Farewell to Lafayette, by the inhabitants of Baltimore: Journey from
Baltimore to Washington: Entry of that city: Visit to the President:
Description of Washington: Jesuits.
Our departure from Baltimore was as brilliant as our entry, but not like
the latter enlivened by resounding acclamations of public joy. The
troops paraded on the plain between the city and fort M’Henry, to
perform some grand manœuvres in presence of general Lafayette, after
which we were invited to a farewell dinner, under an immense tent,
whence we could behold nearly all the points rendered illustrious by
American valour during the war of 1814. Generals Smith, Stricker, and
Harper, colonels Howard, Carrol, Bentalou and other veterans of liberty
were present at this repast, during which a number of toasts were drank,
among others was one paying to general Smith a tribute of eulogy and
gratitude for his excellent conduct as commander-in-chief, during the
late war. The modesty with which the veteran received this testimonial
of esteem from his fellow-citizens, proved to us what generous
sentiments are inspired by liberty and excellent institutions. He rose
with vivacity, and in a short address replete with the fervour of
feeling, reproached his friends for heaping their gratitude exclusively
on him, while so many brave men had an equal claim to it.—“My plans and
orders,” said he, “would have been unavailing, if my troops had not been
freemen, and had I not been so ably aided by my worthy friend general
Stricker. Cease then fellow-citizens to thank me exclusively, you cannot
wish that a republican should appropriate to himself a victory common to
all.”
Towards the conclusion of the entertainment a young officer requested
permission to sing some verses of his own composition. They were filled
with those generous sentiments which among Americans naturally arise at
the magic names of liberty, Washington, and Lafayette. He sung them with
an engaging expression, but as he drew near the conclusion, and was to
pronounce the name of him he celebrated, his emotion overcame his voice,
he could not complete his song, and falling upon the hand of Lafayette,
he bathed it with tears, and rushed out to escape the praises merited by
his feelings and intelligence.
The approach of the sun to the horizon warned us that no time was to be
lost, if we wished to profit by his light in commencing our journey; we
therefore quickly left the table to join our carriages, which waited for
us at some distance; but, so great was the crowd surrounding them, that,
notwithstanding the care of those who accompanied us, we were soon
separated; the general and his son were literally carried in triumph by
the citizens, and it was a long time before I could rejoin them.
Night closed in upon us while on our journey, and rendered the march
very painful to our escort, which had been constantly mounted since
morning. On this account, added to the general’s wish to enter
Washington by daylight, the committee of arrangement determined to
propose that he should sleep on the way. To this the general assented,
and soon after we arrived in front of an hotel, at which we were to
halt, but as we were about to alight, we heard a great tumult of
confused voices pronouncing angrily the name of _Waterloo_: at the same
moment an officer of the escort came to the door and informed the
general that the name of the house was _Waterloo_, inquiring if it was
agreeable to him to lodge there. The general replied that he would
willingly go on, but that he feared to fatigue his escort. They however
declared they had rather founder their horses than that he should remain
in a house whose name might awaken unpleasant reflections; we therefore
continued our journey. Our escort, enraged at the innkeeper, wished
before we left the place to pull down his sign, and would have done it,
if their officers had not prevented it by reminding them of the sacred
right of property. We stopped for the night at an excellent inn two or
three miles distant, where we learned that an old _tory_ of this
country, still besotted by his love for the English, had rented the
other house to a poor innkeeper, on condition that he named it
“Waterloo.” Our informant added that every one despised him, and as no
one goes to his tavern, he is obliged to indemnify the tenant; however
he is rich and obstinate.
On the morning of the 12th of October, captain SPRIGG was at the head of
his beautiful volunteer cavalry, ready to escort general Lafayette to
Washington. Captain Sprigg was not long since governor of Maryland,
which office he discharged for several years in a manner that
conciliated universal esteem and regard. In relinquishing his public
office to return to private life, he did not think he had discharged all
his duties towards his country. He organized, almost entirely at his own
expense, a company of volunteer cavalry, gave them for instructor a
brave Polish officer, colonel Leymanowski, who served for twenty years
in the French army, and forgetting his previous elevation, did not think
it beneath his dignity as ex-governor, to assume the modest uniform of a
captain. One cannot avoid feeling a sentiment of profound respect on
beholding this patriotic soldier surrounded by his cavalry, nearly all
of whom are farmers residing in the county he lives in, continually
employing himself with their military improvement and the perfection of
their organization, and especially with the development of their
patriotic sentiments, which his conversation and example daily augments.
Captain Sprigg is also a tender parent, and an active and enlightened
agriculturist.
We soon after met the corporation of Washington, the troops and people
who came to meet general Lafayette. We then left our carriages for open
barouches, and in a short time entered the capital of the United States.
We were already half an hour within the limits of the city, without
finding a single habitation; the plan of Washington is so gigantic that
it will require a century for its completion. It is only built up in the
interval which separates the president’s house from the capitol, and
this space at present forms a moderate town. Our march from the entrance
of the city to the capitol, was marked by the firing of cannon, and
frequently impeded by the crowd which pressed upon the procession. After
passing under an arch of triumph Lafayette entered the capital, where
all the municipal authorities awaited him: he was conducted to an outer
gallery where the mayor addressed him on behalf of the city, in presence
of the people. Leaving the capital the procession moved slowly through
the city to the president’s house. The way was thronged with the youth
of the schools, and by numerous corps of militia. In this part of our
progress we passed under the windows of several ambassadors of the holy
alliance, to whom doubtless a triumph so excellent, so pure, and simple,
must have been an incomprehensible phenomenon.
We arrived at the president’s mansion, which is a very simple building,
but in good taste: it is constructed of very hard white stone, has but
one story, and terminates by a platform in the Italian style. The first
floor is somewhat raised from the ground, and an elegant peristyle leads
to it. The yard in front of the house is surrounded by a handsome iron
railing, having three gates, which are neither defended by guards,
constables, nor insolent lackies. The crowd which accompanied the
procession stopped in front of the railing, and none but the city
authorities accompanied us into the house. A single domestic opened the
principal door, and we were immediately introduced into the hall of
audience, which is of considerable size, elliptical in shape, and
decorated and carpeted with a remarkable correctness of taste. The
president at the upper end of the room, was seated upon a chair not
differing in form or elevation from the rest, and had near him the four
secretaries of the cabinet, the officers of the army and navy; some
senators and public officers were arranged in a semicircle on his right
and left. Like the president, they were all dressed in plain blue,
without lace, embroidery or decorations, without any of those puerile
ornaments for which so many silly men dance attendance in the
antichambers of European palaces. When general Lafayette entered, the
whole assembly rose, the president advanced eagerly to meet him,
embraced him with fraternal tenderness, then came to us and shook us
kindly by the hand, after which he introduced us all three individually
to the persons present. After this official introduction, the circle
broke up, groups were formed, and particular conversations ensued on
various points. During this time the president having drawn us three
near him, addressed the general thus:—“you are aware from my last letter
how much I desired to have you in my house along with your two
companions, during your stay in this city; but I am obliged to renounce
this pleasure. The people of Washington claim you; they say that as the
Nation’s Guest, none but the nation has a right to lodge you. I must
yield to the public will, and the municipalty have prepared a hotel,
provided a carriage, and in short, anticipated all your wants. You must
accept their invitation, but I hope that this will not hinder you from
considering my house as your own; you will always find your places ready
at my table, and I wish whenever you have no engagement with the
citizens, that you will dine with me. This evening, the municipalty
expect you at a public banquet: to-morrow you will be present at a grand
dinner which I give to the principal officers of government, but once
these ceremonies are concluded, I will do every thing I can, that you
may be as frequently as possible, a part of my family. This invitation
was so cordial and pressing, that general Lafayette frankly accepted it,
and retained our united thanks.”
The next day we went to dine with the president, and found there, all
the ministers, the municipal, judiciary and military officers. Before
taking our places at table, Mr. Monroe introduced us to his wife, two
daughters, and his sons-in-law. We found throughout the family, the same
cordiality and simplicity, which distinguished the president. Mrs.
Monroe is a fine and very agreeable woman.
In sitting down to dinner I observed that but one place was
distinguished from the rest, and this was for general Lafayette, whom
the president caused to sit on his right. All the rest took seats
without ceremony, but all with remarkable modesty. Every one appeared to
try to make his rank forgotten. Accident placed me between the secretary
of the navy, Mr. Southard, and major general Macomb. The latter speaks
French fluently, and had the kindness to answer my numerous questions,
as almost every thing I saw appeared strange to me. “You see here,” said
he, “nearly all the principal officers of our government; that is, the
_upper servants of the people_. They are not numerous, and consequently
the easier to superintend. The people are so much the better served, and
the expense is trifling, for among all these officers there is not one
who dreams of enriching himself. Their appointments are generally too
small to excite cupidity; it is a fact that most of them are obliged to
neglect their personal concerns, in order to attend to those of the
public, and quit the administration poorer than when they enter it; but
an ample recompense awaits their return to private life, in the esteem
and gratitude of their fellow citizens, if they have faithfully
performed their duties.”
I wished much to obtain some details concerning most of the persons who
are here called public servants, but the conversation became general,
and interrupted our particular observations. “On your return from
Yorktown,” said general Macomb, “you will probably pass some time here,
and you can then study the public characters and domestic habits of our
statesmen at your ease. This study may prove very interesting to an
European, and if I can aid you, you may command my services.” I accepted
of his offer with eagerness, and promised myself much advantage from his
good advice.
The three following days of our sojourn at Washington were employed by
the general in visiting Georgetown, which is only separated from the
capital of the United States by a small stream, where he met with a
brilliant reception; in receiving daily a great number of citizens, and
in passing a few moments with the family of his paternal friend, general
Washington. This time I employed in examining the city and its public
buildings, and in collecting some notes relative to the District of
Columbia.
Some time after freedom, commerce, and industry had effaced the bloody
traces of the revolutionary war, and rendered calm the great American
family of the union, Congress thought justly that as every state
required its entire independence, none of them could long be satisfied
with the presence of the central government, which itself needed to be
so situated as to be free from all local influence. In consequence a
small portion of land, situated upon the borders of Maryland and
Virginia, was purchased by government, which made it the seat of its
operations in 1800. This territory is ten miles square, and is traversed
by the river Potomac, and under the name of District of Columbia is
subjected to the immediate administration of Congress. The two most
considerable cities of the District of Columbia are Georgetown and
Alexandria, both much older than the formation of the district. The
first is very prettily situated on the declivity of a hill between the
Potomac and Rock Creek; its population is about 7,000 souls: it contains
a foundery of cannon, of which I shall hereafter speak; but its
commerce, although somewhat active, is much less than that of
Alexandria, situated much lower down, on the right bank of the Potomac.
The population of Alexandria amounts to 8,000 souls, and its exports,
consisting principally of flour, annually amount to nearly 9,000,000
dollars. As to Washington city, it is upon too vast a scale to derive
the aspect of a city from its 13,000 inhabitants. But for its public
buildings, one might take it for an infant colony struggling against
difficulties. In some parts of it, a quarter of an hour is necessary to
walk from one dwelling to the next, and it is not rare to see on the way
a plough heavily tracing a furrow which will probably bear harvests for
another half century, instead of buildings. The projected streets are
all large, straight, and parallel to each other, but the greatest error
committed in tracing them was that of not preserving a row of trees on
each side which would have better marked their direction, and have
offered a shelter from the heat of the sun. The most beautiful building
in Washington, beyond doubt, is the capitol. It contains two spacious
and well arranged halls for the senate and house of representatives;
another for the supreme court of the United States, and a third for the
national library. The capitol was burned by the English in 1814, who
behaved like Vandals when they took Washington; but it has risen from
its ashes, more vast and splendid. The workmen were still engaged upon
the capitol when I visited it. The navy yard, situated at a short
distance from the capitol, is one of the richest and most beautiful
establishments of this kind. All the works in wood and iron are effected
by steam machinery. I saw there several large frigates building. The
armoury appeared to be amply supplied. I was shown some repeating guns
for defending entrenchments, consisting of several barrels, connected
with one lock, firing fifty successive shots without being re-loaded.
Commodore Tingey, who commanded the navy yard, and did the honours with
most laudable politeness, promised to show me one of these guns in
operation, but not having time to witness it, I could not judge of its
usefulness, which some American officers boast much of. In the centre of
the principal court-yard, a rostral column is erected in honour of the
Americans who fell before Tripoli. It is of white marble, and was
surrounded with allegoric figures, skilfully executed; but in 1814, the
British, basely jealous of all foreign glory, endeavoured to destroy it;
it still bears numerous marks of sabre cuts with which it was struck in
brutal rage. The Americans have effaced none of them, and have scarce
complained against this act of Vandalism; but they have carved in large
letters, on the base of the monument, this severe sentence, “MUTILATED
BY THE BRITISH IN 1814.”
Next to the capitol, the most remarkable building is the mansion of the
president. The four large buildings which surround it, and are occupied
by the departments of state, are commodiously and solidly built, but are
by no means remarkable for their architecture. The town house is not yet
finished, and is so little advanced, that one can form no idea of its
effect as a public building. As to the theatre, it is a trifling little
house, in which three or four hundred spectators can hardly venture
without danger of suffocation.
Columbian college, founded but a short time since, at present contains
but a small number of pupils. The choice of the trustees and president
promise a brilliant futurity to the institution, but it has a formidable
disadvantage in the proximity of Georgetown college. This institution,
which we visited on the morning after our arrival at Washington, and in
which general Lafayette was received with great evidences of gratitude
and patriotism, is under the direction of the Jesuits. I could not avoid
feeling a painful sensation when I saw the reverend fathers in the
costume of their order. All the mischief with which the Jesuits are
reproached in Europe, presented themselves in a crowd to my alarmed
imagination, and I deplored the blindness of the Americans who confide
the education of their children to a sect so inimical to liberty. On
returning to Washington, I could not avoid mentioning my reflexions and
fears to Mr. C——, a senator, with whom I passed the evening. He
listened, at first smiling, but when he heard me express the wish that
the Jesuits in all countries should not be allowed to interfere in
public instruction, he shook his head with an air of disapprobation.
“Such a measure,” said he, “will never be adopted in our country, I hope
at least; it would, in my opinion, be contrary to the spirit of liberty
which animates us, and unjust towards the Jesuits, against whom we have
no cause of complaint. Nor do I know of any power in our society which
has a right to prescribe such a measure.” “It is possible,” I replied,
“that you have nothing to complain of, because they are here few in
number, and have not yet attained power; but patience—see what happens
in Europe and tremble.” “What happens in Europe can never occur here, so
long as we are wise enough to continue our present institutions; so long
as we have neither _king_, _state religion_, nor _monopoly_, we have
nothing to fear from the intrigues nor the influence of any
_association_. With whom will the Jesuits intrigue here? with the
government? the people are the government. I can well conceive how the
Jesuits of Europe by force of intrigue possess themselves of the king’s
ear, and fill his mind with religious terrors, by the aid of which they
gain from him riches, honour, power, &c.; but really do you believe that
with all the trick and address that you attribute to them, that your
Jesuits will ever be able to persuade a whole free and enlightened
nation to plunder themselves on their account, and to deliver themselves
up shackled hand and foot? Never. And in what way are they to accomplish
this? By public instruction? In order that this instruction should be an
efficacious instrument, they must have a monopoly of it; but thanks to
our institutions we have no monopolies of any kind. We do not groan as
you do in Europe under the yoke of a privileged university. Here every
parent is the sole judge of the manner in which his children shall be
instructed and educated. Hence the concurrence among all those who wish
to devote themselves to the exercise of public instruction, a
concurrence which is only supported by a sincere attachment to our
institutions, a profound respect for the laws which are our work, and
the practice of all the virtues which make a good citizen. The Jesuits
themselves are obliged to fulfil these conditions in order to obtain
public confidence, and they do obtain it; so long as they continue to
deserve it, I see no pretext for depriving them of a right common to
all, and should they ever become unworthy of confidence, public opinion
will render them justice.” “Alas!” continued I, “public opinion can do
them justice with us also, but can neither drive them from the councils
of the prince, nor from the university, nor the rich establishments they
have founded, nor the offices they have secured.” “Then,” coolly replied
the senator, “have none of these things, and your Jesuits will be as
harmless as ours.”