Omanbondè visited by Hippopotami.—Vegetation, &c.,
described.—Game somewhat scarce.—Combat between Elephant
and Rhinoceros.—Advance or Retreat.—Favorable reports of
the Ovambo-land.—Resolve to proceed there.—Reconnoitre
the Country.—Depart from Omanbondè.—Author shoots a
Giraffe.—Splendid Mirage.—The Fan-palm.—The Guide
absconds.—Commotion among the Natives.—Arrive at
Okamabuti.—Unsuccessful Elephant-hunt.—Vegetation.—Accident
to Wagon.—Obliged to proceed on Ox-back.—The Party go
astray.—Baboon Fountain.—Meeting with the Ovambo; their
personal Appearance, &c.—Return to Encampment.—An Elephant
killed.—Discover a curious Plant.—Immorality.—Reflections.
Dry as the basin of Omanbondè then was, it nevertheless appeared evident
that, at no distant period, it had contained a good deal of water.
Moreover, there could be but little doubt as to hippopotami having also,
at one time, existed there.
On becoming better acquainted with the geography of these regions, we
thought we were able to explain the phenomenon satisfactorily. Thus,
for instance, from (or to?) the deep, trough-shaped basin of Omanbondè
leads a peculiar water-course, in an easterly direction, called
Omuramba-[21]k’Omanbondè, consisting of a succession of immense gulleys,
very similar to Omanbondè itself. These (after being in a short time
joined by the Omuramba-k’Omatako) we supposed to be connected with some
large permanent water, abounding with hippopotami. In seasons when rains
are plentiful, these troughs or gulleys fill, and, no doubt, retain the
water from one rainy period to another, which enables the animals to
travel at their ease to Omanbondè. Indeed, by similar omurambas they have
found their way even as far south as Schmelen’s Hope. According to Jonker
Afrikaner’s account, a hippopotamus had taken up its abode at this place,
but was at last killed by a sudden inundation of the Swakop. The carcass
was washed up at the mouth of the Tjobis, where he saw its remains.
On a first look at Damara-land, an inexperienced person would “as soon
expect,” as Mr. Galton says, “a hippopotamus to have traveled across the
great Sahara as from Omanbondè to Tjobis.” The fact, however, is, that
this country, after heavy rains, differs as much from its normal state as
a sea-beach when dry and when at spring-tide.
Little or no rain had fallen this year at Omanbondè, and, consequently,
it presented a very dreary and uninteresting appearance. In its bed,
however, we discovered several wells, which, together with numerous
remains of Damara villages, clearly indicated that the so-called lake
was, at times, largely resorted to by the natives.
The vegetation remained precisely as hitherto, but the thorn coppices
were, if possible, thicker and more harassing. The monotony of the scene
was somewhat relieved by clumps of very fine kameel thorn-trees.
Game was rather scarce, yet I managed to bag a few red bucks (pallahs)
and koodoos. Tracks of giraffes, rhinoceroses, and elephants were by no
means uncommon, but I never had the good fortune to fall in with any of
these animals.
Furious battles are said to take place occasionally between the two
last-named; and though, of course, strength in the elephant is infinitely
superior to the rhinoceros, the latter, on account of his swiftness
and sudden movements, is by no means a despicable antagonist. Indeed,
instances are known where they have perished together. At Omanbondè,
we were told that a combat of this kind occurred not long before our
arrival. A rhinoceros, having encountered an elephant, made a furious
dash at him, striking his long sharp horn into the belly of his
antagonist with such force as to be unable to extricate himself, and in
his fall the elephant crushed his assailant to death.
In sauntering one day about the neighborhood of Omanbondè, Galton
suddenly found himself confronted by a lion, which seems terribly to
have terrified him; and he candidly tells us that, being only armed with
a small rifle, he would “much rather have viewed him at a telescopic
distance.”
As soon as we had somewhat recovered from our bitter disappointment, we
began seriously to consider our situation, and to consult on our future
plans. Once more we were without a definite object. Should we return, or
push boldly forward? At one time my friend entertained thoughts of going
no farther; in which case, though it was probable we might reach home in
safety, it was very certain we should reap but little credit for what
had been done. On the other hand, by continuing to travel northward, we
exposed ourselves to much risk and danger. From experience, we were aware
that, to accomplish even a comparatively short distance in our very slow
mode of traveling, months would elapse. In that time, all the pools and
vleys which now contained water would probably be dried up. This would
be certain destruction to ourselves and cattle. Besides this, our men
were disheartened, and wished to return. However, in that respect there
would be less difficulty, as they were now nearly as much dependent on us
as we on them, inasmuch as a broad tract of wild, inhospitable country
separated us from the nearest point of civilization.
From Jonker Afrikaner and various other sources of information, we had
already learned that at a considerable distance to the north there lived
a nation called Ovambo, who had much intercourse with the Damaras, with
whom they bartered cattle for iron-ware. They were a people, moreover, of
agricultural habits, having permanent dwellings, and were reported to be
industrious and strictly honest. The Damaras spoke in raptures of their
hospitality and friendliness toward strangers, and represented them as a
very numerous and powerful nation, ruled by a single chief or king named
Nangoro, who, to their notions, was a perfect giant in size. With regard
to the distance to this country, they gave us the same wild, conflicting,
and unsatisfactory accounts as those we received about the position
of Omanbondè. A variety of circumstances at last induced us, let the
consequence be whatever it might, to attempt to reach this interesting
land.
As, however, no reliance could possibly be placed on the accounts of the
natives with regard to water, character of the country, and so forth, it
was deemed advisable, before moving from our present encampment, to make
a short exploratory excursion in order to see and judge for ourselves.
Mr. Galton, accompanied by a few of the men, therefore rode northward, in
order to ascertain if the route we purposed taking was traversable with
wagons. On the evening of the third day he returned, being assured of its
practicability. He had met with several native villages, and, though his
reception there had by no means been very flattering, we determined to
proceed without a moment’s delay.
None of the Damaras whom we had brought with us from Barmen professed
to know any thing of the country we were about to explore. The guide,
however, whom we had procured a short distance south of Omanbondè, said
that he was well acquainted with it, and volunteered to show us the way
to the Ovambo provided his services should be rewarded with a cow-calf.
Mr. Galton gladly agreed to his terms, but, unfortunately, as the event
proved, paid him his wages in advance.
Early in the morning of the 12th of April we bade farewell to the
inhospitable _shores_ of Omanbondè. For a few hours we kept parallel with
the Omuramba, when we struck into a more easterly course.
During the day we saw vast troops of camelopards, and just at nightfall
I had the good fortune to kill a fine, full-grown male, which was an
acceptable addition to our larder. Before the carcass had time to cool,
twenty or thirty men were busy in tearing it to pieces. As usual on
such occasions, the Damaras dispensed with sleep, and devoted the night
entirely to the enjoyment of the banquet.
The next morning we witnessed a magnificent mirage. Lakes, forests,
hills, &c., burst on the eye and disappeared in rapid succession.
Later in the day we were gratified by the sight of a large number of
palm-trees. This harbinger of a better land was an agreeable surprise,
bringing an involuntary smile of satisfaction to every face. We
were astonished at the cheerful and refreshing effect a very slight
improvement in the landscape had on our spirits. In the distance these
palms seemed to us to form an extensive and compact wood, but on nearer
approach we found the trees grew at long intervals from each other. They
were very tall and graceful, each branch having the appearance of a
beautiful fan, and, when gently waved by the wind, the effect produced
was indescribably pleasing.
This species of palm is, I believe, new to science.[22] It produces fruit
about the size of an apple, of a deep brown color, with a kernel as hard
as a stone, and not unlike vegetable ivory. The fruit is said to have a
bitter taste, but farther north (where, as will be presently seen, we
found the tree very plentiful) it was very palatable. On account of the
great height and straightness of the trunk, the fruit was very difficult
of access. The story our guide told us previously to leaving Barmen about
a tree, the fruit of which was obtainable only by means of “knob-kieries
thrown up at it,” was now easily comprehended. But we experienced greater
difficulty in realizing his other tales, such as the existence of a
people who make trees their sole dwellings, while others were found
without joints to their limbs, who nevertheless were able to indulge in
the refined custom of feeding each other by means of their toes.
[Illustration: FAN-PALM.[23]]
In the afternoon of this day we reached a Damara village which had
already been visited by Mr. Galton, and camped near to it. Previously to
our arrival here our guide absconded, taking with him, besides the calf
my friend had given him as payment, a horse-rug which he had borrowed
from Timbo.
The next morning, just as I was returning to the village from a
successful hunt, I observed an unusual commotion among the natives,
accompanied by the most terrific yelling, passionate vociferations, and
brandishing of assegais. The cause of this uproar was at first thought to
be an attack by the Bushmen on one of the cattle-posts of the Damaras.
However, on investigating the matter more closely, we ascertained
that the apprehensions of the Damaras arose from the arrival of some
inhabitants of a neighboring kraal, who had come forcibly to recover a
flock of sheep which the chief had taken possession of under the pretext
of “hunger.”
The news of our arrival had by this time spread far and wide, and the
Damaras were flocking together from all parts to see the white strangers.
Some of them promised to conduct us to their great chief Tjopopa, who
resided at a place called Okamabuti, which was on our way to the Ovambo.
In the course of our journey to Tjopopa I learned the history of the
father of one of our visitors, who, it would appear, had been a thorough
rogue. He professed great friendship toward the Ovambo, whom he allowed
freely and peaceably to pass through his territory; but when, on one
occasion, they were returning home with a numerous herd of cattle
obtained by barter, he fell suddenly upon them, and deprived them of
all their hard-earned gains. When, however, his treacherous conduct
became known to Nangoro, he instantly dispatched a party in order to
punish him, and this was done so effectually that, since that day, no
one has ventured to molest the Ovambo in their peaceable and industrious
vocation. Indeed, this tribe now commanded a large share of the good-will
and respect of the Damaras.
Elephants were said to be numerous to the northward, and the Damaras
pointed to some wooded knolls, where they said these animals walked “as
thick as cattle.” At times they would suddenly make their appearance
in the night in the midst of a village, and drive the inhabitants
precipitately from their dwellings.
On the 15th of April we were again moving, and the very next day we
entirely lost sight of the palms, which we did not again see till nearly
a whole month’s travel had been accomplished.
On the 17th we reached Tjopopa’s werft. It was reported that through
the instrumentality of his friend Nangoro this man became a chief of
the first order. Be that as it may, he was now living in very great
abundance, though, like many who are well off with regard to worldly
possessions, he was avaricious in the extreme. A miser’s parsimony always
increases in proportion to the enlargement of his property.
Okamabuti may be said to be the northern limit of Damara-land. It is
situated at the foot of those wooded knolls already pointed out to us by
the natives as the resort of elephants; indeed, the ground round about
bore ample testimony to the destructive propensities of these animals.
The place was well supplied with water by a fountain springing from a
limestone bottom.
The morning after our arrival at Okamabuti, we started off on a shooting
excursion, in a northeast direction, in search of elephants; but, though
we discovered their fresh tracks, and followed these for a whole day,
we were unable to overtake the beasts. Notwithstanding our failure, we
enjoyed the trip extremely. The scenery was novel and highly interesting.
At times we crossed savannas where the grass reached above our heads as
we sat on the oxen, and at others we passed through magnificent forests
of straight-stemmed and dark-foliaged timber-trees,[24] fit abodes for
the most wonderful creatures of animated nature.
A day or two afterward a calamity befell us which we had long dreaded. In
order to be near the elephants, that we might hunt them at our leisure,
we had determined to move our camp to a fountain a few hours further to
the northeast, that was much frequented by these animals. On the morning
of our departure, however, before we had proceeded many hundred paces,
our largest wagon came in contact with a stump of a tree, which entirely
demolished the foremost axle-tree. Unfortunate as this circumstance could
not fail to be, we had, nevertheless, every reason to feel thankful
it occurred where it did. The natives hereabout had shown themselves
well disposed toward us. Water and pasturage were abundant; and even
suitable wood for repairing the damage was to be found in the immediate
neighborhood.
A few days would, perhaps, have sufficed to make a temporary repair;
but, as we had a journey of several months’ duration before us, it was
necessary to make the work as permanent as possible, and the seasoning
of the wood alone, in such a case, would occupy several weeks. None
of us had much experience in carpentry; but Hans was by far the most
practical hand, and he boldly undertook the task. To postpone our journey
to the Ovambo till our wagons were in order was now, indeed, out of the
question. The season being advanced, every day became of the greatest
importance; and therefore, to save time, it was resolved that we should
leave the vehicles behind, and that Galton and myself should prosecute
the journey without farther delay by means of pack-and-ride oxen.
Having come to this determination, our first care was to obtain accurate
information of the distance, number of watering-places, and so forth; but
the Damaras proved true to their nature; for, after having spent several
days in cross-questioning them, we were just as far from our object as
ever. Tjopopa himself was very reserved, and would neither provide us
with guides nor give us the least information. He said, however, that he
was just expecting a trading caravan from Ovambo-land, and that, if we
remained with him till its arrival, he doubted not that we should, by
the assistance of the individuals composing it, be enabled to reach that
country. But no reliance could be placed in a Damara.
While in this dilemma, a man unexpectedly came to offer his services as
guide. Without, perhaps, inquiring sufficiently as to whether he was well
acquainted with the road, we accepted with eagerness the proposal, and
did not lose a moment in making preparations for the journey. To shorten
a long story, suffice it to say that we set out; but our _guide_ almost
immediately lost _himself_; and after we had wandered about the hills for
several days, suffering the greatest anxiety of mind, to say nothing of
physical privations, we were about to retrace our steps to Okamabuti,
when we fortunately fell in with some Bushmen. We had left both our
Hottentot interpreters behind, but we managed to explain to them our
wants and wishes. With much persuasion, two of them agreed to accompany
us to a certain large water in advance, of which the Damaras had made
repeated mention. These men desired to spend the night at their own
werft; but we had been so often deceived, that, in order to secure their
services, we determined that only one of them should be allowed to absent
himself. The other was to sleep near us; and, as a further security,
Galton and myself agreed alternately to keep watch on the fellow through
the night.
During our wanderings in the mountains we stumbled upon a series of
wells which we christened “Baboon Fountain,” on account of the number of
baboons which frequented the place. Its real name was Otjikango.
It was from this point that on the morning of the 2d of May we took our
fresh departure under the guidance of our Bushmen friends. We had not,
however, been long on the road before we were overtaken by three or four
men whom our Damaras at once recognized as natives of Ovambo-land, coming
from the very quarter we had just left. They were part of the expected
caravan, and I need hardly say that we were delighted at this opportune
meeting. Contrary to custom, the men had made a short cut across the
hills, and thus we had missed each other. On the Ovambos reaching our
encampment, however, and finding strange tracks, and our bivouac fire
still burning, their curiosity was greatly aroused, and they had detached
the men whom we now encountered in order to bring us back. We did not
much like the idea; yet, in hope of obtaining from them a guide, we
acquiesced, intending presently to pursue our journey.
The caravan was composed of twenty-three individuals, of a very dark
complexion, tall and robust, but remarkably ugly, and scantily attired.
Their looks bespoke determination and independence. On acquainting
them with our object, and our wish to obtain a guide to conduct us to
their country, they not only refused, but became very reserved in their
manner. They promised, however, that if we would return with them to
Tjopopa’s werft, and there wait until they had disposed of their articles
of exchange, we were welcome to accompany them home. They assured us,
moreover, that any attempt on our part to accomplish the journey alone
would be attended with certain destruction; for, even supposing we should
find the waters—which were few and far between—their chief, unless
previously apprised of our approach, would never receive us. We thought
their language bold, and at first laughed at them; but they remained
inflexible. Remonstrances were of no avail, and we soon saw that they
were a very different style of natives from those with whom we had been
accustomed to deal. Moreover, on mature consideration, we thought it only
just that they should know something of our character before taking us
into the heart of the country. We accordingly made necessity a law, and
agreed to their proposal. No sooner had we done so than they threw off
their reserve, and in a very short time we became the best of friends.
Mr. Galton made them a present of some meat, which they greatly prized.
Their sole diet, on these occasions, was apparently a kind of grain
resembling Caffre-corn (_holcus Caffrorum_), which they carried in small
skin-bags. This grain was either half boiled, simply steeped in water,
or, more commonly, partially crushed, and then converted into a coarse
stir-about. They kindly gave us a liberal supply of their homely fare,
which we eagerly partook of, being quite tired with the everlasting
flesh-diet. Our Damaras were also treated with a dish of soaked corn;
but, before they were allowed to taste it, they were obliged to undergo
the ceremony (why or wherefore I know not) of having a quantity of water
spirted into their faces from the mouth of one of the Ovambo. These
people invariably made use of salt with their food, a thing never seen
among the Damaras. As soon as their plain meal was finished, pipes—of
their own manufacture—were produced, and, after a few whiffs, a song
was struck up. One man began to chant, and the whole party joined
occasionally in chorus. Though somewhat monotonous, the music was not
unpleasing.
[Illustration: PIPE.]
They were armed with bow and arrows, the assegai and the knob kierie; but
the two first-named weapons were of smaller dimensions than those used
by the Damaras. Their bows, moreover, were constructed from a kind of
wood called mohama, which, in its natural state, is flat on one side, and
thus, in a degree, of the required form.
The arrows are generally tipped with bone or iron; but they do not often
poison them. They carry their quivers under the left arm by means of a
strap across the right shoulder. In addition to the weapons mentioned,
they have a dagger, protected by a leather sheath tastefully ornamented
with thin copper wire.
[Illustration: DAGGER AND SHEATH.]
[Illustration: HATCHET.]
Carpenter’s work is not much practiced among the Ovambo. The rude hatchet
here represented is nearly the only mechanic’s tool I remember to have
seen in their possession.
Their articles of barter were spear-heads, knives, rings, copper and
iron beads, &c., but of exceedingly rude workmanship. Indeed, it was to
me a constant wonder how they could persuade their neighbors to buy such
trash. Yet _all_ these things were very dear; an unfinished assegai-blade
or a yard of beads being the regular price for an ox.
Their merchandise was packed in small square baskets made out of
palm-leaves: these were suspended to both ends of the long, smooth, and
elastic pole (of palm wood) that each man bore poised on his shoulder.
What with their merchandise, provisions, water, &c., the weight was often
very considerable, yet they traveled much faster than ourselves.
[Illustration: BASKET FOR MERCHANDISE.]
They have no idea of making use of oxen for draft, or, perhaps it would
be more correct to say, they value these animals too highly to make use
of them for such purposes.
On the 4th of May we returned to our encampment. Hans and Phillippus
had killed an elephant during our absence, which highly delighted the
Damaras, who had flocked to the neighborhood of Okamabuti in very great
numbers. We were sorry to find that our cattle, instead of improving in
condition by their rest, were fast losing flesh. This was attributed to
the grass hereabout, which was bitter tasted, and to change of pasturage
in general. The cattle of the natives were accustomed to every variety of
herbage, and did not suffer. Sheep, however, failed to thrive here.
While waiting for the return of the Ovambo traders, who, with the
exception of their head man, Chikor’onkombè, had now dispersed over the
neighborhood in small bands of two and three, I employed the time in
diligently exploring the surrounding country and ascertaining its natural
productions, and was fortunate enough to add many an interesting specimen
of insect and bird to my collection.
The natives were unable to comprehend why I thus collected birds and
other specimens of natural history, and on an evening, when I returned
home, were convulsed with laughter on seeing the contents of my game-bag.
This passion of mine (coupled with my name being unpronounceable) caused
them to rechristen me “Karabontera,” or the bird-killer, by which
designation I am now universally known throughout the country.
The vegetation at Okamabuti was very rank and luxuriant, but the
thorn-jungles still continued to haunt us. The hills were covered with
a profusion of creepers, low shrubs, and aromatic herbs. The _euphorbia
candelabrum_ was particularly abundant.
I discovered a peculiar plant growing on a very large succulent root,
protruding about a foot above the soil. It produced two or three immense
leaves, with a fruit so closely resembling grapes that, when I first
brought some bunches to our encampment, they were mistaken for such; but
they were not eatable—nay, the natives pronounced them to be poisonous.
There was also a tree, yielding an acid fruit somewhat like an apple, but
with a hard kernel similar to that of a plum. In hot weather this fruit
was very refreshing, and not unpalatable.
During our stay at Okamabuti, Tjopopa’s aged mother died. The women of
the place, according to custom, howled most dismally for a whole day.
Great numbers of cattle were killed or sacrificed on this occasion.
Tjopopa would spend whole days at our camp in the most absolute
idleness and apathy, teasing us with begging for every thing he saw.
Like all Damaras, he had a perfect mania for tobacco, and considered
no degradation too deep provided he could obtain a few inches of the
narcotic weed. He was of an easy and mild disposition, but excessively
stingy. We stood greatly in need of live-stock, and took every
opportunity to display our most tempting articles of barter in the hope
of inducing him to purchase. Brass or gilt ornaments he almost spurned,
but cast longing eyes on articles of iron or copper. At last he selected
goods to the value of four oxen, with which he quietly walked off. On
asking him for payment the following day, he smilingly replied, “Why,
between us there must be no talk of buying and selling. You are going to
stop here a long time, and you want plenty of food: this I will give you.”
Knowing the truth of the adage that “a bird in the hand is worth two in
the bush,” we should infinitely have preferred an immediate settlement
to any vague promises. And the end justified our apprehensions. The old
rogue took good care neither to pay his debt, nor make us any presents
of cattle, of which we stood so much in need. Nay, he even went further.
Under pretext of supplying our wants, he induced his people to contribute
oxen and sheep, which he was mean enough to keep for his own use.
Our friend Tjopopa was rather a sensual man: he was supposed to have no
less than twenty wives, two of whom I found, to my astonishment, were
mother and daughter! I have since ascertained that this is by no means
an unusual practice among this demoralized nation. Moreover, when a
chief dies, his surviving wives are transferred to his brother or to his
nearest relation.
It is in vain that poets and philanthropists endeavor to persuade us
that savage nations who have had no previous intercourse with Europeans
are living in a state of the most enviable happiness and purity, where
ignorance is virtuous simplicity; poverty, frugality and temperance; and
indolence, laudable contempt for wealth. One single day among such people
will be sufficient to repudiate these idle notions.