It is to be observed, that all Fruits that are ripe require little baking,
and those which are of the hardest, or most unripe Sorts, ought to have a
long and gentle baking. In Pears, for example, when we have some of those,
which ripen in the Autumn, they will bake with a Tart; for as they are ripe
of themselves, they require very little baking, for Ripeness is one degree
tending to Rottenness; and as that is done by heat gently, so the Oven
brings that to a certain height, suddenly, with its safeguard of Sugar;
that the Fruit comes to its full flavour, with the additional beauty, from
the Sugar. It would have done a great deal by Nature itself, if the Tree
had stood in a place agreeable; but much more would it be for those baking
Pears, as we call them, if they had the advantage of a good Climate; one
may guess then how much difference there is between one and the other. In
the tough and hard Pears, one ought to bake them twice, that is, once with
a little Water and Sugar, in as hot an Oven as they bake Bread in; and then
put them in Pyes, and bake them over again, so will they become tender,
well tasted, and of a fine colour. But be it as it will, as soon as either
of these come out of the Oven, pour some Cream over them, and mix it with
them, if they are to be served hot, mashing the Fruit all the while; but if
they are to be served cold, then only pour some Cream over them, when they
just come from the Oven, and let it remain till you serve it cold.
There is one way which is practised by some, and that is, to break the hard
Pears, just when they are taken out of the Oven, in the Pye; for else the
outsides, though the Rind is off, will be hard, and tough: then pour on the
Cream. It is to be noted, that all ripe Apples require less baking, and
less Sugar, than the hard Apples, which do not become ripe till some Months
afterwards. When an Apple, or Pear, for example, is as ripe as it can be in
our Climate, it will have some softness, and some sweetness in it, and
therefore will require less baking, as baking is only a sort of ripening;
and so on the other hand: but we are providentially provided with both
Apples and Pears, which are, some ripe sooner, and some ripe later; even
that by the end of _July,_ we have some ripe, and some remain hard and sour
till _June._ We ought be apprised of the Sorts, to take them in their
several Seasons, and not to take the Winter Fruits, for baking, when we
have ripe Fruits by us. Many thousand Bushels of Fruit are lost for want of
this Caution.
So at any time, when you use Apples, or Pears, for Tarts, Puddings, or
Sauces, let them be all of one Sort, and ripe; for, if they are ripe, or
towards it, they will soon soften; and if you put two Sorts together, one
will be in Pulp very soon, and the other will be hard for an Hour or two,
and at length will not be soft. _Memorandum,_ This is not to be
disregarded.