Depart from Schmelen’s Hope.—Meeting with Kahichenè.—Oxen
Stolen.—Summary Justice.—Superstition.—Meeting an old
Friend.—Singular Custom.—Gluttony of the Damaras.—How they
eat Flesh by the Yard and not by the Pound.—Superstitious
Custom.—A nondescript Animal.—The Author loses his Way.—Ravages
of the Termites.—“Wait a bit, if you please.”—Magnificent
Fountain.—Remains of Damara Villages.—Horrors of War.—Meet
Bushmen.—Meet Damaras.—Difficulties encountered by African
Travelers.—Reach the Lake Omanbondè.—Cruel Disappointment.
On the morning of the 3d of March we left Schmelen’s Hope. The
alternately rugged and sandy nature of the soil, the embarrassing thorn
coppices, and the stubbornness and viciousness of the oxen, rendered our
progress at first very slow and tedious.
On the fifth day we arrived at a splendid vley, called Kotjiamkombè.
From the branches of the trees and bushes which lined the sides of this
piece of water were suspended innumerable graceful and fanciful nests of
the well-known weaver-bird species. The rank grasses and reeds afforded
shelter to a great variety of water-fowl, some of which were gorgeously
plumaged. Here we found Kahichenè waiting to receive us; he had already
announced his intention to visit us, and, in order to propitiate our
favor, had a few days previously forwarded us a present of several head
of cattle. The chief was accompanied by about forty of his people, who,
taking them as a whole, were the finest body of men I have ever seen
before or since; yet they were _all_ arrant knaves. Kahichenè told them
as much in our presence; but, strange to say, they were not in the least
abashed.
This tribe had at one time been the richest, the most numerous, and the
most powerful in the country; but, what with their own civil broils, and
the exterminating wars with the Namaquas, they had gradually dwindled to
about twenty-five villages, with perhaps ten or fifteen thousand head of
horned cattle.[20]
Notwithstanding Kahichenè in former days had committed many depredations
against his neighbors, we could not help liking him. In a very short time
he had thoroughly ingratiated himself in our favor. Indeed, he was the
only Damara, whether high or low, for whom we entertained any regard.
Perhaps, also, his late misfortunes had insured our sympathy. With the
missionaries, Kahichenè had always been a very great favorite, and they
looked upon him as the stepping-stone to the future civilization of
Damara-land; but we have already seen how far this was realized.
Kahichenè was somewhat advanced in years, but his deportment was
dignified and courteous. He was, moreover, truthful and courageous—rare
virtues among his countrymen. It would have been well had the rest of the
nation at all resembled this chief.
Kahichenè was at this period at variance with a very warlike and powerful
tribe of Damaras, under the rule of Omugundè, or rather his son, whom he
represented as a man degraded by every vice, and particularly inimical
toward strangers. We, of course, made due allowances, as our friend was
speaking of his mortal enemy; but the account so terrified our men that
three of them begged to be dismissed, and they could only be persuaded to
discontinue their solicitation by our promising them not to pass through
the territory of the hostile chief.
On one occasion, some cattle belonging to Mr. Hahn had been stolen by a
party of Omugundè’s men. Remonstrances being made, they were after a time
returned, but minus their tails, which were cut off by the natives, and
kept by them as “trophies.”
In conflict with Omugundè, several of Kahichenè’s children had been
killed, and one or two had unfortunately fallen alive into the hands of
the enemy. These were kept as prisoners. Only one stripling was now left
to solace Kahichenè in his old age. He informed us that he had made up
his mind to try to recover his offspring and his property, or to die in
the attempt. At first he appeared anxious for our assistance; but, on
mature consideration, he generously refused any interference on our part
in his behalf. “For,” said he, “when once the war begins, there is no
saying when or where it will end. The whole country will be in an uproar;
much blood will be shed; and it would involve you in endless difficulties
and dangers.” He, moreover, strongly endeavored to persuade us from
proceeding northward at all, but in that matter he of course failed.
We had only been a short time at Kotjiamkombè when it was discovered
that four of our best draft-oxen were stolen by some stranger Damaras.
On being informed of this theft, Kahichenè became exceedingly annoyed,
and even distressed, as he considered us under his special protection. He
immediately dispatched men on their tracks, with strict orders to recover
the oxen, and, if possible, to bring back the thieves. They succeeded
in recapturing all the beasts but one, which the natives had slain and
eaten. With regard to the fate of the rogues, we could never ascertain
any thing with certainty. We were, however, strongly inclined to think
they were all killed, the more so as Kahichenè himself told us that, in
case of their capture, they ought to be punished with death, and coolly
suggested hanging as the most eligible way of ridding the world of such
scoundrels. We, of course, took the liberty to remonstrate with the chief
upon the severity of this measure, but with little or no effect. Indeed,
one man was accidentally found at a distance from our camp in a horribly
mangled state, and, on being brought to us, he stated that he himself,
together with several of his friends, were driving away the cattle,
when they were overtaken by Kahichenè’s men, who immediately attacked
them with their kieries, and only left them when they thought life was
extinct. He had, however, partially recovered, but was completely naked,
having, as is usual on similar occasions, been stripped of every article
of dress. The exterior of his body was nearly covered with blood. The
head was almost double its natural size; indeed, it resembled rather a
lump of mashed flesh; no particular feature could be distinguished, and
his eyes were effectually hidden from view. The sight altogether was
hideous.
Instead of proceeding due north, as was originally proposed, it was
found necessary, in order to avoid Omugundè, to make a considerable
_détour_ to the westward. As Kahichenè, with his tribe, was encamped in
that direction, he invited us to take his werft by the way, to which we
cordially assented. On the day of our departure from Kotjiamkombè, the
chief led the way. A branch of a particular kind of wood (having a small,
red, bitter berry, not unlike that of the mountain-ash) was trailed
before him—a superstitious act, thought to be essential in insuring
success during the pending attack against his mortal enemy.
Before reaching the chief’s kraal, we passed the foot of a very
conspicuous mountain called Ombotodthu. This elevation is remarkable for
its peculiar red stone, which is eagerly sought after by the natives.
Having reduced it to powder, they mix it with fat, when it is used as an
ointment. I was at first struck by its great resemblance to quicksilver
ore, and was led to believe that we had really discovered a mine of that
valuable mineral. However, on considering the harmless effect it had
on the natives, and that, had it been quicksilver, its use would have
produced an opposite result, I came to the conclusion that it was simply
oxide of iron, which has since been confirmed by analysis.
On arriving at Kahichenè’s werft we were well received by our host and
his tribe, from whom we obtained by barter a few head of cattle. Indeed,
we might here have sold all our articles of exchange to great advantage;
but this was not thought advisable, as, in case of the cattle being
lost or stolen, we should have been in a state of complete destitution.
Could we, however, have foreseen the future, our tactics would have been
different; for, as it afterward turned out, this was almost the last
opportunity we had of providing ourselves with live-stock.
By a strange chance, I accidentally became the owner of a percussion
rifle, which had at one time belonged to Hans, but who, years previously,
had disposed of it to a Damara. The latter, however, finding that he
could not obtain a regular supply of caps, offered to exchange it
for a common flint-lock musket. The rifle was a very indifferent and
clumsy-looking concern, and had, if I remember rightly, been manufactured
by Powell, of London. In justice to the maker, however, I must confess
that a man could not possibly wish for a better. While in my possession,
many hundred head of large game, to say nothing of a host of bustards,
geese, ducks, Guinea-fowl, &c., fell to this piece.
Game was abundant in the neighborhood of Kahichenè’s kraal, and Hans
made several successful shots. Very little, however, of what was killed
reached us, for the portion not immediately appropriated by the Damaras
ultimately found its way to them through the medium of our native
servants. In Damara-land the carcasses of all animals, whether wild or
domesticated, are considered public property; therefore, unless the
natives should share their allowances with every stranger that might
choose to intrude himself into their company, a withering “curse” was
supposed to befall them. I have seen the flesh of four zebras, that had
been shot by our party, brought to the camp in a single day, and the next
morning we could not obtain a steak for our breakfast.
The Damaras are the most voracious and improvident creatures in the
world. When they have flesh they gorge upon it night and day, and in
the most disgusting manner, until not a particle is left; and, as a
consequence, they not unfrequently starve for several days together; but
they are so accustomed to this mode of living that it has no injurious
effect on them.
In this hot climate, unless preventives of some kind were adopted, flesh
would, of course, soon become tainted; and as salt, from the difficulty
of conveyance, is exceedingly scarce in Damara-land, the following
expedient is adopted. As soon as the animal is killed, lumps are
indiscriminately cut from the carcass; a knife is plunged into an edge of
one of these lumps, and passed round in a spiral manner, till it arrives
at the middle, when a string of meat, often ten to twenty feet long, is
produced, which is then suspended like festoons to the branches of the
surrounding trees. By cutting the flesh very thin it soon dries, and may
in that state be carried about any length of time. There is considerable
waste in this process, as fully one third of the meat thus jerked is
lost. On such occasions, the natives take care not to forget their own
stomachs. Besides large pots filled with the most delicate morsels,
immense coils may be seen frizzling on the coals in every direction. When
half roasted, they seize one end with their hands, and, applying it to
their mouth, they tug away voraciously, not being over particular as to
mastication. In this way they soon manage to get through a yard or two,
the place of pepper and salt being supplied by ashes attached to the
flesh, which ashes are, moreover, found to be an excellent remedy against
bad digestion.
I frequently observed the daughter of Kahichenè’s favorite wife
sprinkling water over the large oxen as they returned to the werft about
noon to quench their thirst. On such occasions she made use of a small
branch of some kind of berry-tree, such as that which Kahichenè caused
to be trailed after him when wishing to be successful in his attack
on Omugundè. In this instance (as they somewhat poetically expressed
themselves), the aspersion was supposed, should the cattle be stolen,
to have the power of scattering them like drops of water, in order to
confuse their pursuers, and to facilitate their return to the owners.
On the 18th of March we were again _en route_. It was with regret that
we parted with our friendly and hospitable host. Poor Kahichenè we were
doomed never to meet again! A few months after our departure he made an
attack on Omugundè; but, at the very commencement of the fight, and when
every thing promised success, his dastardly followers (as he always had
predicted) left him. But too proud himself to fly, he fell, mortally
wounded, pierced with a shower of arrows.
Being in advance of the wagons, I suddenly came upon an animal which,
though considerably smaller, much resembled a lion in appearance. Under
ordinary circumstances I should certainly have taken it for a young lion;
but I had been formerly given to understand that in this part of Africa
there exists a quadruped which, in regard to shape and color, is like a
lion, but in most other respects totally distinct from it. The beast in
question is said to be nocturnal in its habits, to be timid and harmless,
and to prey, for the most part, on the small species of antelopes. In the
native language it is called Onguirira, and would, as far as I could
see, have answered the description of a puma. As it was going straight
away from me, I did not think it prudent to fire.
Immense quantities of game were now observed, but the country was open
and ill adapted for stalking, and, having no horses, it was difficult to
get within range. A few springboks, however, were killed. I also shot a
hartebeest; but, having been obliged to leave it for about an hour, I
found, on my return, that it had been entirely devoured by vultures; but
as they could not manage to eat the bones, our men consoled themselves
by sucking them. The flesh of the hartebeest is considered extremely
palatable.
The next day we rounded the cones of Omatako; but, to my great
astonishment, the river of that name, although running breast-high on
my visit to it about a fortnight previously, was now perfectly dry.
Fortunately, a pool still remained on its left bank.
The estimate of the Damaras as to the distance between the mountains
Omatako and Omuvereoom, of which mention was recently made, was now
reduced from ten to three long days’ journey. These men still said that
the intervening country was destitute of water. We dared no longer trust
to their conflicting and unsatisfactory accounts; but, in order to enable
us to judge in a measure for ourselves, Galton rode to the neighboring
mountain, Eshuameno, whence, from its advanced and isolated position, a
good view of the country was likely to be obtained. After the absence of
a day and a night, he returned with favorable news. By means of a rough
triangulation, he had ascertained that Omuvereoom could not possibly be
distant above twelve or fourteen hours’ traveling. To the north and west
of Omuvereoom the country appeared as one unbounded plain, only covered
by brushwood. Eastward grass and trees were abundant. This, together with
a timely fall of rain, at once determined us to make the attempt.
On the morning of our departure a bitterly cold wind swept over the
dreary wastes, and suddenly reminded us of the approach of the winter
season. Hitherto a shirt and a pair of trowsers had been enough to
protect our bodies, but this day an addition of thick flannel and a warm
pea-jacket was found to be insufficient.
One evening, as Hans and myself were giving chase to a troop of
giraffes, we were overtaken by darkness, and, in the heat of pursuit,
had completely lost our way. Hans being the most experienced of the two,
I blindly abandoned myself to his instinct and guidance. After a while,
however, it struck me we were actually retracing our steps to Omatako,
and I told him so, but he only laughed at my apprehensions. Still, the
more I considered the matter, the more I became convinced that we were
pursuing a wrong course. In order, therefore, to split the difference, I
proposed to Hans that if in about an hour he did not find any indications
of our whereabouts, he should permit me to act as “pilot” for the same
space of time, and that if I were equally unsuccessful as himself, we
should quietly wait for the return of daylight. Hans was skeptical, and,
shaking his head, grudgingly gave his consent. His hour having elapsed
without gaining the object of our search, I wheeled right round, to his
great disapproval, and walked as hard as I could in an exactly opposite
direction. Singularly enough, only two or three minutes were wanting in
completing my hour when I was suddenly and agreeably surprised to find my
foot in the deep track made by the wheels of the wagons. Nothing could
have been more fortunate, for I struck it precisely at a right angle.
Another half an hour’s walk brought us safe back to our bivouac, where,
over a substantial dinner, we joked Hans on his singular obstinacy. His
pride as a skillful woodsman had received a severe blow, and he would at
intervals shrug his shoulders and repeat broken sentences of, “Well, I am
sure! It’s too bad!” and so forth.
The day after this little adventure we continued our journey, and in the
afternoon found ourselves safe at the foot of the southern extremity
of Omuvereoom, and its sister hill, Ia Kabaka, from which it is only
separated by a narrow valley. We “outspanned” at a small vley, where, for
the first time, I observed the willow-tree—an agreeable reminiscence of
my native land. The water, however, was of the most abominable quality,
being apparently much frequented by wild animals, who had converted the
pool into something like what we see in a farm-yard.
At this place we had a striking instance of the fearful ravages which
termites are capable of committing in an incredibly short time. In the
early part of the day after our arrival, Mr. Galton and Hans started on
foot, with the intention of ascending Omuvereoom. In consequence of a
sudden and distressing pain in my side, I was unable to accompany them,
and, in the hope of obtaining a little ease, made a sort of extempore
couch on the ground, covering it with a plaid. On rising after a while,
I discovered, to my dismay and astonishment, that my bedding had been
completely cut to pieces by the destructive insects, and yet, when I
first laid down, not one was visible.
Early the next morning we pushed on to a large vley, upward of a mile
in length, the finest sheet of standing water we had yet seen in
Damara-land. It was swarming with geese and ducks. The vegetation had a
very tropical appearance; several—to us—new trees and plants, without
thorns, presented themselves, and we began to flatter ourselves that
we had at last passed the boundary-line of those thorny woods which
had so long and pertinaciously harassed us. In this, however, we were
disappointed. The very next day we entered a region far worse than any we
had yet seen, which, indeed, bade fair to stop us altogether. Our poor
cattle were cruelly lacerated, and it was with the utmost difficulty
we succeeded in getting the wagons through. I counted no less than
seven distinct species of thorny trees and bushes, each of which was a
perfect “Wacht-een-bigte,” or “Wait a little,” as the Dutch colonists
very properly call these tormentors. Few individuals have ever traveled
in the more northerly parts of Southern Africa without being greeted
with a friendly salutation of ‘Stop a little, if you please;’ and fewer
still, who have disregarded this gentle hint, ever came away without
first paying a forfeit of some part or other of their dress. Indeed,
the fish-hook principle on which most of the thorns are shaped, and the
strength of each, make them most formidable enemies. At an average, each
prickle will sustain a weight of seven pounds. Now, if the reader will be
pleased to conceive a few scores of these to lay hold of a man at once,
I think it will not be difficult to imagine the consequences. Indeed, on
our return to Barmen, after a few months’ absence, I possessed hardly
a decent article of clothing; and, had not Mr. Hahn kindly taken pity
on my forlorn condition, I am afraid there would soon have been little
difference between me and the savages.
In the course of the day we arrived at a magnificent fountain, called
Otjironjuba—the Calabash—on the side of Omuvereoom. Its source was
situated fully two hundred feet above the base of the mountain, and took
its rise from different spots; but, soon uniting, the stream danced
merrily down the cliffs. These cascades, falling to the plain below,
flowed over a bed of red gravel. A gigantic fig-tree had entwined its
roots round the scattered blocks of stone by the side of Otjironjuba
fountain, its wide and shady branches affording a delicious retreat
during the heat of the noonday sun. It bore an abundance of fruit; but
it was not yet the season for figs. Several half-ripe ones that I opened
contained a large quantity of small ants, and even wasps. Great caution,
therefore, is necessary in eating them.
Otjironjuba was to us a perfect paradise. We enjoyed it the more on
account of the marked contrast it presented to the country we had
previously traversed.
At the foot of the mountain we discovered the remains of a large
Hill-Damara kraal. A considerable extent of land had at one time been
carefully cultivated, and a few young calabashes and pumpkins were still
seen springing up from the parent stock of the preceding season. The day
after our arrival one or two natives came to visit us, and no doubt,
also, for the purpose of ascertaining who and what we were. We of course
entertained them well, and at parting gave them a few trifling presents,
with a request that they would soon return with the remainder of their
tribe, in order that we might buy from them some goats, which, from the
surrounding evidences, they must have possessed in great numbers. The
fresh tracks of a few horned cattle were also to be seen. However, our
friends never came back, nor did we encounter any more of the natives.
While sauntering about the place we stumbled upon several deserted Damara
villages, and our native servants now told us that, after the late attack
on Schmelen’s Hope by Jonker, Kahichenè and his tribe had fled with the
remainder of their cattle to this secluded spot; and yet, a short time
previously, they had positively asserted that the country was impassable
for man and beast! They, moreover, informed us that several bloody
fights, or rather massacres, had at that time taken place between the
contending parties; and that whenever a man, woman, or child was met, and
the deed could be perpetrated with impunity, they were cruelly murdered.
These sanguinary outrages were sometimes inflicted, they said, by the
Damaras, and at others by the Hill-Damaras.
I climbed to the top of the Omuvereoom, whence I had a very extensive
view of the country to the eastward; but, excepting a few periodical
water-courses which originated in the sides of the mountain, nothing
but an immense unbroken bush was to be seen. It was in vain that I
strained my eyes to catch a glimpse of Omanbondè, which we were told lay
only about five days’ journey hence, and at the northern extremity of
Omuvereoom.
Elephants occasionally visited this neighborhood, and even breed near a
fountain somewhat farther to the northward.
After having spent a couple of days very pleasantly at Otjironjuba
fountain, we for a short time followed the course of the rivulet which
has its rise there; but it was soon lost in a marsh.
On the second day of our departure we came, unobserved, upon a few
Bushmen, engaged in digging for wild roots, and succeeded in capturing
a man and woman, whom, with some difficulty, we persuaded to show us
the water. The dialect of these people was so different to any we
had yet heard, that, notwithstanding our two excellent interpreters,
we could with difficulty understand them. However, by a good deal of
cross-questioning, we managed to make out that they had both been to
Omanbondè, which they called Saresab; that the “water was as large as the
sky,” and that hippopotami existed there. The man, moreover, said that
he would conduct us to the lake; but this was only a _ruse_, for in the
course of the night both he and his wife absconded.
Our doubts and anxiety increased as we approached nearer and nearer the
inland sea, and all our thoughts were concentrated in the single idea of
the lake. The Bushman’s story of the water being “as large as the sky”
wrought greatly on our expectation.
“Well, Andersson, what should you suppose this lake’s greatest length to
be, eh?” said Galton. “Surely it can not cover less than fifteen miles
anyhow; and as for its breadth, it is, no doubt, very considerable, for
the Hottentots declare that if you look at a man from the opposite shore
he appears no bigger than a crow.”
It would have been well for us had we been less sanguine.
As we journeyed on a course somewhat parallel with Omuvereoom, we fell
in with a sort of vley river—if river it could be called, since it
consisted alternately of dry, open spaces and deep gulleys. Both banks of
this peculiar water-course were hemmed in by one vast thorn-jungle, which
seemed to defy the passage of man or beast. It was doubly fortunate,
therefore, that we met this river, as its sides served as a good and open
road, while a plentiful supply of water was afforded by the occasional
pools. It was here, at last, that we arrived at some Damara villages,
on the fifth day after leaving Otjironjuba. At first the natives tried
to run away; but we captured a few women, which soon induced the men
to return. These people had never before seen a white man; and our
sudden appearance, therefore, created no small astonishment, not to say
consternation. But of all our property, nothing amused them more than the
sight of a looking-glass. On finding that the mirror faithfully reflected
the smallest of their motions or gesticulations, they became convulsed
with laughter; and some of them were so excited as to throw themselves
on the ground, pressing their hands against their stomachs. Others would
approach with their faces to the glass as close as they could, then
suddenly turn it round, fully expecting somebody at its back. It is a
great pity that the Damaras are such unmitigated scoundrels, for they are
full of fun and merriment. Give them a “yard of meat” and a bucket of
water, and they are the happiest creatures on the face of the earth.
After some parleying, a man agreed to guide us to the lake. An
afternoon’s farther traveling brought us to a second werft, the captain
of which was the jolliest and the most amusing Damara that we ever
saw before or since. He mimicked the figure and the actions of the
hippopotamus so admirably that we should never have mistaken the animal,
even had we not known a word of the language. He also gave us an amusing
and laughable account of the people to the north.
One day more, and the goal of our hopes and anxieties would be realized!
We carefully examined our Mackintosh punt to see that it was sound, as we
fully purposed to spend a few weeks on the shores of Omanbondè, in order
to enjoy some fishing and shooting.
By this time we had lost sight of Omuvereoom, which gradually dwindled
into a mere sand-ridge, and was now identified with the plain. The vley
river just mentioned, which had so long befriended us, we also left
behind, and were now traveling across a very sandy tract of country.
Fortunately, though the bushes were very thick, only a few were thorny.
Moreover, their wood, which was quite new to us, was of so brittle
a nature that, although trees from five to six inches in diameter
repeatedly obstructed our path, our ponderous vehicles crushed them to
the ground like so many rotten sticks. A European can form no conception
of the impracticable country one has to travel over in these parts, and
the immense difficulties that must be surmounted. To give a faint idea
of the obstructions of this kind of traveling, we will suppose a person
suddenly placed at the entrance of a primeval forest of unknown extent,
never trodden by the foot of man, the haunt of savage beasts, and with
soil as yielding as that of an English sand-down; to this must be added a
couple of ponderous vehicles, as large as the coal-vans met with in the
streets of London, only a great deal stouter, to each of which are yoked
sixteen or twenty refractory, half-trained oxen. Let him then be told,
“Through yonder wood lies your road; nothing is known of it. Make your
way as well as you can; but remember, your cattle will perish if they do
not get water in the course of two or three days.”
No greater calamity could possibly befall us than the breaking of an
axle-tree at a distance from water. Therefore, every time the wagons
struck against a tree, or when the wheels mounted on a stone several feet
in height, from which they descended with a crash like thunder, I would
pull up abruptly, and hold my breath till all danger was over, when a
weight like that of the nightmare fell from my mind. However, in the
course of time, we became tolerably accustomed to the hazards that beset
us, and looked almost with indifference on the dangers which constantly
threatened destruction to our conveyances.
About noon on the 5th of April we were rapidly approaching Omanbondè, but
oh, how were we disappointed! My heart beat violently with excitement.
The sleepy motion of the oxen, as they toiled through the heavy sand,
being far too slow for my eagerness and excited imagination, I proceeded
considerably in advance of the wagons, with about half a dozen Damaras,
when all at once the country became open, and I found myself on some
rising ground, gently sloping toward the bed of what I thought to be a
dry water-course.
“There,” suddenly exclaimed one of the natives—“there is Omanbondè!”
“Omanbondè!” I echoed, almost in despair; “but where, in the name of
heaven, is the water?”
I could say no more, for my heart failed me, and I sat down till the
wagons came up; when, pointing to the dry river-bed, I told Galton that
he saw _the_ lake before him.
“Nonsense!” he replied; “it is only the end or tail of it which you see
there.”
After having descended into the bed, we continued to travel, at a
rapid pace, about a mile in a westerly direction, when, at a bend, we
discovered a large patch of green reeds. At this sight a momentary ray of
hope brightened up every countenance; but the next instant it vanished,
for we found that the natives were actually searching for _water_ among
the rushes!
The truth at last dawned upon us. We were indeed at Omanbondè—the lake
of hippopotami! We all felt utter prostration of heart. For a long while
we were unable to give utterance to our feelings. We first looked at the
reeds before us, then at each other in mute dismay and astonishment. A
dried-up vley, very little more than a mile in extent, and a patch of
reeds, was the only reward for months of toil and anxiety!