IV

A transfigured cattle-pen--Emerson the hub of Concord--His

incorrigible modesty--Grocery-store sages--To make common

men feel more like Emerson than he did--His personal

appearance--His favorite gesture--A glance like the reveille

of a trumpet--The creaking boots--"The muses are in the

woods"--Emerson could not read Hawthorne--Typical versus

individual--Benefit from child-prattle--Concord-grape Bull--

Sounds of distant battle--Politics, sociology, and grape-

culture--The great white fence--Richard Henry Stoddard--A

country youth of genius--Whipple's Attic salt--An unwritten

romance--The consulship retires literature--Louisa's

tragedy--Hard hit--The spiritual sphere of good men--Nearer

than in the world--The return of the pilgrim.

My father's first look at "The Wayside" had been while snow was still

on the ground, and he had reported to his wife that it resembled a

cattle-pen.

But the family advent was effected in June, and although a heavy rain

had fallen while the domestic impedimenta were in transit, wetting the

mattresses and other exposed furniture, yet when the summer sun came out

things began to mend. My mother and Una came a day ahead of the others,

and with the help of carpenters and upholsterers, and a neighboring

Irishman and his wife for cleaning and moving purposes, they soon got

human order into the place of savage chaos. The new carpet was down in

the study, the walls had been already papered and the wood-work grained,

the pictures were hung in their places, and the books placed on their

shelves. By the time the father, the boy, the baby, and the nurse drove

up in the hot afternoon a home had been created for their reception.

Mr. Emerson was, and he always remained, the hub round which the wheel

of Concord's fortunes slowly and contentedly revolved. He was at

this time between forty-five and fifty years old, in the prime of

his beneficent powers. He had fulfilled the promise of his unique

youth--obeyed the voice at eve, obeyed at prime. The sweet austerity of

his nature had been mellowed by human sorrows--the loss of his brothers

and of his eldest son; he had the breadth and poise that are given by

knowledge of foreign lands, and friendships with the best men in them;

he had the unstained and indomitable independence of a man who has

always avowed his belief, and never failed to be true to each occasion

for truth; he had the tranquillity of faith and insight, and he was

alert with that immortal curiosity for noble knowledge the fruit of

which enriches his writings. Upon his modestly deprecating brows was

already set the wreath of a world-wide fame, and yet every village

farmer and store-keeper, and every child, found in his conversation the

wisdom and companionship suited to his needs, and was made to feel

that his own companionship was a valued gift. Emerson becomes more

extraordinary the further we get away from him in years; illustrating

the truth which Landor puts into the mouth of Barrow in one of his

Imaginary Conversations, that "No very great man ever reached the

standard of his greatness in the crowd of his contemporaries: this hath

always been reserved for the secondary." The wealth contained in his

essays has only begun to be put in general circulation, and the harvest

of his poetry is still more remote; while the sincere humility of the

man himself, who was the best incarnate example of many of his ideals,

still puzzles those critics who believe every one must needs be inferior

to his professions.

"Though I am fond of writing and of public speaking," said Emerson, "I

am a very poor talker, and for the most part prefer silence"; and he

went on to compare himself in this respect with Alcott, "the prince of

conversers." Alcott was undoubtedly the prince of fluency, and

Emerson rarely, in private dialogue, ventured to string together many

consecutive sentences; but the things he did say, on small occasion or

great, always hit the gold. On being appealed to, or when his turn came,

he would hang a moment in the wind, and then pay off before the

breeze of thought with an accuracy and force that gave delight with

enlightenment. The form was often epigrammatic, but the air with which

it was said beautifully disclaimed any epigrammatic consciousness or

intention. It was, rather, "I am little qualified to speak adequately,

but this, at least, does seem to me to be true." In the end, therefore,

as the interlocutor thought it all over, he was perhaps surprised to

discover that, little in quantity as Emerson may have said during the

talk, he had yet said more than any one else in substance. But it may be

admitted that he was even better in listening than in speech; his

look, averted but attentive, with a smile which seemed to postpone full

development to the moment when his companion should have uttered the

expected apple of gold in the picture of silver, was subtly stimulating

to the latter's intellect, and prompted him to outdo himself. His

questions were often revelations, discovering truth which the other

only then perceived, and thus beguiling him into admiration of his own

supposed intelligence. In this, as in other things, he acted upon the

precept that it is more blessed to give than to receive gratification;

he never seemed to need any other happiness than that of imparting it.

And so selflessly and insensibly were the riches of his mind and nature

communicated to the community that innocent little Concord could not

quite help believing that its wealth and renown were somehow a creation

of its own. The loafers in Walcott & Holden's grocery store were, in

their own estimation, of heroic stature, because of the unegoistic

citizen who dwelt over yonder among the pines. Emerson was a great man,

no doubt; but then he was no more than their own confessed equal, or

inferior!

This will and power to secularize himself is perhaps Emerson's unique

attribute. It is comparatively easy to stand on mountain-tops and to

ride Pegasus; but how many of those competent to such feats could at the

same time sit cheek by jowl with hucksters and teamsters without a trace

of condescension, and while rubbing shoulders with the rabble of the

street in town-meeting, speak without arrogance the illuminating and

deciding word? This, at last, is the true democracy that levels up

instead of down. An Emerson who can make common men feel more like

Emerson than he himself did is the kind of man we need to bring America

up to her ideals.

Emerson was ungainly in build, with narrow, sloping shoulders, large

feet and hands, and a projecting carriage of the head, which enhanced

the eagle-like expression of his glance and features. His head was

small; it was covered (in 1852) with light brown hair, fine and

straight; he was cleanshaven save for a short whisker; the peaked ends

of an uncomfortable collar appeared above the folds of a high, black

silk stock. His long-skirted black coat was commonly buttoned up; he

wore, on different occasions, a soft felt hat or a high silk one, the

latter, from use, having become in a manner humanized. On the street he

kept his face up as he walked along, and perceived the approach of an

acquaintance afar off, and the wise, slow smile gleamed about his mouth

as he drew near. "How do you do?" was sometimes his greeting; but more

often, "Good-bye!" or "Good-night!"--an original and more sensible

greeting. Though ungainly in formation, he was not ungraceful in bearing

and action; there was a fitness and harmony in his manifestations

even on the physical plan. On the lecture platform he stood erect and

unadorned, his hands hanging folded in front, save when he changed the

leaf of his manuscript, or emphasized his words with a gesture: his

customary one, simple but effective, was to clinch his right fist,

knuckles upward, the arm bent at the elbow, then a downward blow of the

forearm, full of power bridled. It was accompanied by such a glance

of the eyes as no one ever saw except from Emerson: a glance like the

reveille of a trumpet. Yet his eyes were not noticeably large, and their

color was greenish-gray; but they were well set and outlined in his

head, and, more than is the case with most men, they were the windows

of his soul. Wendell Phillips had an eloquent and intrepid eye, but it

possessed nothing approaching the eloquence and spiritual influence of

Emerson's. In every Lyceum course in Concord, Emerson lectured once or

twice, and the hall was always filled. One night he had the misfortune

to wear a pair of abominably creaking boots; every slightest change of

posture would be followed by an outcry from the sole-leather, and

the audience soon became nervously preoccupied in expecting them. The

sublimest thoughts were mingled with these base material accompaniments.

But there was nothing to be done, unless the lecturer would finish his

lecture in his stocking-feet, and we were fain to derive a fortuitous

inspiration from observing the unfaltering meekness with which our

philosopher accepted the predicament. I have forgotten the subject of

the lecture on that occasion, but the voice of the boots will always

sound in my memory.

In his own house Emerson shone with essential hospitality, and yet he

wonderfully effaced himself; any one but he might hold the centre of

the stage. You felt him everywhere, but if you would see him, you must

search the wings. He sat in his chair, bending forward, one leg crossed

over the other, his elbows often supported on his knee; his legs were

rather long and slender, and he had a way, after crossing his leg, of

hitching the instep of that foot under the calf of the other leg, so

that he seemed braided up. He seldom stood in a room, or paced to and

fro, as my father was fond of doing. But the two men were almost equally

addicted to outdoor walking, and both preferred to walk alone. Emerson

formed the habit of betaking himself to Walden woods, which extended to

within a mile or so of his door; thence would he return with an exalted

look, saying, "The muses are in the woods to-day"; and no one who has

read his Woodnotes can doubt that he found them there. Occasionally

Channing, Thoreau, or my father would be his companion; Alcott preferred

to busy himself about his rustic fences and summer-houses, or to sit

the centre of a circle and converse, as he called it; meaning to

soliloquize, looking round from face to face with unalterable faith and

complacency.

My father read Emerson with enjoyment; though more and more, as he

advanced in life, he was disposed to question the expediency of stating

truth in a disembodied form; he preferred it incarnate, as it appears in

life and in story. But he could not talk to Emerson; his pleasure in his

society did not express itself in that form. Emerson, on the other hand,

assiduously cultivated my father's company, and, contrary to his general

habit, talked to him continuously; but he could not read his romances;

he admitted that he had never been able to finish one of them. He loved

to observe him; to watch his silence, which was full of a kind of speech

which he was able to appreciate; "Hawthorne rides well his horse of the

night!" My father was Gothic; Emerson was Roman and Greek. But each was

profoundly original and independent. My father was the shyer and more

solitary of the two, and yet persons in need of human sympathy were able

to reach a more interior region in him than they could in Emerson. For

the latter's thought was concerned with types and classes, while the

former had the individual touch. He distrusted rules, but had faith

in exceptions and idiosyncrasies. Emerson was nobly and magnanimously

public; my father, exquisitely and inevitably private; together they met

the needs of nearly all that is worthy in human nature.

Emerson rose upon us frequently during our early struggles with our

new abode, like a milder sun; the children of the two families became

acquainted, the surviving son, Edward, two years my elder, falling to

my share. But Emerson himself also became my companion, with a humanity

which to-day fills me with grateful wonder. I remember once being taken

by him on a long walk through the sacred pine woods, and on another

occasion he laid aside the poem or the essay he was writing to entertain

Una in his study, whither she had gone alone and of her own initiative

to make him a call! It is easy to compliment a friend upon his children,

but how many of us will allow themselves to be caught and utilized by

them in this fashion? But Emerson's mind was so catholic, so humble, and

so deep that I doubt not he derived benefit even from child-prattle. His

wife rivalled him in hospitality, though her frail health disabled her

from entering into the physical part of social functions with the same

fortitude; in these first months we were invited to a party where we

were fellow-guests with all the other children of Concord. There they

were, their mothers with them, and everything in sight that a child at

a party could require. My new friend Edward mounted me on his pony, and

his father was at hand to catch me when I fell off. Such things sound

incredible, but they are true. A great man is great at all times, and

all over.

Thoreau, Channing, and Alcott were also visible to us at this time, but

of none of them do I find any trace in my memory; though I know, as

a matter of fact, that Channing and my father once permitted me to

accompany them on a walk round the country roads, which inadvertently

prolonged itself to ten miles, and I knew what it was to feel

foot-weary. But another neighbor of ours, hardly less known to fame,

though in a widely different line of usefulness, makes a very distinct

picture in my mind; this was Ephraim Wales Bull, the inventor of the

Concord grape. He was as eccentric as his name; but he was a genuine

and substantive man, and my father took a great liking to him, which was

reciprocated. He was short and powerful, with long arms, and a big head

covered with bushy hair and a jungle beard, from which looked out a pair

of eyes singularly brilliant and penetrating. He had brains to think

with, as well as strong and skilful hands to work with; he personally

did three-fourths of the labor on his vineyard, and every grape-vine had

his separate care. He was married and had three children, amiable

but less interesting than himself. He had, also, a tremendous temper,

evidenced by his heavy and high-arched eyebrows, and once in a while he

let slip upon his helpers in the vineyard this formidable wrath, which

could easily be heard in our peaceful precincts, like sounds of distant

battle. He often came over and sat with my father in the summer-house on

the hill, and there talked about politics, sociology (though under some

other name, probably), morals, and human nature, with an occasional

lecture on grape-culture. He permitted my sister and me to climb the

fence and eat all the grapes we could hold; it seems to me he could

hardly have realized our capacity. During our second summer he built a

most elaborate fence along the road-front of his estate; it must have

been three hundred yards long and it was as high as a man could reach;

the palings, instead of being upright, were criss-crossed over one

another, leaving small diamond-shaped interstices. The whole was painted

brilliant white, to match the liliputian cottage in which the Bull

family contrived (I know not how) to ensconce itself. When the fence was

built, Mr. Bull would every day come forth and pace slowly up and down

the road, contemplating it with the pride of a parent; indeed, it was no

puny achievement, and when I revisited Concord, thirty years later,

the great white fence was still there, with a few gaps in it, but still

effective. But the builder, and the grapes--where were they? Where are

Cheops, and the hanging gardens of Babylon?

Among many visitors came Richard Henry Stoddard, already a poet, but

anxious to supplement the income from his verses by a regular stipend

from the big pocket of Uncle Sam. His first coming was in summer, and

he and my father went up on the hill and sat in the summer-house there,

looking out upon the wide prospect of green meadows and distant woods,

but probably seeing nothing of them, their attention being withdrawn to

scenes yet fairer in the land of imagination and memory. Stoddard was

then, as always, a handsome man, strong and stanch, black-haired and

black-bearded, with strong eyes that could look both fierce and tender.

He was masculine, sensitive, frank, and humorous; his chuckle had

infinite merriment in it; but, as his mood shifted, there might be

tears in his eyes the next moment. He was at that time little more

than five-and-twenty years old, and he looked hardly that; he was a New

England country youth of genius. Nature had kindled a fire in him which

has never gone out. Like my father, he was affiliated with the sea, and

had its freshness and daring, though combined with great modesty, and he

felt honored by the affection with which he inspired the author of The

Scarlet Letter. It was not until his second visit, in the winter,

that the subject of a custom-house appointment for him came up; for my

father, being known as a close friend of the President, whose biography

he had written for the campaign, became the object of pilgrimages other

than literary ones. He received sound advice, and introductions, which

aided him in getting the appointment, and he held it for nearly twenty

years--more to the benefit of the custom-house than of poetry, no

doubt, though he never let poetry escape him, and he is to-day a mine

of knowledge and wisdom on literary subjects. There is an immense human

ardor, power, and pathos in Stoddard; better than any other American

poet does he realize the conception of his great English brother--the

love of love, the hate of hate, the scorn of scorn. The world has proved

impotent to corrupt his heroic simplicity; he loved fame much, but truth

more. He is a boy in his heart still, and he has sung songs which touch

whatever is sweetest, tenderest, and manliest in the soul of man.

[IMAGE: EDWIN P. WHIFFLE]

E. P. Whipple, essentially a man of letters, and famous in his day as a

critic of literature, appeared often in "The Wayside." His verdict on a

book carried weight; it was an era when literary criticism was regarded

seriously, and volumes devoted to critical studies had something more

than, a perfunctory vogue. He had written penetrating and cordial things

about my father's books, and foretold the high place which he would

ultimately occupy in our Pantheon. He was rich in the kind of Attic salt

which, was characteristic of Boston in the middle century; the product

of an almost excessive culture erected on sound, native brains. He had

abounding wit; not only wit of the sort that begets mirth, but that

larger and graver wit which Macaulay notices in Bacon's writings--a

pure, irradiating, intellectual light. It had often the effect of an

actual physical illumination cast upon the topic. He was magnificent as

a dinner-table companion. He was rather a short, thick-shouldered man,

with a big head on a short neck, a broad, projecting forehead, prominent

eyes, defended by shiny spectacles, and bushy whiskers. He is not

remembered now, probably because he never produced any organic work

commensurate with his huge talent. Analyses of the work of others,

however just, useful, and creative, do not endure unless they are

associated with writing of the independent sort. Whipple, with all his

ability and insight, never entered the imaginative field on his own

account, and in the press of wits he falls behind and is forgotten.

My father had come to Concord with the idea of a new romance in his

mind; he designed it to be of a character more cheerful than the

foregoing ones. It was never written, and but the slightest traces of

what it might have been are extant. Herman Melville had spent a day

with us at Concord, and he had suggested a story to Hawthorne; but the

latter, after turning it over in his mind, came to the conclusion that

Melville could treat the subject better than he could; but Melville

finally relinquished it also. It seems likely, however, that this

projected tale was not the one which Hawthorne had originally been

meditating. At all events, it was postponed in favor of a new book of

wonder-stories from Greek mythology--the first one having had immediate

popularity, and by the time this was finished, the occasion had arrived

which led to the writing of Pierce's biography. This, in turn, was

followed by the offer by the President to his friend of the Liverpool

consulate, then the most lucrative appointment in the gift of the

administration; and Hawthorne's acceptance of it caused all literary

projects to be indefinitely abandoned.

But even had there been time for the writing of another book, the death

of Hawthorne's sister Louisa would doubtless have unfitted him for a

while from undertaking it. This was the most painful episode connected

with his life; Louisa was a passenger on a Hudson River steamboat which

was burned. She was a gentle, rather fragile woman, with a playful humor

and a lovable nature; she had not the intellectual force either of her

brother or of her sister Elizabeth; but her social inclinations were

stronger than theirs. She was a delightful person to have in the house,

and her nephew and niece were ardently in love with her. She was on her

way to "The Wayside" when the calamity occurred, and we were actually

expecting her on the day she perished. Standing on the blazing deck,

with the panic and the death-scenes around her, the gentle woman had to

make the terrible choice between the river and the fire. She was alone;

there was none to advise or help her or be her companion in inevitable

death. Her thoughts must have gone to her brother, with his strength and

courage, his skill as a swimmer; but he was far away, unconscious of her

desperate extremity. She had to choose, and the river was her choice.

With that tragic conception of the drowning of Zenobia fresh in his

mind, the realization of his sister's fate must have gained additional

poignancy in my father's imagination. He was hard hit, and the traces of

the blow were manifest on him. After about a month, he made a journey to

the Isles of Shoals with Franklin Pierce, and in that breezy outpost

of the land he spent some weeks, much to his advantage. This was in the

autumn of 1852, and I recall well enough the gap in things which his

long absence made for me, and my perfect joy when the whistle of the

train at the distant railway station signalled his return. Twenty

minutes had to elapse before the railroad carriage could bring him

to our door; they were long and they were brief, after the manner

of minutes in such circumstances. He came, and there was a moment of

indescribable glory while he leaped from the carriage and faced the

situation on the doorstep of his home. His countenance was glowing with

health and the happiness of home-coming. I thought him, as I always did,

the most beautiful of human beings, by which I do not mean beautiful

in feature, for of that I was not competent to hold an opinion; but

beautiful in the feelings which he aroused in me beholding him. He was

beautiful to be with, to hear, touch, and experience. Such is the effect

of the spiritual sphere of good men, in whom nature and character

are harmonious. My father got his appointment from Washington in the

following March, 1853. His wife had but one solicitude in leaving

America; her mother was aged and in delicate health, and their parting

might be forever in this world. But a month before the appointment was

confirmed, her mother quietly and painlessly died. It was as if she had

wished not to be separated from her beloved daughter, and had entered

into the spiritual state in the expectation of being nearer to her there

than she could be in the world. My mother always affirmed that she

was conscious of her mother's presence with her on momentous occasions

during the remainder of her own life.

June came; the farewells were said, we were railroaded to Boston,

embarked on the Cunard steamship Niagara, Captain Leitch, and steamed

out of Boston Harbor on a day of cloudlessness and calm. Incoming

vessels, drifting in the smoothness, saluted us with their flags, and

the idle seamen stared at us, leaning over their bulwarks. The last

of the low headlands grew dim and vanished in the golden haze of the

afternoon. "Go away, tiresome old land!" sang out my sister and myself;

but my father, standing beside us, gazing westward with a serious look,

bade us be silent. Two hundred and twenty years had passed since our

first ancestor had sought freedom on those disappearing shores, and our

father was the first of his descendants to visit the Old Home whence he

came. What was to be the outcome? But the children only felt that the

ocean was pleasant and strange, and they longed to explore it. The

future and the past did not concern them.

V

A paddle-wheel ocean-liner--The hens, the cow, and the

carpenter--W. D. Ticknor--Our first Englishman--An

aristocratic acrobat--Speech that beggars eulogy--The boots

of great travellers--Complimentary cannon--The last

infirmity of noble republican minds--The golden promise: the

spiritual fulfilment--Fatuous serenity--Past and future--The

coquetry of chalk cliffs--Two kinds of imagination--The

thirsty island--Gloomy English comforts--Systematic

geniality--A standing puzzle--The respirator--Scamps, fools,

mendicants, and desperadoes--The wrongs of sailor-men--"Is

this myself?"--"Profoundly akin"--Henry Bright--Charm of

insular prejudice--No stooping to compromise--The battle

against dinner--"I'm glad you liked it!"--An English-,

Irish-, and Scotchman--An Englishman owns his country--A

contradiction in Englishmen--A hospitable gateway--Years of

memorable trifles.

The steamship Niagara was, in 1853, a favorable specimen of nautical

architecture; the Cunard Company had then been in existence rather less

than a score of years, and had already established its reputation for

safety and convenience. But, with the exception of the red smoke-stack

with the black ring round the top, there was little similarity between

the boat that took us to England and the mammoths that do that service

for travellers now adays. The Niagara was about two hundred and fifty

feet long, and was propelled by paddle-wheels, upon the summits of

whose curving altitudes we were permitted to climb in calm weather.

The interior decorations were neat and pretty, but had nothing of the

palatial and aesthetic gorgeousness which educates us in these later

ages. The company of passengers was so small that a single cow, housed

in a pen on deck, sufficed for their needs in the way of milk, and there

were still left alive and pecking contentedly about their coop a number

of fowls, after we had eaten all we could of their brethren at the ten

dinners that were served during the voyage. The crew, from the captain

down, were all able seamen, friendly and companionable, and not so

numerous but that it was easy to make their individual acquaintance. The

most engaging friend of the small people was the carpenter, who had his

shop on deck, and from whom I acquired that passion for the profession

which every normal boy ought to have, and from the practice of which I

derived deep enjoyment and many bloody thumbs and fingers for ten years

afterwards.

But we had companionship historically at least more edifying. William

D. Ticknor, the senior partner of my father's publishers, was the only

figure familiar at the outset. He was one of the most amiable of men,

with thick whiskers all round his face and spectacles shining over

his kindly eyes; a sturdy, thick-set personage, active in movement and

genial in conversation. It was James T. Fields who usually made the

trips to England; but on this occasion Fields got no farther than

the wharf, where the last object visible was his comely and smiling

countenance as he waved his adieux. Conspicuous among the group on the

after-deck, as we glided out of the smooth harbor of Boston, was an

urbane and dignified gentleman of perhaps sixty years of age, with a

clean-shaven mouth and chin, finely moulded, and with what Tennyson

would call an educated whisker, short and gray, defining the region

in front of and below his ears. He spoke deliberately, and in language

carefully and yet easily chosen, with intonations singularly distinct

and agreeable, giving its full value to every word. This was our first

native Englishman; no less a personage than Mr. Crampton, in fact, the

British Minister, who was on his way to Halifax. He had fine, calm,

quietly observant eyes, which were pleasantly employed in contemplating

the beauty of that summer seascape--an opalescent ocean, and islands

slumbering in the July haze. Near him stood a light-built, tall,

athletic individual, also obviously English, but thirty years younger;

full, also, of artistic appreciation; this was Field Talfourd, who was

an artist, and many things besides; a man proficient in all forms

of culture. His features were high and refined, and, without being

handsome, irresistibly attractive. He turned out to be a delightful

playmate for the children, and astonished them and the rest of the

company by surprising gymnastic feats in the rigging. The speech of

these two Britishers gave the untravelled American a new appreciation of

the beauty and significance of the English language. Not all Englishmen

speak good English, but when they do, they beggar eulogy.

[IMAGE: JAMES T. FIELDS, NATHANIEL HAWTHORNE, AND WILLIAM D. TICKNOR]

George Silsbee was likewise of our party; he was an American of the

Brahman type, a child of Cambridge and Boston, a man of means, and an

indefatigable traveller. He had the delicate health and physique of the

American student of those days, when out-door life and games made no

part of our scholastic curricula. He may have been forty years old,

slight and frail, with a thin, clean-shaven face and pallid complexion,

but full of mind and sensibility. We do not heed travellers now, and I

am inclined to think they are less worth heeding than they used to be.

It is so easy to see the world in these latter days that few persons see

it to any purpose even when they go through the motions of doing so. But

to hear George Bradford or Silsbee talk of England, France, and Italy,

in the fifties, was a liberal education, and I used sometimes to stare

fascinated at the boots of these wayfarers, admiring them for the

wondrous places in which they had trodden. Silsbee travelled with his

artistic and historic consciousness all on board, and had so much to say

that he never was able to say it all.

But to my father himself were accorded the honors of the captain's

table, and for him were fired the salutes of cannon which thundered us

out of Boston Harbor and into Halifax. These compliments, however, were

paid to him not as a man of letters, but as a political representative

of his country, and, let a man be as renowned as he will on his personal

account, he will still find it convenient, in order to secure smooth and

agreeable conditions on his way through the world, to supplement that

distinction with recommendations from the State Department. Respect for

rank is the last infirmity even of noble republican minds, and it oils

the wheels of the progress of those who possess it. An American widow

of my later acquaintance, a lady of two marriageable daughters and small

social pretensions in her own country, toured Europe with success

and distinction, getting all the best accommodations and profoundest

obeisances by the simple device of placing the word "Lady" before her

modest signature in the hotel registers. She was a lady, of course, and

had a right so to style herself, and if snobbish persons chose to read

into the word more than it literally meant, that was not Mrs. Green's

affair.

American commerce still existed in 1853, and the Liverpool consulate was

supposed to have more money in it than any other office in the gift

of the administration. As a matter of fact, several of my father's

predecessors had retired from their tenure of office with something

handsome (pecuniarily speaking) to their credit; whether the means by

which it had been acquired were as handsome is another question. Be

that as it may, Congress, soon after my father's accession, passed a

law cutting down the profits about three-fourths, and he was obliged to

practise the strictest economy during his residence abroad in order to

come home with a few thousand dollars in his pocket. Nevertheless, the

dignity, in the official sense, of this consular post was considerable,

and it brought him, in combination with his literary fame, a good deal

more attention in England than he well knew what to do with. But, in one

way or another, he also made friends there who remained to the end among

the dearest of his life and more than countervailed all the time and

energy wasted on the Philistines.

The Atlantic, all the way across, with the exception of one brief

emotional disturbance between lunch and dinner-time, wore a smile of

fatuous serenity. The sun shone; the vast pond-surface oilily undulated,

or lay in absolute flatness, or at most defiled under our eyes in

endless squadrons of low-riding crests. My mother, whose last experience

of sea-ways had been the voyage to Cuba, in which the ship was all but

lost in a series of hurricanes, was captivated by this soft behavior,

and enjoyed the whole of it as much, almost, as her husband, who

expanded and drank in delight like a plant in the rain. But, in truth,

these must have been blessed hours for them both. Behind them lay nearly

eleven years of married life, spent in narrow outward circumstances,

lightened only towards the last by the promise of some relaxation from

strain, during which they had found their happiness in each other, and

in the wise and tender care of their children, and in the converse of

chosen friends. They had filled their minds with knowledge concerning

the beauties and interests of foreign lands, with but a slender

expectation of ever beholding them with bodily sight, but none the less

well prepared to understand and appreciate them should the opportunity

arrive. And now, suddenly, it had arrived, and they were on the way to

the regions of their dreams, with the prospect of comparative affluence

added. They had nearly twelve years of earthly sojourn together before

them, the afternoon sunshine to be clouded a little near the close by

the husband's failing health, but glorified more and more by mutual

love, and enriched with memories of all that had before been unfulfilled

imaginings. This voyage eastward was the space of contemplation between

the two periods, and the balm of its tranquillity well symbolized the

peace of soul and mind with which they awaited what the horizons were to

disclose.

The right way to approach England for the first time is not by the

west coast, but by the south, as Julius Caesar did, beckoned on by the

ghostly, pallid cliffs that seem to lift themselves like battlements

against the invader. It is historically open to question whether there

would have been any Roman occupation, or any Saxon or Norman one

either, for that matter, but for the coquetry of those chalk cliffs.

An adventurer, sighting the low and marshy shores of Lancashire, and

muddying his prows in the yellow waters of the Mersey, would be apt

to think that such a land were a good place to avoid. But the race of

adventurers has long since died out, and their place is occupied by the

wide-flying cormorants of commerce, to whom mud flats and rock deserts

present elysian beauties, provided only there be profit in them.

One kind of imagination has been superseded by another, and both are

necessary to the full exploitation of this remarkable globe that we

inhabit.

But even the level capes of Lancashire were alluring to eyes that saw

England, our venerable mother, loom behind them, with her thousand

years' pageantry of warfare and civilization. The egregious little

island is a thirsty place; the land drinks rain as assiduously as do its

inhabitants beer and other liquors. Heavy mists and clouds enveloped it

as we drew near, and ushered us up the Mersey into a brown omnipresence

of rain. The broad, clear sunshine of the Atlantic was left behind, and

we stood on wet decks and were transported to sloppy wharfs by means

of a rain-sodden and abominably smoking little tug-boat--as the way

was fifty years ago. Liverpool was a gray-stone labyrinth open to the

deluge, and its inhabitants went to and fro with umbrellas over their

heads and black respirators over their mouths, looking as if such were

their normal plight--as, indeed, it was. Much of this was not needed to

quench the enthusiasm of the children. The Waterloo Hotel, to which, by

advice of friends, we were driven, seemed by its very name to carry out

the idea of saturation, which the activities of nature so insistently

conveyed. It was intensely discomfortable, and though the inside of the

hotel was well supplied with gloomy English comforts, and the solemn

meals were administered with a ceremonious gravity that suggested their

being preliminaries to funerals, yet it was hard to be light-hearted.

The open-grate coal fires were the most welcome feature of this summer

season, and no doubt the wine list offered the best available substitute

for sunlight; but we had not been trained to avail ourselves of it.

We drank water, which certainly appeared an idle proceeding in such a

climate. In Liverpool, however, or in its suburbs, we were to live for

the better part of four years, and we must make the best of it. And

there is in English people, when rightly approached, a steady and

systematic geniality that not only makes handsome amends for their

weather, but also accounts for the otherwise singular fact that the

country is inhabited at all. A people with a smaller fund of interior

warmth could not have endured it. The French talk about conquering

England, but they could not hold it if they did, and it is one of the

standing puzzles of history how the Romans, an Italian race, were able

to maintain themselves under these skies during four centuries. It may

be objected that the present English population is not indigenous to the

island; but they are the survival of the fittest and toughest selected

from many aspirants. Nor can it be doubted that the British hunger for

empire in all parts of the world is due to nothing so much as to their

anxiety to have a plausible pretext for living elsewhere than at home.

My father took the rain, as he took everything that could not be helped,

philosophically, and it seemed to do him no harm; indeed, his health

was uniformly good all through his English residence. It did not suit so

well my mother, who was constitutionally delicate in the lungs; she was

soon obliged to adopt the English respirator, and finally was driven

to take refuge for the greater part of a year in Lisbon and Madeira,

returning only a little before the departure of the family for Italy in

1858. But there must have been in him an ancestral power of resistance

still effective after more than two centuries of transplantation; he

grew ruddy and robust while facing the mist and mirk, and inhaling the

smoky moisture that did service for air. Nor was his health impaired by

the long hours in the daily consulate--a grimy little room barely five

paces from end to end, with its dusty windows so hemmed in by taller

buildings that even had there been any sunshine to make the attempt, it

could never have succeeded in effecting an entrance through them. Here,

from ten in the morning until four in the afternoon, he dealt with all

varieties of scamps and mendicants, fools and desperadoes, and all the

tribe of piratical cutthroats which in those days constituted a large

part of the merchant marine. Calamity, imbecility, and rascality were

his constant companions in that dingy little den; and the gloomy and

sooty skies without but faintly pictured the moral atmosphere which

they exhaled; he entered deeply into all their affairs, projects, and

complaints, feeling their troubles, probably, at least as keenly as

they did themselves, and yet he came out of it all with clear eyes and a

sound digestion. I presume the fact may have been that he unconsciously

regarded the whole affair somewhat as we do a drama in a theatre; it

works upon our sensibilities, and yet we do not believe that it is real.

There was nothing in the experience germane to his proper life; it could

not become a part of him, and therefore its posture towards him

remained inveterately objective. The only feature of it that quickened a

responsive chord in him was the revelation of the intolerable condition

of the sailors in many of our ships, and upon these abuses he enlarged

in his communications to Washington. Improvements were made in

consequence of his remonstrances; but the American merchant service had

already begun its downward career, and it is only very lately, owing to

causes which are too novel and peculiar to be intelligently discussed

as yet, that our flag is once more promising to compete against that of

England.

It would be misleading to say, however, that my father was not

interested in his consulate work; there was a practical side in him

which took hold of the business in man-fashion, and transacted it so

efficiently as to leave no room for criticism, and nobody can produce

voluntary effects without feeling in himself a reaction from them. He had

occasion to look into the privacy of many human hearts, to pity them and

advise them, and from such services and insights he no doubt obtained a

residue of wisdom which might be applied to his own ulterior uses.

These were indirect and incidental issues; but from the consulate qua

consulate Hawthorne was radically alien, and when he quitted it, he

carried away with him no taint or trace of it. As he says in his remarks

upon the subject, he soon came to doubt whether it were actually himself

who had been the incumbent of the office at all.

But Providence does not deny manna to man in his extremity, and to my

father it came in the shape of a few English friends, and in occasional

escapes from the office into the outside England where, after the

centuries of separation, he found so much with which he could still feel

profoundly akin. His most constant friendly visitor was Henry A. Bright,

a university man, the son of a wealthy local merchant, who sent ships

to Australia, and was related (as most agreeable Englishmen are--though

there are shining exceptions) to the aristocratic class. Bright, at this

time, could not have been over thirty years of age; he was intensely

English, though his slender figure and mental vivacity might make him

seem near to the conventional American type. But through him, as through

an open window, Hawthorne was enabled to see far into the very heart of

England. Bright not merely knew England; he was England, and England at

its best, and therefore also at its most insular and prejudiced. It

was unspeakably satisfying and agreeable to encounter a man at once so

uncompromising and so amiable, so wrong-headed (from the American point

of view) and so right-hearted. He was drawn to my father as iron is

drawn to the magnet; on every outward point they fought each other like

the knight errants of old, while agreeing inwardly, beneath the surface

of things, as few friends are able to agree. Each admired the other's

onslaughts and his prowess, and, by way of testifying his admiration,

strove to excel himself in his counter attacks. The debate was always

beginning, and in the nature of things it could never end; the effect

of their blows was only to hammer each the other more firmly into his

previous convictions. Probably all the things that are English and all

the things that are American never before or since received such full

and trenchant exposition as was given them by Hawthorne and by Bright.

The whole subject of monarchy and aristocracy as against republicanism

and democracy was threshed out to the last kernel by champions each of

whom was thoroughly qualified to vindicate his cause. Each, constrained

by the stress of battle to analyze and expound his beliefs more

punctually than ever before, thereby convinced himself while leaving his

adversary undaunted; and, of course, both were right. For this world is

so constituted that two things incompatible in outward manifestation may

in their roots be one and the same, and equally appeal to the suffrages

of honest men. England and America are healthy and vigorous in

proportion as they differ from each other, and a morbid and vicious

tendency in either is noticeable the moment either begins to take a

leaf from the other's book. My father and Bright could not have been the

lifelong friends that they were had either of them yielded his point or

stooped to compromise.

Apart from political matters, and such social themes as were nearly

allied to them, the two friends had many points of agreement and

sympathy. Bright had from the first been an ardent and intelligent

admirer of the romancer's writings, and though they might often differ

in their estimates of individual works, they were in hearty accord as

to the principles which underlie all literature and art. Upon matters

relating to society, my father was more apt to accept theories which

Bright might propound than to permit of their being illustrated in his

own person; he would admit, for example, that a consul ought to mingle

socially with the people to whom he was accredited; but when it came

to getting him out to dinner, in evening dress and with a speech in

prospect, obstacles started up like the armed progeny of the Dragon's

Teeth. For, though no one enjoyed real society more than he did, he was

ardently averse from conversing as an official with persons between whom

and himself as a man there could be little sympathy. Almost as much,

too, did he dislike to meet the polite world merely on the basis of the

books that he had written, which his entertainers were bound to

praise whether or not they had read or comprehended them, and to whose

well-meant but inexpert eulogies he must constantly respond with the

threadbare and pathetic phrase, "I'm glad you liked it." Bright, of

course, insisted that fame and position carried obligations which must

be met, and he was constantly laying plots to inveigle or surprise

his friend into compliance. He often succeeded, but he failed quite as

frequently, so that, as a Mrs. Malaprop might have said, Hawthorne as

a social lion was a rara avis, from first to last. The foible of

artificial, as distinguished from spontaneous, society is that it so

seldom achieves simple human relations.

Another chief friend of his was Francis Bennoch. England would never

have seemed "our old home" to my father, without the presence and

companionship of these two men. Both had literary leanings, both were

genial, true, and faithful; but in other respects they were widely

dissimilar. Bright was of the pure Saxon type; Bennoch represented Great

Britain at large; there were mingled in him English, Irish, and

Scotch ancestry. In himself he was a superb specimen of a human being;

broad-shouldered, straight, and vigorous, massive but active, with a

mellow, joyful voice, an inimitable brogue, sparkling black eyes full

of hearty sunshine and kindness, a broad and high forehead over bushy

brows, and black, wavy hair. He bubbled over with high spirits, humor,

and poetry, being, indeed, a poet in achievement, with a printed

and bound volume to show for it--songs, lyrics, and narrative poems,

composed in the spirit of Burns and Scott. He was at this time one

of the handsomest men in England, with a great heart, warmer than any

summer England ever knew, and a soul of ardor and courage, which sent

through his face continual flashes of sympathy and fellowship. One

naturally thought and spoke of him in superlatives; he was the kindest,

jolliest, most hospitable, most generous and chivalrous of men, and

his affection and admiration for my father were also of the superlative

kind. He had made a fortune in the wool business, and had an office

in Wood Street, London; but his affairs permitted him to make frequent

excursions to Liverpool, and to act as his American friend's guide

and cicerone to many places in England which would otherwise have been

unknown to him. My father enjoyed these trips immensely; Bennoch's

companionship gave the right keynote and atmosphere to the sights they

saw. A real Englishman owns his country, and does the honors of it to a

visitor as if it were his private estate. Discussions of politics and of

the principles of government never arose between these two, as they did

between my father and Bright; for Bennoch, though one of the most loyal

and enthusiastic of her Majesty's subjects, and full of traditional

respect for the British nobility, was by nature broadly democratic,

and met every man as an equal and a brother. One often finds this

contradiction in Englishmen; but it is such logically only. A man

born to the traditions of monarchy and aristocracy accepts them as the

natural background of his ideas, just as the English landscape is the

setting of his house and park; he will vindicate them if assailed; but

ordinarily they do not consciously affect his mental activities, and he

will talk good republicanism without being aware of it. The monarchy is

a decoration, a sentiment, a habit; as a matter of fact, England is more

democratic in many essentials than we have as yet learned how to

be. Bennoch was not a university man, and lacked the historical

consciousness that Bright so assiduously cultivated; he lived by feeling

and intuition more than by deliberate intellectual judgments. He was

emotional; tears would start to his eyes at a touch of pathos or pity,

as readily as the laughter of a moment before. So lovable, gallant,

honest, boyish a man is seldom born into this modern world-boyish as

only the manliest men can be. He died thirty years after the time I

write of, the same fresh and ardent character as ever, and loving and

serving Hawthorne's children for Hawthorne's sake. I shall have occasion

to mention him hereafter; but I have dwelt upon him here, both because

he made it forever impossible for any one who knew him well to do other

than love the land which could breed such a man, and because, for the

American Hawthorne, he was as a hospitable gate-way through which the

England of his dreams and imaginings was entered upon as a concrete and

delightful reality.

With Bright and Bennoch on his right hand and on his left, then, my

father began his English experience. The two are frequently mentioned

in his English journals, and Bennoch figures as one of the subordinate

characters in the posthumous romance called Doctor Grimshawe's Secret.

It is but a sketch of him, however, and considerably modified from the

brilliant and energetic reality. Meanwhile the consul began to accustom

himself to the routine of the consulate, and his family, leaving the

sombre respectability of the Waterloo Hotel, moved, first, to the

hospitable boarding-house of Mrs. Blodgett, and afterwards to a private

dwelling in Rock Park, Rock Ferry, on the opposite side of the Mersey,

where we were destined to dwell for several years. They were years full

of events very trifling in themselves, but so utterly different from

everything American as to stamp themselves upon the attention and the

memory. It is the trifling things that tell, and give character to

nations; extraordinary things may occur anywhere, and possess little

national flavor. In another chapter I will attempt some portrayal of

this English life of fifty years since.

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