Voyage from Philadelphia to Baltimore: American aristocracy: Fort
M’Henry: Entry of Baltimore: Description of Baltimore: Defence of
the city in 1814.
On the 5th of October, received the touching adieus of the inhabitants
of Philadelphia, and at 8 o’clock, P. M. we embarked on the Delaware to
go down to Chester. We were accompanied by the committee of arrangement,
a battalion of volunteers and a great number of staff officers. We
arrived at Chester by 11 o’clock at night, and found the town
illuminated; the hall in which general Lafayette was received and
addressed, reminded him of a very memorable epoch of his life; it was in
this very hall that the wound was first dressed, which he received at
the battle of Brandywine. Before dismounting he still had the strength
and presence of mind to rally a party of troops which were flying in
disorder, and placed them at the entrance of the bridge to check the
enemy, if he had conceived the thought of following up his first
success. These different circumstances were recalled in a very affecting
manner, by the orator charged to receive the general in the name of the
inhabitants of Chester. After partaking of an excellent supper prepared
by the ladies of Chester, we went to pass the rest of the night at the
dwelling of colonel Anderson, an ancient companion in arms of general
Lafayette.
Next morning we continued our journey, and arrived at an early hour at
the borders of the state of Delaware, the point of which we were to
cross where it lies between the states of Pennsylvania, Maryland, and
New Jersey. There we took leave of our Philadelphia friends, who only
left us after consigning us to the care of the Delaware committee, at
the head of which general Lafayette recognized with pleasure, captain
M’LANE, who commanded with great intrepidity under his orders, a company
of partizans during the campaign of Virginia, and who at this time in
spite of his 80 years of age, came to receive him on horseback, wearing
the revolutionary hat and feather.
We arrived, to dinner, at Wilmington; this handsome town, regularly
built between the Christiana and Brandywine, is the largest in the state
of Delaware; although its population does not exceed six thousand souls,
it is nevertheless the centre of a considerable commerce, which is
facilitated by its means of navigation. The vicinity of Philadelphia and
Baltimore imparts a great activity to its manufactures. Notwithstanding
the entreaties of the inhabitants, general Lafayette was obliged to
continue his route to Frenchtown, in order to arrive the same day, where
we were to find a steam-boat to convey us to Baltimore. We delayed for
some hours at New Castle, to be present at the nuptials of the son of
Mr. Victor Dupont, with Miss Vandyke. The marriage ceremony, which was
conducted according to the rites of the reformed church, interested us
extremely by its touching simplicity of character. It was performed in a
hall in presence of the collected members of both families, and of some
invited friends. The minister of the gospel before uniting the young
couple, made them a short address, in which he explained clearly and
without mysteriousness, the duties which their new situation would
impose on them in the social order, and spoke of the virtues which could
alone contribute to their happiness, like a husband and parent to whom
the practice of these virtues had long been familiar. After having
united them he terminated by a touching prayer, in English, in which
every one could heartily unite, as it was perfectly intelligible to all.
Notwithstanding the absence of robes and decorations, this service
appeared to me as worthy and imposing as that of the Roman Catholic
church.
The night was far advanced when we arrived at Frenchtown, where the
steam-boat United States had waited for us a long time. At a short
distance from Frenchtown, general Lafayette was met by a numerous
deputation, and the aids of the governor of Maryland, who informed him
that they were charged to convey him to Fort M’Henry, where the governor
had established his head quarters to receive him. Among this deputation
Lafayette recognized with pleasure many of his old friends, especially
two Frenchmen, colonel Bentalou, ancient officer of Pulaski’s legion,
and Mr. Dubois Martin, an old man of 83 years, who commanded the vessel
in which Lafayette escaped from Bordeaux to come to the United States.
At the moment of our embarkation we learned that Mr. John Adams,
secretary of state, had arrived at Frenchtown, on his way to Washington,
and that he had accepted with pleasure the invitation given him to join
the company of general Lafayette, to whom this was an especial
satisfaction, as Mr. Adams was also an old and kind acquaintance.
Many travellers who have visited the United States, and who pretend to
be well acquainted with the manners of the country, have stated that the
Americans, in spite of their republican institutions, are essentially
aristocratic in their habits, the following fact, will, I think,
victoriously refute the accusation; and this fact is not an insulated
one, nor an exception, as I shall have many others to relate.
On board the steam-boat which conveyed us across the Chesapeake, a
chamber was prepared for general Lafayette, and as the committee of
arrangement had the kindness to think that those who had participated in
his fatigues ought to share in his repose, they had caused two other
beds to be placed in the same chamber, one for his son, and the other
for me. We were ignorant how our numerous travelling companions were
arranged to pass the night; when George Lafayette going on deck for the
sake of air, observed that the great cabin in which we had supped was
converted into a vast dormitory, the floor of which was covered with
beds, which the crowd occupied without ceremony. Among those who were
preparing to lie down on the humble mattresses, he remarked with
astonishment the secretary of state, John Adams. He immediately
addressed him, and besought him to change beds with him; which he
refused, declaring that he was very well accommodated, and should be
grieved to separate him from his father. I arrived at the same moment
and joined my intreaties to those of George Lafayette, remarking to Mr.
Adams that the same objection would not apply to my proposition, and
added I hoped he would not condemn me to lie in a good bed, when a man
of his character was stretched upon a hard mattress: he replied very
obligingly, but gave a formal refusal. In short, pressed by our united
requests, and the name of general Lafayette which we made use of, he
stated that if he even felt disposed to accept our offer, he should
still be obliged to refuse it, because before every thing else he must
respect the dispositions of the committee of arrangement, and the
committee had determined that no one should be admitted into general
Lafayette’s chamber but his travelling companions. Mr. George Lafayette
now sought a member of the committee of arrangement, and requested in
the name of his father, that Mr. Adams should be admitted into the
chamber instead of one of us. This latter clause was considered
inadmissible by the committee, which, after a short deliberation,
determined that a fourth bed should be prepared in general Lafayette’s
chamber for Mr. Adams, not because he was secretary of state, but
because general Lafayette desired to have one of his old friends near
him. Mr. Adams did not consent to relinquish his mattress in the common
room, until formally invited by the committee.
If there be any aristocracy in American manners, it must at least be
confessed, that the great officers of the government partake of no such
privileges.
During the night we advanced in exceeding bad weather, but in the
morning when we entered the beautiful river Patapsco, on the banks of
which the rich city of Baltimore stands, the sun dispersed the clouds,
and his first rays gilding the vast horizon unveiled before us,
permitted us already to see the spires of the city and the grove of
masts of vessels which habitually fill the port, and the bastions of
Fort M’Henry, which defends the entrance of the harbour.—At nine o’clock
four steam-boats, the Maryland, Virginia, Philadelphia and Eagle,
covered with flags and streamers, and crowded with a multitude of
citizens, who came to receive their guest by saluting him with a triple
welcome, with which their grateful voices made the air ring, came out of
port and formed a line behind the United States, which majestically
continued her course towards the shore. When we came within a short
distance a number of boats came off to land the company. The first which
landed conveyed general Lafayette, the secretary of state Mr. Adams,
general Smith, Mr. Dubois Martin, and Mr. Morris, president of the
committee. Captain Gardener acted as cockswain, and it was rowed by
twelve ship masters of Baltimore. We went on shore in the other boats,
and were landed at the wharf of fort M’Henry. The National flag which
had floated over it during the last war was hoisted: its ample field
pierced by a bomb-shell, attests the vain efforts of the British
engineers. At the gate of the fort general Lafayette was surrounded by a
number of persons in citizen’s dress, for the most part mutilated. These
were some of the individuals who in the year 1814, proved so
energetically to the English, how much superior are men who combat for
their liberty, country and families, to vile mercenaries hired by kings
to gratify their passions. Fort M’Henry defended by a few citizen
soldiers, saw before its feeble walls the pride and rage of an English
fleet rendered vain, and the enemy obliged to retire disgracefully after
a bombardment of 48 hours.
As general Lafayette entered the fort, the salute of cannon announced it
to the citizens of Baltimore, who at this time crowded forth to meet
him, and covered the long peninsula which extends from the city down to
fort M’Henry, between the two bays formed by the river Patapsco. On the
parade of the fort were collected a great number of old revolutionary
officers, the magistrates, &c. and a detachment of infantry, which, by
opening their ranks, allowed to be seen behind them the _tent of
Washington_. If at this sight general Lafayette was affected by various
emotions, his son was not less moved in beholding once more the person
who had formed the happy and noble idea of bringing it to aid in the
solemnities of the day. Mr. Custis, the author of this delicate
attention, is the nephew of general Washington; with him George
Lafayette passed two years of his youth under the hospitable roof of
Mount Vernon, during the imprisonment of his father in the dungeons of
Olmutz. The remembrance of their former fraternity, and of the cruel
loss of him who had been their common father, caused them an emotion of
mingled pleasure and pain, which could only be expressed by their silent
tears and embraces.
General Lafayette having endeavoured to calm his first emotion, advanced
towards the tent of Washington, where he was received by governor
Stevens with an appropriate address.
After this discourse, to which general Lafayette replied with the
sincere expression of a grateful and profoundly touched heart, we went
into the tent, under which was old colonel Howard, who signalized his
youth by the war of independence, and crowned his old age by the laurels
gathered in 1814, in defence of Baltimore, and who filled the interval
of these two great epochs of his life by the devotion of all his time to
the cause of liberty. This venerable patriot, at the head of the society
of Cincinnati, also addressed the general, and expressed the sentiments
of all his old companions in arms, who could not longer contain the
impulse of their joy, and hastened to throw themselves into the arms of
their ancient leader, who, as they presented themselves, recognized
nearly every one, and reminded them, with vivacity, of the times and
places in which they had shared the same dangers and fatigues.
At length we left fort M’Henry, and the procession was formed to enter
Baltimore; general Lafayette led the way in an open carriage, drawn by
four horses; the vast extent of ground we had to pass on our left, was
ornamented by a line of militia on foot and horseback, which formed in
column behind us as we passed. On our right were the people who had
flocked to meet us from Baltimore. We arrived at the entry of the town,
where we found a triumphal arch, supported upon four beautiful Ionic
columns. Under this arch 24 young ladies, robed in white, crowned with
myrtle, and bearing lances, upon which were inscribed the names of the
states of the union, received the Nation’s Guest, encircled him with
garlands, and crowned him with laurels. At the same instant, the roar of
cannon, mingled with the acclamations of the multitude. The procession
continued its progress, and passing through all the streets, finally
stopped in front of the City Hall, in the principal hall of which the
general was received and welcomed in a speech by the mayor.
In his reply, general Lafayette proved that he had not forgotten the
zeal of the inhabitants of Baltimore in the cause of liberty.
After this answer, and when all the members of the corporation were
introduced, we went to the principal street of the city, in the centre
of which an alcove, covered and adorned with rich carpets, had been
prepared for the reception of general Lafayette and his companions. Here
the militia of Maryland, whose martial air disclosed the warlike
character of this fine country, defiled before us to the sound of
_Lafayette’s march_. Among the numerous corps which passed before us,
one was pointed out to the general which marched under a ragged
standard; this corps was Forsyth’s riflemen, and the flag was that under
which Pulaski died at Savannah.
Pulaski,[17] after having long and uselessly fought for the liberty of
his country, Poland, only abandoned it when the cause of independence
was altogether desperate, and in search of places where he might still
shed his blood for the principles he had hitherto defended. Virginia and
Maryland were completely devastated by the war in 1778; when he
organized a legion at Baltimore, the arts were no longer cultivated, and
the entire activity of the citizens was turned towards war: he was then
obliged to have recourse to the most simple colours. A piece of crimson
silk, obtained with great difficulty, was embroidered in silk by the
religious Moravian women of Bethlehem in Pennsylvania. On one side were
the letters U. S. (United States) and the words “vis unita fortior,” on
the other side was a field emblazoned with 13 stars, with this legend,
“non alius reget” Such was the flag of Pulaski, which always conducted
to the path of glory, the warriors who rallied under it. In 1778, the
lieutenant colonel of this legion fell under the British bayonets at
Egg-harbour, in New Jersey; in 1779, the colonel, who had previously
commanded a regiment of hussars in the army of Frederick the Great, was
sabred before Charlestown; on the 9th of October of the same year,
general Pulaski, who had given his name to the legion, was mortally
wounded by a shell, in the attack upon Savannah. In 1770, the major was
sabred at Mark’s Corner; colonel Bentalou was then the oldest surviving
officer; he took command of the legion, and at the end of the war
inherited its flag, which he carefully preserved. Since the revolution
it had never been displayed, but he thought that the arrival of
Lafayette was a sufficiently glorious occasion for bringing it to light.
After the ceremony, he presented it to the museum, where it was received
by the hands of the ladies of Baltimore.
After the review, we were conducted to our head quarters, which were
established in the elegant hotel kept by Mr. John Barney, brother of the
intrepid commodore BARNEY, who gloriously fell, dreadfully wounded, at
the head of his sailors, (at that time acting on shore as soldiers,) in
the battle of Bladensburg.
In the evening, the city corporation, the senators and representatives
of Maryland, and the governor and his staff dined with the general.
After dinner, numerous toasts were drank, which for the most part were
expressive of attachment to the person and principles of Lafayette, or
sometimes according to the American custom, the opinion of their
political party. Mr. Adams, still affected by the touching scenes he
witnessed at fort M’Henry in the morning, gave the following, which was
received with unanimous applause: “The tears of glory, gratitude, and
joy, shed under the tent of Washington.”
Every instant of our stay in Baltimore, was marked by the most brilliant
festivals, and the most delicate attentions. It is difficult to give a
just idea of the elegance and delicacy of manners of the inhabitants of
this city, in which we find the amiable union of American frankness, and
French ease. The ball given by the city was every thing that was perfect
of the kind; it was prepared in the theatre, and disposed with
inimitable taste. All the boxes were occupied by ladies, and the carpet
was entirely vacant. We were introduced from the stage, only accompanied
by some members of the committee. At the moment the general appeared, he
was announced by an invisible music, which played Lafayette’s march, and
the gas blazing abundantly from numerous pipes, and throwing floods of
dazzling light over the hall, discovered to our delighted eyes the most
ravishing picture I ever beheld. The splendour of a parterre covered
with the most beautiful flowers, would have looked pale along side of
this crowd of beautiful ladies, waving their handkerchiefs, scattering
flowers, and expressing, by their sweet tears, the happiness they
experienced in beholding the Nation’s Guest. In an instant they
abandoned their places, advanced to the middle of the hall, and
surrounded the general, who remained for some moments incapable of
expressing his gratefulness, so much was he affected. The dancing soon
after commenced, and gave us an opportunity of admiring more in detail
the graces and beauty of the ladies of Maryland.
We only remained five days at Baltimore, but general Lafayette’s time
was so skillfully divided, that he could attend to nearly all the
invitations he received. He was present successively at the
entertainments of the freemasons, of the Cincinnati society, &c. &c. He
daily received numerous deputations from a great number of cities
earnestly requesting him to visit them. He visited the various public
establishments of Baltimore, and on Sunday attended divine service,
celebrated by the archbishop. The mass, in music, was admirably chanted
by the ladies of Baltimore, under the direction of Mr. Gilles, an
excellent professor, who for some years has diffused in the city a taste
for good music, and formed a large number of distinguished pupils. On
the same day the corps of militia officers was introduced by general
Harper, who, on this occasion, pronounced a discourse, the following
passage of which, appeared to me, to be especially remarkable.
“This free homage of our hearts,” said he, “stranger to flattery and
ambition, is the more precious to you, as you well know, that it is the
testimony of a nation, in favour of those principles of government, for
which you have shed your blood in this hemisphere, and suffered so much
in the other. This testimony perhaps will not be useless to the sacred
cause you have embraced: at a moment when Europe is divided between two
parties, one of which is endeavouring to perpetuate absolute power, and
the other courageously combats for equality of rights and the
establishment of a constitutional government; it will we hope be a great
encouragement to the friends of the good cause to know that here we are
undivided, and that the American nation is unanimous in its attachment
to liberty.”
General Lafayette replied to the orator, assuring him that he
participated in his opinions, his wishes, and his hopes.
The testimonials of affection both public and private, which the
citizens of Baltimore heaped upon their guest, are too numerous to be
all related; however I cannot refrain from stating the following.
The evening before our departure we had passed at the house of general
Smith; whence we returned on foot accompanied only by two or three
persons. Notwithstanding the lights which illuminated the street, we
hoped to be able to pass through the crowd which was considerable,
without being known, but the size and gait of general Lafayette betrayed
us. He was recognized by some of the passers-by, and his name flying
from mouth to mouth, brought the crowd immediately around us.
Nevertheless we approached our place of residence, and were already
rejoicing that we had not been too long delayed, when George Lafayette
feeling himself strongly pulled by his coat, turned round and saw a most
beautiful girl, who with her hands joined, and with the most touching
voice, exclaimed “I beseech you to enable me but to touch him and you
will make me happy.” General Lafayette hearing her, turned towards her
and gave her his hand, which she seized and kissed with transport, after
which she retreated concealing, her tears and blushes with her
handkerchief. Such a circumstance, especially when it is not insulated,
says more than the most skilful historian.
We visited in nearly all its details the city of Baltimore, which
appeared to me to be one of the most handsome cities in the union.
Although its streets are all very broad and regular, still they have not
the monotony of those of Philadelphia. The ground upon which Baltimore
is built is undulating, which gives to every part a character of
variety: from several elevated points of the city, the eye can take in
not only the whole of the buildings, but also a part of the port. The
sparkling waters of the Patapsco, and the sombre forests which extend in
the distance, seem placed there like shadows fit to bring out more
strongly the magic picture of a city containing 60,000 souls, which has
sprung up in half a century. The inhabitants of Baltimore generally have
a decided taste for the fine arts. I have already said that it was to a
Frenchman that they were indebted for their marked superiority in music,
over almost all the cities in the union. They are also much indebted to
a Frenchman for much of their good taste in architecture. Several of
their public buildings are built from designs furnished by Mr. Godefroy,
who resided a long time in Baltimore. The Unitarian church is a
masterpiece of elegance and simplicity. The battle monument (by
_Capellano_) is of a chaste style and fine execution. The Washington
monument (by _Mills_) is considerably similar in its form and elevation
to our column in the Place Vendôme, at Paris. It is built of beautiful
white marble, and stands on a gentle elevation, whence it may be seen
from various parts of the city, and it may be also seen from a great
distance upon the water.
The harbour of Baltimore is safe and commodious; it occasionally
happens, however, that it is frozen over in rigorous winters. Although
two hundred miles from the sea, it is much frequented; the great number
of navigable rivers which flow into the Chesapeake, makes Baltimore the
centre of a very active internal commerce. Nevertheless, within a few
years a very sensible diminution has taken place in the commercial
activity of Baltimore, which is attributed to various causes. It is
believed that these will be removed, or at least cease to operate
prejudicially so soon as the Ohio rail road shall be completed.
Baltimore appears to me to be one of the most agreeable places of
residence; its inhabitants although occupied ardently in all sorts of
industry, do not neglect those studies which form the taste and enlarge
the dominion of intellect. Several scientific societies exist there; one
of them, the _Newtonian Society of Maryland_, formed in 1818, encourages
with vigor the study of the natural sciences; the Economic Society,
founded in 1819, is intended to forward manufactures and domestic
economy. The Agricultural Society is not less remarkable than the others
for the services it renders, and by the merit of its members. Before our
departure, we were all three distinguished by being elected honorary
members of this society. The cabinet of anatomy by Chiappi, (at the
hospital,) the museum of natural history, the gallery of paintings by
Rembrandt Peale, and the mineralogical collection of Mr. Gilmore, are
beautiful and valuable. The city library is composed of about 14,000
volumes, and belongs entirely to the public. What tends to give a great
charm to the advantages of the city of Baltimore, is its vicinity to
Washington, the seat of the general government, which is about 35 miles
distant; which, during the session of congress, offers great attraction
to those who wish advantageously to attend to the political debates.
However, at Baltimore, as throughout New England, Sunday is rather a
dull day; religious observances are austere, though the most perfect
liberty of conscience exists. The city contains at least twelve sects;
the Catholics are the most numerous, and although thus superior in
numerical force, the sect is as mild, as tolerant and as charitable as
the others; because it is well known that it would meet with no support
from government if it wished to intrigue and domineer as in some parts
of Europe.
This city, so beautiful and interesting at present, was forty-five years
ago, nothing but a small collection of badly built houses. In 1790, its
population amounted suddenly to 13,500 inhabitants: in 1800, by the new
census, it was found to contain 26,514: in 1810, 35,583: in 1820,
62,738; and in 1824, it amounted to 65,000, of which at least fifty
thousand were whites, and eleven thousand free citizens of colour; the
remaining four thousand were slaves. The numbers of the latter are
fortunately daily diminishing: the progress of philanthropy, and of
interest well understood, although slow, is nevertheless constant, and
the friends of humanity have a right to hope that before many years the
inhabitants of Baltimore will be disembarrassed from this pest of
slavery, which might be called disgraceful if we were not aware how many
obstacles have been surmounted to the present time, to abolish this
horrible inheritance which England has bequeathed to the United States,
as if to punish her for having broken her colonial yoke.
The luxury and the arts introduced into Baltimore, have not brought with
them the effeminacy and corruption, which some persons believe to be
their inseparable companions. The defence of Baltimore during the late
war, sufficiently proves that the inhabitants are still, as in the
glorious days of the revolution, passionate lovers of liberty, and
courageous defenders of their independence. Their campaign of 1814, did
them much honour, and pleads victoriously in favour of the militia
system in a defensive war.[18]