Depart from Okamabuti.—Visit from a Lion.—Amulets.—Revisit
Baboon Fountain.—Otjikoto; a wonderful Freak of Nature;
Remarkable Cavern.—Natives unacquainted with the Art
of Swimming.—Fish abundant in Otjikoto; frequented by
immense Flocks of Doves.—Panic of the Ovambo on seeing
Birds shot on the Wing.—Arrive at Omutjamatunda.—A greasy
Welcome.—Ducks and Grouse numerous.—Author finds himself
somewhat “overdone.”—“Salt-pans.”—All “look Blue.”—A second
Paradise.—Hospitable Reception.—Vegetation.—People live in
Patriarchal Style.—Population.—Enormous Hogs.—Arrive at the
Residence of the redoubtable Nangoro.
In conversation with the Ovambo, we learned that Nangoro’s werft was
distant at least a fortnight’s steady travel. We therefore felt anxious
for the speedy return of the trading parties, in order that we might
prosecute or journey; but they tarried longer than we had expected. By
degrees, however, they reassembled at Tjopopa’s werft, having brought
about two hundred head of cattle, the result of their trade.
On the 22d of May Chikor’onkombè, their leader, announced that every
thing was in readiness for a start; and, as we ourselves had long been
prepared, the caravan set out that very afternoon.
We bivouacked at one of Tjopopa’s cattle-posts, only a few hours’ journey
from Okamabuti, and had just finished dinner, when all at once our people
rushed toward the fire with cries of “Ongeama! ongeama!”
And so it was. A lion had, it seems, been crouched in the bush within
twenty paces of our camp, in readiness to spring on the cattle that
were scattered about; but as one of the men who was in search of fuel
had fortunately discovered him, the beast retreated. He was evidently
much displeased at being thus foiled, and kept growling in the distance
during the remainder of the night. The following morning, on meeting one
of the Ovambo, I inquired whether they also had been troubled by the
lion, to which he only replied by pointing to a piece of wood—a charm of
some kind—hung round his neck, as much as to say, “Do you think that any
thing can hurt us or our cattle, with this in our possession?”
The Damaras have also great faith in amulets, consisting generally of
the teeth of lions and hyænas, entrails of animals, pieces of certain
kinds of wood, and so forth. Our native servants, indeed, before leaving
Okamabuti, had purchased, for a few iron beads, several charms from
Tjopopa’s favorite wife, and, thus provided, conceived themselves proof
against every danger and calamity.
On the 24th we again found ourselves at Otjikango (“Baboon Fountain”).
By this time our caravan was completed, as straggling parties of natives
had continued to join us; and we found to our astonishment that,
including ourselves, we mustered one hundred and seventy souls. Of this
number were no less than seventy or eighty Damara women, bent on various
speculations—some in hope of obtaining employment, some to get husbands,
and others with a view of disposing of their shell bodices, spoken of in
chapter four. The latter, as we afterward found, are taken to pieces by
the Ovambo women, and worn in strings round the waist. In exchange, the
Damaras receive beads, tobacco, corn, &c.
The country between Okamabuti and Otjikango we found well watered with
copious springs, and covered with a rank vegetation. Otjikango itself,
being situated in a valley between high and steep hills, was not
unpicturesque. It was well supplied with water, which in several places
oozed out of a kind of vley or marsh—in the rainy season undoubtedly a
little lake. We lost no time here, but were again on the move at an early
hour on the succeeding morning.
After a day and a half travel we suddenly found ourselves on the brink of
Otjikoto, the most extraordinary chasm it was ever my fortune to see. It
is scooped, so to say, out of the solid limestone rock, and, though on a
thousand times larger scale, not unlike the _Elv-gryta_ one so commonly
meets in Scandinavia. The form of Otjikoto is cylindrical; its diameter
upward of four hundred feet, and its depth, as we ascertained by the
lead-line, two hundred and fifteen—that is, at the sides, for we had no
means of plumbing the middle, but had reason to believe the depth to be
pretty uniform throughout. To about thirty feet of the brink it is filled
with water.[25]
[Illustration: OTJIKOTO FOUNTAIN.]
Otjikoto, “one of the most wonderful of Nature’s freaks,” is situated
at the northern extremity of those broken hills which take their rise
in the neighborhood of Okamabuti, and in the midst of a dense coppice.
So effectually is it hidden from view, that a person might pass within
fifty paces of it without being aware of its existence. Owing to its
steep and rugged sides, cattle have not access to the water; and even a
man can only approach this enormous well by means of a steep and slippery
footpath. No perceptible difference could be observed in the height of
the water; and the Ovambo informed us that, as long as they and their
fathers remembered, it had always been the same. It is difficult to
imagine how or whence Otjikoto receives its supplies. A spacious cavern,
only visible and accessible from the water, may possibly be the grand
reservoir.
After gratifying our curiosity, Galton and myself, standing in need of
a bath, plunged head foremost into the profound abyss. The natives were
utterly astounded. Before reaching Otjikoto, they had told us that if
a man or beast was so unfortunate as to fall into the pool, he would
inevitably perish. We attributed this to superstitious notions; but the
mystery was now explained. The art of swimming was totally unknown in
these regions. The water was very cold, and, from its great depth, the
temperature is likely to be the same throughout the year.
We swam into the cavern to which allusion has just been made. The
transparency of the water, which was of the deepest sea-green, was
remarkable; and the effect produced in the watery mirror by the
reflection of the crystallized walls and roof of the cavern appeared very
striking and beautiful. In this mysterious spot, two owls and a great
number of bats had taken up their abode. On approaching some of the
latter, which I saw clinging to the rocks, I found, to my surprise, that
they were dead, and had probably been so for many years; at least they
had all the appearance of mummies.
Otjikoto contained an abundance of fish somewhat resembling perch, but
those we caught were not much larger than one’s finger. One day we had
several scores of these little creatures for dinner, and very palatable
they proved.
In the morning and evening Otjikoto was visited by an incredible number
of doves, some of which were most delicately and beautifully marked. On
such occasions the wood resounded with their cooing; but when disturbed,
as they frequently were, by the invasion of a hawk, the noise caused by
their precipitate flight was like that of a sudden rush of wind.
Many Bushmen resided near Otjikoto, and, as every where else in these
regions, they lived on excellent terms with the Ovambo, to whom they
brought copper ore for sale, which they obtained from the neighboring
hills. Indeed, as our acquaintance with the Ovambo increased, we were
more and more favorably impressed with their character. They treated all
men equally well, and even the so much despised Hottentots ate out of the
same dish and smoked out of the same pipe as themselves.
We only staid a day at Otjikoto. The next morning, after a few hours’
travel, we lost sight of all landmarks, and were now making our way
through dense thorn coppices, which harassed and delayed us exceedingly.
To say nothing of tearing our clothes to rags, they now and then
extracted some article from the saddle-bags. Of the regular Ovambo
caravan route all traces had been obliterated, and we now first began
to understand and appreciate the difficulties that would have beset us
had we tried to prosecute the journey alone. Indeed, without the most
experienced guides, it would have been an utterly hopeless task. The
watering-places, moreover, were very few, and scattered over an immense
extent of country, which was dreary in the extreme.
Shortly after leaving Otjikoto, and when walking in advance of the
caravan, in company with several of the head men of the Ovambo, in the
hope of procuring some specimens of natural history, I suddenly flushed a
brace of sand-grouse, both of which I brought to the ground. The effect
produced on my companions was ludicrous in the extreme. They looked as if
they had received an electric shock, and stood aghast, with their mouths
wide open. On requesting them to pick up the dead birds, they absolutely
refused, and seemed petrified with fear. Their conduct was the more
singular, as, on our first meeting, they had given us to understand that,
through the Portuguese, with whom they had indirect intercourse, they
were well acquainted with fire-arms, but that they were not afraid of
them, as, by simply blowing in the muzzle, they lost all power.
In the afternoon of the 29th of May we reached Omutjamatunda, the
first cattle-post belonging to the Ovambo. On account of this being
harvest-time, our friend Chikor’onkombè did not expect to find many of
his countrymen here; but he was mistaken, for it swarmed with people as
well as cattle. The latter I estimated at no less than from three to four
thousand.
Immediately on our arrival we were surrounded by great numbers of
inquisitive people, who looked upon the European portion of our party
as some _raræ aves_. They appeared to be gratified at seeing their
countrymen safe home again, and expressed much admiration at the fine
herd of sleek cattle they had brought with them.
The way of welcoming friends among the Ovambo is somewhat singular. In
our case, after every one was seated an immense dish of fresh butter
was produced, when the head man of the post besmeared the face and
breast of each individual with an abundance of the unction. The ceremony
being satisfactorily performed on their own friends and kinsmen, it
became evident that they contemplated the same agreeable operation on
ourselves. On seeing what was coming, Galton held out both his hands, and
exclaimed, “Oh! for goodness’ sake, if the thing is necessary, be it at
least moderate!” His request was granted, for he escaped with a brush or
two across the face, but it created much jest and mirth among the company.
At Omutjamatunda there is a most copious fountain, situated on some
rising ground, and commanding a splendid prospect of the surrounding
country. It was a refreshing sight to stand on the borders of the
fountain, which was luxuriantly overgrown with towering reeds, and
sweep with the eye the extensive plain encircling the base of the hill,
frequented as it was not only by vast herds of domesticated cattle, but
with the lively springbok and troops of striped zebras. If the monotony
of our dreary wanderings had not thus occasionally been relieved, I do
not know how we should have borne up against our constant trials and
difficulties.
In order to ascertain the proficiency of the Ovambo in archery, we had
shooting-matches while at Omutjamatunda. The result proved that they were
inferior in this respect even to the Damaras, who, as already said, are
wretched marksmen. The poor despised Bushmen beat both tribes out and
out in the use of the bow, which, however, is to be expected, since they
subsist in a great measure by the chase.
During the two days we remained at Omutjamatunda we amused ourselves with
shooting ducks and birds of the grouse kind. Both were abundant, but
more especially the latter, which literally obscured the air with their
numbers every morning and evening, when they came to quench their thirst.
It is, however, only in the dry season, as in the present instance, that
they are observed in such astonishing multitudes. They usually go far in
search of food, and although a pair only may be seen at starting in quest
of water, yet, as they draw nearer to the pool, they describe wide and
continued circles over it, and thus, by giving time for others to arrive,
increase their numbers.
There is a great variety among the grouse. Thus, for instance, in the
course of a single morning, and in about half a dozen discharges, I have
bagged grouse of five different species, and I have procured altogether
eight or nine; but none of them are good eating. They chiefly live on
hard, indigestible seeds, often of an oily substance, which gives to the
meat a toughness and an unsavory flavor. They are best when made into
pies.
I have already mentioned that we had one morning been suddenly apprised
of the approach of winter by an intensely bleak wind. Since then the cold
had gradually increased, and we suffered much in the night-time. Hitherto
the abundance of fuel we had found every where enabled us to keep up a
roaring fire, which in some degree shielded us from the night air. At
Omutjamatunda, however, dry wood was scarce, because the place was the
permanent residence of a great number of natives, and, as a consequence,
the cold was painfully disagreeable.
The morning before leaving Omutjamatunda a curious accident occurred to
me. On lying down at night alongside a small fire, the air was quite
calm, but toward morning a strong and cutting wind arose. To protect
myself against the chilling blast, I was obliged to pull the blanket
over my head, and was thus slumbering in happy ignorance of every thing.
After a time an agreeable sensation of warmth and comfort stole over
me, and the most exquisite visions floated before my imagination. By
degrees, however, this pleasant feeling was converted into uneasiness,
and ultimately into absolute pain. I was writhing in agonies. By a
violent effort I roused myself out of the trance, and, starting to my
feet, discovered that the coverlet was ignited. A spark had fallen on it,
and, being composed of quilted cotton, it had for a long time been slowly
smouldering, which accounted for the agreeable feeling I had at first
experienced. On the fire coming into contact with my body-linen, however,
the lulling sensation was changed into one of torment. Hans had had a
similar accident at Schmelen’s Hope, on which occasion almost the whole
of the skins, &c., spread beneath him were consumed before he was aware
of what had happened. From that day forward, as may be supposed, I always
made my bed far away from the fire.
On the last day of May we were again on the move. Messengers were started
in advance to apprise _King_ Nangoro of our approach, and to convey to
him a few trifling presents. They would probably reach his capital in
about two days.
In the course of the first day’s journey we traversed an immense hollow,
called Etosha, covered with saline incrustations, and having wooded and
well-defined borders. Such places are in Africa designated “salt-pans.”
The surface consisted of a soft, greenish-yellow clay soil, strewed with
fragments of small sandstone of a purple tint. Strange to relate, we
had scarcely been ten minutes on this ground when the lower extremities
of ourselves and cattle became of the same purple color. In some rainy
seasons, the Ovambo informed us, the locality was flooded, and had all
the appearance of a lake; but now it was quite dry, and the soil strongly
impregnated with salt. Indeed, close in shore, this commodity was to be
had of a very pure quality.
At night we bivouacked on the southern extremity of a boundless savanna,
called Otjihako-tja-Muteya, totally destitute of trees, and even bushes.
The natives were unable to give us an idea of its real extent; but, as
far as we could learn, it reached to the sea on the west. Like Etosha, it
had distinct and wooded borders.
The second of June will ever be remembered by us. On the afternoon of
that day we first set eye on the beautiful and fertile plains of Ondonga,
the country of the Ovambo. Vain would be any attempt to describe the
sensations of delight and pleasure experienced by us on that memorable
occasion, or to give an idea of the enchanting panoramic scene that
all at once opened on our view. Suffice it to say that, instead of the
eternal jungles, where every moment we were in danger of being dragged
out of our saddles by the merciless thorns, the landscape now presented
an apparently boundless field of yellow corn, dotted with numerous
peaceful homesteads, and bathed in the soft light of a declining tropical
sun. Here and there, moreover, arose gigantic, wide-spreading, and
dark-foliaged timber and fruit trees, while innumerable fan-like palms,
either singly or in groups, completed the picture. To us it was a perfect
elysium, and well rewarded us for every former toil and disappointment.
My friend, who had traveled far and wide, confessed he had never seen any
thing that could be compared to it. Often since have I conjured up to my
imagination this scene, and have thought it might not inaptly be compared
to stepping out of a hot, white, and shadowless road into a park fresh
with verdure, and cool with the umbrage cast down by groups of reverend
trees.
The first dwelling that lay in our path was that of old Naitjo, one of
the chief men of our trading caravan, who, after having feasted us on
such fare as the country produced (among which was a dish of hot dough
steeped in melted butter), conducted us over his extensive establishment,
comprising his harem, his children, granaries, and so forth. Timbo was in
ecstasies with the country and its hospitable inhabitants, and declared
that it was as like as two peas to his own native land.
Another hour’s travel brought us to the residence of our guide
Chikor’onkombè, where we remained two nights and a day to rest our weary
animals. Poor creatures! they had had no water for two entire days, and
the consequence was that during the first night they broke out of the
inclosures and strayed far away in search of it.
On the 4th we again set forward. The aspect of the country was still
characterized by the greatest abundance, and the trees became even more
numerous.
Nearly all produced edible fruit, though some were not yet ripe. The
trees, moreover, were on a grander scale than heretofore. One kind in
particular—that mentioned as bearing a fruit somewhat resembling an
apple—attained to a most astonishing size. Indeed, the branches of one
that we measured spread over a space of ground one hundred and forty-four
feet in diameter, or four hundred and thirty-two in circumference!
The palms growing hereabout—the stems of which, before they began to
branch out, often rose to fifty and sixty feet—were, to all appearance,
of the same kind as that we had seen about two hundred miles to the
southward; but the fruit proved very good. When slightly soaked in
water—which, by-the-by, is the best way of eating it—it tasted precisely
like gingerbread.
There appeared to be no roads of any description. Fortunately, however,
the harvest had just been completed, or nearly so, and without damage
to the owners we were therefore enabled to cross the fields as the crow
flies.
Two different kinds of grain we found indigenous to this country, viz.,
the common Caffre-corn, said to resemble the Egyptian “doura,” and
another sort, very small grained, not unlike canary-seed, and akin, I
believe, to the “badjera” of India. This is the more nutritious of the
two, and, when well ground, produces excellent flour.
The stalk of both these kinds of grain is stout—the thickness of a
sugar-cane—some eight or nine feet high, and juicy and sweet to the
taste, which has no doubt given rise to a belief in the existence of the
sugar-cane in many of the interior parts of Africa. When the grain is
ripe the ear is cut off, and the remainder is left to the cattle, which
devour it greedily.
Besides grain, the Ovambo cultivate calabashes, watermelons, pumpkins,
beans, peas, &c. They also plant tobacco. When ripe, the leaves and
stalks are collected, and mashed together in a hollow piece of wood
by means of a heavy pole. The tobacco is, however, of a very inferior
quality; so much so, that our Damaras, who had a mania for the weed,
refused to smoke it.
There are no towns or villages in Ovambo-land, but the people, like
the patriarchs of old, live in separate families. Each homestead is
situated in the middle of a corn-field, and surrounded by high and stout
palisades. The natives were obliged to take this precaution in order to
guard against the sudden attacks of a neighboring hostile tribe, which
kept constantly harassing them. Once or twice the Ovambo attempted to
retaliate, but without success. The tribe just mentioned is the only one
with whom this naturally peaceable people are ever at variance. If not
previously provoked they interfere with no one.
We were anxious to form some sort of estimate of the density of the
population, but this was no easy matter. However, by counting the
houses in a certain extent of country, and taking the average number of
individuals to each, we came to the conclusion that there were about a
hundred persons to every square mile.
With the exception of a few cows and goats, no cattle were seen about the
dwellings of the natives, yet we knew them to be possessed of vast herds.
A general scarcity of water and pasturage in Ondonga compelled them to
send the oxen away to distant parts. They also breed hogs, which, from
their mischievous propensities, are always sent to a distance during the
time of harvest. These animals, they assured us, attain to an enormous
size. By all accounts, indeed, they must be perfect monsters. And there
can be little doubt of the fact, for captains of vessels, who are
accustomed to trade with the natives of the West Coast, also speak of a
gigantic race of swine.
In the afternoon of the second day after leaving Chikor’onkombè’s werft
we came in sight of the residence of the redoubtable Nangoro. We were
not, however, allowed to enter the royal inclosures, but a clump of trees
was pointed out to us as our encamping place.
While arranging our baggage, &c., Chikor’onkombè proceeded to inform his
royal master of our arrival, and to state the quantity and quality of
the intended presents. Before making his obeisance to his majesty, the
Eastern custom of taking off the sandals was carefully attended to. On
his return he brought a man carrying some fire, with orders to extinguish
ours, and to relight it with that from the king’s own hearth.