Sir,
There are some Counties in _England_, whose Customs are never to be set
aside; and our Friends in _Cumberland_, as well as some of our Neighbours
in _Lancashire_, and else-where, keep them up. It is a Custom with us every
_Christmas_-Day in the Morning, to have, what we call an Hackin, for the
Breakfast of the young Men who work about our House; and if this Dish is
not dressed by that time it is Day-light, the Maid is led through the Town,
between two Men, as fast as they can run with her, up Hill and down Hill,
which she accounts a great shame. But as for the Receipt to make this
Hackin, which is admired so much by us, it is as follows.
Take the Bag or Paunch of a Calf, and wash it, and clean it well with Water
and Salt; then take some Beef-Suet, and shred it small, and shred some
Apples, after they are pared and cored, very small. Then put in some Sugar,
and some Spice beaten small, a little Lemon-Peel cut very fine, and a
little Salt, and a good quantity of Grots, or whole Oat-meal, steep'd a
Night in Milk; then mix these all together, and add as many Currans pick'd
clean from the Stalks, and rubb'd in a coarse Cloth; but let them not be
wash'd. And when you have all ready, mix them together, and put them into
the Calf's-Bag, and tye them up, and boil them till they are enough. You
may, if you will, mix up with the whole, some Eggs beaten, which will help
to bind it. This is our Custom to have ready, at the opening of the Doors,
on _Christmas_-Day in the Morning. It is esteem'd here; but all that I can
say to you of it, is, that it eats somewhat like a _Christmas_-Pye, or is
somewhat like that boil'd. I had forgot to say, that with the rest of the
Ingredients, there should be some Lean of tender Beef minced small.