the best way

they were able, by opening ditches and planting a breastwork of stakes

and palisades, crowned with watch towers, or a wooden or stone castle;

precautions which sometimes are not sufficient against the nocturnal

irruptions and robberies of the Moros, more especially when they come

with any strength and fire-arms, in general scarce among the natives.

[Moro piratical craft.] The pancos, or prows, used by the Moros, are

light and simple vessels, built with numerous thin planks and ribs,

with a small draft of water; and being manned by dexterous rowers,

they appear and disappear from the horizon with equal celerity, flying

or attacking, whenever they can do it with evident advantage. Some

of those vessels are large, and fitted out with fifty, a hundred,

and sometimes two hundred men. The shots of their scanty and defective

artillery are very uncertain, because they generally carry their guns

suspended in slings; but they are to be dreaded, and are extremely

dexterous in the management of the campilan, or sword, of which they

wear the blades long and well tempered. When they have any attack

of importance in view, they generally assemble to the number of

two hundred galleys, or more, and even in their ordinary cruises,

a considerable number navigate together. As dread and the scarcity

of inhabitants in the Bisayan Islands cause great ranges of the coast

to be left unsettled, it is very easy for the Moros to find numerous

lurking-places and strongholds whenever they are pressed, and their

constant practice, in these cases, is to enter the rivers, ground

their vessels, and hide them among the mangroves and thick foliage,

and fly with their arms to the mountains, thus almost always laughing

at the efforts of their opponents, who seldom venture to follow them

into the thickets and morasses, where the musket is of no use and a

single step cannot be taken with any security.

[Outrages suffered.] The fatal consequences and ravages of this system

of cruising and warfare round the Islands are incalculable. Besides

plundering and burning the towns and settlements, these bloody

pirates put the old and helpless to the sword, destroy the cattle

and plantations, and annually carry off to their own homes as many as

a thousand captives of both sexes, who, if they are poor and without

hopes of being redeemed, are destined to drag out a miserable existence

amidst the most fatiguing and painful labor, sometimes accompanied

with torments. Such is the dread and apprehension of these seas that

only those navigate and carry on trade in them who are able to arm and

man their vessels in a way corresponding to the great risks they have

to run, or others whom want compels to disregard the imminent dangers

which await them. Among the latter class, the Bisayans, or "painted

(tattooed) natives," are distinguished, an extremely warlike people of

whom great use might be made. Reared from their infancy amidst danger

and battle, and greatly resembling the Moros in their features and

darkness of skin, they are equally alike in the agility with which

they manage the long sword and lance, and such is the courage and

implacable odium with which they treat their enemies that, if not taken

by surprise, they sell their lives very dear, sacrificing themselves

in a most heroic manner, rather than to be led away as captives.

In order, however, that a more correct idea may be formed of the

wicked policy and atrocious disposition of these Moros, and with a

view to do away with the misconceptions of those who are of opinion

that incentives to trade, and other slow and indirect means ought

to be employed for the purpose of overcoming them, it will suffice

to quote the following examples among a number of others, even more

recent ones, which might equally be brought forward.

[Instances of treachery.] In 1796, the governor of Zamboanga

dispatched, with regular passports and under a safe conduct obtained

from the Sultan of Mindanao, Lieutenant Don Pantaleon Arcillas,

with a sergeant, eight men, and a guide, in order to bring into

the fortress the cattle belonging to the king's farm, which had

strayed away and got up in the lands of the above-mentioned Mahometan

prince. Five days after their departure, whilst the lieutenant was

taking his meals at the house of a "Datu," or chief, named Oroncaya,

he was suddenly surrounded by seventy Moros, who, seizing upon him,

bound him to a tree and then flayed him alive, from the forehead to

the ankle. In this miserable and defenceless situation, the barbarous

"Datu" wreaked his vengeance on his body by piercing it all over

with his "kris," or dagger, and then ordered his skin to be hung up

on the pole of one of his ferocious banners.

In the year 1798, whilst the schooner San José lay at anchor at

Tabitabi, near Jolo, the sons-in-law and nephews of the sultan went

out to meet her in two large prows, exhibiting at the same time every

demonstration of peace, and, sending forward a small vessel with

refreshments, they invited the captain to come on board of them. The

latter, deceived by the apparent frankness and high rank of the Moros,

with the greatest good faith accepted the invitation, and proceeded on

board, accompanied by two sailors, with a view to make arrangements

for barter. Scarcely had they got on board of the large prow, when

they were surrounded and seized, and the captain, who was a Spaniard,

compelled to sign an order to his mate to deliver up the schooner,

which he reluctantly did, under the hope of saving his own and his

companions' lives. The Moros proceeded on board the Spanish vessel,

and, in the meantime, the two sailors were taken back to the boat,

and there killed with daggers in the presence of all. The schooner's

sails were next hoisted, and she was brought into Jolo, where the cargo

and crew were sold in sight of, and with the knowledge and consent of

the sultan; an atrocity for which he has always refused to give any

satisfaction to a nation, thus openly and barbarously outraged by his

own relatives, and in defiance of the existing treaties of peace. Such

is the cruel character, and such the execrable policy of the Moros

generally inhabiting the Islands situated in the Philippine seas.

[Growth of Moro power.] The most lamentable circumstance is, that

these infidel races, at all times to be dreaded, owing to their

numbers and savage ferocity, after the lapse of a century of almost

uninterrupted prosperity, and encouraged also by our inattention,

have at length gradually attained so formidable a degree of power,

that their reduction now must be considered an extremely arduous and

expensive enterprise, although an object urgently requisite, and worthy

of the greatness of a nation like ours. In order, however, that the

difficulties of so important an undertaking may be justly appreciated,

it may be proper to observe that the Island of Mindanao alone, at

the present moment, contains a population equal, if not larger, than

that of Luzon, and the margins of the immense lake, situated in its

center, are covered with well-built towns, filled with conveniences,

the fruits of their annual privateering, and of the traffic they

carry on with the inhabitants of the Island of Jolo. True it is,

and it may be said, equally fortunate, that they are greatly divided

into parties, subject to a variety of "datus," or independent chiefs,

in name only inferior to the one who styles himself the sultan of the

whole Island. As, however, the fortresses and districts of Caraga,

Misamis, and Zamboanga occupy nearly three parts of the circumference

of the Island, these Moros freely possess no more than the southern

part, commencing at about twenty-five leagues from Cape San Augustin,

and ending in the vicinity of Zamboanga; so that the largest number

of their naval armaments are fitted out and issued to sea, either by

the great river of Mindanao, or from some of the many bays and inlets

situated on the above extent of coast.

[Jolo.] The Island of Jolo, although small compared with that of

Mindanao, is, nevertheless, in itself the most important, as well

as the real hotbed of all the piracies committed. Its inhabitants,

according to the unanimous reports of captives and various merchants,

in skill and valor greatly exceed the other Mahometans who infest

these seas. The sultan is absolute, and his subjects carry on trade

with Borneo, Celebes, and the other Malayan tribes scattered about

this great Archipelago. In the port of Jolo, as already noticed,

sales are made of Christians captured by the other Moros. The Chinese

of Amoy, as well as the Dutch and British, carry them manufactured

goods, opium and arms, receiving, in return, black pepper, bees'

wax, balato, edible nests, tortoise-shell, mother-of-pearl, gold

dust, pearls, etc., and from Manila also a vessel usually goes once

a year with goods; but all act with the greatest precaution in this

dangerous traffic, guarding, as much as possible, against the insidious

acts of that perfidious government. The great number of renegades,

of all casts, who have successively naturalized themselves there;

the abundance of arms, and the prevailing opulence, have, in every

respect, contributed to render this Island a formidable and powerful

state. The capital is surrounded with forts and thick walls, and

the famous heights, standing near it, in case of emergency, afford a

secure asylum where the women can take refuge and the treasures of

the sultan and public be deposited, whilst in the plains below the

contest may be maintained by more than 50,000 combatants, already

very dexterous in the use of the musket and of a bold and courageous

character. The navy of these Islanders is also very respectable,

for, besides a great number of smaller prows and war-boats, they

have some of a large size, capable of carrying heavy artillery on

their decks, mounted on corresponding carriages, and not suspended

in slings as is the custom of the people of Mindanao. In a word,

Jolo is an Island governed by a system of administration extremely

vigorous and decisive; dread and superstition sustain the throne of

the tyrant, and the fame of his greatness frequently brings to his

feet the ulemas, or missionaries of the Koran, even as far as from

the furthest margin of the Red Sea. The prince and people, unanimous

in the implacable odium with which they view all Christians, cannot

be divided or kept on terms of peace; and if it is really wished to

free these seas from the evils and great dangers with which they are

at all times threatened, it is necessary at once to strike at the

root, by landing and attacking the Jolonese in their strongholds,

and break the charm by which they are held together.

This, at least, is the constant and unshaken opinion of all

experienced persons and those versed in Philippine affairs; and if,

by the substantial reasons and existing circumstances, I convince

myself sufficiently to openly recommend war to be undertaken against

the Moros and pushed with the utmost vigor, and more particularly

commencing the work by a formal invasion of Jolo; still, as I feel

myself incompetent to trace a precise plan, or to discuss the minute

details more immediately connected with the object, I feel it necessary

to confine myself to the pointing out, in general terms, of the means

I judge most conducive to the happy issue of so arduous but important

an enterprise, leaving the rest to more able and experienced hands.

[Council of war recommended.] As a previous step, I conceive that

a council of war ought to be formed in Manila, composed of the

captain-general, the commanders of the navy, artillery, and engineer

department, as well as of the regular corps, who, in conformity to

all the antecedent information lodged in the secretary's office for

the captain-generalship, and the previous report of some one of the

ex-governors of Zamboanga and the best informed missionaries, may be

enabled to deliberate and proceed on to a mature examination of the

whole affair, taking into their special consideration everything

regarding Jolo, its early reduction, the number of vessels and

men required for this purpose, the most advantageous points of

attack, and the best season in which this can be carried into

execution. After all these matters have been determined upon, the

operation in question ought to be connected with the other partial

and general arrangements of the government, in order that a plan the

best adapted to localities and existing circumstances may be chosen,

and without its being necessary to wait for the king's approbation

of the means resolved upon, owing to the distance of the court and

the necessity of acting with celerity. If, however, on account of

the deference in every respect due to the sovereign, it should be

thought proper to reconcile his previous sanction with the necessity

of acting without loss of time, the best mode would be to send from

Spain an officer of high rank, fully authorized, who, as practised

on other occasions, might give his sanction, in the name of the king,

to the resolutions adopted by the council of war, and take under his

own immediate charge, if it should be so deemed expedient, the command

of the expedition against Jolo, receiving the appointment of governor

of the Island, as soon as the conquest should be carried into effect,

as a just reward for his zeal and valor.

[War popular in Philippines.] Supposing an uniformity of opinions to

prevail with regard to the expediency of attempting the subjugation

of Jolo, and supposing also the existence of the necessary funds to

meet the expenses of a corresponding armament, it may be positively

relied upon that the project would be extremely popular, and meet

with the entire concurrence and support of the Philippine Islands. The

military men, aware of the great riches known to exist in the proposed

theatre of operations, would emulously come forward to offer their

services, under a hope of sharing the booty, and the warlike natives

of the Bisayas would be impelled on by their hatred to the Moros,

and their ardent wishes to avenge the blood of their fathers and

children. On the other hand, the abundance of regular and well

disciplined officers and troops, at present in the colony and the

number of gun-boats found in the ports, a want of which, on other

occasions, has always been experienced, will afford ample scope for

the equipment of a force competent to the important enterprise in

view. In fact, if the operation is arranged in a systematic manner,

and all the precautions and rules observed as are usual in cases of

attacks premeditated against European and civilized establishments,

there is no reason to expect any other than a flattering and decisive

result, since, in reality, the whole would be directed against an

enemy contemptible on account of his barbarism and his comparative

ignorance of the art of war.

[Native assistance.] The preparations deemed necessary being made in

Manila, and the Bisayan auxiliaries assembled beforehand in Zamboanga,

with their arms and respective chiefs, the whole of the operation

in question, it may be safely said, might be terminated within the

period of three or four months. Supposing even 2,000 regular troops

are destined for this expedition, with a corresponding train of field

pieces, and at the moment there should not be found in the Islands a

sufficient number of larger vessels to embargo or freight for their

conveyance, a competent quantity of coasters, galleys and small craft

might be met with at any time sufficiently capacious and secure to

carry the men. This substitute will be found the less inconvenient,

because, as the navigation is to be performed among the Islands during

the prevalence of the north winds, usually a favorable and steady

season of the year, the voyage will consequently be safe and easy. It

will also be possible to arrive at the point agreed upon, as a general

rendezvous, in twenty, or five-and-twenty days, which place, for many

reasons, ought to be the fortress of Zamboanga, situated in front of

Jolo and at moderate distance from that Island; it being from this port

that, in former times, the Philippine governors usually sent out their

armaments, destined to make war against the Basilanese and Jolonese.

[Mindanao also needs attention.] As soon as this important and

memorable enterprise has been carried into effect, and the punishment

and total subjugation of these faithless Mahometans completed and

the new conquest placed under a military authority, in the mean

time that the lands are distributing and arrangements making to

establish the civil administration, on the same plan followed in the

other provinces of the Philippine government, the armament ought to

return to Zamboanga with all possible speed; but, after stopping by

the way to reduce the small island of Basilan and leaving a fortress

and garrison there. Immediately afterwards, and before the various

tribes of Moros inhabiting the Island of Mindanao have been able to

concert among themselves and prepare for their defence, it would

be advisable to direct partial expeditions towards both flanks of

Zamboanga, for the purpose of burning the settlements of the natives

and driving them from the shores into the interior. Forts ought then

to be raised at the mouths of the inlets and rivers, and a fourth

district government formed in the southern part of the island; in such

manner that, by possession being taken of the coasts, the government

and district of Zamboanga may be placed in contact with the new

one established on the one side, and on the other with the district

of Misamis, also the new district with that of Caraga, the western

part of which territory is already united to that of Misamis. Such,

at least, was the opinion of Lieutenant-Colonel Don Mariano Tobias,

an officer deservedly celebrated for his prudence and consummate skill

in these matters, and this he substantially expressed in a council

of war, held on August 28, 1778, for the purpose of deliberating on

the most advisable means to check the Moros, as appears by a long

and intelligent report drawn upon this subject on April 26, 1800,

by the adjutant-general of this colony, Don Rufino Suarez.

In case it should be determined to adopt the means proposed by Colonel

Tobias, for the purpose of holding the Moros of Mindanao in check,

and to which, unfortunately, due regard has not hitherto been paid,

notwithstanding the enterprise presents very few difficulties, owing

to the little opposition to be expected from the infidel natives,

the latter would then be left completely surrounded and shut up in

the heart of the island, and their active system of privateering,

with which they have so many years infested these seas, entirely

destroyed. If, through the want of garrisons and population, it should

not, however, be possible to deprive them of all their outlets, by

which means they would still be able occasionally to send some of

their cruising vessels, nevertheless there would be facilities with

which it would be possible to pursue and counteract the ravages of

the few pirates who might furtively escape out of some river, while

now they are fitted out, and well manned and armed to the number of

one and two hundred war-boats, openly in their ports.

[A plan for future policing.] After the emporiums of slavery have

been destroyed by the conquest of Jolo, and the other general

measures adopted, as above pointed out, the government would then

be in a situation to turn its attention, with much greater ease,

to the arrangement of all the other minor schemes of precaution and

protection suited to the difference of circumstances and locality,

without the concurrence of which the work would be left imperfect,

and in some degree the existence of those settled in the new

establishments rendered precarious. As, however, I am unprepared

minutely to point out the nature of these measures, or distinctly

to lay down a ground-work for future civilization and improvement,

I shall merely observe, that what would then remain to be done would

neither require any great capital, or present obstacles which might

not easily be overcome. The Moros being then concentrated in the

Island of Mindanao, and this completely surrounded on all sides by our

forts and settlements, in the manner above described, the only enemies

let loose on these seas would be either the few who might, from time

to time, elude the vigilance of our troops and district-commanders,

or those who might have escaped from Jolo previous to its conquest,

and taken up their abode in one or other of the Bisayas Islands; or,

in short, such as are out cruising at the time our armament returns

to Zamboanga and takes possession of the southern coast of Mindanao;

in which case they would be compelled to resort to a roving life,

establishing, like the Jolo fugitives, temporary dwellings among the

mangroves and thickets bordering on the shore.

The principal objects then remaining for the attention of government

would be to guard and protect the towns and settlements established

on the coasts from the insults and inroads of banditti, impelled by

necessity or despair, and at the same time to promote the gradual

overthrow or civilization of the dispersed remnant of Moorish

population left in the Island. The cruising of the pirates being

thus reduced to a space comprehended in an oblong circle formed by

an imaginary line drawn from the southern extreme of the Island of

Leyte, to the south-west point of Samar, which next running along

the north-west coast of Mindoro, on the outside of Tacao and Burias,

and coming down to the west of Panay, Negros and Bohol, closes the

oval at the little island formed by the Strait of Panaon, about forty

gunboats might be advantageously stationed in the narrowest passages

from land to land; as, for example, in the Strait of San Juanico and

other passes of a similar kind, well known to the local pilots. By this

means, the limits would be gradually contracted. Various small naval

armaments ought, at the same time, to keep cruising in the center

of this circle, pursuing the Moros by sea and land, dislodging them

from their strongholds and lurking places, and sending on those who

might be captured to the depot pointed out by government.

[Feasibility of plans.] The first part of the plan would be the

more easily realized, as it is well-known that most of the districts

corresponding to the Bisayan tribes, including those of Camarines and

Albay, situated at the extremity of the island of Luzon, have several

gunboats of their own, which might be used with great advantage. By

merely advancing and stationing them in such channels as the Moros

must necessarily pass, either in going out or returning, according to

the different monsoons, they would easily be checked, without removing

the gunboats to any great distance from their own coasts. As besides

the great advantages resulting from this plan and every one doing

his duty are apparent, no doubt numbers of natives would volunteer

their services, more particularly if they were liberally rewarded,

and their maintenance provided from the funds of the respective

communities. Moreover, the points which at first should not be

considered as sufficiently guarded might be strengthened by the king's

gunboats, and, indeed, in all of them it would be advisable to station

some of the latter, commanded by a select officer, to whose orders

the captains of the provincial gunboats ought to be made subservient.

With regard to the second part, it will suffice to observe that the

captain-generalship of the Philippine Islands already possesses as

many as seventy gunboats, besides a considerable number of gallies

and launches, which altogether constitute a formidable squadron

of light vessels; and, after deducting those deemed necessary for

the protection of Jolo and the new province to be established in

Mindanao, a sufficient number would still be left to carry into

execution all the objects proposed. At present, although the Moros

navigate in numerous divions, and with a confidence inspired by their

undisturbed prosperity, a 24-pounder shot from one of our launches is

nevertheless sufficient to put them to flight; what therefore may not

be expected when their forces shall be so greatly diminished and their

apprehensions increased, of being defeated and captured? Nevertheless,

as it is not easy for our gunboats to come up with them, when giving

chase, it would be advisable to add to our cruisers a temporary

establishment of prows and light vessels, manned by Bisayan Indians,

which, by advancing on with the gallies, might attack the enemy and

give time for the gunboats to come up and decide the action. Besides as

the Bisayan Indians are perfectly acquainted with the mode of making

war on the Moros, the meaning of their signals and manoeuvers and

the kind of places on shore in which they take shelter when pursued

at sea, the employment of such auxiliaries would be extremely useful.

[Need of undivided leadership.] The whole of these defensive and

offensive arrangements would, however, be ineffectual or incomplete

in their results, if the most perfect union and concert is not

established in every part, so that all should conspire to the same

object, although by distinct means. In order therefore that the

necessary harmony may be secured, it would be expedient to remove the

chief authority nearer to the theater of war, by confiding all the

necessary instructions and powers to the person who might be selected

for the direction and command of the enterprise, after the general

plan of operations had been regularly approved. Under this impression,

and with a view to the better execution of all the details, it would

be advisable for the commanding officer, named by the government,

to take up his headquarters in the Island of Panay, which, owing to

its geographical situation, the great number of towns and inhabitants

contained in the three provinces into which it is divided, as well

as other political reasons, is generally esteemed preferable for the

object in question, to the Island of Zebu, where, in former times,

the commanders of the province of the painted natives resided,

as mentioned in the laws of the Indies. The center of action being

placed in Iloilo, a communication with the other points would thus

more easily be kept open, aid and relief might be sent more rapidly

to the quarter where required, and, in a word, all the movements,

of whatsoever kind they might be, would be executed with greater

precision and certainty of success. It would be unnecessary to

add that the provincial magistrates of Camarines and Albay ought to

co-operate, with their fourteen gunboats and other smaller vessels, in

the measures adopted by the commander of the Bisayan establishment,

distributing their forces according to the orders given by him,

and by undertaking to guard the straits of San Bernardino.

[Paragua.] The Island of Paragua, at the head of which the

provincial jurisdiction of Calamianes is placed, is not included

in the great circle, or chain of stations, above traced out, as

well in consequence of its great distance from the other islands,

for which reason it is not so much infested by the Moros, as because

of its being at present nearly depopulated and uncultivated, and for

these reasons the attention of government ought not to be withdrawn

from other more important points. With regard to that of Mindanao,

the necessity of keeping up along the whole of its immense coast, a

line of castles and watch towers, has already been fully pointed out,

more especially in the vicinity of the bay of Panguil, to the north,

and the mouths of the great river towards the south; the two points

in which the enemies' most formidable armaments are usually fitted

out. Consequently, it would not be possible to expect the provincial

commanders stationed there would be able to disengage any part of

their naval force, in order to place it at the disposal of the officer

commanding the Bisayan vessels. Indeed, it is obvious that it would be

extremely important to afford the people of Mindanao every possible

additional aid, in vessels, troops and money, in order the better to

check the sailing of partial divisions of the enemy, and thus prevent

the immense number of pirates, inhabiting the interior of the island,

from breaking the fortified line, and again covering these seas, and

with redoubled fury carrying death and desolation along all the coasts.

It would, in fact, be extremely desirable if, through the concerted

measures and constant vigilance of the four chief magistrates

intrusted with the command of the island, the future attempts of

the Mindanayans could be entirely counteracted, and their cruisers

altogether kept within the line for a certain period of years; as by

thus depriving them of the facilities to continue their old habits

of life, these barbarous tribes would be eventually compelled to

adopt other pursuits, either by ascending the mountainous parts of

the island, and shutting themselves up in the thick and impenetrable

forests, with a view to preserve their independence; or, throwing

down their arms and devoting themselves to the peaceful cultivation

of their lands. In the latter case, they would gradually lose their

present ferocious character; their regard for the conveniences and

repose of social life would increase; the contrast would be attended

with most favorable consequences, and in the course of time, the whole

of the aboriginal natives of these islands would come into our laws

and customs, and become confounded in the general mass of Philippine

subjects, owing allegiance to the king.

Finally, it must be equally acknowledged that the Islands of Jolo,

Basilan, Capul, and some of the other inferior ones, of which,

as above pointed out, an union ought to be formed in the way of an

additional government, subordinate to the captain-general, would be

able to co-operate in the war on no other plan than the one traced

out for the provinces held in Mindanao; that is, by their gunboats

being confided to the protection of their own coasts; though with

this difference, that if, in one instance, the main object would be

to prevent the evasion of the enemy, in the other every effort must

be employed to guard against and repel their incursions when they

do appear. However complete the success of the armament, destined

for the reduction of Jolo, it may nevertheless be presumed, that the

mountains would still continue to give shelter to hordes of fugitives,

who would take refuge in the fastnesses, and avail themselves of every

opportunity to concert plans, or fly off to join their comrades in

Mindanao, in order to return, and through their aid, satisfy their

thirst for vengeance, by surprising some fortress or settlement,

or establishing themselves on some neglected and not well known

point. In consequence of this, the governor, commanding there,

would at first require the active co-operation of all his forces,

for the purpose of consolidating the new conquest, and causing his

authority to be respected throughout the island.

[Importance of peace for Philippine progress.] These, in my opinion,

are the true and secure means by which the enemies of the peace

and prosperity of the Philippines may be humbled, their piracies

prevented, and a basis laid for the future civilization of the

remaining islands in this important Archipelago. To this sketch,

a number of other details and essential illustrations, no doubt,

are wanting; and possibly, I may be accused of some inaccuracies, in

discussing a topic, with which I candidly avow I cannot be considered

altogether familiar. The plan and success of the enterprise must,

however, greatly depend on military skill and talent; but as I have

attempted no more than fairly to trace the general outline of the

plan, and insist on the necessity of its adoption, my remarks, it

is to be hoped, will serve to awaken a serious disposition to review

and investigate the whole subject, a task that most assuredly ought

to be confided to a competent and special council. Whatever defects

I may involuntarily have fallen into, will then be corrected; at the

same time it ought not to appear strange that inexperienced persons

should presume to speak on matters connected with the public good,

when we see them so much neglected by those whose more immediate duty

it is to look after and promote them. At all events, dispassionate

zeal has seldom done harm; and I again repeat, that my wish is not

so much to see my own ideas adopted, as to urge the necessity of

their being examined and digested. I am desirous that other sources

of information on this subject should be explored, that practical men

should be called in, and that those in power should be induced to apply

themselves and devote their exertions to an object so highly deserving

of their attention. In short, I am anxious that the pious injunctions

of our monarchs should be fulfilled, and that the tears and blood of

the inhabitants of these neglected islands should cease to flow.

Should the happy day ever arrive, when the inhabitants of these

provinces shall behold themselves free from the cruel scourge with

which they have been desolated for so many years, they will bless the

nation that has redeemed them from all their cares, they will tighten

their relations with it, and deliver themselves up to its direction

without reserve. The natives will then come down from the strong

fastnesses they at present inhabit; they will clear fresh lands, and

earnestly devote themselves to tillage and industry. Under the shadow

of peace, population and commerce will increase; the Bisayan vessels

will then plough the ocean without the dread of other enemies than

the elements; and the Moros themselves of Mindanao (I say it with

confidence), straightened on all sides, and incessantly harassed

by the Christians, but on the other hand witnessing the advantages

and mildness of our laws, will at length submit to the dominion of

the monarchs of Spain, who will thus secure the quiet possession of

one of the most interesting portions of the habitable globe, and be

justly entitled to the gratitude of all nations connected with China

and India, for having put an end to a series of the most terrific

plunder and captivity that ever disgraced the annals of any age.

PART III

Manila in 1842

By Com. Charles Wilkes, U.S.N.

(Narrative of U. S. Exploring Expedition, Vol. V, Chaps. 8 and 9.)

[Port rules.] At daylight, on January 13, we were again under way,

with a light air, and at nine o'clock reached the roadstead, where we

anchored in six fathoms water, with good holding-ground. Being anxious

to obtain our letters, which, we were informed at Oahu, had been sent

to Manila, I immediately dispatched two boats to procure them. On

their way to the mole, they were stopped by the captain of the port,

Don Juan Salomon, who requested them, in a polite manner, to return,

and informed the officers that, agreeably to the rules of the port,

no boat was permitted to land until the visit of the health-officer

had been made, etc.

[Official courtesies.] The captain of the port, in a large barge,

was soon seen pulling off in company with the boats. He boarded us

with much ceremony, and a few moments sufficed to satisfy him of

the good health of the crew, when he readily gave his assent to

our visiting the shore. Every kind of assistance was offered me,

on the part of the government, and he, in the most obliging manner,

gave us permission to go and come when we pleased, with the simple

request that the boats should wear our national flag, that they might

at all times be known, and thus be free from any interruption by the

guards. The boats were again dispatched for the consul and letters,

and after being anxiously watched for, returned; every one on board

ship expecting his wishes to be gratified with news from home; but,

as is usual on such occasions, the number of the happy few bore no

comparison to that of the many who were disappointed.

Our vice-consul, Josiah Moore, Esq., soon paid us a visit, and gave

us a pressing invitation to take up our quarters on shore while we

remained. To this gentleman and Mr. Sturges I am greatly indebted for

much of the information that will be detailed in the following chapter.

[American hemp ships.] A number of vessels were lying in the roads,

among which were several Americans loading with hemp. There was also a

large English East Indiaman, manned by Lascars, whose noise rendered

her more like a floating Bedlam than any thing else to which I can

liken it.

[A Spanish oriental city.] The view of the city and country around

Manila partakes both of a Spanish and an Oriental character. The

sombre and heavy-looking churches, with their awkward towers; the long

lines of batteries mounted with heavy cannon; the massive houses,

with ranges of balconies; and the light and airy cottage, elevated

on posts, situated in the luxuriant groves of tropical trees--all

excite a desire to become better acquainted with the country.

[Surroundings.] Manila is situated on an extensive plain, gradually

swelling into distant hills, beyond which, again, mountains rise in

the back ground to the height of several thousand feet. The latter

are apparently clothed with vegetation to their summits. The city is

in strong contrast to this luxuriant scenery, bearing evident marks

of decay, particularly in the churches, whose steeples and tile roofs

have a dilapidated look. The site of the city does not appear to have

been well chosen, it having apparently been selected entirely for

the convenience of commerce, and the communication that the outlet

of the lake affords for the batteaux that transport the produce from

the shores of the Laguna de Bay to the city.

[Canals.] There are many arms or branches to this stream, which have

been converted into canals; and almost any part of Manila may now be

reached in a banca.

In the afternoon, in company with Captain Hudson, I paid my first visit

to Manila. The anchorage considered safest for large ships is nearly

three miles from the shore, but smaller vessels may lie much nearer,

and even enter the canal; a facility of which a number of these take

advantage, to accomplish any repairs they may have occasion to make.

[Typhoons.] The canal, however, is generally filled with coasting

vessels, batteaux from the lake, and lighters for the discharge of

the vessels lying in the roads. The bay of Manila is safe, excepting

during the change of the monsoons, when it is subject to the typhoons

of the China Seas, within whose range it lies. These blow at times with

much force, and cause great damage. Foreign vessels have, however,

kept this anchorage, and rode out these storms in safety; but native

as well as Spanish vessels, seek at these times the port of Cavite,

about three leagues to the southwest, at the entrance of the bay,

which is perfectly secure. Here the government dockyard is situated,

and this harbor is consequently the resort of the few gunboats and

galleys that are stationed here.

[Twin piers.] The entrance to the canal or river Pasig is three hundred

feet wide, and is enclosed between two well-constructed piers, which

extend for some distance into the bay. On the end of one of these is

the light-house, and on the other a guard-house. The walls of these

piers are about four feet above ordinary high water, and include the

natural channel of the river, whose current sets out with some force,

particularly when the ebb is making in the bay.

[Suburbs.] The suburbs, or Binondo quarter, contain more inhabitants

than the city itself, and is the commercial town. They have all the

stir and life incident to a large population actively engaged in trade,

and in this respect the contrast with the city proper is great.

[Walled city.] The city of Manila is built in the form of a large

segment of a circle, having the chord of the segment on the river:

the whole is strongly fortified, with walls and ditches. The houses

are substantially built after the fashion of the mother country. Within

the walls are the governor's palace, custom-house, treasury, admiralty,

several churches, convents, and charitable institutions, a university,

and the barracks for the troops; it also contains some public squares,

on one of which is a bronze statue of Charles IV.

The city is properly deemed the court residence of these islands; and

all those attached to the government, or who wish to be considered as

of the higher circle, reside here; but foreigners are not permitted

to do so. The houses in the city are generally of stone, plastered,

and white or yellow washed on the outside. They are only two stories

high, and in consequence cover a large space, being built around a

patio or courtyard.

[Dwellings.] The ground-floors are occupied as storehouses,

stables, and for porters' lodges. The second story is devoted to

the dining-halls and sleeping apartments, kitchens, bath-rooms,

etc. The bed-rooms have the windows down to the floor, opening on wide

balconies, with blinds or shutters. These blinds are constructed with

sliding frames, having small squares of two inches filled in with

a thin semi-transparent shell, a species of Placuna; the fronts of

some of the houses have a large number of these small lights, where

the females of the family may enjoy themselves unperceived.

[Business.] After entering the canal, we very soon found ourselves

among a motley and strange population. On landing, the attention is

drawn to the vast number of small stalls and shops with which the

streets are lined on each side, and to the crowds of people passing

to and fro, all intent upon their several occupations. The artisans in

Manila are almost wholly Chinese; and all trades are local, so that in

each quarter of the Binondo suburb the privilege of exclusive occupancy

is claimed by some particular kinds of shops. In passing up the

Escolta (which is the longest and main street in this district), the

cabinet-makers, seen busily at work in their shops, are first met with;

next to these come the tinkers and blacksmiths; then the shoe-makers,

clothiers, fishmongers, haberdashers, etc. These are flanked by outdoor

occupations; and in each quarter are numerous cooks, frying cakes,

stewing, etc., in movable kitchens; while here and there are to be

seen betel-nut sellers, either moving about to obtain customers,

or taking a stand in some great thoroughfare. The moving throng,

composed of carriers, waiters, messengers, etc., pass quietly and

without any noise: they are generally seen with the Chinese umbrella,

painted in many colors, screening themselves from the sun. The whole

population wear slippers, and move along with a slipshod gait.

The Chinese are apparently far more numerous than the Malays, and the

two races differ as much in character as in appearance: one is all

activity, while the other is disposed to avoid all exertion. They

preserve their distinctive character throughout, mixing but very

little with each other, and are removed as far as possible in their

civilities; the former, from their industry and perseverance, have

almost monopolized all the lucrative employments among the lower

orders, excepting the selling of fish and betel-nut, and articles

manufactured in the provinces.

On shore, we were kindly received by Mr. Moore, who at once made us

feel at home. The change of feeling that takes place in a transfer from

shipboard in a hot climate, after a long cruise, to spacious and airy

apartments, surrounded by every luxury that kind attentions can give,

can be scarcely imagined by those who have not experienced it.

As we needed some repairs and supplies, to attend to these was

my first occupation. Among the former, we required a heavy piece

of blacksmith-work, to prepare which, we were obliged to send our

armourers on shore. The only thing they could procure was a place for

a forge; but coal, and every thing else, we had to supply from the

ship. I mention these things to show that those in want of repairs

must not calculate upon their being done at Manila with dispatch,

if they can be accomplished at all.

[City of Manila.] The city government of Manila was established

June 24, 1571, and the title under which it is designated is, "The

celebrated and forever loyal city of Manila." In 1595, the charter

was confirmed by royal authority; and all the prerogatives possessed

by other cities in the kingdom were conferred upon it in 1638. The

members of the city council, by authority of the king, were constituted

a council of advisement with the governor and captain-general. The

city magistrates were also placed in rank next the judges; and in

1686 the jurisdiction of the city was extended over a radius of five

leagues. In 1818, the members of the council were increased and ordered

to assume the title of "Excellency." Manila has been one of the most

constantly loyal cities of the Spanish kingdom, and is, in consequence,

considered to merit these additional royal favors to its inhabitants.

[Commerce.] In 1834, the Royal Tribunal of Commerce was instituted,

to supersede the old consulate, which had been established since 1772,

The Royal Tribunal of Commerce acts under the new commercial code, and

possesses the same privileges of arbitration as the old consulate. It

consists of a prior, two consuls, and four deputies, elected by the

profession. The three first exercise consular jurisdiction, the other

four superintend the encouragement of commerce. The "Junta de Comercio"

(chamber of commerce) was formed in 1835. This junta consits of the

Tribunal of Commerce, with four merchants, who are selected by the

government, two of whom are removed annually. The prior of the Tribunal

presides at the Junta, whose meetings are required to be held twice a

month, or oftener if necessary, and upon days in which the Tribunal

is not in session. The two courts being under the same influences,

and having the same officers, little benefit is to be derived from

their double action, and great complaints are made of the manner in

which business is conducted in them.

[Magellan.] Of all her foreign possessions, the Philippines have

cost Spain the least blood and labor. The honor of their discovery

belongs to Magellan whose name is associated with the straits at

the southern extremity of the American continent, but which has

no memorial in these islands. Now that the glory which he gained

by being the first to penetrate from the Atlantic to the Pacific,

has been in some measure obliterated by the disuse of those straits

by navigators, it would seem due to his memory that some spot among

these islands should be set apart to commemorate the name of, him

who made them known to Europe. This would be but common justice to

the discoverer of a region which has been a source of so much honor

and profit to the Spanish nation, who opened the vast expanse of the

Pacific to the fleets of Europe, and who died fighting to secure the

benefits of his enterprise to his king and country.

Magellan was killed at the island of Mactan, on April 26, 1521;

and Duarte, the second in command, who succeeded him, imprudently

accepting an invitation from the chief of Cebu to a feast, was, with

twenty companions, massacred. Of all the Spaniards present, only one

escaped. After these and various other misfortunes, only one vessel

of the squadron, the Victoria, returned to Spain. Don Juan Sebastian

del Cano, her commander, was complimented by his sovereign by a grant

for his arms of a globe, with the proud inscription, commemorative

of his being the first circumnavigator, "Primus Me Circumcedit."

[Other expeditions.] Two years afterwards, a second expedition was

fitted out, under the command of Loaisa, who died after they had

passed through the Straits of Magellan, when they had been a year

on their voyage. The command then fell upon Sebastian, who died in

four days after his predecessor. Salazar succeeded to the command,

and reached the Ladrone Islands, but shortly after leaving there

he died also. They came in sight of Mindanao, but contrary winds

obliged them to go to the Moluccas. When arrived at the Portuguese

settlements, contentions and jealousies arose, and finally all the

expedition was dispersed, and the fate of all but one of the vessels

has become doubtful. None but the small tender returned, which,

after encountering great difficulties, reached New Spain.

The third expedition was fitted out by Cortes, then viceroy of Mexico,

and the command of it given to Saavedra. This sailed from the port

of Silguattanjo, on the 31st of October, 1528, and stopped at the

Ladrone Islands, of which it took possession for the crown of Spain. It

afterwards went to Mindanao, and then pursued its voyage to Timor,

where part of the expedition of Loaisa was found remaining. From

Timor they made two attempts to return to New Spain, both of which

failed. The climate soon brought on disease, which carried off a great

number, and among them Saavedra. Thus the whole expedition was broken

up, and the survivors found their way to the Portuguese settlements.

The fourth expedition was sent from New Spain, when under the

government of Don Antonio de Mendoza, for the purpose of establishing

a trade with the new islands, and it received orders not to visit

the Moluccas. This expedition sailed in 1542, under the command

of Villalobos. It reached the Philippine Islands without accident,

and Villalobos gave them that name after Philip II, then prince of

Asturias. Notwithstanding his positive instructions to the contrary,

he was obliged to visit the Moluccas, and met the same treatment from

the Portuguese that had been given to all whom they believed had any

intention to interfere in their spice trade. The squadron touched at

Amboina, where Villalobos died, an event which caused the breaking

up of the expedition; and the few Spaniards that remained embarked

in the Portuguese vessels to return home.

The fifth and last expedition was ordered by Philip II to be sent

from Mexico, when under the government of Don Luis de Velasco,

for the final conquest and settlement of the Philippines. With

this expedition was sent Andres Urdaneta, a friar, whose reputation

stood very high as a cosmographer: he had belonged to the ill-fated

expedition of Loaisa. This was the largest that had yet been fitted

out for this purpose, numbering five vessels and about four hundred

men. The command of it was intrusted to [Legaspi.] Legaspi, under

whom it sailed from the port of Natividad, on November 21, 1564, and

upon whom was conferred the title of governor and adelantado of the

conquered lands, with the fullest powers. On the 13th of February,

1565, he arrived at the island of Tandaya, one of the Philippines:

from thence he went to Leyte; there he obtained the son of a powerful

chief as a guide, through whom he established peace with several of

the native rulers, who thereafter aided the expedition with all the

means in their power. At Bohol they built the first church. There he

met and made peace with a chief of Luzon, with whom he went to that

island. (Facts here are confused.--C.)

He now (April, 1565) took possession of all the island in the name of

the crown of Spain, and became their first governor. In this conquest,

motives different from those which governed them on the American

continent, seemed to have influenced the Spaniards. Instead of carrying

on a cruel war against the natives, they here pursued the policy of

encouraging and fostering their industry. Whether they felt that this

policy was necessary for the success of their undertaking, or were

influenced by the religious fathers who were with them, is uncertain;

but their measures seem to have been dictated by a desire to promote

peace and secure the welfare of the inhabitants. There may be another

cause for this course of action, namely, the absence of the precious

metals, which held out no inducement to those thirsting for inordinate

gain. This may have had its weight in exempting the expedition in

its outset from the presence of those avaricious spirits which had

accompanied other Spanish expeditions, and been the means of marking

their progress with excessive tyranny, bloodshed, and violence. It is

evident to one who visits the Philippines that some other power besides

the sword has been at work in them; the natives are amalgamated with

the Spaniards, and all seem disposed to cultivate the land and foster

civilization. None of the feeling that grows out of conquest is to be

observed in these islands; the two races are identified now in habits,

manners, and religion, and their interests are so closely allied that

they feel their mutual dependence upon each other.

The establishment of the new constitution in Spain in the year 1825

has had a wonderful effect upon these colonies, whose resources have

within the last ten years been developed, and improvements pushed

forward with a rapid step. Greater knowledge and more liberal views

in the rulers are alone wanting to cause a still more rapid advance

in the career of prosperity.

As our visit was to Luzon, we naturally obtained more personal

information respecting it than the other islands. We learned that the

northern peninsula [268] was composed of granite and recent volcanic

rocks, together with secondary and tertiary deposits, while the

southern peninsula is almost wholly volcanic.

The northern contains many valuable mines of gold, lead, copper,

and iron, besides coal. A number of specimens of these, and the rocks

which contain them, were presented to the Expedition by Señores Araria

and Roxas of Manila.

So far as our information and observations went, the whole of the

Philippine Islands are of similar geological formation. In some of

the islands the volcanic rock prevails, while in others coal and the

metalliferous deposits predominate. On some of them the coal-beds

form part of the cliffs along the shore; on others, copper is found

in a chlorite and talcose slate. The latter is more particularly

the case with Luzon, and the same formation extends to Mindoro. Much

iron occurs on the mountains. Thus among the (Upland) natives, who

are yet unsubdued by the Spaniards, and who inhabit these mountains,

it is found by them of so pure a quality that it is manufactured

into swords and cleavers. These are, occasionally, obtained by the

Spaniards in their excursions into the interior against these bands.

[Tufa.] The country around Manila is composed of tufa of a light gray

color, which being soft and easily worked, is employed as the common

building material in the city. It contains, sometimes, scoria and

pumice, in pieces of various sizes, besides, occasionally, impressions

of plants, with petrified woods. These are confined to recent species,

and include palms, etc.

This tufa forms one of the remarkable features of the volcanoes of the

Philippine Islands, showing a strong contrast between them and those of

the Pacific isles, which have ejected little else than lava and scoria.

Few portions of the globe seem to be so much the seat of internal

fires, or to exhibit the effects of volcanic action so strongly as

the Philippines. During our visit, it was not known that any of the

volcanoes were in action; but many of them were smoking, particularly

that in the district of Albay, called Isaroc. Its latest eruption

was in the year 1839; but this did little damage compared with

that of 1814, which covered several villages, and the country for a

great distance around, with ashes. This mountain is situated to the

south-east of Manila one hundred and fifty miles, and is said to be

a perfect cone, with a crater at its apex.

[Resources.] It does not appear that the islands are much affected

by earth-quakes, although some have occasionally occurred that have

done damage to the churches at Manila.

The coal which we have spoken of is deemed of value; it has a strong

resemblance to the bituminous coal of our own country, possesses a

bright lustre, and appears very free from all woody texture when

fractured. It is found associated with sandstone, which contains

many fossils. Lead and copper are reported as being very abundant;

gypsum and limestone occur in some districts. From this, it will

be seen that these islands have everything in the mineral way to

constitute them desirable possessions.

With such mineral resources, and a soil capable of producing the

most varied vegetation of the tropics, a liberal policy is all that

the country lacks. The products of the Philippine Islands consist

of sugar, coffee, hemp, indigo, rice, tortoise-shell, hides, ebony,

saffron-wood, sulphur, cotton, cordage, silk, pepper, cocoa, wax,

and many other articles. In their agricultural operations the

people are industrious, although much labor is lost by the use of

defective implements. The plough, of very simple construction, has

been adopted from the Chinese; it has no coulter, the share is flat,

and being turned partly to one side, answers, in a certain degree,

the purpose of a mould-board. This rude implement is sufficient for

the rich soils, where the tillage depends chiefly upon the harrow,

in constructing which a thorny species of bamboo is used. The harrow

is formed of five or six pieces of this material, on which the thorns

are left, firmly fastened together. It answers its purpose well, and

is seldom out of order. A wrought-iron harrow, that was introduced

by the Jesuits, is used for clearing the ground more effectually,

and more particularly for the purpose of extirpating a troublesome

grass, that is known by the name of cogon (a species of Andropogon), of

which it is very difficult to rid the fields. The bolo or long-knife,

a basket, and hoe, complete the list of implements, and answer all

the purposes of our spades, etc.

[Draft animals.] The buffalo was used until within a few years

exclusively in their agricultural operations, and they have lately

taken to the use of the ox; but horses are never used. The buffalo,

from the slowness of his motions, and his exceeding restlessness

under the heat of the climate, is ill adapted to agricultural labor;

but the natives are very partial to them, notwithstanding they

occasion them much labor and trouble in bathing them during the great

heat. This is absolutely necessary, or the animal becomes so fretful

as to be unfit for use. If it were not for this, the buffalo would,

notwithstanding his slow pace, be most effective in agricultural

operations; he requires little food, and that of the coarsest kind;

his strength surpasses that of the stoutest ox, and he is admirably

adapted for the rice or paddy fields. They are very docile when used

by the natives, and even children can manage them; but it is said they

have a great antipathy to the whites, and all strangers. The usual

mode of guiding them is by a small cord attached to the cartilage of

the nose. The yoke rests on the neck before the shoulders, and is of

simple construction. To this is attached whatever it may be necessary

to draw, either by traces, shafts, or other fastenings. Frequently this

animal may be seen with large bundles of bamboo lashed to them on each

side. Buffaloes are to be met with on the lake with no more than their

noses and eyes out of the water, and are not visible until they are

approached within a few feet, when they cause alarm to the passengers

by raising their large forms close to the boat. It is said that they

resort to the lake to feed on a favorite grass that grows on its bottom

in shallow water, and which they dive for. Their flesh is not eaten,

except that of the young ones, for it is tough and tasteless. The milk

is nutritious, and of a character between that of the goat and cow.

The general appearance of the buffalo is that of a hybrid of the

bull and rhinoceros. Its horns do not rise upwards, are very close

at the root, bent backwards, and of a triangular form, with a flat

side above. One of the peculiarities of the buffalo is its voice,

which is quite low, and in the minor key, resembling that of a young

colt. It is as fond of mire as swine, and shows the consequence of

recent wallowing, in being crusted over with mud. The skin is visible,

being but thinly covered with hair; its color is usually that of a

mouse; in some individuals darker.

[Rice.] Rice is, perhaps, of their agricultural products, the article

upon which the inhabitants of the Philippine Islands most depend for

food and profit; of this they have several different varieties; which

the natives distinguish by their size and the shape of the grain:

the birnambang, lamuyo, malagequit, bontot-cabayo, dumali, quinanda,

bolohan, and tangi. The three first are aquatic; the five latter

upland varieties. They each have their peculiar uses. The dumali

is the early variety; it ripens in three months from planting, from

which circumstance it derives its name: it is raised exclusively on

the uplands. Although much esteemed, it is not extensively cultivated,

as the birds and insects destroy a large part of the crop.

The malagequit is very much prized, and used for making sweet and

fancy dishes; it becomes exceedingly glutinous, for which reason it

is used in making whitewash, which it is said to cause to become of a

brilliant white, and to withstand the weather. This variety is not,

however, believed to be wholesome. There is also a variety of this

last species which is used as food for horses, and supposed to be a

remedy and preventive against worms.

The rice grounds or fields are laid out in squares, and surrounded by

embankments, to retain the water of the rains or streams. After the

rains have fallen in sufficient quantities to saturate the ground, a

seed-bed is generally planted in one corner of the field, in which the

rice is sown broadcast, about the month of June. The heavy rains take

place in August, when the fields are ploughed, and are soon filled with

water. The young plants are about this time taken from the seed-bed,

their tops and roots trimmed, and then planted in the field by making

holes in the ground with the fingers and placing four or five sprouts

in each of them; in this tedious labor the poor women are employed,

whilst the males are lounging in their houses or in the shade of

the trees.

The harvest for the aquatic rice begins in December. It is reaped

with small sickles, peculiar to the country, called yatap; to the

back of these a small stick is fastened, by which they are held,

and the stalk is forced upon it and cut. The spikes of rice are

cut with this implement, one by one. In this operation, men, women,

and children all take part.

The upland rice requires much more care and labor in its

cultivation. The land must be ploughed three or four times, and all

the turf and lumps well broken up by the harrow.

During its growth it requires to be weeded two or three times, to

keep the weeds from choking the crop. The seed is sown broadcast in

May. This kind of rice is harvested in November, and to collect the

crop is still more tedious than in the other case, for it is always

gathered earlier, and never reaped, in consequence of the grain not

adhering to the ear. If it were gathered in any other way, the loss

by transportation on the backs of buffaloes and horses, without any

covering to the sheaf, would be so great as to dissipate a great

portion of the crop.

It appears almost incredible that any people can remain in

ignorance of a way of preventing so extravagant and wasteful a mode

of harvesting. The government has been requested to prohibit it on

account of the great expense it gives rise to; but whether any steps

have ever been taken in the matter, I did not learn. It is said that

not unfrequently a third part of the crop is lost, in consequence of

the scarcity of laborers; while those who are disengaged will refuse

to work, unless they receive one-third, and even one-half of the crop,

to be delivered free of expense at their houses. This the planters

are often obliged to give, or lose the whole crop. Nay, unless the

harvest is a good one, reapers are very unwilling to engage to take it

even on these terms, and the entire crop is lost. The laborers, during

the time of harvest, are supported by the planter, who is during that

time exposed to great vexation, if not losses. The reapers are for the

most part composed of the idle and vicious part of the population, who

go abroad over the country to engage themselves in this employment,

which affords a livelihood to the poorer classes; for the different

periods at which the varieties of rice are planted and harvested,

gives them work during a large portion of the year.

After the rice is harvested, there are different modes of treating

it. Some of the proprietors take it home, where it is thrown into

heaps, and left until it is desirable to separate it from the straw,

when it is trodden out by men and women with their bare feet. For

this operation, they usually receive another fifth of the rice.

Others stack it in a wet and green state, which subjects it to heat,

from which cause the grain contracts a dark color, and an unpleasant

taste and smell. The natives, however, impute these defects to the

wetness of the season.

The crop of both the low and upland rice, is usually from thirty

to fifty for one: this is on old land; but on that which is newly

cleared or which has never been cultivated, the yield is far beyond

this. In some soils of the latter description, it is said that for a

chupa (seven cubic inches) planted, the yield has been a caban. The

former is the two-hundred-and-eighth part of the latter. This is not

the only advantage gained in planting rich lands, but the saving of

labor is equally great; for all that is required is to make a hole

with the fingers, and place three or four grains in it. The upland

rice requires but little water, and is never irrigated.

The cultivator in the Philippine Islands is always enabled to secure

plenty of manure; for vegetation is so luxuriant that by pulling the

weeds and laying them with earth, a good stock is quickly obtained

with which to cover his fields. Thus, although the growth is so rank

as to cause him labor, yet in this hot climate its decay is equally

rapid, which tends to make his labors more successful.

The rice-stacks form a picturesque object on the field; they are

generally placed around or near a growth of bamboo, whose tall,

graceful, and feathery outline is of itself a beautiful object,

but connected as it is often seen with the returns of the harvest,

it furnishes an additional source of gratification.

The different kinds of rice, and especially the upland, would no doubt

be an acquisition to our country. At the time we were at Manila, it

was not thought feasible to pack it, for it had just been reaped,

and was so green that it would not have kept. [269] Although rice

is a very prolific crop, yet it is subject to many casualties, from

the locusts and other insects that devour it; the drought at other

times affects it, particularly the aquatic varieties. There is a use

to which the rice is applied here, which was new to us, namely, as a

substitute for razors; by using two grains of it between the fingers,

they nip the beard, or extract it from the chin and face.

[Manila hemp.] Among the important productions of these islands, I have

mentioned hemp, although the article called Manila hemp must not be

understood to be derived from the plant which produces the common hemp

(Cannabis), being obtained from a species of plantain (Musa textilis),

called in the Philippines "abacá." This is a native of these islands,

and was formerly believed to be found only on Mindanao; but this is

not the case, for it is cultivated on the south part of Luzon, and

all the islands south of it. It grows on high ground, in rich soil,

and is propagated by seeds. It resembles the other plants of the tribe

of plantains, but its fruit is much smaller, although edible. The

fibre is derived from the stem, and the plant attains the height of

fifteen or twenty feet. The usual mode of preparing the hemp is to cut

off the stem near the ground, before the time or just when the fruit

is ripe. The stem is then eight or ten feet long below the leaves,

where it is again cut. The outer coating of the herbaceous stem

is then stripped off, until the fibers or cellular parts are seen,

when it undergoes the process of rotting, and after being well dried

in houses and sheds, is prepared for market by assorting it, a task

which is performed by the women and children. That which is intended

for cloth is soaked for an hour or two in weak lime-water prepared

from sea-shells, again dried, and put up in bundles. From all the

districts in which it grows, it is sent to Manila, which is the only

port whence it can legally be exported. It arrives in large bundles,

and is packed there, by means of a screw-press, in compact bales,

for shipping, secured by rattan, each weighing two piculs.

The best Manila hemp ought to be white, dry, and of a long and fine

fiber. This is known at Manila by the name of lupis; the second

quality they call bandala.

The exportation has much increased within the last few years, in

consequence of the demand for it in the United States; and the whole

crop is now monopolized by the two American houses of Sturges & Co.,

and T. N. Peale & Co., of Manila, who buy all of good quality that

comes to market. This is divided between the two houses, and the

price they pay is from four to five dollars the picul. The entire

quantity raised in 1840 was eighty-three thousand seven hundred and

ninety piculs; in 1841, eighty-seven thousand.

The quantity exported to the United States in 1840, was sixty-eight

thousand two hundred and eighty piculs, and in 1841, only sixty-two

thousand seven hundred piculs; its value in Manila is about three

hundred thousand dollars. Twenty thousand piculs go to Europe. There

are no duties on its exportation.

That which is brought to the United States is principally manufactured

in or near Boston, and is the cordage known as "white rope." The

cordage manufactured at Manila is, however, very superior to the

rope made with us, although the hemp is of the inferior kind. A large

quantity is also manufactured into mats.

In the opinion of our botanist, it is not probable that the plant could

be introduced with success into our country, for in the Philippines

it is not found north of latitude 14° N.

[Coffee.] The coffee-plant is well adapted to these islands. A

few plants were introduced into the gardens of Manila, about fifty

years ago, since which time it has been spread all over the island,

as is supposed by the civet-cats, which, after swallowing the seeds,

carry them to a distance before they are voided.

The coffee of commerce is obtained here from the wild plant, and

is of an excellent quality. Upwards of three thousand five hundred

piculs are now exported, of which one-sixth goes to the United States.

[Sugar.] The sugar-cane thrives well here. It is planted after the

French fashion, by sticking the piece diagonally into the ground. Some,

finding the cane has suffered in times of drought, have adopted other

modes. It comes to perfection in a year, and they seldom have two

crops from the same piece of land, unless the season is very favorable.

There are many kinds of cane cultivated, but that grown in the valley

of Pampanga is thought to be the best. It is a small red variety, from

four to five feet high, and not thicker than the thumb. The manufacture

of the sugar is rudely conducted; and the whole business, I was told,

was in the hands of a few capitalists, who, by making advances, secure

the whole crop from those who are employed to bring it to market. It

is generally brought in moulds, of the usual conical shape, called

pilones, which are delivered to the purchaser from November to June,

and contain each about one hundred and fifty pounds. On their receipt,

they are placed in large storehouses, where the familiar operation

of claying is performed. The estimate for the quantity of sugar

from these pilones after this process is about one hundred pounds;

it depends upon the care taken in the process.

[Cotton.] Of cotton they raise a considerable quantity, which is of a

fine quality, and principally of the yellow nankeen. In the province

of Ilocos it is cultivated most extensively. The mode of cleaning it

of its seed is very rude, by means of a hand-mill, and the expense of

cleaning a picul (one hundred and forty pounds) is from five to seven

dollars. There have, as far as I have understood, been no endeavors

to introduce any cotton-gins from our country.

[Wages.] It will be merely necessary to give the prices at which

laborers are paid, to show how low the compensation is, in comparison

with those in our own country. In the vicinity of Manila, twelve and

a half cents per day is the usual wages; this in the provinces falls

to six and nine cents. A man with two buffaloes is paid about thirty

cents. The amount of labor performed by the latter in a day would

be the ploughing of a soane, about two-tenths of an acre. The most

profitable way of employing laborers is by the task, when, it is said,

the natives work well, and are industrious.

The manner in which the sugar and other produce is brought to market

at Manila is peculiar, and deserves to be mentioned. In some of the

villages, the chief men unite to build a vessel, generally a pirogue,

in which they embark their produce, under the conduct of a few persons,

who go to navigate it, and dispose of the cargo. In due time they

make their voyage, and when the accounts are settled, the returns

are distributed to each according to his share. Festivities are then

held, the saints thanked for their kindness, and blessings invoked

for another year. After this is over, the vessel is taken carefully

to pieces, and distributed, among the owners, to be preserved for

the next season.

The profits in the crops, according to estimates, vary from sixty

to one hundred per cent.; but it was thought, as a general average,

that this was, notwithstanding the great productiveness of the soil,

far beyond the usual profits accruing from agricultural operations. In

some provinces this estimate would hold good, and probably be exceeded.

[Indigo.] Indigo would probably be a lucrative crop, for that raised

here is said to be of quality equal to the best, and the crop is

not subject to so many uncertainties as in India: the capital and

attention required in vats, etc., prevent it from being raised in

any quantities. Among the productions, the bamboo and rattan ought to

claim a particular notice from their great utility; they enter into

almost every thing. Of the former their houses are built, including

frames, floors, sides, and roof; fences are made of the same material,

as well as every article of general household use, including baskets

for oil and water. The rattan is a general substitute for ropes of

all descriptions, and the two combined are used in constructing rafts

for crossing ferries.

I have thus given a general outline of the capabilities of this

country for agricultural operations, in some of the most important

articles of commerce; by which it will be seen that the Philippine

Islands are one of the most favored parts of the globe.

[Locusts.] The crops frequently suffer from the ravages of the locusts,

which sweep all before them. Fortunately for the poorer classes, their

attacks take place after the rice has been harvested; but the cane

is sometimes entirely cut off. The authorities of Manila, in the vain

hope of stopping their devastations, employ persons to gather them and

throw them into the sea. I understood on one occasion they had spent

eighty thousand dollars in this way, but all to little purpose. It is

said that the crops rarely suffer from droughts, but on the contrary

the rains are thought to fall too often, and to flood the rice fields;

these, however, yield a novel crop, and are very advantageous to the

poor, viz.: a great quantity of fish, which are called dalag, and are

a species of Blunnius; they are so plentiful, that they are caught

with baskets: these fish weigh from a half to two pounds, and some are

said to be eighteen inches long; but this is not all; they are said,

after a deep inundation, to be found even in the vaults of churches.

The Philippines are divided into thirty-one provinces, sixteen of

which are on the island of Luzon, and the remainder comprise the

other islands of the group and the Ladrones.

[Population.] The population of the whole group is above three

millions, including all tribes of natives, mestizos, and whites. The

latter-named class are but few in number, not exceeding three

thousand. The mestizos were supposed to be about fifteen or twenty

thousand; they are distinguished as Spanish and Indian mestizos. The

Chinese have of late years increased to a large number, and it is

said that there are forty thousand of them in and around Manila

alone. One-half of the whole population belongs to Luzon. The island

next to it in the number of inhabitants is Panay, which contains

about three hundred and thirty thousand. Then come Cebu, Mindanao,

Leyte, Samar, and Negros, varying from the above numbers down to

fifty thousand. The population is increasing, and it is thought that

it doubles itself in seventy years. This rate of increase appears

probable, from a comparison of the present population with the estimate

made at the beginning of the present century, which shows a growth

in the forty years of about one million four hundred thousand.

The native population is composed of a number of distinct tribes,

the principal of which in Luzon are Pangasinan, Ilocos, Cagayan,

Tagalog, and Pampangan.

The Igorots, who dwell in the mountains, are the only natives who

have not been subjected by the Spaniards. The other tribes have

become identified with their rulers in religion, and it is thought

that by this circumstance alone has Spain been able to maintain the

ascendency with so small a number, over such a numerous, intelligent,

and energetic race as they are represented to be. This is, however,

more easily accounted for, from the Spaniards fostering and keeping

alive the jealousy and hatred that existed at the time of the discovery

between the different tribes.

It seems almost incredible that Spain should have so long persisted

in the policy of allowing no more than one galleon to pass annually

between her colonies, and equally so that the nations of Europe should

have been so long deceived in regard to the riches and wealth that

Spain was monopolizing in the Philippines. The capture of Manila,

in 1762, by the English, first gave a clear idea of the value of this

remote and little-known appendage of the empire.

The Philippines, considered in their capacity for commerce, are

certainly among the most favored portions of the globe, and there is

but one circumstance that tends in the least degree to lessen their

apparent advantage; this is the prevalence of typhoons in the China

seas, which are occasionally felt with force to the north of latitude

10° N. South of that parallel, they have never been known to prevail,

and seldom so far; but from their unfailing occurrence yearly in some

part of the China seas, they are looked for with more or less dread,

and cause each season a temporary interruption in all the trade that

passes along the coast of these islands.

The army is now composed entirely of native troops, who number about

six thousand men, and the regiments are never suffered to serve in

the provinces in which they are recruited, but those from the north

are sent to the south, and vice versa. There they are employed to keep

up a continual watch on each other; and, speaking different dialects,

they never become identified.

They are, indeed, never allowed to remain long enough in one region,

to imbibe any feelings in unison with those of its inhabitants. The

hostility is so great among the regiments, that mutinies have occurred,

and contests arisen which have produced even bloodshed, which it was

entirely out of the power of the officers to prevent. In cases of

this kind, summary punishment is resorted to.

[Conditions not peaceful.] Although the Spaniards, as far as is known

abroad, live in peace and quiet, this is far from being the case; for

rebellion and revolts among the troops and tribes are not unfrequent in

the provinces. During the time of our visit one of these took place,

but it was impossible to learn anything concerning it that could

be relied upon, for all conversation respecting such occurrences

is interdicted by the government. The difficulty to which I refer

was said to have originated from the preaching of a fanatic priest,

who inflamed them to such a degree that they overthrew the troops

and became temporarily masters of the country. Prompt measures were

immediately taken, and orders issued to give the rebels no quarter;

the regiments most hostile to those engaged in the revolt were ordered

to the spot; they spared no one; the priest and his companions were

taken, put to death, and according to report, in a manner so cruel as

to be a disgrace to the records of the nineteenth century. Although I

should hope the accounts I heard of these transactions were incorrect,

yet the detestation these acts were held in, would give some color

to the statements.

The few gazettes that are published at Manila are entirely under the

control of the government; and a resident of that city must make

up his mind to remain in ignorance of the things that are passing

around him, or believe just what the authorities will allow to be

told, whether truth or falsehood. The government of the Philippines

is emphatically an iron rule: how long it can continue so, is doubtful.

[The governor-general.] One of my first duties was to make an

official call upon His Excellency Don Marcelino Oroa, who is the

sixty-first governor of the Philippine Islands. According to the

established etiquette, Mr. Moore, the vice-consul, announced our

desire to do so, and requested to be informed of the time when we

would be received. This was accordingly named, and at the appointed

hour we proceeded to the palace in the city proper. On our arrival,

we were announced and led up a flight of steps, ample and spacious,

but by no means of such splendor as would indicate the residence of

vice-royalty. The suite of rooms into which we were ushered were so

dark that it was difficult to see. I made out, however, that they were

panelled, and by no means richly furnished. His excellency entered

from a side-door, and led us through two or three apartments into his

private audience-room, an apartment not quite so dark as those we

had come from: our being conducted to this, I was told afterwards,

was to be considered an especial mark of respect to my country. His

reception of us was friendly. The governor has much more the appearance

of an Irishman than of a Spaniard, being tall, portly, of a florid

complexion. He is apparently more than sixty years of age. He was

dressed in a full suit of black, with a star on his breast.

Mr. Moore acted as interpreter, and the governor readily acceded to my

request to be allowed to send a party into the interior for a few days;

a permission which I almost despaired of receiving, for I knew that

he had refused a like application some few months before. The refusal,

however, I think was in part owing to the character of the applicants,

and the doubtful object they had in view. I impute the permission we

received to the influence of our consul, together with Mr. Sturges,

whose agreeable manners, conciliatory tone, and high standing with

the authorities, will, I am satisfied, insure us at all times every

reasonable advantage or facility.

The term of the governor in office is three years, and the present

incumbent was installed in 1841. This length of time is thought to be

sufficient for any one of them to make a fortune. The office is held

by the appointment of the ministry in Spain, and with it are connected

perquisites that are shared, it is said, by those who confer them.

After having paid our respects to his excellency, we drove to visit

several other officers of the government, who received us without

ceremony. We generally found them in loose morning-gowns, smoking, and

cigars were invariably offered us; for this habit appears in Manila to

extend to all ranks. Even in the public offices of the custom-house

it was the fashion, and cigars, with a machero for striking a light,

or a joss-stick kept burning, were usually seen in every apartment.

[Courteous Spanish officials.] To the captain of the port, Don Juan

Salomon, I feel under many obligations for his attentions. I was

desirous of obtaining information relative to the Sulu Seas, and to

learn how far the Spanish surveys had been carried. He gave me little

hopes of obtaining any; but referred me to Captain Halcon, of the

Spanish Navy, who had been employed surveying some part of the coast

of the islands to the north. The latter whom I visited, on my making

the inquiry of him, and stating the course I intended to pursue,

frankly told me that all the existing charts were erroneous. He

only knew enough of the ground to be certain that they were so,

and consequently useless. He advised my taking one of the native

pilots, who were generally well acquainted with the seas that lay

more immediately in my route. The captain of the port was afterwards

kind enough to offer to procure me one.

The intercourse I had with these gentlemen was a source of much

gratification, and it gives me great pleasure to make this public

expression of it. To both, my sincere acknowledgments are due for

information in relation to the various reefs and shoals that have

been recently discovered, and which will be found placed in their

true position on our charts.

During our stay at Manila, our time was occupied in seeing sights,

shopping, riding, and amusing ourselves with gazing on the throng

incessantly passing through the Escolta of the Binondo suburb, or

more properly, the commercial town of Manila.

[Cigar factories.] Among the lions of the place, the great royal cigar

manufactories claim especial notice from their extent and the many

persons employed. There are two of these establishments, one situated

in the Binondo quarter, and the other on the great square or Prado;

in the former, which was visited by us, there are two buildings of

two stories high, besides several storehouses, enclosed by a wall,

with two large gateways, at which sentinels are always posted. The

principal workshop is in the second story, which is divided into six

apartments, in which eight thousand females are employed. Throughout

the whole extent, tables are arranged, about sixteen inches high,

ten feet long, and three feet wide, at each of which fifteen women

are seated, having small piles of tobacco before them. The tables are

set crosswise from the wall, leaving a space in the middle of the room

free. The labor of a female produces about two hundred cigars a day;

and the working hours are from 6 a.m., till 6 p.m., with a recess of

two hours, from eleven till one o'clock. The whole establishment is

kept very neat and clean, and every thing appears to be carried on

in the most systematic and workmanlike manner. Among such numbers,

it has been found necessary to institute a search on their leaving

the establishment to prevent embezzlement, and this is regularly

made twice a day, without distinction of sex. It is a strange sight

to witness the ingress and egress of these hordes of females; and

probably the world cannot elsewhere exhibit so large a number of ugly

women. Their ages vary from fifteen to forty-five. The sum paid them

for wages is very trifling. The whole number of persons employed in the

manufactories is about fifteen thousand; this includes the officers,

clerks, overseers, etc.

As nearly as I could ascertain, the revenue derived from these

establishments is half a million of dollars.

The natives of the Philippines are industrious. They manufacture an

amount of goods sufficient to supply their own wants, particularly

from Panay and Ilocos. These for the most part consist of cotton and

silks, and a peculiar article called piña. The latter is manufactured

from a species of Bromelia (pineapple), and comes principally

from the island of Panay. The finest kinds of piña are exceedingly

beautiful, and surpass any other material in its evenness and beauty

of texture. Its color is yellowish, and the embroidery is fully

equal to the material. It is much sought after by all strangers,

and considered as one of the curiosities of this group. Various

reports have been stated of the mode of its manufacture, and among

others that it was woven under water, which I found, upon inquiry,

to be quite erroneous. The web of the piña is so fine, that they

are obliged to prevent all currents of air from passing through the

rooms where it is manufactured, for which purpose there are gauze

screens in the windows. After the article is brought to Manila, it

is then embroidered by girls; this last operation adds greatly to

its value. We visited one of the houses where this was in progress,

and where the most skilful workwomen are employed.

On mounting the stairs of bamboos, every step we took produced its

creak; but, although the whole seemed but a crazy affair, yet it did

not want for strength, being well and firmly bound together. There

were two apartments, each about thirteen by twenty-five feet, which

could be divided by screens, if required. At the end of it were seen

about forty females, all busily plying their needles, and so closely

seated as apparently to incommode each other. The mistress of the

manufactory, who was quite young, gave us a friendly reception, and

showed us the whole process of drawing the threads and working the

patterns, which, in many cases, were elegant.

A great variety of dresses, scarfs, caps, collars, cuffs, and

pocket-handkerchiefs, were shown us. These were mostly in the rough

state, and did not strike us with that degree of admiration which was

expected. They, however, had been in hand for six months, and were

soiled by much handling; but when others were shown us in the finished

state, washed and put up, they were such as to claim our admiration.

I was soon attracted by a very different sight at the other end of the

apartment. This was a dancing-master and his scholar, of six years old,

the daughter of the woman of the house. It was exceedingly amusing

to see the airs and graces of this child.

For music they had a guitar; and I never witnessed a ballet that

gave me more amusement, or saw a dancer that evinced more grace,

ease, confidence, and decided talent, than did this little girl. She

was prettily formed, and was exceedingly admired and applauded by us

all. Her mother considered her education as finished, and looked on

with all the admiration and fondness of parental affection.

On inquiry, I found that the idea of teaching her to read and write had

not yet been entertained. Yet every expense is incurred to teach them

to use their feet and arms, and to assume the expression of countenance

that will enable them to play a part in the afterscenes of life.

This manufactory had work engaged for nine months or a year in

advance. The fabric is extremely expensive, and none but the wealthy

can afford it. It is also much sought after by foreigners. Even orders

for Queen Victoria and many of the English nobility were then in hand;

at least I so heard at Manila. Those who are actually present have,

notwithstanding, the privilege of selecting what they wish to purchase;

for, with the inhabitants here, as elsewhere, ready money has too

much attraction for them to forego the temptation.

Time in Manila seems to hang heavily on the hands of some of its

inhabitants; their amusements are few, and the climate ill adapted to

exertion. The gentlemen of the higher classes pass their morning in

the transaction of a little public business, lounging about, smoking,

etc. In the afternoon, they sleep, and ride on the Prado; and in the

evening, visit their friends, or attend a tertulia. The ladies are to

be pitied; for they pass three-fourths of their time in déshabillé,

with their maids around them, sleeping, dressing, lolling, and combing

their hair. In this way the whole morning is lounged away; they neither

read, write, nor work. In dress they generally imitate the Europeans,

except that they seldom wear stockings, and go with their arms bare. In

the afternoon they ride on the Prado in state, and in the evening

accompany their husbands. Chocolate is taken early in the morning,

breakfast at eleven, and dinner and supper are included in one meal.

Mothers provide for the marriage of their daughters; and I was told

that such a thing as a gentleman proposing to any one but the mother,

or a young lady engaging herself, is unknown and unheard of. The

negotiation is all carried forward by the mother, and the daughter is

given to any suitor she may deem a desirable match. The young ladies

are said to be equally disinclined to a choice themselves, and if

proposals were made to them, the suitor would be at once referred to

the mother. Among the lower orders it is no uncommon thing for the

parties to be living without the ceremony of marriage, until they have

a family and no odium whatever is attached to such a connexion. They

are looked upon as man and wife, though they do not live together; and

they rarely fail to solemnize their union when they have accumulated

sufficient property to procure the requisite articles for housekeeping.

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